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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 2, 2015 - 10:21am PT
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I've never been to the needles. Been climbing for over 20 years and have never laid eyes on the place. I have a single day to go there in a couple weeks with an old high school friend who "used" to climb.
We have exactly one day and he lives in Pasadena and I'm in Fresno and we want to check the place out and have a little one day adventure. Is there anything at all in the 5.7 range I can haul him up? I'm not gonna try and tow him up some 5.9 finger action and make the day miserable. But is there even one route in the beginner range that leads to the top of a formation out there? Any beta would be much appreesh.
Thanks kids,
Scott
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Not: The Needles, but you get a killer view from Dome Rock.
The "Tree Route" 5.6 3P, fits your bill.... best in the afternoon, short hike in... walk off the top to your car. Other EZ stuff at the same start as Tree Route... climb late, enjoy the shade.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Ya Micronut the tree route is classic, and just what you're looking for. Good camping right there too.
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Matt's
climber
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dome rock aint the needles...
bit like asking for a route in yosemite and recommending a route in tuolemne...
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overwatch
climber
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That is the one we were going to do as our first route. Had a partner meltdown issue and ended up bailing. Still need to get back, that place is mystical
^^^vvv
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Haven't been there in decades, by my wife and I did an easy route, Magic Dragon, up the Magician where fire lookout was (is? did it get rebuilt?).
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Hiking out and back.... is an adventure in its self, do the drive from LA and add the drive home.... that will be one big day for sure.
looking forward to the TR.
have fun.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Igor unchained 5.9 classic and easy..
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CAC
Gym climber
Clairemont
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Magic Dragon is the route you are looking for. The view just keeps getting better the higher up you get. There are a few 5.9 moves on the first few pitches, much easier the rest of the way. The scramble to the base is mildly unpleasant and it's a bit of a walk in so start early.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Poof is also a possibility on the magician if you are solid on slightly run out 5.7.
The finish is a bit harder 5.8 wide crack but you can just rap the route to avoid it.
I'd do the tree route with the guy. If he hadn't climbed much, there will be less stress and it's one of the best routes anywhere in that range.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/poof/105844596
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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The Tree Route is a contender for the best 5.6 in the state and has the added advantage of a short downhill approach and an easy downhill walk back to the car.
Magic Dragon is a fairly longish scramble down to the start. There's a 5.8 move on either the first or second pitch and then many pitches of 5.0 with sparse gear.
You'll feel like a character from Dune walking the back of a sandworm with spectacular views of the other formations, but with someone who hasn't climbed in years in tow, I'd opt for the Tree Route.
Or, do the Tree Route on the way there, (it only takes a couple of hours at most)then, if things went well head for Magic Dragon the next morning.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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short downhill approach and an easy downhill walk back to the car
Wow, now I see why they call it magic! I want to find more routes like that.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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"White Punks on Dope" on Voodoo Dome (5.9) is the only route I've done there.
You will fall in love with the Needles!
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Bob Harrington
climber
Bishop, California
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Given the limitations of your partner, a good choice would be the Charlatan summit block. One short excellent 5.7 pitch. Six miles of hiking for a little bit of climbing, but the hike is pleasant, the quality of the climbing is good, and the summit memorable. You get great views into the heart of the Needles, which would fire you up for returning to do longer harder stuff.
Edit: As recommended below, the name of this route is The Lady of the Needles.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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For the grade you're looking for, Black Magic or Magic Dragon is a fine choice.
White Punks is terrific but should be considered 5.9. Bring lost of fluids, it can get warm there.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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You're planning to drive all the way there, climb, and drive home all in the same day? Or will you have a full day to climb?
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EP
Trad climber
Way Out There
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Stars and Stripes Forever and The Lady of the Needles.
Went to The Tree Route two weeks ago. We did it as a trio with two ropes and climbed it quickly. The leader was so jazzed after living in Colorado for the last five years he ran to the bottom and soloed it while we sorted gear and coiled the ropes. He and I agreed it is more fun than the Grack . Between the three of us, it has been climbed 75 or more times in the last 28 years.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Are you at least driving up the night before? If not you will be very short on time and Dome Rock would be your option.
Lady of the Needles is only 30' high, but would be good if you are totally gassed by the time you hike out on the trail.
Black Magic / Strange Brew (ridge route on Magician) is nice, but the scramble to the base is not obvious and could be rough or slow since it may involve some solo downclimbing. One advantage is that you don't have to scramble around the north side of Magician like you do to access the other formations, which also involves some 3rd/4th classing.
One climb that might work is the north ridge on the Witch. It's a 1-3 pitch 5.5, and gets you onto a summit in the heart of the Needles.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2015 - 02:32pm PT
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Whoah thanks for the beta storm! We are driving in Thursday nite and have no timeline on Friday whatsoever. Dome Rock sounds nice and chill, but what's that three pitch 5.5 on the Witch all about at the Needles? Might look into that cause going to the Needles proper is a bit more exciting sounding than Dome Rock.
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deschamps
Gym climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Any news on the road? I leave tomorrow morning and am debating which vehicle to take. I want to take a Nissan Altima.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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We've been getting tons of lighting here in Seki the last few days with sporadic rain. Going out to the Needles for the first time is humbling to say the least! I've heard of climbers, planning on climbing big routes who had never been there, and when they got there they changed their plans due to the steepness and seriousness of the lines. But, its way worth the look and to climb there is just awesome! The yellow lichen is electric and the wilderness feel is like not other climbing area around. Thats why its world class climbing! I always look forward to your TRs and hope you go to the Needles so we can see what you see! Enjoy and watch the weather......
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Bob Harrington
climber
Bishop, California
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De champs- the road is good right now. Micronut- you could summit both Witch via the route Clint mentioned and Charlatan the same day.
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greyghost
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Scott, It is going to be warm beginning of July. Good and free camping on top of Dome Rock. I know Bob H and he will be solid on the road conditions to the Needles
Dome Rocks Tree Route is a classic. There is a bolted face to the left of the Tree Route which you might be able to rig from one of the Tree Route stations...about 5.8+ There is an old Sierra Club route on the farthest left side of Dome Rock which may get shade in the morning. It's next right of the Last Dihedral and not on MP or in a book. I was there 4 years ago to retro bolt for ASCA and did not get to it so the hardware may be old.
Do the Tree Route in the afternoon. Magic Dragon is long and good. It is in the sun all afternoon. Honestly I can't think of any routes easier than 5.8 (and they mean it) at the Needles.
Regards, Tom
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Jul 2, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
If you go to Dome Rock,
You have to go do either,
Wind Lord, or Windjammer.
Bring LOTS of 9/16ths nylon webbing
for slinging LOTS of knobs and chickenheads.
In fact. that's what 9 tenths of the pro is on the 3 pitches
They are CLASSICS!!!!
They also aren't 5.6 or anywhere near it.
Why not just tell him to do Between Nothingness and a Eternity?
Much better route than Windjammer.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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FWIW Stars and Stripes mentioned above is 5.9. The second pitch is fantastic but kinda wild if yer lookin' for 5.7. If you do end up on top of the Sorcerer be careful on the rap. A single 60M cord will deposit you on some very exposed easy 5th class ledges to downclimb. A 70 is fine.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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I think the recommendations you've gotten so far are pretty spot on. It's pretty much either the Tree Route, which is a blast, or Magic Dragon. The latter looks really nice and may be something to aim for if your partner is fit and up for a longer day. The former will be more of a fun afternoon kind of thing. Although the hike into the Needles is a chore, it's also got great scenery and will inspire you to come back. If you were willing to hike in, mostly to check it out, I'd venture to say that it would be worthwhile even if you were just going to tag the spire on the summit of Charlatan, though it's all of 40 ft. long. You can also do Poof, as someone up thread suggested, which looks fun and gets you to the summit of Magician (see the picture). How often do you get to descend by staircase?
Some others have suggested great routes (Igor, Windjammer, etc.) but those are definitely harder than what you were asking for. The only other routes I can think of might be the Beckey route (5.8) on the Hermit Spire, but the approach and length will definitely be offputting for a newbie.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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I did the South Face of the Hermit recently as research for the book (it's coming, I swear it. The Needles is done, Dome is about there, Hermit left.) Anyway I though it was pretty heads up and no way 5.8. Even old school it's full on 5.9 free. Then again the topo in the green guide is out to lunch. Not even close, which is weird since the photo of Miguel is on route. That's an E.C. Joe topo, and it appears that he did yet another FA, this time without knowing it :-)
Anyway trust me it's not what yer lookin' for...
I think Poof is great. Of course I have a soft spot for it, being my first Needles route. Don't leave anything at the base, there's a rap off modern bolts on the west side which puts you right at the bottom of the old lookout stairs which hopefully you passed in the way in. The rap anchor is right up under the lookout site, if you poke around you'll find it. Two raps with a 60.
IMO Poof is much more interesting than all that low angle slabbing on Black Magic.
I trust you are aware of the useful beta to be found at Monsteroffwidthdotcom?
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overwatch
climber
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Great scoop ksolem, can't wait for the new guide
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MikeL
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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Geez, I don't think the OP's request can be well-answered.
Honestly, it's tough out there, but as someone above said, electric and magical unlike any other place on the West Coast. It's worth every effort.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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E. C. Joe!!
Kris, blast from the past!
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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I know it is a long shot but does anybody have a PDF of the newer but out of print guide they would be willing to share?
Pretty please
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2015 - 03:52pm PT
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Thanks fellas. We had a great trip. Ended up just going to Dome Rock. A fantastic little route. Just what we were looking for.
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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So where's the TR??? :-)
(I loved The Tree Route btw)
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