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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 14, 2015 - 05:24pm PT
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It will be interesting to see where it goes from here...
How long till it gets a second , how long till IAD ?
Better start doing some pull ups.
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Sula
Trad climber
Pennsylvania
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Jan 14, 2015 - 05:35pm PT
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Very hard to say, but seconds usually come sooner and go quicker than expected. I'm guessing the idea might soon be percolating in the brain of a certain long-necked Czech dude.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 14, 2015 - 05:35pm PT
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Some twenty three year old lad bent on recognition is polishing His/her Lance right now...
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 14, 2015 - 05:38pm PT
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^ I hope so
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 14, 2015 - 05:40pm PT
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Doubt he is interested. His buddies did good. Plus he isn't quite as good a climber at that level.
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coolrockclimberguy69
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 05:42pm PT
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2nd in 2018, probably by a couple of unknown Euros, probably not alpine-style tho
IAD in 2043, by someone who, at this very moment, has a poopy diaper.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 14, 2015 - 05:44pm PT
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I see Alpinist is calling it a VII. Thought that by the book (Deuce) you couldn't have a VII in anywhere as easy access as El Cap? Wilderness like Baffin or Himalaya only?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 05:59pm PT
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how many free ascents on the Captain have had second ascents, period?
Especially the stuff Tommy has put up over the past decade and a half. Tommy has freed 4 routes which have not had second free ascents:
 Lurking Fear (2000, with Beth Rodden)
West Buttress (2003, with Beth Rodden)
Dihedral Wall (2004)
Magic Mushroom (2008, with Justen Sjong) (except for one repeat by Tommy)
Tommy freed 1 route, which was repeated recently:
The Shaft (2001, with Nick Sagar), repeated in 2014 by Tobias Wolf and Thomas Herring, and also by Alex Honnold
Tommy did the second free ascent of 1 route, which has not been freed since:
Zodiac (2003)
Tommy did the second free ascent of 2 routes, which were repeated recently:
El Corazon (2007, with Beth Rodden), repeated in 2013 by Tobias Wolf and Stephan Isensee
The Nose (2005, with Beth Rodden), repeated in 2014 by Jorg Verhoeven
Left out are routes with several repeats, such as Tommy's first time free climbing El Cap - Salathe' Wall (1999)
http://web.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/longhf.htm
Current hardest El Cap free routes by pitch count:
Free Dawn: 7-8 5.14, 10 5.13
Magic Mushroom: 1 5.14, 10 5.13
Dihedral Wall: 1 5.14, 8 5.13
As for when it might get repeated (by someone other than Tommy and Kevin),
it will likely take somebody with skills, motivation, and time.
Maybe someone who hasn't freed El Cap before, but has these things, like Kevin.
Or maybe someone who has freed El Cap before, via one of the 5.14 routes, like Jorg Verhoeven, Beth Rodden, Justen Sjong, or Lynn Hill (I'm willing to count the Nose as 5.14).
There's also Tobias Wolf, who has done early repeats of several El Cap routes.
I'm going to guesstimate a 50% chance of it being done in the next 10 years.
So my forecast for how long it will likely take before it's repeated is 10 years.
How much time will it take them? Tommy worked on / tried it for 8 years, and Kevin for 6. http://web.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/longhf.htm#freedawn
Is someone likely to walk up and do it over 2 months?
That seems unlikely. Probably it will take attempts over more than one year. The narrow weather window (November - December) is also a factor in this.
And the flip side, what's next for Tommy (besides his planned Patagonia trip) and for Kevin?
Maybe after pulling down all their gear, relax for awhile. Think about it later.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 14, 2015 - 06:06pm PT
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Going out on a limb, I predict that it will NOT be done by Robbins & Lauria.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Jan 14, 2015 - 06:08pm PT
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TM plans to free solo it as soon as the lads get all their equipment off the wall ;-)
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Jan 14, 2015 - 06:17pm PT
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I believe that Caldwell and Honnold are off to Patagonia soon so I don't think Alex will be getting on the route for a while. Pretty cagey move by Caldwell if you ask me:-)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 14, 2015 - 09:17pm PT
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I'm guessing the idea might soon be percolating in the brain of a certain long-necked Czech dude.
Not enough bolts....heh....
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jan 14, 2015 - 09:27pm PT
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not too many folks climb 14d granite routes
Clint's summary up there is quite a statement about Tommy's skills
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 09:43pm PT
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This thread already?
Jesus, Man - give the armchairing a rest, wouldya?
Let the moment be.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 14, 2015 - 09:51pm PT
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A lot of that will be answered by it's legacy. Dihedral wall has yet seen a second but had none of the fanfare. Perhaps some unknown gnarly Euro decides to start rapping in and checking out cruxes? Could be 5 years, but I'd be surprised any earlier.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:27pm PT
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Proud proud ascent, so calm down Mister E. The rest of you, don't laugh at me, but is Chris Sharma still in the game for this type of climb? [no]
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:34pm PT
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My guess would be 3 decades. The time,effort and expense required is beyond most climbers and if one had time and such then they would most likely want to do their own free route. This climb is way ahead of its time...Like many of the Kohl aid routes which were done years ago and yet see little action these days.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:38pm PT
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The first ascent is just a few hours in the bag, and people that will never "free" climb the damn thing are already raising the bar.
It just seems silly to me, sorry if I offended.
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Guangzhou
Trad climber
Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:54pm PT
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No, silly would be asking about the first One Day Free Ascent.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:04pm PT
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Honestly don't think it will be done in a day free. Would be awesome if someone e can prove me wrong though.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:54pm PT
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Was that a typo?^^^^^^^^^
Or maybe a type-e? :0)
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jan 15, 2015 - 12:29am PT
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I suspect this will be more like Nose speed record attempts. Multiple goes by the same party attempting to 'clean up' their time and get all aspects of the ascent and logistics as optimized as possible.
Tommy and Kevin have essentially done that in the course of the epic prelude to this accomplishment. Now that they fully understand all the pitches, the climb as a whole, and the necessary logistics I would think they could at some point come back and shave a considerable amount of time off the whole affair. Particularly so if they don't have to worry about making a film of the whole thing or deal with all the media hoopla.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jan 15, 2015 - 04:58am PT
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Weather and skin are two big factors. Didn't Steve Schneider almost get frozen in Jan. on El Cap a few years ago?
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Jan 15, 2015 - 05:37am PT
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the huber brothers are up for it.
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whitemeat
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Jan 15, 2015 - 07:33am PT
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I am already projecting, give me a couple weeks!
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 15, 2015 - 08:14am PT
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No one will be able to do the second ascent.
It's too hard.
Yer all n00bs.
Tommy continued "That is the reason so many 5.14+ or even 5.15 climbers get shut down on El Cap.
It takes years to learn the technical hand and footwork you need on el cap."
Plus it takes 7 years ......
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 15, 2015 - 08:24am PT
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Another reason no will do it is Americans spend all their free time talking about it ......
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qinghai
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 15, 2015 - 08:25am PT
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Chris Sharma should get some love. "I had the opportunity to spend a few days with them on it last year and can personally attest to how overwhelmingly hard and long that route is." http://websta.me/n/chris_sharma?lang=en I vote for Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra La Dura Dura style three years from now. I'd imagine any 5.15c climber out there with a comfy portaledge and some (lots of) time could knock off the Dawn Wall.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 15, 2015 - 08:40am PT
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discussing rock climbing on a rock climbing forum
It's not a rock climbing forum.
It's "Climber's Forum"
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Captain...or Skully
climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
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Jan 15, 2015 - 01:28pm PT
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So who is the doofus that decided this is grade VII?
I'm still scratchin' my head on that one.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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Jan 15, 2015 - 02:07pm PT
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Jan 15, 2015 - 01:09pm PT
They haven't emailed you Werner? You must be a very good boy. Site managers say it's a forum for climbers to discuss.... ROCK CLIMBING!
Now, if that's really the case, we can all make our own decision.
You and WBraun might both be off the mark.
There is pretty good evidence it's a forum about comparing juicers.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Jan 15, 2015 - 02:08pm PT
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You'll see harder routes like an all free Shield first. Would you spend 6 years to be a second ascent when you could do a newer/harder line?
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jan 15, 2015 - 02:51pm PT
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This all sounds like post dramatic stress syndrome.....
Blah blah blah.....
Drama, the wheel of life.
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bergbryce
climber
East Bay, CA
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Jan 15, 2015 - 03:03pm PT
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Does anyone else think that this climb's sheer difficulty relegates it to museum status almost immediately and somewhat unfortunately?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 15, 2015 - 03:22pm PT
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I sure don't think that.
However...
It will be repeated. It will take the party less time.
This is the historical pattern of El Capitan routes.
Why should the DW be seen in any different light?
At one time, the Nose was IT.
Now...it's a training climb, a "vertical racetrack."
Difficulty seems to whet certain folks' appetites for adventure more than most of the crowd.
Uncertainty is something we ALL deal with on climbs because of the fickle finger of fate.
Good luck, then, to whoever has the nerve, the time, the support, and above all the confidence to try to bag the second free ascent.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver, Colorado
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Jan 15, 2015 - 03:37pm PT
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the huber brothers are up for it
That's what I was thinking. Those guys ruled just a couple years ago. Kommen Sie vorbei und zeigen uns wie es geht.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 15, 2015 - 03:38pm PT
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The Nose has 1 5.14a pitch? With majority of pitches on route fairly moderate. Compared to Dawn Wall it is a joke. Dude, some of the strongest climbers in the world project the Nose and still there were 4 people who have freed it. Dawn Wall has 7 5.14 pitches with two of them 5.14+ (likely the hardest imaginable granite climbing that could only be done under perfect conditions with the style and moves DIALED). I don't know why anyone with enough skill would want to put in years of work into projecting a second ascent. Why not go project some other possible FFA? It is possible, but in my opinion highly unlikely that it will happen any time soon.
It is a good subject to bullshit about on this forum though...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jan 15, 2015 - 03:59pm PT
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Placing my bet date for Second Ascent. 3 years. February ascent over 8 days, supported but capsule style with no fixed lines to the ground.
17 years for in-a-push 36-48hr ascent.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 15, 2015 - 04:00pm PT
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Good insights, Vitaliy. I respect your view, simply because your "learning curve" seems lots shorter than that of many others. You have done and will do more awesome things.
And you take it all seriously but have the happy soul of a man climbing within his boundaries, all the while extending them subtly.
Let's see...if you started projecting a free second ascent of the DW now, you might could finish it quicker than you think...like in only 4 years.
BOOM! :0)
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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Jan 15, 2015 - 05:05pm PT
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awesome to see climbing get some major media coverage unlike ever before. things pretty slow on the world front no doubt.
also awesome that it's positive coverage of a milestone achievement as opposed to the usual deaths on the stone.
agree though its unlikely to see a repeat any time soon, unless the fa team go back up to better their style. how about a day send swinging leads?
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jan 15, 2015 - 05:16pm PT
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Needs to git done again before the tick marks wash off...
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jan 15, 2015 - 05:45pm PT
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5.16 may be less work and more recognition.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Jan 15, 2015 - 06:04pm PT
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I think the new route has enormous and never-before-seen cred and cache; these are attached forever to it. Saints have passed our way or "Holy Mother Whore" as Roper used to quoth.
The motivation will eventually arise for our vanguard to go take a look, a few maybe even apply themselves. Some may even find that they can climb in the daylight and climb it in an endurable amount of time. All such stuff, the voodoo, can fall away given time and new insights occurring, at least from my observations over the last 52 years.
I think geniuses are abundant in our clan and it is just terrific to be a member of our community especially today. But if we look at Clint's comments, it might be one hell of a long time that we see the right people approach this particular journey, given how Tommy's other free El Cap routes are not becoming trade routes any time soon, either.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Jan 15, 2015 - 09:32pm PT
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Some europeans probably have a big hard-on for the 2nd ascent, but with so much press etc of the FA you would be an idiot to get on it very soon.
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duncan
climber
London, UK
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Jan 16, 2015 - 02:42am PT
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Dawn Wall will get a repeat when Ondra has got as far as he feels he can with pure difficulty sport climbing and wants to branch out a bit. Or perhaps when he just fancies a change of scenery from Spain in December. Not a question of if, just when. He’s at College at present, Economics - smart lad, so too busy in December and January for long trips. He’s currently focusing on comps. at least partially because this fits with studying. In two years he’ll be free to go further afield. He has already done a number of long sport routes in The Alps and Madagascar and the hard bits of Dawn Wall are sport climbing, sometimes a bit run-out (clearly doesn’t bother him), sometimes with fixed ‘trad.’ gear. He is on record as being interested in going to Yosemite and you can be sure it isn’t the fourth (sixth?) free ascent of The Nose he has in mind.
I don’t see Sharma or Megos or (insert generic Euro 9a+ limestone wad here) being so interested, Dawn Wall is not steep enough for them. Ondra is different. Technical fingery vertical wall climbing is totally up his street. The idea that Americans have a patent on it is laughable, this is not being disrespectful to Tommy and Kevin, it’s just reality. Consider Tough Enough in Madagascar probably previously the world’s hardest free wall and - shockingly - not in Yosemite! Vertical technical crimpy granite multi-pitch climbing, just like Dawn Wall. James McHaffie (Meltdown 9a, slate - ie off-vertical technical and crimpy), Sylvain Millet (Realization), Arnaud Petit and others put a lot of time and effort into it but none managed to free every pitch. Ondra climbed the whole thing ground-up in one day – onsighting all but one pitch (which he did second go). When he was 17 years old. He is a lot better now.
Ondra might struggle with the logistics if he jumped straight on it but my guess is that he will team up with an experienced Yosemite hand (Tommy even?) who will set up the portaledge and do the hauling for him. Tommy and Kevin had the vision and tenacity to see the line and work the sequences on the very technical traverse. The difficulty of Dawn Wall is mostly down to those pitches. The rest of the route is like another of Tommy’s 14as that typically take him a couple of weeks. Ondra will have the benefit of all the beta and also the key new knowledge that mid-Winter is the optimum time.
If he went up with an experienced wall-climber (I’d volunteer!) who looked after the vertical back-packing and prepared the route for him - placing the beaks etc. as on Kevin and Tommy’s ascent - I think he could climb it ground-up in six or seven days. Let’s say he will need a day each of the two 9a pitches. He’ll onsight most of the rest and perhaps take one day off to let his skin recover.
It will be great to see when it happens.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jan 16, 2015 - 03:13am PT
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Good insight, Kevin. Ron on Astroman, which was the first Yosemite big wall freed.
When we talk about a second, I think we are only talking about motivation, not skill. Or, said another way, climber's with the skill will have reasons to take a pass. I doubt the second ascent would generate the attention TC&KGFFADW has. And, sponsored climbers need to make a living: who was the second team to walk on the moon.
That said, when climbing is so ubiquitous that there are long lines on all routes, spending a week on the Dawn wall will be a fun romp for some 13 year old belayed by her mom.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 16, 2015 - 01:57pm PT
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I agree, it would be cool to see what happens if Ondra tries it.
The granite in Madagascar looks a lot rougher, so I'm not sure if it provides much of a comparison with the slick tinies on the Dike Traverse.
Even if Ondra can't get out in November/December for a few years, he could do a test drive on Freerider / Salathe'. It might even build some public / sponsor interest in him trying the Dawn later.
I think if he tried the Nose, his large frame might make the Great Roof and Changing Corners very tough.
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Psilocyborg
climber
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Jan 16, 2015 - 03:39pm PT
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you would be an idiot to get on it very soon.
And many of these idiots are watching all these news reports. I bet some jerk off gets on it and has a bad day
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Jan 16, 2015 - 03:49pm PT
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Technical fingery vertical wall climbing is totally up his street. The idea that Americans have a patent on it is laughable
Duncan - I haven't heard anyone say that Americans have a patent on fingery vertical climbing, just that DW climbing is somewhat specialized and would probably take some time to figure out.
Mostly people over here have been saying that Ondra is probably the best candidate for the second.
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Smokey
Trad climber
Colorado
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Jan 16, 2015 - 04:19pm PT
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TC will be back to lead every pitch in a 6-8 day (or less) push within the next 2-3 years.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 16, 2015 - 04:21pm PT
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Consider Tommy was climbing 14's and winning comps around when Ondra was born.
Yeah, Ondra or some other cool-today, gone-tomorrow Euro limestone wanker is going to come in and totally crush this thing.
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Jan 16, 2015 - 04:31pm PT
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I take it back Duncan, American arrogance has indeed raised its ugly head.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jan 16, 2015 - 07:32pm PT
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Where's Lynnie?????
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If
Trad climber
UK
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Jan 17, 2015 - 03:19am PT
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I'm European(uk) was planning an Onsite for my 50th birthday next year but figured that having watched all footage, videos and photos I guess it wouldn't be ethical really :/ dunno
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MAD BOLTER
Trad climber
CARLSBAD,NM
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Jan 17, 2015 - 05:26am PT
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CONGRATS TO TOMMIE AND KEVIN!!! AARE YOU GUYS GOING TO DO THE RAPPEL DOWN THAT WALL? TO MAKE IT A ROUND-TRIP
RAPPING IS A BIG LETDOWN!
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Valerio
climber
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Jan 17, 2015 - 06:01am PT
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I think there are few climbers just around the corner, able to climb DW but the question is... are they really motivated to do such a thing like that? Here we talk about on a big investment in money, time and why not the fingers's skin ;-). Moneys are not a problem ( sponsor? Daddy? Granny? ) however I think that the big problem for the modern climber is time... I think that nobody has so much time to spend in Yosemite to try on a second ascent even if on a big route like DW. I don't really see a climber do that unless he is not an American with many possibilities to stay in Yosemite for a lot of time... I think the Euro hasn't.
The reality is that Tommy and Kevin ( two super specialized Yosemite granite climbers ) have done a thing for the future... I'm agree with Chris about his 20+ years... maybe a few less
In any case...
time will tell, but for now Tommy and Kevin lead us on science fiction's territories.
My congratulations to both... climb 5.14 at night with head lamp on those small pockets... how did they watch their feet in the dark remains a mistery for me.
Valerio
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reason
Big Wall climber
Fort Collins Co
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Jan 22, 2015 - 10:05am PT
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I don't know. Can the Hubers read english, if so, they are my huckleberrys to give it a whirl.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jan 22, 2015 - 11:45am PT
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Second ascent will be TC again, just a bit faster
Otherwise, probability is so random, no guess besides "never' is very likely.
Because it takes very rare and specialized skills, combined with a LOT of time and practice, all for the privilege of a Second ascent. When has someone that good put that much time in a second ascent when it's not some short limestone route?
The answer is, look at the very few free ascents of the (once) more famous Nose which is piss easy compared to the Dawn Wall.
This route will stand the test of time until somebody like Ondra gets obsessed with it and there's no predicting that
It needs Skills+time+obsession
The only people that can waltz back and do it quick is Tommy or Kevin
Peace
Karl
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jan 22, 2015 - 12:14pm PT
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Two teen bouldering women from Fontainebleau are going to fly from Orleans Airport to SFO, get a rental car and drive to the Valley. On the morning of the next day, they'll climb half-way up the Dawn in one push - no falls and no hangs - to a pre-prepared bivy-base camp installed earlier in the week by their support team. On the second day, they'll ace all the pitches of the second half of the route, descend the East Ledges and have dinner at the Ahwahnee Hotel. The third day, they drive back to SFO, check in their rental car, and fly home to France. No problem (plus they'll down rate every pitch).
If you live a hundred more years, you'll see that scenario come true.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 22, 2015 - 12:23pm PT
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I agree, it would be cool to see what happens if Ondra tries it.
He'll be cited for breaking a noise ordinance.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jan 22, 2015 - 12:31pm PT
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"...Ondra or some other cool-today, gone-tomorrow Euro limestone wanker..."
If you're gonna go trolling, you need to know what size bait to put on your hook.
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scaredycat
Trad climber
Berkeley,CA
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Jan 22, 2015 - 05:27pm PT
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OK, I'll sacrifice myself to bottom of the page and throw more gasoline on the fire:
Yeah, it's not like any climbers from the east side of the Pond have schooled us recently on any bastions of US climbing, oh like off-width.
But seriously, I just want to see other really good climbers take a recon up there and see what they can do, good or bad I'll love it. If you pin me down, I'm guessing that someone other and TC will get 99% of it within a couple years. Doing it clean in one short (< 7 days) push, do I look like Carnac?
really: 8' traversing downward dyno?
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Jan 23, 2015 - 10:22am PT
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i think the dawn wall will be repeated in about 5 or 6 years by an american team.
i don't get why people think tommy would ever go back to the dawn wall. he just did it in freaking perfect style. i am sure he is way over it right now.
it won't be a euro team. this route takes too much time and dedication, and unless a euro wants to move here for a few years, it ain't gonna happen. the hubers are too old, and so is lynnie. plus, it won't be anybody short...i'm sure there are many height dependent moves up there. sharma's name came up, and yeah...he could probably do it if he can tear himself away from making the first ascents of the hardest single pitch climbs in the world over there in spain.
it's funny to me that who i see as the likeliest candidates for a second ascent have not even been mentioned on this thread. these are ethan pringle and jonathon siegrist. these two have both climbed 5.15(realization). ethan also has been climbing el cap as of late, and is a local. siegrist already has time logged on the dawn wall, climbing with tommy up there a few years ago.
the second ascent will be way easier than the first. they won't have to rapell all over the place for years to find where the line goes like tommy did. they will have video of every hard move, the beta is already in place. they will know to climb in winter, and at night. tommy can coach them on how to warm up for 5.14+ while in a portaledge camp. it is still going to be way hard, but nothing like the effort the fa team put in
steve schneider, oakland, ca
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eagle
Trad climber
new paltz, ny
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Jan 24, 2015 - 10:59am PT
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WHAT IF A CRUTIAL HOLD BROKE AND DEEMED THE CONTRIVED ROUTE IMPOSSIBLE
LIKE HARDING SAID...CLIMBING IS A WASTE OF TIME
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Jan 24, 2015 - 11:23am PT
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I keep getting the sense that this route was not put up to repeat, but put up just to show it could be done. Now everybody can go back to their day jobs.
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CF
climber
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Jan 24, 2015 - 12:49pm PT
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some one is up there today. they were on pitch 15 at 8am. couldnt tell if they made it through. by 11 they were below wino tower. looked like a photo shoot? someone kept rapping down then going up and the climbers were also going and coming down
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 24, 2015 - 01:11pm PT
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I saw a bit ago TC was there with a photog getting some shots in for rad marketing salez.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 14, 2016 - 05:27am PT
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The 'who's down' it' - they are coming to have a look,
they are going to go and LOOK
try a bit
then go have fun in the Great Ditch
They won't do it
Just won't
Will not spend the Time it takes
Will not Have the Ground and Wall crew that IT, The Dawn Wall, Takes
WOOT WOOT
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 14, 2016 - 05:33am PT
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As well Duncan, posted this above
Ive got to go yo!
Jury Duty?!HA HA all ARE INNocent compared to
Don't Name
Black Diamond Ambassador Adam Ondra admits that there’s one major hole in his climbing resume. “I’m a little ashamed that I haven’t been to Yosemite yet,” he told BD. But that’s about to change. Ondra rolled through our global headquarters in Salt Lake City on his way to the Valley and gave us the low-down on his Yosemite plans…
Image: Tommy Chandler
So you’re finally heading to Yosemite. Why now?
I’ve been thinking for years about going to Yosemite, and finally now is the right time. The last three years I was studying and I couldn’t really miss that much school in October and November, which is the season for the Valley. So, I just finished University and got my Bachelor’s Degree in Business Management, and I’m free and can go to Yosemite.
How long do you plan to spend in the Valley?
Well, definitely one month and a half… and then we’ll see how much I can climb.
Will you stay in Camp 4?
At least for certain periods, we will stay in Camp 4 to get the proper atmosphere. And when it gets cold, we’ll see.
Have you trained specifically for Yosemite?
Well, pretty much the only training that was Yosemite oriented was one day I went sandstone climbing in the Czech Republic and we climbed some offwidths, which was pretty cool. At first I sucked a lot, but by the last pitch, which was the hardest one, I found a little technique and was feeling more in control. For sure at the beginning I was using too much power.
Image: Chris Parker
Do you think your time spent climbing 5.15 granite sport routes in the Hanshelleren cave in Norway will translate to the walls of Yosemite?
No, not at all. I think it’s completely different. I don’t even think that the friction of the granite is very similar. The friction in Norway is just perfect. The friction in Yosemite and especially El Cap I imagine to be really slick with some sharp edges.
So, what are you psyched to try?
Well, the first serious route I’d like to try is the Nose (VI 5.14), and then the Salathé (VI 5.13b), and then the Dawn Wall (VI 5.14d). But for me, the really important route is the Salathé, and I’d like to try and onsight it in one day. So I think it would be wise to try something beforehand and the most classic route is the Nose, so why not?
Do you have any previous wall experience?
I’ve climbed multi-pitches in the Alps and Madagascar, but I don’t have that much experience with trad … like hand-jamming and finger-locking, but I hope I will learn.
Yuji Hirayama tried to onsight the Salathé in 1997. Did he give you any beta?
I did talk to Yuji [laughs]. He told me to do the headwall in two pitches, not one, and for an onsight it’s really tricky because you have to know where to extend the certain gear and stuff like this. And it would be bad to fail on my onsight due to rope-drag!
Image: Jan Novak
What would it mean to you to pull off the first onsight of El Cap?
I don’t really think about it that much. It’s just an amazing piece of rock and onsight is the best style… as long as you’re using ropes. It’s just obvious to go for such a legendary route onsight. But I’m definitely afraid of the Monster Offwidth.
Who are your climbing partners for this trip?
Well, we will see. The Nose I’m definitely going to climb with my Dad, and the other routes I think I’ll climb with a friend from the Czech Republic.
So you mentioned trying the Dawn Wall. What inspired you to attempt the world’s hardest big-wall?
The video by Big Up [Productions] “Progression.” Even before “Progression” was released, Brett Lowell was talking to me about this project. I was just super inspired and I loved it from the beginning. The style of climbing, the face climbing—you’re using a lot of thumbs and balancy moves—it didn’t look like your regular Yosemite climbing. Plus the consistency of the climb—you have to do so many hard pitches in a row. It’s so unique. You can’t find it anywhere else in the world.
Image: Tommy Chandler
What will be your strategy for the Dawn Wall?
We were considering how to start, whether just to go up and rappel and try the pitches from the top. But that could be frowned upon, so that’s why we decided to try to go ground up, at least to the crux pitches, and then if we have to, we’ll fix ropes, and work on the cruxes. And then go for the push.
Have you asked Tommy Caldwell for any beta?
I talked to Tommy a little bit. He gave me some tips, like where to set up base camp, the portaledges, where to fix the ropes, stuff like that. And about the shoes … that’s very crucial.
TC Pro’s?
I don’t know. I’ve never climbed with [La Sportiva] TC Pro’s but I just ordered them and tried them a little bit but I think it’s not a shoe for me. I’ll go with [La Sportiva] Katana Laces.
Do you think you’ll walk away with a send of the Dawn Wall?
I don’t want to be too ambitious since I’ve never been to Yosemite. I just want to try it. For me Yosemite is the only crag of historical importance where I haven’t been. That’s why I want to go there, and besides that, it looks so cool. Yosemite is radically different than anywhere else I’ve ever been and that’s why I want to go there. And if I was a little piece of the history, that would be cool, but let’s see…
—Adam Ondra
Stay tuned next week for an exclusive video of Ondra’s visit to SLC where he not only toured BD Headquarters but also cranked on some of the area’s most stout boulder problems.
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nopantsben
climber
europe
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Feb 16, 2017 - 10:56am PT
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right up to post #79: funniest thread on Supertopo!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Feb 16, 2017 - 11:20am PT
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Well. We got that wrong.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Feb 16, 2017 - 11:50am PT
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Surprisingly some people actually got that quite right, including the second post in the thread.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 16, 2017 - 02:35pm PT
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One of the more interesting and instructive threads on SuperTopo.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Feb 16, 2017 - 02:38pm PT
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Pretty funny, looking back, but who would have thought that Ondra would have thought it was a must-do?
I recall a recent report that most of the parties on El Cap were free climbers.
Times they are a changing. For the better. Yosemite is relevant again.
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BigB
Trad climber
Red Rock
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Feb 16, 2017 - 02:41pm PT
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the real question is, when's it going to get its first red point?
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Feb 16, 2017 - 08:49pm PT
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LOL funny thread. Duncan's got the crystal ball for sure. But really I guess you could have guessed that someone who can climb 15c and onsight 14d would not need 7 years to figure out a few pitches of 5.14.
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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Feb 17, 2017 - 07:55pm PT
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^^^^
on that note and as someone who spends/wastes? far too much time on this board i feel it is my duty to repost what i wrote on this board just before tommy and kevin freed the dawn wall two years ago... i wasn't bang on with the date, but i still feel it is important to take this opportunity for the following short victory lap... so with apologies for my flagrant lack of modesty and from the all the pitches of the dawn wall have now gone free thread:
and so let's also stop being such a bunch of old farts that we think this is going to take 20 or 30 years to repeat.
i'll place good money that this is repeated [in better style] within five to ten years.
kids in the current avant garde are on sighting 14c.
if these guys succeed, the most difficult part of this climb will have already been done for anybody that follows.
because, what is f*#king unbelievable is that these guys found a free climbable path up this wall.
and so assuming they are able to prove that it is possible, the press that this route has received will have given it the biggest bulls eye on the planet.
what up and comer isn't going to put a big ole poster on his wall and dream of making his mark by being the second?
sorry old timers... time moved on... whether we were ready or not.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Feb 17, 2017 - 07:57pm PT
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would the stoke/anti-stoke ratio be sufficiently high that a man with a hammer might open up an awesome new 5.13- on the line? ---RJ
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| Messages 1 - 82 of total 82 in this topic |
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