The Greatest Untapped Bouldering Potential in California

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Messages 1 - 69 of total 69 in this topic
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 19, 2015 - 10:07am PT
hwy 178


It will never be Bishop because some boulders are farther than a stones throw.

Take for example this... just sitting in the open, near a road, undisclosed.


Someone send me the underground topos please! I drive over this road too often not to stop on the regular.

NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Feb 19, 2015 - 10:09am PT
Wagon Wheel also seems to have a lifetime worth of problems.
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Feb 19, 2015 - 10:10am PT
There's so much rock around there that no one climbs. In case you don't have it and you want to take a look at the Domelands guide I have it (Vernon).

Long drive though from round here though.

this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Feb 19, 2015 - 10:16am PT
Haha, when I'd drive to Bishop I always thought of all that rock I'm driving past is a lot closer. Nice pic Munge.
chipper_shredder

Social climber
outinthecuts
Feb 19, 2015 - 10:25am PT
posting a pic labeled "undisclosed "

then want beta ?

ha ,what nerve !
Psilocyborg

climber
Feb 19, 2015 - 10:25am PT
SW riverside county. have fun!
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Feb 19, 2015 - 10:26am PT
It has to be really steep...overhanging. Nobody does slabs anymore.

I keep hearing that....Can't be true though as I've met a couple slab masters in my wanderings.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2015 - 10:31am PT
posting a pic labeled "undisclosed "

then want beta ?

ha ,what nerve


LOL, are you saying you want to know where that pic is?

Just ask, guy.

:)
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2015 - 10:33am PT
thx Kev. I have Domelands. Even climbed a thing or two out that way. Been meaning to get back that direction. Seasonal temps being what they are I'm usually not able to get in when it isn't toasting.
rincon

Trad climber
Coarsegold
Feb 19, 2015 - 11:04am PT
I hope your'e not holding out for topos...Just do it!
Cragar

climber
MSLA - MT
Feb 19, 2015 - 11:06am PT
Between Bako and Tehachapi??
Cragar

climber
MSLA - MT
Feb 19, 2015 - 11:10am PT
oops, I was thinking hwy 58...which also has serious potential....

Looks like Lake I is in the area...

Ever been up Erskine Ck in Kern Valley?
Killer K

Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
Feb 19, 2015 - 11:12am PT
If I'm going anywhere near BF I'd rather go to the needles wouldn't you? Isn't Wagon Wheel closed? Or am I thinking of that other area near Visalia?
rincon

Trad climber
Coarsegold
Feb 19, 2015 - 11:13am PT
Some good stuff right next to the road below Kernville Slab
A kernville local named Spencer Josif recently did a V7 problem on the left side of this face. The right leaning rail is an old classic 5.10. Spencer and his buddies have been doing a lot of FA's around there lately, when they're not kayaking class V rapids or worse.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Feb 19, 2015 - 11:19am PT
On the way back from Death Valley via Wildrose Canyon with my kids last year, we drove through Trona and had a picnic dinner atop a cluster of rocks at Wagon Wheel. No closures or regulation apparent. It was like the movie Road Warrior or Megaforce with all the off-road vehicles but with heavy metalish music. Boulders everywhere to horizons.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 19, 2015 - 11:25am PT
Ha... tons of bouldering every where....

Lots of it in Kern County... ever drive from Weldon to Jawbone Canyon???

Much more in INYO county.... ever wonder just what you cant see???

I can't disclose locations without permission, but if ya do FB the pictures are online.... Lisa Rands and Willis Young can have the overhanging V10s....
Yafer and I have been hunting the good slab action.... a fine pastime for us older gentlemen.




The above is still a project, I think, the top is about 12 inches away, your feet are on dimes, so you can't dyno.... and how the heck did a slick glacer polished boulder find its way into the middle of the untracked desert???

Love you guys, always.


rincon

Trad climber
Coarsegold
Feb 19, 2015 - 11:34am PT
These are all part of a good cicuit below Kernville Slab just steps from your car. Back at Lake Isabella there's another really fun cicuit of boulders right next to the road in Boulder Gulch campground. All along 178 the scattered boulders are numerous and would be quite an effort to document. That sh#t's getting climbed though. Chimney Peak road's seen some action lately. Me and Guy climbed most of the boulders BITD, ha Guy :)
Friend

climber
Feb 19, 2015 - 11:37am PT
^^ Sick shots, all

FA of Nail Bender 5.11+

FA of Caramello 5.10+
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2015 - 11:51am PT
hah! Rincon's holding! ;)


Not really serious about the topos, as typically the case, the excited ones just go from boulder to boulder and never document anything.

It will need mags, rags and tags before it gets off the ground in any comprehensive guidebook.

I would guess that this stuff might show up in an area guidebook, but last I heard only a Needles book is being worked on by Kris S.

The overall area guide got pushed back when EC's hard drive died. :(


Hope ya'll are having a blast! If I was solo driving, I would have stopped this last weekend. Temps were perfection and had one of those neo-maxi-zoom-dweebie-pads with me too!

guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 19, 2015 - 01:03pm PT
Rincon.... yes we DID all of them.... :>)

Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Feb 19, 2015 - 01:06pm PT
The greatest untapped bouldering potential in California is like, underground, man.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 19, 2015 - 01:12pm PT
Brandon... you got that right...

Friend... are those at Black Mt??

Bad ass landing in the second shot...

Rincon, are you finding anything new up in your new home???? I know you be looking around.

and Munge.... please tell the truth, is that shot from a road? or a plane?
krahmes

Social climber
Stumptown
Feb 19, 2015 - 02:49pm PT
Munge-
Rocky Point, Lake Isabella farside of the lake?
guyman
Coso Boulders on the road to McCloud Flats. People have bouldered there for years.
The first rule of fight club... but I no longer care.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2015 - 03:16pm PT
Krahmes got it.


Shot from the hwy 178 side across Lake Isabella.


I didn't even realize the flowers were blooming until I looked at the pic on the big screen.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 19, 2015 - 03:26pm PT
karhems.... different part of the Cosos.... close to Mike Strasmans Last route. Head in from the north end....

I'll talk about it here, cause I have seen it on FB all bandied about...

but still best not to generally spread the word.

The whole place is so pristine, not a bit of litter to be found. Only a few fire rings and few roads. Be nice to keep it that way for a few more years, jus saying

Friend

climber
Feb 19, 2015 - 03:36pm PT
Those boulders look killer!!

Guy - yeah, greater San Jacinto area and environs.

FA Satellite Crack 5.11+

FA Standing in the Bed of a Wagon 5.11+
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 19, 2015 - 03:53pm PT
Friend.... thanks for the info.

Please keep it up...

splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Feb 19, 2015 - 04:55pm PT
drove through there a few months ago and climbed at kern slab. hard to keep your eyes on that windy road. :)
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2015 - 05:16pm PT
roger that!

pyrosis

Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
Feb 19, 2015 - 07:19pm PT
Friend - those new lines look epic.

Munge - my mouth is watering

guyman - the ESS looks dope, I keep meaning to make the drive down there but its a bit warm this year no?
Gersh

Trad climber
San Diego, Ca
Feb 19, 2015 - 08:25pm PT
Wow, now this is a fun thread!
HighGravity

Trad climber
Southern California
Feb 19, 2015 - 08:35pm PT
Kings Canyon, San Jacinto wilderness (especially the high country), and a new place I just found in the Coachella Valley. The last is the reddish weathered rock similar to the stuff found in J-tree and there are thousands of boulders scattered about. Now if I could find that photo.....
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2015 - 10:10pm PT
I'm going to say SEKI is a runner up for untapped potentiality.
thebravecowboy

climber
On this ride, I'm cptn; My pals call me Shackleton
Feb 19, 2015 - 10:54pm PT
satellite crack looks rad!!!!!
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 20, 2015 - 07:34am PT
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
Feb 20, 2015 - 07:38am PT
San Diego back country, great time to hit it up right now before it gets too hot.

McCain Valley
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2015 - 08:13am PT
Ok, SD takes the lead. Cheeses that's a lot of chedda!
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
Feb 20, 2015 - 08:37am PT
Culp Valley, near Borrego Springs.
Plenty of camping and boulders all to yourself.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 20, 2015 - 09:08am PT
Pyrosis.... now is the season. Weather is about the same as the A-Hills....

And speaking of that place...lots of bouldering to do, one day I was alone and found a ton of short stuff around the Temple of Kali, Arizona Dome.

Rincon do you mind if I scan and post your Kern Slab bouldering mini guide you gave me???

Friend

climber
Feb 20, 2015 - 10:04am PT
All these photos are getting me psyched for exploration.

Hi Rob, that Anza shot looks like a boulderer's version of an easter egg hunt!

The Satellite Crack is 5 star, starts wide hands and narrows evenly to fingers up high. Its backside has a 5.10 move getting started and then sweet 5.8 hand jams all the way. "Diamond in the Rough" FA by me and Tom
Friend

climber
Feb 20, 2015 - 10:07am PT
I'm sorry for hogging the thread, I could go on all day. So many sweet boulders still to find.

When Electricity Came to 7 Pines 5.11+ FA

FA of 20% Tip 5.11+

FA of Powerage 5.11+
rincon

Trad climber
Coarsegold
Feb 20, 2015 - 10:34am PT
Hi Guy! Yes, post it up!

Friend, nice looking boulders. San Jacinto mountains has such excellent rock quality!!! How do you know if a boulder problem is an FA?
Friend

climber
Feb 20, 2015 - 11:58am PT
Likewise dude!

Hmm, well, all of the boulders I posted require a couple hour hike plus a liberal amount of off-trail wandering (not visible from trails).

Seeing as how new problems are still being established at quick access areas like Black Mtn and the Tramway, I'm pretty sure they are FAs. I've talked to a lot of local folks and put them on mountainproject to see if anyone recognized them but I've never heard anything.

I really like hiking in the mtns, and things like Powerage and Doden are some of the best problems I've ever done, but for someone who wants to jump out of the car and crank, they would probably be minus-5 stars!
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Feb 20, 2015 - 12:05pm PT
Dude, powerage looks like one of the coolest problems in the world.

Umm, can you convert those to the V-scale for us boulderers. Haha, just kidding, thanks for the beautiful pics.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 20, 2015 - 12:32pm PT
Dang Andy, those look sweet. Way to get after it!

Check with rtm. I know they have been pretty active around the tram.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2015 - 01:15pm PT
Since we're going further afield of 178...

Old shot of FF

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2015 - 01:17pm PT
Forgot the name of this formation near IW

darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 20, 2015 - 02:23pm PT
WOW, Powerage does indeed look sweet. No pads? DANG. I'll take two for that one.

The thing about the McCain Valley stuff is that it's SO grainy. So much kitty litter out there. But I know there are some gems (I've found a few). There are splitters to be found, which are of relative high quality. Many of them are marked with a pole to help you locate them.

Culp Valley = Amazing, lots of potential still

Jasper Boulders = right near Culp Valley, lots of development happening there over the past few years. Plenty more out there!
HighGravity

Trad climber
Southern California
Feb 20, 2015 - 04:57pm PT

Found a photo of the area in the Coachella Valley. The larger boulders here are several stories high. Now I need to find the time to explore.
Friend

climber
Feb 22, 2015 - 09:30pm PT
Rob - yeah, I've talked with Robert and others finding sweet new problems in/near the Tram area. Lots of potential.

Just In - it's hard to say without any kind of consensus, but, in the v3-4 ballpark.

I posted this on a Whippers thread recently. I kind of had to see what the fall was like, before I could really commit and go for it. I stuck it on my next try (a subsequent day). My footprints are probably still there.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 22, 2015 - 09:39pm PT
Ok, SD takes the lead. Cheeses that's a lot of chedda!

I knew you'd come around, Mungie. That last stage of grief is always acceptance.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
Oct 25, 2015 - 09:51pm PT
Baja California
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2015 - 09:56pm PT
oh sure, just leave that pic right there. ;)

lol
Tipkiss

Trad climber
CA
Oct 25, 2015 - 10:54pm PT
kern river
the crack turned my hands black
anyone recognize this corner?
Larry Nelson

Social climber
Oct 25, 2015 - 11:02pm PT
California is the greatest...San Diego East County is awesome.
mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
Mar 27, 2017 - 01:35pm PT
thx Kev. I have Domelands. Even climbed a thing or two out that way. Been meaning to get back that direction.

Ahhhem......what are you waiting for? Leave that white sh*t alone and get down here to enjoy t-shirt weather climbing. And waiting for your Under-roo's to come in is not an excuse.
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Mar 27, 2017 - 02:18pm PT
Yeah, if only all of San Diego County caught fire one year and knocked the chapparal back you've have an amazing decade of bouldering. It might even make the real estate affordable again.
Climberdude

Trad climber
Clovis, CA
Mar 27, 2017 - 06:43pm PT
Yes, there is a ton of bouldering just off of Hwy. 178. I found a nice highball boulder problem or short crack climb right off of Chimney Peak Road. Turn off of 178 onto Chimney Peak Road and go on this road past the very gradual 90 degree turn. Go about 2 miles along the road and park at a major turnout on the left. Hike north to the formation under trees.
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Mar 27, 2017 - 06:52pm PT
did it 9 years ago. as with most of the BP's on that road.
7SacredPools

Trad climber
Ontario, Canada
Mar 27, 2017 - 06:55pm PT
Friend:
Don't know if you're still on this site, but I just came across your amazing pics. Couldn't open the "Powerage" one though, and what with everyone raving about it...
Contractor

Boulder climber
CA
Mar 27, 2017 - 07:15pm PT
SD back, back country

I can't get to the Boulders I want to get to because great boulders keep getting in my way.
Friend

climber
Mar 27, 2017 - 10:06pm PT
Hey. Not sure why some of the picture show and some don't.

Here are some obscure classics. Plenty of untapped potential out there.

Powerage https://vimeo.com/51921525
Agatha Christie https://vimeo.com/144897652
7 Pines Arete https://vimeo.com/182333978

P.S. looks sick Drew. Can't wait to get out and explore with you and the boys.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2017 - 09:19am PT
There are several high sierra boulder fields that are ultra classic in quantity and quality, but the hike in with pads would be murder.

Why hasn't "Horse Padding" caught on yet?

A few hundred bucks and you could have all the comforts of Bishop with untapped boulder fields.

micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Mar 28, 2017 - 12:45pm PT
Rad videos Friend. Way to hang it out there.
Contractor

Boulder climber
CA
Mar 28, 2017 - 05:06pm PT
Andrew!

That Powerage! It's like a little pocket pitch with various styles packed in 20 feet.

Is that a lonely Boulder you found?
Friend

climber
Mar 28, 2017 - 11:11pm PT
Munge: totally
Micronut: thanks dude!
Contractor: a premium minature for sure.

More pics please.....
7SacredPools

Trad climber
Ontario, Canada
Mar 29, 2017 - 04:43am PT
Those are incredible lines Friend, thanks for the links.
Garry
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 29, 2017 - 04:44am PT
Trona is said to be the center of the universe....
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Mar 29, 2017 - 05:28am PT
Messages 1 - 69 of total 69 in this topic
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