Discussion Topic |
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 1, 2015 - 07:32am PT
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Just back from 2.5 great months in Patagonia. I want to clarify dates for getting together in IC this spring.
I'll snag an area for group camping from Thursday 4/30 thru Tuesday 5/4.
I'll supply:
camping site
firewood
intimate knowledge of area
crack climbing clinics
Come for as long as you can....the only requirement is to hone some of your best campfires tales.
I'll also be attending Nature's earlier SushiFest.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Woo hoo! Good times to come!
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Niiiiice!
Will be good to see you Jim!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Sweet! Getting ready...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, donini... welcome back!!
may the get together be wonderful!
:)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2015 - 10:19am PT
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Moose.... plenty of things to do in between.
desert towers
canyoneering
world class hiking
anasazi ruins
sport climbing in Ouray
Black Canyon
and
only if super bored....
....mountain biking
I'll help keep you entertained.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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You retired guys have it so good. I really want this one. I give myself a 25% chance of attending this one.
MMMMMmmmm IC sandstone.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, or In What Time Zone Am I?
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I'd like to attend both events as well, but not sure what to do in between. It would make no sense to drive back home. Maybe I will visit Red Rock then. Any ideas?
Stay in touch Moose. If we aren't in the middle of the Pacific we'll be in Moab. . What Donnini said. TONS of stuff to do. Like mountain biking? We have some killer guest MTB bikes. Ride at your own risk of course!!!!!
Susan
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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I'm at 80 percent that I'll be there. Just have to arrange some other things to be sure.
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jomey
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Jim,
any chance you are going to be in the creek early April?
Would love to get a chance to meet and climb with the legend.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2015 - 10:13am PT
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Bump to remind people. Good window of weather coming.....heading to IC for five days on saturday.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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I'm in. I'd like to include hacky sack in the list of activities one could participate in.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2015 - 05:11pm PT
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Sweet! Hacky sack is now officially on the activities list. Bocce ball is another fun thing we have to fit in....no rest for the wicked.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jack's been playing a lot of Hacky lately. I would love to make it.
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Karla
climber
Colorado
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I'm in Lil' Jimmy and bringing my flaming poi balls;)
Seeya before then!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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I hadn't really thought about it before,
but maybe cracks are perfect warm-ups for old folks,
to avoid pulling their groins when playing hackey sack?
Guess you also have to do some drop-knee sport climbing to train for the outside hackey move.
I'll be there in spirit... but I'm pressing the vacay days to the limit this year... Got 5 weeks in summer, plus thanksgiving week, plus spring break week, plus we'll probably squeeze in a couple of weeks in Italy at some point.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Mar 17, 2015 - 12:53pm PT
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Looks like Christina and I will be attending - I need to learn how to climb cracks for sure, so it's a win-win. Looking forward to it!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 17, 2015 - 01:52pm PT
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Anyone wants to drive from the Bay Area or something? I'd carpool!
Or what is the closest airport to there? Would love to attend.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2015 - 05:35pm PT
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Just back from the Creek! I'll be compiling a list of attendees soon.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Mar 17, 2015 - 07:59pm PT
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I'm in for sure.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Mar 18, 2015 - 08:30am PT
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You can fly Allegent Air from LAX to Provo for $52 then rent a car and drive down. Best deal I can find.
They fly cheap into Grand Junction but not until late in the year.
https://www.allegiantair.com
Best dirtbag airline.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2015 - 11:53am PT
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I'm going to the Creek tomorrow for four days....weather has been excellent so far.
Below is a list of people who have shown various amounts of interest. I'll need to secure camping so I'll need a pretty good idea of how many people there will be. Let me know what your current status is.
For those who haven't been there, a few tidbits:
35 plus buttresses with short (10 to 30 min.) approaches and each one stacked with routes.
Super, free camping....the polar opposite of the Valley.
Spectacular scenery with an abundance of Anasazi ruins and rock art.
Arguably the very best place on the planet to improve your crack climbing.
Jim y Angela
Phylp
Moosedrool
Eeyonkee
Mike from Phoenix
Vegasclimber and Christina
Woody the Beaver
Relax, Guy
Vitaliy
Skcreidc
Spider Savage 25%
I'll be arriving on Thursday 4/30 and departing Tuesday 5/5.
Come for any portion of that time that works for you.
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Urizen
Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
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Mar 20, 2015 - 12:03pm PT
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Put me on the list. Probably arriving sometime on Friday, unless this semester gets even more insane by then than it already is--and they usually do.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Mar 20, 2015 - 12:10pm PT
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I may be able to drop in on y'all. It'll be nice to put names to the faces.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Mar 20, 2015 - 01:49pm PT
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I won't yet have medical clearance for crack climbing. What else is there to do?
Put my interest level at 75%
Higher if I can drag my wife away from her commitments here. Dog friendly, right?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2015 - 02:16pm PT
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High Traverse....dog friendly BLM land. Lot's of Anasazi ruins and rock art to explore. Only a few miles to the south entrance of Canyonlands National Park and close to the Dark Angel Wilderness. Just a two hour drive to Mesa Verde for a day outing.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Mar 20, 2015 - 02:50pm PT
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Jim,
I would certainly join the group, but were leaving for the UK and then Africa on May 1st. HAVE FUN!!
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Urizen
Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
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Mar 20, 2015 - 03:15pm PT
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I think that Donini probably means Dark Canyon. But if there isn't a Dark Angel Wilderness, there certainly should be. Great name.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2015 - 04:07pm PT
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Right you are Urizen. Dark angel was in reference to a lady I met in Bezerkeley in the early 70's......better end there.
Have a great trip Steve and Joan!
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Mar 20, 2015 - 04:12pm PT
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You're definitely going to get a Dark Angel interrogation around the campfire!
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Mar 20, 2015 - 04:12pm PT
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Put me and Ferretlegger (Michael Jefferson) down.
We recently bought a house in Moab so folks that need a shower, shelter or place to stash non essential gear post or pre event we may be able to help.
Susan
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Mar 20, 2015 - 04:45pm PT
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Jim, you do not have to count me for the camping. I will stay at a hotel in Monticello.
Once you decide on the camping area, please post directions to find it and how long to get into camp from the nearest road. Also my husband would like to use the forrester that weekend, if I can manage without it. Will a regular passenger car make it inyo the camp OK? Or will we need high clearance?
Urizen it will be good to see you again!
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Mar 20, 2015 - 04:52pm PT
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Still going to be there until Sunday, planning on camping. We are looking forward to it! Arriving Thursday afternoonish.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 20, 2015 - 09:18pm PT
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I'm in!
I may have to juggle work.
I think I saw the Donini mobile down there today...
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ECF
Big Wall climber
Ouray, CO.
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Mar 21, 2015 - 03:51am PT
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I will be there.
Can't wait to find out what I've been doing wrong with this crack climbing thing...
"Hey, there's no handholds in here!"
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2015 - 05:19am PT
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Wow! Looks like a great group is shaping up. I'll be available for crack clinics for those new to the Creek. I'm sure that Jaybro can be talked into demonstrating proper wide crack techniques and i'm confident that there will be some good, adult beverage fueled, tales told around a crackling fire.
I'm off this morning to IC...back Tuesday evening.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Mar 21, 2015 - 07:20am PT
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Urizen=great food all right. Looking forward to getting out there!
My little group will include Relax, Guy and Mrs. skcreidc. We shoud get there late Thursday afternoon and leave Monday for a 3 solid days of fun. We plan on camping. Between driving and climbing that is too much time for Mark Ott, so he is planning to fly out and rent a vehicle like Phylp. Too much time for Javier so he is unable to make it.
So Jim, you can add Mrs. skcreidc and Mark Ott to the attendee list.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2015 - 08:46am PT
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The weather in the Creek has been awesome! Going out for four days tomorrow.
Current list for ST get together:
Moosedrool
Vitaliy
Screidc
ECF
Jaybro
Mark Ott
Phylp
Relax, Guy
Eeyonkee
Karla
Mike from Phoenix
Vegas Climber and Christina
Urizen
SC Seagoat and Ferretlegger
maybe
High Traverse
Spider Savage
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Mar 27, 2015 - 09:18am PT
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Everybody bring ALL of your cams!
I am cleaning and lubricating all of mine, even the old rigid stem friends to bring on this trip.
Looking forward to hands, thin hands (my fave) and fingers. Not looking forward to any big hands, fist or off-width (except watching Jay demo it).
I just got the guidebook and am looking at all the thousands of splitters. One thing I'm noticing from the pictures is that people seem to rack everything on their gear loops and not on a sling. Mostly racking each cam on a single biner and clipping directly to that with no runner.
Is that your preferred technique Jim? I once to an unfortunate ground fall with a couple of cams on the second harness loop and got a hideous soft tissue injury on my butt. I felt like it could have reached to my spinal cord and felt lucky the muscle was the only thing hit. So I'm a bit leary of cams on gear loops...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2015 - 09:35am PT
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Phylp, I rack totally on my gear loops....I have belayers neck and a gear sling is uncomfortable.
I rarely extend cam placements....the cracks are so straight that rope drag is rarely a problem. There are exceptions of course but you can suss that out by looking at the climb.
Normally a posse of several climbers will go to a crag and brefore you know it several ropes will be up. You have the choice of leading or taking a ride.
Bring a 70 meter rope if you have one...it will go to the chains and down on most of the climbs.
I actually have an 80 meter rope i only use for the Creek.
Approaches are usually 10 to 25 minutes to a crag and you usually do one crag in a day. I approach in my crocs.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Mar 27, 2015 - 12:44pm PT
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Ditto on the racking Phylp. Separate biner for every single cam. Rack each climb on your loops. If you can't figure the climb out rack equally on each side, small to large. Then as you climb you can shift them around some if need be, depending on what moves and pro required you see coming up.
Have fun!
Arne
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Mar 27, 2015 - 02:19pm PT
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Gosh I often wish I was retired...this would be one of those times. Hope you all have fun out there, it is indeed a special place.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 27, 2015 - 02:35pm PT
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When I was there in October I watched a 50' high boulder roll down into the canyon floor while some people were climbing 100' away.
Whipped out the videocam in time to see the dust cloud fill the canyon.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2015 - 03:15pm PT
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I'll post the campsite and directions a week before the event.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 27, 2015 - 04:31pm PT
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In October the recent road work slimed the ford at the campsite you guys were at a year ago, and a van got stuck on the far climb despite crossing the ford at high speed.
Probably worth checking the road condition before telling 2WDs to go.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2015 - 04:34pm PT
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I've been going out for three weeks now....everything dry as a bone.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Mar 27, 2015 - 05:12pm PT
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Jim....it SC SeaGoat not Scapegoat spell checker undoubtedly!!!!
Susan aka SC Seagoat
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2015 - 05:36pm PT
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Whoa...what a freudian slip! You can imagine how many times my name is misspelled.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 27, 2015 - 06:02pm PT
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Getting excited about this event! Hanging out with relax guy is always a bliss. Even with his lacking sense of humor.
I request a ringlock class! Don't know how to deal with baggy fingers and ring locks. Too weak to layback ;)
Oh and got to do some fingercracks and offwidth! And towers. Can't wait to hang out with you all!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2015 - 06:36pm PT
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Ringlocks....ugh, the only part of climbing that i find truly painful. Forget it Vitaliy, find a girlfriend with green camalot hands.....meaning tight hands instead of ringlocks.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2015 - 08:03pm PT
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Back in Ouray for a shower. The weather has been great and I've been exploring some of the more obscure cliffs.....there is excellent climbing under the radar.
I have a couple of sweet potential camping areas scoped out....Creek Pasture is a zoo that will be avoided. I'll let everyone know the camping area a week out.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jim,
I'll be coming with climbing friend and dog.
Expect to arrive Fri afternoon.
I won't be able to climb. Hope my friend will find partners.
Will bring enough firewood for one night's fire.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2015 - 08:38pm PT
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Your friend will be well taken care of Fred. It's BLM, dogs are okay...just make sure he doesn't steal my dinner.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Who would steal your dinner? Neither my friend nor dog are ill behaved.
My friend might take a nip of your Scotch while you're not looking!
Looking forward to it at last.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Ringlocks....ugh, the only part of climbing that i find truly painful.
I was really hoping for another answer on Vitaly's question. So I just have to bear down harder and suck it up? THAT was NOT in the brochure. Still looking for a "better" way on that one...lol!
From fingers to the wide, looking forward to being there!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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You gonna be at sushi fest as well, Jim?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2015 - 03:25pm PT
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I'll be at the Sushi Fest for one night....can't wait!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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I will be in the Moab area for the last two weeks of april...would love meet a bunch of you and also get on some wide. Been wanting to do the Big Baby ???
Jeff
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Jim, can you help me out with some information?
After reading though the David Bloom climbing guide, I am wavering about doing this trip, because it seems like most of the moderate routes are fist and off-width. Which I really do not enjoy all that much. For someone with small hands like me, typical male fist cracks routes are shaky offwidth. I'm too old and my climbing years are too short now to drive that far and spend that much time and money to do a type of climbing I don't love.
Are there thin hand, hand and finger cracks in the mid-5.10ish range (or under) in the areas we are planning to go to? Areas that would be the equivalent of Cookie or Reed's areas?
This sure sounds like a fun gathering and there are people going I'd love to hang with, but it would help to have some more info...
Thanks, Phyl
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2015 - 06:33pm PT
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Phylp....not to worry there are PLENTY of moderate red camalot cracks rated 5.10 that would be 5.9 in Yosemite. Every crag that we will go to has several, if not more, climbs in that category.
Women love the Creek for the ego boost involved. So many of the ratings are based on manhands. Women can get a bigger number without too much effort.
Your presence is damn near required to keep the campfire ambience from being too testosterone fueled. Just kidding....you've seen the list.....good suspects all!
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Thanks Jim. I'll see you and Angela there.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Phylp-So not true at all. You would kind of have to hunt for off widths whilst ignoring TONS of hands, perfect hands, large hands, tight hands, you name it.
There are more sandstone cracks available in every size than anyplace you'll probably ever visit, promise. It's the place to get good at cracks in the sizes you choose to rack up for. Don't miss it.
Jim knows where all the classics are and you'll be plenty tuckered out in the evening anyway.
Arne
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Arne, see you Saturday night! phyl
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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As long as I can find some 5.fun stuff for the wifey and myself, it will be all good. Not sure if there is any 5.6-7 stuff there but I'm sure we will figure something out :) mainly going for the technique tips and especially the campfire tales!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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^^^^^ Dooooood, YOU need a haircut.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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I won't even get to climb for SushiFest. oh well... hopefully we can huck a few birds or wings from camp.
psyched for the time off though!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2015 - 03:11pm PT
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Yep....South Six Shooter 5.7 is a great day out. Beautiful hike thru the desert followed by a fun climb to a tower summit with a worldclass view.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Are there any cool spires we can climb so that one team is on one and another team is on the other? I would love to take some photos of some other climbers climbing something cool and the other way around! WOuld be a fun group outing.
Would allow to pick up groceries in town and have a feast back at camp that evening. :)
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Cool, thanks for the info - will check it out.
And I will still be vaping, but if you didn't know, I had 2 busted tendons when y'all were in Vegas Mr. NotBurch. Just starting to climb again.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Vit, So Six Shooter has two summits. Probably too easy for you, though.....
Phyl, no worries, plenty of stuff in the size and rating you're
looking for, especially if you do some climbing in metro Moab as well as the creek, as an example, ancient art is 5.8 A0, ask Daphne how fun she thought it was!
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Gilroy
Social climber
Bolderado
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South Sixshooter was what occurred to me also, Jaybro, since it has the two summits. There regular route is (classic intimidating desert) 5.6 but there are 10's and 9's on on it as well providing good mutual photo ops.
But you knew that.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Rectory and Castleton face each other right?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Gosh moose, can you stop sending me all that porn?! What a perv... ;)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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They do. But you would need to do the no face of castleton and have a long lens, if you want to be able to ID a team on say, fine jade
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2015 - 07:30am PT
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Vitaliy, one of the great things about the Creek is it's conviviality.....from climbing to campfire. We seem to have the appropriate group size to posse up for two different venues in a given day and all share a single campfire in the evening.
With that in mind, I want a private group campsite. There are three potential ones that fit our needs. I will choose one by 4/24 and put the directions on this thread.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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are these private groups camps ones i'm aware of and would the work for SushiFest? Right now I'm aiming at the big one at cottonwoods.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2015 - 07:38am PT
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I'll call you.
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WBraun
climber
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Indian creek no good.
No Indians there only pale faced white man. (see pale faced white men below)
White man chased Indians away.
The rocks became angry and split into cracks so pale faced white man will suffer.
Now pale face white man makes fire on sacred ground, talks with forked tongue and kills and eats our sacred mother without honor ......
:-)(
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Guess not
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Chazbro
Social climber
Gillette, Wyoming
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Apr 11, 2015 - 08:06pm PT
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Yahoo!
We'll be there Wednesday, Jaybro!
2 nights of Sushi here I come!
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Apr 12, 2015 - 07:08am PT
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Stoke is high. Hit Gearheads yesterday for a new camp chair and more water jugs. We plan on getting down there early. Will look for the campsite at Cottonwood if we get there before anyone.
Yippee...fun around the corner!
Susan and Michael
Edit. Ooops posted in wrong thread for the Sushi Fest. But it's all good we'll be there for both!
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Apr 12, 2015 - 07:15am PT
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^^^^^yay!
we've already started making food. this is shaping up to be a big event. possible more people than the first sushifest. yikes!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Apr 12, 2015 - 10:53am PT
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I just saw a Utah plate that said GTFSH.
I don't think that I have ever tasted goatfish. Have you?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2015 - 07:17pm PT
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Just back fom the Creek and I have secured a really sweet camping area for the ST get together.
It is large, private, scenic and centrally located.....one of my favorite sites at the Creek.
I will post more info., including directions next week.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2015 - 08:29pm PT
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I'm going back out on Friday....PM me.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Apr 14, 2015 - 09:05pm PT
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Can we get into the campsite with a regular passenger car? or do we need high clearance?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2015 - 09:29pm PT
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No problem whatsoever with a low clearance two wheel drive passenger car. I'm going back on Friday with a German climber I met ten years ago in Patagonia and his wife and their ten month old daughter.
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ecflau
Gym climber
CA
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Apr 15, 2015 - 09:24am PT
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Hi, do you have space for 2 more people (or 3) ?
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Tamara Robbins
climber
not a climber, just related...
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Apr 15, 2015 - 12:19pm PT
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Let me know if anyone needs info or assistance or a place to crash in Moab.... I work at the Info Center and have ample room to throw down a sleeping bag.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2015 - 12:34pm PT
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Room for you ecflau but after you I think it's best to put a lid on it. Seems like we have the right number for fun without crowding the campsite too much.
Tamara....come by and sit by the campfire. I'm sure that people would love to meet you!
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Tamara Robbins
climber
not a climber, just related...
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Apr 15, 2015 - 12:38pm PT
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I'll see what I can do - I'm off on Fridays and Saturdays.... thanks for the invite! Jim, I sent you a message through here with my contact info yesterday fyi
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Apr 15, 2015 - 01:42pm PT
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Ditto to what Tamara said (except I don't work at the visitors' center ;) )
We have a great washer and dryer....self serve though...no maid service!
Susan
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Apr 15, 2015 - 02:26pm PT
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never tried Goatfish!
the Monchong I just got in.... yum!
I was there and you were there.
Do you remember?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2015 - 06:40am PT
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This spring I have explored some "under the radar" walls that offer great climbing. One of them has some great shade for warm days.
The usual suspects: Supercrack, Battle of the Bulge, Cat Wall, Resevoir Wall, Scarface, Broken Tooth, Second Meat Wall, Optimator, 4by4, Way Rambo, and Pistol Whipped serve up great climbing but the area is so vast that wonderful climbs get neglected.
Even areas well travelled yield tasty new nuggets. Two weeks ago Jay Smith put up a two pitch, three star 5.11 on the Sparks Wall smack in between two popular climbs.
Keep the stoke going....only a couple of weeks to go!
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ecflau
Gym climber
CA
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Apr 21, 2015 - 03:43pm PT
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Hey donini, I may have missed it, but did you post where the campsite is? And how I find everyone? I haven't met most of you (but I know a few)... it'll be my first time at Indian Creek, excited! I've been wanting to go for years!!!
Thank you again for organizing and letting me come.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Apr 21, 2015 - 04:04pm PT
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A new cam, some old cams, individual biners, ready to go.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Apr 21, 2015 - 09:20pm PT
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Man.. So bummed.. I wanted to make it super bad but it 's just not gonna happen..
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 21, 2015 - 09:53pm PT
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ecflau is Ed? Hope you are coming man!
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Apr 21, 2015 - 10:45pm PT
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Mike, that sucks, Christina isn't coming and I was OK with that cause you were going to be there :(
Looks like my time there is going to be limited to part of Wednesday, Thursday and Friday till about noon...I have to be back in Vegas to teach a WFA class Saturday morning :-|
Edit to add, I'd like to do South Six Shooter on Thursday if anyone that is slow and/or patient is willing to climb with me, I will be sans partner without Mike being there.
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ecflau
Gym climber
CA
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Apr 21, 2015 - 11:57pm PT
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Yup thats me Vitaliy!
Driving out a little earlier, gonna stop by Red Rocks. If you change your ride situation and need a ride, let me know and I can pick you up / drop you off at Las Vegas if you wish. Excited!
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Urizen
Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
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Apr 22, 2015 - 09:42am PT
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T: I won't be arriving until very late on Thursday night, but I'm slow enough to climb South Six Shooter with you! Can we get it done on Friday morning? I don't know if my vehicle will make it to the trailhead, however.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Apr 22, 2015 - 01:57pm PT
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Travis- Sorry dude!! You and Urizen should click. He'll be a great partner for you. Have fun!!
Chris- you don't owe me nuthin man. I think I know what you have though, and I have to say, DOH!
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Apr 22, 2015 - 11:49pm PT
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Urz, my vehicle will make it no problem - I hope. Lift kit isn't in yet but it should be OK.
We can give it a go for Friday morning as long as we go early, I have to get back to Vegas at a somewhat decent hour to grab all the mannikins and crap for my class - I am going to try and get all the gear before I leave so I will have a little more time.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2015 - 10:37am PT
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I am leaving for the Creek in a couple of hours and will be incommunicado until next Wednesday when I make a resupply trip to Moab. Everything is ship shape for the meet. If some of you arrive early no es problema.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2015 - 01:27pm PT
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I posted final beta on the camping directions thread.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Apr 28, 2015 - 01:54pm PT
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Looking forward to seeing everyone. I'll be at camp by 9 AM Friday.
With two new rolls of tape and my hand jammies for extra umph in case I should happen to try a fist crack!
Phyl
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2015 - 01:56pm PT
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Still in Moab Phyl....you are going to love the Creek!
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Apr 28, 2015 - 02:42pm PT
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Jim,
Sorry I missed your post a week ago about Darrin. I'm pissed that I'll be in the UK when the episode hits the screen. That ought to be a real laugh!
I'll catch it later somehow. I'm glad he made it into the big-time. Perhaps he has a future career in the offing, and as always, have fun in the Creek.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 28, 2015 - 03:10pm PT
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Tape is aid, don't bring it.
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Apr 28, 2015 - 03:12pm PT
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Tape is aid, don't bring it.
Do not believe.
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Apr 28, 2015 - 03:14pm PT
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A new cam, some old cams, individual biners, ready to go.
Where's the other half phylp?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 29, 2015 - 02:01pm PT
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Was that yous guys down there?
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Anastasia
climber
Home
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Apr 29, 2015 - 02:30pm PT
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We can't make it but know we are there spiritually. One of these days we really are going to arrive on your doorstep in Patagonia.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 29, 2015 - 02:39pm PT
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Reilly, where is that? Looks cool.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 29, 2015 - 04:37pm PT
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Vitya, the both of us are waiting for the Bravecowboy or some such authority to say.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 29, 2015 - 05:10pm PT
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I think I was there, this morning. Looks like the sea monkeys version though
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Apr 29, 2015 - 09:11pm PT
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Best climbing shop in Moab?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 30, 2015 - 06:43am PT
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An Indian creek starter rack!
Fred, Gearheads! Also the Moab gear trader is always good for various deals.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 30, 2015 - 07:10am PT
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And, if any of you eat at quesadilla mobillia in Moab tell them jay Anderson sent you! Then they will bunch my frequent eater card!
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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The gatherings first full day today! I was with the battalion that went over to Supercrack Buttress.
Tiny phone typing is too tedious, so 'll just post a couple photos for now:
Jim, 1/3 of the way up Incredible hand Crack. He hasn't placed a piece yet. He placed two.
Relax, Guy put the rope up on Supercrack so the rest of us could enjoy the TR.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Best climbing shop in Moab?
Gearheads!
I will add some pics once the weekend gets done - had to come back earlier then I wanted to teach a WFA class. Need the moneycheck.
Anyways, first trip to the Crack...er, Creek was amazing. Jim gave me the grand tour on Thursday morning, and we strolled up to Supercrack Buttress. We were passing Dime Crack when he started talking to some dude with a heavy accent and his wife....and then says "Hey Travis, I'd like you to meet Ueli Steck!"
Super awesome to see two great alpinists chatting in the middle of the desert, and see that The Machine isn't just an alpine guy (he ran up Dime like it wasn't even there.)
Went to admire Supercrack and then Jim strolled up Triple Crack and set up a rope for me. Quickly learned the Creek "spit out" action and learned that yes, you need to tape even if you don't plan to climb much. Earned a couple gobies and an even healthier respect for Creek cracks....I wish I climbed a little harder as that was the only climbing (well, thrashing and not finishing) that I did for this trip. South Six Shooter was on my radar, but I didn't wake my partner for it up early enough to get it done before I had to head home on Friday.
Ran into town after the tour and met Luke when I was in Gearheads - awesome shop, awesome people, no attitude unlike the one I got at Pagan - will be doing all my shopping at Gearheads from now on. Made the mistake of taking a close look at that sweet Runout Customs ledge....was thinking about a single, now I am REALLY thinking about it haha. Bought some stuff I didn't really need anyways just because everyone was cool.
The fire and tales section was in full swing on Thursday night - was great to catch up with Moose, Relax and the others. Hung out with the gang at Supercrack for the morning, and then beat feet back to Vegas to get ready for my class. I'm looking forward to seeing the photos from the actual climbing crowd - the Creek is a magical place for sure! I want to go back, but I need to get serious and buckle down a bit if I want to climb there.
Thanks again, Jim, for organizing a great event - I had an awesome time!
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Wish I was there, but Jim did show me around the Creek a few years ago.
I was also chatting with a few notables last night for dinner, Doug Scott and Chris Bonnington stopped by, for a few drinks, as my wife and I are in the Lakes District, in the UK.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Yesterday's climbing destination was at Way Rambo cliff. Many pics were taken, none by me, but they will be coming.
We all climbed until we were worn out, which didn't take too long gor me. After completing or trying just four pitches, I was done! The day reminded me that to climb steep physical cracks you have to train by climbing steep physical cracks. It also reminded me how much I love this type of climbing.
As Ed H said in his trip report, to a certain degree, meaning if you know how to climb cracks and if you are reasonably fit, the rating is less important than the size. My hand size was an advantage in certain cracks but required me to work a lot harder in others.
The feast last night was a blast and the pit turkey was GREAT! Huge thanks to Jim and Angela for organizing it.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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One of the few photos I took with my phone...
Great outing, enjoyed meeting some of the STers in real life! Will upload a lot more later.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Besides the incredible pit cooked turkey (the BEST turkey I have ever had...thanks Jim, Angela for setting up everything; and Darrin, Naked and Afraid star, who was the cook...and it was not stuffed with rat or badger); there was climbing!
Just a few pics of one of the days at Rambo Wall area. I'll post more pics later.
Let the fun begin
Jim, or Head Honcho (oh gawd where is that cam headed?)
Everyone grab a belayer
The view
Susan
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Nice guys thanks! Looks so rad out there! Hope to hear more details and some pics would be sweet!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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First off, thanks Jim and Angela for putting this on, sorry to run out without thanking you, and saying good by! And thanks again, Phyl!
The season has switched to hot as of a few days before, but we were lucky to have shady overcast Sunday at least and for awhile on Saturday.
Phylp ( runner up in the Hartouni leg wear, understated division, challenge) belaying
Moose drool who was going Way Rambo ( some people go large when they hit a new area)
Ed ( last name unknown, by me anyway) saying "What cloud cover?" While being Serrated?
Cristina's, cruising Serrator in blasting sun, like it was nothing. I guess it gets hot in Brasil!
After this I went up, in full conditions, to aggravate my declining right arm issue, and get my foot stuck big time; up lacing, a helping hand from below ( thx Cristiano!) heat prostration the works!
That night was the turkey fest! Also mashed potatoes, stuffing, pickled beets, yum! And three choices of pie for desert!
The moon was cool, too!
The next day on the sabbatical / pregnant woman wall
Grug on something I should have brought the valley giant ( left in the car) for
Different crack, same story...
I give you, Eeyonkeeakaa Grug, aka Greg, the one, the legend!
We ended the day on Preganant woman grazing ( TR provided by Donin) another classic that I have somehow missed till now (wtf?) 5.10 hands through bulges, a 70m rope stretcher, with re-entry!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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What a fun few days we all had! I loved it. Special thanks to Jim and Angela for hosting such a truly cool event.
I arrived on Thursday around 2:30 - one of the first after Jim, Angela, and Page (and one or two others I think). After a welcoming and shortly after setting up camp, the Bay Area crew of Moosedrool, Vitaliy, and Christiano (maybe without the 'h') arrived. After a very short set-up time, the young guns (V and C) were ready for some action. I asked if I could tag along. They didn't say no.
We went on a short drive to the Optimator Wall. After a short hike, we ended up at a typical Indian Creek wall of varnished sandstone splitters and dihedrals and splitters in dihedrals. We ended up all leading different climbs (two for C and V) that included 4 distinct pitches. I think the pitches collectively went something like 5.10, 5.10+, 5.10+, and 5.12-. The cracks ranged from thin to wide. Both C and V were able to lead the 5.12- pitch that I could only follow with a big hang and a questionable final reach. Those guys looked strong.
Friday was spent at Supercrack Buttress, Saturday at Way Rambo Wall, and Sunday at Pregnant Woman Wall. Every evening was fun, but turkey day (Saturday), especially so. Here are a few photos.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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What a great gathering. Too much fun!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2015 - 07:16am PT
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Just back from the gathering....great group! Everyone got after the splitters and the turkey dinner was awesome....thanks Darrin!
Too busy to take photos....I'm glad others found the time.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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^^^^The San Diegans had a GREAT time on so many levels. It was really good to meet new friends and see the few older ones we have. Greg, it is always great to meet up with you and get inspired watching you climb. And I don't think this can be said too much, but thank-you Jim and Angela for everything! (We felt kind of bad leaving knowing that there was a fair amount of clean up to do before you could leave). A 14 hour drive later we were all home and tired but satisfied. Just a couple shots from us for now; more when we have time. What an area; Patty and I will be back for sure.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Moose, LOL!
That was fun seeing you guys drive by me on the 15 north of Vegas.
Phyl
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Awesome!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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It's okay...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Looks rad guys! Sorry i missed it!!
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Sabirila
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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It was a lot of fun and I am very glad I decided to go. I did not know what I was getting into in terms of the gathering but the surprise was more than pleasant. Looks like I will have to get more into this supertopo nonsense ;)
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sabirila, if you are planning to get into this ST thing, please be a little more mature than on the ride home last night. :)
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Looks like the same guys (kids, really) who were killing it at the cliffs.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2015 - 12:26pm PT
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I'll say, and some pixie dust rubbed off on Moose....he was cranking!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Yep...
Sorry to miss the fun! Too much work, not enough play...
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Sabirila
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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I am mature when my audience is mature...
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crøtch
climber
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Hey Jaybro,
Is this that crispy fist splitter at Pregnant Women that ends in a bit of an alcove? 30 feet left of a .10ish left facing corner?
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Sounds like everyone had a great time. Sorry we missed out, but Heidi & I were canyoneering about 100 miles farther south on a trip with friends that we planned last winter.
Speaking of Beaver, its neighbor up the Interstate used to have a slogan
"You've got a friend in Fillmore."
I always thought Beaver's slogan could be:
Beaver is wide-open for you!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Old bumper sticker purportedly made from SLC that I used to see in the BitnSpur in Springdale...
"Fillmore - Virgin - Beaver".
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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"Locals Only" ruins, brah
... except your picture identifies the location. I'd remove it.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab or In What Time Zone Am I?
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What did mike say about them? Something like "they look like they strangle wolverines for a living"? I shot a whole roll of film (showing my age) of the Wolverine Stranglers. Ummm... I wonder why???
Some randomness
Phyl rockin' techno tights....Ed watch out!
Susan
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Crotch, it's a climb called Birth, wider than fist. There is a climb to the right, can't remember if it's a corner....
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Looks like fun times, guise
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Thanks for the photos! I will work on a little report and am hoping 50 or so pictures I chose (out of like 400) will upload! I am at work, and put them up to load at home. Life is a rat race ATM, so don't blame me if it doesn't happen till next week.
The event was a blast. Had a LOT of fun and really enjoyed meeting new people, hanging out with old friends and climbing a few alright cracks...well, ok, it was no CA, but the climbing was GREAT! Hope to make it out there in the fall again. We should do a re-union meet up!!!!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Please stop lycra!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Nice-looking TR, Vitaliy.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Sweet tr V and Grug!
Thanks for all the pics Susan!
I still have yet to check out Burch's stuff.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Please stop lycra
Cept on girls:-D
Great thread kiddies!
Vitality your blog is a Beauty! (couldn't figure out how to post on it though:-( )
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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May 11, 2015 - 02:47pm PT
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I will try and get mine up tonight, what few I have anyways!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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May 12, 2015 - 12:23pm PT
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Those are beautiful pictures, Relax Guy.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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May 20, 2015 - 05:48am PT
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One Lagunitas and Moose REALLY loosens up. ;)
Thanks for putting those up for us Relax, Dude. Patty is the picture taker of the two of us (although I will take a few) and I'm sure she had Paige hold the camera on a few.
The little one is Lucia (sp?). I can't believe someone caught her not smiling.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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May 20, 2015 - 05:52am PT
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What a wonderful gathering.
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