Discussion Topic |
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NASH
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 22, 2015 - 01:32pm PT
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Does anyone know of a reputable source for a Self Rescue course in Southern California? Any information is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Mar 22, 2015 - 01:37pm PT
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No idea on courses.
Suggest reading what you can. Then finding a place to hang a rope and fiddle around with escaping from the system and knot bypasses under load. hauling sytems may be useful.. Have fun playing with gear. Try various absurd ideas and and minimalist approaches.. and of course also practice doing it by the book... it's fun practice and the main thing is to get to the point that the principles are second nature so you can improvise easily on the fly.
Worst case scenario is that you are basically soloing with a big pig that requires first aid. Fortunately you only have to go down..well maybe after getting sh#t to and setup at an anchor.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Mar 22, 2015 - 01:41pm PT
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way back when, I hired a guide for a day (SP Parker at Sierra Mountain center?). I got 3 friends together and we payed for a day of training. Call any of the reputable guide services around and see if they'll do the same.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Mar 22, 2015 - 01:41pm PT
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Gaines does rescue courses? Yeah jump on that then!
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NASH
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2015 - 01:52pm PT
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Awesome! Thanks everyone for the suggestions
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ruppell
climber
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Mar 22, 2015 - 03:50pm PT
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Get a few self-rescue books and figure out the principles and systems. Rig stuff in your garage or from a tree and dial it in. Then find a few buddies and a guide to actually use them. You'll get way more out of the day if you already understand what you'll be practicing. And if you can get Bob Gaines get him.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 22, 2015 - 03:59pm PT
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Try with shoe laces too:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Also practice using pitons as a lethal throwing dagger. It just might save you.
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Mar 22, 2015 - 05:56pm PT
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Ditto for Bob Gaines/Vertical Adventures.
I've taken many classes from him and his outfit is top notch.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Mar 22, 2015 - 07:15pm PT
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That James Bond movie messed up my prussiking skills for years. For some reason my mind locked onto the false datum that prusiks should be the size of shoelaces. LOL
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 22, 2015 - 07:19pm PT
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What is a scenario where a self rescue is required?
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 22, 2015 - 07:25pm PT
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Bob Gaines will surely teach you how to rescue yourself from that ^^^^^^
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Mar 22, 2015 - 07:30pm PT
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'Gaines'
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 22, 2015 - 07:31pm PT
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Thanks apogee ...
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Mar 22, 2015 - 07:38pm PT
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Werner, what should every climber know that most don't? Maybe a top five list if you please. :)
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Mar 22, 2015 - 07:42pm PT
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I've got a canyoneer friend who raps waterfalls all the time and doesn't carry prussik loops and had never practiced with them.
I was thinking about getting him and some other people I care about together here in SoCal for a self rescue practice workshop.
1. Prussik out of a waterfall.
2. C-pulley & Z-pulley setup, as in crevasse rescue but also to be used in self rescue as in lifting self on lead or top rope. Also lifting fallen or stuck leader.
3. Fallen climber tie-off - a-la-SCMA safety test.
4. Knots drilling. Like the time I self rescued by extending my lead rope by splicing cordelettes on to the end with double fisherman's
knots. I think Levy knows some way amazing knots that are good for other cool stuff.
One good skill for self rescue is the ability to abandon gear no matter how much it costs in the store.
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Flip Flop
climber
salad bowl, california
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Mar 22, 2015 - 09:13pm PT
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Wow Spider, your friend is a wildcard. Self-rescue ascending is a top priority in canyons.
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covelocos
Trad climber
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Mar 22, 2015 - 09:28pm PT
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Self rescue ~ refers to actions and techniques, taken by either an individual climber or teams, to retreat or advance from situations which would leave them, otherwise unprepared, stranded (and, possibly, dead).
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Mar 22, 2015 - 09:35pm PT
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PM Rokjox.
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Mar 22, 2015 - 10:45pm PT
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What is a scenario where a self rescue is required?
Here's one, but there are many different situations while roped soloing a route.
Rope soloing and you take a fall above an overhang, swinging into the wall below and breaking an arm. Not enough rope to get down and hanging in space.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 22, 2015 - 10:52pm PT
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Not enough rope to get down and hanging in space.
What do you do now?
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Mar 22, 2015 - 11:06pm PT
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First, scream like hell and hope someone is around.
If not, break, out a couple of prussic's and/or a couple of runners and slowly make your way up. Its going to be slow going with a broken arm, but it can be done.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Mar 23, 2015 - 12:14am PT
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Split the rope down the middle?
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meuw
Big Wall climber
Europe
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Mar 24, 2015 - 08:21pm PT
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Thanks for great thread, I`ve just started to search the same
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NASH
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2015 - 03:04pm PT
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Thanks for all the help, and amusement. You guys are great!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 31, 2015 - 04:02pm PT
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If you are not limber enough to kiss your ass good by you shouldn't be climbing.
(How come nobody has told NASH that he is going to die?)
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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NASH-
Yer gonna die
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Someone please explain to NASH about the black humor prevalent on the taco.
He just sent me the following;
This message has been sent from a fellow registered SuperTopo climbing member to you.
The message is:
pardon me for trying to be better, safer climber. I've been climbing for over 8 years and thought a Self Rescue course would be a good idea in case i kick a boulder onto my buddy's head.
you better hope i don't see you in trouble somewhere, i wouldn't piss in your mouth if your gums were on fire.
Sent by: NASH
Listen Mr. Hot Head,
I've been climbing for 48 years, have put up one or two routes, and was among the first 10 rock guides in this country to be fully certified by the AMGA.
That is how I know S.P. Parker, and many who teach self rescue, such as myself.
You need to get educated and contrite.
(somebody buy this guy a clue)
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Onewhowalksonrocks
Mountain climber
Ventura
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i used to teach that with every lead class i gave. bob is good, but if want a great class check out nols.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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"Paging Doug Scott. Will Mr Doug Scott please crawl to the nearest courtesy phone?"
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thebravecowboy
climber
Lost Park
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Cpt. O, hey, I mean, c'mon, the fella's been climbing for over 8 years, okay? ;-)
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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I guess Capm Pissgums Jr. didn't catch when, a few years ago, a guy from germany came on the taco looking for beta who obviously had difficulties with english and so I warned him in german that if somebody said "yer gonna die" not to take it personally. It is only a taco mantra.
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thebravecowboy
climber
Lost Park
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We are all terminal anyway, and the expression speaks of the levity that gets us through the tight spots. Like when you are clipped in tight some several pitches up and the gear starts jitterbug buzzing with the electricity coming down from the clouds. We're All Gonna Die!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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and of course.
When I'm around and all have survived the day of adventure.
I propose the toast:
Here's to Cheating Death
Most like it, but some seem distressed at the thought.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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I messed up. I've only been climbing 47 years (what a noob).
But by the time I'd been climbing 8 years I had made the FSAs and even a SFA of numerous desert summits and had put up Pervertical, Touchstone and soloed most of Space Shot, all with just pins and nuts. Capm Pissgums Jr. better get on the stick!
Do you know your;
autoblock
garda
Bachman
mule knot
Kleimheist
counter balance rescue
reduction/ deflation tension pneumothorax
trachiostemy
concussion diagnostic skills
Do you carry a SAM? A cordellette? A compass with signal mirror?
Besides, Pissgums, didn't you know that during early WW1 the issued "gas masks" were wire cages filled with thick batting that the soldier was told to urinate on so that the ammonia would neutralize the gas.
Soon better masks were issued and all the soldiers agreed that they would never talk about the early masks ever again!
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Flip Flop
climber
salad bowl, california
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Why would your gums be on fire? Is that a thing that happens?
None of the EMT classes or WEMT classes discussed that. Werner, neither you, Dill or Page ever said anything about burning gums.
So, Toker Villain is really run out and trying to make a lasso move. He's got the rope in his toothless gums and a 30 foot loop for the lasso move. Well he's a little stressed about the situation and he's toking on a substantial bob marley. He's climbing with Ron in BFE Nevada and someone spilled white lightning on the rope. Toker makes the lasso move and starts the tension traverse over a substantial abyss. The doobage goes out mid traverse and in the process of relighting it his gums light on fire. I still don't see it. Seems like a reach. And how are you supposed to piss up that far anyway?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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How did you know I was an Egyptologist?
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Flip Flop
climber
salad bowl, california
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I can smell burning papyrus a mile away.
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NASH
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2015 - 10:57pm PT
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Toker-
Thank you for throwing me under the bus. My PM to you was unwarranted and immature. I was unaware of the Taco and its banter. My skin is not a thick as yours so please, accept my apology. My mouth is wide open awaiting that golden stream to snuff out my fiery gums. - pissgums
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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I dig it when the boys kiss and make up right here on the Taco.
And Flipper Flopper that's some funny shite:-)
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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We're cool NASH; having a bit of fun.
You need help on the stuff I listed contact me on half, and the rest on my doc buds.
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| Messages 1 - 42 of total 42 in this topic |
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