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Messages 1 - 32 of total 32 in this topic |
HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jul 14, 2015 - 10:06am PT
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Great Beckey account of a major peak. Thanks for posting that.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jul 14, 2015 - 10:18am PT
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We don't need no stinkin' high tech gear! Ve yust clim' it.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Jul 14, 2015 - 03:04pm PT
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Thanks Clint. Great pic and link.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Jul 14, 2015 - 04:00pm PT
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The 2nd Ascent 1975
American Alpine Journal 1976
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Jul 14, 2015 - 11:22pm PT
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The 3rd Ascent: 1976
American Alpine Journal 1977
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Jul 14, 2015 - 11:34pm PT
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The 4th Ascent: 1977
American Alpine Journal 1978
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jul 15, 2015 - 06:57am PT
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Can't wait for the East Ridge stories.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Jul 15, 2015 - 11:32pm PT
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The 5th Ascent: 1977
American Alpine Journal 1978
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Jul 15, 2015 - 11:42pm PT
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The 6th Ascent: 1979
American Alpine Journal 1980
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Jul 16, 2015 - 03:28am PT
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The 7th Ascent: 1980
American Alpine Journal 1981
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Jul 16, 2015 - 03:33am PT
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The 8th Ascent: 1981
American Alpine Journal 1982
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Jul 16, 2015 - 03:46am PT
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The 9th Ascent: 1982
American Alpine Journal 1983
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Jul 17, 2015 - 12:00am PT
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The 10th Ascent: 1983
American Alpine Journal 1984
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Jul 17, 2015 - 05:35am PT
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The East Ridge... continued.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jul 17, 2015 - 05:46am PT
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Very, very deep!
Carl Tobin climbing the overhanging snow/ice was one of the great photos ever in Mountain. Thanks Avery for the Alaskan insight--who needs coffee with this as a morning read?
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Jul 17, 2015 - 06:45pm PT
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The 11th Ascent: 1987
American Alpine Journal 1988
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Jul 17, 2015 - 07:00pm PT
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The 12th Ascent: 1993
American Alpine Journal 1995
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Jul 17, 2015 - 07:23pm PT
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The 13th Ascent: 1995
American Alpine Journal 1996
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Jul 17, 2015 - 07:42pm PT
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The 14th Ascent: 1999
American Alpine Journal 2000
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clanger
Trad climber
UK
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Jul 21, 2015 - 02:55am PT
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Jul 21, 2015 - 03:26am PT
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Thanks clanger. I've been searching for a decent East Ridge pic taken from the south.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Jul 21, 2015 - 04:15am PT
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I don't know if it ever appeared in print - maybe in one of John Barry's books or maybe in the above article and I've missed it... but JB told me a sort of epilogue to the trip. Rob Collister and JB decided to walk (a long way) out and on reaching a road were picked up by a couple of guys in a big pickup, guns on a rifle rack at the back of the cab. JB - both John and Rob have accents of which the Queen would be proud despite John's claim to be Irish - says:
'So what have you chaps been doing?'
'We bin hunt'n' grizz. Whad about you?'
'Well, we've climbed Mt Deborah...'
'Jeez, how come you can do that when you sound like a couple of poofs?!'
Clanger? Is that you, Rog?
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Jul 21, 2015 - 06:06am PT
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I think it just might be, jaaan.
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clanger
Trad climber
UK
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Jul 21, 2015 - 06:45am PT
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I also remember that JB's motto was "Never let the truth stand in the way of a good story".
Aye Jan it is.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Jul 21, 2015 - 07:22am PT
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Yes, I remembered that as I was typing it but it's too good a tale not to tell! Thought it must be you.
Jon
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jul 21, 2015 - 07:34pm PT
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Roger--if memory serves you owned the entire world in the 90's-after Deborah didn't you take a walk down south to visit the pole?
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clanger
Trad climber
UK
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Jul 22, 2015 - 01:34am PT
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The world's a big playground.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Jul 22, 2015 - 03:04pm PT
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Brits Climb Mt. Deborah’s Northwest Face (15th Ascent)
By Dougald MacDonald
5/8/15 - British climbers Jon Griffith and Will Sim have made the first ascent of the northwest face of Mt. Deborah, a seldom-climbed, 12,339-foot peak in the Hayes Range, a group of mountains at the eastern end of the Alaska Range. The two climbed the right side of the steep face to gain the northwest ridge (Cady-Nash-Nolting-Watts, 1976), which they followed to the summit. They descended the ridge to a point where they could rappel north to return to their base camp on the upper Gillam Glacier.
Sim described the climb as “the hardest three days either of us have spent in the mountains, and the face was undoubtedly the most spooky and unnerving thing I’ve ever been on.”
Just getting started was epic: The two men chose their objective from Google Earth imagery and had never seen a photo of the face. They had to hitchhike to Fairbanks with 200 kilograms of gear, and then the helicopter they’d hired to access the mountains was broken, and they had to spend two days helping the pilot repair it. On their first night at base camp, a severe storm destroyed their tent and forced them to dig a snow cave where they spent the rest of their trip when they weren’t climbing. “The trip was a full-on adventure,” Sim said. The 2,000-meter route is called Bad to the Bone.
Deborah was first climbed in 1954 by Fred Beckey, Henry Meybohm, and Heinrich Harrer, during the extraordinary season in which Beckey also did the first ascent of Mt. Hunter and the northwest buttress of Denali’s north peak. The first ascent of Deborah followed the south ridge. This season, the New Hampshire team of Elliot Gaddy, Bayard Russell, and Michael Wejchert, winners of a Mugs Stump Award, flew in to Deborah for their second try at an unclimbed line on the south face. Their first attempt, in 2013, was defeated by temperatures of -40°F, and this season the stormy conditions did them in: “We had some terrible weather, left, and then it got good…bummer,” Russell said.
Sources: Jon Griffith, Bayard Russell
http://willsim.blogspot.co.nz/2015/05/the-nw-face-of-mount-deborah.html
The northwest face of Deborah. The 2,000-meter route climbed the right side of the pyramidal face, then followed the northwest ridge to the summit. Photo courtesy of Will Sim.
Thanks to Dougald MacDonald
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Jul 30, 2015 - 04:02am PT
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The 5th Ascent, 1977. Cont...
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