Discussion Topic |
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 24, 2015 - 03:51am PT
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Un Fina Línea de Locura VII, 5.12 A3~ A4 Second Ascent, Central Tower Torres del Paine!
One word....EPIC!
19 days capsule-style, we endured some knarly sh!t up there.
16 days 0 degrees Celsius
Planned food for 15 days
Route fell off while on it,
Pushed through some of the worst Patagonian storms of season,
A pitch a day in blizzard conditions,
Mild frost nip on the toes,
a week later they are still numb
Didn't free the the route, but gave it hell!
"Ned" as he is called....wanted to kill us!
One of the pretties 600ft dihedrals We have seen.
Beaks, Wafer thins, tied off tipped baby angles, micro brassy n' some hope and wishin'
We were being buried alive.
Summit or bust!
Picked up and dropped by the "Patagonian Tempest"
....5 times!
"Rock N' Roll!" As our new Basque friends would say.
2AM... First morning we had seen stars
1500ft full board push.
Splitter climbing!
Golden granite
Bloody paws
Cumbre!
A huge thanks to the American Alpine Club
And the Live Your Dream Grant
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 04:09am PT
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Should of bought insulated boots!
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 05:01am PT
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Just to get a can of Gas!
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 07:22am PT
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 07:29am PT
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Jan 24, 2015 - 07:30am PT
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Splitter!
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 07:41am PT
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DaveT.
Big Wall climber
Mammoth Lakes
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Jan 24, 2015 - 07:43am PT
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Awesome, so sick! Well done amigos.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 07:46am PT
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Hey Dave.., I got a plan if you still big wall? ;)
Congrats on the new casa by the way.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 24, 2015 - 07:49am PT
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Awesome.
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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Jan 24, 2015 - 07:50am PT
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excited to see this written up in more detail in something like the AAJ
way to send!
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 07:59am PT
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Amy has the whole trip coming soon... From journal entries while climbing the wall. But...we left them in the tent.
Lots of time storm bound!
So, We head back for the South Tower.... Then when we get out, she'll start writing. She is a far better author then I. Thanks for all the support, more pictures to come.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Jan 24, 2015 - 08:13am PT
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way to send guys, ggod luck completing the trifecta, steve
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Bad Climber
climber
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Jan 24, 2015 - 08:41am PT
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Truly fantastic, you two! An amazing achievement. Looking forward to the entire narrative. Be safe.
No doubt we'll run into you again in Lone Pine.
BAd
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 24, 2015 - 08:46am PT
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"looks fun" says a regular human, who enjoys a warm bed and wifi. Glad you guys had an awesome experience, y'all deserve it!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jan 24, 2015 - 09:05am PT
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Wow. Amazing. Can't wait to read the extended version!
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MtnDeb
Mountain climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 24, 2015 - 09:22am PT
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VERY impressive! I am so tickled for you both! Hope your toes revive themselves soon. Love you two little bad asses ~
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 09:28am PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 24, 2015 - 10:05am PT
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Major congrats! That looked full value, to put it mildly. That place sucks, weather wise. ;-)
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ruppell
climber
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Jan 24, 2015 - 10:24am PT
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EPIC. Nice job bro.
It's been 60 and sunny all "winter" here. If you and Amy need a warm shower or ten when you get back let me know. Stay safe and keep sending.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 24, 2015 - 10:37am PT
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Rack 'N Roll!
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rincon
Trad climber
Coarsegold
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Jan 24, 2015 - 10:59am PT
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Wonder what the story of that tat is? Looks like it's been hanging there for a long time.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 11:25am PT
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We cut down, about 1500feet of abandoned rope from the first ascensionist. That chunk strictly speaking has a nice story.... It was an A3 lead above, pushing and bumping the frozen "squid" we came to call it. Finished the pitch... Amy jummared up to haul, I rapped down to clean the pins and cut the trash rope. Amy had tied it off to the anchor so we wouldn't lose it. A slice with the knife sent it flying down the dihedral. A snap of the rope sent it screaming towards our portaledge 400 feet below. A terrible drumb sound and a curious question of "what was that?" From above. Direct shot! Sadly that heap of trash got away!
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krahmes
Social climber
Stumptown
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Jan 24, 2015 - 12:52pm PT
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Outstanding. Tend to those feet.
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Jay Hack
Trad climber
Detroit, Michigan
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Jan 24, 2015 - 03:48pm PT
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Awesome! Fantastic looking climb and adventure!!!!!
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jan 24, 2015 - 04:52pm PT
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Thanks for sharing and well done!
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jan 24, 2015 - 05:09pm PT
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Congratulations for yet another fine adventure. Nice work!
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2015 - 07:36am PT
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Thanks guys. Ames is super excited, to hear how pumped you guys are! Her writings our pretty wild, so I think you'll enjoy! Good to hear from everyone, Schneider we got some work to do here.., I'll fill you in, Ruppel- thanks man a fat shower can never be beat... The g,acier river her is cold! Dave T. you rock homie! Krahms... When you comeing to visit lone pine?...miss yah! Midendorf...you are the F'N' Man!....
Will get those writings up...soon! Head In tomorrow for the south tower seems like one sunny, no wind day on the 29th.
Here's some pics!
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver, Colorado
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Jan 25, 2015 - 08:22am PT
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Wow, serious undertaking, and beautiful pictures. Would love to check it out for myself someday but it looks too cold. (and scary)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jan 25, 2015 - 11:36am PT
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OUT-FREAKING-RAGEOUS!!!!
Now THAT is a Grade VII! For realZ!
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jan 25, 2015 - 12:07pm PT
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RIGHTEOUS! Glad to see you two taking it to eleven as always.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2015 - 12:16pm PT
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Marty! Hey I got the magazine article you sent but lost the envelope with your address. PM me with your address.
Thanks Marty .
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
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Jan 25, 2015 - 07:13pm PT
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Congrats Myles and Amy. WAY proud!
Thanks for posting up, was wondering how you were doing down there.
You were CRUSHING it! Damn you two are so hard.
Can't wait for Amy's reports later down the road. Must have been surreal 19 days up there.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 25, 2015 - 08:07pm PT
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Well done! Can't wait to see the big report, and good luck with the weather!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 25, 2015 - 08:25pm PT
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Way to send!
But do-HUDE! Get some frickin' insulated boots! Sheesh.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jan 25, 2015 - 11:06pm PT
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Pretty real deal. Ain't like a cozy summer night under the stars in Yosemite Valley!
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jan 26, 2015 - 05:50am PT
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M & A!!
UMMAGUMMA!!!!!
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Under Achiever
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Jan 26, 2015 - 06:31am PT
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Pura locura, de clase mundial!
Cinco de cinco Alpen-trompetas!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 26, 2015 - 08:20am PT
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Whoa! Bring the goods!
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Fish Finder
Social climber
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Jan 27, 2015 - 01:45pm PT
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Very Nice!!!!!!!
Hope to hear all about and see you soon!!!!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jan 27, 2015 - 02:59pm PT
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WHOA! Way to go you two! Miles, you better hold on to that woman cause there aren't many like her. Best of luck on the next attempt too!
Let us know when the next slide show is cause I am not going to miss it.
Jan McCollum
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Jan 27, 2015 - 05:36pm PT
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Way to go Myles - looks like an amazing route. Very impressive
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 27, 2015 - 05:58pm PT
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Great googlley moogalies,
what a great adventure!
I have waited in hopes to carry this back to be seen!
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 27, 2015 - 06:03pm PT
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YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA Doggy! Keep it the hell up you two!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 28, 2015 - 01:27pm PT
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OUTSTANDING....
Can't wait for the slide show.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Jan 28, 2015 - 02:19pm PT
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congrats Amy and Myles - can't wait for the full story
looks and sounds heroic!
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moacman
Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
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Jan 28, 2015 - 02:50pm PT
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Way to go....No paine no gain...
Stevo
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2015 - 07:09pm PT
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Alright!
South Tower!
The aste route. Pretty wild
8hrs 43 minutes.
Base to summit!
Will get photos up soon!
Open bivy, with Ames....
Couldn't find our cave.
Both headlamps dead. Patagonian winds are cold!
Trifecta...... Almost complete!?
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Dario Arancibia Labarca
Big Wall climber
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Hello,
My name is Dario Arancibia, a chilean climber.
In 1995 we did the second ascent of “Una Fina Linea de Locura” reaching until the secondary Summit (were many climbers finish the “Bonington-Willans “route). We were two climbers Carlos Fuentes Parra (QEPD) and I.
The effort to climb this route begin at the end of 1994 with climbers from Club Alemán Andino; Juan Sebastián Montes, Andrés “Chili Dog” Zegers, Soames Flowerree, and José Nicolás Vélez. Finally they left the climb at the end of this year.
Juan Sebastian Montes returned with us (Carlos and I) in summer 1995 to finish the route. At that year, the climb was did using fix lines.
All the best ... y Buenas Escaladas
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Bump for the real deal!!!!!
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jfailing
Trad climber
PDX, North Slope, The Open Road
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Hellz yes you two! Getting AFTER IT!
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stone free
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Amy and Myles ARE bad ass! And, they also retrieved hundreds of feet of old ratty fixed line. Thanks for your community service, you two!
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Neil Chelton
climber
Bouldering your girlfriend
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Feb 15, 2015 - 10:46am PT
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Outrageous send guys! Summit views look incredible..
Inspirational stuff.
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| Messages 1 - 55 of total 55 in this topic |
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