Rick Accomazzo Article re: Tobin Sorenson -- Alpinist 49

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looking sketchy there...

Social climber

Lassitude 33

Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 10, 2015 - 12:37pm PT

I recently renewed my subscription to Alpinist and my first issue (49) landed in the mailbox yesterday. In addition to a couple other interesting pieces, is a truly wonderful article by Rick Accomazzo which examines his late friend, the now mythical, Tobin Sorenson.

The article uses the lens of Tobin's astounding season in the Alps to examine Tobin's life, motivations and climbing achievements. Rick did considerable research to bring to light the details about those climbs (some of which have never been published or even widely known) -- including Rick's first person account of his and Tobin's first ascent Dru Couloir Direct.

Simply a wonderful read and the epitome of riveting, thought-provoking biography and climbing narrative.

Congratulations Rick on a superbly well done tribute.

dee ee

Mountain climber

citizen of planet Earth

Feb 10, 2015 - 04:06pm PT

Must read.

John Mac

Trad climber

Littleton, CO

Feb 10, 2015 - 05:19pm PT

Sometimes I start thinking that I should cancel my subscription once I get to number 50, (I have every one including 0) and then an article like this comes along and I'm locked in for a few more years...

Fantastic insight into Tobin.

Fat Dad

Trad climber

Los Angeles, CA

Feb 10, 2015 - 05:28pm PT

Wow, first the Doug Robinson article about the Palisades in No. 48 and now this. Can't wait to check the mailbox when I get home.

Brunosafari

Boulder climber

Feb 10, 2015 - 06:42pm PT

I'll be buying one or three issues!!!!!

johntp

Trad climber

socal

Feb 10, 2015 - 06:55pm PT

okay, gonna resubscribe. I find Tobin stories fascinating.

Rick A

climber

Boulder, Colorado

Feb 10, 2015 - 07:29pm PT

Thanks for the kind words, Randy and John; they are much appreciated.

It was a story that I had wanted to tell for a long time and I am glad to finally get it done. I had a lot of fun writing it, and it was a good excuse to reconnect with Tim and Lee Sorenson, and to chat and correspond with a bunch of people connected to Tobin, including two of Tobin's climbing partners from 1977, Gordon Smith and Todd Eastman.

I had the help of not just one, but two editors at Alpinist. Katie Ives and Matt Samet both offered perceptive comments and criticisms, which resulted in the final version being immeasurably better than it would have been.

Thanks also to Dave (Brassnuts) for his photography expertise in administering first aid to some of the old slides.

Bushman

Social climber

Elk Grove, California

Feb 10, 2015 - 08:57pm PT

So excited Rick, and can't wait to read it, will want to order multiple copies for the clan, Dad, Tom, Tara, and other family members.

Tara's son, my nephew, is a carpenter named David Tobin (Tobin is his middle name). Also her daughter, my niece, named her first born son after my bro last year, (our new great nephew) Lee's new great grand son, Tobin.

Tobin's legacy is strong in our family and we only wish we had him longer, as do all his friends and those who knew him. Thanks for keeping his memory alive and sharing it.

-Tim

hashbro

Trad climber

Mental Physics........

Feb 10, 2015 - 11:52pm PT

There is so much still to learn from the long past escapades of visionaries like Tobin, Rick and the other Stone Masters.

They proved that seizing the day does work and the effects of which might last at least a lifetime (and probably many). For Tobin (and the Stonemasters) boredom was not possible.......and what was possible, was limitless.

Can't wait to read this and thanks for making it possible Rick.

bhilden

Trad climber

Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO

Feb 11, 2015 - 12:14am PT

Climbing visionaries, like Tobin, inspire us to do more in our own lives!

ps - one of my favorite photos of Tobin was of him leading Insomina at Suicide chimneying out into the handcrack with his wallet still in his climbing pants!

Mark Force

Trad climber

Cave Creek, AZ

Feb 11, 2015 - 05:15pm PT

That has to be one of the most stylin' climbing photos ever. Isn't that a butt bag in his back pocket?

Bushman

Social climber

Elk Grove, California

Feb 16, 2015 - 07:05pm PT

On Rick's article about Tobin's big Alps season, 1977, in Alpinist 49.

I was emailing back and forth with Brunosafari this past week in anticipation of the new issue of Alpinist and also reminiscing with and reconnecting with Bruce after all these years since Tobin left us. Bruce was such a good friend to Tobin and was so close and pivotal in supporting our family during that difficult time. After reading Rick Accamazzo's article last Saturday, I emailed Bruce with my impressions and thoughts and decided to post those similar comments here:

While reading Rick's article on Tobin's big season in Alpinist 49, I could not put it down as I poured over it for a good two hours, taking in all Tobin's fantastic experiences again and again in my mind, all of the exhilarating mountain faces, reliving my memories of all of his intensity and passion, and of course the painful tragedy of his death. It was such a celebration though, Ricky's touching and informative tribute to a great climbing partner and friend, honoring Tobin's life and achievements. Rick was very thorough in his research and included many facts in the nine or ten page article. With the limitations of a magazine article, I'm sure he had to edit out many stories and some details, but he kept in the most important part, in his words, the essence of Tobin and what was in my opinion probably the truest impression of Tobin's motivation and will to climb as he did. I will always be grateful to Rick, and to such writers and friends of Tobin's who have worked to honor him in their way.

On behalf of myself and the Sorenson Family,
Thank you Rick,
Job well done,

-Tim Sorenson

Bldrjac

Ice climber

Boulder

Feb 16, 2015 - 07:14pm PT

Rick, a fabulous article! Loved reading it, and connecting some of the dots that Jack had shared with me over the years.
Tim, I'm so glad you have that! What a gift after all this time, to know that your brother's legacy has lived on, and touched so many. I carry the picture you sent me/Rick of Jack that Tobin had..........the strange circle of life that connects us all together.
Best,
pam

Brian in SLC

Social climber

Salt Lake City, UT

Feb 16, 2015 - 08:12pm PT

Great article! Great thread...!

crunch

Social climber

Feb 16, 2015 - 08:29pm PT

Great article with some excellent (frightening!) photos, a lot of history, and incisive analysis, both of the man and of the era.

Tobin actually comes off sounding a bit like Layton Kor, That same drive to go upward, the uncanny strength and skill just when things are most dire (was this an intuitive ability to assess what's coming up or maybe sheer luck?), the same big grin and politeness.

I'm from UK, lost a number of UK friends in the Alps about the same time, in part because they had a similar attitude. Still unsure what too make of all those deaths, that attitude. I had the same cocky attitude, back then. I had some nasty initial experiences on ice due to stupidity and carelessness and swore off it. some of my friends, better climbers all, better people, are long gone. This article helps a bit, explains things a bit more clearly. Some of the same things were going on on both side of the pond at the same time.

Tobin? One can wonder what might been have been had he survived...We can't know, but now we can better understand his brief life.

Thanks Rick.

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

Feb 17, 2015 - 11:29am PT

Finally got around to buying this issue and reading Rick's great article. You've got a talent for writing, Rick. Pretty good subject matter, too. Sheesh, that boy was incredible.

SteveW

Trad climber

The state of confusion

Feb 17, 2015 - 06:48pm PT

I'd say Rick's pretty incredible too. . .

hashbro

Trad climber

Mental Physics........

Feb 21, 2015 - 10:25pm PT

Ricky, thanks for dredging up the vast memories of the great summer of 77.'

You so effectively captured Tobin's creative essence, which reminded me of the lessons we all learned from folks like him. As you described, Tobin taught us the power of seizing the moment, goal setting and surmounting fear (all in the context of the BOLD lead). You happen to also be a very good writer as well.

Rick A

climber

Boulder, Colorado

Feb 25, 2015 - 08:22am PT

Thanks again to all for your comments on the article.

A nice touch was that the editors is that two articles about Hermann Buhl immediately follow mine. The first is a touching piece by one by Buhl’s daughters, recounting the effect on her life of losing her father at five years old.

The second is a brief summary of Buhl’s climbing career, very nicely done by Matt Samet. This is an artful juxtaposition by the editors. Early in the article, I mention the influence that library books about the alps had in inspiring our group in the early seventies; it is really what drew us to want to climb there. Buhl's The Lonely Challenge was a favorite and I used a couple of quotes from that book.

So for those who have not read the Lonely Challenge and are not that familiar with Buhl (only person to have made two first ascents of eight thousand meter peaks and the only person to have soloed a first ascent), the two articles are a great summary of the man and his climbs.

Steve-I never knew Kor, so it is interesting to hear you describe him as smiling and polite. From some accounts, he sometimes seems intimidating and somewhat humorless. But there are similarities that also had struck me with respect to the Eiger: both Kor and Sorenson used their Yosemite aid climbing experience to good effect on the Eiger. It seems from my readings that Kor’s aid climbing expertise was one of the keys to unlocking the Harlin route. Similarly, it was Tobin’s aid climbing ability--including a seven-hour aid and mixed lead on the first rock band-- that was the critical lead of Tobin and MacIntyre’s alpine style repeat.

And as you point out, both had an overwhelming inner drive to achieve climbing goals that is very rare, indeed.

johntp

Trad climber

socal

Mar 27, 2015 - 07:37am PT

Got my copy the other day from my renewed subscription. Thanks Rick for the read; a fine piece of writing.

Craig Fry

Trad climber

So Cal.

Mar 27, 2015 - 07:48am PT

Super great article Ricky

A little bird told me that there will be an interesting article about some climb in Joshua Tree in an upcoming issue of Alpinist.
That will be a must Read!

Jefe'

Boulder climber

Bishop

Mar 27, 2015 - 08:10am PT

Jefe'

Boulder climber

Bishop

Mar 27, 2015 - 08:11am PT

Off White

climber

Tenino, WA

Mar 27, 2015 - 01:51pm PT

I bought this issue just because it was on the rack at the grocery store and I wanted to encourage them. Imagine my delight at finding Rick's article, as So Cal boys just a few years behind, Tobin was the stuff of legend. Well, Rick too for that matter...

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber

extraordinaire

Mar 27, 2015 - 11:48pm PT

Bushman

Social climber

Elk Grove, California

Mar 28, 2015 - 08:11am PT

I remember watching Tobin attempt Paisano Overhang one time, not sure if it was during this photo. After several tries and falls he crawled up on the ledge, curled into a fetal position, and just stayed that way for awhile. He was so determined, that failure was too bitter a pill for him to swallow. I was climbing about 5.8 or 5.9 around then so I could not imagine what it took to hold ones self in an off sized fist crack while flipping the body around to pass the lip on the overhang. 5.12 was always in the realm of the impossible for me.

Rick A

climber

Boulder, Colorado

Apr 4, 2015 - 08:10am PT

Those are some gems, Jeff and Tim!

The second left ski track photo shows the usual Tobin strategy of full commitment: crank the right foot up high, so you have no choice but to extend on it or fall off trying.

And his despair in failing on Paisano Overhang is very telling, too.

The PO was a climb seemingly designed specifically for the teenage John Long, requiring immense strength, massive hands, and a mindset that anything was possible.

Rick A

climber

Boulder, Colorado

May 8, 2015 - 11:02am PT

One route I described in the article was a first ascent by Gordon Smith and Tobin on the West Face of the Aiguille du Plan, to the right of the Grand West Couloir.

Alpinist had a note about the Grand West in 2008 and described a modern ascent of that route:

The French alpinists, Thomas Faucheur and Didier Jourdain, have made a rare winter repeat of the Grand West Couloir on the west face of the Aiguille du Plan (3673m), Mont Blanc Massif. First climbed from December 10-14, 1975 by Patrick Gabarrou (who else?) and Jean-Marie Picard-Deyme, this 700-meter line up the thin chimney-gully system immediately right of the Central Pillar Direct (TD-, 5.8, 700m, Brown-Patey, 1963) is seriously exposed to stonefall and features considerable quantities of either bare or icy rock.

I recently found an old slide of the West Face of the Aiguille Du Plan that I took from the Midi telepherique back in 1977.

I’ve never been sure about the exact line of the Smith/Sorenson. So maybe Gordon or someone with knowledge can draw it in here, so modern climbers can locate it and perhaps give it a go. I is uncertain whether it has ever had a second ascent.

Here is Gordon's colorful description of the crux, which I quoted in the article:

Horrific. A vertical rock corner, sporting an evil off width crack, encased in ice and verglass and topped by a large roof dripping icicles. Tobin led it, for it was his turn and he never was one to shy away from a challenge, with all the histrionic and noisy brilliance that I later came to expect from him.

steve shea

climber

May 8, 2015 - 02:45pm PT

I think this is it, not sure. I looked at it with Gordon in '77 and was going to do it with him. The line above is the one he had wanted to do. Things got in the way, weather, and the meter ran out on my plane ticket. I have a really good photo in my archives but I never seem to find the time to sort, scan and post. I have a lot of slides, too many.

My photos are a different aspect, more from the west and underneath. From the Plan de l'Aiguilles so not certain on any of this.

johntp

Trad climber

socal

May 10, 2015 - 04:07pm PT

I had no idea of Tobin's alpine accomplishments. The sh!t he pulled off in the Alps and Canadia is astounding.

Largo

Sport climber

The Big Wide Open Face

Oct 5, 2015 - 05:04pm PT

I'd love to read that article on Tobin if I could find out where it was??
JL

Wee Jock

climber

Mar 2, 2016 - 12:55am PT

Hey Accomazzo
Just saw this thread. The route Tobin and I did started at the same spot as the Gab/picard-deyme route, stepped right onto a rock slab. Up the slab and directly up the goulotte above - the one just to the right of the Gab goulotte. At the top we climbed straight up the headwall - There was an obvious crack line straight above the goulotte line. Where it ended we moved 2 metres right to another (offwidth) crack. This led to a large overhang we turned on the left to finish directly below the summit pimple of the plan.
Essentially a superdirect route (like the route we did on the Jorasses) just right of the Gab route. About the same difficulty and quality as the Gab.

How ya doin, snowboarder?
Gordon (wee jock)

Rick A

climber

Boulder, Colorado

Mar 4, 2016 - 04:35pm PT

Gordon,

Hope you were battened down during the latest storms out your way.

Here is a post to an ascent of the Gabarrou/Jean-Marie Picard-Deyme route on the west face in 2011 by Jonathan Griffith and Will Sim.

http://willsim.blogspot.com/2011/02/west-face-direct-aguille-du-plan.html

It has a good diagram of where the route goes and some other photos as well.

If I understand it, it looks like your route is the super-direct way, since it goes right up the pyramid rock structure near the summit, not around to he left like the Gab. Nice line!

Been out on the board a bit this winter, good fun. Here's me last week.