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North
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 18, 2015 - 09:38pm PT
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Is a four wheel drive mandatory to climb at Shuteye, or can a 2WD access plenty of good spots? The guide is a bit ambiguous on this point. Thanks for any help.
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vlani
Trad climber
mountain view, ca
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May 18, 2015 - 11:46pm PT
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You can always walk.
Were the guide says you need a 4wd - you usually need something like a tank really. Looks like those roads were washed off a bit.
Other places need high clearance, not 4wd, unless the road is maintained. Count on extra mile hike with normal car on most approaches.
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T$$$
climber
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May 19, 2015 - 07:38am PT
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You would be pretty limited with a 2wd car. For example, the road into Shangrila is a road described as ok for sturdy 2wd cars in the guide book. It would very likely shut down most 2wd cars and would probably be stressful in a few spots with a sturdy 2wd, like a 2wd truck, etc. We were driving carefully and paying attention in a few sections with a 4x4 truck.
Further up the same road becomes a "4wd" road, and we bailed on that. Stock 4x4 truck would have gotten banged up.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 19, 2015 - 08:18am PT
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My two wheel drive, low clearance family van, has made it to the base of Grey Eagle, The Balls, Lost Eagle, Chiquito etc. That is a life times worth of climbing right there. Just drive slow through any rough spots and don't get caught in the rain if you have to go up any steep hills (like Grey Eagle). Have fun and good luck.
-Eric Gabel
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 19, 2015 - 08:22am PT
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2wd
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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May 19, 2015 - 08:40am PT
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I once drove a girlfriend's volvo 2wd car up to Shangrila. The car made it no problem...The relationship, not so much.
+1 to what ablegable said about steep muddy roads up there in the rain.
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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May 19, 2015 - 08:48am PT
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I'm heading up there Jun 7-10 and planning on camping at friend rock. Think a stock taco 4x would get there without body damage?
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T$$$
climber
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May 19, 2015 - 08:53am PT
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We had stock 4wd Taco and opted to stay at 2wd Camp...maybe we're just wimps. I'd say park at 2wd Camp and walk up to Friend Rock and check out the road to see what you think - Friend Rock is literally a minute away walking from 2wd Camp.
Edit to add: This was just a few weeks ago. Maybe the road was better in the past? If people are getting standard 2wd cars up to Friend Rock with the road the way it was when we were there, I'm impressed and we must really suck at driving. There is a rough patch immediately after 2wd Camp.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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May 19, 2015 - 08:54am PT
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Killer - read my above statement with the added bit of info - i made it with no body damage.
A stock 4x4 taco can go almost anywhere if you can drive it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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May 19, 2015 - 08:54am PT
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The relationship, not so much.
funny how girls aren't big fans of taking their vehicles up bumpy roads.... Lol
Killer K you should be fine. We took thisjustin's taco up there no problem. Might have had a few extra scratches on the paint tho. Lol
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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May 19, 2015 - 08:56am PT
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The car made it no problem...The relationship, not so much.
ah yes... but look where you are now.
SARDINES!!!!!
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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May 19, 2015 - 09:18am PT
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I can deal with paint scratches. Thanks for the info!
Stoked! Shuteye looks sooo good!
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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May 19, 2015 - 09:38am PT
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Worst I've done up there is the usual offroad vehicular "pin-striping" and taken out a mirror which was probably my bad playing speed racer on an ancient logging road.
Doug - Word!
Have fun and if you go up to Grey please do a complete ascent of Physics of Death. I don't think anyone has done both pitches yet.
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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May 19, 2015 - 02:18pm PT
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Heading up to 2WD camp this weekend - first time at Shuteye! Standby for the full report. I'm car pooling in a 4 runner this trip...
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 19, 2015 - 04:39pm PT
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Get your hands on the OHV maps.... if you only have the standard USFS map, the numbers of all the dirt roads will not match the GB names, numbers.
I found this out the hard way last year....
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cat t.
Sport climber
CA
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May 19, 2015 - 04:57pm PT
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Don't listen to fivethirty; you have to cross a raging river, launch over a gaping crevasse, and the minivan was almost eaten by lions and dragons. No car can successfully make the trek and no one should go there. ;)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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May 19, 2015 - 05:20pm PT
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Owners of brand new vehicles often turn back and park well before 2wd camp. :)
btw, I think the OP is asking about the ridge proper (not really Grey Eagle, etc.. The ridge is commonly understood to mean parking at the 2wd camp/queens throne/dreamscape parking, or continuing 4wd from there to friend camp or further out the ridge (allegedly for realz 4wd) to get to the look out and places like that.
However, there are other ways to access the climbing areas on the ridge proper, but you have to want to hike a bit uphill and know which climb you want to hit.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 19, 2015 - 06:57pm PT
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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May 19, 2015 - 06:58pm PT
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I miss seeing those rigs around at all the best playgrounds ED!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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May 19, 2015 - 07:31pm PT
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Ha Jeremy, as long as that eclipse didn't start bleeding we were good. Should have tried to make it to friend rock, then burned it down once it was high centered.
A stock 4wd will get you everywhere. I've taken mine up to the lookout, but it was scrapping. Killer k you can make Friend Rock camp no problem, Tacoma's 4L are incredible.
To the op, if you are worried about the roads, maybe avoid High Eagle/Queen's Throne area. It is the bumpiest, but so much good climbing up in that area in relatively easy approaches. What type of climbing are you looking for? Long routes? Single pitch, or bouldering? Or the best answer all of the above?
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North
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2015 - 07:56pm PT
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Thanks to everyone for the replies. Looking for both cracks and sport. Also, driving a Sprinter with petty fair clearance. That rascal managed to get us up to the House Range if anyone's been there. Not afraid to walk tho.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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May 19, 2015 - 08:16pm PT
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You can make it up to Dreamscape/Queen's Throne in the sprinter no problem. Shuteye doesn't have a ton of pure cracks, meaning you don't need doubles or triples on most of them. Bring slings for knob tie offs. And beer. You are gunna love it, have fun.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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May 19, 2015 - 09:04pm PT
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Man,
Everyone gripes about the roads. I rocked up to Big Sleep today. Never put it in 4x4 and rarely had to go less than 30 MPH. I checked out Big Sleep, Voodoo and Crocodile. Too bad about the hours long approaches, mossiness and chossy nature of things. There was even another car at the end of the road and I think I heard yapping. Besides, North Fork is no fun and I didn't party till 3:30 at the local bar with fun and funny folks. Yup, nothing to see.
There's a Ross Creek near here. Any connection to our illustrious host?
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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May 19, 2015 - 09:05pm PT
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rumor on the streets is this would be a great place for a SushiFest. If only....
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 19, 2015 - 10:32pm PT
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it would be a truly AWESOME venue for a SushiFest!
Another Cali venue possibility: the Strawbillies would love to see you in their neck of the woods...
no end to it, nature...
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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May 20, 2015 - 06:10am PT
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Besides, North Fork is no fun and I didn't party till 3:30 at the local bar with fun and funny folks. Yup, nothing to see.
Dude you closed down the Buckhorn and didn't get stabbed? Impressive. No relation to Jesse Ross. I'll shoot you a text later, the taco pm is sh#t.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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May 20, 2015 - 06:32am PT
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Hey I'm jealous.
But have fun, Hardman!
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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May 20, 2015 - 11:30am PT
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Ahh yes North Fork. There's a local LEO that really loves the town...He looks to have a home made billy club.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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May 20, 2015 - 11:11pm PT
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Lollity boys,
The party is happening now. Avo's, Roma and Sourdough on Bandit Saloonery. More soon come.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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May 25, 2015 - 06:43pm PT
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Some photos from Big Sleep camp - Memorial Day weekend.
Rain off & on Saturday. Check out the home built "mobile home" on a trailer hitch. Apparently there was an SCMA-sponsored outing.
Joey slack lining with Sierra Nevada Pale Ale
Sunset light on Big Sleep Saturday. Despite rain, note climber rope-soloing near the top of Afternoon Nap. Photo taken ~ 5 pm
Sunday was spectacular weather. Went over to Milky Way wall and did Crossing the Milky Way. Excellent 4 pitch 5.8, especially the p2 dihedral and the p4 Knob Gobbler pitches. We had the place to ourselves.
Some of the classiest cairns anywhere...
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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May 25, 2015 - 07:53pm PT
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That must be flip flop's gypsy wagon!
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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May 26, 2015 - 03:53pm PT
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My friend took his AWD Toyota Sienna van to 2WD camp. He stopped and did some road repair on the way up (filled in some ruts at 2 places to get through). Bring a pick and shovel and help your fellow low clearance climbers...
It was my first trip to Shuteye, and I was surprised how rough the road was - there is even a stream crossing. 2WD camp is about 15 miles(?) from the paved road, and it took us about 35-45 mins in a 4 runner. We saw a Passat, Matrix, and Mazda 3 parked about 1/2 mile down the road from 2WD camp.
Awesome place - loved the golden granite, views of the Sierra crest, and the back country vibe - wow - can't wait to go back. Dreamscape has 5 star scenic approach, and climbs to match.
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Sean Sullivan
Sport climber
SLO
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Oct 26, 2015 - 07:19am PT
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If heading to the big sleep area, bring a dirt bike or a chainsaw with you because there is a 100ft tall 6ft wide tree fallen across the road at road 7S02H. (its 20ft before the turn). It has been down for less than a week. You can get around it, lots of people are. But we chose not to destroy earth anymore and hiked in from there. It wasnt bad at all.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Oct 27, 2015 - 10:58pm PT
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Good lookin out. Is that tree on the Brown's Meadow approach?
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