Discussion Topic |
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 26, 2015 - 09:40am PT
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I always loved climbing in Eldorado Canyon. It wasn't too far from home and is normally very hard for sandstone..like it was heated and is slightly metamorphic. There are a ton of great routes on nigh perfect rock.
The color looks like Fountain Formation. I had to map a lot of that down south in the Canon City Embayment during field geology, but it is like kitty litter down there.
Great routes. Very little choss. Short hikes.
Josh is also good. Obviously Yosemtie is good. Never been to the gunks or sport climbed.
Still, I pick Eldo.
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Jones in LA
Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
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Feb 26, 2015 - 09:42am PT
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When you get into clean pegmatite in the Teton Range, it's like climber's candy.
Rich Jones
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EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
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Feb 26, 2015 - 09:48am PT
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From a tactile standpoint, Southern Sandstone wins. T-wall, Obed, NRG
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Feb 26, 2015 - 09:52am PT
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Of the places I've been---Buttermilks. Hands down.
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The Alpine
climber
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Feb 26, 2015 - 09:53am PT
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Best ROCK or best AREA?
For granite, nothing really compares to the needles.
As mentioned above, if you want the finest sandstone, head to the south.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 26, 2015 - 09:59am PT
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What, no love for limestone? Come on, nothing like good limestone, unless you like lots of pro
and you aren't into sport noobing.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Feb 26, 2015 - 10:11am PT
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I have a great fondness for Tuolumne knobs. Nothing is quite as much fun.
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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Feb 26, 2015 - 10:15am PT
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Kalymnos,Greece . its the best rock for sport climbing, kinda trippy features. For trad Eldo sandstone or Yosemite granite(especially Toulomne). For semi alpine rock the granite at Elephants Perch is hard to beat. These types of rock are great but its all good as long as its not to chossy.
Side note mention for Stanage grit and Devils lake quartzite, great rock but too short. now puke steve sangdahl
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Feb 26, 2015 - 10:19am PT
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Surprised you did not mention Quartz.
There are also some good climbs in Florida.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 26, 2015 - 10:19am PT
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Duh
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Feb 26, 2015 - 10:20am PT
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all those plates and chicken heads on the SoYo granite!
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crøtch
climber
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Feb 26, 2015 - 10:26am PT
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There are a few places I've been where it seemed like the rock HAD to be climbed because the holds are just tooooo good:
Indian Creek
Kalymnos (my limestone experience is limited)
Happy Boulders
Red Rock
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2015 - 10:32am PT
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Buttermilks? No way. I used to boulder there every day, and while it is nicely featured for granite, it isn't as fun as the tuff in the Happy's. I never climbed at Smith, but I think it is also tuff.
Limestone is obviously the most popular sport climbing rock in the world. Calcite has a hardness of only 3, though, so it must show signs of wear after a while. It is soluble in rainwater, so in humid areas you get caves and such, and caves are where it is at.
I remember reading something in a mag about how somebody liked climbing on gneiss. Geez. Most climbers really have only a vague idea of what rock they are on. Gneiss is normally like kitty litter.
I've often thought of writing a story for the mags about the geology of different rock, but I'm hopelessly mired in sedimentary rocks these days. I haven't worked a metamorphic rock in 30 years.....
Still, most people don't understand the mineral assemblages, grain size, and basic petrology of what they are on, despite the fact that they are on it every day.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Feb 26, 2015 - 10:33am PT
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Southern Yosemite.
This just in dropped the proof.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2015 - 10:35am PT
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The Cochise Stronghold has really long routes on those granite dinner plates. I'm not sure how they form. I assume that weathering creates a tough skin. Then that skin gets dissected and the separate plates appear.
Desert Varnish is getting some research. I read that it is partially the result of bacteria living on the surface of the sandstone.
Best ROCK or best AREA?
Both, really. I mentioned Eldo as my favorite. I preferred it to Boulder Canyon hands down.
The Needles have always looked incredible, partly because of the beautiful yellow lichen. It takes great photos, so there have been a ton of Needles photos published over the years.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Feb 26, 2015 - 10:37am PT
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The phonolite porphyry of Devils Tower has a pleasant appealing texture. It is my favorite.
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Jones in LA
Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
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Feb 26, 2015 - 10:55am PT
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"Gneiss is normally like kitty litter."
My recollection is that much of what we climb on in the Teton Range is Gneiss. If so, it's the best damn kitty litter on the planet :)
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Feb 26, 2015 - 11:07am PT
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Desert Varnish is getting some research. I read that it is partially the result of bacteria living on the surface of the sandstone.
Interesting.
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Feb 26, 2015 - 11:15am PT
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Tahquitz
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Feb 26, 2015 - 11:16am PT
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Tufas. Nothing else comes close. European limestone is the best.
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MikeL
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 26, 2015 - 11:19am PT
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The Needles, and backcountry granite in the Sierra.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 26, 2015 - 11:37am PT
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Squamish Granite.
Need I say more??
:)
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 26, 2015 - 11:39am PT
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Yeah Mike, say a lot more.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Feb 26, 2015 - 11:45am PT
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The Best Rock For Climbing On Earth I thought that the answer was obvious: granite
Shitty granite is still better than the best of any other type of rock
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Feb 26, 2015 - 11:50am PT
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Granite is best for me. I guess it depends on what sort of climbing you most prefer to do. Overall, El Cap is the best rock on Earth. I'm surprised more have not weighed in with that opinion. Probably I'm stating the obvious, and others are skirting the giant elephant in the room. :-)
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 26, 2015 - 11:53am PT
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I'm another SE & Eldo sandstone guy so I'm sticking with the Blue Mountains west of Sydney - it's like alternating layers of SE & Eldo sandstones. Mile after mile of it completely untouched.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Feb 26, 2015 - 11:56am PT
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Another vote for tufa / flowstone-based Limestone. From an engaging climbing focused on athleticism, there is none better. Let me be clear, Z.E.R.O rock that is even comparable to Limestone.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Feb 26, 2015 - 12:03pm PT
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all those plates and chicken heads on the SoYo granite!
That's the best I've experienced, but I've neither climbed nor bouldered on five of the seven continents. Near Eastern tufa can be fabulous or awful, depending on where you go. I did some wonderful bouldering above Beirut in 1970 until the gendarmerie told me it was forbidden.
John
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 26, 2015 - 12:09pm PT
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Ok then Justin. What's your pleasure?
Slabs on the ocean?
Finger cracks in the sky?
Or heinous underclings at the crags?
El Cap Granite is awesome, but it has nothing on the Chief. Our rock is grippy, splitter, and solid. Rockfall is rare here.
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Feb 26, 2015 - 12:10pm PT
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Burst and environs for rock and the Bitterroots for area.
Patina is a result of a microbial process between bacteria and the rock, specifically the clay component(I think?). I did a paper for a geo class in college in 95 or so. All I really remember is that there wasn't much literature for me to use for my paper. hhmmm, might have to look into it..
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Jones in LA
Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
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Feb 26, 2015 - 12:12pm PT
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I've never been up your way @bigmike, but that Squamish stuff looks really tasty. What texture! This has been educational.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 26, 2015 - 12:14pm PT
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It's as good as it looks Jones. Soyo granite is my second favorite. ;)
VVV- lol! You'd have to go for a walk before we went climbing Justin!! Lol
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 26, 2015 - 12:16pm PT
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Squamish does look superb, even in the rain. But those approaches are way too long.
You know I love to belay from my truck Mike.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Feb 26, 2015 - 12:20pm PT
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It is obviously the super crumbly choss in the South Fork when frozen together by a bunch multihued frosty stuff.
BTW Squamish does look awesome.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 26, 2015 - 12:24pm PT
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Mike- Get those passports ready! I'd love to show you and Jack around this summer! ;)
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 26, 2015 - 12:27pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Feb 26, 2015 - 12:32pm PT
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Maybe its the shattered granite of the Clarks Fork when held together by a rolling flow of malleable azul wavy frozen aqua.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Feb 26, 2015 - 12:38pm PT
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Sometime soon. The 75th Sturgis Rally is this summer and we were talking about doing something, but back to this best rock thing.
I have to agree with Wyorockman. Hard to beat this for Craggin. Sun or shade everyday, can be climbed year round, 250+ wickedly sustained multi-pitch routes in less than a mile of wall, and it is the center of the universe.
BTW soyo looks pretty awesome.
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Feb 26, 2015 - 12:38pm PT
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Arapiles
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Feb 26, 2015 - 12:41pm PT
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Never been there but many climbers from all over the world like Arapiles so it has to be good
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Feb 26, 2015 - 12:45pm PT
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The needles has many lifetimes of rock to explore.
BTW the Arapiles look awesome.
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OTC
Social climber
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Feb 26, 2015 - 12:48pm PT
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Does proximity weigh in?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 26, 2015 - 01:09pm PT
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Hummmmmm, let me think.....
IMHO... its all good.
but my mind could be changed.... why don't all of you send me some $$$$ so I can fly around to all the cool looking places listed above. Then I could be the judge.
what ya say????????????
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 26, 2015 - 02:16pm PT
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Maybe Bigwall is more your style?
Or maybe jamming is your thing...
Luke Cormier Photo
You said you like offwidth?
Kieran Brownie photo
Or was it 10- roof cracks?
No, no.. It was 40m hand to off fist splitter corners ...
We have those too...
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Feb 26, 2015 - 02:23pm PT
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Um, gee...wow! Some awesome pics in this thread.. In particular, Squamish!
Thanks for the images y'all. I gotta get back to Squamish, I've only been once and totally lucked out on the weather for a week. 97 or 98? Cheakamus was rad too.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 26, 2015 - 02:37pm PT
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Thanks Cragar! If you liked chek you should be familiar with this area.
You say you don't like crack????
Yes we have clip ups too.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Feb 26, 2015 - 02:45pm PT
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That IS impressive-looking, Mike!
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Feb 26, 2015 - 02:48pm PT
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You said you like offwidth?
No....
No, I never said that.
Never said it and never will.
Offwidth is what high explosives were designed to solve.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 26, 2015 - 02:55pm PT
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Thanks Richard! If you look closely at the photo you can tell that ryand isn't really fond of "awfulwidth" either.. Lol
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Feb 26, 2015 - 03:07pm PT
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Sport: Limestone
Everything else: granite (see this just in and big mike's pictures for proof)
Pucker Factor: conglomerate
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Feb 26, 2015 - 03:12pm PT
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Hey Mike!
I love crack, no doubt. I'll never forget the Sword, never.
I recognize that rock but I don't think I got on any of those...just the 2 or so .11s and a couple 'ez' .12s. After Cheak, we went to Whistler and went to the market there. I think it had produce from every corner of the world. I also found Roach armor in that zone, good times!
Nice pics, keep 'em coming!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 26, 2015 - 03:12pm PT
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Top third of SoYo's biggest wall
I think you said something about roofs?
Domes, domes, everywhere.
Shitty views
Practice climbing
Sorry Squamish
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Feb 26, 2015 - 03:19pm PT
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The Needles. The stuff of dreams
I agree if you're talking about South Dakota.
For masculine, manly athletics: Dakota sandstone.
;>)
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Feb 26, 2015 - 03:27pm PT
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ryand isn't really fond of "awfulwidth" either.. Lol
Is anybody fond of offwidth?
Sick puppies! They are also who high explosives are designed to solve.
:-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 26, 2015 - 03:39pm PT
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Ya Justin.. The views here are pretty crappy too...
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 26, 2015 - 03:46pm PT
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No fair dude, you can't pull the Ocean Card! I guess I'm gunna actually have to climb Squamish before I can make my final decision. Lol.
Sick pics Mike.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 26, 2015 - 03:49pm PT
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You pull the plate card, i'll pull the ocean card.. Lol
One for cragar
The sword 11a
Don't get me wrong.. I love SoYo!
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Feb 26, 2015 - 03:54pm PT
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My vote goes to the City of Rocks in Idaho but i've only climbed in the states
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 26, 2015 - 03:56pm PT
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You pull the plate card, i'll pull the ocean card Haha, well played.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 26, 2015 - 04:15pm PT
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The city for sure is no slouch.
Quality Rock.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 26, 2015 - 04:21pm PT
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The Best Rock For Climbing On Earth that I've ever seen is in Mali Africa.
Thousand miles of untouched rock with big walls.
The rock is super excellent too.
The only problem is there's no water and it's hotter n sh!t.
and now the fuking ISIS creeps are there.
Went a whole day and night without water on one tower and was hallucinating all kinds of cold drinks .....
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 26, 2015 - 04:31pm PT
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Enough of my crags is better than yours stuff.... WE ALL KNOW that the best stone on EARTH is here:
Stoney Point...........
Word
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EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
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Feb 26, 2015 - 04:39pm PT
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Enough of my crags is better than yours stuff....
But that's the genius of this seemingly innocent thread.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 26, 2015 - 04:48pm PT
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But that's the genius of this seemingly innocent thread.
This is one of the best ever on the taco....
its making me wet.
keep em coming
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 26, 2015 - 05:16pm PT
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More COR
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 26, 2015 - 05:20pm PT
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It's a no brainer. Pick one type of rock in the whole world which is the best for climbing? GRANITE. period.
There's tons of exotic rock out there and they're all great, but the best single type on Earth? GRANITE. period.
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Jeff G
Trad climber
Fort Collins
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Feb 26, 2015 - 05:25pm PT
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Feb 26, 2015 - 05:25pm PT
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There is only one possible answer...
There IS No Best Rock, there is too Much Great/Best Rock on this earth to be able to call one rock better than the other
It's all the Best, even the Sh#t Rock at Josh
But to say what would be the best for me.. water polished granite with the occasional quartz and garnet crystals, or maybe a crystal pod you can crawl into!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 26, 2015 - 05:31pm PT
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Yup,
to what that guy above ,all, said the best rock is the one you can't get out of your head.
Above the Vallet park my car Grease please,Thiis was the Most number of life time summits that I have ever seeen,(Picture the Pickett Fence South Dakota)I just would under stand for atmosphere
still I have to go back to the Mother OR this Mother .were this was the entrance exam. The Left side crack & Foops is Mid terms,The left edge of this picture is (climber for scale) is a final exam. BLADE RUNNER. J Mills/R Clune very nice!
( there once was a "work "pin top of that,left streak) (just sprayin')</;-P
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 26, 2015 - 05:51pm PT
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Here's the ocean card...
"SLACK!"
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RyanD
climber
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Feb 26, 2015 - 06:32pm PT
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Big Mikes full of it!
Nothing to see here.
So maybe he happened to have pics of 3 of the 8 cracks in town that are wider than a gold Camelot, it's all a sham- there's no ow here. Stay away masochists, they can all be laybacked at 5.7
Everything else climbable here represents a featureless slab wasteland with gross misuse of bolt guns starting from the top featuring updated anchors where u could probably dig out an A3 RP placement and back it up on a dead tree root. Tradition has been replaced with convenience here and if you value your souls you will stay away.
Who wants to sit at a belay 500' off the ground enjoying the views And not hAving to think u and ur partner could die at any second due to belay failure? Happens all the time here unfortunately.
The valley is where u want to go, way more of everything and not so many annoying dogs trying to be your friend. Bigger walls, better weather, cheaper beer & smokes, way more ancient fixed mank, the list goes on.
Personally though from what I've touched I'd also have to say font would be a good place to climb until u die, probably the best on earth according to my sliding scale of judgement.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 26, 2015 - 06:46pm PT
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SoYo secret spot, the geology is crazy on this wall. So many weird colors.
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RyanD
climber
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Feb 26, 2015 - 06:47pm PT
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^^^^
Best on earth!!!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 26, 2015 - 06:51pm PT
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We onsighted this shit
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RyanD
climber
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Feb 26, 2015 - 07:00pm PT
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^^^^Best route in Squamish right there, if u can get past the tree that was needlessly murdered to create it.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 26, 2015 - 07:04pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
Definitely Death Metal. Nothing better than singing lyrics to our Dark Lord as I'm super run out on a 5.7. Hardcore.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 26, 2015 - 08:13pm PT
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Pay no attention to this guy. No he is not having fun.
Featureless slabs abound
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Feb 26, 2015 - 10:45pm PT
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Granite seems to attract the most climbers.
No good when polished but when heavily featured is awesome. Some of the photos of featured granite in this tread are exceptional.
So Big Mike is right. Especially on the City of Rocks, Idaho granite. That stuff is mighty fine. Well featured and not too slick.
But for those of us who live in LA, well....
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Feb 26, 2015 - 10:53pm PT
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Chuckanut Sandstone, so soft you can't pull hard enough to hurt tendons...
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Gunkie
climber
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Feb 27, 2015 - 07:01am PT
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Anything on Swan Slab
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 27, 2015 - 07:03am PT
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EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
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Feb 27, 2015 - 07:23am PT
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Werd!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 27, 2015 - 07:29am PT
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Fishing for more pics Mike.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 27, 2015 - 07:32am PT
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There's climbing outside of California?
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 27, 2015 - 07:38am PT
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Feb 27, 2015 - 07:56am PT
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Featured limestone is my favorite - no other stone in my experience has the variety of features (holes, ribs, knobs, tufas, scallops, etc.) - all produced by its hyper-susceptibility to chemical weathering. Never had more fun on the rock than climbing at Kalymnos. The limestone at Hells Canyon is also incredibly interesting.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 27, 2015 - 09:48am PT
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Fishing? What for? ;)
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2015 - 10:34am PT
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Awesome photos. Squamish looks incredible.
Somebody mentioned City of Rocks. Nobody has mentioned Heuco Tanks. I remember when it was super popular. Even Fish would leave Cali for climbing and bouldering in Texas. Too bad about the access issues.
What kind of rock do those areas have? Granite?
It is amazing how a single rock can have such a wild variation in the way that it weathers and holds are created.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Feb 27, 2015 - 10:40am PT
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The Gritstone in PA gets my vote. More of it there than in England. Still relatively un-tapped.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 27, 2015 - 10:42am PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 27, 2015 - 11:12am PT
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Granite is great in all it's forms.
Shuteye Ridge, Grey Eagle.
The world's best rock is all in... North America! (except for Marlow's contribution).
Fly me to the destination of your choice! I'll happily report back. ;)
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 27, 2015 - 11:16am PT
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In MY world, it's Tahquitz Rock granite.
That's my opinion, cuz I'm stickin' to it.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 27, 2015 - 11:21am PT
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Tahquitz granite is great unless a basket ball sized chunk falls (or gets pushed) on your head. ;-)
I've got some stories... I go to suicide instead now...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 27, 2015 - 11:47am PT
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Nick on Wrist Twister C2
Tantalus Wall, Stawamus Chief
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 27, 2015 - 11:57am PT
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Let's see.....granite, gneiss, basalt, limestone, sandstone. Each possesses special attributes, none reigns supreme.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Feb 27, 2015 - 12:01pm PT
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Tahquitz granite is great unless a basket ball sized chunk falls (or gets pushed) on your head. ;-)
True that.
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Feb 27, 2015 - 12:10pm PT
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The old fly nails it!
Damn, glad to see that weird @ssed orange rope is at least a tag line.
I gotta scan some slides.
Thanks again for the pics
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 27, 2015 - 12:19pm PT
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Damn, glad to see that weird @ssed orange rope is at least a tag line.
Lol. Ya the Pano function doesn't deal well with moving objects.
All types of rock are grand.. But some of us have our favourites based solely on our experiences.. :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 27, 2015 - 12:32pm PT
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Sandstone is fun too...
But it's not the most solid rock.
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Jeff G
Trad climber
Fort Collins
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Feb 27, 2015 - 03:49pm PT
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Feb 27, 2015 - 04:04pm PT
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Joshua Tree razor sharp granite!
What are ya, a wuss?
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Feb 27, 2015 - 04:13pm PT
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It's all good if it's all good :) chert, gneiss, volcanic tuff etc etc..
I love my local and very rare Blue Schist but mainly for me it's simple;
Limestone sport climbing (pairs perfectly with reggae or mellow hip hop)
Sandstone bouldering (pairs perfect with techno or rap/hip hop)
Granite trad climbing (pairs with classical or old school rock-n-roll)
~jus my 2 cents.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Feb 27, 2015 - 04:23pm PT
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Big Mike--was that the Crack of Doom @ the City? That thing damn near killed me. I thought I would just put in some fists and bust it on up-NOT! that thing chewed me swallowed me and then barfed me out. I was so blown I was coughing and wheezing for about a half hour after.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 27, 2015 - 05:43pm PT
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Dingus- Yes. See explanation up thread.
Hobo- Yeah it was! Hardly Visible led Morning Glory chimney next to it, and we rapped over it. I heard most of the difficulties were at the start?
here's another view.
Crack Of Doom - City of Rocks
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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Feb 27, 2015 - 06:31pm PT
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The Taft Granite...to be specific.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 27, 2015 - 06:40pm PT
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Rock climbing is segmented....rock types lend themselves to that.
Give me:
Limestone for sport.
Sandstone for cracks.
Basalt for stemming.
Granite/gneiss for multi pitch and alpine.
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RyanD
climber
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Feb 27, 2015 - 07:27pm PT
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^^^
But what do you Boulder on Donini?!?!
I'll say Font again, if you've been you probably agree. If you have been and you don't agree I'd love to hear how this is possible?!?
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2015 - 11:54am PT
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Not just the geology, but the petrology (the makeup of the rock) is what makes sandstone worthless in one place and incredible in another.
I would like to see an article about the geology of what our fingers and feet have all touched. I'm not up for it. As I said, I deal with sedimentary rocks exclusively, and buried under thousands of feet of overlying rock.
Somebody should do it.
Wiki is interesting if you are climbing an interesting rock, like schist or gneiss.
The Wingate is not a typical sandstone. Most sedimentary rocks were preserved in shoreline environments. Wingate is an ancient desert. The dunes were huge. That is why it is so massive, thick, and without horizontal breaks. A lot of the rocks on the Colorado plateau are like that.
Limestone is hot among sport climbers because it easily forms caves, and caves are where it is at. It weathers into a nice texture, filled with holds-even the mono's that we Sharma doing dynos off of.
Other than Rifle, the U.S. isn't that blessed with limestone. Europe is, particularly Spain. You can see how it weathers. For one, it is soluble in rain water over time, and creates tufas and interesting features to climb on.
In the long run, though, limestone is such a soft rock that holds get slippery with use. It has a hardness of 3, harder than talc and gypsum.
Quartzite is an interesting rock that often gets mis-identified. All it is is sandstone that has been cooked. It becomes much harder than the original sandstone. I mapped some incredible quartzite in Colorado back in school. It wasn't high enough to climbe, but I've heard that some of the new areas climb on it.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Feb 28, 2015 - 12:10pm PT
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The Best Rock For Climbing On Earth?
Someplace that is still off the radar, hasn't been written up in the mags yet or been beaten to death by beta on the intertubes.
There are thousands of routes and boulders to climb, the camping and access are free and your Mom is back at camp with dinner ready.
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