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Messages 1 - 78 of total 78 in this topic
10b4me

Trad climber
California
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 11, 2006 - 01:50pm PT
Hi Jeff,
welcome aboard.
WBraun

climber
Oct 11, 2006 - 02:05pm PT
Holy shee...it! Jello is Jeff Lowe?

I had no idea, although from reading your posts you were connected to a lot of events from the past.

I offer all my respect unto you ........ Jeff.
burp

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Oct 11, 2006 - 02:11pm PT
Welcome ...

To an absolute northern Utah lengend! (Wish Greg and George were logged in too.)

burp
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 11, 2006 - 02:11pm PT
Cat's outa the bag Jeff; anonymity was good while it lasted eh Jello?

This is a fun place and we are glad you've joined us!
Cheers Bro,
Roy
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Oct 11, 2006 - 02:20pm PT
Yo' Jeff,
Welcome to this virtual campfire circle. Be careful though--if you ever talk about climbing stuff you'll be labeled a noob and blacklisted.
Mal
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Oct 11, 2006 - 02:31pm PT
Thanks, guys. I've been sitting in front of this damn computer for several months, now, trying with little success to get a book written. I started lurking on the Taco a while back as a way to escape my writer's block. Found myself laughing and learning a lot. Now that I've started to interact, I hope I don't get completely side-tracked!

What a bunch of great characters you are!

Dingus- what quotes?
malabarista

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Oct 11, 2006 - 02:42pm PT
Jeff, "Ice World" got me into the sport. Thanks for that!
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Oct 11, 2006 - 02:50pm PT
Who is Jeff Lowe?

Juan
G_Gnome

Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
Oct 11, 2006 - 02:54pm PT
Jeff, he is the other Jeff that can actually climb. Too bad the fishing sucks, huh?
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Oct 11, 2006 - 02:56pm PT
Jeff, he is the other Jeff that can actually climb. Too bad the fishing sucks, huh?

LOL G_Gnome


Welcome Jeff, only met you once but good to see you on the SuperTaco stand.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
St. Louis
Oct 11, 2006 - 03:11pm PT
Welcome Jeff!

Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Oct 11, 2006 - 03:35pm PT
Thanks, again, everyone. I was wondering who on ST I've ever shared a rope with. I know Mal, Roy, Largo, JB, but are there others here whose forum handles have hidden their identities from me?

Oh, and Chappy and the Warbler, of course! And Ron-O-Pitone!
Majid_S

Mountain climber
Bay Area
Oct 11, 2006 - 06:11pm PT
There was a noob who was asking tons of ice climbing question, this is not him is he ?
golsen

Social climber
kennewick, wa
Oct 11, 2006 - 06:25pm PT
Jeff, welcome.

I met you once at a slideshow some 20 years ago. In addition to some real hard man climbs you showed some sldes of bivvying on the N Face of Angels Landing on the FA. My partner and I had recently done it and I asked you about the sandbag rating of 5.7 A2. You laughed and called it a big pile of sand anyway. haha

On a more serious note, I dont think I have ever heard about your climb on the N Face of the Eiger, clearly one of the most impressive climbs ever. Did you ever write anything up on that?

regards,

Gary
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 11, 2006 - 06:28pm PT
So who IS this guy? Some nOOb? Some wannabe?

Let him come around Zion sometime and that ought to put him in his place.
no_one

Big Wall climber
Hurricane, Utah
Oct 11, 2006 - 08:10pm PT
Hey Jeff, nice to know your lurking around the Taco! I've never had the pleasure of climbing with you but I can say that I've fixed a line for the great Jeff Lowe! Thanks man!

Steve
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 11, 2006 - 08:16pm PT
Steve is far too modest.
He not only fixed a line, he also acted as a body double for a 15 year old girl.
TYeary

Mountain climber
Calif.
Oct 11, 2006 - 08:26pm PT
Hey Jeff,

Is that really you?
Thanks for the profile you sent me for the newsletter. How you doing? Glad to hear you're aboard. I look forward to jawing with you.
Tony
no_one

Big Wall climber
Hurricane, Utah
Oct 11, 2006 - 08:30pm PT
Hey Ron, your not supposed to tell people that! Especially my pears!
HA HA HA!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 11, 2006 - 09:03pm PT
I just got off the phone with Jello, and he said that buying those implants for Steve was some of the best money he's ever spent.
no_one

Big Wall climber
Hurricane, Utah
Oct 11, 2006 - 09:09pm PT
The important part is thet I played my roll well!
Aya

Uncategorizable climber
New York
Oct 11, 2006 - 09:11pm PT
Your pears?

Are those like melons?
no_one

Big Wall climber
Hurricane, Utah
Oct 11, 2006 - 09:16pm PT
Yep!
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
St. Louis
Oct 11, 2006 - 09:55pm PT
A photo is clearly needed!
Aya

Uncategorizable climber
New York
Oct 11, 2006 - 09:56pm PT
Wait, and is a roll like buns?

And to stay on topic - hi Jeff!
bob d'antonio

climber
boulder, co
Oct 11, 2006 - 10:00pm PT
Welcome Jeff...Bob D here. Hope all is well?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 11, 2006 - 10:48pm PT

Jeff & Nancy Twisting the Cap Off a Sheaf Stout,
After a Fun & Routine Excursion up the Naked Edge,
Eldorado Canyon, 1990:
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 11, 2006 - 10:53pm PT
Wow.
Somebody card that kid on the right.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 11, 2006 - 11:23pm PT

Sibley?
The Bastille?
'Couldn't be.
He's an upstanding citizen!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 11, 2006 - 11:30pm PT
I always thought Paul was out standing in his field.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 12, 2006 - 12:30am PT
...but Paul is mutually indiscreet.

Yah,
One time the local fuzz pulled us over out in front of his house and Paul was bereft of most of the required papers fer operatin' his vee-hickel.

Paul just schmoozed the cop, local sheriff type, intah comin' inside the house fer a cup of 'jo and proceeded to booble his way through a series of distractions until the nice peace officer got bored and bid us adieu...

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 12, 2006 - 01:18am PT
"exlaxed with a Super Topo infusion"

Hmmm.
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Oct 12, 2006 - 10:26am PT
tarbuster,
Are those creases in Sibley's pants? He must have had someone ironing for him.
Mal
graham

Social climber
Ventura, California
Oct 12, 2006 - 11:41am PT
Jeff, Welcome

Good to see you here.

Mike
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Oct 12, 2006 - 11:43am PT
Inredible! Seems like everyone and no_one is here. Lot of old friends I recognize, some I probably don't recognise and a few old friends I'm pretty sure I haven't met, yet.

10b, do I know thee?

Dingus and Mighty Hiker, two clear thinkers.

Fatrad- Good humored right-wing crazy. Glad you like the packs.

Werner, wish we had roped up back in the day so we could spout important mysticat nonsense at each other.

burp- we must be nieghbors, no?

G-gnome- best name in the Taco game.

Patrick- I think you're in Scotland, or maybe Ireland. Good beer in either case, but my fave is Guiness at the source.

TY- Yes, it is me.

Golsen- "And some castles made of sand...slips into the sea...eventually" -Jimi H

Bobd- sort of amazing we never corded each other in all the years.

Piton Ron- You'll get a piece o' me soon enough.

Warbler- We never did those bad things! Didn't we also do that little unprotected variation to Jules Verne, with Breashears? Called it Fools Burn. I've got a great photo of you on the NW corner, You look sort of like an elongated version of me, with your shoulder-length blond hair blowin' in the wind.

Tarbaby- You're the best, man. But that picture....I don't remember doing the Edge with Ms P. My decline seems to be more rapid than I'd hoped!

Mal- You've always been my hero. Thanks for the good climbs, too.

Aya, Crimpie and Stich- thanks for the welcome. Look forward to getting to know you on this cyber rock called Tacoville.

Thanks, Ghoul- I'll eventually get around to that scary Eiger story.

Mike G. Look forward to shooting the bull on here with you.

If I've missed anybody, I'll make it up on my next post. Gotta get to work, now. But I do have a story from way back in the last century that I'm not satisfied with. If I post it, could I get some honest, critical feedback?



Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 12, 2006 - 11:51am PT
"Critical" comes easy here, but "honest" is scarce as hen's teeth. lol
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Oct 12, 2006 - 12:19pm PT
Welcome to ST land, Jeff. However, there is plenty of evidence that what ever time you were planning to spend writing will now be lost in the ST vortex. Not that that's all bad.

Best, Roger
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Oct 12, 2006 - 12:43pm PT


There was once a climber named Jello-
known as quite the inventive fellow-
that old shirt by Latok
of which it was spoke
looked just like an old quilted pillow.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 12, 2006 - 01:07pm PT
There once were some climbers named Lowe,
And into the mountains they'd go.
They'd run all around,
Climb up and climb down,
Then come home and put on a show.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 12, 2006 - 01:18pm PT
(adapted)



While climbing some ice in Stambool,
Jeff found some red spots on his tool.
Said the doctor, a cynic,
"Get out of my clinic!
Its only lipstick, you fool!"
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 12, 2006 - 01:45pm PT
Here's a thread "George Lowe at 62":
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=170191&msg=170635#msg170635

It gets pretty silly and has one of the better take-offs I've seen on the Taco.

I recommend reading the thread from the start to get a feel for the set up from which Yo then spun very well a nice little clarification.

Or, Scroll straight down to Yo's march 22 11:29 am post...
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Oct 12, 2006 - 03:30pm PT
Welcome aboard, Jeff. Ran into you at Cathedral Ledge just a short while ago ... 1989 I think it was ... you were free climbing the Prow. A friend and I were linking Windfall/Rapid Transit/Camber to your right, we had a good view of your progress on a harder route all day. Before that, mighta been Eldo early 70s? Gets foggy in here. Anyway, cheers!
michaellane

climber
Spokane, WA
Oct 12, 2006 - 04:44pm PT
Hey, Jeff ... Welcome!

Don't fart around here too much, though. I want to read that book soon!

--Lane

Dingus ... "my partner sh#t on my head?" ... or something like that.
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Oct 12, 2006 - 04:54pm PT
Jeff you are real inspiration. Many times of "suffering" in the outdoors, I just think "J. Lowe, alone, The Eiger..."

I will buy your book before it is availiable. Never met, but many years of watching your adventures through the magazines.

Lowe Cloudwalker.... Badass pack.

Thanks for who you are.


Bart Fay

Social climber
Redlands, CA
Oct 12, 2006 - 05:16pm PT
Yes, JLowe I've been most inspired by you, as well.
EDIT: Um, I'm gunna go ahead and guess that the man with the pretty girl, the beer,
& Nekid Edges does not mid a little JLo
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Oct 12, 2006 - 05:20pm PT
Yo Fart Bay (yes I know). Bite me.
You can find better than that anyway.

DUde, Solo the Eiger... You need to read White Spider.

Then you will get it.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 12, 2006 - 05:53pm PT
Besides, her butt is way too big.
Berg Heil!
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Oct 12, 2006 - 05:57pm PT
Yeah the giant bootie does not do it for me either. But I bet Jeff would rather hear from her that "He has been an inspiration" istead of an old old climber like me.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 12, 2006 - 06:12pm PT
Who do you think left the lipstick?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 12, 2006 - 06:20pm PT
Don't go there Ron...

Hey Ron, look, out your window, up up in the sky,
I think, yes, it's Superman!
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Oct 12, 2006 - 08:12pm PT
Rhod0- nice limerick, but Latok and spoke don't even come close to rhyming. Thanks, though.

Chiloe- I remember that day. I had a huge hangover. Strong Jim Waugh was my partner. That's the only rock route I ever did on Cannon.

Hey Lane, good to hear from you. You still in Spokane?

Bart- J-Lo's booty is booty-ful, indeed. Not too big in my book.

I'm inspired!

Thanks again, Ghoul...I'm honored.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
St. Louis
Oct 12, 2006 - 09:10pm PT
That booty looks like it's fixin' to blow!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 12, 2006 - 09:17pm PT
Roy,

Don't go there?

Hell, the closest I'll get to sharing a ledge with JLo is sharing a ledge with Jello of which, I can say from experience, the enjoyment of the experience is largely dependent upon his recent diet. In fact the guy who posted that blinking photo, Fart Bay, might be jeff's alter avatar....

(and he's always gotta tell you how he likes it. lol)
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 12, 2006 - 09:43pm PT
I meant the lipstick querry Ron!
And missed the JLo thing.
hahahha...I thought that was funny any which ways.

But besides, El Heffe,
Wasn't Bart Fay coincidentaly the name of the guy who did marketing for the Sport Climbing comps?
Wife named Tracy?
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 12, 2006 - 10:09pm PT
Oh.

Bart FAY.

(I got it backwards. Never mind.)
kimgraves

Trad climber
Brooklyn, NY
Oct 13, 2006 - 07:28am PT
Hi Jeff,

Just want to say that I really enjoyed your and Olevsky's DVD. Very good. And was sad to hear about your medical stuff. What book are you not writing?

Best, Kim
jenren

Trad climber
Sac, CA
Oct 13, 2006 - 01:42pm PT
What amazing company to be in..Jeff Lowe! : )

I am relatively new to climbing. Late bloomer. For my 45th B-day my Husband suprised me with climbing gear and we've been climbing ever since..I've been fortunate enough to spend time in Alpiglen and have read White Spider. What an amazing place! I have no idea if you've ever written of it..would love the info if you did.. My Husband also has one of your packs which has taken him through numerous adventures and experiences, a treasured part of our gear. My deepest respect and admiration, Mr. Lowe!
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Oct 13, 2006 - 02:44pm PT
Thanks, Jen and Kim, it's nice to be welcomed so warmly.

Roger- I'll try not to get swallowed up by ST. In fact I'm hoping that participating here will keep the juices flowing on the book.

stich- the Eiger story will come in due time. Maybe sooner, now that there have been a couple of requests.

A little about the thing that's causing me such grief (the book I'm working on):

Working Title: MANY CLIMBS, MANY STORIES

Synopsis: An autobiographical guidebook, featuring photos and route descriptions to about 200 of my best first ascents. About 20 stories interspersed. Broken into chapters according to type of climbing, i.e. Foundation Stones, Small Gems, The Big Wall Era, The Rocks are Free, Water Ice, Alpine Ice, The Walls of Winter, Alpine Dreams, Fool On The Hill (solo) and Alpine Style in the Great Ranges. Side bar discussions regarding rock types, ice types, gear, etc.

Physical: about 400 color photos, 300pp, 8-1/2 x 11, hardbound, Westcliffe Press

I'm about half-way through the project, and need to get it done in the next few months.

I'm hoping the folks on this thread can help keep me motivated to keep plugging away. All your kind comments have already helped!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 13, 2006 - 03:34pm PT
This should be an interesting project as the book will be linked to Jeff's website so that info on routes can be updated and kept current.

(It should also be interesting to see what input they get from Dougal after exhuming him...)
Pman

Trad climber
Upstate NY
Oct 13, 2006 - 07:48pm PT
Hey Jeff,

A few years ago (January 2004,I think) I was racking up at Chapel Pond in the Adirondacks. It was a very cold morning and being the day after Mountainfest the place was mostly deserted as I remember. Will Gadd with some of our local talent including Will Mayo had already racked and were heading for the ice across the pond. And then you pulled up. My partner and I just hung out and watched as you climbed to the main ledge and then as Will G. pieced together a new mixed route above (A way of two Wills). It was one of my more memorable days of climbing and I didn't even swing a tool. I have a few pictures, nothing came out great but I'd love to share them with you. Thanks.

Steve
Euroford

Trad climber
chicago
Oct 13, 2006 - 08:35pm PT
that sounds like a killer book concept, go get back to work dammit! and put me down for two...

also, thats got to be one of the best forums nicknames around, it just works.



Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 13, 2006 - 08:49pm PT
Hello Jeff, and thanks for the compliment. (Cheque's in the mail...) We may have met, very briefly, at some time or other, but not so it left any impression. So you can maybe put me on the list of new "virtual" friends.

Looking forward to your posts and writing. I do a bit of both, and always like a good read.

Though I have been climbing since the early 1970s, mostly in B.C., and we've undoubtedly got some commonalities somewhere along the line. I post under a boy scout nickname (non-charitable), but add my given name for anything of substance. A give away - I'm pretty involved in the climbing community here.

Anders
(Vancouver)
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Oct 13, 2006 - 09:07pm PT
Book sounds like a "Must Have".
First release Party on Super Taco in the future months?
I will stop there. Jeff, stop reading, keep writing... lol.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Oct 13, 2006 - 09:12pm PT
I remember that day, Pman. It was my last day on ice. My legs hurt too much to stand on frontpoints, anymore. But it was a good last day, pimping the two Wills on to complete their cool project.

I know who you are, Anders, at least by name if not by sight. I look forward to BS-ing with you here on the Taco.

Thanks, Ford, I'll get back to work...
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Oct 14, 2006 - 12:12am PT
Bart Fay does sound familiar Tarboots, Hey ho, Bart - is that you of old Sport clamberin' and promotin' times together?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 14, 2006 - 12:22am PT
Anders is a Jewel here on the Topo!

Hey Jeff,
'Member that piece you penned a while back about testing some soloist ideas, maybe on the flanks of Ama Dablam? Somethin' like Ice Climberin' up with an 8 mil in yer pack, then just 'rappin down after the tuff bit?

I love that shite man.
Keep on penning it up.
Yah, you can burn a lot of time here on the taco, but personally, I have to say it is time very well spent, because we all participate in a very real way together.

Via Con Dios Bro...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 14, 2006 - 12:29am PT
...I do not think it is the same Bart Fay Jeff.

Either way, and no disrespect Bart Fay,

Jeff, pertaining to Bart Fay of Sport Climbing:
I rememeber a late night at sno- bird, all of us whacked out on long hours and nothin' else,
Bart just stamping away on ticket validations,
'Puttin' in his time with all of us,

Man, I think it was a Zen Moment for me, never gonnah forget all the stuff we all do to get by, especially when
There is Heart In It.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Oct 14, 2006 - 12:30pm PT
Yeah, the Eigerwand.

I have always wanted to climb it, but...

A. I will probably never be a good enough Alpine climber to do it

B. I am a coward and that is one face that cowards should stay away from

and...

C. It kind of is a huge choss pile, isn't it Jeff?



But jaysus, you have to admire Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek


(or anybody who climbs it)
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Oct 14, 2006 - 12:59pm PT
I think you've kind of mixed a couple of climbs together in your mind, Tarbuster, the South Face of Ama Dablam, which I completed, and the South face of Trapecio, where I rapped off after the hard part but below the summit. By the way, the Trapecio route was finished last summer by a trio of Czech? climbers, 20 years after my climb. Anyway, thanks for your great enthusiasm. I can tell it's gonna help keep me focused on the Finnish. Like those lads on the Nose in another thread, it's hard to start, when you're already Finnish - which I am!

Patrick, I've never done the 1938 route on the Eiger, but my route, Metanoia, which I did in winter and which goes up the steepest part of the central face, has excellent if sometimes pretty crackless limestone and good ice. I experienced zero rockfall, but tons of spindrift, which just lent that Eiger flavor that is so repulsive/attractive. Of course that climb will be in the book, as it was my biggest/hardest.best solo. No repeats yet, although it's been tried a few times.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Oct 14, 2006 - 02:26pm PT
Wow Jeff, after Mountain mag (great publication IMO) went out of business I sort of lost touch with what was going on in the climbing world, I didn't realize you did a new route on the Eiger Norwand, and solo too?

Jaysus, awesome to say the least.


EDIT

But doing any route on that face is awesome.
10b4me

Trad climber
California
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2006 - 01:25pm PT
10b, do I know thee?

Jeff, never tied into a cord with you;met you at a slideshow in SoCal about three years ago.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Oct 15, 2006 - 04:43pm PT
Just did a quick review of this thread and realized that I haven't responded to Malabarista. Thanks, MB, it's nice to hear that the effort put into Ice World had its' desired result with you. Writing is so unlike climbing. There's no physical effort to clean out self-doubts and second-guessing.

It's a great fall day here in northern utah. I've been out stumbling around on the trails behind my house, looking up at the cliffs with what I have to admit is some nostalgia and even a bit of melancholy. I really do miss climbing! But I'm not complaining - I got to play hard in the hills for fifty years. Now I'm getting the chance to sort through all those great experiences and come to a better understanding of who I am at the deeper levels, and what my tiny role in the big cosmos might be. If I was still climbing all the time, I'd never have gotten this opportunity for reflection/appreciation.

I'd like to post a photo to the Wind Rivers, 1969 thread, but I'm an absolute computer/web illiterate. I read through some of the suggestions on the subject, here on ST, but to me it's all Greek. If someone would be kind enough to contact me by e-mail and leave a phone number where I could contact them and they would kindly walk me through the process, I'd be happy to give them a copy of the new book when it's published. Just remember, if you volunteer for this, you'll need a lot of patience!

NOTE: Mighty Hiker sent me clear and concise instructions for posting photos. Worked easy first time. Thanks to Anders, I'm an instant expert - NOT!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 15, 2006 - 07:54pm PT
Its a pretty nice afternoon in southern Utah too, Jeff, though things are wet from yesterday's dump..
There's a link for info on posting photos in no_one's thread (and you sort of just got mentioned).
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Oct 15, 2006 - 09:01pm PT
Thanks, Ron, Anders helped me out and I'm good to go with photos, now. I inserted a photo in the story at the top of this thread.

I mean the Wind River thread!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 16, 2019 - 08:55am PT
Bump!
L

climber
Just livin' the dream
May 16, 2019 - 11:23am PT
Just read the entire thread.....

Still leaves an ache in my heart that I was never able to meet Jello the Amazing One. He is certainly missed.
plund

Social climber
OD, MN
May 16, 2019 - 11:31am PT
"It's awfully dark in here" on his urn....just may have to steal that line.
J R

climber
bend
May 16, 2019 - 12:37pm PT
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