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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
Birdbeak
Big Wall climber
Keene, N.H. 03431
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 31, 2015 - 09:58am PT
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Getting ready to for a trip in April to Yosemity and climbing Zodiac . When I look at the A3gear list on Super Topo it's different than the A3 gear list in Yosemity Big Wall book . Which gear list should I go bye any thoughts ? The list in the book is more extensive than online and was wondering if I could get away with the gear list online to save weight in gear . Planning on doing it hammer less if possible so don't want to carry a bunch of iron if I dont have to . Thanks for the input . Birdbeak
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jan 31, 2015 - 10:40am PT
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The Rack from Yosemite Bigwalls .com and the new guide book looks reasonable to me. Maybe less iron and I'd swap out a set of regular cams for another set of offsets.
I climbed it in 08, shortly after it had been cleaned. We hammered less than 4 times, and placed no heads. This was my first wall.
Looking forward to the TR.
Prod.
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jcory86
Big Wall climber
Grass Valley, CA
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Jan 31, 2015 - 11:41am PT
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bring way less iron than supertopo says. I did zod as my first el cap solo. it was very clean ( i did it in april) and i hammered 5 times. Three of the five i would not hammer now after more experience and having more offset cams. You'll enjoy the route a ton, its a beauty. Yos big wall rack is pretty spot on but as stated above^^^ extra offsets are great.
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Ryans
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Jan 31, 2015 - 05:06pm PT
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Here's what I brought back in June 2014:
Gear:
-3 camhooks were enough. 2 narrow, 1 wide
-1 talon, and 2 medium sized hooks were good (I had the Cassin hooks).
-Peckers: 1 small, 2 medium, 2 large. These helped me get through every tough section (hand placed)
-Sawed-off angles were unnecessary. I didn't use mine at all.
-Fixed copperheads seemed to be in good shape, none pulled on me. I did not bounce test them.
-Three #4 C4s and two #5 C4s were okay for pitch 14. Massive runouts for me because I walked them up.
-Hybrid aliens (red-yellow especially) and TCUs were incredible.
As you can see, I used a hybrid of the ST rack and the YBW rack. I didn't need the hammer and took no falls. Bring the Peckers! They were a godsend. An extra wide camhook wouldn't hurt either. I used a cheat stick (And Tom caught me! The only time I used it too...) on the Nipple to clip the bolt. A BD #6 or a set of balls will get you through this one move easy.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 31, 2015 - 05:15pm PT
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Bring a big cheater stick with a camera streaming to your I-phone. Some draws.. all ya need.
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jcory86
Big Wall climber
Grass Valley, CA
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Yo potatohead...the context implied was that the route itself was very clean, ie: no fixed gear. I hammered one LA and 4 beaks. I never claimed I climbed it clean. Two years later and I Hammertimed 3 beaks in a row on mescalito where c3F heads had blown. Havent grown humungoballs yet. Send me some totems, offset x4s, some BGH (ball growth hormone) and ill leave the hammer on the ground! ;)
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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You mention going hammerless but then about bringing pins. Technically hammerless means not bringing a hammer at all which would mean the only pins you bring you will hand place (actually often done on the black tower pitch). Most people try to do the route "clean" but always have the hammer in the bag with pins if necessary.
Conservative approach is to bring hammer and moderate selection of pins, copperheads just in case.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver, Colorado
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^ I'd bring a hammer. Some people said, this route is easy, everything was fixed. Then the next party finds that all the fixed gear is gone. Maybe the nipple will have fixed gear, maybe not. It's a steep route to try to bail off of.
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Valerio
climber
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If I were you I'd take...
classic A3 rack plus extra gear
synthetic clothes
rainfly
hammer
hand drill
a few rivets in case you miss them or you find broken some of them
a few heads plus chisels in case you find deadheads
a few pounds of extra gear will lead you to the wonder land.
ciao
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Thanks for that video BIOTCH! Rad inspiration on a rainy day here in Fresno.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Peanut ledge Jeff?
Prod.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Handful of sawed offs (larger ones mostly), one short medium lost arrow for hand placing on the nipple pitch, a few beaks, and probably some heads (I forget how many I clipped?).
More big cams than you want to carry for above the Peanut if you get freaked out easily being runout while leap frogging cams.
Awesome route.
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WBraun
climber
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Winter starts to melt, Horsetail should be raging.
Huh?
This was three weeks ago 2-8-2017
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Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
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I would go light on the iron. When we did it there was very little fixed gear on the route. The only pitch we hammered anything was 2 beaks on the black tower but I would take a couple sawed angles for hand placing. When we were up there there was almost no fixed gear on the nipple except for one fixed cam. leap frogging cam hooks was wild but I've talked to folks who said the nipple sometimes has a couple fixed arrows on the traverse. we didn't place any heads but I would take a couple just in case. its an awesome route, have fun!
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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
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