Dempster Highway...beta research (OT)

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 53 of total 53 in this topic
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab or In What Time Zone Am I?
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 27, 2015 - 11:36am PT
Moving from our long to our short bucket list is a Dempster Highway road trip. We've got the lifted rig with 35 inch tires; and added additional modifications (compressor, winch, front lockers etc). Now looking for some real info besides all the internet drivel about "the road trip of a life time". Is it?
Ready to roll


Susan
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jun 27, 2015 - 12:47pm PT
I've only driven the Alaska and Cassiar myself ( a few times).. There are long portions of the Alaska Highway that are frankly boring. Very long portions..heh. Some shorter beautiful sections. The Cassiar cutoff is much more scenic than the AK section you miss by doing the Cassiar.

Just a guess having done no research is that the Dempster will be more like the AK highway.

What the hell though.. not many people do it..does go through/by some ranges so gotta be some cool places to see.

Your rig should be fine though..lol..as long as you don't run out of fuel and bug spray.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 27, 2015 - 12:56pm PT
I'll drive my Camry behind you to make sure you don't get into trouble!
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab or In What Time Zone Am I?
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2015 - 02:59pm PT
Thank you Climbski. We've done the AlCan and Cassair (lot of bears on that one) and we've driven by the start of the Dempster outside Dawson but now deciding on if it is worth the time and required extra gear (gas, tires, etc). But I really do want to see this:


Jay, you know there is room in the truck for you!


Susan
alannamal

climber
B.C.
Jun 27, 2015 - 04:02pm PT
We did it with just a regular old 1996 Tacoma, no problems. I think the road has a worse reputation than it deserves. Big ole rainbow appeared over the sign when we arrived. Felt like we were in the right place!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 27, 2015 - 09:09pm PT
I've done it roundtrip driving my own car, and I think another time or two in other cars. You've got plenty of rig there. In the 90s the length and the dust behind the logging trucks was the worst of drive. I assume the Canadians have denuded their forests enough that, that's not a worry now. I moved down to Seattle from Fairbanks in mid- to late-December '92 in a 1986 2WD Mazda PU. The winter trip was far preferable to the spring drive-up 'cause there was no dust. [edit]

I can't imagine needing 4- or all-wheel drive, but given even now gas prices on that road: take a high clearance high MPG as possible vehicle.
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Jun 27, 2015 - 10:06pm PT
Get your motor runnin'
Head out on the highway
Looking for adventure
In whatever comes our way...

Have fun!
grover

climber
Castlegar BC
Jun 27, 2015 - 10:26pm PT
Did it in a 1971 VW bus, with 2 buddies in 95.
Only went as far as the Tombstones.

You'll be fine in that rig.

Watch out for grizzlies up there.

Have fun!
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab or In What Time Zone Am I?
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2015 - 08:19pm PT
Thanks all for the beta.
It's looking like it's fitting into the must do.


Susan
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 1, 2015 - 09:04pm PT
Bump and: I'm dope. I did in fact drive the Dempster only once and didn't drive down from Fairbanks via the Dempster in December (tough to do).

It was awesome. We were on our way to put in on an unsupported kyak trip down to the Beaufort and then up the Babbage. We had to wait at some N Yukon road house for an ice dam to melt to cross the Peel by ferry in June.

added in edit

On the Dempster



Starting to head up the Babbage

More photos at:

http://173.160.158.251/postings/1983_Babbage/
mikegrai

climber
ON
Jul 2, 2015 - 07:00am PT
We did it about 15 years ago in a rental Ford Windstar minivan with 3 kids in tow. The only modification made was plexiglass shields for the headlights. So, yes, you have plenty of rig. No problems, a great drive - go for it!
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Jul 2, 2015 - 07:08am PT
Nice truck Susan!
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab or In What Time Zone Am I?
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2015 - 08:47am PT
No thank you to an Ice Road trip. Do enough of that skiing. Well when there used to be a winter!
Nice idea for the headlamps. Although it could stay daylight really late since we'd do it in summer.

Darwin.... Now that is KAYAKING! What an f'ing trip. The real deal.

Yes we're happy with the truck. Kinda stumbled on it then added a few goodies. We need more practice on moderate 4wheelin...well at least me...I get absolutely terrified of what I can't see so I'm quick to jump out and be the spotter.

Susan

Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 2, 2015 - 09:50am PT
Darwin, I like your old pics.

Susan, that truck looks great for a road trip I have always wanted to do. Actually two trips, both in Idaho. One is the Magruder corridor, a dirt track between the two biggest wilderness areas in the lower 48, and the Lolo Trail, that tries to follow Lewis and Clark's passage across the divide from Montana to the Clearwater. Check them out.
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
Jul 2, 2015 - 11:50am PT
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
Jul 2, 2015 - 11:54am PT
What month are you going in? The only reason you might need 4X4 is if it rains a lot. I found very little of the road boring. June & July are probably the best for flowers, August is when they get most of their rain.
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Jul 2, 2015 - 04:20pm PT
What were the Tombstones like? I saw the Ogilvie Mts from the Dawson Fire lookout--Tombstone looked huge from there.
TomKimbrough

Social climber
Salt Lake City
Jul 2, 2015 - 09:06pm PT
Read "The Lost Patrol".
It is about the route before the road went in.
Dempster is the guy who went looking for the Lost Patrol.
grover

climber
Castlegar BC
Jul 5, 2015 - 10:18pm PT
What were the Tombstones like?

A lot of the faces looked pretty chossy, so we stuck
mostly to ridges.

Pretty cool history about the Tombstones, how most of the (easy)
peaks were bagged by prospectors bitd.

This thread has me missing the north and the cool folks up there.


Susan I sure hope you post up a TR.
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2017 - 08:25am PT
Well it's taken a couple years to finally get it together but in a few days we are off.
We all know this scenario:

We expect the round trip to be about 8,000 miles. Heading north to the Bugs, Jasper then on up to the Dempster. On to Inuvik where we'll charter a plane or boat to toe tip in the Arctic.
Return via Alaska, with stops in Talkeetna, Homer, Valdez. Then on down through BC with several stops there to update our beta on harbors since we'll likely sail up this way again next year. Our routine seems to be even years are big sailing years, odd years, landlubbing.

Extra fuel is essential. Mike finalizing the racks for fuel cans. Extra tires are important too. We'll have two spares plus a heavy duty tire repair kit.

I'll try to do a "live reporting" trip report as we go along but some of our tracks will be "way out there". We do carry a satellite phone also.


Time to hit the road!

Susan
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
Jun 23, 2017 - 02:24pm PT
Best to you!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Jun 23, 2017 - 05:05pm PT
Awesome guys!!! Come visit us in Squamish!!!
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2017 - 07:51pm PT
Thank you Mike...when we are in that area we'll give you a call.
Thanks Tami!

Well we're off...if we go everywhere we expect it'll be about an 8500 mile road trip.
Taking to the back roads of the Yukon and Northwest Territory....and toe dipping in the Arctic!



Susan
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jun 25, 2017 - 08:48pm PT
Hi Susan

Are you passing through Seattle on your way north or south?
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2017 - 08:51pm PT
South, on return.


Susan
Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
Jun 26, 2017 - 06:45am PT
Please post up pics and stories, this sounds too cool for school! Also, best of luck to you on your adventures.
cheers
Happy Cowboy

Social climber
Boz MT
Jun 26, 2017 - 06:54am PT
Yea, Susan and Michael. Glad to hear planning has turned towards travel!
If passing thru the Gallatin valley you're welcome for a visit or an easy pull-in night. I recall you enjoy the place from past posts. We're south of town towards near Hyalite. If traveling the Gallatin canyon, call ahead and I could direct you to the scenic short-cut...we've not met but envy your travel plans. Regardless, safe and rewarding travel
Best, Donnie Black@ 406-586-7853 or 571-2571 or blackwerk7atgmail
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jun 26, 2017 - 11:14am PT
South, on return.

Give me a little warning, and there'll be a Seattle Supertopo event for you.
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2017 - 09:44am PT
Wow thanks everyone for the invites.
We are departing Cranbook for the Bugaboos this morning
Canadian customs were very friendly. Didn't have to unload a thing this trip

Our last American meal was at this awesome cafe in Eureka. Tons of folks headed south on road bike trips.


Off to Bugs then the Icefields ParkwAy. We've done 1000 miles with 7K to go.
Fingers crossed all goes well!

Susan and Mike
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2017 - 04:52pm PT
Making progress. Camping in Jasper tonight.
The Bugaboos were that BUGGY!








Susan
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2017 - 10:40am PT
Today is the day! We start up The Dempster.
The road is in "fair" condition and supposedly an aggressive bear between 200 and 240 kilometers.
We've just hit 3000 miles getting here to Dawson City.
We found out that by next spring they'll have extended the road to Tuktoyatuk which will take you right to the Arctic Ocean. Well we'll have missed it by a year so this trip will be a plane from Inuvik to the Arctic. It means a lot to Michael since he's been to the Antarctic Ocean and now the Arctic.
Twenty four hour days have started in earnest.

Time to roll!

Susan.
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2017 - 01:35pm PT


Susan
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 6, 2017 - 02:23pm PT
I was just going to ask how that field research was going.

Weather underground said it was 117° here yesterday, I think they exaggerate, but it was hot!

Oscar says "rawr"!
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Jul 6, 2017 - 04:29pm PT
Cool beans Susan! Best of luck to you and keep on posting up!
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Jul 6, 2017 - 05:02pm PT
Such a cool trip you both are doing, Susan!

Hoping you post some pics of a swim in the Arctic Ocean.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Jul 6, 2017 - 06:12pm PT
What a fantastic journey and a great thread. Looking forward to more action shots. Thanks for letting us piggy-back. Have a super rad trip!

Scott
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jul 6, 2017 - 07:49pm PT

I hope you all get to see the Northern Lights while you're up there!!!
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2017 - 04:40pm PT

Something happen in Poker Creek since we last came through in 2011

2011 population


2017

First view of the Alaska Range today.
Off to Valdez, but first a stop in

Saying Goodbye to Tok

Susan
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jul 9, 2017 - 07:07pm PT

Susan
Are you going to Sarah Palin????

(god, I hope knot).
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jul 9, 2017 - 10:33pm PT
This entire road is on Google Street View...
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2017 - 11:17pm PT
^^^^. Are you shitting me?

View from our Valdez camp site.


Keystone Canyon coming into Valdez


Susan
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2017 - 07:35pm PT
Midnight in Valdez, AK


Susan
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2017 - 10:40am PT
About half way. Somewhere near Seward.


A Puffin in Valdez


Now onward to Talkeetna and Denali


Moving on

Susan.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 15, 2017 - 03:41am PT
So, you getting that beta pretty dialed for this route?
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Jul 15, 2017 - 03:40pm PT
If you can somehow make it to Kaktovik, it is only a flat two day hike across the coastal plain to the Jago River valley, which is one of the most beautiful places that I have ever been, along with the Aichilik, but that one requires a short bush flight.
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2017 - 07:17pm PT
Made it up and back


Half way

Part way at Eagle Plain. One of two places to get fuel on a 400 mile stretch of dirt road.


Made it back to the start

susan

SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2017 - 08:01pm PT
^^^^^^. 25.2. BAD. I was living in net hats, bug gaiters, you name it.

Then the BC fires and smoke were pretty intense.

But on the road, you can't beat it!, eh? (We practiced that a lot)


Susan

Edit: the whole 150 years of Canada has been awesome! Free park entrance and all the celebratory specials!
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2017 - 08:07pm PT
^^^^. Yeah. That's a problem. 24 hours of daylight.

So we are now contemplating a winter trek of the Dempster or the Dalton. Then we'll get those pesky lights!


Susan
grover

climber
Castlegar BC
Jul 23, 2017 - 08:09pm PT
You made it!

Congrats ya'll!




Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jul 25, 2017 - 12:37pm PT
Just got back from the Tombstones, bugs not bad at all :o


SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2017 - 12:59pm PT
Oh! Tombstones were beautiful!


How do you get to them?

I'm glad you did okay with the bugs. I think I'm a bug magnet!

Susan
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jul 25, 2017 - 01:03pm PT
We flew to Whitehorse, drove a friend's CRV from there, then did a 3-day hike.

There was frost one night, and wind most days. I heard the bugs were worse further north on the open tundra; less wind.
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
Jul 25, 2017 - 04:23pm PT
Looks like you have had a great trip. You are making me want to go back.
Messages 1 - 53 of total 53 in this topic
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta