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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Jul 25, 2015 - 10:43am PT
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yep, and the trends will continue.
generation plastic.
kids at my gym can do 13s and v8 and many have never touched a real rock.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jul 25, 2015 - 10:48am PT
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Is it now true (presumably on weekends) that Lover's Leap has "hourlong lines below every good route" as the article says?
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Jul 25, 2015 - 11:20am PT
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downfall.... meaning more noobs at the crag than you and your friends like?
thats every sport, look at surfing, backcountry skiing....
just more people, wanting to do the same stuff you do.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jul 25, 2015 - 11:25am PT
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LOL!! Most folks at the gym like piss & Poop!! Because they go right into the bathroom with climbing shoes on, then right back to plastic hell. Never go to a gym.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Jul 25, 2015 - 11:33am PT
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So true Ron, Honnold started in a gym and now he often doesn't use a rope. Gyms are dangerous!
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Banks
Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Jul 25, 2015 - 11:48am PT
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wow.. They call a 14 yr old gym climber "possibly the greatest climber to ever live"... LAUGHABLE eh?
How far out of touch can an article be that labels a 14 yr old gym climber the "greatest climber to ever live"???????
Reading comprehension Rdog...
The article says "is a serious contender to become the greatest living climber of either sex".
The world is changing and old people don't like it. Its been that way forever and will continue to be that way forever. I thought the article did a nice job talking about the changing landscape of climbing.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jul 25, 2015 - 12:03pm PT
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The world is changing and old people don't like it. Its been that way forever and will continue to be that way forever.
This may be true, but true or not it is typically accompanied by the popular but fallacious conclusion that old people are wrong.
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Banks
Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Jul 25, 2015 - 12:20pm PT
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And on the flip side is the equally popular and fallacious conclusion that the younger generations are wrong.
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 25, 2015 - 01:45pm PT
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Ashima's hard ascents are not confined to the gym, she has cranked some hard 5.14 routes that few guys can do, in the Red River Gorge.
The "greatest climber of either sex" is hard to define. Could any of them repeat Charlie Porter's solo in Baffin where he crawls out on this hand and knees? How about repeating Lynn Hill's ascent of the Nose doing all the moves free?
The writer's perspective is interesting, and his basic premise is sound, that young kids start out in the gym, and can get proficient at hard moves more quickly, as compared to 40-50 years ago.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Jul 25, 2015 - 01:56pm PT
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Hope its not a fad thing. Its funny how trends go. The Witherspoon movie in the wild.....and the book, caused lots of folks to head up the PCT this year. Lots! Almost, maybe more than the 70's backpacking popularity. I was in REI in Berkley recently on a Saturday and the store looked like an ant farm! People pawing over all the equip. Climber types asking lots of questions and the buying line was long. Long live Climbing!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Jul 25, 2015 - 02:52pm PT
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The article was well written and presents an accurate perspective on the changing nature of the sport and how people are training for and being introduced to the sport.
Yes, things were different when I learned to climb, but I would have been happy if there were gyms and specialized training back then.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 25, 2015 - 06:03pm PT
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Yes, things were different when I learned to climb, but I would have been happy if there were gyms and specialized training back then.
Callin' bullshit on that Randy! You were waayyyyy to much of a low-key, keep to youself and your crew kinda guy. In, say, 1979 you'd a taken a flame thrower to gyms.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jul 25, 2015 - 06:08pm PT
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If not for gyms I wouldn't have discovered climbing when I did. I can't say I'm upset about that.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jul 25, 2015 - 07:30pm PT
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Good, pretty balanced article.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 25, 2015 - 08:11pm PT
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Nice to see someone in the media understanding climbing. Thanks for posting that Kevin.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Jul 25, 2015 - 09:07pm PT
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I don't think some of the (ahem) "older" folks on here realize that almost all of the young hotshots started in (and continue to) climb in gyms.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jul 25, 2015 - 10:15pm PT
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The kids are gonna take climbing to where they want it to go, regardless of the grumblings of oldtimers. Sit back and watch the show and be amazed. This ain't daddy's sport no more.
Study the fascinating history of rock climbing . . . It's there that you can remain an authority. But don't expect your pearls of wisdom to be savored by the young'uns.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jul 25, 2015 - 10:19pm PT
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Word.
Thanks jogill.
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