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| Messages 1 - 36 of total 36 in this topic |
Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 13, 2015 - 03:48am PT
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The 1976 Boardman/Tasker Route on the West Wall of Changabang
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Bad Climber
climber
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Jul 13, 2015 - 06:14am PT
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Hey, Avery:
Just read both accounts by the two recently. This climb was so badass, so visionary. I think of the ascent of Meru/Shark's Fin as the modern incarnation of this historic climb.
Sadly, like the wingsuit pilots we've been discussing on other threads, these were two dudes right at the limit. RIP, brothers.
Everyone should read Boardman's and Tasker's books!
BAd
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Jul 13, 2015 - 06:37am PT
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Awesome... I bet if there were wingsuits back then, both would have flown off!
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jul 13, 2015 - 08:11am PT
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Another two thumbs up for their books, both of them were outstanding writers.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 13, 2015 - 11:51am PT
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They trained for the cold by bivying in meat coolers in UK.
They traveled overland to the mountains.
Then they did that totally badass climb.
They each wrote a book about the experience; Tasker The Savage Arena and Boardman The Shining Mountain. Anyone interested in really wild times in high places should read these books. Better yet, The Boardman Tasker Omnibus includes two more of their books with a foreword by Chris Bonington.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 13, 2015 - 01:05pm PT
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I just got done with Savage Arena. Great read.
It reminded me of this quote from Repo Man:
"Ordinary people spend their life trying to avoid intense situations, Repo Men spend their life getting into intense situations."
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2015 - 02:21pm PT
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Dave Davis
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 13, 2015 - 07:07pm PT
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Have read Savage Arena a couple of times. Those guys were incredibly tough and Changabang was a massive undertaking for those times. Curiously, they both cut their teeth in the Alps rather than Yosemite, even though the climb seemed to be an ideal "big wall" under alpine conditions rather than your typical brutal Himalayan slog. They were using hammocks for crying out loud!
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2015 - 11:19pm PT
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Jul 13, 2015 - 11:54pm PT
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Tasker still missing on Everest. . . perhaps the most befitting of an avante guard alpinist.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2015 - 01:29am PT
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Jul 14, 2015 - 05:44am PT
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One of the best two man trips!
Ever.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2015 - 03:07pm PT
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Thanks DMT. An excellent article.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Jul 14, 2015 - 03:31pm PT
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A great climb. Fully ten years ahead of it's time. Those two books fueled my alpine passions and drove me from the Sierra to the Andes. Alas, I was not quite as much of a hardman as Boardman and Tasker, but I had some great times, inspired directly by this climb!
TY
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2015 - 03:58pm PT
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smith curry
climber
nashville,TN
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Jul 16, 2015 - 07:42am PT
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I loved reading all their books...Thanks for all these Alpinism threads Avery!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 16, 2015 - 07:51am PT
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What a team eh?
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2015 - 03:55pm PT
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2015 - 03:21pm PT
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Avery
climber
New Zealand
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2017 - 10:44pm PT
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Bump, for two legendary climbers and writers.
If anyone wants an old copy of the 'The Shining Mountain', just let me know.
I've got one to give away.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jan 10, 2017 - 06:03am PT
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Thanks for the bump! I'm going to rummage around looking for my copies of their books.
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Jan 10, 2017 - 06:59am PT
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Thanks Avery for your regular reminders of why I got into climbing as a kid. I've a well worn copy of Mountain in my collection. Always remember the b/w Changabang photos.
A point of pride from my past was when I discovered that the final section on Hunter's South Ridge had been dubbed "the Changabang like arete" by climbers years after our first ascent in 1973. I couldn't been happier and I am the Happy Cowboy.
Thanks Mark for use of your outstanding photo.
Avery, I would be interested in reading "shining mountain" if you're serious with the offer. Let me know for arrangements.
Best, Donnie Black
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Andy de klerk
Mountain climber
South Africa
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Jan 10, 2017 - 12:17pm PT
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Does anyone know if their route has been repeated?
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Avery
climber
New Zealand
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2017 - 01:28pm PT
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Hey Andy!
I'm pretty sure it's still waiting for a repeat.
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Avery
climber
New Zealand
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2017 - 01:29pm PT
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Hey Don
I've sent you a message
I hope you get it!
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Jan 10, 2017 - 03:24pm PT
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Avery, haven't seen anything yet, did check junk. My email is blackwerk7atgmail.com
Best Don
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Jan 10, 2017 - 04:47pm PT
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Thanks for the bump, Avery.
Good thread.
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Jan 11, 2017 - 12:20pm PT
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Avery, I'll try to add to your content as per Warbler's request. Black and white pics I remember of Freewheelin' (Ascent?) had a similar impact on a young climber, myself, as those of Tasker and Renshaw on Dunagiri. A world I burnt to experience. Never got to Garwhal but did climb your fine route.
This came from Mountain #55
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Jan 11, 2017 - 12:36pm PT
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I'm an ST newby an not that techy. Ran into Topo's 8 mb limit. next few pages of Boardman's commentary will be posted asap... I see a number of the same pics just the b/w version. HC
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Mike Honcho
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jan 11, 2017 - 12:53pm PT
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I think "Changabang" is just a neato name for a mountain.
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dhayan
climber
culver city, ca
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Jan 11, 2017 - 02:22pm PT
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I've got a copy of the boardman tasker omnibus i'd be happy to ship to someone who wants it if you pay shipping. Amazing and inspiring stories.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jan 11, 2017 - 07:48pm PT
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Avery- you should have been an editor. All your threads are on routes that were the sh#t---keep on rockin in the free world
murf
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Jan 11, 2017 - 08:30pm PT
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I've read Omnibus about 4 times...The book is in pieces thanks to the dry climate of the Sierra...Reading about their epics always put me in a stressed state of mind...I guess that means they were good at writing..?
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Jan 18, 2017 - 12:06am PT
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43-year-old Cibachrome print.
People in the foreground are Chris Bonington, Dougal Haston, Doug Scott and ? either Marten Boysen or Alan Hankinson with “Changabang” in background, 1974
Photo or surface just needs cleaning and when that gets done you will even get a better cleaner brighter finish. I just have to remember what to use to clean it with: Gasoline or rubbing Ajax on the surface, been a long time.
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Spiny Norman
Social climber
Boring, Oregon
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Jun 28, 2018 - 10:48pm PT
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Changabang bump
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jun 29, 2018 - 09:23am PT
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I thought one of the more interesting things reading both parties accounts of the climb was that they both felt they were the weak link and were letting the other person down. This drove them both to strive to live up to the other person and moved the collective effort to the success that they acheived.
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