Discussion Topic |
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 20, 2015 - 02:12pm PT
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You boys better post up with the spray! The interwebs are abuzz with rumors, heresay and gossip out near Tokopah Valley. I know some of the lurid details of the new route yall sent yesterday.....but inquiring minds want to know! I heard there was steepness, long falls, storm, stuck ropes and drama! Do tell! And hurry up with the trip report ya punters!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2015 - 02:14pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Apr 20, 2015 - 02:22pm PT
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Check the Tokopah dome tr comments
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Apr 20, 2015 - 02:41pm PT
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The Tokopah Domes TR comment was Vitaliy and Burchey's new route over there. Sunday they hiked out and met up with Macronut and I to finally finish an amazing awesome stupendous route on Panther Peak, that's the one pictured above.
It's taken three separate trips to finish that route and I must say I can't think of anything in the 4 pitch range that Iv'e climbed that's better. Vitaliy said he liked it more than the Don Juan Wall at the Needles!
Two stellar pitches of crack climbing followed by two equally awesome pitches of face climbing. The whole thing is super steep and every pitch has 5.11 or 5.10+++ but is well protected.
The hike to Panther Peak is a pleasant 1.5 hours from Wolverton and the views from the climb are, I think, the some of the best in the Sierra. All together it will make an awesome day for anyone who tries.
Oh ya, while Vitaliy and Macronut were finishing and climbing the route Burchey and I put up another probable first ascent that involved quite a bit more lichen, bushes, loose rock, runnouts and 5.9+ fun!
The new classic, Krymptonite, takes basically the arete on the left. FA P1&2 Adam Sheppard (macronut), Matt Schutz, Daniel Jeffcoach. FA whole thing Adam Sheppard, Vitaliy Musiyenkio
Looking down the first two pitches of awesome crack on the first trip out there.
summit views to the east
Macronut following Vitaliy on the amazing steep face of pitch three that leads to the exposed arete.
"Everything is buzzing and my camera turned itself on!" -Vitaliy
GO CLIMB THIS!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 20, 2015 - 02:57pm PT
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No Mike, in Tokopah Dome comments I wrote about one I did on Friday. This one we finished on SUnday. Third day of work on that one. It is really high quality line on Panther peak. Liked it a lot. I think it will see a lot of traffic if people actually check it out. High quality crack and face climbing. Badass position. STEEP! Splitter brah!! :)
Story: Daniel (Limpingcrab), Adam (macronut) and their friend Matthew went out to check Panther and started a new route. They did two pitches that are mostly crack climbing with a few nails hard face sections. 5.11 with 2nd being slightly harder IMO. Than Daniel invited me to see if it would go to the top and we put in like a pitch and a half of good face climbing. Just had to finish the exit. So on Sunday we did that than Adam and I climbed the route from the bottom with Daniel and Adam Burchy climbing another new route on the neighboring buttress. Adam led the first two pitches taking a pretty long ride on the 2nd while going to the anchors. But recovered in what seemed to be under a minute before finishing the pitch. I was super impressed with his effort! I managed to redpoint the two upper pitches, climbing the second pitch after it started to SNOW! As I was belaying Adam, my jacket and hair started buzzing. I was like WTF is that a bee on me??!! So I took off my helmet and tried to brush it off, than I realized my hair is freaking buzzing because it is a THUNDERSTORM. Maybe a lighting is coming?! I was like "ADAM ADAM CLIMB FASTER MY HAIR IS BUZZING!!!" LOL It was windy and shitty up there...and scary on top. THE climbing was SUPERB though.
There is my not so exciting summary of an exciting day. :) Will likely do this route again by the end of this year just because it is sooooo good. In Daniel's Panther peak photo, it takes the steep face and transitions to the exposed arete on the left buttress. Very aesthetic. Like something out of Red Rock, without the sandy sh#t rock. And if I did not say it yet, you all who can should go climb it!!!
Panther Peak - Krymptonite (4 pitches 600ft of business with another 150 ft 4th-5.6 section off the buttress). SICK ROUTE!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Apr 20, 2015 - 03:01pm PT
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So it looks like Vitaliy and I are paying closer attention to supertopo than work today. I was faster, muaahahaha! (not sure if that's a good thing, or just sad?)
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 20, 2015 - 03:04pm PT
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I messaged you on facebook about this thread prior to your post, so I win!
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Jones in LA
Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
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Apr 20, 2015 - 03:28pm PT
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Woo hoo! Superior climbing content! Way to get 'er done, guys, and thanks for sharing this.
Rich Jones
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Apr 20, 2015 - 04:09pm PT
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Nice looking climb gentlemen.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Apr 20, 2015 - 04:10pm PT
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Nice! Looks like some quality rock there, and a hell of a route.
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couchmaster
climber
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Apr 20, 2015 - 04:43pm PT
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Great name! Krimptomite! Woot~! LOL ps, need more pictures:-) Speling is not my strong point, so no whining about butchering the name, still great.
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couchmaster
climber
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Apr 20, 2015 - 04:46pm PT
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Haha, my son gifted me the route name "Prancing Unicorn" it cracked him up as it seemed the opposite of a manly/badass name for a route. Haven't used it yet. But I will.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 20, 2015 - 04:52pm PT
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The face climbing looks sooo steep.
Yikes.
Good stuff guys, real good .....
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Apr 20, 2015 - 04:55pm PT
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Schutzy didn't tell you guys? We went back and finished that route last week. We soloed it though, so I guess it's cool you guys added bolts.
And we down climbed the 5.9+
Called it I'm burchey's daddy. 5.3d hurr hurr
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 20, 2015 - 05:22pm PT
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Burchey, that's the cutest thing I have seen on the internet. Are you trying to get into my pants again? Jk. But why are you sandbagging your nephew?! From what I heard you guys say seems much harder than 5.9. With 5.11 bushwhack on the approach and 5.13 dirt digging on the route. Not so sweet now that the truth is out eh brah?
This just in, that was hilarious.
Werner, the face climbing was very steep honestly but the holds were like perfect sharp crimps and semi jugs in places. Red Rock alike climbing. Very different than most granite peaks. I guess Panther Peak is Shuteye ' s little brother.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Apr 20, 2015 - 05:45pm PT
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Pretty f*#king cool, looks way too fun.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 20, 2015 - 05:55pm PT
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Looks great. I need to climb.
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sneville
climber
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Apr 20, 2015 - 06:05pm PT
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Looks like an awesome route. Nice job!
Just curious, did you stance that stuff or hook? Power drill? Looks steep.
Sean
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Apr 20, 2015 - 06:29pm PT
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Congrats, guys! Looks wonderful...
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 20, 2015 - 06:50pm PT
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Just curious, did you stance that stuff or hook? Power drill? Looks steep.
First two pitches were bolted on lead, the last two were all face and we had no idea if it would go or where, so Daniel and I top roped the face from the top. After two tries each we found what we thought was the best way. I placed dots with chalk where I thought bolts should go, than Daniel did the same replacing some of the dots with X. Than we took turns bolting with a hand drill. We could have don't this on lead but it would be dumb because we took the mystery out of it by TRing to find something that would go. But if we went straight from the bottom on those two pitches we would create a bolted clusterfk on that face, so I am sure we did the right thing by choosing this approach on this particular climb. I usually do all FAs GU, but at times you have to be smart about it.
Can't wait to upload my pics from the camera!!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Apr 20, 2015 - 09:42pm PT
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but at times you have to be smart about it.
I agree. No point in placing bolts in odd places or taking unnecessary risk with easy top access.
Panther peak is a cool place. I've camped around there a number of times. Panther Pass & other spots nearby in winter.
There is a sweet sheltered grove of trees just east of the summit tower that would be a cool place to camp. No water. Maybe melt snow in early season.
The peak is about 4 miles hike from Wolverton parking area. Trail camps about 3 miles away at Merhten creek on the High Sierra Trail.
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Apr 21, 2015 - 09:01am PT
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Cosmiccragsman,
LMAO, what a classic photo. I have felt the buzz in the air before, but not like that.
The golfer Lee Trevino was hit by lightning two times on the golf course. Later he said he always brings a 2 iron, because even God can't hit a 2 iron.
Thanks to all for the input on another great Tokopah thread
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 21, 2015 - 10:15am PT
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Great Job.....
V...I don't worry about how the bolts got there, just that they are there when you need one. Its all good.
Can't wait till I can hike out there...
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 21, 2015 - 10:33am PT
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Whoot WHOOT
(where did my 1st post go? ho to anther thread?)
well here is where i had meant to put it so
THE best TR's for sure !
big bump
BIGGER THAN THAT
Icey why youthe best and most inspiring TR's they remind that Every thing does not fit in the frame but what counts is the overall excellent climbing reports
thank you
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 21, 2015 - 10:52am PT
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First two pitches were bolted on lead, the last two were all face and we had no idea if it would go or where,
We could have don't this on lead but it would be dumb because we took the mystery out of it by TRing to find something that would go.
we would create a bolted clusterf*#k on that face, so I am sure we did the right thing
V, I have faith in your guy's ability to do some rad GU biz!
Really curious now, what did the difficulty check in at on those pitches?
I don't think you guys would have made a clusterfuk. But you probably would have had to go in multiple trips.
Were you concerned about it being a bolt ladder to nowhere or just having suboptimal clips for the difficulty? Both? I bet you would have done great going GU.
You guys are climbing strong, have fun with that stuff!!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Apr 21, 2015 - 11:12am PT
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Munge, the third pitch was 5.11 and pretty much all face and the 4th pitch was easy for the first half and then 5.10+ or 5.11 towards the top.
On the first trip out there we followed the cracks ground up and placed a couple bolts to connect them. The top of the second pitch ended with no pro under a roof that we couldn't see past. We were out of time so we drilled and anchor, rapped down and went home not knowing if it would go or dead end there. From the ground and other viewpoints it looked pretty hopeless but the first two pitches were so good that I wanted to at least look one more time.
Vitaliy and I went back a few weeks later and, after discussing it, decided to rap in to see if it would be a waste of time so we could start another route if necessary. One 70m barely reached from the summit to the top of P2. I rapped in first and went the totally wrong way into a bunch of lichen and crap. Vitaliy went next and broke a hold that ended in a blank wall. It took us 4 tries to see if it would go and by then we figured it would be kinda dumb to walk to the base and put the bolts on the last two pitches ground up. At the same time, the edges are so good that it would have potentially gone on hooks so that was kind of a bummer.
In the end the final product is awesome and I'm glad we didn't try bolting our first three attempts at the top 70+ meters. We both enjoy ground up way more than anything else but it's just how it worked out for the top of this route.
On the other hand, Burchey and I didn't even bring a drill on Rack 'em Up Reid and wished we had one in a few spots. I've never done a new route without having a bolt kit in tow, that was a committing feeling!
P2 ended pretty much straight above Adam, at the right side of those roofs.
This is looking down at the section above the roofs, it didn't look promising...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 21, 2015 - 11:19am PT
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potentially gone on hooks
yeah, you guys had me thinking about the hook potential because of the edges. I had visions of soyo.
Nice climbing guys!!!
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Apr 21, 2015 - 11:51am PT
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Looks like some good routes.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 21, 2015 - 12:04pm PT
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Well done, you guys!
John
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 21, 2015 - 03:48pm PT
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I would post more....if I didn't want to save anything original for a an actual report. And if I had quick internet :)
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ec
climber
ca
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Apr 21, 2015 - 04:51pm PT
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Nice!
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Apr 21, 2015 - 05:24pm PT
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ADAM ADAM CLIMB FASTER MY HAIR IS BUZZING!!!
I laughed hard...but only because no one got fried. :-)
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Apr 21, 2015 - 07:09pm PT
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Awesome! Well done boys!
Dan, ahem, I'm still waiting for my phone call.....
:P
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Apr 23, 2015 - 11:23pm PT
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Wow, that line looks really good. Congrats.
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