7.9 Earthquake in Kathmandu

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Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 25, 2015 - 12:53am PT
Many brick buildings including centuries old temples have been toppled. Many injured, but the number of dead is still unknown. It was felt as far away as New Delhi.

http://www.nytimes.com/aponline/2015/04/25/world/asia/ap-as-nepal-earthquake.html?hp&action=click&pgtype=Homepage&module=second-column-region®ion=top-news&WT.nav=top-news
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2015 - 12:58am PT
Live Updates from explorersweb.com

Everest Southside Avalanche:
Romanian climber Alex Gavan tweeted about a huge avalanche coming down Pumori and reaching Everest southside BC. "Running for life from my tent. Unhurt. Many many people up the mountain," the message says it all. Not everything is smooth in the area.

IMG Team reported that all climbers and Sherpa from the group are safe.


"Strong aftershocks continuing here on North Side of #Everest," says Adrian.


Sherpa families are also reporting damage in Khumbu area.


Climbers are reported as missing on Everest Southside as a "Mid Camp" was swept away. Ivan Braun says, a rescue mission has been launched.

Avalanches and rockfalls, but Marco and team are also safe at Dhaulagiri BC.


http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?url=nepal-earthquake-updates-mountains-tremb_142994596
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2015 - 01:41am PT
Dhaulagiri base camp is devastated"

Everest Avalanche Cloud reaches Base Camp

Eric Arnold describers the earthquake scene at Everest BC in his blog post.

When I opened my tent zipper I see three sides gigantic avalanches come down. Behind me from the Lingtren from the icefall and Pumori. The avalanche from the Icefall-Nuptse is gigantic. Not much later I realize that the cloud base camp is going to hit. My ears are filled to the brim with snow. In five seconds, I look like the abominable snowman.


neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 25, 2015 - 01:42am PT
hey there say, jan...

oh my, :O

i just HEARD THIS... oh my...

was coming over to post, and NOW, you are here...

THANK YOU so much for getting this on...

prayers for these folks...oh my... :(
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2015 - 01:48am PT
I'm afraid that I am going to know some of the casualties. Another Black Year on Everest and now all of Nepal.
Mark Rodell

Trad climber
Bangkok
Apr 25, 2015 - 02:06am PT
I am concerned for everyone in Nepal. The buildings are not able to hold against such a shake. I worry for those in the mountains. I have written a few friends who live there but not answers yet.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 25, 2015 - 02:06am PT
hey there say, dear dear jan... i highly DID suspect this... for you and all my climber-family-taco-friends, you are in my prayers and in my heart tonight and for all those local folks that live in these areas...

oh my... :( very sad...

i was so concerned about the folks near the volcano, and then,
now this... this has caused some far worse things, at this moment...

thankfully the volcano has not done more...

love to you, dear jan, and for you friends, this night...
(day, there)...

and to you, mark...

my friend, is letting me hear update, from her tv, now...
and i have seen a few reports from internet...

prayers for all the locals, in the awful thing...
and friends and loved one... and climbers, on everest's areas...
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 25, 2015 - 02:11am PT
hey there say...
jan, and all...

here is a life update...
has phone numbers, too, for various areas???

http://www.oneindia.com/new-delhi/strong-earthquake-felt-across-northern-india-april-25-2015-1727361.html


(one of these reports says it lasted TWO minutes) :O


yes, there are emergency phone numbers and
also, to the embassy...


also, minute by minute reports and NEEDED info, appears
to be on this page...


hope this helps some of you...



*said air india has stopped flights to nepal...

2.05 pm: Air India has cancelled all flights to Nepal. Nepal airport has been shut.

1.25 pm: Kathmandu airport has been shut down. All flights being diverted to India

Read more at: http://www.oneindia.com/new-delhi/strong-earthquake-felt-across-northern-india-april-25-2015-1727361.html

Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2015 - 02:12am PT
Thanks neebee. It's 3 am and I'm going to bed as tomorrow is going to be a long sad day.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 25, 2015 - 02:15am PT
hey there say, jan...

i love you... night now... :(
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 25, 2015 - 02:33am PT
The Tale of Two Towers

Wikipedia has not hesitated in updating their article on the Darahara Tower.

Two earthquakes prior to the one on the 25th of April, 2015, one in 1834 and another in 1934, claimed the original, then the other.

It was rebuilt following the 1934 shake, but this present-day quake took half of the tower. Several injuries resulted.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dharahara

Jan and Mark, here's hoping your fellows are safe and that emergency services prove adequate.

God bless the people of Nepal.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 25, 2015 - 02:45am PT
hey there say,... JUST in case any of you KNOW THIS MAN...

this was on the on-going update...

you may want to go read there:

3.00 pm: Indian mountaineer Arjun Vajpai stranded at Mt Makalu basecamp.

Read more at: http://www.oneindia.com/new-delhi/strong-earthquake-felt-across-northern-india-april-25-2015-1727361.html

edit:

greetings, this morning, to mouse...
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Apr 25, 2015 - 03:09am PT
2.18 pm: Everest camp 1 and 2 swept away by avalanche, many climbers missing from north and south side as per reports.

Read more at: http://www.oneindia.com/new-delhi/strong-earthquake-felt-across-northern-india-april-25-2015-1727361.html
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
Apr 25, 2015 - 03:58am PT
This is bad. I remember going around Kathmandu thinking that if they ever have a big earthquake most of those unreinforced brick buildings would go down.

7.9 is a huge quake.

They're going to need a lot of help.

Sorry to hear about this!
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Apr 25, 2015 - 05:31am PT
So sorry to hear this news.

I have a few friends who live over there.
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Apr 25, 2015 - 05:38am PT
LA Times has got a bunch of photos of totally collapsed multi story brick buildings. (I can't manage to post link). Looks bad.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Mexico City, D.F.
Apr 25, 2015 - 05:47am PT

CNN Video

Photos of wrecked buildings in Katmandu


Kathmandu, Nepal (CNN)A 7.8 magnitude earthquake centered less than 50 miles from Kathmandu rocked Nepal with devastating force early Saturday, killing at least 688 people -- and probably more -- in Nepal's capital city, authorities said.

Historic buildings in Kathmandu lay in rubble on the ground. The injured were being treated outside hospitals in chaotic scenes. Residents, terrorized by a seemingly endless series of aftershocks, huddled outdoors.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Apr 25, 2015 - 06:06am PT
Yikes. This is terrible news.
couchmaster

climber
Apr 25, 2015 - 06:38am PT

My best to all those affected. Has to be bad with the sh#t buildings they have over there. Looks like 8 are dead on Everest alone.

Wapost has:
"An official with Nepal’s mountaineering department, Gyanendra Shretha, said the bodies of eight people had been recovered and an unknown number remain missing or injured....."
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Apr 25, 2015 - 06:43am PT
Oh jeez..best wishes to a lot of people.. worried about some folks too.
zBrown

Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
Apr 25, 2015 - 06:46am PT
Ironic that the number of casualties is on the same order of magnitude as the recent boat capsize in Mediterranean.

Bldrjac

Ice climber
Boulder
Apr 25, 2015 - 06:59am PT
Is there much news from Makalu?
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Apr 25, 2015 - 07:00am PT
Alpine Ascents International reports their team is fine at Base and Camp 1 (Everest)

Becca Rick here. Reagan called and requested that I post a message on his behalf: The Alpine Ascents International Mt. Everest climbing team was in the icefall and is now safe at Camp 1, avoiding the avalanche that hit Base Camp due to an earthquake in Nepal near Kathmandu.
Please keep those affected in your thoughts as we continue to receive updated reports on the damage and losses in Nepal. I've tagged those I know in his group in an effort to provide their family and friends with an update that the team is OK.

Mountain Trip also reports good news with their team..

We received a report overnight that a large earthquake rocked the Everest Base Camp region. News outlets report the quake measured 7.8 and was centered about 50 miles from Kathmandu.
Jacob Schmitz called from Everest Base Camp and reports that our team of climbers and Sherpa are fine, although there are reports of a number of others who were not so fortunate. The quake triggered at least one massive avalanche that blasted BC with wind, ripping a large hole in our big dome tent and flattening many other tents.
Let's all keep the people affected by this terrible event in out thoughts and prayers while we wait to learn more.
Greg Barnes

climber
Apr 25, 2015 - 07:14am PT
Ironic that the number of casualties is on the same order of magnitude as the recent boat capsize in Mediterranean.
Those are just initial reports, this size earthquake in that area is probably going to lead to 10,000+ deaths. I hope I'm wrong...
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Apr 25, 2015 - 07:19am PT
http://www.nytimes.com/aponline/2015/04/25/world/asia/ap-as-nepal-earthquake.html?hp&action=click&pgtype=Homepage&module=second-column-region®ion=top-news&WT.nav=top-news

zBrown

Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
Apr 25, 2015 - 07:27am PT
I hope you're wrong too Greg.

So we don't lose track of who we're discussing here - refugees (from Crimpie's reference).



Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Apr 25, 2015 - 07:29am PT
And remember---aftershocks occur!
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Apr 25, 2015 - 07:32am PT

Terror and devastation. Rescue and recovery. Heal and rebuild.

Peace
norm larson

climber
wilson, wyoming
Apr 25, 2015 - 07:37am PT
Just heard on NPR that they report seventeen dead at Everest base camp. They did not mention anything about the north side base.
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
Apr 25, 2015 - 07:46am PT
Everest North reports everyone is safe. Climbers are stranded on several peaks as camps and routes like the Khumbu have been utterly destroyed. This is horribly tragic and an ongoing crisis. The death toll will likely never be known but it will be in the thousands. Ironic is not a word that comes to my mind.
crankster

Trad climber
Apr 25, 2015 - 08:01am PT
Awful news. Keeping good thoughts for everyone.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Apr 25, 2015 - 08:06am PT
Condolences and good luck to all those in the affected region. I would imagine a few stories will come of this.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Apr 25, 2015 - 08:07am PT
My sympathies to all involved. I remember repeatedly thinking "I really don't want to be here in an earthquake", when I first visited Kathmandu in 2005. There had just been a huge earthquake in the mountains of Pakastan, and Kathmandu with its thousands of multi-story red-brick buildings looked similar to photos I had seen of San Francisco before the 1906 earthquake.

climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Apr 25, 2015 - 08:08am PT
The news from Everest basecamp is going to be unbearable. Am hearing some very bad numbers and they are continuing to go up. 16+ 18..

Various reports about the icefall as it may/likely be impassable for those stuck in camp 1.

Makalu...no bad reports so far.. good news is no one hurt at basecamp https://twitter.com/search?q=makalu&src=typd

Cho Oyu is all good news so far

Anapurna ..all good news so far

Manaslu.. good so far
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Apr 25, 2015 - 09:46am PT
The Guardian is trying to keep up with the mountain regions.
http://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/apr/25/deadly-everest-avalanche-triggered-by-nepal-earthquake
Dan Mazur's OK but he's not sure about the rest of his party. Several other expeditions appear to also be separated.
It sounds pretty bad up in the peaks. The situation in the mountain valley villages won't be known for days.
I'd be surprised if Lukla airport will be open for fixed wing aircraft for a few days.

Looks like Twitter is your best communications if you've got friends up there.
(go figure!)
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Apr 25, 2015 - 11:01am PT
This seems to be the most current Twitter feed.
There's a photo of the avalanche approaching EBC.
https://twitter.com/hashtag/NepalQuake?src=hash

Oxfam is soliciting donations here
https://secure2.oxfamamerica.org/page/content/nepal_earthquake/
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Apr 25, 2015 - 11:05am PT
Wow my heart goes out to all those affected. It looks very bad. Thanks for the links HT crazy pictures.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 25, 2015 - 11:18am PT
The PDF below suggests Kathmandu is far enough away to avoid extensive building collapse (depending on how you define "extensive", say 50%).
But the closer settlements could be flattened.
http://reliefweb.int/sites/reliefweb.int/files/resources/Nepal_InitialSA_V1.pdf
[Edit:] The USGS map posted by tuolumnetradster below appears to be much more accurate.
Instead of just using distance from epicenter to judge damage, it uses a network of sensors.
Kathmandu is in a higher damage contour than Pokhara.
http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/eventpage/us20002926#general_summary
http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/eventpage/us20002926#impact_pager
The maps are under revision, so probably best to use a direct link.
stevep

Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
Apr 25, 2015 - 11:33am PT
Yeah, as bad as it sounds like in Kathmandu and Everest, the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna region looks closer to the epicenter. Pokhara could be in bad shape.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Apr 25, 2015 - 11:55am PT
Another very tough year and even though it's already a tragedy of enormous scope and consequence it does sound like it will be days, weeks or even months before the real toll is fully understood .
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Apr 25, 2015 - 12:37pm PT
Reports place the epicenter of the earthquake 80 Km NW of Kathmandu, so per the below map scale, the epicenter might be around 40 Km. from Pokara.

tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Apr 25, 2015 - 01:05pm PT
Modified Mercalli Intensity scale is a measure of earthquake effects in terms of
ground shaking intensity and impact on people, structures and the environment. XII
is the top of the scale, so VIII is significant.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercalli_intensity_scale

http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/eventpage/us20002926#general_map

Here's the updated MMI map from the USGS website...

Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2015 - 01:24pm PT
Facebook has set up a site for checking on friends and relatives. A few of my friends in Kathmandu and also from the mountains have checked in.

https://www.facebook.com/safetycheck/nepalearthquake/
MisterE

Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
Apr 25, 2015 - 01:33pm PT
Condolences to all affected by this disaster.

More images from CNN, including a basecamp shot?:

http://edition.cnn.com/2015/04/25/world/gallery/nepal-earthquake/index.html
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2015 - 01:37pm PT
Here's an amazing live video that will show you the strength of it and also how tsunamis happen.

(It seems you have to go to Facebook first and then type in the address).

https://www.facebook.com/amlesh.singh.796/videos/853787271361497/?fref=nf
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2015 - 02:11pm PT
I just rechecked google and found that several of my best friends have checked in as being safe, so I'm feeling a little better now.

https://www.facebook.com/safetycheck/nepalearthquake/
dave729

Trad climber
Western America
Apr 25, 2015 - 02:13pm PT
http://indiatoday.intoday.in/story/nepal-earthquake-triggers-everest-avalanche/1/432157.html





climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Apr 25, 2015 - 02:14pm PT
I think that was the bad one from last year even though that video was posted today.

Jan I am glad you are getting some good news.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2015 - 02:32pm PT
Thanks! Me too! My Sherpa friends here in Colorado don't have any more information than I do. We're all relying on Facebook and Google.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Apr 25, 2015 - 02:33pm PT
Jan: what are the legitimate agencies to send monetary donations that will help Nepalese people who have been impacted by this earthquake?
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Apr 25, 2015 - 02:35pm PT
Daniel Mazur is on the North side in China and posted on his Facebook page this morning that everyone over there is okay.


Mother Earth is upping the ante on her highpoint.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Apr 25, 2015 - 02:40pm PT
Mazur's Twitter feed shot this out this morning. Terrible. Wishing I was there to help somehow. I've been to Nepal three times in the past few years and have quite a connection to the place. We heard this morning that our good family friends in Kathmandu are safe but there are dark days ahead as the death toll rises.


Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2015 - 02:51pm PT
Tourists and Nepalese alike sleeping in the streets and parks together. Fortunately many of the tourists have tents with them. The water mains are broken so the next big problem is getting everyone enough water, then food.

As for donations, it might be best to wait for appeals from western agencies who will take the money directly there and supervise its distribution or friends going there to help directly. With no electricity, no electronic transfers.

The American government has pledged a preliminary 1 million dollars.
CCT

Trad climber
Apr 25, 2015 - 03:10pm PT
That Everest basecamp avalanche video posted above is the one from last year. Rock and Ice accidentally posted it briefly, then took it down within a few minutes.

This avalanche came down from a different location, to the left of the icefall.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Apr 25, 2015 - 03:25pm PT
Thanks Jan...that sounds like good advice.

Durbar Square
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Apr 25, 2015 - 03:27pm PT
A good friend and climbing partner is in the Everest Base Camp or at least in the Khumbu region and his family have not heard from him. His name is Chris Norwood from the San Diego area. If anyone has any info his family would really like to hear from him. Thanks.
dave729

Trad climber
Western America
Apr 25, 2015 - 03:31pm PT
I get it that the idea of building codes can't be implimented in poor
countries but not even trying is maddening. Bricks with no holes for rebar? Come on! The mortar looks to have peeled cleanly off. Zip adhension.

At least in Haiti they had rebar
in there buildings. In the wrong places for sure. The reinforced concrete roofs survived perfectly as they pancaked down squishing the occupants.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Apr 25, 2015 - 03:52pm PT
Dave 729, I thought that too, today. But then here in America we don't always "get" what true poverty is. I thought about our building codes, then I thought about places I've visited world wide. Families were happy to have 4 walls and a roof of any kind, forget water, keeping warm or staying cool. A home, food, water and clothing are not a given in many places on this planet.

A great organization to donate to is Samaritans Purse. You can google them. They will be there shortly to help out in this disaster.

Prayers from our community going out to all involved. Lynne
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Apr 25, 2015 - 03:53pm PT
I have no idea if Patan Hospital in Kathmandu suffered terrible damage,
but if you want to help, please send money to these folks who will
surely be ministering to the injured. . .


[url="//http://www.foph.org/helpus.html"]//http://www.foph.org/helpus.html[/url]
cali kat

climber
CA
Apr 25, 2015 - 04:08pm PT
A more positive note from Annapurna: https://www.rmiguides.com/blog/2015/04/25/rmi_guide_alex_barber_safe_at_annapurna_base_camp
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2015 - 04:12pm PT

The lights are solar, the only ones working



.

Google is donating one million dollars to the relief effort.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Apr 25, 2015 - 04:16pm PT
There are nameless dead and famous dead, yet each life is worth the same imho. Prayers to all loved ones, family and friends suffering from loss at this terrible time.
Mark Rodell

Trad climber
Bangkok
Apr 25, 2015 - 04:33pm PT
I have heard from a few friends. They and their families are safe. However, I still am waiting to hear from others. It is going to be a grim day
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Apr 25, 2015 - 04:37pm PT
Jim, if what you say is true, our country is in trouble. Somehow, tho, I think there are many quiet ones out there that are living simply, sharing what they have and bringing up their families to do likewise. We just don't hear about them all that much.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Apr 25, 2015 - 04:39pm PT
A part of me feels a little shallow for concentrating in my posts about climbers and the concerns about various mountaineering efforts.

But for me this is natural.. there may be people I know up there. With certainty there are friends of people I know up there.

I am well aware that each person lost is someone elses friend or loved one and each is a tragedy and shattering of someones world.

Such a terrible year in Nepal.. Last spring on Everest.. last fall/winter with the widespread avalanches.. now this

too much

Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2015 - 04:40pm PT
Agreed Lynne.

One of the problems with naming the dead in Nepal is the naming system itself. For example, Mingma Sherpas exist by the hundreds because Mingma is the day of the week they were born on. Even knowing their village doesn't always help as many Sherpas in every village were born on Monday. Among the Nepalese their birth order is often reflected in their names 1st 2nd 3rd etc. son or daughter - Saili, Maili, Kanchi etc. A different sense of group and individual than we have.

And like it or not, the rich and well known have access to more resources which can either be hoarded or put to good use as in the case of Google.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Apr 25, 2015 - 05:02pm PT
Jan, I think many of the men in Nepal are the "bread winners." Is there any relief system for widows and orphans?
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Apr 25, 2015 - 05:05pm PT
Yeah, as bad as it sounds like in Kathmandu and Everest, the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna region looks closer to the epicenter. Pokhara could be in bad shape.

stevep, I ran across this mention:

http://news.yahoo.com/quake-triggers-everest-avalanche-climbers-risk-094437928.html

Stan Adhikari, who runs the Mountain House lodge in Pokhara near the mountain range, said the city had escaped the worst of the damage. "There hasn't been much damage," Adhikari said.

He said there were about two dozen guests at his lodge, including people from Europe, the United States and China. The road from Pokhara to Kathmandu was not passable but he hoped it would open on Sunday.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2015 - 05:13pm PT
Lynne-

Unfortunately not unless they are killed during mountaineering. That means the Sherpas killed in the Khumbu icefall will get $15,000 but those in base camp nothing unless their friends fib for them. That's why western aid is so important.
Bluelens

climber
Pasadena, CA
Apr 25, 2015 - 05:24pm PT
Person Finder: 2015 Nepal Earthquake

I'm looking for someone I have information about someone
Currently tracking about 2300 records.
Search is available through SMS in India and the US. Text "search <name>" to +91-9773300000 in India or +1-650-800-3978 in the US.
PLEASE NOTE: All data entered will be available to the public and viewable and usable by anyone. Google does not review or verify the accuracy of this data.
About Google Person Finder · Developers · Terms of Service
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2015 - 05:42pm PT
I located several of my friends through Google's service. It works.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
Apr 25, 2015 - 06:05pm PT
Photo of Everest Base Camp

Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Apr 25, 2015 - 06:15pm PT
Tragic....dreams shattered as well as lives.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Mexico City, D.F.
Apr 25, 2015 - 07:25pm PT
"Latest reports suggest up to 70 UK climbers remain unaccounted for following the avalanche."

The Khumbu icefall route was wiped out, with all the fixed ropes and ladders. It seems that whoever is up there will be spending at least one night out. An estimated 800 people were at base camp, although that may include the people up on the mountain. Weather forecast is calling for heavy snow and -28C this week.

(of course the death toll in Kathmandu is much worse and I don't mean any disrespect by focusing on the foreign climbers)
tooth

Trad climber
B.C.
Apr 25, 2015 - 07:30pm PT
Dave. Haiti had very little to no rebar. I'm headed there this week to keep building an orphanage. With rebar this time.

Hope they can get a lot of people off the hill and unburied quick. Not good.




Edit. My dad is a structural engineer and does the plans for our construction down there. We use local labor to build, masons who are used to building their way, so I have become very familiar with what they want to do as they revert to their style when we turn our backs the last two years, and we have not found any smooth rebar for sale in the country now, nor have I seen any in the existing buildings. But they do like to throw the stuff in there randomly without tying it together in a grid. Or using enough. Or tying the rebar in the roof into the walls. Or using large enough diameter. Or using it in their foundations which consist of 8-12" rocks cobbled with concrete mix which is crap but saves money and time. As we were pulling teeth in buildings before the earthquake I would comment on all this, now we haven't don't anything but work on an orphanage construction project there for the last two years.
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Apr 25, 2015 - 07:38pm PT
Terrible events. Prayers for all.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 25, 2015 - 07:47pm PT
hey there say, tooth... prayers for your trip...
may the right stuff, happen, for the right times, etc...
and do as much good as possible...

and get back, safe, for your family, later...
zBrown

Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
Apr 25, 2015 - 08:09pm PT
Maps of epicenter and aftershocks

http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2015/04/25/world/asia/nepal-earthquake-maps.html

History of the region

http://www.nytimes.com/2015/04/26/science/ancient-collision-made-nepal-earthquake-inevitable-epochs-later.html?_r=0


More than 25 million years ago, India, once a separate island on a quickly sliding piece of the Earth’s crust, crashed into Asia. The two land masses are still colliding, pushed together at a speed of 1.5 to 2 inches a year. The forces have pushed up the highest mountains in the world, in the Himalayas, and have set off devastating earthquakes.

Experts had warned of the danger to the people of Katmandu for decades. The death toll in Nepal on Saturday was practically inevitable given the tectonics, the local geology that made the shaking worse and the lax construction of buildings that could not withstand the shaking.

Approximate epicenter and worst shaking on population density grid (2001).

p-owed

Trad climber
Ramona ca
Apr 25, 2015 - 08:22pm PT
re post from facebook
Mountain Guide
10 mins ·
20 CONFIRMED DEAD AT EVEREST BASECAMP, SEVENTEEN MORE CRITICALLY INJURED.
The morning after report from our partners at Mountain Trip:
"Jacob called in this morning from Everest Base Camp, we had a challenging time communicating with a poor satellite phone connection, but we were able to talk over the course of 3 phone calls. Things are happening at basecamp, starting at dawn, helicopters were able to begin evacuating the most critically injured from EBC as of now 7 evacuation flights have come in and out of EBC. There are 17 critically injured that the doctors and everyone at base camp watched over last night, and as weather has improved today they are hoping to be able to fly all out today. Over 20 people are reported dead at base camp currently with many more still missing. Teams at Camp 1 and Camp 2 seem to be OK, but anxious to get down to base camp. There have been only a couple of Sherpa who have descended through the icefall since the earthquake. There are many climbers missing still, and they expect to find more victims at basecamp and in the icefall before this is all through. The Sherpa who descended through the icefall were able to hear some voices of trapped climbers on their way down. Jacob and a guide from IMG (sorry I didn’t get the name due to bad reception) are going to attempt to go up into the icefall this morning to see if they can help anyone, and to assess what gear they may need to help establish a route for the more than 100 climbers who are above the icefall in Camp 1 and Camp 2. Jacob said that the “Icefall Doctors” have left the mountain, so the rescue is up to the remaining climbers."
In this photo provided by Azim Afif, a man approaches the scene after an avalanche triggered by a massive earthquake swept across Everest Base Camp, Nepal on Saturday, April 25, 2015. Afif and his team of four others from the Universiti Teknologi Malaysia (UTM) all survived the avalanche. (Azim Afif via AP)
Crazy Bat

Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
Apr 25, 2015 - 08:47pm PT
I know a world famous expert on building collapse. He noted that the rebar in the Hati buildings that failed during the earthquake was smooth metal. Because it was smooth it could slide out of the concrete, even if it was properly placed and wired together.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Apr 25, 2015 - 09:07pm PT
p-owed Thanks for filling us in. God or who ever any of you out there believe in, please make miracles for the people on the mountain.
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Apr 25, 2015 - 09:36pm PT
What a shocker when we heard about this at 5am this morning! My wife and eight year old son were supposed to leave for Katmandu from Vancouver this afternoon at 1pm. I'm very thankful they hadn't left a day or two earlier. My heart goes out to everyone there who's helping, mourning, and trying to keep on living.

K
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2015 - 09:39pm PT
Scrubber, That's what I call karma!

I'm impressed that the Nepalese government got helicopters to Everest Base Camp in the midst of so many other needs. Experienced Everest guide Willie Benegas was flown to Camp 1 with ice climbing equipment to aid people in finding a route back down the Khumbu icefall.

The doctor from Madison Mountaineering was one of those killed. Her name was Marisa Eve Girawong, from Britain.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 26, 2015 - 04:20am PT
hey there say, p-owed.. thanks for sharing the update ...


lynne... am with you in hoping for the miracles...
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 26, 2015 - 05:11am PT
hey there say, cragman... one of the climber guys on facebook, said, they are wondering about a climber-friend named chris...
though, he was in the khumbu area...

can they ask around?

will go look up his last name...

chris norwood...
Avery

climber
NZ
Apr 26, 2015 - 05:51am PT
My heart goes out to anyone affected by this tragedy.
I lived through a deadly 6.3 magnitude quake (only 6 kilometers deep) in Christchurch, NZ in February 2011. It killed 185 people. That was the worst day of my life.
I offer up my prayers for these people, for what it's worth. They need to find strength and hope from somewhere, in order to carry on with their shattered lives.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Apr 26, 2015 - 07:11am PT
I believe but won't swear to it that the majority of people at basecamp are Nepalese nationals.
Tobia

Social climber
Denial
Apr 26, 2015 - 09:35am PT
I pray for all the victims of this disaster, especially the locals and others who may not get aid soon enough.

After recently reading Into Thin Air, I can't imagine what anyone on that mountain is suffering, especially those above base camp.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Apr 26, 2015 - 10:20am PT
Update on the Everest rescues:

http://www.explorersweb.com/offsite/?source=http%3A%2F%2Fblogs.dw.de%2Fadventuresports%2F2015%2F04%2F26%2Frescue-runs-on-mount-everest%2F&lang=en
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Apr 26, 2015 - 10:45am PT
Alpenglow expeditions blog says that everyone in their team is safe, however there have been several deaths on the south side. I think they only have a team on the north side.

I'm trying to confirm if they have a team on the south side. I have a friend there now but not positive what side he is on and I'm pretty sure he is with alpenglow.

Condolences to all affected by the earthquake and avalanche.

Edit: Friend is safe.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Apr 26, 2015 - 11:47am PT
The avalanche that hit basecamp

Holy crap.. not something you want to be looking at coming at you.




http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2015/04/26/mount-everest-avalanche-photos_n_7146596.html
Crazy Bat

Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
Apr 26, 2015 - 12:12pm PT
Found a video of the avalanche.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JC_wIWUC2U&feature=youtu.be

Hit the mute button if you don't like the F word.
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Apr 26, 2015 - 01:30pm PT
Just received word that a very old friend of mine, Tom Taplin, was one of those killed at Everest BC.

He was there making a film documentary about the history of Everest BC.

This is inconceivable. This friend that I've known for 25+ years, who shared so much love of the mountains and adventure...is gone.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Apr 26, 2015 - 01:39pm PT
That video just posted - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JC_wIWUC2U - says it all. Amazing more people didn't die. What to do? Gotta be something.

JL
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2015 - 03:26pm PT
Reports are starting to come in from the rural areas as the Nepalese army has been doing fly overs. Whole villages have disappeared in giant landslides and the Trisuli River is blocked by landslides in several places which means flooding later on if they can't make breaches in the blocks soon. Langtang National Park and the villages in it have been flattened, including many of the trees.

Reports from Khumbu say that Namche, Tengboche, and Thame all have severe damage and their inhabitants are sleeping out in the open under tents due to continuous after shocks.

No word yet from the Mustang region which was much closer to the epicenter.

So far the names of the Sherpas who were killed at Everest Base Camp have not been released and only a few of the westerners. Melissa Arnot who founded the Juniper fund to help families of Sherpas killed in the mountains will include these Sherpas as well.
BloggerQueen61

Social climber
Valley Village
Apr 26, 2015 - 05:07pm PT
I am simply crushed by this earthquake. I had been planning for many weeks to try and get myself ready to climb Mt. Everest and I was going to contact Fred Ziel, whose younger brother I dated 13 years ago, but now, why bother, it's a mess up there, I'm a novice, looking for advice in a bad time. Why before I want to do something worthwhile, something like this happens. I know I didn't cause it, but it blocks me, makes me feel so sad, maybe in the next 1 year things will calm down. Prayers out to the ones up there that passed, they were doing what they loved. It's all we can do on this dangerous Earth. I've been around.
BloggerQueen61

Social climber
Valley Village
Apr 26, 2015 - 05:09pm PT
I'm sure you'all have seen the scary footage of the German climber who survived but his friend could barely catch his breath. It's just such a shock, if there is anything I can do, set up a GOFUND account, help with getting the word out, anything, just ASK me! Prayers going out.
BloggerQueen61

Social climber
Valley Village
Apr 26, 2015 - 05:11pm PT
One more thing: I AM SO glad Fred Ziel was not on the mountain this time, I know and respect that he's faced her head on at least twice in his life. I would one day like to attempt it myself, but with experienced climbers like Fred Ziel. And I've climbed a few smaller mountains in Montana, North Carolina, and even Maine! Thanks for this forum. Leslie Siegel aka Blogger Queen!
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Apr 26, 2015 - 05:15pm PT
Seva Foundation has been providing eye care services to rural Nepal since 1978. They support a large number of doctors and clinics year around.
https://secure2.convio.net/seva/site/Donation2?idb=0&df_id=4800&4800.donation=form1

Al Jazeera is reporting at least 2500 known dead. Many parts of the country can't be reached except by helicopter.
17 dead at Everest base camp. More than 60 injured. Helicopter evacuations to Pheriche are ongoing. And Pheriche is a helluva long way from the outside world in this chaos.

At EBC Google exec Dan Fredinburg is dead as is Madison Mountaineering doctor Marisa Eve Girawong. Also Tom Taplin from Evergreen, Colorado.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Mexico City, D.F.
Apr 26, 2015 - 07:39pm PT
^ Bloggerqueen I'm sure you can find some way to help that will be more meaningful to you (and heroic) than climbing a mountain. I'd say just go there and dig people out, but you want to be careful not to become part of the problem, and I doubt they are issuing tourist visas. I have a friend who traveled to Pakistan in 2010 and took the most incredible photos of refugees of the flood. When foreign doctors started traveling to Africa to treat Ebola patients, my faith in the medical profession was somewhat restored. I tried to do something like this in Afghanistan in 2003, although the ideas I'd had all turned out to be too difficult. It depends what your skills are, but if you dedicated the time you'd spend planning an expedition to thinking of ways to help, I'm sure you'd come up with something. Maybe Jan has contacts there with some ideas.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Apr 26, 2015 - 07:55pm PT
Jan, thanks so much for the update, and again, thanks. L.
zBrown

Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
Apr 26, 2015 - 08:00pm PT
Reaching into the 1906 San Francisco zone (7.9 about 3000 deaths) now.

Buildings probably comparable too.

-Mother Nature



climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Apr 26, 2015 - 08:17pm PT
So sorry Apogee
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 26, 2015 - 08:39pm PT
Me as well, Apogee. Friends are hard to come by, acquaintances a dime a dozen. My condolence for your loss.

crankster

Trad climber
Apr 26, 2015 - 08:47pm PT
Sorry about your friend, Apogee.
crankster

Trad climber
Apr 26, 2015 - 08:51pm PT
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Apr 26, 2015 - 09:16pm PT
I appreciate that many of you have already linked to the Everest Avalanche video, but this one on youtube is the first link that worked for me.

Scary!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JC_wIWUC2U
zBrown

Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
Apr 26, 2015 - 09:19pm PT
This is the one mentioned above a couple of times. Starts out innocently enough.


[Click to View YouTube Video]
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2015 - 09:23pm PT
The best video footage I've seen so far is on canadanepal.net which I didn't even know existed until today.

This video shows how the army and police were digging people out of the wreckage by hand all through the night with nothing more than their bare hands.

http://www.canadanepalprogram.info/2015/04/nepal-earthquake-intense-rescue-effort.html

The army and police seem to be the only Nepalese government officials anywhere to be seen. People are bound to get angry at some point and it will be interesting to see the political outcome of that.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 26, 2015 - 09:28pm PT
hey there say, jan...

oh my... i was afraid of this... barehand work, only...

and by not enough folks to get much more done, than the 'tip of the iceberg saying' ... :(

thanks for sharing... :)
cleo

Social climber
wherever you go, there you are
Apr 26, 2015 - 09:35pm PT
According to the USGS, losses are likely to be in the tens of thousands based on population exposure to shaking and the type of construction.

WBraun

climber
Apr 26, 2015 - 09:45pm PT
They barely have any resources to handle some of these confined space rescues.

They just dig people out and grab em hoping they do not incur more damge to a persons injuries.

no backboards c-collars etc,

Grim humanitarian nightmare display of suffering and disaster.

It's going on all over the planet simultaneously.

And all while on this forum you hear people bragging about their economic developments.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Apr 26, 2015 - 10:02pm PT
F*#k!
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2015 - 11:10pm PT
This just in from a Spanish woman who has been a Buddhist nun for more than 40 years and is living in Thame, to the west of Namche.

" we had a very frightening time. about 90 per cent of the houses in thangme and so forth have collapsed. a few inthe gompa itself also gone. we spent the night camping in afield but as always with sherpas joking and laughing a lot and also doing many prayers.
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
Apr 26, 2015 - 11:39pm PT
Thank you Jan for your contributions to this thread. Your knowledge and connections make you an invaluable resource.
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Apr 27, 2015 - 12:17am PT
Wish I could be there to help :( tickets are a bit out of my reach right now though at 5k.

Seems like these folks get the crap end of the stick way too often.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 27, 2015 - 12:48am PT
hey there say, cleo...

thank you so much for sharing...
thank you...
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Mexico City, D.F.
Apr 27, 2015 - 04:41am PT
Plane ticket to Delhi should still be doable under $1k. Could go to a half dozen hardware stores, buy 50 shovels, hire a van to the Nepal border, and organize the first tourist brigade, for only a small fraction of what a guided trip to the summit of Everest would cost. ($50k+) They probably need gas generators and medical supplies too.
David Hammerbeck

Mountain climber
Fremont, CA
Apr 27, 2015 - 08:19am PT
Anybody know about climbers/trekkers in the Buddhi Gandaki and other areas, like the Marysangdi, around Manaslu? That was the closest to the epicenter, along with the less visited Ganesh Himal .... I have yet to hear anything. Those little villages - Arughat Bazaar, Lokpa, Samdo, and others must be absolutely devastated.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Apr 27, 2015 - 08:25am PT
Nice intentions, Vegas, but I think we both know that they need well equiped urban rescue
units and, most importantly, heavy equipment and mobile hospitals that only the US
military can provide. BTW, where the hell is the US? Up here in Canada there's a lot of
hand-wringing going on and the government is sending a 25 person rescue team. Better
than nothing, but only just.
WBraun

climber
Apr 27, 2015 - 08:33am PT
BTW, where the hell is the US?

They're busy keeping their stupid wars and propaganda proxy wars that are keeping the world wide humanitarian crises going strong.

The whole planet is suffering.

No one gives a sh!t.

Everyone is too busy talking about nothing.

Too busy talking about stoopid politicians who say nothing.

What a stoopid world full of idiots .....
steve shea

climber
Apr 27, 2015 - 08:35am PT
The US has sent a plane with medical rescue personnel and two rescue helos and some, not much, financial help.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Apr 27, 2015 - 08:42am PT
Canada and the USA are both a disgrace to the 'civilized' world but especially the US with
our military's ability to be anywhere on the planet within hours to kill somebody or save them.
MikeL

Social climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 27, 2015 - 08:50am PT
. . . as always with sherpas joking and laughing a lot and also doing many prayers.

Really great people. Really the way to be.
crankster

Trad climber
Apr 27, 2015 - 09:26am PT
Correcting the error in above posts regarding US help.. The earthquake just happened - on the other side of the world.

WASHINGTON — Apr 27, 2015, 12:02 PM ET
By The Associated Press
Associated Press
The Pentagon says two teams of U.S. Army Green Beret soldiers happened to be in Nepal when the deadly earthquake struck Saturday and are staying to help with search and relief efforts.

A Pentagon spokesman, Col. Steve Warren, says the 26 U.S. soldiers were in Nepal for high-altitude and other training with the Nepalese army. The 11-person crew of a C-130 cargo plane that brought them to Nepal also is remaining in case of a request to evacuate any American citizens in the affected area.

In addition, Warren says that a second U.S. Air Force C-17 cargo plane departed Monday from March Air Force Base in California to transport members of a Los Angeles urban search and rescue team to Nepal. It is due to arrive there Tuesday.

Secretary of State John Kerry is telling reporters in New York that the US aid to Nepal has grown from $1 million to $10 million.

On Sunday, an Air Force C-17 Globemaster took off from Dover Air Force Base, Delaware, with roughly 70 people, including a Disaster Assistance Response Team from the U.S. Agency for International Development and a rescue team from Fairfax County, Virginia, said Army Col. Steven Warren, a Defense Department spokesman. The flight is expected to arrive Monday at Tribhuvan International Airport, in the Kathmandu Valley.

"We are in the process of mobilizing resources and figuring out how to get them in," Jana Sweeny, a spokesperson for the American Red Cross, told The WorldPost.

Sweeny says the American Red Cross is working with the International Federation of the Red Cross and the Nepal Red Cross Society to determine what needs to be done and how they can best direct their efforts. "We are looking at what resources we can provide them in terms of specialists or supplies and financial support," she said.

Drone footage:
http://www.cnn.com/videos/world/2015/04/27/nepal-curnow-drone-video.cnn
Jawon

climber
Apr 27, 2015 - 09:35am PT
Canada and the USA are both a disgrace to the 'civilized' world but especially the US with our military's ability to be anywhere on the planet within hours to kill somebody or save them.

This is where NGO's can fill the gap. World Vision (an international organization with much of the funding from the US) is one that is well positioned for this type of disaster response.

In full disclosure, I am one of 40k worldwide employees. Since I know this tragedy is close to the hearts of many here, I just wanted to provide some hope that there are people/orgs who do care and are trying to help during these critical first days. WV is a Christian organization but it does not distribute help based on religion. We already have a wide distribution of staff in underdeveloped regions so are among the first on the scene.

From http://www.worldvision.org/news-stories-videos/nepal-earthquake. I've bolded the parts that may be of interest to this group. I don't know if the areas they mention are common climber destinations but we certainly have an interest in Nepal...

"World Vision has sent a team to assess the damage in rural areas. In some of the remote areas staff heading out for assessments are finding both the road and the trails blocked by landslides, making access extremely difficult.

After search and rescue, World Vision disaster management staff say initial needs are potable water, food, household supplies, temporary shelter, and protection for children.

In the initial phase, our response will target 100,000 people in the worst-affected areas of Bhaktapur, Gorkha, Kathmandu, Lalitpur and Lamjung.

We will be working to meet immediate needs including providing first aid kits, sleeping mats, blankets and jerry cans; temporary shelter; and protection for children.

World Vision has begun to distribute 1,000 tarpaulins and 600 blankets in Bhaktapur, one of the worst hit areas.

We are also setting up six Child-Friendly Spaces so children have a safe space to play following the trauma of the quake.

Disaster management experts from World Vision’s operations around the region — including in neighboring India and Bangladesh — are on standby to provide relief assistance to the Nepal response. Some supplies were pre-positioned in Nepal, while others will be airlifted in from Dubai.

We're working with government and partners to assess the situation and respond to the need of children and their communities. World Vision works with 43 local NGO partners in its operating districts.

In Nepal, World Vision has 73 projects managed by 205 staff."
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Apr 27, 2015 - 09:42am PT
NICE Jawon! and Thank You for your service:)

LA county Fire sent 80 S&R personnel along with 13 search dogs last night.

And another Ca. group called Rubicon sent 50 people.

Cali always steps up!!
snowey

Trad climber
San Diego
Apr 27, 2015 - 09:48am PT
Lots of changes at Tomnod over the last couple of years where we are now part of Digitalglobe. This means that we have much quicker access to the satellites and can influence where they shoot.

Yesterday we launched a Tomnod campaign on www.tomnod.com to allow people to map the damage seen in the imagery. We will be updating the site as we collect more images. We also put in a tasking request to try to capture the Everest area.

Read more here: DigitalGlobe blog


Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2015 - 11:19am PT
Here is a post from Dave Hahn about the situation on Everest. As always, Dave is an engaging writer.


MT. EVEREST EXPEDITION: DAVE HAHN DETAILS THE DAYS EVENTS AS THE TEAM ARRIVES BASE CAMP

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 27, 2015

Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest 
Elevation: 17,575'

At Camp One, we were up before dawn, boiling cups of instant coffee and hurriedly packing.  It wasn’t going to be an ideal scenario, by any means… Being “rescued” from 20,000 ft on Mount Everest, along with perhaps 180 of our closest friends… But we weren’t likely to get any better offers… The Icefall Route that should have been a two hour descent to Basecamp was decidedly out of order and couldn’t be fixed while the earth was still shaking.  We got out in the cold shadows in our down suits and thankfully saw clear and calm conditions.  Perhaps we all did have a chance to escape the Western Cwm.  It seemed unlikely that ninety plus landings and take offs -at what was a record breaking rescue altitude for helicopters only twenty years ago- could be accomplished without chaos or catastrophe… or at least unworkable delay, but sure enough, the first B3 powered on in at 6 AM and the great Everest Air Show began. 

A fear of the team leaders was a helicopter mob scene ala Saigon ‘75, but we’d arrayed our helipads in a way that didn’t allow for mobbing and everybody seemed to understand the need for superior social skills on this day.  There was one way out and nobody wanted to get put on the “no fly” list.  Eventually there were four or five birds in the air at any time, flying a dramatic loop from BC to Camp One to BC.  A line of climbers with packs formed at each pad and a stream of climbers from Camp 2 made their way into what was left of Camp 1 and then joined the queues.  It took four laps in Kiwi pilot Jason’s B3 to get our team down.  Although it seemed already like a full day, it was only about 9:30 AM when Chhering and I got off the final RMI chopper. 

There was no back-slapping.  No cheering.  No high fives.  We’d put down at the epicenter of a disaster and we could barely believe our eyes.  Whatever relief each of us felt at being off the mountain was quickly replaced with sadness and awe at the destructive power on evidence all around us.  Hearing on the radio about the quake triggered Avalanche that blasted BC did nothing to prepare us for experiencing the aftermath first hand.  It was as if an enormous bomb had detonated.  We each walked slowly through the obliterated camps, stopping to understand how much force had bent this or that bit of steel. 

We finally understood the enormous death toll and the nature of the numerous injuries to the survivors.  When we reached our own greatly altered camp and heard a few stories from neighbors, we finally understood Mark Tucker’s heroism of the last few days, helping to stabilize and transport dozens upon dozens of seriously injured, bloody and broken people.  He and our Sherpa team had gone immediately to help others, even though their own camp was largely destroyed.  By now, we are not even mildly surprised to learn that they somehow found time and energy to rebuild camp for our arrival.  Our “ordeal” seems trivial by comparison… we had to stay a bit longer in a beautiful and legendary hanging valley and deal with a bit of uncertainty.  Now back down to earth… we understand just how lucky we’ve been and we are sad beyond words to learn how unlucky others have been.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

http://www.explorersweb.com/offsite/?source=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rmiguides.com%2Fblog%2F2015%2F04%2F27%2Fmt._everest_expedition_dave_hahn_details_the_days_events_as_the_team_arrive&lang=en
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2015 - 01:12pm PT
Just got the news! Everyone in my village survived, about 200 of them. Their houses are damaged as is the Buddhist temple, though surprisingly, the temple is still standing. I had been negotiating with a restoration architect who works with UNESCO to restore the temple before this happened. I hope he is still interested.

Now, we all have to wait to see if anyone from our village died in the avalanche or Khumbu icefall. Anyway, things are looking up for that small section of Nepal.

And here are some inspiring images from Nepal and Tibet showing the human spirit in the midst of the misery.

http://www.indiatimes.com/news/india/20-images-that-show-how-hard-nepals-earthquake-survivors-are-fighting-to-stay-alive-and-smile-232197.html
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
Apr 27, 2015 - 01:18pm PT
TFPU Jan.
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Apr 27, 2015 - 01:22pm PT
Glad to read your good news Jan.

edit: The images on that link are powerful. The spirit of people in dire circumstances, burning bright.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Apr 27, 2015 - 01:51pm PT
Such awesome good news! a bit of hope as we await news from places not yet reached.
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Apr 27, 2015 - 02:02pm PT
Imagine if those rich f*#ks paid for their own helicopter rescue and let the army help the 2500 dead and the 1 million kids with no food.

http://documents.wfp.org/stellent/groups/public/documents/ena/wfp273989.pdf
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Apr 27, 2015 - 02:18pm PT
Thanks for the report Jan!

And thanks, Dave Hahn, for your excellent article. I have tears and heartache trying to even begin to comprehend the devastation and loss along with some Karmic miracles at BC. The older I get, the less I know about life and how it unfolds for each individual.

Offering up intense prayer for all the brokenness that has ruptured into people's lives. Our planet moves and works, it sows and reaps, it provides and takes away. We may feel in control, but it is us, not the planet that is fragile. God help the broken and restore the hurting. Amen.
crankster

Trad climber
Apr 27, 2015 - 02:31pm PT
You're right, DMT. Those aren't the only helicopters in Nepal and everyone up there isn't rich.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Apr 27, 2015 - 02:37pm PT
I think the majority of people in basecamp were Sherpa. It takes a lot of help to get those clients up that thing.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2015 - 02:45pm PT
Climbing and trekking tourism is the third largest source of income in Nepal after remittances from overseas workers and Gurkha pensions. The government knows very well that protecting the climbers and tourists will help bring them back in the future after all the emergency aid agencies have rushed off to the next crisis. That's important since the recovery effort will take many many years.

And yes, many of the evacuated were Sherpas.
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Apr 27, 2015 - 03:16pm PT
And hopefully those who do have expendable income may be inspired to donate some of it to those c=organizations and groups which are helping people through this.

Hoser

climber
vancouver
Apr 27, 2015 - 03:40pm PT
you know what its a clilmbing forum, go on care about your historic temples and tourism...whatever, hardly reality
Crazy Bat

Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
Apr 27, 2015 - 04:43pm PT
Hoser, it is my experience that if you don't respect the religion and morals of the people who inhabit your favorite recreation areas you and all your friends soon loose access to those areas. My experience is in caving. North Alabama, NW Georgia and SE Tenn have a lot in common with Mexico. If you don't behave appropriately they won't let you come back, even if you bring a lot of money to spend.
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Apr 27, 2015 - 05:44pm PT
I recall 35 years or so ago being in Nepal. I had studied structural design and earthquake engineering and thought the place looked like an earthquake disaster waiting to happen. I asked a Nepali guy if they had earthquakes and he said no, never. When back home I looked up historic earthquakes in Nepal and quickly learned that they have had quite a few which of course one would expect where the mountains are still growing higher. Human memories are not long enough for geologic events.

I look at the media coverage today and find that most of it seems to be focused on a handful of foreign tourist/climbers who have too much money. I would think the few helicopters they have could be put to better use than rescuing a few of the "Huge head with skinny neck and fat wallet" types inhabiting Everest base camp. Being a Sherpa doesn't make you a saint.

When the dust settles I think we will find that the death toll and suffering in the mountain villages is much, much higher than currently being reported. The houses can be several stories tall and are built of stone with mud mortar. It will take some time before we hear how bad it really is.
crankster

Trad climber
Apr 27, 2015 - 06:02pm PT
^^
What are you watching? Most of the coverage I've seen talks about the devastation in the country first, Everest second.
http://www.cnn.com/2015/04/26/asia/nepal-earthquake/index.html
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Apr 27, 2015 - 06:39pm PT
All this is kinda crazy, ST posters arguing in the largeness of their lives when people have been killed, injured and lives changed forever. Poor, rich and in between, people hurt. Let's put aside our personal judgement calls and post prayers, send money and even volunteer to help in this devastating crisis.

Lots of hurt today........went up to our closest mountain, Palomar, last couple hours, burnt sage and said prayers.




Gotta stick together and love one another. You, me, we only have today.

Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2015 - 08:27pm PT
Thank you Lynne on several levels!
Mark Rodell

Trad climber
Bangkok
Apr 27, 2015 - 09:16pm PT
Thank you Jan. I am glad you friends are well. The school I worked at seems to have survived. All my friends who live there that have contacted me are okay. That said, I am waiting to hear from others.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2015 - 09:20pm PT
And here's a discouraging report on Facebook which illustrates a large part of the problem.

7:12pm.

I have been at the airport since the last six hours waiting for my sister to fly back to Denmark. An rather sad observation to note. Fully prepped rescue teams from various countries have arrived, but they have been stranded at the airport since the last 4 hours or more. The government representatives assigned to mobilise them are the same lousy lot and taking their own sweet time to get them to the disaster hit grounds.

And after all that hours of wait, what arrives is just one mini Tata truck with an open backside, tiny Gypsies and a couple of microbuses. Where are all the massive SUVs and fully covered trucks? And what are the armies assigned doing just watching them load their equipments and taking mobile videos? How on earth are they supposed to transport all their gears and themselves with this little arrangement? And it's even going to rain now.

Come on incompetent politicians, if you can't get work done faster, at least do something to mobilise these fully prepared folks to the ground as soon as possible. All these politicians want is a bundle of cash, even in these desperate times. It's sad, really sad. God help us.
Regardless, international communities please don't lose hope on us and keep sending them forces. We really appreciate all of this help.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Apr 27, 2015 - 09:40pm PT
Thanks always for your up to date info Jan. You are an awesome member of the campfire.

We must not be discouraged. We must do what each of us can....a call, a prayer, whatever. The work will get done. This is a time for encouragement, for energy, for thinking outside the box, along with love and compassion.

For the person that reported this I especially pray and ask God to send out positive energy to not be discouraged. For all those that are hungry, homeless, tired, injured, missing loved ones.....I pray blessings of peace and encouragement and let the man power and money raised get there quickly to help those in need.

Sent with love from all of us here....
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2015 - 09:58pm PT
The sad fact is, the Nepalese have never had a government that cared about them. The good news is that it has made them strong and resilient. If anything, they have been too patient and long suffering. This disaster may turn out to be the catalyst that finally motivates them to bring about a real change. Even Jesus had righteous anger, and anger can get things done when patience can't.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Apr 27, 2015 - 10:23pm PT
You are right on, Jan. Thanks for your comment!
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
Apr 27, 2015 - 10:35pm PT
Seeing the world through a Western lens is often a distorted view. This usually is not the fault of the observer, but it does compounds the difficulties as mentioned in that Facebook post that Jan posted.

There is a reason these are 3rd and 4th world countries.

Catalyst for (real) change may very well be the result of this suffering.
The Nepalese are a resilient peoples, however like all of us they are a product of their government's actions or, inactions as the case may be.



Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2015 - 11:23pm PT
There is a reason these are 3rd and 4th world countries.


Indeed! One of the first things one learns in that part of the world is that poverty isn't just about lack of money.


But thanks Lynne, for your words of encouragement. It is easy to get discouraged at times like this. Keep reminding me to be optimistic if it seems I'm going to far down the other path.
CCT

Trad climber
Apr 27, 2015 - 11:48pm PT
I am not on the ground, but I would be hesitant to criticize a 4-hour mobilization delay, and inadequate transportation. I doubt that Nepal has a good transportation infrastructure to begin with, and most of their equipment is probably already in use by existing Nepalese units. It is undoubtedly a logistical nightmare over there right now, even for the best trained personnel. Any rescue workers going to that area should ideally be completely self-sufficient, including transportation. E.g., foreign government should be involved.

Not saying that the Nepalese government doesn't have issues. I'm sure it does. I just doubt that bribes and corruption is really the immediate problem here.

Defer to Jan though.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 27, 2015 - 11:59pm PT
hey there, say, jan... thanks for all the updates...

oh my...
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2015 - 12:04am PT
The problem is 50% incompetence, 50% corruption. Each government official has a large Japanese 4 wheel drive Pajero provided at government expense but none of those were sent. I did wonder though why the embassies of the countries involved hadn't met their own groups. Someone on Facebook mentioned this had to do with "protocol". I'm pretty sure that won't happen again however as word will spread quickly among the rescue teams not to wait on the government or the embassies. It won't be the first time that aid workers have had to defy their own embassies and the Nepalese government to actually get things done on behalf of the Nepalese people. (If you think I'm cynical it's because I worked on a foreign aid project for three years in Nepal).
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
Apr 28, 2015 - 12:15am PT
In the off chance you haven't seen this...

http://news.sciencemag.org/asia/2015/04/nepal-earthquake-may-herald-more-himalayan-temblors
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Apr 28, 2015 - 12:44am PT
Your right though He was so angry He threw out the moneychangers and the sellers of doves from the temple square. They weren't jews. They were there basically ripping off the local jews with inflated currency exchange which they needed inorder to buy their wares including doves which were the cheapest animal at the time to use for sacrifice that the poorest jews had to have. Again these were people with money taking advantage and stealing from the poor. Sound familiar?? This is the only time I can think of when He actually physically lashed out against anyone.

I don't think your wrong to be angry at the ones in power not harkening to those in need:-)

And your right again that this could be a good time for those suffering to hear a word of enlightenment..
brodracula

Trad climber
hawaii
Apr 28, 2015 - 01:01am PT
My prayers go out to all.just saw the account of last years avalanche on the icefall, now this.Its like the mt. is trying to tell us something.Maybe that the whole Everest over guided scene has gotten to big.or that we had just started taken her for granted.like murphy's law states whatever can happen will happen.when climbing or hiking under hanging ice its not a question of if but when.one time me and a friend were looking at cerro torre dreaming of being on the face.then through binos I saw some summit ice breakloose and cream the face.it was at that point I started weighing risk vs reward a lot more.in every aspect of my life.
Crazy Bat

Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
Apr 28, 2015 - 03:35am PT
I've never been to Nepal. Mexico was my only exposure to a third world country. When I read Jan's post about the large SUV's my first thought was, hmm if that was Mexico they wouldn't have been parked on the street, they would have been in garages. I imagine that would mean they would have been crushed in Nepal. Could that be part of the problem?

Only a small part I am sure.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Apr 28, 2015 - 07:39am PT
For Jan or others who need to call to or from nepal.

Free call services by many companies arranged for Nepal. Will work for places with service .. others not so much of course.

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2015/04/27/skype-nepal-free-calls_n_7156264.html
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2015 - 08:07am PT
Thanks climbski. I saw that. Most of my friends are literate now so we have communicated by email or Facebook so the voice lines would be open for the many in the country who can not read or write. Facebook put up a site where people can check in that was very helpful.


Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2015 - 08:22am PT
The New York Times which has a good sense of the realities of Nepal has been pretty forthcoming with its own criticism of the government. Here's one quote.

"The government has been barely functional for more than a decade, with politicians of just about every stripe fighting over the scraps of the increasingly desperate economy....the resulting Constituent Assembly spent four years trying to write a constitution without success.

Nepal's people had already become exhausted with the political paralysis but those feelings could turn explosive if relief and rescue efforts fail in the coming weeks. The fear of just such an outcome could spur an intense international relief effort as an odd collection of countries including China, India and the United States were already cooperating on pushing Nepal's politicians toward a compromise."

Meanwhile the thin layer of middle class professionals in the country have been working themselves to exhaustion. Nobody can fault the police, the army or the medical professions and certainly not the helicopter pilots.
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
Apr 28, 2015 - 11:22am PT
On Monday, I was delighted to see that my company had a giving campaign for this tragedy and increased the company matching from 50% to 100%. I selected a couple of worthy charities, as did many in the office.

Rescue is a tough job in a first world country with largely intact infrastructure with fairly competent people. This certainly is an overwhelming event for them.
Gorgeous George

Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
Apr 28, 2015 - 12:34pm PT
An incompetent, corrupt government, inexperienced and unprepared for major disasters, and the extent of the damage and carnage to the local populace is so great that they are overwhelmed and unable to act responsibly, efficiently, and effectively.

The result is people are trying to flee in any way possible, jamming roads and adding to the confusion and chaos.

Disaster tourists flying in to gawk at the scene, and the weather is worsening.

Is that what they mean by a "clusterf*#k?"
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2015 - 01:24pm PT
The good news is that the Indian army has brought in heavy equipment and engineers who have cleared all the major roads into and out of Kathmandu to facilitate relief efforts and are flying a huge number of sorties into the isolated mountains to rescue the injured. So far, India has put forth the largest and most effective effort. Of course they have the shortest supply lines also.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Apr 28, 2015 - 02:09pm PT
Thanks for all your comments, Jan. I'm not sure what that above comment meant(not from you) about now we see why they are 3rd and 4th world countries. I do know that greed and corruption are very prevalent in even the richest financially well off and techno savy countries. They just hide it better. I'm not being cynical...it's just the truth.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Apr 28, 2015 - 03:04pm PT
After a total cardiac arrest on a bluebird day, with cellphones and personal locator beacon, 5 fully competent comrades, CalStar and CHP helicopters, Truckee SAR and 2 helicopter rides. It took 2 1/2 hours to get me from 5 miles behind Truckee to a hospital in Reno. A total of 13 rescuers. About 30 miles.
To me it seemed like only an hour.

4 hours mobilization delay amid a national catastrophe in Nepal, meh!!
Doesn't sound too bad to me.
On the other hand they're not having too many problems helicoptering uninjured climbers and trekkers from EBC to Lukla to KTM.
Imagine the FUSS if poor Johnny and Mathilda were stuck at EBC for a week while those choppers were evacuating Nepalis from devastated villages. The darlings might miss their scheduled flights home!!!

Sometimes life just ain't fair!!
or
she who has the money calls the shots.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2015 - 03:26pm PT
And the Nepalese government does realize that a year down the road when most of the emergency aid has run off after the next disaster, it will be climbers and trekkers who come back to Nepal again and again and keep the mountain economy going.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2015 - 04:36pm PT
I'm trying to think of what to write to a friend I first met back in 1974 when he was a Peace Corps volunteer and I was doing research for my dissertation. He spent 3 years in a high altitude village called Langtang which later became a national park. Yesterday late we all learned that the entire village of 300 people has been completely buried by a huge avalanche a couple of miles wide. Locals and tourists are stranded both above and below the impassable landslide and are being flown out by the Indian Army.

I was so relieved to find out that all my friends and villagers had survived and then learned of this sorrow. It's overwhelming, more for some than others.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Apr 28, 2015 - 04:47pm PT
Langtang gone
So many villages gone.
So many villages destroyed that the outside world doesn't even know about yet.

We've heard nothing from the Annapurna region yet it is as near to the epicenter as KTM.
Somewhere yesterday I saw a sort of shaking intensity map. It looked as if the intensity dropped much more rapidly to the west than to the east. The epicenter was roughly midway between Pokhara and KTM
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
Apr 28, 2015 - 06:38pm PT
I'm not sure what that above comment meant(not from you) about now we see why they are 3rd and 4th world countries.

If you are referring to my comment about there being a reasons for 3rd + 4th world countries I was responding to and early line of posting about the seemingly ineptitude of the local gov. to assist in a timely manner the overwhelming needs of the local people.

Some posters couldn't or didn't seem to understand the challenges that are faced in these types of events. The fact that Nepal in the best of times struggles daily in their fight for basic needs should be taken into account. That it is no wonder there is an extremely slow and frustratingly time lag currently going on especially as systems need to be set up and are not automatically triggered as they would be in say...the USA, or Germany (though one only needs to look back at Katrina for even that).

If you've been to any 3rd or 4th world countries you'd know what I'm talking about.
I have the highest sympathy for all those folks and remain connected to the process (from this end) of helping get the much needed supplies in to those in need.

Hope that is clearer.

Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Apr 28, 2015 - 07:59pm PT
Thanks Delhi Dog, I thought you were referring to the corruption and political scamming in those countries. I agree with you and appreciate your comments on ST.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2015 - 08:17pm PT
By the way, the next day after all those European teams waited at the airport with their sniffer dogs for transportation while Nepalese lay under bricks and concrete with every hour important to their survival, our American ambassador met the Fairfax County Virginia rescue team on the runway with our own transport and they were working an hour after arrival.
CCT

Trad climber
Apr 29, 2015 - 12:22am PT
Then your comment yesterday was right. The foreign teams heard about the delays and got their embassies involved.

Corruption, incompetence, or logistical difficulties. A little of all three, I'm guessing.

This must be really hard for you, Jan. Thanks for keeping us all informed. Now I'm off the MSF to make a donation....
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Apr 29, 2015 - 03:16am PT
Former AAC president Mark Richey was interviewed by our local TV station. Mark has made over 50 expeditions to the greater ranges in his long climbing career.

http://www.necn.com/news/new-england/Locals-With-Nepal-Ties-React-to-Devastating-Quake-301502251.html

Jan: Thanks for keeping us all updated!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Apr 29, 2015 - 09:21am PT
(Reuters) - Nepali villagers blocked trucks carrying supplies for earthquake victims on Wednesday, demanding the government do more to help after last week's disaster left more than 5,000 people dead and tens of thousands homeless and short of food and water.

In the capital Kathmandu, about 200 people protested outside parliament, asking for more buses to go to their homes in remote parts of the Himalayan nation and to hasten the distribution of aid that has flooded into the country but been slow to reach those in need.

In Sangachowk village in one of the worst-hit districts, about three hours by road from the capital, scores of angry villagers blocked the road with tires.

They stopped two trucks headed for the district capital with rice, noodles and biscuits. Later they blocked a convoy of three army trucks with relief supplies, leading to a tense standoff with armed soldiers.
Branscomb

Trad climber
Lander, WY
Apr 29, 2015 - 09:28am PT
With monsoon coming on in 4 weeks or so full strength, those poor people are really in a fix.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Apr 29, 2015 - 09:46am PT
Thank you for your continual updates, Jan. What a terrible situation.

Was just reading these reports about Langtang village:

http://blogs.agu.org/landslideblog/2015/04/29/langtang-1/

http://mountainhydrology.org/nepal-quake/langtang-village/
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Apr 29, 2015 - 11:53am PT
I've got tears in my eyes, Jan. Can imagine being buried under rubble, trying to hang on and not give up hope.....and the very trained teams that could save a life are being detained. I feel so helpless sitting here. I continue to pray for miracles for individuals, villages and a new determination from everyone to sort out priorities and work together.
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Apr 29, 2015 - 12:00pm PT
Keeping them in our prayers and hoping our small donation will help.

The sad reality is whether or not a country is a 1st, 2nd, 3rd or 4th world, when a major natural disaster hits no country is properly prepried nor can it quickly respond to all those in need.

It seems especially cruel when those who already have so little and struggle so hard just to survive loose everything.
cleo

Social climber
wherever you go, there you are
Apr 29, 2015 - 01:20pm PT
kunlan_shan, I was just going to link to the AGU landslide blog, so thank you. Here's more from the same blog (see links in posts above as well):

FOR full blog post and images go to:
http://blogs.agu.org/landslideblog/2015/04/29/landslides-in-the-nepal-earthquake-preliminary-guidelines-for-relief-and-response-activities/

Confusion continues to be a factor in determining the Nepal Earthquake impact – not unusual in any way, and not a criticism of anyone involved. The official death toll continues to increase – at the time of writing it is is 3351 (I strong recommend this twitter account for the latest information), and the total is rising quickly. But this remains much lower than we had anticipated for an event of this size in Nepal. This is partly because buildings in Kathmandu have performed far better than we had feared – at the moment the reasons for this are not clear, but it is very welcome.

But the key question is what is happening to the north of Kathmandu in the rural areas. This is the zone in which the peak ground accelerations are likely to have been highest, and it is also an area in which the houses are vulnerable (typically being constructed of weak materials) and most communities live on, or close to, slopes. These communities, which are remote at the best of times, may well have been very badly affected by the earthquake. An example appears to be the town of Barpak, high in the mountains in Gorkha District. This is the Google Earth image of the town before the earthquake:

(image)

Both of these images suggest that losses in Barpak should be high. The key questions are:

1. To what degree are these losses included in the official totals (my guess would be they are not, but I might be wrong)?

2. To what degree is the damage in Barpak replicated elsewhere?

Because if the answer to 1. is that the official death toll does not account for the losses in Barpak, and to 2. is that this is replicated elsewhere then the losses are going to be much higher than at present. We can only hope that this is not the case.

Either way the pictures above suggest that a massive mobilisation of aid is going to be needed.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Apr 29, 2015 - 05:22pm PT
http://www.breitbart.com/california/2015/04/29/california-climbers-surviving-everest-for-now-while-rescue-uncertain/
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Apr 29, 2015 - 06:38pm PT
A short film from the basecamp tragedy.

https://vimeo.com/126330316
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2015 - 11:32pm PT
For anyone interested:

Here is a very well written and as diplomatic as you can get discussion by an Oxford University professor about the political problems of Nepal.
http://theconversation.com/could-nepals-messy-politics-hamper-relief-efforts-40903

And here is where you can access daily situation reports put out by the UN representative to Nepal. He gives a lot of good stats as to how much aid has been dispersed so far.

http://www.digitalhimalaya.com/collections/journals/unorc/

And a fairly upbeat article from the Times of India.

April 29

"Four days after Nepal was convulsed by tremors that touched a massive 7.8-magnitude, Kathmandu finally showed signs of coming back to life. With subsiding aftershocks, power lines have largely been restored and phone and internet connections re-established.

Taxis and buses are coming back, though not in large numbers and banks are opening. About a third of shops have lifted shutters in bustling Thamel, the touristy trades of money change, travels, curios and Tibetan woolens are welcoming customers. The music is back, too, a sign that life goes on, though most cafes, restaurants and bars are keeping the volume low.

Nepal Electricity Authority said Kathmandu valley will be fully electrified by Wednesday evening. A technical team from the Indian Air Force and Power Grid Corporation of India has been helping fix transformers and get over technical glitches in the aftermath of the quake.

On their part, telecom operators Ncell and Nepal Telecom said networks had strengthened across the country and will get better with improvement in power supply. Both companies have announced unlimited calls, SMS and data facilities.

A stalled banking service had really hit people hard but that, too, looked to change with Nepal Rastra Bank directing banks to adopt alternative measures to provide services if they couldn't function the normal way. ATM counters had opened though quite a few were unable to dispense money. The Nepal Bankers' Association, meanwhile, has fixed Rs 50,000 as the withdrawal limit for individual customers, many of whom have been with very little or no cash in hand since last Saturday.

But the government had to push, cajole and threaten to get Kathmandu moving again. It had on Tuesday warned retailers of "tough action" if they didn't come back to their shops. And it had gone to the extent of announcing a 10-year jail term and fine of Rs 2 lakh for defaulting shopkeepers. Transporters and taxi operators had been shown the stick too, with action taken against 58 vehicles.

To get the administration back on its feet, the ministry of general administration issued a circular on Wednesday directing all civil servants to report to their respective offices from Thursday. The directive further said it will monitor attendance and punish those who do not follow the instruction.
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Apr 29, 2015 - 11:45pm PT
That sounds pretty good:-)

i'll bet when LA has her big one it'll take longer then 4 days to get the power and banks back online:-(

Better start stashing some cash under my mattress!
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 06:19am PT
And then there's this Facebook posting by a friend of mine.


Its a really bad situation here in Nepal. The government is f***g incapable and inefficient to help us. Our family members, relatives, school children and teachers are stranded in Rolwaling. They survived but they are staying without proper shelter and food. We have been trying to send rescue helipcopter and food supplies for five days but we receive no attention from the home ministry, civil aviation and the district administration. The Cheif District Officer and adminstration's phone are switched off. Even if its rings they don't respond and without their approval no helicopters or aid are allowed. Even private rescues are not allowed. So its really frustrating and helpless situation. We have sent a request through Kantipur Television today eveining.

Premlal Lamichane (CDO) 9854017777, 9754201749
Gajendra Thakur 9841743005

These two people are contact person of Government of Nepal in Dolalkha but they are not responding and switched off.
zBrown

Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
Apr 30, 2015 - 08:32am PT
For the imagi_nation_ally impaired like me

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 08:34am PT
And some good news. A teenage boy was pulled out of the rubble alive after being buried for six days - 144 hours.
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
Apr 30, 2015 - 08:36am PT
That is amazing. A ray of hope in the midst of hopelessness.
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
Apr 30, 2015 - 09:12am PT
Mike Auldridge will be going to Nepal soon to continue work with the Alex Lowe fund.
He is offering to gather and deliver critical supplies. Contact me if you want his contact info,
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
Apr 30, 2015 - 09:27am PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2616657/Urgent-Nepal-Tent-Appeal

Please check out this thread.
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Apr 30, 2015 - 11:38am PT
Back to the top.
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
Apr 30, 2015 - 11:46am PT
When you get awoken in the wee hours by texts and emails and notifications from friends who you can not reach saying the ground is shaking again and we are running for our lives trying to save our children it is unbelievable heart wrenching.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 11:54am PT
Here's the latest from the Nepalese government. The prime minister has just issued an order that all newly opened individual and NGO accounts receiving money marked "Earthquake Aid" will have that money diverted to the Prime Minister's Relief Account.

The government claims this is to prevent fraud but everyone knows this is to get their rake off from the funds which must be considerable for them to do this. Hopefully international pressure is going to make them rescind this. If not, I have to send my money to a bank in a nearby country and then someone from the village has to fly there to get it. What a waste, but not the first time I have seen the central government make it extraordinarily difficult for well meaning foreigners to help their poorest people.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Apr 30, 2015 - 12:02pm PT
That's why our money is going to Doctors Without Borders. They are one
step ahead of the thieving bureaucrats in the countries they normally
work in.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 12:25pm PT
Unfortunately they are not yet in the remote villages. I am getting other stories about people arriving at the airport or Nepalese -Indian border with relief supplies and being turned back by Nepalese officials. I interpret this being because they refused to pay a bribe or a big enough one. Part of every large organization's overhead is bribe money unfortunately. Of course they will never admit they pay bribes in order to help the people their money was meant for.
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
Apr 30, 2015 - 12:27pm PT
NOOOOO please say it aint so.
Who can we contact to put pressure on the PM?
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 12:28pm PT
I'd leave that to the big guns like the embassies and Red Cross etc.
Meanwhile the rest of us have to find work arounds.

The Nepalese didn't become resilient by accident!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Apr 30, 2015 - 12:36pm PT
So while we are here doing our best to vet the charities we wish to use to help Nepal with.. the biggest scammers may be their own government?

Hmmm... I hope this shines a big light on the problem... Liberty is a tough thing to achieve. Usually it costs lives. This may be the beginning of change for Nepal. I hope this tragedy can lead to some long term real improvement for the future.

Complicated stuff. Lets keep doing our best though.
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
Apr 30, 2015 - 12:50pm PT
Jan please keep us informed on this mess.
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
Apr 30, 2015 - 01:29pm PT
We need to know how to help and who can help.
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
Apr 30, 2015 - 02:06pm PT
http://www.youcaring.com/emergency-fundraiser/help-boulder-s-pemba-sherpa-rebuild-sengma-nepal/345598#.VUKOhSKFon0.facebook
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Apr 30, 2015 - 02:07pm PT
Bump for Nepal.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Apr 30, 2015 - 04:11pm PT
Aftershock pattern indicates a WNW-trending, low angle thrust above 30 Km depth. Many aftershocks close to Kathmandu.

Initial model of the M 7.8 Nepal earthquake as may be seen by an Interferometric Synthetic Aperture (InSAR) spacecraft such as Sentinal-1 or ALOS-2 and GPS. The model is based on USGS mechanism of a near horizontal fault and the location of aftershocks. This image shows a synthetic interferogram for a descending pass of –168°, 24 cm wavelength, elevation of 40°. Fault is 11° dip striking 295°. Maximum displacement vector is about 2.3 m. Color wrap is 24 cm per fringe.

http://geo-gateway.org/main.html
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 04:39pm PT
The Sengma Village appeal is just the kind of small NGO the government is taking funds from. I'm sure these guys will know that and hand carry the money to Nepal if they have to.

Oxfam has now published an editorial criticizing the Nepalese government for its attempt to take over all foreign aid so it seems they are trying to get money from the big organizations as well and direct everything when they can't even distribute drinking water in Kathmandu. One of the things the local Buddhist monks have been doing is renting tanker trucks and filling them with water to take to the various refugee camps.

There are also reports that food aid is being turned away at the Indian border and that tents and medicines are being taxed about 15% before being let into the country.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 04:48pm PT
That is good news from Annapurna!

And in layman's terms, I've read that parts of India shifted ten feet to the north and that the area around Kathmandu was raised 3 feet and that Everest is now an inch shorter.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Apr 30, 2015 - 04:49pm PT
There are also reports that food aid is being turned away at the Indian border and that tents and medicines are being taxed about 15% before being let into the country.

Disgraceful. Profiting off people's suffering.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Apr 30, 2015 - 04:58pm PT
There are also reports that food aid is being turned away at the Indian border and that tents and medicines are being taxed about 15% before being let into the country.

That is a level of venality hard to comprehend. I wonder if the ex-Maoists
are engaging in this?
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 05:00pm PT
Once they got into power, their leaders were no different. However, I wouldn't be surprised to hear that in many of the villages it was Maoists who led relief works.

There is even a small contingent of Tibetan Muslims (yes they exist) who are distributing relief to villages around Kathmandu.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Apr 30, 2015 - 05:46pm PT
This is an important thread. Thanks for starting it. It covers a pretty large spectrum of humankind of how they act and react as well as the physiology of our earth....and I use the word physiology on purpose.

Reilly and Jan's last two posts made me think once again, labeling people and counting them all the same in their labeled group doesn't always work. It's the individual and what they believe and how they respond. Muslim, Maoist, Christian, whatever, there are ones with hearts of kindness and there are those that are selfish, narrow in their beliefs and have no real love for their fellow humans.

Thinking of I Corinthians 13 right now. Perhaps one of the greatest pieces of literature on real love. A motto of my life, "no clanging bells", tho I fall short.

Still praying for Nepal and beginning to see some miracles. Peace, lynnie

philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
Apr 30, 2015 - 06:40pm PT
The ground is shaking bump.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 07:19pm PT
We just got a memo from the Ministry of Finance who says no relief materials are taxed as Nepal has signed an agreement to that effect already in 2007. Therefore the people paying tax at the border and airport are being extorted by individual officials.

You are supposed to clear relief materials with the Chief District Officer of the area your materials are going to and he is supposed to give you a stamp indicating you did what you said you would and didn't just import them duty free for yourself or friends. Of course that provides another opportunity for a "special fee".

As you can see, laws on the books don't alter ancient practices and those trying to make a fair and just system are also frustrated.
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
Apr 30, 2015 - 07:21pm PT
This is despicable. There has to be a way under the circumstances to circumvent these horrid little officials.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 07:26pm PT
Give them counterfeit dollars? :)

P.S. Black humor is a Nepalese specialty.

WBraun

climber
Apr 30, 2015 - 07:33pm PT
There has to be a way under the circumstances to circumvent these horrid little officials.


You need a bigger Official to over ride the little official.

This kind of corruption is everywhere.

Hell when we were on the Niger river in Africa a govt. speedboat pulled us over and demanded extortion of money.

We had the bigger official in the boat with us.

He produced his credentials and the little officials immediately scrammed, lol.

In Columbia they hijacked half our crew for extortion.

Again we had the bigger official and they imediately realesed our crew.


Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Mexico City, D.F.
Apr 30, 2015 - 08:30pm PT
My mom was a Red Cross volunteer and said that always happens. The local politicos always steal as much of the aid as they can. A lot of the Red Cross aid gets dissipated like that. Need to develop countermeasures, such as, get some politician or military general to promise it won't happen, get his cell phone number, then when you encounter this problem, take pictures of the corrupt official, and hope your buddy answers the phone. Then when you get permission to pass, poke that guy hard in the chest and tell him you'll make sure he goes to jail. That should impress everyone.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 08:43pm PT
Some of the best news to come out of this is how the Nepalese after being passive for centuries are taking things into their own hands despite the government and for the first time in history are reaching across tribal, ethnic and caste boundaries to do so. This might be the actual beginning of a unified country.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 10:24pm PT
We had a World Food Project where 50 lb. bags of flour had to be carried on someone's back for three days. The porters claimed that they were held up in the forest and thus arrived at the warehouse empty handed. The same bags of flour were for sale in the bazaar the next day, all of them stamped, "Free Gift of the People of the United States". We had to hire armed guards to trek beside the porters.
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
Apr 30, 2015 - 10:32pm PT
Some of the best news to come out of this is how the Nepalese after being passive for centuries are taking things into their own hands despite the government and for the first time in history are reaching across tribal, ethnic and caste boundaries to do so. This might be the actual beginning of a unified country.
Jan that is encouraging news. It is amazing that normally hostile countries are willing to work together for the common good. Now if only they were allowed to.


Werner do you suggest people contact the Embassies of their respective countries and ask that they intervene?
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 1, 2015 - 03:31am PT
hey there say, werner... wow, thanks for the 'higher up' share...

kind of a 'check mate'... higher play, wins...


helps us folks to understand the powerplays...
thank you...
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2015 - 10:23am PT
Six days after the quake, Nepal news has fallen off the front page of the New York Times which is probably about average for a major disaster.

Of course the real work of reconstruction has not even begun and I am still waiting to find a safe way to get money to my village without the government seizing it. I will for sure let everyone know when we get it figured out.

And now for some good news.

Our tax dollars at work.

USAID contributed 700 rolls of this heavy duty plastic tarp.




John M

climber
May 1, 2015 - 10:34am PT
I've read that parts of India shifted ten feet to the north and that the area around Kathmandu was raised 3 feet and that Everest is now an inch shorter.

wouldn't it be something if the solution to overcrowding on Everest was that it was no longer the tallest mountain. Of course then that would shift the burden to some other mountain.

I'm praying that the proper solutions are worked out in Nepal. That the people demand a better government and an end to the graft.

Thank you for keeping us updated Jan. I know that you have a heart for that country and those people, so I hope that your friends get the help that they need.
saa

Social climber
sadly, far away from yos and josh
May 2, 2015 - 05:54am PT
a few days after the quake, after info has arrived that everest climbers and other himalayan sites have been impacted....

on the taco, nepal earthquake posts are relagated to number 50 or so.


goodbye. I don't understand how I could feel part of such a community.
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
May 2, 2015 - 06:05am PT

More than a million souls are suffering.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
May 2, 2015 - 08:08am PT
It's encouraging to see that Himex is concentrating on the important things.

It seems that the media is all very ready to tell the world that I have made a decision to continue to climb on Everest, when in my last newsletter I said that we would assess the situation: the ministry, the expedition operations association, my team, the Sherpas as well as the scale of the disaster in the whole country had to be considered. At that stage I had not made a decision as there were so many factors to be considered. Now having considered all facts, I can tell you that we will not be continuing any of our ascents in Nepal this season.


http://himalayanexperience.com/newsletters/everest-2015/the-daily-moraine-2015-4-everest-decision#.dpuf
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2015 - 10:31am PT
On the good news side.

An article on the government's attempt to grab the funds of small scale donors and how after a big backlash (surprise!), and the threat to cut off further funds to Nepal, the government has backed down, saying that all that is required now is to send an email to the Social Welfare Council and the Chief District Officer telling them how much is being sent and where it will go. Needless to say, those emails will go out after the aid is distributed, so it can't be seized on the way.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/asia/nepal/11577706/Nepal-aid-donors-may-halt-fundraising-amid-fears-government-will-seize-donations.html

I'm still waiting for a report and photos from my village. The local reincarnate lama and a friend of mine flew in the rescue helicopter up to the village with tarps, meds and food, and then walked the four days back with the young boys who were attending a Buddhist school up there.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2015 - 10:55am PT
And U.S. Marines to the rescue !

Brigadier General Paul Kennedy of the US Marine Corps said The U.S. is sending four tilt-rotor V-22 Osprey aircraft along with three Huey helicopters, four Air Force C-17 Globemasters and two Marine Corps KC-130's along with 150 military personnel to Nepal to boost earthquake relief efforts.

“We are bringing in significant capacity,” Kennedy said Friday of the U.S. assets, which will include Air Force personnel out of Guam who can control air traffic, repair airfields and offload supplies with heavy equipment.

Ospreys have seen extensive service in Afghanistan and deployed to the Philippines during relief efforts after Typhoon Haiyan in the Philippines in 2013. Flying in the Himalayas will be a new challenge, Kennedy said. They have never been in anything that approximates this.
(No Kidding!)

The response of Army Special Forces troops out of Okinawa, who were doing cold weather training in Nepal when the earthquake struck, has been impressive, Kennedy said.

They went to Mount Everest and started pulling people out,” he said. “It wasn’t just at Base Camp. They went up the mountain and they were pulling people out. The soldiers recovered the body of Google executive Dan Fredinburg from the mountain.

As soon as they were done with that, they were down here going out to villages doing first-aid and even search-and-rescue,” he said.

(excerpted from Pacific Stars and Stripes)
Greg Barnes

climber
May 2, 2015 - 04:37pm PT
Nepal quake: Airport customs holding up aid relief - UN

http://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-32564891
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Mexico City, D.F.
May 2, 2015 - 04:57pm PT
Anyone who would even contemplate climbing Everest after this earthquake should be banned from the country forever. I was a little disburbed by all the helicopters rescuing climbers from EBC, but then after thinking a little more, they have to save all the foreign tourists first. The entire economy of Nepal depends on tourism, and harming the tourist industry could hurt Nepal even more in the long run.

Should we rescue the Everest climbers?

* a better idea: don't ban them from the country forever, but mercilessly ridicule them on the internet for all time. The reason they're climbing it in the first place is to try to impress other people.
John M

climber
May 2, 2015 - 05:24pm PT
Anyone who would even contemplate climbing Everest after this earthquake should be banned from the country forever. I was a little disburbed by all the helicopters rescuing climbers from EBC, but then after thinking a little more, they have to save all the foreign tourists first. The entire economy of Nepal depends on tourism, and harming the tourist industry could hurt Nepal even more in the long run.

If this is true..

The entire economy of Nepal depends on tourism, and harming the tourist industry could hurt Nepal even more in the long run

Then aren't you suggesting long term harm to Nepal's economy with this statement?

Anyone who would even contemplate climbing Everest after this earthquake should be banned from the country forever.

Everest is dangerous, but how often do such large earthquakes happen? What you are suggesting is to harm the nations economy because of rare occurrences.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2015 - 06:04pm PT
Unfortunately on the Tibetan calendar, next year is also supposed to be a bad year. That will be three in a row.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Mexico City, D.F.
May 2, 2015 - 06:06pm PT
John M - not sure I understand your comments but it's definitely a dilemma.

Here's another one:

For one of its clients, millionaire Texas realtor David McGrain, it should never have taken that long to call off the climb, given thousands of people had been killed in the valleys below as well as 18 in an avalanche at base camp itself. "The narcissism among some of my team mates made me want to vomit," McGrain said after leaving the camp by helicopter for the town of Lukla on Wednesday. "All they could think about was their goddamn climb, when hours before we were holding crushed skulls in our hands."
John M

climber
May 2, 2015 - 06:26pm PT
http://himalayanexperience.com/newsletters/everest-2015/the-daily-moraine-2015-4-everest-decision#.dpuf

Hey Don. My apologies. . I misunderstood the first part of your statement. I thought that you said that no one should climb Everest ever again.

It is a dilemma, and after rereading you statement, I see that you weren't saying that no one should ever climb Everest again. Just that they should not climb it immediately after this earthquake, which eventually was the decision.

the link that Big Mike posted is worth reading. The decision to climb or not had not been made, and part of the reason was that not everything was known at base camp and the Sherpas depend on making much of their money during that season, so much was at stake.

Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2015 - 08:54pm PT
It turns out a U.S. Special Forces team from my old home of Okinawa was in Nepal when the earthquake happened and they flew some of the people out of Base Camp. They also rescued people from Langtang who were trapped there. I wonder if any of them were my old students?
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
May 2, 2015 - 08:54pm PT
Thanks for letting us know about the Marine help, Jan. My nephew is a heli pilot in the Marines and we are proud of all he does around the world.

I also appreciate each of you that contribute to this Thread. Let's not let it wander off our radar.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
May 2, 2015 - 09:11pm PT
Unfortunately on the Tibetan calendar, next year is also supposed to be a bad year. That will be three in a row.

Frightening, considering the unprecedented 2014 tragedy and now an exponentially greater nightmare for 2015.

Thank you so much Jan for all you've poured into this.

Best to all.
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
May 3, 2015 - 04:20am PT
I happen to be at John Porter's house, in the UK, at the moment, and John is meeting up with Doug Scott, shortly, to deliver quite a few sleeping bags, which will be sent Monday to Nepal.

The shipment is being flown over by the British military by the Ghurka's, who will make sure it gets delivered directly to the people in need.

Chris Bonnington was here last night, who is also involved with this effort.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 3, 2015 - 07:17am PT
hey there say, steve A... wow, hope they get there well and good... and thanks so much for sharing...

:)
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2015 - 10:54am PT
The New York Times is calling it like it is:

Nepal's Bureaucracy is blamed as Quake Relief Supplies Pile Up

Let us hope that the 150 U.S. Marines who sat on the runway in Okinawa for 72 hours awaiting permission to land in Kathmandu, U.S. helicopters and our Air Traffic Controllers can help straighten out the mess. If a 150 Marines can't do it then nobody can.



http://www.nytimes.com/2015/05/04/world/asia/nepals-bureaucracy-is-blamed-as-quake-relief-supplies-pile-up.html?hp&action=click&pgtype=Homepage&module=first-column-region®ion=top-news&WT.nav=top-news

And here they are:


Our tax dollars at work


The size of things


Not anticipated. No Off loading Equipment at the Airport


An invasion of Aid


A Novel Sight


Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2015 - 11:50am PT
And this just in.

The Nepalese Politicians Caved!

Leaders of the three major political parties in the coalition government have just declared that anyone is free to distribute aid anywhere they want to.

That's a huge victory for international aid and Nepalese poor people.


Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2015 - 12:27pm PT
And here's a good article by Freddie Wilkenson which quotes Sherpas from my village posting on Facebook and asks a question a lot of us have pondered.

Who Controls Nepal's Helicopters?


https://foreignpolicy.com/2015/05/02/nepal-helicopters-earthquake-relief-everest/
cleo

Social climber
wherever you go, there you are
May 3, 2015 - 01:03pm PT
Thanks from those photos of the marine response - nice to see Jan
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
May 3, 2015 - 01:18pm PT
Nice to see those machines doing works for something good!

Thanks Jan:-)
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
May 3, 2015 - 01:21pm PT
John Porter just received word that there has been a new aftershock which has further damaged the Kathmandu runway. The shipment of aid from the UK
will have to go thru India, rather than directly to Nepal, which obviously complicates this effort.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2015 - 02:28pm PT
Sounds like we need to send helicopters to India to ferry goods up from there.

Here's the best article yet on the scene at Everest Base Camp and the heli rescues there.

http://www.washingtonpost.com/world/a-minute-of-horror-then-hours-of-panic-on-the-path-to-mount-everest/2015/05/02/8088b96a-ef61-11e4-8050-839e9234b303_story.html?wpisrc=nl_headlines&wpmm=1
Joron

Trad climber
Hoodland, Oregon
May 4, 2015 - 09:23am PT
I recently learned that Nima Sherpa, longtime friend and sirdar on our last four expeditions, is safe but living in a tent in Kathmandu. For many years Nima has also led treks with Tom Carter of Moon Expeditions. The past ten years their porters have come from the Tamang Village of Gran in the Langtang region. Tom learned that the village lacked adequate water supply so was asked by porters to assist. So, Tom raised the money and with Nima supervising the project, the village was able to install a new water system. Tom’s video of the project is a nice documentary of life in Nepal and the spirit and strength of the people. And a testament to what a difference one person can make.

Gran was 90% flattened in the earthquake with six hundred now homeless.

[Click to View YouTube Video]
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
May 4, 2015 - 06:19pm PT
Nepal Sherpas refuse to rebuild Everest climbing route destroyed by earthquake

Bad weather from melting ice and monsoon rains will leave too little time, say Sherpas, who will lose from cancellation of Everest climbing season


KATHMANDU, NEPAL—Sherpas in Nepal have refused to rebuild the approach route to the south side of Mount Everest, which was destroyed by an earthquake-triggered avalanche more than one week ago, a decision which will likely end this year’s climbing season.

Gyanendra Shrestha, an official at Nepal’s Mountaineering Department, said the Sherpas informed the office on Monday that they were not going to rebuild the route through the dangerous Khumbu Icefall.

It would be the second consecutive year that the climbing season has been called off because of deaths on the world’s highest peak. The climbing season was cancelled last year after an avalanche in April that killed 16 Sherpa and Nepali porters.

Mountaineering teams have until the end of the month to attempt to climb the peak, but without the route fixed it is not be possible for them to make their climbs. The Sherpas play a crucial role by bringing the ladders, ropes and equipment needed to clear the trail.

Kapindra Rai of the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee, which governs the “Icefall Doctors,” as the Sherpa guides who prepare the approach ahead of the actual mountaineers are called, said there was not much time left in the season before it starts to get warmer and melting ice and monsoon rains bring bad weather.

“It is just not possible to rebuild the route in time for climbers to attempt to scale the peak,” Rai said, although a formal decision has not been made yet.

Climbers and Sherpas attempting to reach the summit from the north face of the mountain in Tibet have already packed their gear and left after Chinese authorities closed all climbing for the spring season.

The Sherpas are paid daily wages but will also lose the big bonuses they generally receive from the teams after successful climbs to the peak. sites in Kathmandu.

Meanwhile, the Nepalese government is asking foreign search-and-rescue teams to leave, now that the likelihood of finding survivors buried by last month’s earthquake has largely passed.

“We have already asked (foreign rescue teams) to go home,” said Laxmi Prasad Dhakal, a Home Ministry spokesman. Noting that roughly half the 4,000 rescuers had already left, “I think all the rescuers will go to their respective countries by Friday,” he added.

There seems almost no chance that anyone alive is still trapped amid the rubble from the quake, which struck just before noon April 25.

On Sunday, though, three survivors were found in the Sindhupalchok district, an especially hard-hit and largely rural area north of Kathmandu.

The official death toll now exceeds 7,300.

Dr. Ian Norton, head of the World Health Organization’s program of foreign medical teams, praised the government’s announcement, which he said would free up airport facilities and other resources.

“More is not better at this point,” Norton said. “If you’re not contributing, you need to make way for those who are.”

Norton said the thousands of rescuers had saved a total of 16 people in the aftermath of the quake, and that about 50 foreign medical teams comprising nearly 10,000 people had saved hundreds of lives.

After the Haiti earthquake in 2010, nearly 2,000 rescuers saved 13 people, but nearly 30,000 Haitians died because of a lack of proper medical care, Norton said.

“I’m not saying rescue teams are bad, but there needs to be a balance,” Norton said. “This announcement by the Nepali government is completely appropriate.”

Dhakal explained that many rescue teams are refusing to take part in the task of recovering dead bodies from the still-towering piles of rubble in some parts of Kathmandu, “so their relevance is now over.”
With files from The New York Times

http://www.thestar.com/news/world/2015/05/04/nepal-sherpas-refuse-to-rebuild-everest-climbing-route-destroyed-by-earthquake.html
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2015 - 07:08pm PT
That's a wonderful video Joron. It really shows the essence of life in a Tamang village. The sad thing about the Tamangs is that they used to be quite prosperous but their forests in the valleys north of Kathmandu were cut down to build the Rana palaces in the city and then they were slowly forced up the mountain sides into the less fertile land.
TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
May 4, 2015 - 10:17pm PT
Thank you, Jan
Joron

Trad climber
Hoodland, Oregon
May 5, 2015 - 08:35am PT
Jan, glad you liked the video. For me, it brought back so many memories of Nepal. Your insights on everything Nepali is greatly appreciated.

Also, received this letter written by a Canadian couple living in Nepal:

This is an incredible letter. Please read it. When the Nepal gov't controls the allocation of relief money and volunteers from around the world, I fear first, for immense bungling and secondly for a mis-allocation of funds, a lining of pockets, by the "have" political families of Nepal.

The world media is awash in images of death and devastation in Nepal. It’s an oddly schizophrenic experience to be ‘watching’ the current crisis from the dual perspectives of participant and observer — both on the ground and over the Internet. That’s life in a disaster zone in the Information Age.

We live in Dhobighat, a relatively new neighbourhood of Kathmandu, and our street is tiny but always busy: an overgrown, badly-paved footpath travelled every day by noisy schoolchildren, motorcycles, vegetable carts, honking taxis, young women arm in arm, gleefully reckless children on bicycles, and old people out for a walk because their daughters remind them that it’s good for them. It’s a middle-class neighbourhood, congested and chatty, and at sundown everybody goes to the dhobi — the communal well after which the area is named — to gossip and watch the boys play a little football, and to fill up their water containers for the night.

We live here because we work at the local international school, teaching the kids of ex-pat families and local folk who want an international education for their children. It’s a nice school, and our students are great — creative, thoughtful young people who have seen something of the world and who are building the skills (we hope) to act on their plans for a better world. It’s an immediate community of more than six hundred people, and all us survived the quake — the students and their immediate families, workers and support staff, teachers and all.

Dhobighat is a mess right now, but we know we’ve been very lucky. Houses have collapsed. A small child was killed nearby. We’re worried about our students, of course; many of them have been sleeping in the streets or in parks since the earthquake hit Saturday, and they’re all far too young to deal with this emotionally. But we’re getting something organized at the school for those who can make it in, and online for those who have Internet but can’t travel. People in Dhobighat have lost much. Some have lost everything. But this is a relatively wealthy and well-built part of town. Most people in our neighbourhood survived. We’ve already started cleaning up.

It’s a different story out in the countryside, and in the poorer parts of town. Many of our friends’ villages were devastated. Others are just … gone, wiped out, their families with them.

There are no words to describe this. The dhobi is full of people today — they’ve been sleeping there, under tarpaulins — but nobody’s talking much. Everyone knows everyone, which means everyone knows where everyone else’s family was when the quake struck — the parents, the little nieces and nephews, the old aunties and uncles, the friends, their villages, their farms. Everyone knows, so there’s no need to ask and not much to say. Nepal deserves better. These are hardworking, capable people who are probably more stoic than is good for them. Their suffering was caused not by the earth shifting but by the constant, grinding movement of resources away from those who have not, toward those who already have.The children mostly seem as riotous as ever, kicking old soccer balls around.

Most of the people who died were already living in desperate poverty. Their homes were ancient and picturesque because they couldn’t afford to build newer, safer ones. All Nepalis know how dangerous those old buildings are; they talk about it all the time. These close-knit families watch their grown children leave Nepal by the thousands, every year, to work in dangerous, underpaid jobs abroad so that they can send money back to Nepal to build better homes. It’s never enough.

Some other time, I’ll write about the many acts of generosity, friendliness, solidarity and resolute cheerfulness that we see here every day, even now. I am moved more than I can say by the uncomplaining courage and dignity of my neighbours and the people of Nepal. The man at little shop — who lost everything and whose name I don’t even know — asking me if my daughter was okay. My little friend Felix, age five, telling me pointedly that he’d like to help with those dishes — but not until I put my helmet on for protection. The kids camped in the field next door, sharing their rice with a street dog. The women laughing as they lurch toward a makeshift laundry line, staggering under the weight of rain-soaked bedding.

But right now all I can think is this: Nepal deserves better. These are hardworking, capable people who are probably more stoic than is good for them. Their suffering was caused not by the earth shifting but by the constant, grinding movement of resources away from those who have not, toward those who already have.

An event of this magnitude does things to your head. Here at our house everybody’s coping, but nobody’s finishing sentences. We’re moving slowly and having a difficult time staying focused. Questions get asked, nobody answers and no one notices. Decisions are made and we forget to act on them.

It all feels strangely familiar. There are terrible forces at work here — and I’m not talking about earthquakes. Since Saturday I have received an embarrassing number of concerned emails, from our friends all over the world, and from many people I’ve never even met, and they’re all worried and sad, and they all want to know what they can do to help. Sometimes people are cynical about that sort of thing; the phrase ‘disaster porn’ has been floating around town, and we all recognize that ugly phenomenon when we see it.

But this is different. People should want to help out, and they do. Our empathy — the thing that drives us to communicate, to reach out to one another and be part of another’s experience — is what our overgrown frontal lobes are all about. It’s why we have social media in the first place.

For the many good people who have something to spare and who want to help, my best advice is to first look around and find some locally-based organization with roots in the community, here in Nepal. Be as sure as you can be that they’ll use the money here on the ground, first to provide emergency services and then to rebuild — and to make it safer this time. I’ve heard of people pledging support for a family for a year, during the rebuilding. That seems like a good idea to me.

In the longer term, what we can all do is stop getting caught up in systems that leave us disempowered and smother our better instincts. We can elect governments that will ensure a more equitable world, in which countries like Nepal are not impoverished by unjust economic structures. We can demand change.

The problem here isn’t earthquakes. It’s poverty. And that isn’t really news.

Renee Comesotti is from Vancouver. She and her partner, Brad Waugh, work at the Lincoln School in Kathmandu; she teaches literature and he’s the secondary principal. They’ve taught abroad for nearly fourteen years.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 5, 2015 - 10:40am PT
hey there say, joron... thank you for sharing... some of us, can't do anything, but at least we can pray...

long time back, when i was learning various languages, though never got to finish, i remember learning more about the nepalese folks, and i loved looking at the few stories that i found, from folks that knew them...

when you and jan, share, and the other, as to the folks they have met, during travels, and living there:
i can surely see how my heart always leaned towards them... and all these years...

i was so very sad to have seen this happened to them... am still adding my prayers, it sure won't bring the families back, but it can help seeds to grow, for the changes that they need...

to all that can... prayers as you keep up the good long hard work...

philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
May 5, 2015 - 12:55pm PT

Bump for the suffering children.
stevep

Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
May 6, 2015 - 05:17am PT
Langtang...

http://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-32585356

Gone.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
May 6, 2015 - 07:44am PT
Sobering, even with the best building standards, what would have stood in that slide?
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 05:03pm PT
That is a very moving story. I had seen the names in the news but now I feel like I know them.

Here's a totally different type of article especially for Fritz since he is interested in the Mustang area. It turns out the quake diverted some of the Kali Gandaki river due to crevasses opened up in the soil after the earthquake.

https://waterwedoing.wordpress.com/2015/05/06/a-peculiar-case-arises/

In the Kathmandu Valley by contrast, people noted that the water in some of their wells had risen three feet the month before the quake while nearby villages reported the appearance of new springs. Long term consequences to the hydrology of Nepal can only be speculated at this time.

https://waterwedoing.wordpress.com/2015/05/05/wrung-mountains-changed-hydrology/
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
May 6, 2015 - 08:21pm PT
Jan: Thanks for sharing the post about river-related earthquake damage in Jomsom. I spent two nights there in 2008 at the start & end of our Mustang trek.

It appears that the Nepal earthquake damage was far more severe to the east of Mustang. So far the only report my Nepal friends have shared from Mustang, is one post that a friend had survived the eathquake.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Mexico City, D.F.
May 6, 2015 - 09:07pm PT
Here's a climber we can be proud of - link courtesy of the Enormocast:

Rock climber/nurse in Nepal: "The outlook is bleak."
feralfae

Boulder climber
in the midst of a metaphysical mystery
May 7, 2015 - 08:10am PT
Jan,
Have the Chinese people moved in with a lot of aid? Much of the stuff we are trying to get through to those who need it, is probably stuff being made for western trade at factories in China. Sleeping bags, tents. Is there international coordination of relief efforts going on through Oxfam or AFSC or other NGO groups?

Oh, I must say this today in memory of Doug, who would point it out if he were still typing away: we need better smuggling routes so we can shift goods during emergencies while avoiding the red tape and yellow paper of bureaucrats and politicians. Humans are so wonderfully humanitarian on their own, but seem to become less so when in positions of political power. Today is the three year, three month anniversary of Doug's escape.

So, in Doug's memory, one of the most generous people I have ever known, I just want to encourage everyone to do their best to help out this tribe of our human family, who are so severely traumatized and suffering. They need to know we hold them in our hearts even if we cannot be there with them.

namaste,
fae

Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2015 - 12:15pm PT
The Chinese are very active in Nepal. They are in competition with India among other things. They had a search and rescue team there the next morning. They have just sent 500 workers and heavy equipment to open up the road from Kathmandu to the Tibetan border which will facilitate relief supplies coming overland. They gave free hotels, meals and flights home to all the Sherpas and Nepalese workers stuck on the north side of Everest because the road is not opened yet. As for smuggling, the hardest thing was getting money in after the govt. announced to seize contributions. That is over now and I just got the maximum payment through to Kathmandu by Western Union yesterday. All the major aid groups are there and many smaller ones. There is a thread about that on Super Topo.

Another thing we can do is go there as tourists. Here is a statement from a former member of the Nepal Tourism Board.

Please Do not Cancel your trip to Nepal” : Basu Tripathi
| 06 May 2015 09:29


Respected Diplomatic Missions to Nepal, Dear Friends of Nepal/travelers around the world,


** Although historic monuments in Kathmandu valley, Everest Summiteers and Langtang area were strongly affected, other tourism attractions are almost unaffected. Pokhara, Lumbini, Annapurna , Chitwan,Tansen, Bandipure, Bardia etc are almost not affected.

All airports in the country are not affected .**

You should not cancel any Nepal Trip rather encourage others to visit Nepal for the following reasons;

1. Natural calamities such as Earthquake, Sunami are not predictable. But they do not normally repeat in the same place in short span of time. Nepal had such earthquake in 1934, which is 82 years ago.

2. With the due support of the world, we have almost completed search and rescue operation and the international rescue teams have returned home. Means, the life is gradually being normal.

3. There is no any problem of transport, accommodation and activities for tourists all around the country. All hotels in Kathmandu, Pokhara, Chitwan, Luimbini, Bardia and other tourist destinations are open.

**4. The international airport and all domestic airports were not affected by earthquake and all are in operation

5. All services including on arrival visa at the airport are provided regularly

6. All national and international airlines are providing their services regularly.

7. All trekking /hiking routes are open and all permits for these routes are being provided as usual.**

8. Nepal Government, Ministry of Tourism , Nepal Tourism Board, all tourism Entrepreneurs’ Associations are committed to make your Nepal Trip easy, comfortable, safe and guaranteed.

9. As the whole nation is united to minimize the effect, there is no political disturbance. No strike, no closure and all are ready for tourist services.

10. The international support in providing immediate relief/rescue is highly appreciated. Now, it is the phase of bringing other businesses in usual order.

Conclusion
As we could not stop such calamity, it happened. The whole world joined hands and united souls with Nepal to fight in minimizing it’s effects. Now is the phase of “survival of survived ones.”Each of us should help to live normal life for the survived people. For this, we need to try to build environment as normal as it was before.

We need to try our best to make affected ones to forget the pain of the calamity. **Tourism can be an immediate tool to make people active, busy and optimistic .Thus, we appeal all Embassies, Diplomatic Missions and Consulates to issue positive travel advisories about Nepal. Likewise, we request all friends of Nepal and Nepalese around the world not to cancel your Nepal Tours rather encourage others such as your friends, relatives and family members to travel Nepal. This will be a great help to rebuild our nation on the one hand, and your trip will be really memorable on the other hand.
**
Mr Tripathi is former member of NTB

 See more at: http://www.newsnrn.com/2015/05/06/12480/#sthash.j0VoN0XM.dpuf

See also:

I'm helping jobless Sherpas find work.

http://money.cnn.com/2015/05/06/news/nepal-quake-sherpa-tourism/
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2015 - 07:18pm PT
Ten Positives from the Earthquake


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ft6_94OLCcA&sns=fb
feralfae

Boulder climber
in the midst of a metaphysical mystery
May 7, 2015 - 08:27pm PT
Thank you Jan for the excellent synopsis.
I will pass the word on the need to continue tourism.
Thank you.
feralfae
Dover

Trad climber
New England
May 8, 2015 - 09:32am PT
Ten Positives from the Earthquake


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ft6_94OLCcA&sns=fb

This was really special. Thanks for posting this.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2015 - 07:55pm PT
It never ends!

Another aftershock yesterday afternoon of 4.6.

That one brought down most of the remaining houses in my village. It's not as bad as Langtang but there are significant avalanches and rockfall ongoing. Worse yet, Rolwaling Valley just to the west of Khumbu is home to the world's largest and deepest glacial lake which is dammed mainly by an ice moraine. If that gives, there will be a wall of water 30-60 feet high that goes all the way into India.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
May 9, 2015 - 08:08pm PT
I was headed up to the Indian Himalaya on the 25th of April. On the road we got word that there was an earthquake that affected places in India and maybe the road was closed (no word on Nepal) the road was actually open and we hadn't felt any earthquake on the drive and people didn't seem excited. A few days later there was a huge rockslide that closed the road I came in on but by the time I was ready to leave (11 days later) the road had just reopened.

The Nepal quake is such a heartbreaker as they are the sweetest people ever. I've trekked there a couple times and many of the workers in India where I hang out (particularly in the restaurants) are from Nepal since, amazingly, the economy is better in India.

I have a good friend with a huge heart whom I trust who lives in Nepal and has a great sense of what needs to be done and how to do it avoiding graft and corruption. You can follow some of his relief efforts on Facebook. they are making a special effort to get to more isolated areas, which tend to get neglected according a a swami I spent yesterday with on the bus

His profile is

https://www.facebook.com/thelovecompanyworld

If anyone would like to help out his efforts, which I trust are efficient and because he's not a guy whose overhead will eat up the cash, there's some bank info in one of his updates posted below. Even easier is paypal or western union which I will post first.

paypal address is "jaysighn108@gmail.com"

western union "James Bradford Moore"


April 30th report from Baba Jay
Earthquake report. I am back in Pokhara for more supplies. We have a team collecting cash and supplies through restaurants and kind hearted tourists. Our headquarters is himalayan java on lakeside. Much money is coming to our Paypal accounts with bank accounts in other countries. Western union was down, it may be up now. Best way is our local bank accounts where we can withdraw as much as possible. Bank info
James bradford moore
A/C no. 5310017500005
Nabil bank limited
Branch: lakeside
Swift code: NARBNPKA
Update The rain started last night and has not stopped. Our 3 international NGOs who we met last night have arrived on the seen, the army has also arrived . With the rain it is not possible to move further into the devastated area, everyone is waiting. God bless everyone

(note, that update was from April 30th. Western Union is back up and I'm sure the convenience of paypal makes up for its limitations so feel free to drop even a tiny amount of cash since it goes a long way in Nepal.

climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
May 12, 2015 - 09:23am PT
Another one.. 7.3

It's too much :(
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2015 - 09:37am PT
It's definitely too much! Since the first quake Nepal has had 156 aftershocks of more than 4.0 and now this. The epicenter was just a few miles from my village. Luckily everyone survived again, this time because they were already sleeping in tents at 13,000'. Their houses however, are completely finished!
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
May 12, 2015 - 11:42am PT
http://hosted.ap.org/dynamic/stories/U/US_NEPAL_EARTHQUAKE_MISSING_HELICOPTER?SITE=AP&SECTION=HOME&TEMPLATE=DEFAULT&CTIME=2015-05-12-13-26-56

USMC chopper missing
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
May 12, 2015 - 02:58pm PT
today's epicenter appears to be about as far east of Kathmandu as the Apr 25 quake was to the west.

Crazy Bat

Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
May 12, 2015 - 04:20pm PT
So glad there were no climbers on the mountain.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2015 - 05:01pm PT
Yes, in retrospect it was a very good idea to close Everest to climbing for the season.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
May 12, 2015 - 05:07pm PT
Still so much going on......prayers along with love and hope to all.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
May 17, 2015 - 05:26pm PT
A sad, but very interesting first-person story about how the Langtang area was devastated by an avalanche caused by last week's 7.3 Earthquake.


Nepal earthquake: the village wiped off the map in a few terrifying seconds

The beautiful Langtang valley was almost obliterated when the second quake hit last week, reducing a popular trekking village to rubble

http://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/may/17/nepal-earthquake-langtang-village-everyone-was-dead
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2015 - 08:03pm PT
And there were three aftershocks again yesterday, one on each of the two epicenters. One was again near my village and measured 5.6 while geologists have said that aftershocks hardly ever measure more than 4.0. Let us hope that was the final settling crunch!
feralfae

Boulder climber
in the midst of a metaphysical mystery
May 17, 2015 - 09:28pm PT
Jan,
Yes, please let this be the last crunch!
I hope the relief supplies and assistance are continuing to flow even with these latest aftershocks.
Prayers and all best wishes to you and everyone.
feralfae
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 17, 2015 - 10:39pm PT
hey there say, jan, and all... just stepping in to join you all... still will be praying...

wont' forget about them... :(
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2015 - 08:44pm PT
Unfortunately it wasn't the last crunch. They just had another 5.0 with the epicenter northwest of Kathmandu yesterday. When will it end?
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
May 25, 2015 - 10:44pm PT
So many stories out there... don't forget..please help.

http://www.seattlepi.com/aboutus/article/Diary-A-U-S-surgeon-treats-Nepali-earthquake-6285546.php
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2015 - 11:02pm PT
These Photos are from Tatopani on the road to the Tibeto-Chinese border.



neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 25, 2015 - 11:05pm PT
hey there say, jan... and all... thanks for the update...

say, jan... i thought i heard something about a lake, up there somewhere????
on the news, yesterday, on radio, that said:

something about it filling up and may flood over, ??
and what? flood a village?

i did not catch it all, ... do you know, or have you heard anything...
i will try to do a search, later... and will let you know, if i find anything... just reminded me to pray more, again...
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
May 25, 2015 - 11:33pm PT
holy cow! All that more jus today : (

Not many places to run for safety on that street.

sending more prayers.....
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2015 - 11:54pm PT
Neebee, the Kali Gandaki, a major river that empties into the Ganges eventually, was blocked by a land slide and formed a lake 900 feet deep. Fortunately, before the army could appear with dynamite, the river forged a way through the land slide and caused minor flooding on the way down, but relived the extreme pressure and danger. One more crisis averted.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2015 - 11:08am PT
And now for an upbeat report on the reconstruction of the major tourist area of Khumbu which is the gateway to Everest.

The Khumbu Open for Business - Almost.


http://peopleyoumeetalongtheway.blogspot.co.nz/2015/05/earthquake-report-khumbu-open-for.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+ThePeopleYouMeetAlongTheWay+%28The+People+You+Meet+Along+the+Way....%29
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 26, 2015 - 11:48am PT
hey there say, jan... thank you so much! for sharinag, :)
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
May 26, 2015 - 05:00pm PT
please help
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
May 26, 2015 - 06:58pm PT
Jan: Thanks for keeping this thread alive. Your last link:
The Khumbu Open for Business - Almost.

is very interesting for anyone familiar with the trekkers route up to Everest.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2015 - 09:20pm PT
June 8 was the first day in Nepal since the big quake on the 25th of April that there were no aftershocks!

Between April 25 and June 8, there were 304 shocks of 4.0 or greater and a second quake of 7.3 on May 12.

May this be the end of them!
zBrown

Ice climber
Jun 9, 2015 - 07:32am PT
I don't understand why the civilian deaths were not reported, but?

Nepal families of US copter crash victims seek compensation

Read more at:
http://economictimes.indiatimes.com/articleshow/47593364.cms?utm_source=contentofinterest&utm_medium=text&utm_campaign=cppst
feralfae

Boulder climber
in the midst of a metaphysical mystery
Jun 9, 2015 - 08:27am PT
Jan wrote:
Between April 25 and June 8, there were 304 shocks of 4.0 or greater and a second quake of 7.3 on May 12.
May this be the end of them!

Amen, Jan, Amen.

ff
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2015 - 09:47am PT
zBrown, neither our government nor theirs knew that they had picked up civilians for transport to Kathmandu. Then they found extra bodies and had to inquire around and finally got the names of the villagers who had been loaded on. There is also some suggestion now that maybe the chopper was overloaded and that's why it crashed.
zBrown

Ice climber
Jun 9, 2015 - 10:01am PT
It's big news in San Diego because the crew was out of Camp Pendleton.

Indications are there were six U.S. and two Nepalese military personnel and 5 civilians.

Helicopter was an upgraded UH-1Y Huey "capable of carrying eight combat-loaded troops in addition to it's four-person crew, or a maximum useful load of 6,661 pounds"
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2015 - 01:06pm PT
There's been some talk of it running out of fuel. My first thought that someone syphoned off some fuel or didn't fill it completely, but I would have thought the Americans would not have trusted any other nationality to do that.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jun 9, 2015 - 01:25pm PT
13 SOB's (Souls On Board) is a LOT for a UH-1, especially at altitude.
Granted, those people are small but then how can you fault the Marines for
doing their best to save people? The pilot probably figured "If I can get
this lot 20' off the ground we're good to go." That works fine at lower
altitudes but your flight envelope is much more compressed higher up which
means a downdraft could be very bad. More than likely something broke as
our military pilots are overwhelmingly very good.

edit:
I didn't see Jan's post about running out of fuel. That is very hard to believe.

edit 2: That 6600 lb useful load includes fuel and must be adjusted for altitude.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2015 - 02:45pm PT
The villkages they were visiting were not particularly high altitude, at least as far as Nerpal goes. They were all around 6,000 feet ad certainly no higher than 8,000.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jun 9, 2015 - 02:49pm PT
Well 6-8000' combined with high temps and humidity is fairly significant.
That 'Y' model is significantly more powerful than the older ones I'm
familiar with but if they had a significant fuel load then their margin of
excess power could have been much narrower. Hard to say without more data.
Crazy Bat

Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
Jun 10, 2015 - 03:28pm PT
That link did not work for me. I would love to read it though.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2015 - 07:09pm PT
Here's a first hand account of what it was like in Everest Base Camp after the earthquake caused avalanche. It was written by a Sherpa from my villlage and features many other Sherpas from Rolwaling. Definitely a gripping story but not for those who are squeamish about medical problems. Reilly and other EMT's will love it.




Mega Avalanche at Everest base camp by mega earthquake

                   Worst day of my life (25-04-2015)
                                  Report by Mingma


 
I watched a video in which 12 Nepalese were killed by Iraqi Militant in Baghdad on 31st August 2004. One of them was beheaded and remaining 11 were gunned. I watched that video with friends and it was ok that moment but the deadly sound of cutting the neck of Nepalese lived in my mind since then. Whenever I see dead bodies or killing, I remember that video and it gives too much pain on my mind.
 
The incident on 25-05-2015 is another worst incident that remained in my mind. I am having same problem right from now.


 
On 24th April, all our Sherpa team went to camp-I and camp-II for the first time and were back to base camp on same day. The climbing members were taken to ice fall for climbing and ladder walking practice.  It looked every one were tired and the weather report also showed to be worsen for 25th and 26th April with period of moderate to heavy snow fall including Khumbu area. Depending on that weather report, I made the plan to give rest day to all the members and staffs.


 
 The day was little colder and clouded from the morning on 25th April. We all had rest day. There was nothing to do at day time so I just planned to visit some of friends whose camps were at the top of base camp. Taking Kaji and Furba(elder), we went to the camp where Lingsang, Eric and Niuro spent the night later on that night.  We were there chatting with friends and then it started snowing so we thought to spend little more time but there came earthquake. After few minutes, we just heard sound of avalanche but we were not sure where it was coming from. We could hear sound from all direction. It must be because of avalanche in all direction or echo sound. Within few seconds, we saw big avalanche so close and so fast covering base camp. We tried to hide inside the tent but we were covered by too much snow. We saw broken tents around so we quickly ran towards our camp. It was difficult to point out our campsite because most of the places were looking same with broken tents.


I could point out the position of our camp after seeing HRA (Himalayan Rescue Association)’s half broken big tent. I just entered the campsite, I saw nothing left there. I first saw Chinese climber, Baoli lying there. He can’t stand and his head was cut off but he was looking not that bad. Then I move towards Marc and he was very close to Baoli and lying there with hanging cut skin on his face. His right eye was covered by blood. While I was checking his face, Vivian, Phurba and Lingsang came toward me. Lingsang and Phurba were looking ok but Vivian’s face was covered by blood. I had no words to tell them. I asked Phurba to move around and find other members. Around 10m from Marc, Ada and Japanese lady, Obata were together lying on snow without shoes. It looks Ada was senseless with swollen face and Obata was very conscious but broken leg and she was crying lot. There was no point I could help her. I need to find all our people so I left them and went to find more. Till then there was nobody from other safer camp to help us. One of my friend, Tashi whose camp was not much affected came to our camp so I asked him about his camp and he told all his camp was not that bad so I told him to call more people from his team and all the people from Rolwaling who were near to his camp. His radio was not working so he immediately ran back to call some of friends.


Phurba had taken Amy out from the small lake in front of her tent and she was wet and kept on snow. We found wooden board and moved her on that board. It looks our few Sherpa were very fine and were helping us. We spread to find more of our staffs and members. Shi Lei was sitting there on something but he was so frightened and had problem in moving his leg. Maizi was blocked under dining poles which Phurthiley was removing but she looked fine because she was conscious. There was a guy behind Maizi but he was naked with his boot and white underwear only. I couldn’t imagine how it was happened. I tried to feel his body and it was still warm but was not moving so I thought he was no more. I turned his face that almost stopped my breathing because it was Ge Zhen Fang and his left eye was out and there was big cut close to his eye along with bone. I put his eye back but it gave too much pain on my mind. It was like watching horror movie. I found two kinds of feather bags behind him and I took them and put on Ada’s feet and zipped them. I didn’t find any other shoes so I rapped the Japanese lady’s leg in a sleeping bag which Mingma Nuri covered her.  We were still missing Yama San, Australian lady and our Sherpa. 


Our Nepalese member, Gopal was at the place where my tent was placed previously. He was so fine but shivering a lot and he wanted to find me boot for him. I just shout at him and sent him toward the middle of the camp. I heard very low sound of crying so I went behind a big rock and found Yama San there.  He was lying on snow with broken legs and his right hand was broken and turned under his head. I was sure that he can’t live for longer time but I couldn’t leave him in that situation. There was a big crushed carpet. I hardly pulled that little closer and dragged him on that carpet. He was shouting alot but I didn’t have any option except dragging him. Keeping him on warmer carpet and covered his half body with that carpet to keep him warm, I quickly move toward the middle of the camp and I saw Ge Zhen Fang was moving there. But I didn’t see any hope to save him and Phurba came to me and started crying hugging on my waist. Till then I didn’t know that our two Nepalese were dead. Phurba just kept on saying Chau Lhakpa (Brother-in-Law) died. Again he told that he also found body of Shiva which created my mind so tensed and put so much pressure. Phujung again told me that, our another chef, Rinzi is in very critical position and may not live. Again Furba (elder) told that he also found the dead body of Australian lady. I was already out of mind so just wanted to call in Kathmandu. There was no mobile signal so couldn’t make call. Then I saw our camp-II assistant chef, Rajendra being covered on his forehead. His skin on forehead was cut off and it was hanging between his two eyes. His face was full of blood and it put so much pressure on my mind. I was counting our Nepalese team and Eric came to me and he ask if he could go to Gorekshep but I kept on saying him to wait because I didn’t see anyone good to go with him.


I had no idea what to do. I sent two of our Sherpa to ask for help to some of our friends’ camp which were at the top of base camp. We didn’t have tent left, all our team mates were injured, we didn’t have place to put our injured people and some of them were seeking for hot water which we didn’t have.  Many friends from Rolwaling and some other came to our camp and finally I got satellite phone in my hand and called in Kathmandu but I was informed that the situation in Kathmandu was also very distress.  I just told to keep helicopter on standby and reserve hospital for them. The weather was not good so I didn’t have hope for helicopter. We found some of our stored tents and started putting them. One by another, we put most of our injured people in the tents. Phurba took Marc to HRA with some of other friends. Other people need to be carried so we were waiting for stretcher. One of my guide friend, Phurba Namgyal arrived there with his first aid kit and bottles of hot water. I took painkiller from him and chew them myself and gave to Amy, Rajendra, Vivian and Yama San.  There were so many people to help us sooner. We didn’t find our oxygen mask and regulator and Phurba was still saying that Rinzin may not live.  I asked to Mingma Tshering (also my NNMGA batch guide) to bring some regulator and mask. So he quickly called his camp and brought mask and regulator. We also got some stretcher for carrying injured people.  We first sent Yama San and then Amy to HRA. I turned Ga Zhen Fang and found small hope so we took him too to HRA but the doctor denied to accept him because they were sure that he was in very critical situation and can’t be cured. It was same case with one of Sherpa from another team so we kept both together in newly fitted big tent. And sooner he died there but the Sherpa was still moving. I pray such moment never come in my life. I entered back to HRA big broken medication hall because Amy was kept there and she was looking conscious. She was asking us to talk with her continuously.  Almost 5-6 camps which were at lower part were not harmed so some people arranged those camps for medication center. I was returning back to camp from HRA and found Ada was being taken to lower camp. I didn’t know the Sherpa who was taking her but I requested to take care of her for some period.  One by One, we transferred to IMG, Asian Trek and Himalayan Experience camps. We kept on waiting for stretcher to come because we still had Maizi, Rajendra and Pasang Gelje at camp and they can’t walk. Later on they were directly taken to IMG camp where more critical people are kept. After Pasang Gelje was taken to one of his relative’s camp, we went to see our injured people in the camps they were taken.


 
   We first went to Asian Trekking camp where Ada, Boshi and Vivian were kept. There were 3 more injured people and they were all sitting before gas heater. There was no doctor at that time. Doctor Nima is very good friend of mine since long time and he was looking after that camp so I sent one guy to call him. My friend Phurba Namgyal and I first helped Vivian to bandage her arms and forehead because the blood from her both elbow were blowing continuously. Dr Nima came there and he suggested some method to stop the blood. After that we opened Ada’s Bandage again because it was completely wet with blood and it was still bleeding. It was big cut on the back, more to right side and her hair was attached to each other because of clotted blood and became so hard. We cut few part of her hair and wanted to cut all around the wound but she denied cutting them. Clearing the lower part with warm water, we put medicine and covered them with new bandage. She was still shivering and also so frightened and like senseless. I checked her body and found bleeding on her right leg. She was there still with those wet shocks. I opened them and her legs were so cold so I started rubbing them putting in front of heater. It took me long time to warm her legs. Then I folded her both trousers up and Phurba put medicine on the wound and covered it. Boshi was very fine. His head was bandage but there was no more bleeding but he was asking to help to find his small blue bag and he told to go back to camp next day to find his things instead of flying back.  After that Phurba Namgyal wanted to go back to his camp, so I requested him to take our people in his camp and let them sleep there. He first went to our camp and took Eric,Lingsang and Niuro to his camp with Dawa and I went to IMG camp from Asian Trek camp.
               


 When I entered to IMG dining hall, all the injured people were kept on the floor and the hall was warmed by heater. Amy, Japanese lady,Maizi, Gyaljen and Rajendra were kept in same dining hall with 4 more other people. Then I entered another dining hall where Yama San and Shi Lei were kept with other 2 more people. All were looking ok. Shi lei was in deep sleep and I woke up him to ask if he is feeling better but he stood up and started looking for his single shoe. The doctor found it from outside and gave it. Since conscious people were kept in Asian Trek camp, I took him there and put with Ada, Vivian and Boshi. They started to chat but Ada was looking at heater and not responding at all. There was one blanket given to Ada and I asked one more sleeping bag. It was already getting dark and I remembered Baoli who was kept in tent at our camp. We all forgot him because he was alone in a tent and nobody checked after I left the camp. I immediately sent one Sherpa. Dakipa and some other Sherpa brought him to IMG camp. I stayed for a while in Asian trek camp and then we all took dinner there. Then I went back to IMG camp again. The Japanese lady wanted to have warm water so I requested one of guy to bring water. I asked everyone if they wanted to have something. Rajendra said he was hungry and Amy wanted to have soup. Rajendra could eat himself but we had to feed Amy. Tsering Pemba from Ascent Himalaya Trek helped me to make Amy stand and hold her body but she took only 6-7 spoons of soup. We made her sleep after that and changed her water bottle with warm water.


We entered the next dining, Yama San wanted to pee. I got so surprised to see him because he was so conscious and recognize me very clearly. I took a big mouth bottle and tried him pee there but he was unable to pee for long time so I rubbed his pee point area. He couldn’t pee so I left and again after few minutes he was asking me to help him to pee. It didn’t happen so I asked the doctors to help him.  Two of the doctors fitted pipe and sucked it and helped him release his pee. Those doctors were kind of live giving angel for the injured people that day.


Taking 2 Tsering Sherpa from Ascent Himalaya and our Sherpa,  I went to Himalayan experience and another one more camp which I don’t know yet. Marc, Jagbu Sherpa, Gopal, Mingma Nuri Sherpa and PemChong were kept in Himalayan experience camp. There were doctors kept turn by turn and they didn’t allow us to stay there because we were talking much with patients and he didn’t want us to disturb the injured people. He told not to worry and suggested to take rest saying he would look the patients. But we left Dakipa Sherpa there inside the tent in case of emergency. Then we went to another camp where Rinzin Sherpa and Gelbu Sherpa were kept. I didn’t cry whole the day in that situation but when met Rinzin, his voice was so low and painful and I couldn’t control my tears. He was worried if he could live or not and he was asking about his family. On the other side, Gelbu was there. He was so frightened and he requested me to arrange helicopter immediately. I tried to convince him but he was not listening to me. Min Bahadur Sherpa was already there looking after those two people and I requested him to stay whole the night with them. I wanted to go back to my friend’s camp to see Lingsang, Eric and Nieuro but he told me they were fine and not to worry about them.  So we returned back to IMG camp. The doctors were busy writing names and types of injury of victims on separate notebook for each victim. I stayed inside the dining hall in front of heater. Suddenly Amy started coughing little and then vomited several times. I was cleaning her, she stopped breathing. I tried to call the doctors but they were busy in their own work. I went and caught on one doctor’s collar and pulled her to Amy. She quickly raised face upward and opened her mouth. She attached her upper and lower teeth so strong.  She didn’t breathe so the doctor asked helped from another doctor and inserted long pipe in her throat and we kept continuing the oxygen at 8 pressures (IMG oxygen). After few minutes, she finally started breathing.  Then they gave two different kinds of injections. The doctor and I stayed looking her more than half an hour and every few seconds we were trying to make her open her eyes and speaks. When she could recognize us, we left her to sleep fitting oxygen. The situation was getting better so I told 3 Sherpa from AH to go back to their camp and again come early morning to make heliport.  Pemba Rita and Dawa Gyalzen were very fine so I told them not to sleep and check everyone in every few minutes. There were many injured climbers from different teams but there was nobody to look after them except the doctors and our Sherpa. We had to take care of our people and also all those injured people inside IMG camp.


I again went back to Asian Trek camp. All the remaining Sherpa were inside the dining and were chatting. Most of the people left base camp immediately after the accident so there were only few people. They read the news that another powerful earthquake would come before 12 AM so they want to stay awake till then. After that all went to sleep. Vivian, Shi Lei and Boshi were sitting on chair and there was nothing to cover their bodies so I requested Dr Nima to arrange another one more sleeping bag. He brought one of his client sleeping bag and provided us. Dr Nima told that Ada vomited and slept. So suggested to take care of her because if she again vomits while sleeping then could be danger. So I put chair straight to Ada, below her legs and sit there. It was easier for me to look back and check her. Boshi, Shi Lei, Vivian, myself, 2 Sherpa and one Indian, we all sat on chair. There were 3 injured people from different camps but there was nobody to look after them except me.  Staying around an hour there, I again went back to IMG camp. There were two ladies doctors and One more male doctor who was distributing Diamox in the day time. They all were sitting outside at the gate between two dining hall because they were preparing something and it was bit noisy inside. Our two Sherpa were inside the IMG kitchen tent taking tea. I went inside the dining and checked everyone again. The Japanese lady again wanted to have hot water. There was another foreigner whose ribs were broken and wanted to have water so I helped him to raise and give water.  There was one injured Sherpa below Amy. He asked me to help him to have something hot but I didn’t know what to give because that was not my camp and there was nobody who could prepare. I entered another dining and there was one Sherpa who could not speak English properly. He had broken legs and he told it was painful and need painkiller. I called the doctor and explained her and she checked him. Baoli was there and he was happy to see me all the time. He spoke so many things but I couldn’t understand him. Yama San was sleeping well.  The doctor told to put a pad around the leg of that Sherpa. I help doctor cut his pants. Another doctor brought a pad but it was hard and bigger than his leg. The doctor told to bring hot water so I ran to kitchen with Alex took a small bowl full of hot water. He put the pad inside and bent it. He cut it into two pieces and tied on his leg.  We all went outside and I asked them if they like to drink something. One of the doctors told to prepare any kind of hot drinks like juice.  I went to Kitchen and our two Sherpa were taking tea there so they have already searched everything to eat. The IMG kitchen staffs were so thoughtful and helpful. They have boiled hot water and filled all the thermoses before they go to sleep. Our two Sherpa made juice and gave to the doctors and drank themselves too. I took a cup of juice to the Sherpa and let him drink. He thanked me and he was sad because some of his friends were very fine but they ran to Gorekshep leaving them in that condition.


    After this, I again went back to Asian Trek camp. All were slept on chairs. I tried not to sleep but after few minutes I was asleep. Woke up almost an hour later and went outside to see the weather. It was so clear and we had hope to have helicopter early morning. It was very close to dawn so went back to tent and took a short nap. When I opened my eyes, it was white outside from the window. I quickly went out but it was clouded and very light snowing which depressed our expectation. I went to IMG camp, there were few people already woke up from IMG. We had a plan to make heliport early morning but there were no one to make heliport because it was cloudy and there was no hope for helicopter.  I was shivering lot and a Sherpa gave me a down jacket and tea who I don’t know. After the accident I gave my big Kailash down jacket to Amy, then I found another but gave to Rajendra and again someone gave one black which I gave to Vivian and found another kailash down jacket by myself which I gave to Jangbu sherpa. I had nothing left and Lingsang collected some double bag so we took cothes from there and gave to Amy, vivian and I use myself too. I saw Lingsang also wore taking cloth from same double bag which was found to be of Amy. Suddenly we heard sound of helicopter. I told Pemba to carry out our injured people and Phunuru from IMG and I ran quickly toward the point we wanted to make heliport. Phunuru was sure that helicopter could land there so he gave signal to land on a small but not so flat hilltop. The helicopter landed there easily. Most of the people helping to carry the injured people in helicopter in that morning were from foreign countries. I first wanted to send Yama San, Amy and Ada so I shout at Pemba Rita to bring Ada quickly. The doctors put the injured people in a queue as per seriousness. Yama San, another one and Amy were first taken out but the pilot suggested only two people at a time so Yama San and another guy were putting in helicopter and I was still shouting our Sherpa to bring Ada because we had discussed to send two serious and one additional who is not much injured and can stand without any help.  One of the Sherpa shouted at me saying they also have their injured people to send not only mine. I had my question for him but I kept silent. He had injured people but he forgot his injured people whole the night and our Sherpa were helping them instead of him.


 
 The pilot told that they had four helicopters together from Lukla but only he could managed to enter through that thick cloud and reached at base camp. He was foreign pilot whom I never saw before. The first helicopter returned back with only two people and we waited little longer for second flight because it had problem to enter through that cloud. After the second flight, it kept on coming in every 15-20minutes. I wanted to send Dakipa and Phurba to Pheriche but the doctors didn’t allow saying there are already many volunteers in Pheriche and big helicopter is at lukla to take them directly to Kathmandu after Pheriche and only injured people should be sent first. I wanted to stay at base camp because our Sherpa were already so frightened and I thought they cannot bear more pressure and our people’s dead bodies were there at base camp.  Fishtail air finished all the injured people to Pheriche and there came two more different helicopters. Those helicopters started rescuing from camp-I and camp-II.  We went back to camp to collect our things but our Sherpa told that almost all our things were flown away in Khumbu icefall. The rescue from camp-I and II continued whole the day and it started to get cloudy sooner. All the helicopters started returning back. I could finally arranged one helicopter from Lukla to base camp to take dead bodies. We were waiting at SPCC’s destroyed camp with dead bodies but the helicopter couldn’t land there because so many things were flying into air so it returned to another heliport and flew back taking Lhakpa from HRA. Then we took all our dead bodies to heliport and left covering them. I went back to Asian Trek camp to use wifi to send message to Temba. He informed all the members were already in Kathmandu but he didn’t know how many Sherpa were there and how many of them were not there. He told me that Nima was in Lukla and I tried to reach Nima but he was not in contact. We didn’t have phone signal that day and money in satellite phone was no more. It was getting dark and I went back to my uncle’s camp where our 7 Sherpa, Boshi, Lingsang and I spent the night sharing and eating food from another camp. Next day we flew back to Lukla with 4 dead bodies and then Kathmandu with 2 only. There were many helicopter but government controlled all the helicopters and private helicopter make quick flights charging too much money only.

 
    Firstly I am very thankful to all our those Sherpas who were still there helping our injured people because I saw most of the people from different camps packed their things and ran away from base camp after the accident. Also there was nobody to look after the injured people from their respective camps at night. I knew our 3 sherpa ran away too but I didn’t feel that sad with them too because after all they thought of their own and family life. The destructive avalanche also made everyone frightened and senseless. Our sherpa were in every camps where injured people were kept and they have helped all the injured people. Dakipa was in Himalayan Experience, Min Bahadur and Lhakpa were in the camp being treated by Indian doctors, Dawa Gyalje and Pemba Rita were in IMG camp whole the night. Thanks to them for being so responsible.

 
I am very thankful to all the climbers who helped our injured team mates to be alive. There were so many foreigners and Nepalese helping the destructed camps and injured people. It was a good example to let the world know that there is fine and good relationship among all climbers though from what happened with the accident in 2013 between foreign climbers and Nepalese Sherpa.

 
The international and national organizers like IMG, Asian Trekking, Himalayan Experience etc for letting all the injured people to have medication in their camps and providing anything we were in need of.  

 
We are very thankful to the team from HRA (Himalayan Rescue Association) for providing doctors and medicines at Everest base camp every year. This year they were completely destructed but they kept on helping the injured people with what they have left after avalanche.

 
We are very much thankful to HRA doctors, Dr. Rachel Tullet and Dr. Megan Wainsley. I didn’t get complete name of another Canadian doctor, Dr. Syluce. Dr. Nima Sherpa from Aisan Trek camp.  I am sorry that I don’t have the names for those doctors who were looking at Himalayan Experience and from the camp which was being taken cared by Indian doctors.
(If some names are missing please let us know.)
 

Losing and gaining is part of life so keep on moving………
 
                   “Thank you everyone”
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Jun 10, 2015 - 07:19pm PT
From various articles I've notice today, it appears the Nepalese government has started taxing & levying other import fees on donations of relief supplies to the people of Nepal as of June 4th.

A Nepalese Embassy spokesman said the relief taxes of between 15 and 30 per cent, depending on the type of good, had been introduced as its government felt it was in the best position to coordinate the humanitarian effort and prevent aid being duplicated.

He said donations sent to the Nepalese government and aid agencies would be exempt from tax.

An Oxfam spokesman said it was continuing to deliver relief items in a number of ways including by air, overland from India and by sourcing them in Nepal itself.

He said the Nepalese government had reinstated some customs duties it waived after the earthquakes, but these did not apply to some priority items like tents and tarpaulin.

He added: 'Oxfam's top priority is to ensure lifesaving aid gets to those who need it most as soon as possible.'

Read more: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3111132/Ten-tonnes-aid-collections-earthquake-survivors-stuck-Catterick-Nepal-s-30-tax-donations-means-expensive-hand-over.html#ixzz3ciNxrgvZ

and there is the current petition to the Nepal government from Change.org

We ask you to stop levying taxes on Materials imported to aid sufferers of the Nepalese earthquakes. The cost of these taxes will slow down aid for people who need it urgently, and with the monsoon rapidly approaching help is needed now.

http://www.change.org/p/the-government-of-nepal-we-ask-you-to-stop-levying-taxes-on-materials-imported-to-aid-sufferers-of-the-nepalese-earthquakes-the-cost-of-these-taxes-will-slow-down-aid-for-people-who-need-it-urgently-and-with-the-monsoon-rapidly-approaching-help-is-ne
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2015 - 07:22pm PT
That's just typical Fritz.
canyoncat

Social climber
SoCal
Jun 10, 2015 - 07:56pm PT
Wow Jan, Mingma's story was really moving. Clearly he's the man to have in an emergency. He was brave, clear headed, and just what was needed to keep things together.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Jun 10, 2015 - 09:43pm PT
Jan: The story you linked to is heart-breaking, as is so much of the Nepal earthquakes epic. Thank you for keeping this thread alive.

Worst day of my life (25-04-2015) Report by Mingma

Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2015 - 08:17pm PT
June 19 - Four more aftershocks of of 4.4 to 5.2.
That makes 320 since the first big quake.
And the monsoons have started.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jun 20, 2015 - 12:17am PT
hey there, jan... oh my... this sounds, awful... :(
will remember this in the prayers... thanks for bringing it to attention...
:(
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2015 - 12:32pm PT
More aftershocks still but the real problem now is the rain. This video comes from a poor Tamang village near the epicenter of the first quake.

The amazing and humbling aspect of it, as always in Nepal, is how the Nepalese remain cheerful in the midst of it all.

I can't bring it up except to go to the Facebook page and scroll down to the second photo posted with video.

http://www.facebook.com/nathalie.despas.7?fref=photo
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jul 8, 2015 - 07:46pm PT
hey there say, jan... thanks for bring this up, again...
:)
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jul 17, 2015 - 06:28pm PT
Hay Jan it seems NASA is also thinking of Nepal lately.

Tenzing Norgay just had a mountain range named after him...on Pluto! The Norgay Montes

Perhaps that will bring a bit of a smile for the nepalese today...with all they are facing hopefully it's a little something that helps.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2015 - 04:08pm PT
Thanks climbski2. The Nepalese do indeed need all the smiles they can get. They just had another 4.6 aftershock today with the epicenter in Kathmandu. That's three months and ten days after the first big earthquake. At least the aftershocks are getting a little more spaced out now, instead of every day.
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Jul 28, 2015 - 09:38pm PT

Yahoo News


Death toll from floods in Pakistan rises to 81
.
Associated Press 15 hours ago
13 Male Cartoons Voiced By Women
Clipd Sponsor

ISLAMABAD (AP) — The nationwide death toll from this month's flash floods in various parts of Pakistan rose to 81 on Tuesday as floodwater inundated hundreds of villages, leaving tens of thousands of people homeless, authorities said.

The floods have affected 300,000 people in the two weeks since deluges hit the northern city of Chitral and the eastern Punjab province, the National Disaster Management Authority said. It warned of more rains this week and asked authorities to take necessary steps to prevent further destruction.

The authority said the flooding inundated hundreds of villages and damaged 1,921 homes.

It said a total of 172,016 people were rescued from the flood-hit areas in the eastern Punjab and southern Sindh provinces.

Pakistan's military meanwhile said its helicopters had evacuated 30 patients and tourists from the badly flooded northern city of Chitral to the city of Peshawar.

Floods triggered by monsoon rains kill scores of people annually in
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Oct 19, 2015 - 02:06pm PT
My husband is there trekking to Everest basecamp right now. He reported KTM still recovering from the earthquake, lots of construction going on. But plenty of places, like the KTM hotel he stayed at on arrival, were still intact and "certified" undamaged (for whatever that is worth).

But so far in everyplace he has stayed, Lukla, Namche, Tengboche, Dengboche, everything is operating as normal. He says there is a huge amount of repair and rebuilding going on but nothing causing any hardship for tourists. He says the facilities etc are comparable to his last visit. The guest house operators say tourism is way down this year - they are seeing far fewer tourists than normal for this time of year. That's nice for him as the crowds are less but not so good for the people of Nepal.

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