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yosguns
climber
San Mateo, California
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Mar 20, 2015 - 11:50am PT
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My two cents as a woman who is always interested in getting other women interested in climbing:
Vitaliy has some wisdom there.
Regardless of what you do, don't have any expectations and don't try to show off. Eliminate your ego entirely. Also, COMMUNICATION! Tell her what to expect, what you expect, anything you can think of that might be difficult (like, if she can't hear you when you're climbing multipitch, if you don't have walkie talkies, how to use the rope tugging system). Be considerate; anticipate how a climb or scenario might affect her and address things ahead of time.
It's hard to get inside someone's head without being him or her, but consider these possibilities: She wants to impress you, so offer compliments when they're genuine and make everything fun. She will do things that push her in order to demonstrate how willing she is to join you and how capable she is (ie, to prove herself), but that's not a bad thing and doesn't mean she wouldn't do these things if you were eliminated from the equation entirely.
Some good options:
-Manure Pile
-Commitment
-P&J
-I've heard Cookie Sheet is nice, too...
-I would wait for longer routes until you see how she does on shorter stuff.
Cheers,
Allyson
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CCT
Trad climber
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Mar 20, 2015 - 12:17pm PT
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Woah man. Some of you folks are crazy. Commitment to Selaginella finishing with the hike to the top of the falls? The chimney pitch on Reed's? Half Dome hike followed by Royal Arches the next day?? Has it really been that long since you've climbed with a novice?
Do After 6, or the After 7 variation of the first pitch. If she likes it, keep going up. If not, bail after P1. Plenty of ledges to stop and enjoy the view.
Munginella. It has height, some complexity for the belayer, a fun "hidden" path to the base, and a heads-up walk down.
For more advanced technique, set up a toprope on Knob Hill. The 5.8 slab at the bottom of Pot Belly will give her a run for her money, and the crack is short but classic.
If she survives those and is still smiling, you'll have a good sense of what else to do.
If Tuolumne is open and she's a hiker, Cathedral Peak with an early start. Snake Dike if she's really solid.
For the non-climbing days: Mist Trail is a can't miss, and Half Dome is nice too. One day for relaxing in the El Cap meadow, checking out the Ansel Adams gallery, and visiting the Yosemite museum. One day for driving to the Mariposa Grove, Glacier Point, and Tuolumne.
Have fun!
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Mar 20, 2015 - 12:34pm PT
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Woah man. Some of you folks are crazy.
This is why I visit the taco - and of course all the great beta.
Have fun in the Valley!
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yosguns
climber
San Mateo, California
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Mar 20, 2015 - 01:05pm PT
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I think Commitment is actually feasible...Munginella and Commitment are pretty similar less that one roof move.
I was thinking about some other suggestions: Sunnyside Bench, Churchbowl stuff, and start at Swan Slab. The Grak?
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Mar 20, 2015 - 01:05pm PT
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Woah man. Some of you folks are crazy. Commitment to Selaginella finishing with the hike to the top of the falls? The chimney pitch on Reed's? Half Dome hike followed by Royal Arches the next day?? Has it really been that long since you've climbed with a novice?
QFT. I think some of you hardmen have lost a bit of perspective. BUILT like Lynn Hill=/=CLIMBS like Lynn Hill.
Reiterating my suggestions from the previous page, start someplace SUPER mellow where you're close enough to her the entire time for the first few climbs to offer encouragement and suggestions. There's no underestimating the importance of confidence builders. It's easier to progress from easy to hard, than it is to recover from hard to easy.
Are you planning on teaching her to belay? If so you'll want to stay within veiwing/speaking distance while doing it (assuming there isn't going to be a third who can stay on the ground with her).
If you do end up on a multipitch route make sure she's comfortable checking herself out BEFORE you head up and possibly out of sight.
And like CCT said, rest days are key, and there's more to the Valley than climbing. Mist Trail, Sentinal Dome, hell, just cruising around the floor is a kick.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 20, 2015 - 01:19pm PT
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don't have any expectations and don't try to show off. Eliminate your ego entirely.
WOAH do you want him to stop being a guy? Damn we need some realistic expectations here! Shiet....
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yosguns
climber
San Mateo, California
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Mar 20, 2015 - 01:55pm PT
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Ha ha ha. I thought aiming for entirely would render positive results...
Actually, I did think about writing that after the fact. Oops. I guess I have impossible standards.
It's impossible to do...eliminate your ego entirely.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Mar 20, 2015 - 02:31pm PT
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20 and athletic with no climbjng background. Well now, this all depends on how capable YOU are!
Nothing spooks out a newbie like belaying a leader who's muttering "I thought there was a bolt around here somewhere" (don't ask how I know)
Or put another way, for starters take her up climbs you've led or at least climbed a couple of times.
It's also not a lot of fun for a newbie to be hanging on the rope trying to fiddle a stuck cam out of a crack.
Has she ever done a multi-pitch rappel?
Hiked big mountains with EXPOSURE?
So my list:
Pine Line: EXCELLENT though short. Good place to learn how to remove tricky gear placements while on thin holds. No way to get hurt (caveat emptor). From the Tree, "hike" exposed 3d class (belay may be a good idea) over right and up to look up the Nose route to Sickle Ledge. Good First Rappel experience.
Grack Center (the Apron). Meets all the above criteria if you've led it before. You want to know where to start and end pitch 1 or you'll be fussing about, stoking her anxiety (been there, done that). Gets you up high with great views.
Double rope rapps skier's left to somewhat obscure belay anchors. Drop off overhang at Grack Marginal just for a thrill. You can make it with one rope but again, I wouldn't with a newbie.
If she's stoked, move over to Harry Daley to learn precise footwork and steep jamming.
Little John Right: 2 1/2 pitches right under the Big Stone. Some rappel experience recommended.
If she proves as tough as you expect Arches Terrace is excellent. For a Real Adventure don't rap the route. Take the classic finish up and right to Bishop's Balcony, traverse across it (scarce, very small pro) to the rapp rings on the far right side.
Munginella (warmup) to Selaginella is a great 1/2 day linkup. Walk off the Falls Trail. Highly varied climbing. Jamming, liebacking (last pitch of Selly is classic), moderately steep face. Once above Mungy, you'll be on your own. About 10 pitches total. Start EARLY to avoid the Mungy cluster F**K
So now she's digging it. Time for a moderate Big Day. Arrowhead Arete. Stout approach. Really Up There! Above even Royal Arches. The crux is just a few moves, disputed either 5.8 or 5.9. AMAZING knife edge ridge a cheval (look that up in your dictionary of French climbing terms).
Difficult, slightly dangerous mandatory rappel descent down West Arrowhead Chimney. Don't go there unless she's gotten the hang of multi pitch rappels. If it spooks you too much you can do just Arrowhead Spire. Helmets highly recommended.
For a finale if she's really up to it, there's always Snake Dike or Royal Arches.
I've taken strong newbies up all these except Arrowhead Arete and Selaginella.
Mostly, pay close attention to her anxiety level before getting her committed to any particular climb.
I have coaxed newbie women and men up climbs. It can work......or go badly wrong.
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yosguns
climber
San Mateo, California
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Mar 20, 2015 - 03:25pm PT
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Do not take her on Arrowhead Arete. The descent is really loose right now. If she doesn't have a lot of experience in gullies, I don't think this is a good idea.
Also, Munginella to Selaginella is 7 pitches.
Allyson
EDIT: Even if she does have a lot of experience in gullies...
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Mar 20, 2015 - 04:07pm PT
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Harry Daley Route
Sunnyside Bench JCR
Bishop Terrace if you like hand jamming
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Mar 20, 2015 - 04:27pm PT
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Mudshark to sunrise special above cascade falls. East Buttress of Middle Time for a moderate Big Day. Arrowhead Arete.
What's with this sissy crap? You've got 7 days? Plenty of time to teach her to jug and haul her up The Nose.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Mar 20, 2015 - 07:49pm PT
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Thank you JStan!
Most of these responses about what a newbie can do are completely delusional.
Swan slab easies - make sure she is comfortable with bring lowered, some people freeze in terror
Aunt Fannies , i think it's 5.4
Grack but make sure she is comfortable going higher than 1 pitch. Everyone reacts to heights and exposure Differently.
I personally think the valley is a bad place for a newbie.
But... If she's a natural and takes to it well and can do a 5.7 there is enough for a week.
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Flip Flop
climber
salad bowl, california
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2015 - 07:59pm PT
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Good stuff. We'll keep the climbing to half days. Plaisir. With the weather so good I thought about a bivy in Little Yosemite Valley and a belayed scramble up the cables.
Royal Arches is a long shot but there would be a third.
The best life advice in there was to make it all seem like my goals. That's great advice. Allyson is smart and V has a great list.
Anybody hiked Sierra Point lately?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 20, 2015 - 10:32pm PT
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the problem with Commitment for a beginner is the starting crack...
Little John, Right might be ok, also crack...
for crack perhaps go to Sunnyside and do Jam Crack, set it up as a top rope so you can tutor from the belay, and you could then top rope something a lot harder if you think that will work...
Knob Hill is a good suggestion
After Six should be a very mild intro to multipitch
Ejesta but only after cracks aren't a mystery.
Get an early-ish start if doing anything over on the Five Open Books because of the possibility of dropped rocks from above.
Snake Dike is a real adventure and I think possible for a beginner, and it has a killer summit.
In general, it's better to end the trip with the sentiment that you'd wished to have had done more, than the feeling that you tried to do too much.
Sierra Point view, from June 2014
great hike on a non-maintained trail.
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Flip Flop
climber
salad bowl, california
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2015 - 08:15pm PT
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WBraun
climber
Mar 19, 2015 - 07:38pm PT
Just hike up the mist trail ......
Now that you've been inspired start out on some easy warm ups.
Phoenix, Tales of Power, Phantom then to sprint up the Nose ......
Sounds great. What should we do on the second day?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 21, 2015 - 11:25pm PT
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Just thought i'd point out that if she accomplishes your tick list, she's a keeper... Sandra and i have only accomplished the first three climbing objectives, after two visits to the sacred valley.
Couple of other good one's we've managed to tick: The Grack Centre, Regular Route, Sunnyside Bench, Northwest Books on Lembert Dome.
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Flip Flop
climber
salad bowl, california
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2015 - 09:51am PT
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It's an ever moving target.
Day 1. El Cap Base Hiking
Swan Slabs
El Cap layback
Day 2. Mirror Lake
Swan Slabs
El Cap layback
Day 3. Mist Trail
Swan Slabs
El Cap layback
Day 4. After 6
El Cap layback
Day 5. Ladies choice
Day 6. Nutcracker or Royal Arches or Half Dome party of 3.
Day 7. El Cap layback
( I made many early trips to the valley with barely any success. Finally, some old coot agreed to go on Braille Book. He got the snail-eye and I had to lead it. Full Value.)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 22, 2015 - 10:01am PT
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maybe your hikes could also be around the climbing places...
e.g.
Knob Hill
Old Big Oak Flats Rd from the Forresta Rd. intersection
Church Bowl
Indian Canyon to Lehamite Falls
Sunnyside Bench
continue on to the base of Upper Yosemite Falls
Manure Pile
explore Eagle Creek to perhaps Michael's Ledge or Split Pinnacle area
SW Base of El Cap
eastern start to Old Big Oak Flats Rd
Royal Arches Base climbs
Mirror Lake trail, loop under Ahwiyah Pt.
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Flip Flop
climber
salad bowl, california
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2015 - 10:36am PT
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Nice Ed. I'm exactly for having well rounded outings. I came to the walls from the mountains and came to the mountains from the paths. This trip is about enjoyment, exploration and confidence building( for both of us).I like your vision. Thanks for sharing the beta.
I could spend a week just doing new approaches. After probably 400+ days in the Park in 35 years ( more than half Tuolumne) I'm still a newbie. I'm going to try to double that number in the next 5 years. I owe a ton to the inspiring old dads and ageless climber babes shouting encouragement around the campfire, here.
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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Mar 22, 2015 - 09:06pm PT
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Mr Flip Flop Sir,
Sierra Point is a great choice. You get to follow the abandoned trail through haunted trees up the ancient stone steps:
You’ll eventually get to the scary overlook-the only place in the valley where you can see five Yosemite waterfalls:
It’s a great place to spend a full moon night.
Another good choice is the crawling cave next to the Lower Falls Trail. I walked right by the entrance for 40 years before someone showed it to me. You snake through a small opening and crawl on your belly for what seems like an eternity and come out a couple hundred feet up the trail. Pitch black-not a trace of light. The locals dress it up with spider webs and spooky stuff for their kids for Halloween.
Another great place to visit is the base of El Cap. It is probably the coolest place in the world, especially during inclement weather. You can be at the base, totally dry, while there’s a curtain of water 50’ out.
I could go on and on about cool non-5.14 climbing places to explore in The Trench.
I’m wondering what hula-hooping Truckee girl you’ve talked into this…..
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