An honest question.....How long do you guys give Hondo?

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brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 18, 2015 - 08:54am PT
Is the statement true, there are no old free soloers?

I hear people say that but then I think of dudes like Peter Croft who are still killing it. Granted Croft isn't that old, but I could see him doing what he does till old age gets him in bed one night and not gravity. Given a long enough time frame we all meet the reaper in one shape or form.

So if Alex Honnold continues to push the limits and solo hundreds upon hundreds of routes, is it true that chances are he will meet the reaper at some point? How long can he realistically keep this pace up?

I'm just curious as to what some of the tacos opinions are given the vast wealth of history and climbing knowledge here.

This is in no way meant to bash Alex in any way. I admire the man and envy his lifestyle to some extent. Being superhuman is not a gift bestowed on all of us. I just find what he does so far above and beyond what most people do that I hope he can keep it up indefinitely and not lose it all.

I recently had a friend take a 40 ft fall soloing at New Jack City and he is lucky to be alive. He shattered vertebrae, broke his arm, and obliterated both of his feet to the point where they were de-gloved. There was even talk of amputation for a while. He seems to be in good spirits but he knows he has a long road ahead and that he may be permanently crippled. He realizes now how dumb soloing was for him personally. Coincidentally he is the same guy that was doing the naked porch swing when the boys were sending the dawn wall.

At any rate my buddies story has just got me thinking of how fast a life can change. I'm just curious and seeking some honest opinions and time frames for the questions I posed above. (EDIT: I'm not talking about exact dates, it's more a general question of how long can one truly live on the edge)Sorry if this is a downer topic, but this is real life s*#t here.

climb on,
brotherB
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2015 - 09:00am PT
I should be dead already
enjoimx

Trad climber
Yosemite
Mar 18, 2015 - 09:04am PT
I recently had a friend take a 40 ft fall soloing at New Jack City and he is lucky to be alive. He shattered vertebrae, broke his arm, and obliterated both of his feet to the point where they were de-gloved. There was even talk of amputation for a while. He seems to be in good spirits but he knows he has a long road ahead and that he may be permanently crippled. He realizes now how dumb soloing was for him personally. Coincidentally he is the same guy that was doing the naked porch swing when the boys were sending the dawn wall.

Uhhhhhh.....
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2015 - 09:05am PT
Hahaha DMT. I sure hope so.

I got a young son now, so I have stepped it down a few notches.

climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Mar 18, 2015 - 09:17am PT
Odds are against him. That's just the fact of the matter. His choice though. Wouldn't stop him if I could.

Long long ago realized that this type of true extreme lifestyle gets a lot of the best. Boivan, Vallencant, Alex Lowe. Bachar, the list goes on forever it seems. Especially if you look at all the really extreme sports. Early hanggliding, Extreme skiing, 8000m Mountaineering, Top end alpinism, BASE.

Listing the guys at the top who made it to old age/retirement is a shorter list it seems. Mesner, Roskelly, Cassin, Bonnatti, Donini.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Mar 18, 2015 - 09:21am PT
He'll probably last longer than I will driving the 405!
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Mar 18, 2015 - 09:24am PT
In the climbing world, Alex Honnold is a "public figure", and as such is talked about extensively by strangers and barely acquaintances. The question you raise is not an unreasonable one but the issue is, is anything gained by discussing it?

Public figures such as Presidents of the US get questions raised about them all yhe time - "is George Bush a dry drunk?", "does Obama secretly hate America". People raise and debate these questions under the guise of public interest.

One could argue that there is a "public interest" value in having people give their opinions on your question, but personally it strikes me more in the realm of gossipy entertainment to indulge in it.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Mar 18, 2015 - 09:26am PT
By the way, we must be neighbors.
Sorry to hear about your friend, that's awful.
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2015 - 09:31am PT
phylp,

You're right there is nothing to gain necessarily by discussing it. Just something I thought of recently due to my friends situation.
couchmaster

climber
Mar 18, 2015 - 09:44am PT

The man is clearly not part of the normal equation. The rest of us will all fall and get hurt before he will. Was surprised that both Dwight Bishop and Bachar cashed in free soloing though, so who can say. Aren't these discussions normally done around a campfire while drinking though?

In fact, I'm uncomfortable discussing it now, not sure why. Perhaps it seems a tad morbid and sort of violates Alex's privacy in a way. I wouldn't want a public conversation like this to screw with the lads head if he happens to catch it.......and I think I will recuse myself from any further posts on this topic.

apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Mar 18, 2015 - 09:44am PT
I get where you're coming from...I think your question is something of an 'elephant in the room' in many climber's minds who see such amazing talents doing things as far on the edge as humanly possible.

You watch people like Honnold, or Potter, etc., while knowing that there was a time when Reardon, or Osman, etc. were out there on the same edge. And it does make you wonder.
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2015 - 09:50am PT
Well said Apogee.

That is indeed what I was getting at.
John Duffield

Mountain climber
New York
Mar 18, 2015 - 09:54am PT
The man is clearly not part of the normal equation. The rest of us will all fall and get hurt before he will.


Exactly. Enjoy the show and stay within your limits.
crankster

Trad climber
Mar 18, 2015 - 10:05am PT
I'm with apogee, although conjecturing about someone's demise makes me uneasy.
ECF

Big Wall climber
Ouray, CO.
Mar 18, 2015 - 10:35am PT
Everyone dies.
People act like you would have lived forever if you were more careful.

Old age isn't for everybody.

Solo for yourself.
My beef comes in when guys are soloing to attract sponsors.
Clif bar is on the leading edge of the backlash that is surely coming.
"Badass" blows away in the wind, to the tears of a crying mother.

But if he goes early, he left a proud legacy, and the most badass NatGeo cover EVER!
Better than most, and still going...

And scrap the cheesy nicknames.
His name is Alex.
At this point, everyone will know who you are talking about.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 18, 2015 - 10:50am PT
Royal Robbins did his share of free soloing, and turned 80 recently. Peter Haan did some cutting edge soloing in his day, too, and is still around enriching this site.

I suppose, if I wanted to be cynical, I could rephrase the question this way: How many free soloists will stop doing so for reasons other than death?

John
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Mar 18, 2015 - 10:58am PT
I think I understand your insinuation, DMT, and that's just not a fair connection to make.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Mar 18, 2015 - 10:59am PT
It doesn't seem very many like him have survived to old age. I think most of us over 30-40 or so understand the realities of statistics.

It's not our business, though. It's his life.

Day as a tiger better than the life of a sheep, etc.

I respect him - more-so now as he grows older. Not what I would choose, and it would be sad to loose him, but he's done some pretty amazing things with his life so far.

I envy him at some level, and I think a lot of people are covering their own envy by throwing out these "you're going to die" comments so they can feel better about their own boring lives.
ECF

Big Wall climber
Ouray, CO.
Mar 18, 2015 - 11:06am PT
Oh, Locker,
You so know me...
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Mar 18, 2015 - 11:17am PT
I think your question is something of an 'elephant in the room' in many climber's minds who see such amazing talents doing things as far on the edge as humanly possible.

Nailed it.


My hope is that he'll burn through some more great, almost unrepeatable solos, then decide he's seen enough of the edge of the abyss and decide to take up full time roped climbing.

As we know, a rope is no guarantee either....




brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2015 - 11:19am PT
I don't like conjecturing about his demise either.

So I apologize to anyone who is uneasy with the topic.

Like I said before... the incident with my friend just got me thinking about soloing and life in general.

When you find your self worth in physical things that you do like climbing, running, etc., and they are taken away from you it can be a living hell. Depression sinks in and questions of whether life is even worth living can arise.

I just turned 37 last month making me a bit older than Alex. So I really admire what he is capable of, and I wish I could climb half as hard as he could.

My buddy who is now barely out of the hospital just turned 33. I just see how altered his life has become and I think about him often when I do simple things like taking a run, or picking my son up and rough housing with him. We take so much for granted in our daily lives and don't realize it till its gone.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Mar 18, 2015 - 11:20am PT
Will we climbers stop paying Honnold to solo?

Apogee, of course it's a fair connection to make. We all purchase gear from the companies that support him. We're not boycotting them or calling for the end of sponsorship. We love to watch the professional videos that he's in.
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Mar 18, 2015 - 11:29am PT
We do love to watch those videos, and that is our choice, just like it's Honnold's choice to do these amazing things as a part of his commercial identity.

That's not the same thing as paying Honnold directly to solo crazy sh#t, or forcing him to entertain us with his mastery. It's his choice.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Mar 18, 2015 - 11:35am PT
"Welcome my son,....welcome to the machine."

"All in all it's just another brick in the wall."
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2015 - 11:41am PT
I agree Locker!

Well said. My friend will have to find something else to keep the depression from rooting deep.
nah000

climber
no/w/here
Mar 18, 2015 - 11:47am PT
i think dmt asks the more important question...

except i don't think it should be asked of just climbers...

only reason we, and at this point the general public, know about alex and guys like jeb corliss is because they and their teams promote themselves and we eat it all up in a wonderful cycle of recurrent emotional and financial affirmation...

while it's a tricky one, with a pretty grey line, i'm not a big fan of the commodifying of research into human potential that happens where an individual's life is hanging onto such a fine line...

not saying it shouldn't happen, just that it'd be great if we could at least wait until they live to old age or retirement before we start the rewarding and the celebrating... let them fund their own personal wars/adventures... when/if they survive, then let's fete and reward them for the battles and dragon slaying that they were successfully able to navigate.

for me it's as distasteful as if soldiers in the heat of battle started wearing sponsors logos and go pros on their heads all while promoting themselves on their own personal youtube channels.

everybody has a fate, and i have nothing but respect for alex's path.

otoh, how we as a collective have responded for the last 75 or so years [at least?] to these types of ventures is a bit too far towards the roman gladiator end of the spectrum for my tastes...
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Mar 18, 2015 - 12:01pm PT
I come at it from the person doing it point of view. I don't care if folks get a thrill out of watching it. That is their issue. Alex has found a way to do what he loves as much as he wants and perhaps he enjoys the recognition and respect.. perhaps he can make good money...perhaps thats just a price he pays..hell if i know..it's his life...whatever. Most of that seems an enviable position to be in if it's what you want.

Fact is he regularly hangs his life on factors outside his control with no backup. His choice and he is well aware of it. Bumped into him on several occasions, had conversations.. I like the guy so I dread hearing the day he is gone....I knew Alex Lowe much better..I absolutely expected it with that Alex..a little less with this one but still consider it likely.. Perhaps it will not happen.. I hope not.

Regardless I love the fact that he can live his way, his choice eyes wide open. What an amazing enjoyable living..so rare and worthwhile.

In the end we all die.. but that dude is megaliving right now,
little Z

Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
Mar 18, 2015 - 12:09pm PT
We love to watch the professional videos that he's in.

watching the videos that were on that NY Times link that was posted a little while ago, we get a very up close and personal look of Alex in action. There are Alex's fingertips in the crack of The Phoenix...there is Alex's cool and calm face... It makes it all the more chilling in my opinion. Not like watching someone solo something from the ground.

So if the unspeakable happens, will it be on film, up close and personal?
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Mar 18, 2015 - 12:10pm PT
Unlikely since the vast majority of his solo's are truly solo...although that is what happened to McConkey.
son of stan

Boulder climber
San Jose CA
Mar 18, 2015 - 12:18pm PT
Buying and using trad gear is much much cheaper than the $5000
deductible obamacare fee hospitals require before they will start to set
multiple broken bones.

Studly

Trad climber
WA
Mar 18, 2015 - 12:46pm PT


[Click to View YouTube Video]
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 18, 2015 - 12:48pm PT
Let me get it straight, you want us to throw out some dates of when we think Alex will meet his creator? This is one tasteless troll.
If you are seriously wondering this, for a better answer, approach Alex when he is in Yosemite and ask him. None of the internet experts know what Alex does.
Personally, I think he takes calculated risks just like all of us and he will do everything in his powers to stay safe, like most of us. He is not my best friend, but he was very successful at everything he has done in his life, based on articles written about him. So I think he is very smart and has things figured out. I honestly think risks he takes are smaller than risks some gumbies take on munginella.
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2015 - 01:03pm PT
No Vitality I don't want dates.

If it was a troll then thanks for biting.

I think I clarified my thoughts more than adequately, and positively responded to those posts I agreed with....so maybe reread the thread.

crankster

Trad climber
Mar 18, 2015 - 01:08pm PT
He's one of the most visible professional climbers in the world. He free solos at the highest level of the sport. He's working on a free solo of El Cap. Seems to me this thread, perhaps wrongly worded, puts out a valid point for discussion.
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2015 - 01:09pm PT
Yes Crankster, you seem to get it.

I'm not the most eloquent with words, I'll be the first to admit that.

EDIT I made a slight edit to my OP for clarification.
Andy de klerk

Mountain climber
South Africa
Mar 18, 2015 - 01:55pm PT
Odds are against him. That's just the fact of the matter. His choice though. Wouldn't stop him if I could.

Long long ago realized that this type of true extreme lifestyle gets a lot of the best. Boivan, Vallencant, Alex Lowe. Bachar, the list goes on forever it seems. Especially if you look at all the really extreme sports. Early hanggliding, Extreme skiing, 8000m Mountaineering, Top end alpinism, BASE.

Listing the guys at the top who made it to old age/retirement is a shorter list it seems. Mesner, Roskelly, Cassin, Bonnatti, Donini.

Nice one climb2ski

Let's all let Alex do what he wants to do
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 18, 2015 - 02:46pm PT
Ok, sorry, maybe I didn't get it, thought the title "how long do you guys give Hondo?" is asking us to estimate how long his free soloing career will last. Comprehension may not be on the same level as my visual appearance, English is my second language. :)
I think we all can agree that Alex is pushing the limits of soloing, which is risky, but this is why he is currently considered to be the best at what he does (in USA at least). Prior to him there were others. Some are alive some are dead. Riordan didn't die soloing. Croft didn't. Bachar didn't die soloing his big project. Like headpointing, redpointing or sending the bouldering proj, these guys work out every move and only when they believe that they have it completely dialed they go out and perform. He doesn't just go out onsight soloing things at his limit everyday.
Personally, I believe your typical climber takes more risk soloing the Evolution Traverse vs Honnold soloing Astroman.
For me it is hard to comprehend how one could feel solid doing the slabby crux of half dome and some of the other stuff he and some others do, but this is exactly what separates them from us. If he was careless or crazy he would be gone by now. Seems like he is a complete opposite of crazy or careless. More like smart, very hard working and talented. He is one of the few climbers that are making an impact on this world with his public articles about the impact people are making on this world, view of diet, religion etc. I like that he has views and expresses them.
His roped climbs are quite impressive too. Linking up El Cap, HD and Watkins set a new standard for link ups in the Valley. It is becoming the new El Cap/HD link up, with numerous people wanting to work up to that. Traversing the Fitz Roy Range and almost getting the Torre Traverse in a day with Colin Haley is super awesome as well. So is his Alaska trips, speed records on El Cap and how about those 7 El Cap walls in 7 days. Holly sh#t. I am destroyed for 2-3 days after doing any El Cap route in a day or otherwise. Very impressive.
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Mar 18, 2015 - 03:10pm PT
Can we talk about something else?
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2015 - 03:13pm PT
Touché Vitality. Good post, I agree wholeheartedly.

I am in no way wanting to hinder anything anyone does.

But...do we just not talk about such things?

Or is everyone fired up because of the thread title!!??!
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Mar 18, 2015 - 03:20pm PT
I think it's a reasonable subject. The thread title is a little hyperbolic, though, complicated by the usual unwillingness to read the entire thread before commenting.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Mar 18, 2015 - 04:28pm PT
It is a deeply personal thing to know what one is capable of doing, and what one is willing to risk for what is gained (or for what baggage is stripped away).

The variables are so different between different people, it makes it almost impossible to find a common frame of reference to make it a meaningful discussion. In the end, we all live and die with the choices we make, and to varying degrees we affect the lives of people we touch. This goes for rock climbing, driving, leading a sedentary lifestyle and eating too much sugar or saturated fat, or anything.

We can debate degrees of risk and reward forever without settling anything, but it's reasonable fodder for the campfire.

I don't judge Alex, but I am in awe. My only hope for him is that his ability to tune out the noise around him and heed his own inner voice keeps pace with the growing level of noise around him. That in itself seems to require deep reserves of wisdom, presence, and self-understanding at an age when most people are finding their own limits and identities and making mistakes and gaining wisdom. C'est la vie!
WBraun

climber
Mar 18, 2015 - 05:09pm PT
He has no control over his actions. Nobody has.

That's not true at all ever.

There's danger at every step for every living being at every moment.

It's not who you are and nor what you do, but what's in your destiny (stars).
zBrown

Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
Mar 18, 2015 - 05:33pm PT
I agree with Herr Braun. Mr. Honnold could die in a van accident tomorrow as could any of us (even if you don't have a van, someone may accidentally kill you with one).

As to how long he will continue to do very dangerous climbing, I'd say in three years he will quit and become a chef and possibly take up surfing. He will not use a leash or wetsuit and he will not do tow in.



WBraun

climber
Mar 18, 2015 - 05:58pm PT
So, again, Honlove has 0% control over his actions.

Yeah we're all just a mechanical robots with no control ..... rolls eyes.
WBraun

climber
Mar 18, 2015 - 06:16pm PT
LOL ... I've been trolled .....
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 18, 2015 - 06:17pm PT
Lots of comments along the lines of it's not how long you lived, it's how fully you lived. At 71 I'm not sure of the validity of that. Full and long would seem to be optimal.
Alex is special....Peter Croft is special. We observers, who are not special, can admire their accomplishments and speculate about their longevity to our hearts delight.....with no effect on the outcome.
Do the math....the most important factor in shortened lives for some climbers has been alcohol.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 18, 2015 - 06:59pm PT
Both T Hocking...both. Heavy drinking has obvious consequences but studies also show that people who drink no alcohol don't live as long as people who drink moderately.
Savoring a nice Pinot Noir after a baked cod dinner.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 18, 2015 - 07:12pm PT
Given his age, level of fitness, outlook, socioeconomic status, obamacare, predicted advances in medical care in his lifetime, the care he takes with seemingly everything, I give him till his mid eighties or higher.

Though. In the modern world we all live under various swords of Damocles, and it it could all end at any minute. He does a lot of driving, that's probably the biggest risk.
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
Mar 18, 2015 - 07:20pm PT
Savoring a nice Pinot Noir after a baked cod dinner.


Red wine with fish. Must be a climber, hahahahahah!
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Mar 18, 2015 - 07:23pm PT
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 18, 2015 - 07:28pm PT
Au contraire....the red was after the meal but a light red like pinot noir works with fish. Yeah...I'm a climber, I drink box wine and have even been known to put ice in a white if it's too warm. I eat peanut butter from the jar with my index finger, use bark instead of toilet paper and get a week out of a cotton t shirt.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Mar 18, 2015 - 07:33pm PT
Love It.........Real Life by Donini. lol


And who knows about any of us, seriously. Gotta follow your passion while keeping your head on straight.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Mar 18, 2015 - 08:01pm PT
Don't worry about him doing any more crazy solos, cuz in that Sender documentary he had just lost his virginity to a girl. His goose is cooked (so to speak).


brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2015 - 08:25pm PT
As stupid as my thread title may be to some...I literally have been asked by non-climbers that very question just worded differently.

Because he is a public figure these types of questions are only natural. Sure they are probably best saved for the campfire....but by that logic half the s&#t on this website should be too hahah!

John M

climber
Mar 18, 2015 - 09:05pm PT
Next time perhaps depersonalize it. We had this discussion about soloing and longevity on the taco back when Bachar was alive.

To the risk averse, anything risky seems foolish.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Mar 18, 2015 - 09:34pm PT
I predict he'll send Golden Gate and retire from cutting edge free soloing, and live to be 100.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Mar 18, 2015 - 10:28pm PT
seems like some folks are tough. some are not.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Mar 19, 2015 - 08:37am PT
Well, he has stopped eating Cliff Bars right? That ought to add a few years back on.
Tennessee Jed

Sport climber
South Bay
Mar 19, 2015 - 10:31am PT
Reardon > Honnold
Bad Climber

climber
Mar 19, 2015 - 11:05am PT
Mr. H's solos give me the chills for sure, but I've never seen anyone more solid, so he plays the game well.

I have deep respect for Bonnatti (sp?) when he climbed down off the N. face of the Eiger and stepped away from high end alpinism. The man was at the height of his powers, did the math, and stepped back from the edge. He lived to be the Grand Old Man of alpine climbing. I hope the same future is in store for Alex.

BAd
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2015 - 01:32pm PT
Yeah I hope your wrong Tennessee Jed.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 19, 2015 - 01:43pm PT
I haven't heard of Honold standing around sea cliffs where the waves splash up Jed, so that seems unlikely. Or maybe you just meant Alex is a better climber? I'd tend to agree with you on that.
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Mar 19, 2015 - 02:57pm PT
I have posts out here from several years ago saying I hope he isn't doing it because it really is the only way to make good money in climbing. Doing 5.14 on a rope is a yawner these days, but free solo a 5.13? That's cover of Newsweek.

That said I like how Lynn Hill expressed it, "some of the stuff Alex does makes me uncomfortable."

Anyway, thousands of people die everyday... but I hope Alex doesn't. :)
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 19, 2015 - 03:08pm PT
The guy's living the dream.

Meanwhile we're all hurtling through space at a gazillion miles an hour on a ball of rock. We probably have a meeting scheduled with a giant asteroid, or maybe an intergalactic Attila The Hun. Or maybe our conveyance will just tire of us and unleash huge quakes which leave nothing living bigger than an ant.

And we're worried about Alex Honnold?
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Mar 19, 2015 - 03:24pm PT
This is not meant to reflect on Alex specifically, but one way to think about how risks add up, or actually they multiply, if you take them repeatedly.

Let's say there's a 1 in 100 chance that something bad happens, if you spin the wheel once. Or 99% chance you'll be fine. If the prize is high that might sound worthwhile, right?

What if you spin twice, with same random odds? Then it's .99*.99 = .98 or a 98% chance you'll be fine. Not quite as good.

Do it 20 times, same 99% chance on each try? .99^20 = 82% good, or 18% chance the bad thing happens by now. You can see how this goes, try it yourself for any probability and any number of spins (the multiplication rule for independent events). It's overly simple compared with real life, but can be used as a rough reality check against wishful thinking about, for example, what's the chance we can get the space station built without losing another shuttle (asked after the Columbia disaster in 1981).
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
therealmccoy from Nevada City
Mar 19, 2015 - 03:53pm PT
How long do we give him to what? Start eating meat again? That sounds like a more legitimate question to me. When you refer to his, or anyone's future lifespan/demise I simply laugh. Anyone who thinks they can predict something like this with any certainty is either a fool or from the future, Honnold's specific life choices notwithstanding.
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Mar 19, 2015 - 04:02pm PT
"And we're worried about Alex Honnold?"

'Worried'? Notsomuch. But watching him (and others) raises interesting introspection on our own human experience, as we hurtle in space towards an asteroid with an intergalactic Attila the Hun waiting for us.
James

climber
My twin brother's laundry room
Mar 19, 2015 - 04:33pm PT
I get his van.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Mar 19, 2015 - 05:49pm PT
I commented earlier on this thread....but have just one more take. Every time I see this topic it makes me uncomfortable.

The topic may present an honest question, but I don't think it's an appropriate one.

People all live their own lives and make their own decisions. Unless you have reason not to, I'd not second guess but support them to the max.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Mar 19, 2015 - 06:08pm PT
You all should get out and solo something yourself rather than spending your own limited and precious days wanking on about someone you don't even know.

Punters galore.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Mar 19, 2015 - 07:00pm PT
I agree it is enough

this is a truly distasteful thread that has picked a scab, It should go away!

What Chiloe said about the odds should be sobering to all veterans of xxyrs. of climbing.

Not that anyone should stop climbing.

The losses year in and year out point to a solid truth we climbers get hurt, lost and die while climbing.

I hope that we all live long and prosper,

Fear is a controlled emotion that Alex has under control.
His learning / climbing curve is more reasonable than many.
A trajectory that, if you graph it, stays at a constant rise,steep but not as steep as many.
His rise is not something that I dwell on. I take note but I have not read the NY times article.

If you have solo climbing in your quiver, the mountains open up to you, add a ton of talent,
And of course GOOD LUCK, and sensible approach to the lines he chooses, Alex can continue soloing, pushing the envelope and having fun until he can not

He is so much more than his solo feats of daring, the Fitzroy enchainments 7 walls in 7 days
. . . Edit. . .
Now I see that this has all been covered by a much more in the game climber,
So I'm outa here --good luck to all who stretch and achieve great Times and have fun CLIMBING!


It has been said that the act of soloing occurs in a trance like mind set. Not a trance but a deep focus -Fifteen inches in any direction is all that is in focus. As the climbing gets harder that sphere of focus can narrow.
Solo climbing kills, and that is a sad fact of death and life. Let's all think positive thoughts to counter the bad juju of this death pool thread.

Actually yes I know what WBraun says below is true, the fast and solid can and have been jogging up and down the mountains around the world for decades with only a hand full of actual fails. There are more deaths decending then going up,also.
I still want to spoil this thread to make it go away.
Carry on...
WBraun

climber
Mar 19, 2015 - 07:46pm PT
Solo climbing kills

For how many people have been climbing in Yosemite all these years it's very very rare for a free soloist fatality.

It's the roped climbers, tourist scramblers and others who have the all the accidents and fatalities ....
crankster

Trad climber
Mar 19, 2015 - 07:55pm PT

Mar 19, 2015 - 06:00pm PT
Circle jerk wankfest thread.

Father Sanctimony has spoken, everybody disperse.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Mar 19, 2015 - 08:18pm PT


throw down when the best will buy the farm ?
or stop having fun ?
or what ever the premiss
Of this "wankfest" was then changed to and it continues to morph
Like a van named dorf is gonna really move a half a ton . . .
that's funny stuff
So is a dead pitcher compared to me
Dick Elsworth who was he well a Cubs pitcher who never soloed nutcracker or any thing on the Glacier point Apron, but he threw in the big leagues so that counts cause the mound is raised earth.
The end
No not yet
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Mar 19, 2015 - 08:24pm PT
1 2 3 4 5
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Mar 19, 2015 - 10:05pm PT
re Chiloe's Gambler's Fallacy upthread here.

from Wikipedia:
The gambler's fallacy, also known as the Monte Carlo fallacy or the fallacy of the maturity of chances, is the mistaken belief that, if something happens more frequently than normal during some period, it will happen less frequently in the future, or that, if something happens less frequently than normal during some period, it will happen more frequently in the future (presumably as a means of balancing nature). In situations where what is being observed is truly random (i.e., independent trials of a random process), this belief, though appealing to the human mind, is false. This fallacy can arise in many practical situations although it is most strongly associated with gambling where such mistakes are common among players.

In other words, the belief that there "is something pushing" upcoming results by dint of earlier ones.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Mar 20, 2015 - 02:44am PT
I think that that is the first time that I have seen the word DINT used, correctly
In a sentance
Great thread, due to one four letter word. All the rest is a waste.
If that was all that this thread had to offer I would not bother but many have said things that are hart felt.
Wishing ill to Alex by questioning his rise to promenance oh Auto correct !rize to the top
Rise to the top of the heap of great climbers of this age or and any age for that matter
Is a Jinx & a selfish way for us to showboat too.

Yikes this thread reads like a coming of age thread in a ( ripped from our first page)
Dystopian post apocalyptic world let's all go to YOSEMITE and draw staws at noon to see who gats to scream me you and he the first, and who screams it last ?
This is the task I hope it puts me to sleep and this thread to bed

Nice one, Peter Hand it over I like the cut of your words !
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Mar 20, 2015 - 06:36am PT
re Chiloe's Gambler's Fallacy upthread here

Yes, to be clear I was not suggesting that the probabilities change with repetition, in my example they stay always the same (say, 99% for success on each spin). But if you ask at the outset, what's the chance of 50 successes if I spin this wheel 50 times, that's more like .99^50 = .61, or just 61%. If you're lucky enough to get through the first 49, chances of success on the 50th are still same as they ever were, 99%.

Long-run probability calculations are how casinos and insurance companies know they'll make money.
Poloman

Trad climber
Anna, Il
Mar 20, 2015 - 07:07am PT
The longevity of a free soloer has something to do with ego. Are they overconfident? Are they driven to do the next tougher thing?
Let's face it. This is all about error not chance.
When they make a bad enough mistake, they will die.
If they always climb on perfect rock and never make a misjudgement, they will live.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Mar 20, 2015 - 07:16am PT
I eat peanut butter from the jar with my index finger

Living dangerously.

A large black cloud hung over Nanda Devi," he insisted. ... everyone — for health reasons — to use a clean utensil or cracker to scoop out the peanut butter.

Remember Nanda Devi. Don't be a savage.
anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
Mar 20, 2015 - 07:17am PT
We're all on our way out... act accordingly
mcolombo

Trad climber
Heidelberg, Germany
Mar 20, 2015 - 07:18am PT
I predict he will live his life fully untill he dies.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Mar 20, 2015 - 07:58am PT
Father Sanctimony has spoken, everybody disperse.


Made me spit coffee.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Mar 20, 2015 - 08:13am PT
Wait a minute!!! So if you place one bullet in a six shooter, spin the chamber, place it to your temple and pull the trigger.......and get real lucky

Probability is 5/6, about .83, in your favor.

...it won't affect your lifespan if you then repeat that procedure once a week for years to come?

Different question. If you plan on doing this once a week for ten years, 52*10 = 520 more times, the probability you'll survive all of those is (5/6)^520 = 7*10^(-42), astronomically small (that's 7 with 41 zeroes in front of it).

Stopping a dangerous game won't stack the odds in your favor?

Still another question. But say you did survive the first 519 of those spins. Probability now that you'll survive the 520th? Still 5/6. Luck doesn't remember.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 20, 2015 - 08:22am PT
Hmmm, I personally never experience soloing as a matter of 'ego', but rather simply of an odd 'pre-aware' sense of confidence and outcome. Also, the distinction between calm/confident and desperate/sketch soloing is vast and terrifying. Having experienced the former and witnessed the latter all I can say is I can't imagine or fathom what was going through the minds of the sketch artists I've seen survive one sewing-machine near-disaster after another.

Personally I think Alex on solo is safer than the vast majority of sport crossovers attempting to climb trad; they can be truly horrifying to watch in 'action'. Overall I view soloing as a matter of taking greater risks, but within a highly constrained and boxed risk context. Sure, you're taking a 'greater' risk, but hopefully - by way of skill, experience and control - you've shrunk or constrained the risk context down to where it's more than manageable. By contrast, the risk context associated with a sport crossover to trad is enormous compared to that of Alex's 'average' solo outing.
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2015 - 08:40am PT
The Nuke is coming.....
WBraun

climber
Mar 20, 2015 - 08:43am PT
WHY ^^^^ ???

Stop worrying what others always think.

There's nothing wrong here other than some people have a big stick up their ass ....
WBraun

climber
Mar 20, 2015 - 08:45am PT
Free soloists all know the risks and accept them.

Their friends might or might not.

Their family members might or might not.

Life is NOT a static sterile you want it your way world ever .......
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2015 - 08:58am PT
I agree Werner.

People just seem to be getting really butt hurt on this topic.

Like I said though before, I literally have been asked the same question the thread title poses by non-climbers.

I think people just get upset by discussing it in the public forum. But jeez half the stuff on here by that logic falls into the "just nuke it" category.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Mar 20, 2015 - 09:12am PT
Please don't nuke, this is a good thread spawned by a hardball question.
You're gonna get some spitballs thrown in the game, nothing unexpected.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Mar 20, 2015 - 09:32am PT
It's a fine thread in my opinion. A valid question everyone has thought about anyway. No point to ignoring the elephant in the room regarding Alex'es very public choices. The discussion has been respectful and in some cases thoughtful. Much better than most discussions on ST. I have heard some pretty legendary climbers say harsher things than anyone here has regarding what he is doing.

I've got nothing harsh to say as I strongly believe in a persons right to live and take risks as they choose. However I have not lost anyone super close to me because of high risk taking... perhaps if I had dealt with that experience I might feel differently. Perhaps I am unqualified to have the opinion I have.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 20, 2015 - 09:48am PT
However I have not lost anyone super close to me because of high risk taking...

I have, but not climbing. Motorcycles, cars, mountain bikes, skis, planes, scuba. Climbing is like the safest of the lot...
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2015 - 09:52am PT
It's a fine thread in my opinion. A valid question everyone has thought about anyway. No point to ignoring the elephant in the room regarding Alex'es very public choices. The discussion has been respectful and in some cases thoughtful. Much better than most discussions on ST. I have heard some pretty legendary climbers say harsher things than anyone here has regarding what he is doing.

Well put.
leopop

climber
Mar 20, 2015 - 10:20am PT
I agree. Have you seen half the posts that go up on this forum? This is a valid thread, so relax folks.

More so than questioning Honnold's longevity, I question the impact and the indirect influence he is having on amateur soloists. Don't get me wrong, I think the guy has unquestionable talent, and privately he is probably living a very fulfilling life. But why then does he strike up deals with Sender Films and other film companies that expose his wild antics to the public? These media companies advertise soloing as the next level of extreme climbing. This "next level" view of soloing is what is damaging, in my opinion. Honnold is a smart dude, he knows this will happen. He has seen it happen and continues to interview and allow Sender to throw him in the public light and glorify his extreme soloing.

Of course, I believe in freedom of speech, and Honnold can do whatever the hell he wants. But just like everything, there are consequences to actions. He may not even be the one directly to blame (if there is any blame to be had). Honnold is a freak of nature. That's how he needs to be featured in all these films. Instead, soloing is glorified and Honnold is featured as the one spearheading this "next-level" movement.

I too, know this guy that Brother Bock has spoken about. I've climbed with him and run with him. It breaks my heart to see the level of physical and emotional pain he is going through. Of course, he doesn't blame anyone for his mistakes. He doesn't point the finger at Honnold or the soloing movement. He even wants to climb (with a rope of course) once again, if that is possible. But even he will admit to you that he got caught up in this next-level mentality and didn't think twice about what he was doing and the consequences if anything went wrong.

In the end, it was his choice and his responsibility. His fall ultimately was due to a foothold that broke off the wall. But it saddens me too. I guess I want to point the finger, when ultimately it was this guy's fault. But if there was anyway to eliminate how "badass" soloing looks to climbers, I would be for that too. Unlike other extreme sports, free-soloing doesn't LOOK like it involves extra skill and doesn't require any extra or special gear... so it appears to be far more accessible to an amateur.
jstan

climber
Mar 20, 2015 - 10:31am PT
I agree. Have you seen half the posts that go up on this forum? This is a valid thread, so relax folks.

More so than questioning Honnold's longevity, I question the impact and the indirect influence he is having on amateur soloists. Don't get me wrong, I think the guy has unquestionable talent, and privately he is probably living a very fulfilling life. But why then does he strike up deals with Sender Films and other film companies that expose his wild antics to the public? These media companies advertise soloing as the next level of extreme climbing. This "next level" view of soloing is what is damaging, in my opinion. Honnold is a smart dude, he knows this will happen. He has seen it happen and continues to interview and allow Sender to throw him in the public light and glorify his extreme soloing.

Of course, I believe in freedom of speech, and Honnold can do whatever the hell he wants. But just like everything, there are consequences to actions. He may not even be the one directly to blame (if there is any blame to be had). Honnold is a freak of nature. That's how he needs to be featured in all these films. Instead, soloing is glorified and Honnold is featured as the one spearheading this "next-level" movement.

I too, know this guy that Brother Bock has spoken about. I've climbed with him and run with him. It breaks my heart to see the level of physical and emotional pain he is going through. Of course, he doesn't blame anyone for his mistakes. He doesn't point the finger at Honnold or the soloing movement. He even wants to climb (with a rope of course) once again, if that is possible. But even he will admit to you that he got caught up in this next-level mentality and didn't think twice about what he was doing and the consequences if anything went wrong.

In the end, it was his choice and his responsibility. His fall ultimately was due to a foothold that broke off the wall. But it saddens me too.

leopop

There it is folks. We have an important new voice on ST.
leopop

climber
Mar 20, 2015 - 10:45am PT
Ha ha. Thanks for that intro Jstan. I like to do more reading than writing. ;-)
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Mar 20, 2015 - 10:57am PT
I have, but not climbing.

You're fortunate then, a lot of us could not say that.

There it is folks. We have an important new voice on ST.

Yes, quite the debut leopop!
drewsky

climber
Seattle
Mar 20, 2015 - 11:18am PT
I've never gotten the sense from watching climbing media that there's a 'movement' associated with modern soloists. To wit, I disagree with the assertion that media featuring soloing is intended to glorify the activity; doubtless the commercial element and its association with something like soloing puts some people off, but nowhere is there a proverbial green light being shown for others to go out and try this stuff. Rather I think the media is showcasing the cutting edge of our sport and, yes, making a buck or two or three.

Anyone who climbs and who has an ounce of sense will be familiar with his or her personal limits and will take responsibility if something goes wrong. I think it's erroneous to associate Honnold and others with some sort of 'movement'; there isn't some sort of collective goal to be badass, it's more that there's always going to be people pushing the perceived boundaries just like those before them did.

Isn't that why we all climb in the first place, is to push boundaries and explore the space therein?
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Mar 20, 2015 - 11:29am PT
Ha ha. Thanks for that intro Jstan. I like to do more reading than writing. ;-)


That would be a bit unusual around here at times too!


Nobody has to announce a movement like this. When pitons came out, everyone wanted some. When Friends came out, we all wanted a set, same with sticky rubber. To think that young guys aren't seeing Alex on film and being inspired to do the same?

There have always been soloists, in fact the way the whole game was begun. But there's a whole new population, and a much larger one getting sucked in even as we write. Cause and effect.
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2015 - 11:53am PT
There have always been soloists, in fact the way the whole game was begun. But there's a whole new population, and a much larger one getting sucked in even as we write. Cause and effect.

Exactly.

Honnold just happens to be at the forefront.

Hence, he was the obvious person I thought of when retelling my buddies recent accident.

I also think that Chiloe the master of statistics makes some valid points as well.
Long-run probability calculations are how casinos and insurance companies know they'll make money.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 20, 2015 - 12:29pm PT
Soloing rock has been around for the entirety that humans have walked the planet. The first 5.10 climbs in America were likey done by barefoot Anasazi sans rope. We have all soloed at some point even if it was just third class. You can die on third class terrain just as surely as you can on Moonlight Buttress.

Control is obviously the key in this zero sum game. One false move, one broken hold and it's over. Many feel they have the necessary control on third class, only Alex has felt that way about the NW Face of Half Dome, Moonlight Buttress and Sendero Luminoso.

Sponsorship is fairly new in the climbing game and it is a limited resource for those seeking it. As climbers improve and multiply the qualifications for obtaining sponsorship become more and more rarefied. Putting up a few new routes was once satisfactory, now much more is needed to impress those doling out sponsorship money.

This all started in Europe and is now alive and well here. Speed records, spectacular enchainments, solo alpine routes in winter, solo climbs of routes that a decade or so ago couldn't be done WITH ropes. It's a spiral spinning ever faster with no end in sight.
Climbers have always been competitive, with themselves and others. Now there is also competition for a pot of money that other sports would find laughable.

One hopes that the drive to get into the spotlight doesn't expand the parameters of control a climber feels to the realm of imaginary control.

Alex didn't do his groundbreaking solos to gain the spotlight but gain it he has and not just in the climbing community but in the world at large.

Alex is a once in a generation phenom and it would be presumptuous for anyone to tell him how to go about his craft. We can just watch and admire and send our best wishes.
Others, who want to emulate him should think long and hard about both their abilities and, most importantly, their motives.


jstan

climber
Mar 20, 2015 - 12:32pm PT
Freedom is a whore. Who of us does not dream of running down the trail arms waving, eyes crossed, tongue extended, screaming ?My dream. My dream."? Then a hold pulls off and you are in a bed.

We go into Iraq and now we have ISIS. America has lost the ability to go all squinty=eyed while calculating what our consequences might be, and just how the Dream may turn into a Nightmare.

In America that word has gone missing. Unless you make a habit of thinking for yourself.
leopop

climber
Mar 20, 2015 - 12:47pm PT
Alex is a once in a generation phenom and it would be presumptuous for anyone to tell him how to go about his craft. We can just watch and admire and send our best wishes.
Others, who want to emulate him should think long and hard about both their abilities and, most importantly, their motives.

Nicely put Donini.
scheumee

Mountain climber
Eternia
Mar 20, 2015 - 12:49pm PT
I generally avoid forums unless the topic is about tea however this question and the comments are so intriguing that I had to be a participant in the philosophical adventures of brotherbbock.

Many of you have pointed out that you feel this question is absurd and it’s of bad taste. Really questions like these help us ponder our own adventures and are definitely things we discuss when outdoors amongst friends. I mean who hasn’t asked themselves this very question.
To leopop’s point, an athlete can be an elite climber with precise well calculated movements but if the elements are unforgiving in any way you will die if you don’t have a way to help correct for unforeseen challenges. Andy Lewis and his clan are a perfect example of this, unfortunately losing a few good friends this year by pushing that limit and even though they were well qualified something unforeseen happened. I mean I stand in awe every time I see Mr Honnold successfully complete another crazy climb, but I’m also betting with myself (and in a “how long do you give hondo” betting pool) on when that day will come when he doesn’t make it. Unfortunately before that happens there will be more of his unqualified followers that get hurt or even die.

But you know, he should totally keep doing what makes him happy. I just heard a podcast about a blind guy that click at things to use echo location. I mean really? Who would have let their kid do this, but his mom never told him no and now he rock climbs while blind and has a blast. Other people said don’t do it but he did anyway and now has some form of echo location to mountain bike and do other amazing things. So I sit here undecided.

What is awesome is brotherbbock only asked the question of how long we give Hondo, which is more of a “if a tree falls in the forest” type of question and should be a pretty quick answer, however we all look at the moral responsibility of the question or "Hondo’s" actions instead of just saying brotherbbock you’re awesome.

I mean other than your incorrect use of the word “you’re” in your posts this was quite amazing and obviously inspiring for many.
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2015 - 12:54pm PT
I mean other than your incorrect use of the word “you’re” in your posts this was quite amazing and obviously inspiring for many.

hahahahah
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Mar 20, 2015 - 01:44pm PT
Soloing enables you to hear the voices clearly.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Mar 20, 2015 - 03:11pm PT
you must hear your inner voice clearly


Who here would shut down Grand Prix motorcycle racing or the Isle of Man TT??
The Isle of Man TT, by percent of career fatalities, is many times more dangerous than high level rock soloing. We allow, even approve, even cheer on those very very few who excel at truly dangerous sports. Most highly dangerous sports even give prize money. Isle of Man TT...not so much. Grand Prix auto racing drivers are highly paid and known around the world. Rock climbing soloists.....nil.

So Clif Bar dropped Alex. How many sponsors have dropped Grand Prix drivers/riders for fear of them dying with the sponsor's logo splashed over every piece of their kit?
Those sponsors only drop out when their balance sheet requires it.

How long do I give Hondo? The implied assumption is offensive.
He's doing what he loves to do. What he is driven to do. What he excels at. Likely at a higher level than anyone in the sport right now.
Sure, lots of young (and don't kid ourselves, older) climbers see Alex as an inspiration. It's up to each of us to know our unique inner voice.
Some days the voice says "perhaps not today" some days it's less a voice than a song of the spheres. A song of harmony between cognitive self and the human spirit. For most of us it is seldom compelling. Hopefully for all of us we occasionally join the song of harmony and flow with it. Otherwise we are dead inside.

Only time will tell when Alex's song will wane. How will it change as his body becomes less capable? That might yet be a long time away.
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Mar 20, 2015 - 03:55pm PT
This is an extremely inappropriate question IMO. How presumptuous and condescending can you be? As if this persons choices give you the right to treat their life as a conversation piece.
Gorgeous George

Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
Mar 20, 2015 - 04:07pm PT
I remember a video in which Croft discusses soloing and remarks that if you do it, you should do it for yourself and not to impress others.

My concern is for the impressionable young climbers that want to emulate Honnold to make a name for themselves, we climbers are not immune to climbing for all the wrong reasons.

I just hope this discussion does not offend the "rock climbing Gods."
leopop

climber
Mar 20, 2015 - 04:35pm PT
George, Peter Croft is a great example of a climber who solos without allowing the media to exploit his talents. We all know he does it, but knowledge is not enough to excite your neighborhood's bouldering youth team to want to solo. A movie with Alex Honnold soloing, and some hipster music playing in the background... well, that's a recipe for a different outcome.

DMT, I think it has to do with the audience. Soloing appeals to a younger group, who are more likely to underestimate their abilities and feel a bit more invincible. Also, soloing requires no extra gear and is more accessible. Also, this video is not a great example. The video itself focuses on the dangers of alpinism and the tone is not one of stoke and psyche. Honnold's movies do quite the opposite, at least in my opinion.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 20, 2015 - 04:47pm PT
Good point about alpinisim DMT....I personally have had a number of close calls. The point is there is no standard for any aspect of climbing. Climbing is for anarchists and loners who set their own personal standards without much regard to what others think.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 20, 2015 - 04:57pm PT
So I think he is very smart and has things figured out. I honestly think risks he takes are smaller than risks some gumbies take on munginella.
--Vitally

The nomenclature of this thread's title threw me and this is the first I've looked at it.

Alex is a 4.6 HS grad. He's plenty smart. He's got you all in a box and is playing with you like a chimp with a stick.

He rocks.

Everyone else just talks;

And I used to drink wine from a box,

unlike Phylp, though she's probably done it.

But I stopped drinkin'

Mainly cuz I been thinkin'

Too much about Death--

both Blind Joe and the man from S.I.C.K.L.E.

This is not a pleasant topic,
and one which is basically useless,
so it's a natural for the Taco.

Have at...
nah000

climber
no/w/here
Mar 20, 2015 - 07:16pm PT
i find these types of judgemental discussions by [generally] roped climbers regarding rock climbing free soloists to be a bit like a group of promiscuous unpaid whores judgementally discussing paid prostitutes.

anybody who ropes up and climbs does something just as absurd as alex et al... any discussion of the additive risks must also consider the fact that multiples of us will this year die because we forgot to tie a figure 8 properly or check that our rap lines made it to the ground and etc. but yet we don't have these discussions about sharma...

at the end of the day the only one who has some sense of how close to the line he's pushing it and how much objective risk there is in the game he plays is alex.

the rest of us are just projecting and guessing...

while i have to admit I've waffled due to the publicness of alex's acts, when posed and discussed by climbers I find the original question both naive and repugnant...

alpinists on the other hand... nutters the lot of 'em. :)

drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Mar 20, 2015 - 07:19pm PT
some hipster music playing in the background...

???

lol
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2015 - 08:18pm PT
Nah,

Very nice use of the word repugnant.

I agree with much of what you are saying.

Perhaps the title off the thread is a bit trollish....but there is some valid discussion to be had. Sometimes talking about the elephant in the room is unpleasant.

No ill harm or wishes towards anyone. The whole internet is one big troll.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Mar 20, 2015 - 08:31pm PT
Frankly.......and if you want to know from someone who began this game over fifty years ago, I expect Alex to be around for one hell of a long time too. He and others will probably scatter my ashes.

That is how I feel about AH and his trajectory. He will not solo high end forever. He might not even be climbing for much longer. He might get the bug to take up other critical projects. But right now he is young, at his peak, and expressing it. He is not even thirty for christ's sake and has a non-profit, is well-spoken and writes really well, has a moral imperative. He will know when to do what more than most anybody here.

The big problem is that most don't understand him and where he comes from, and from whence come such conjectures---doing giant routes without equipment---most forgetting the whole time that that is how all of climbing began! Most don't even know where climbing has come from. Its history is merely a doormat for most. That it extends from Seventeenth Century theories is not grasped in the slightest. Climbing for most just "is" and you merely buy equipment for it.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Mar 20, 2015 - 08:35pm PT
Thank. You P Haan,
I was so looking for any one to admit to having climbed without a rope. Many have and still do.
I was thinking of the Gunks and JTree, the two places are completely
different. Rock types, opposites as to lay of the land the ability to find solitude,
Both places have strong histories of high end cordless climbing. My knowledge of the 3rd class climbing in Josh is thin, I have memories and a prized negative to develop and scan of Scott Cosgrove solo on the ski tracks, climbing cordless and cleaning up Gettin' booty , stuck gear.

In the Gunks I was in the mix a bit, the Gunks is made to solo,the word third class was applied, but dead vertical climbing, passing square cut over hangs at every grade made the visiting western climbers bauk. The tricks we learned were the old school rules extended from the leader never falls and three points of contact to speed is safety and down climbing is not an option. The down climbing part took a hit, and we started to practice roped down climbing. Many of us followed 'wire it first' by repetition and reduction of pro. From, say, seven pieces to fewer and eventually a roped but gear less climb. The game was heady one and there are great stories of climbers having gotten to some bomber hold and begging for a rope.
The very best at this game raised and raised the standards to the highest levels, climbing cordless on .12s &13s ! The practice continues today and very stout climbs have very thin gear and death run outs, passing easier ground.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 20, 2015 - 09:45pm PT
People can vicariously pontificate all they want about the risks and advisability of soloing. But then there's how Reardon died which kind of renders moot all discussion of how dangerous soloing is and the odds of dying doing it. If you need to solo then solo and get it out of your system now because tomorrow you could be hit by a meteor or gored by a Narwhal.
John Burns

climber
Pothole, Utah
Mar 20, 2015 - 09:47pm PT
Climbing is for anarchists and loners who set their own personal standards without much regard to what others think.
Flip Flop

climber
salad bowl, california
Mar 20, 2015 - 09:48pm PT
He can have as much time as he needs.
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2015 - 09:55pm PT
Excellent outlook Peter Haan!
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 20, 2015 - 09:59pm PT
Climbing is for anarchists and loners who set their own personal standards without much regard to what others think.

There was a time when that was true, and it may still hold for some minute percentage of the demographic, but today? Hardly.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Mar 21, 2015 - 08:30am PT
I remember a video in which Croft discusses soloing and remarks that if you do it, you should do it for yourself and not to impress others.


If I recall correctly, Peter actually said something like this:

"If you're going to solo, be darn sure you know why you're doing it, otherwise you might find it to be one bad joke."

Although I'm paraphrasing, I don't believe Croft said "don't solo to impress." It was more about being clear on why you are doing it.



Most folks realize what the consequences are when they solo. True, the young feel immortal (I know because I was once young, hard to believe as it is) and with that perspective, they tend to take more risks. But if you don't know the consequences of being over 40 feet up without a net, you're swimming in the shallow end of the pool.


I must say, I like the discussion, but I am with others on the way the topic is broached. For me, the question is better put like this, "Do you think Hondo will die from soloing?" We're not in Vegas, so why make it sound like we're taking odds.

PeterH, great words--let's not forget where Alex is in his life, and what he is doing with it. He is certainly one extreme fellow, and I sure wish I had half of his inspiration.
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Mar 21, 2015 - 09:22am PT
i do not think honhold will ever die free soloing because on some sort of mystical level....i believe he is protected. i feel the same way about croft. both climbers respect their craft enough to be solid on their climbs. croft no longer solos at the extreme level that he used to, and eventually honhold will start backing off his rad solos and tone it down. i thought bachar was protected also, and it was epic to lose a hero of mine like that...but in the end, bachar did not respect his craft enough. he drank, he smoked, and had a beer gut, and was nowhere in the form that he did his hard solos when he fell and died. he should have toned it down and didn't.

i hope i'm right about alex, he's a great kid. ss
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Mar 21, 2015 - 11:32am PT
I am reminded of the midnight steeple climbers of "oxbridge". Was it Oxford or Cambridge?

Students who snuck out their 2d/3d/4th floor windows at night, evading the watchful Warden, and climbed to the peak spires of the stone edifices.
Up stone corners aided by lead drainpipes. Along slate ridged rooftops. Up stone gothic spires under the scornful eye of the gargoyles.

A fall? Not that far. But then it's the landing that gets you. On stone courtyards. As far as I know, none died nor perhaps even fell any great distance.

The images from the article someone published are vivid in my mind.
Anyone have a link?
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 21, 2015 - 11:39am PT
Stolby


[Click to View YouTube Video]
SweetWilliam

Boulder climber
TheSand,Man
Mar 21, 2015 - 01:20pm PT
"George, Peter Croft is a great example of a climber who solos without allowing the media to exploit his talents."

Whut? Pictures of Croft soloing were all over the media. During his prime soloing years, the media was just the two climbing magazines. I was a little kid reading my dad's magazines and I still remeber those pictures. Zinger, Tips, Rostrum.

Where did you get the idea that Croft soloing wasn't in the media? Around the same time, I remember a Bachar shot soloing the Gift in Red Rock for a Boreal ad. I remember it well, because it made bachar look like an old man with a pony tail because his hair look completely gray, and me being clueless seven year old kid didn't know he was blonde and the pic was probably b&w.

Then Mr. Hann said "Frankly.......and if you want to know from someone that has been in the game for over fifty years, I"

Whut? Didn't you sort of stop climbing like 25 years ago? "in the game" , what does that even mean? Lee Sheftel is still "in the game", sending 5.13 in his 50s and 60s. One of my dad's old partners still solos 5.11 in his late 50s. That is "in the game". I'm not getting how you see yourself as "in the game".
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Mar 21, 2015 - 02:37pm PT
I doubt it Alex will slip up on a solo.

I met met him and bouldered with him a little at the local gym one time. He was slipping and sliding and failing on V3 & V4 gym climbs. He falls as much as anyone when he's goofing about. He knows what he is doing.

The media loves freesolo vids because they are scary fun.

Valid thread. Calling him Hondo also helps cover the search engine tracks.
Ken M

Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
Mar 21, 2015 - 02:41pm PT
The topic of free soloing and danger is one that has no clear edges, except beginning and end.

the very nature of it is no backup. Failure=death

It all comes down to the nature of failure, and how much control one has over that.

There is a continuum, wrt our bodies, which go through a process of loss, as time goes on beyond about 30, maybe younger. It isn't all strength, but involves balance, concentration and distractibility, range of motion, recovery from exertion, tolerance of heat, dehydration, tiredness, and many other factors not well understood.

There is the issue of objective danger: the rock coming off in your hand, the rock deciding to fall 100 feet above your head. How do you mitigate that?
divad

Trad climber
wmass
Mar 21, 2015 - 02:51pm PT
yeah, objective danger. there are things beyond his control. all of you who think that he has everything under control are probably lousy poker players..
Psilocyborg

climber
Mar 21, 2015 - 02:59pm PT
The dangers and possible scenarios flying 80mph daily down a freeway full of people texting....I think my life is more dangerous than his
divad

Trad climber
wmass
Mar 21, 2015 - 03:18pm PT
^^^^
not valid. after an unfortunate incident on the highway, you have options and safety nets, such as airbags and seat belts. a soloist has none.
WBraun

climber
Mar 21, 2015 - 03:23pm PT
a soloist has none


The free soloist safety features you can't see with your naked eyes.

You people think too much without your soul and end up being robots .....
divad

Trad climber
wmass
Mar 21, 2015 - 03:30pm PT
"you people"?
since when did I become one of the mainstream taconians?
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Mar 21, 2015 - 03:32pm PT
I'm gunna get totally honest here. You might think I'm talking above my pay grade..or getting weird.. heh

yeah, objective danger. there are things beyond his control. all of you who think that he has everything under control are probably lousy poker players..

This is the basic issue. No backup is the secondary big issue. One loose rock at the wrong moment is all it takes. That is true for all of us yet most of us have a backup or several.

Then there is time exposed..Alex gets to climb a vast amount of days a year.. enviably so, and he has done well creating a way to be able to do so. Yet time exposed to the risk .. well the problem is obvious.

Technique is an issue none have brought up. I have watched him solo a fair bit in real life. Fact is he tends to be a bit casual at times. A bit less disciplined about points of contact than he should be. In soloing there is still redundancy to be sought after. It does sacrifice the feeling of freedom and enjoyment to be disciplined about it.

Attitude. One HAS to have the very high confidence to do these things. However one can be overconfident based on unrealistic assumptions. This is a key to the engine for being prolific which increases the risk due to exposure and ironically it is a big key to being safe regarding the things you do have control over.

Fact is Alex is pushing it. He is not pushing it as much as some I have known. But it's still very far into realm of luck...or

..something Steve Schneider mentioned that I have had strong feelings about..protected.

I know the feeling.. not sure how much I rationally believe it.. but I sure remember operating in it, being pretty sure of it.. while trying not to rely on it.

Something like ..the place you love.. can care about you too.
divad

Trad climber
wmass
Mar 21, 2015 - 04:22pm PT
Werner is still painting by numbers...
jstan

climber
Mar 21, 2015 - 04:35pm PT
Alex has abilities in many areas. So much so I think this climbing stuff is a waste of his time. If we all recognized this I think the present discussion would, rightfully, be seen as an absurdity.
christoph benells

Trad climber
Tahoma, Ca
Mar 21, 2015 - 04:41pm PT
what if you get stung by a wasp?
divad

Trad climber
wmass
Mar 21, 2015 - 04:50pm PT
I'm not about to condemn Alex for what he does. That's his choice and he does it better than anyone. Just trying to address the probability in all of this.

Long live Alex


I have been known to do a bit of soloing too, but I don't do it for a living, :)
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 21, 2015 - 05:16pm PT
There is a huge difference between a soloist who does laps on stuff they have wired that is several full grades below their limits and someone who onsights near their limits. dude is cutting it way too close.
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Mar 21, 2015 - 05:55pm PT
There is a huge difference between a soloist who does laps on stuff they have wired that is several full grades below their limits and someone who onsights near their limits. dude is cutting it way too close.!

Walking the edge between life and death too many times brings you more likely to the something that comes up that will push you to the wrong side of the edge. Sh#t happens. Thinking about Honnold soloing the last hard pitch of Half Dome gives me the heebie jeebies (disclaimer - I just aided it, but I remember all that little tiny dishy stuff and thought holy sh#t when thinking what it would be like to free climb. Solo? Hard to get my head around it).

He is no doubt an extreme outlier; the kind that rarely comes around.

It's his call and he is only responsible for himself.

I had fun soloing for a while when I was climbing all the time. Got into some low end 10s (nothing special and they were all locker cracks, no hard thin stuff). Then I decided to get married and went out soloing all day long the day before the wedding. After that I was responsible for more than myself.

It was fun though!
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2015 - 06:52pm PT
The route my buddy fell on was an 11c im sure he had wired and done many laps on before. Then a foothold breaks.....

So many variables are out of control like minute geological processes of erosion and breakdown. The wasp scenario is another good example of unforeseen complications. I was almost killed myself in Potrero Chico when we were rappelling time wave zero. A party about 5 pitches up broke off a rock...sounded like a fricken meteor as it barely missed us. That's just one example of many hairball things I've experienced. When I said I should be dead already at the start of this thread I wasn't joking. I guess when it's your time to go the reaper comes calling. Must have not been my time then....
Bullwinkle

Boulder climber
Mar 21, 2015 - 06:57pm PT
When a true genius appears, you can know him by this sign: that all the dunces are in a confederacy against him. . . Jonathan Swift
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 21, 2015 - 07:12pm PT
I climb hard ice. I have no room to tell anyone what is safe or not. that being said the bigger the holds the better the chance you can hang on if something bad happens. I remember something Donini said in a simeler thread . He mentioned that he no longer solos face climbs, Only solos cracks. I remind myself of that occasionally in the rock season. haveing a solid hand jamb gives you a chance if a foothold breaks. Soloing 11c 99.99% of climbers will fall if a hold breaks.....
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Mar 21, 2015 - 07:20pm PT
Bullwinkle certainly knows
crankster

Trad climber
Mar 21, 2015 - 07:20pm PT
I'm just amazed there's a good discussion going on without the blessing of Jim Brennan.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Mar 21, 2015 - 09:02pm PT
You have outdone yourself Locker!

I want that house!
SweetWilliam

Boulder climber
TheSand,Man
Mar 21, 2015 - 09:48pm PT
Bortherbbock, your friend was soloing in NewJack? No offense but that seems pretty stupid cause stuff breaks there all the time. Every time I go there something crumbles off even on popular routes. All those little crunchy pointy edges it's like weird stacked up nachos where the rock angle changes. The clean faces are really hard and solid but as soon as you get an edge where the rock kicks back they are usually slanting off both sides and not filled up of glue like the quarry or other louie places.

Everybody solos even if only getting to the first or second bolt on a sport climb since you'd hit the ground clipping the second on halfof em anyway. Hope your friend gets better quick and can walk and have a regular life soon.
JOEY.F

Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
Mar 21, 2015 - 09:52pm PT
. "One loose rock at the wrong moment is all it takes"
Brad Parker was soloing Mathes Crest last fall, in top shape, easy peasy for him, and that's all it took.
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2015 - 10:01pm PT
@sweetwilliam,
Yeah new jack is a horrible place to free solo. One giant choss pile out there.


similarly, "Hondo" solos mainly to glorify the USA, to glorify truth, justice, and the American Way....therefore, he can never ever die!!

^^^ Fukn A!!
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Mar 21, 2015 - 10:32pm PT
Nuth'in mor queer than solo'in gett'in all this publicity>
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Mar 21, 2015 - 11:45pm PT
ur right^

It is an evolutional law/moral for EVERYONE to be able to poke fun of each individuals experience.

i can't help but to hate that.
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Mar 21, 2015 - 11:59pm PT
so was everything robin Mclaurin will i am 's said a lie?
Psilocyborg

climber
Mar 22, 2015 - 01:08am PT
^ I am so confused
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Mar 22, 2015 - 07:05am PT
every day
the future crumbles
by one
no song survives
only the sunrise
destroys the night
with loving aggression;

ride the stone wave,
whose matrix includes you.

tiptoe unto tomorrow
and you're already through.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Mar 22, 2015 - 08:42am PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
crankster

Trad climber
Mar 22, 2015 - 09:13am PT
Just needling you a bit, Jim. Sometimes you deserve it.

And yes, while I've been climbing probably longer than you I don't solo anything harder than 5.4. A rope suits me, never saw it as a burden.

And locker...one funny dude.
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2015 - 09:15am PT
^^^Alex on Sendero blows my mind. That limestone down there is something else too. Cranking/trusting those sharp little edges so far off the deck....gnarly.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Mar 22, 2015 - 10:03am PT
what if you get stung by a wasp?


No sh#t. I have had silverfish explode into my nose, eyes, ears, mouth all at once one time. It was freeking biblical.

I've also had two holds break on me, one second apart.

It's nice to think of Alex being a superman spiritual being, but he's subject to the same natural laws as the rest of us.

Nobody is against him Bullwinkle, don't be silly. But of course you count yourself in the non-dunce category.
Poloman

Trad climber
Anna, Il
Mar 22, 2015 - 12:14pm PT
The biggest problem I find with his activities is the impression it leaves on non-climbers and beginners.
I have spoken to people that have seen the video of his exploits (which are spectacular) and believe that it is the norm.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Mar 22, 2015 - 01:04pm PT
The biggest problem I find with his activities is the impression it leaves on non-climbers and beginners.
I have spoken to people that have seen the video of his exploits (which are spectacular) and believe that it is the norm.
poloman,
an education beyond youtube
is requisite for those
aspiring youths
whom entertain
alex's notions.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Mar 22, 2015 - 02:25pm PT
5.11d, I think? Seems that's what I read.


Oops, I just read on MP, 15 pitches sustained quality 5.12d.
Poloman

Trad climber
Anna, Il
Mar 22, 2015 - 05:24pm PT
Norwegian
Many think that free soloing is how rock climbing is usually done.
Pursuing that is a dangerous formula.
People killing themselves is very bad for the sport.
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Mar 22, 2015 - 08:32pm PT

You know you're about as funny as a sh#t casserole.

DMT ur jus to tasty! i'm realizing my written words are pretty queer too, to you

from WiKi;
In the English dialect of the southern United States, the two senses of the adjective queer (homosexual and weird, odd, different, or unwell) are sometimes distinguished by pronunciation. Queer (homosexual) is pronounced (kwîr), queer
(weird, odd, different, or unwell)
is pronounced (kwär). This is generally considered old-fashioned and is only used when the word is emphasized, as in the phrase "that's awful queer" (pronounced THăts ôr'fəl kwär). The distinction is dying out as that latter sense of the word dies out.

i don't know what southern States has to do with it, cause i'm from Sacramento. But
i've held tight to my old skcool definition of the word queer
(weird, odd, different, or unwell)
, and i've never said "queer" in a derogatory manner towards a Homosexual! i kinda think the word "queer" was raped by the male homosexuals, like the lesbians are now trying to steal the word "rainbow". It hurts us when we try to give two meanings to one word, as an environment/socieity.. every meaning deserves a word.

Re:
Nuth'in mor queer than solo'in gett'in all this publicity>

guess i jus should'a said that i think it's really weird to talk so much about such a personal experience such as free-soloing rocks?
MisterE

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Mar 22, 2015 - 08:48pm PT
As long as it takes for him to fulfill his place in the world, then move on.

Just like all of us.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Mar 22, 2015 - 08:53pm PT
Sendero is 12d.
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Mar 22, 2015 - 08:57pm PT
^^^Nope. Bout the same as gett'in hit by a train
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2015 - 09:16pm PT
A train traveling at 9.8 m/s sq.
jonnyrig

climber
Mar 24, 2015 - 08:49am PT
Nothing to do particularly with Honnold, but if you die solo, your life insurance might not pay. That is, if you have any. In applying, it was interesting to note that solo climbing activities are a disqualifying factor. Google up some avocation forms for climbing/mountaineering. At least one insurer published their risk factors and rate increases. Something to consider if you have a family and insist on risky behavior.
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2015 - 09:39pm PT
I don't think even roped rock climbing is covered for most.
John Burns

climber
Pothole, Utah
Mar 25, 2015 - 09:08pm PT
Bullshit aside, soloing is what people who like to solo, do

so how'd they get there? was marijuana the gateway?



EDIT: Dingus - that funnier'n a sh#t-sammy deal was pretty decent. Ah, to poss-ass stoicism.
John Burns

climber
Pothole, Utah
Mar 25, 2015 - 09:28pm PT
^is not solo-ing a learned, acquired behavior for most rational humans?
John Burns

climber
Pothole, Utah
Mar 25, 2015 - 09:41pm PT
now I never liked tomatoes as a kid. and yet, I ate enough of 'em, and I kinda love 'em now. took some self-teaching, for me.



and yes, your question Cpt. Brennan, is worthwhile. Why talk about what is essentially masturbation?

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 25, 2015 - 09:49pm PT
Climbing is not a team sport and most climbers eschewed team sports. Climbing is intensley personal and personal expression is manifest in many ways. I agree with Jim, censure begins with the inability to understand.
As Wittgenstein said...."of that of which we cannot speak, we must pass over in silence."
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Mar 25, 2015 - 10:06pm PT
My son and I were jumping rocks on a talus the other day, and he says something to the effect that if we don't quit messing around, we are gonna fall/ get hurt pretty soon (statistical probabilities).
He's 9 years old.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Mar 25, 2015 - 10:06pm PT
Climbing is not a team sport

Soloing is not a team sport. Climbing certainly can be.
covelocos

Trad climber
Mar 25, 2015 - 10:39pm PT
Is group soloing a team sport? sometimes seems like it!
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 26, 2015 - 12:14am PT
My father started flying in Stearman N2S biplanes and retired a 747 captain. While he never said that much about it, on rare occasions he'd talk about the difference between 'natural' pilots and 'book' pilots and how he always kept an eye on book pilots whenever they had the yoke. He felt they were "ok", so long as nothing went wrong, but generally had no real 'feel' for flying. Said their weakness was they operated strictly according to company flight rules - i.e. 'flew-by-the-book' - even in emergencies, rather than thinking for themselves and responding to the situation at hand.

While I heard all that from him, not being on the pilot-track like my brothers due to vision issues I really didn't get it. But after a few years of climbing I did and then saw no shortage of parallels in our world. And I'd even take it a step further to the distinction between folks who think it's fun or like to climb and those who have to climb. You can spot it in children sometimes and even adults whether they've ever climbed or not. Every now and then I'm compelled to ask someone if they're a climber or ever climbed as I can just see it in the way they hold themselves and move.

As for soloing, I've done enough of it to taste and be captivated by that groove; certainly don't have a question whether Alex needs to climb or not; and basically think he's safer without a rope than 85% of today's climbing demographic with one (and probably far safer).

Bottom line is: if you don't get it, you probably never will.
nah000

climber
no/w/here
Mar 26, 2015 - 05:38am PT
^^^^

outstanding post healyje.
WBraun

climber
Mar 26, 2015 - 09:39am PT
healyje -- "basically think he's safer without a rope than 85% of today's climbing demographic with one"

LOL Joe, yer killin me :-)

It's true about "book" dudes and "natural" dudes.

The book dudes generally scare the hell out me .....
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