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ExtraBlue
Ice climber
the ford VT
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 8, 2015 - 01:18pm PT
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http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/News/2015-7-7/Emily-Harrington-Sends-Golden-Gate-on-El-Cap
"Emily chose to attempt Golden Gate free after her friend Hazel Findlay, who freed the route in 2011, recommended it. She made it one of her 2015 goals, which include: making finals in a sport climbing nationals comp (which she missed by one spot), redpointing a 5.14, freeing Golden Gate, and climbing the fifth highest peak in the world, Makalu (8463m), sans oxygen."
Who else is even trying to train for such a wide range of climbing styles, let alone excel at them?
How many people who climb above 8k can redpoint 5.14? How many of those competing in sport climbing are trying 41 pitch routes?
Feel free to school me, but she seems rather unique.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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She'll get there, I'm sure. She's lucky though to have you as a devoted fan.
Add another 10-15 years of salt and pepper and who knows how far she could go?
Arne
edit-yes the things you mention, hard sport, high altitude, hard multi-pitch are not as common but certainly not new. Others have led that way before. Alex Lowe, Beat Kammerlander, Lynn Hill, Jeff Lowe and many, many others.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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She is a lucky schnook, that is not a degrading comment, just the truth,
At 29years old she has a great life , Wow I am all "jello" and it shows
This is copied from her team profile page(I think)
Where to climb? Where to live?
Spain, of course, is my favorite spot for sport climbing, because it's just that good. I love visiting the Himalaya, in Nepal, because of its insane beauty and rich culture. I just recently moved to California to live because, in my opinion, it has everything: good weather, beaches, and mountains.
Sources of inspiration
I find strength, energy, and inspiration through traveling, meeting people, having adventures, and experiencing new cultures. Sasha DiGiulian is also an inspiration for stepping it up for all females and doing what she loves without concerning herself with negativity. I consider Conrad Anker, our team captain on The North Face Team, to be a mentor. He's a badass and loves what he does. I was on Everest with him this past spring. I've never seen someone so psyched to be suffering. He's passionate and motivated to share his love for the outdoors, which I think it super inspiring.
Personal motto:
Do not accept unwanted advice; write your own story.
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ExtraBlue
Ice climber
=802-1
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2015 - 01:46pm PT
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Wiessner...
There have been many others. But no one else in the current crop of pro climbers under thirty.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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There is no "best" climber, there is a range of best climbers that waxes and wanes.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Do not accept unwanted advice; write your own story.
Funny how as you age the realization of so much great advice that was unwanted at the time.
Go Emily!!!
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tripmind
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Her climbing is pretty solid, her attitude and mindset on the rock absolutely reeks of yuppie shortcut culture.
I just recently moved to California to live because, in my opinion, it has everything: good weather, beaches, and mountains. That's exactly the words that a typical yuppie transplant says in this place
What I want to see is a duo video of her and Pamela Pack doing some hurtful OW's
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ruppell
climber
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Most all around is a better way to put it. Sounds like she's trying to be the female version of Uli Steck.
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jstan
climber
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Thus Spoke, Zarathustras..
I hate to say this but if I keep reading ST I may get a well rounded education.
I'd like to know though. Did Nietzsche ever publish statistics as regards his confidence in his projections?
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Emily is great, but I'd say David Lama has probably a stronger record, and is about 5 years younger.
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Wir redenüber Poesie so abstract, weil wir alle schlechte Dichter zu sein pflegen.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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There is no "best" climber, there is a range of best climbers that waxes and wanes.
I imagine Extra Blue knows waxes...
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ExtraBlue
Ice climber
=802-1
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2015 - 07:30am PT
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Todd Wins.
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steve shea
climber
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Good one Todd. I like old school Toko Moly, that is a good base for all around... But we are going downhill.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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"Behold, I teach you the overman! The overman is the meaning of the earth. Let your will say: the overman shall be the meaning of the earth! I beseech you, my brothers, remain faithful to the earth, and do not believe those who speak to you of otherworldly hopes! Poison-mixers are they, whether they know it or not. Despisers of life are they, decaying and poisoned themselves, of whom the earth is weary: so let them go!"
Thus Spoke Zarathustra, Prologue,
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Rockies Obscure
Trad climber
rockiesobscure.com....Canada
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Dumb question, but if that was a A5 traverse, how did she get some gear in there so well to hold her on repeated falls?
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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QuoGood one Todd. I like old school Toko Moly, that is a good base for all around... But we are going downhill.te Here
That would be the Toko E-Moly Harrington...
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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She's a 5.15 Whiner
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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And someone should really tell her about edging shoes. That was painful to watch her try to edge in those things!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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congratulations, that and five bucks will get her a latte at stewbucks
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Darkmagus is a hater and a shart stain.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 9, 2015 - 08:50am PT
And someone should really tell her about edging shoes. That was painful to watch her try to edge in those things!
LOL, I didn't see it, I couldn't stomach more than three minutes of her voice, but the screenshot of her heel-hooking was plenty upsetting to me...
TC BROZ 4 LYFE
Flip Flop: I'm very sensitive to high pitched sounds like Bosch drills, falcon screeches, and high-pressure sharting
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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She's bad ass for sure!
She has done something that most of us couldn't, can't, won't ever do.
That being said, it's the lack of apprenticeship that kinda bugs me with many of today's "right now" be the best, sponsored climbers.
Good enough to free 5.13, but not knowing how to haul, sheesh. A lot can happen, and go wrong, when you have no schooling in some rudimentary systems that are admittedly grunt work, but an important part of the game nonetheless.
Good on her for getting it done though!
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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That being said, it's the lack of apprenticeship that kinda bugs me with many of today's "right now" be the best, sponsored climbers.
Is it good to expect someone to waste their best athletic years in some endless apprenticeship because that what we geezers did?
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Brian
climber
California
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That being said, it's the lack of apprenticeship that kinda bugs me with many of today's "right now" be the best, sponsored climbers.
Is it good to expect someone to waste their best athletic years in some endless apprenticeship because that what we geezers did?
The whole "pay your dues" in an apprenticeship is so overblown. I get it, apprenticeship can be useful; but it is not always necessary. Demographically, I probably fall between the "geezers" and the "today's" climbers, but probably closer to the geezers.
I started climbing in 1981 and I have never had a climbing mentor, other than Freedom of the Hills. I've had lots of partners, but never someone with loads more experience than me, or who climbed more than a letter grade or so harder than me. And you know what? Freedom of the Hills, an audacious sense of adventure and willingness to go for it, a can-do attitude, and a healthy respect for gravity is pretty much all you need it seems.
I started bouldering and top-roping (with hip belays, in tennis shoes and a seat-harness made of 21 feet of 1 inch webbing, courtesy of Freedom of the Hills).
When I wanted to lead, I figured it out with a bit of reading, a bit of common sense, and a bit of practice. Started with stoppers and hexes before I could afford cams, and the trusty hip belay before I got a Stich plate.
When I wanted to push my leading, I just did so. I did not build a pyramid of 5.6s before I moved to 5.7. Screw that. I just started jumping on Josh 5.10, sometimes sending and sometimes getting my ass handed to me. After some of that, I moved on to 5.11, 5.12, and so on up the ladder. Let's not act like placing a good nut is the equivalent of calculating the trajectory for landing a probe on a comet. Sure, there are ways to do it wrong, and some people are better than others; but, c'mon, it's not that hard.
When I wanted to climb El Cap, I got another partner who was also a decent "trad" (i.e., gear) climber and we just went and climbed the Column and then the Nose. No one showed us how to do it. We just figured it out. El Cap too is not, in fact, rocket science. My first time up El Cap I was only a 5.10 "trad" leader. Just point your nose up and go to the top. Hauling? Figured it out. Lowering out? Figured it out. First solo of El Cap? Yep, just figured it out. Somewhere along the line someone had told me how to solo with a clove hitch on a locking pearabiner, and so I took that and just figured out the rest.
When I started ice climbing? Alpine climbing? First overseas objectives? You guessed it: I figured it out, either alone or with partners. The adventure, the uncertainty, of figuring it out yourself is part of the attraction. And as long as one has the aforementioned common sense along with a healthy respect for cause and effect, gravity, and mortality, figuring it out yourself ain't so bad.
Let me state for the record that I am a thoroughly mediocre climber, and I am sure that the above story parallels the story of plenty of other climbers. If someone like me can solo El Cap, or climb hard trad, or climb mixed alpine all without paying a guide or finding a sage-like mentor, then I'm pretty sure that someone as badass as Emily, who has friends to learn from like Hazel Findlay and Conrad Anker, can get up El Cap without us griping that she has not "paid her dues," whatever that means. Emily has done something really cool here. She had a dream, trained for it, figured out how to do it, and then did it (and in pretty decent style). I think it's pretty inspirational.
PS EDIT: Don't want to sound like too much of a jerk, and I don't want to direct that comment directly at survival or any other poster. However, the "pay your dues" attitude is one that I see fairly often at the crag and read fairly often online, so I'm going to leave the comment. I'll also note that I'm not encouraging more Darwin-award style climbing, as I've been on my share of rescues caused by someone's stupidity, arrogance, or lack of respect for gravity. But I do believe those crises were cause by stupidity, arrogance, or lack of respect for gravity, not by the unfathomable complexity of climbing. Our history is a history of folks figuring it out for themselves.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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No offense taken here.
But "just figuring it out" has taken a lot of lives over the years.
I never said endless apprenticeship or anything, but there's a certain wisdom in learning from someone with experience. It's worked pretty well for thousands of years in many/every field of endeavor.
I wasn't trying to bash on the gal, but I get a point of view as well.
I wish there had been a bit more flexibility in the work your way up/ no hangdogging, pre-inspecting mantra when I was a kid. I might've gotten a lot further in my heyday. I must've led 50 10a's before I moved on to 10b. Whatever, I was just a slow poke and only made it into the 5.12 trad zone. But I did a hell of a lot of hard routes onsight. Anyway, I feel good about the style I worked all those years, but I'm still glad the game is moving forward, as it must.
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couchmaster
climber
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I suspect that most of us are so far behind that gal in any skill measurement that we don't have a viewpoint that's worthy of crap in this debate. At least speaking for myself that's the case. "Best Climber"? Can't say but she's rockin the Casbah, go Emily!
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Brian
climber
California
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But "just figuring it out" has taken a lot of lives over the years.
I never said endless apprenticeship or anything, but there's a certain wisdom in learning from someone with experience. It's worked pretty well for thousands of years in many/every field of endeavor.
Can't argue with the truth of that, and it's really important to remember.
I wish there had been a bit more flexibility in the work your way up/ no hangdogging, pre-inspecting mantra when I was a kid.
I know what you mean...
But I did a hell of a lot of hard routes onsight. Anyway, I feel good about the style I worked all those years, but I'm still glad the game is moving forward, as it must.
Amen. Ground up onsight remains the goal. Every time. Even if I don't rise to that standard every single time. Redpointing or sieging or whatever comes after.
My own POV may not really be so far from yours I suspect; but I was trying to make a point about folks (none on this thread) suggesting that you should not climb El Cap until you lead X number of 5.XX routes, climb in the Valley X number of times, and so on. I remember hearing about some woman who kept off leading (or maybe it was even setting up top rope anchors) by a bunch of her older male friends, who for years kept her down with the apprenticeship story, talking about how serious and complex and dangerous it all is. When this woman finally hired a guide and got some instruction (maybe Chicks with Picks?), her overwhelming feeling was: "F*#k. I kept myself from leading (or top roping or whatever) for a couple of years because of this? It's so basic, so straightforward."
I totally agree with you that I've see a lot of carnage, and even more near-carnage, from people who do not have enough common sense, or who are too proud to ask a question of a more experienced person, or who want to look cool, or who do not respect gravity. I also think every one of that accidents was terrible and I wished they did not happen. I hate helping to stabilize some bloody, hurt, scared human being while we are waiting for the helicopter. And so I should probably remember and take seriously your points when I encourage folks to go for it. That's a good reminder.
I guess there is some mean to be found between wanting to avoid the rescues, injuries, and deaths on the one hand (which is important) and not over-stating the gravity, pun intended, of the situations (for any number of reasons) on the other. That mean surely varies depending on the context. I make my kids triple check everything when they climb, wear helmets when they lead (or even when they hang at the base of some crags), and so on. But I've got other friends--smart, properly cautious, adults--who I often tell to just go for it and figure it out.
But, back to the topic of the thread, Emily's ascent kicks ass, and seems to me to fall well, well, well within the range of competent, safe, prepared people pushing the boat out a litter further from shore on an awesome adventure. Great job. Got me psyched.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Good post!
Yes, Go Emily!
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Sonic
Trad climber
Boulder, Co
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So many haters...haha
Nice work Emily
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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I thought that was beautifully done, both her achievement and the filming of the piece. I laughed when I saw the production company's name "Louder than Eleven".
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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she kicks ass and Adrian is an incredible alpinist
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Brian,
I think you hit the spot, I've done quite well by fumbling my way through the skills and had lots of fun doing it.
Steve
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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I didn't know how to haul till I needed to. Then I learned. No big and hardly an indictment. Hauling ain't climbing. Its baggage handling.
So getting on El Cap for six days without ever having hauled before is the new recommended method? Fine.
Let's just say it's dangerous baggage handling shall we? Ever heard of the triple chop?
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Emily is a great person and climber... not your ordinary climber working her way up the grades! I have watched her climb on Elcap and she has the necessary determination and skill. Also, she is a free climber and thus is doing those kind of routes... I don't think she is quite ready to do the "Sea" however. That said, she could pay some dues in that arena and I have no doubt would do well climbing hard aid routes. Best climber out there???? Probably not ... yet anyway.
However the post, as always seems to happen on ST, was morphed into a conversation on knowing how to do things before you go up on ElCap. I always recommend "paying some dues" to any climbers who want to climb ElCap. You don't have to spend years getting your dues paid but it is a good idea to have practiced wall climbing on a real wall and not hanging from a tree, for example. Why not just go for it, some might ask? Well, HALF of all teams starting on ElCap end up bailing... I don't wonder why! Have you ever been behind an inexperienced team, low in the Legs, and spent most of the day waiting for them to "figure it out?" It happens a lot. So, while you may be able to fumble your way along and finally figure things out for yourself, climbing ElCap is NOT just about YOU. There are others who have prepared, planned, and taken time off work, to come to attempt ElCap and their time is as valuable as yours... it is more than just you up there, so be considerate of others and don't go up there not knowing how things work before hand.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Aside from Nancy Faegan, there is no one else with that broad of a talent. Hard to rate climbers but in terms of overall chops, EH is hard to beat. The fact that she's a noob on the Big Stone and still dicks Golden Gate is only a plus in my book.
JL
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Brian
climber
California
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Hard to rate climbers but in terms of overall chops, EH is hard to beat. The fact that she's a noob on the Big Stone and still dicks Golden Gate is only a plus in my book.
+1
"Best" climber is an open-ended debate, and there are lots of other names I would add to the conversation. But Emily is clearly pretty damn impressive.
climbing ElCap is NOT just about YOU. There are others who have prepared, planned, and taken time off work, to come to attempt ElCap and their time is as valuable as yours...
Now, that's a statement that cuts both ways. I understand folks getting frustrated with slow parties epicing on easy terrain. I've been that frustrated person, fuming about a crowd, bottleneck, or other such clusterf*#k. But, if it's just not about me, it's not just about me. I think one should expect a reasonable amount of traffic on a route like the Nose, including some folks in over their head. If I want fewer folks, I can walk further, go during the off season, change objectives, and so on. After all, it's not all about me. (Note: I write this in full acknowledgement of my own conflicts on the point, as I've been the guy bitching about the cluster.)
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Robert, do you need a hug?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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The title of the thread is kinda strong...
but the video is great!
Killer job, proud send.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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^as dreljefe says:
I'm not in the hating camp myself. I loved watching her climb, she's one damn plucky lass, ef yeah. There is almost enough footage of OW climbing. The technical cruxes were really interesting for me to see as a window into another universe.
The OP did a disservice by raising the red-herring of "best". What J.Do. said about that on the first page.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 10, 2015 - 12:50am PT
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it. Sounds like she's trying to be the female version of Uli Steck.
Yeah, because walking up one of the easiest 8000m peaks is like soloing a 9000ft route on one... :)
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mikeyschaefer
climber
Sport-o-land
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Jul 10, 2015 - 06:02am PT
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Robert L - Just to correct you a little bit. Brette didn't solo a technical mixed route in patagonia. She solo'd an 11b rock route. No crampons or ice tools are needed on the route. Not even boots. Still way bad-ass.
And to everyone hating on Emily. I hardly know her but have always been impressed. I think what she is doing is awesome. It's great to see a comp/sport climber mature into an all around real climber. Maybe she didn't spend years gumbing around and epicing on 5.9's like a lot of other people but she has put plenty of time in.
I didn't really pay any "dues" either. I saw something I wanted to do and I went and did it. It appears to me that is what Emily is more people should probably do that in life.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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Jul 10, 2015 - 07:11am PT
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Hmmm... sounds to me like some people are jealous and old. Emily has been and is being mentored by the best and is getting things done most climbers dream of.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jul 10, 2015 - 08:04am PT
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I suspect what the "haters" are railing against is the subtext of promotional marketing to get mindshare and build a following, as part of getting sponsored to make a career out of something you love. Swap in any name and story of up-and-coming and the comments would be the same. Maybe the lifer cube dwellers that were pretty good in their day but not as good as they wanted to be (for lack of time commitment) are the biggest haters.
In any case, I can't imagine myself being that good in any dimension of climbing, and I do find it inspiring for people who can reach these heights through the good fortune of early life circumstances and then applying their own will power and development into the mix.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 10, 2015 - 08:17am PT
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Where do people keep getting this "hater" bullsh#t?
No one has "hated" on her personally at all.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 10, 2015 - 08:45am PT
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Hate, hater, hating.....most misused terms on ST. Used in reference to people who have contrary views on a subject. I guess its a way of intimidating free expression.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jul 10, 2015 - 08:46am PT
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Emily is bad ass. I couldn't do that and I whine too.
Y'all are crabs in a bucket. Pay her dues? She just freed El Cap...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 10, 2015 - 09:06am PT
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Emily is obviously SUPER bad ass.....but come on, calling her the BEST climber out there is more than a stretch.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 10, 2015 - 09:08am PT
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Can't really take anything away from her, the achievement is pretty amazing and speaks for itself! I certainly don't hate on what she did, how she did it, or anything like that. I got nothing!
Just thought she'd be having a bit more...fun? "We've been on here ALL DAYYYY and we have to do it six more times!" Uh, ok, are you sure you even like doing this? Or do you "have to" do it for some reason? I mean, I know it's hard work, I've never even attempted anything like it, so maybe it SUCKS and she's right to have that attitude. I just would have liked to see more happy/zen/fun vibes.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jul 10, 2015 - 09:35am PT
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I work at Adidas Outdoor part time and know how these "sponsord" climbers have to thrutch around trying to make a living and have a place to hang their hat etc. They also have to work the social media loop like crazy (read: boring!) just to stay relevant.
If you slam the woman for vainty or self-promotion, think about the effort and risk required to not only do all that climbing but to put yourself out there, totally exposed, only to have us dufers say, "So what?" She isn't really all that...
I've always enjoyed celebrating the ones who put their big heart into the work and have never felt done out of any glory or felt less-than by dint of their achievements or fame. A carreer that has an Everest summit and other 8,000 meter peaks, free asecents of El Cap, and national level sport climbing comps is a mighty proud one in my book. Period.
I've never met Emily Harrington but now I want to get her autograph and buy her dinner.
JL
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 10, 2015 - 09:43am PT
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these "sponsord" climbers have to thrutch around trying to make a living Then you must also be aware of the reality that many of these climbers don't have to work full time because of family money. Not all of them, but quite a few. If we're going to have a conversation about how this stuff gets funded, let's at least keep it real.
It's not a slam, good for them, many squander the same on drugs and lethargy - but it's also the reality of where several have found the time to work up to the level of freeing El Cap.
There are many more with at least the talent and motivation, but lacking similar opportunity.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 11, 2015 - 02:50pm PT
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Hey Largo
I'd think Emily would want YOUR autograph and buy YOU dinner!
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bbbeans
Trad climber
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Jul 11, 2015 - 04:49pm PT
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Just watched the video of her climbing Golden Gate. So inspiring! Go Emily!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 13, 2015 - 01:48pm PT
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I liked the video of her Free climbing the Golden Gate quite a lot! But saying someone is THE BEST climber out there is quite silly, so many great climbers out there...with different skill sets.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jul 14, 2015 - 01:34am PT
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rSin told me on the phone to watch this Golden Gate video, so I did.
As far as I can tell, apprenticeship fell by the wayside when Hot Henry Barber BEGAN climbing at 5.10, or so the story went back in that day.
I agree with Brian, from page two, that they were useful for THOSE WITH NO NATURAL TALENT, but not necessary for the truly gifted.
Anything else is just sour grapes, envy, hating, etc.
As to that A5 Traverse -- it stopped being A5 long ago and fixed things appeared to use as pro, I imagine...
It is sort of funny, I'll grant you, about the hauling. I was shakin' my head, too.
Vitaliy, how's the leg?
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 14, 2015 - 08:46am PT
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Their hauling skills looked fine to me, dude looked pro on the jugs as well. Only way I could tell they were noobs is that they announced it.
They probably had a couple of the best in the Valley, if not the world, showing them how to do all this bullsh!t and picked it up rather quickly - because frankly it's pretty easy compared to placing in Nationals.
There's your fuk'n mentorship, chumps, all the necessary 10 minutes of it.
As for her other skills, EH has been around the best in the world since she was what - like 6 yrs old?
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