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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jun 24, 2015 - 06:02pm PT
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It is the best photo ever- in 1977 I was in the Tetons when someone looked around to see who was listening and then he whispered that the Nose............" got done in a day"
we were all scandalized
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fosburg
climber
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Jun 24, 2015 - 09:03pm PT
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Anyone know which party did the 2nd NIAD?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 24, 2015 - 09:16pm PT
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Hans' page has this timeline, but he does not state the 1978 climb was the second NIAD:
1975 - the FIRST one day ascent was made, took just under 15 hours.(Billy Westbay, Jim Bridwell, and John Long) Did you know that Peter Metcalf and partner were on the route the day they did it?
1978 - The route was climbed by Mike Lechlinski and John Bachar in 15 hours
http://www.speedclimb.com/yosemite/thenose.htm#98
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jun 25, 2015 - 04:30am PT
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Hey Kevin, fixing to Sickle sounds right. As far as I remember, just about everyone fixed something on El Cap. Still very cool to think about those one-off moments that marked the changes in Valley climbing. Good thing that Jim didn't make us wear those kind of clothes on regular days.
BTW, I like your age math. I am getting my Medicare card in a few days. I like the prospect of slicing 15 yaers off. Now that I know how it works, I am stretching my Valley days to include those being pushed in a stroller.
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fosburg
climber
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Jun 25, 2015 - 06:59am PT
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It'd be interesting to know for sure whether or not they were fixed to Sickle Ledge on that ascent.
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Anguish
Mountain climber
Jackson Hole Wyo.
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Jun 25, 2015 - 08:12am PT
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I took the action photo above with Peter's Rollei that we agreed to share. There were two frames of this view, this one focused on Largo.
Peter — of Black Diamond — some time ago loaned the slides to a friend who was touring a show about free climbing. As I recall the slides were essentially "lost" in this slide-show carousel for (perhaps) a couple of decades before Peter got them back.
After Largo arrived on Dolt Tower, (where this photo was taken) Peter might have taken a couple more shots of Largo leading on. But last time we talked he hadn't been able to locate those, if they actually exist.
So right now there's essentially only one action shot of NIAD — plus the classic meadows pic.
Largo would know whether the team fixed pieces or ropes to Sickle, but I think they climbed from the bottom without jugging.
It was an impressive, although fleeting, sight to see the boys go by.
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fosburg
climber
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Jun 25, 2015 - 04:54pm PT
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So it seems Largo would have the answer to the fixed rope question...
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 25, 2015 - 05:31pm PT
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Largo would know whether the team fixed pieces or ropes to Sickle
They had pieces fixed to sickle ....
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fosburg
climber
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Jun 25, 2015 - 07:20pm PT
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Pieces of rope?
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Jun 25, 2015 - 07:26pm PT
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If you want to get down to the real nitty gritty:
What brand of cigs were they tokin'?
Did Largo really give the glove to Michael Jackson?
Is Westbay packin'?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Jun 25, 2015 - 08:32pm PT
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Okay K.Warbler and thanks; let me try some adjustments. Don't have a high res file though. I am down to the laptop as well these days as I travel.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Aug 29, 2015 - 11:35am PT
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- Cigs
I'm gonna say Camel non filter, because thats what Bridwell smoked
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Aug 29, 2015 - 02:08pm PT
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I'm gonna say Camel non filter, because that's what Bridwell smoked
Yes. Very likely. You lick the paper a bit, and they stick to your lip. Leaves both hands free. Makes it very easy to climb the Nose in a day - - - jug, belay, and lead the Stovelegs without placing any gear.
I don't believe there is any valid copyright on that NIAD photo, btw. I could be wrong, I'm no expert.
Back then, if you didn't explicitly mark your work as Copyrighted, or use the © symbol, there was no valid copyright. If it was displayed to the public without the marking, it would fall into the Public Domain. The original print of Night of the Living Dead famously suffered from this legal doctrine when the distributor redid the credits at the beginning, "accidentally" omitted the ©, and George Romero lost all copyrights to his fine film, which went on to gross millions in the theaters.
Today, the instant a work of creativity is produced, the copyright exist. If you want to successfully sue in Federal court for infringement, you should pay a $30 filing fee (or whatever it is now) and include a copy of your work, to be filed in perpetuity with the Library of Congress. Very simple. Patents, not so much.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Aug 29, 2015 - 04:48pm PT
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this any better?
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MikeL
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 29, 2015 - 05:04pm PT
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Camels had filters? Wimps.
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cuvvy
Sport climber
arkansas
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Aug 29, 2015 - 06:00pm PT
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Must have been an impressive time.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Aug 29, 2015 - 06:35pm PT
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Hey!! I spent a season with the Norwegian contingent in Yosemite! 1980
Bjorn Myerlund, Kirsti Nordhaug, and the tall blonde dudes name escapes me right now.
What a fun crew that was!
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imaserious
Big Wall climber
melbourne
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Aug 29, 2015 - 10:04pm PT
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PLEASE BUY THE KIM CARRIGAN BOOK WHEN IT COMES OUT !!!!
KIM DID THE 2ND ASCENT OF POW ...
AND SHOWED YOU YANKS HOW TO CLIMB THE ROOF ON THE ROSTRUM ...
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Oct 24, 2015 - 11:45am PT
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Oct 25, 2015 - 01:45am PT
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Survival wrote:
Hey!! I spent a season with the Norwegian contingent in Yosemite! 1980
Bjorn Myerlund, Kirsti Nordhaug, and the tall blonde dudes name escapes me right now.
What a fun crew that was!
Hi Survival:
Tell us some stories, we're eager to know, facts as myths. Does there exist any photos?
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