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Messages 1 - 14 of total 14 in this topic |
If
Trad climber
UK
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 6, 2015 - 11:27am PT
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Well I’ve finally plucked up the courage to start saving and return to Yosemite for the first time in 30 years and settle down on a portaledge on El Cap again. The plan is to placate my up and coming midlife crisis and creep up South Seas to PO Wall in two years’ time during my 50th year, solo and in winter. Solo because that’s what I did last time and I like the logistics of roped soloing and in winter because I think it’ll be less crowded and I like the cold. In 2 years because I’m a bit skint at the mo.
I’m also hoping to do it in the name of a UK charity called Rethink Mental Illness, maybe raising some money for them in the process. The reason for the charity is that you don’t have to be mad to do this but it helps and I’ve also been effected by a mental illness that goes by the name of PTSD, brought about by spending far too many years in war zones and other nasty places as a photojournalist.
I’ve considered lots of routes, including doing The Shield again but I think I‘d be disappointed at the scaring on the triple cracks. Thought about Sunkist but didn’t fancy hauling up to Mammoth Terraces all alone. I wanted a real aid challenge so even Sea of Dreams crossed my mind, but I think I’d be a fool to attempt it as a first return trip to El Cap. So I’ve gone for South Seas to PO wall for now, doing it as clean as possible. That is unless I’m convinced otherwise by you wise souls here on SuperT (e.g. there’s silly amounts of ice fall, etc, etc).
Anyway, I don’t post on here often but I read lots and found it to be a great font of info, so I’ll be asking a few questions as time and training goes by, if that’s OK?
The first question has to be............. am I gonna die?
Bated breath
Steve
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Steve that sounds totally foolish, irresponsible and painful. Not to mention expensive, dangerous and a high risk of failure.
Sounds awesome. That's the stuff dreams are made of. Keep training like the trip is in a month, keep daydreaming and reading Mark Hudon's Trip reports and you'll be at the base, staring up slack-jawed in no time. Wishing you endurance and stoke until that day. Keep us in the loop. We love pre-spray! It ads flavor to the journey.
Cheers!
Scott
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Steve- You're gonna die!!
;)
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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The plan is to placate my up and coming midlife crisis
Jeeeez Steve....can't ya just go buy a little red sportscar?
:-)
Wishing you the Best Adventure for the start of your second half of life!
Laura
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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I think it sounds totally awesome, except for the winter part.
I've done the PO, which was terrific, and kind of regret not doing the South Seas start. Despite the need to slay the midlife crisis demon, I think you'll have a much more enjoyable trip if you have some sunshine and good weather. Nothing better than pulling onto the Island in the Sky and kicking back while the sun sets. Could be chilly, cold and icy per your plans.
I totally get where you're coming from. I have similar plans of soloing the Captain too. I'm 51 and the PO was my last wall 20 years ago. Sunshine and warm weather are big parts of my plan though when that comback happens. I'm down for the hard work, not the suffering.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Respect,,
I've played with the thought of soloing a big wall, I'm full of admiration of those who do, and wonder how I would fare...... Thankfully I am unlikely to ever find out, so can bask in my illusion that I would be studly!
Good luck, keep us all up to date, and as you get closer post up your name and location - it will be much harder to back out then!
Regards,
Steve
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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That is a big chunk to chew on while contemplating the years to come, some Bucket list you must have !! get the beta plan for late fall. the first snows highlight the valley . .
good luck stoked to hear of 'not so old to go' are going for it!.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Maybe try a winter solo of the Leaning Tower before committing to the Captain.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver, Colorado
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I'm also 50, also haven't been to the valley in 20 years, and also dream of getting away someday to do another el Cap route. Physically I'm not the boy I was, but mentally, a lot tougher. First though, I have to get back to 5.10 trad leading, or its going to be an epic.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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creep up South Seas to PO Wall in two years’
I bet you can go faster than that!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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if you're going to solo,
bring two hookers.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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I say go for it. You're 50 -- you're at the age where boldness is rewarded whether you succeed or not.
Best of luck, and I like your pluck.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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If the conditions are "right" you have a chance . . . this winter has been extremely forgiving. In a real Pacific winter storm cycle I doubt many average climbers would have any chance. Good luck getting off the top in a heavy snow year.
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If
Trad climber
UK
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2015 - 11:06am PT
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Thanks for the encouragement and advice so far! Big Mike thank you I'm honoured!
Good point about doing Leaning Tower first, I soloed it all those years ago as a test piece for El Cap then but I was a well established dirtbag in them days spending months in the Vally, I'm all grown up now and need to take time off work also I live in England so planning on getting to the Alps for some wall training :)
That's true about getting off the top with snow, that'll be the main reason for not wintering the route though I'm still loving the idea :/
Thanks for the opportunity to pre spew it makes it harder for me to chicken out!!
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