Mt Forakers Infinite Spur: All Comers Welcome

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Avery

climber
NZ
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 9, 2015 - 03:06am PT
This thread is dedicated to Mt Forakers awesome "Infinite Spur".
Any stories or pics regarding this route are most welcome.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Apr 9, 2015 - 03:21am PT
A guy I know who climbed it broke both his legs badly in the gym shortly after.

This proves that gym climbing is more dangerous than extreme alpinism.

http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/route_beta.php?r=akfoinfi
Avery

climber
NZ
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2015 - 03:29am PT

American Alpine Journal 1978
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 9, 2015 - 08:54am PT
Around 25 years ago I jumped on the route with Jack Tackle. We climbed for a day and set our little bivvy tent up on a knife edged ridge.
It started snowing that night and continued to dump for four days.
Clear weather confirmed that the noises we were hearing we're avalanches cascading down all around us.
A hasty retreat followed in less than ideal conditions.....haven't been back since.

The line is so striking it was the only time I ever attempted a route in Alaska that had already been climbed.
Avery

climber
NZ
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2015 - 02:44pm PT
"The line is so striking it was the only time I ever attempted a route in Alaska that had already been climbed".

That's a pretty impressive record, Jim.
rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 9, 2015 - 02:57pm PT
We had intentions of doing that line back in 1975. But with the surging glaciers that year, our pilot didn't want to drop us below the South Face so we ended up on the West Fork of the Kahiltna below the southeast ridge.

Intending to ski around to the south face, we were dismayed to see the amount of falling rock and avalanche, even in the deep dead of night (such as it is up there in early June). Foraker's rock is absolutely appalling! We prudently chose to abandon that FA possibility preferring life over certain death just getting to the base of the damned climb.

Eventually, we did a repeat ascent of the Southeast Ridge…
Avery

climber
NZ
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2015 - 03:57am PT

American Alpine Journal 1990
Andy de klerk

Mountain climber
South Africa
Apr 10, 2015 - 12:22pm PT
I miss Mark Bebie, he was a great guy. Big and strong and always cheerful. A complete dirtbag eccentric who was a Microsoft millionaire but he really loved being in the mountains.
Killed with Steve Risse on Slipstream
I know Mark was really proud of doing the Infinite Spur, and so he should be.

Here is an insightful quote from BB in his book "The Calling" about Dave Cheesemond
Kind of cuts right to the heart of it all:

I do know we’ve been guilty of ignoring our mortality. We laughed off the “close ones.” It’s a bit of a trap. We got into it so far we lost our perspective. It always happened to someone else. Maybe they made a mistake. The mistake is forgetting that you’re dancing with death. All the joy and growth we got out of it was only in us. The mountain moved and you were in the way.

Andy

Avery

climber
NZ
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2015 - 03:01pm PT

American Alpine Journal 2001
Avery

climber
NZ
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2015 - 03:48am PT

American Alpine Journal 2001
Avery

climber
NZ
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2015 - 05:30pm PT
Glen Deal and Gren Hinton Cont...


Special thanks to Glen Deal
WallMan

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Apr 15, 2015 - 12:36pm PT
Avery - you have plans for the Infinite Spur this season?

This route has long been coveted by me and a couple of friends. I do not believe I am up to the task.

Wally
Avery

climber
NZ
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2015 - 02:38pm PT
I can see I'm in good company, Wally. I believe I'm not up to the task either!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 15, 2015 - 02:48pm PT
This is a time to remember Karen McNeil and Sue Knott. They died attempting the Infinite Spur and are resting somewhere on its flanks.
I knew them both, they were wonderful people.
Avery

climber
NZ
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2015 - 02:49pm PT
Glen Deal and Gren Hinton Cont...


Special Thanks to Glen Deal
Avery

climber
NZ
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2015 - 02:54pm PT
Correct me if I'm wrong, Jim, but I believe one of the women was Kiwi.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 15, 2015 - 02:57pm PT
Karen McNeill was a Kiwi living in Canada. She had a great personality and a wild sense of humor.
Avery

climber
NZ
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2015 - 04:48pm PT
Glen Deal and Gren Hinton Cont...


Special thanks to Glen Deal
Avery

climber
NZ
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2015 - 01:27am PT
Mt. Foraker, Infinite Spur variation. The sun is setting, and the cold is creeping down the Kahiltna. It is May 16, and Eamonn Walsh and I have just been spit out of the last plane of the day at Kahiltna base camp. We stare up at the Moonflower Buttress of Mt. Hunter, which stands front-row center in this arena. The Moonflower will be first, then the Infinite Spur on Foraker. But failure on the Moonflower quickly teaches us about moving efficiently in Alaska, so we take a day of rest, then begin our long journey up the Infinite Spur. We have planned for a 10-day round trip. We climb the Spur despite nasty storms, deep snow, being caught in avalanches, heavy packs, and cold. We free the route without hauling our 55-pound packs. We suffer like we never imagined possible. We fly out spending less then three days in base camp.

We did a new variation on the Infinite Spur by staying on the rib proper. It may have been a bit slower but proved to be the best climbing on the route. Above the icy rib the route is blocked by a rock buttress. On the first and second ascents the teams skirted the buttress to the right on snow slopes but then encountered loose 5.9 rock. Last year’s third- and fourth-ascent teams avoided the bad rock by going left around the buttress but found snow and ice climbing that was unaesthetic and slow. We went up a gully that splits the buttress and offers three really good pitches up to AI4. Subsequent ascents this year went our way as well.

Above the buttress previous and subsequent parties have gone left on snow slopes to reach the base of the dreaded Horizontal Ridge. We went straight up the rib and had four more pitches of primo mixed climbing up to M5. Recommended.

Rob Owens, Canada

American Alpine Journal 2002
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Feb 24, 2016 - 04:04pm PT
bumpers
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