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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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hey micronut - your first pic there - did you to the right side start of the west face? I don't remember climbing a corner like that.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2015 - 12:37pm PT
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Splitclimber,
We started hereBut I think the current supertaco guidebook says not to go that way.
Do most people start here?
Our corner was really nice and fairly steep and the most technical climbing on the route for three pitches. What is the other start around to the left like?
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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thx. yeah, the right side looked really good, but then you don't get to do this nice exposed knife-edge section ;)
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Maeday
Trad climber
San Francisco
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We are planning to do the southwest face.... any of you guys do that one? Plan is to hike in and stay at young lake. west ridge one day, then 2nd day the sw face. which i hear is pretty burly
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Maeday
Trad climber
San Francisco
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knifey version reminds me of matthes crest
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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sw face is awesome! and a bit burly. The west ridge is great too, but don't blow your wad!
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Maeday
Trad climber
San Francisco
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blow your wad? what does that mean? some climbing lingo???
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2015 - 02:37pm PT
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Mae he means The West Ridge can be a fairly long day, and not to tire yourself out doing that the day before if The Harding Route really is on your list.
From Upper Young Lake, plan for at least 1 hr of travel over to the base of the West Ridge. It took us about 2 1/2-3hrs to get from the summit of Conness back to our camp at the lake. And we pretty much strolled without much stopping.
By the way, though the term "shoot your wad"...or "blow your wad" is often nowadays referring to a dirty slang usage, the phrase has a very long history covering most of the time that muskets have been in use up to the present. The wad is a piece of paper put in the muzzle along with the projectile and gun powder. If the shooter is too hasty -- say in a tense battle -- they may not include the projectile. The result is a fire without the intended bullet; only the wad will fly out...a wasted shot. Hence, "shooting your wad" can mean expending your energy too soon or fruitlessly.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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I love you scott
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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Couple weeks ago.
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Urizen
Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
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Etymologically, micronut gives it to us lock, stock, and barrel; the current slang usage may just be a flash in the pan.
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Maeday
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Thanks for the wad beta. Next question... Elena avatar? I'm a super taco noob obviously.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Full conditions micronut . . . full conditions.
Get after it!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2015 - 09:25am PT
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If you move consistently, pitching it out isn't too bad. We pitched the entire thing and were right at 5 hrs, with a 30 min mid ridge-line lunch.
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Maeday
Trad climber
San Francisco
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yeah, saw the trip report. pretty cool. probably pitch it out with minimal pieces. keep transitions quick:)
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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"The wad is a piece of paper put in the muzzle along with the projectile and gun powder. If the shooter is too hasty -- say in a tense battle -- they may not include the projectile. The result is a fire without the intended bullet; only the wad will fly out...a wasted shot. Hence, "shooting your wad" can mean expending your energy too soon or fruitlessly."
This is exactly what happened in The Last Samarai to the governmental troops. They weren't ready. They blew their wads. As a result the Samurai under Kotosmoto were victorious and Captn Algren was taken prisoner.
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Maeday
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Haha, no I will lead all of the W Ridge. Then for SW, lead the last four or five pitches. Who is ELENA???
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2015 - 06:40pm PT
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Thanks Cragman.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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One of my most memorable days in the mountains was soloing the North Ridge, then descending to the base of the West Ridge and soloing it the same day.
Well, I felt like a hardman that day....
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