The Chinese Puzzle Wall

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Messages 1 - 56 of total 56 in this topic

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 27, 2014 - 12:49pm PT

I've heard that there have been up to three attempts on this baby, which faces Slesse's east side from across the valley.

I know very little about the first two. One of them may have been by Beckey, but I don't know who his partners were for it, and he's sidestepped the question when I tried to ask him about it in the past.

It apparently saw one other attempt that I know nothing at all about except second- or third-hand mention that it happened.

I think both of these were aid climbing attempts.

The most recent attempt was by some strong Fraser Valley climbers and I am told they did free climbing up to 12- but bailed below the top of the wall due to large loose blocks.

Given that a "Chinese puzzle" is one of the ones where you slide tiles around, perhaps this loose block problem is endemic to the wall.

I would be interested in finding out more about the history of this feature. Post up if you know anything.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

Dec 27, 2014 - 12:51pm PT

wild looking! good questions.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Dec 27, 2014 - 01:06pm PT

the more relevant shot to answer the OP question would be of the bowl at the base of the face, and the runout from that bowl...

I'd guess the "fun" part is getting into the dark, peripheral rock, which looks like it's been exposed to erosion longer than the face, which was probably exposed relatively recently (in geological time), the over layer having fallen off.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2014 - 01:11pm PT

Here's a distance shot of the wall and environs for you Ed.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2014 - 01:13pm PT

And one more - looking up the gully at the base from a close helicopter fly by in spring a couple years back

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Dec 27, 2014 - 01:38pm PT

(in)famous phrase: "it doesn't look too bad"

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Dec 27, 2014 - 03:10pm PT

That looks like a proper wall right there.

Nobody has topped out an aid route yet?

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Dec 27, 2014 - 03:18pm PT

I think it's hilarious that Beckey wouldn't give you answers when you asked! Either he doesn't remember because it was a hundred years ago, or he's still saving his project there....HA!!

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2014 - 04:38pm PT

There's a comment in the Steve Must 1995 CAJ article "Rambles with Fred" which I'd guess is about the Chinese Puzzle.

Mark Maffe was likewise drawn into the fray as Fred spoke in vague terms about big, clean, untouched granite. We initially scouted out an impressive wall near the Chilliwack River valley, but it looked like a serious and demanding project. As I asked Fred about the slings and bolt stations a few pitches off the ground, he began to rave about a great climb that he hadn't finished [further east]

Studly

Trad climber

Dec 27, 2014 - 05:37pm PT

That looks kind of sketchy!

looks easy from here

climber

Ben Lomond, CA

Dec 27, 2014 - 07:38pm PT

Beautiful, but terrifying. I think I'll scout my project from my chair for a bit. ;)

Todd Eastman

climber

Bellingham, WA

Dec 27, 2014 - 07:45pm PT

... calling Bruce Kay, please report for duty...

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber

extraordinaire

Dec 27, 2014 - 10:23pm PT

That shadowed gash at the base (right side) would be my first choice, trending left to the summi.

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Dec 27, 2014 - 10:34pm PT

Geez, with such a casual approach and descent I'm surprised there aren't
eight routes on it. But, seriously, it doesn't look more than a 1000' to me.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2014 - 04:37pm PT

Didn't Guy Edwards get on it once?

Not that I know of.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Dec 28, 2014 - 08:11pm PT

Here's another shot, showing approach terrain in 2007.
Obviously it's steep, and the approach looks like a hassle with the bushwhacking
and then hauling your stuff up the gully.

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Dec 29, 2014 - 12:23am PT

Hell, there's an old logging road, let's go!!

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2014 - 10:44am PT

In Clint's pic you can see the sinuous gully at far left and obvious forested ramp that was used on the FA to approach the West Buttress of North Illusion.

Continuing on this ramp and then dropping in by rappel to the base of the CPW would seem to be one option if the direct gully approach to the base fizzles. But given that people have made it to the base before, presumably the direct gully or forest to the right are "good enough" options.

Mark MAFFE

climber

all the world's a climb

Aug 15, 2016 - 02:27am PT

Wow, amazing to see this...the memories come flooding back. This was one of many memorable times I was "drawn into the fray" with Fred and the late Steve Must during the early 90's. I first met Fred and Steve in China in 92 and I think this was about 2 years later. Long story short, our attempt was not successful and unlike many times where Fred had made the call to back down off of a first ascent attempt with me, this time I felt very little sense of letdown or unfulfillment. That thing was spooky...After the steep approach up through the trees with bear scat everywhere, we arrived at the base and were awestruck by how steep it was. Steve and I knew knew it would be really hard and felt we had the ability....but Fred made the common sense call that it was too "dangerously committing" and he was right. Most of the wall is overhanging, especially the first section and full of huge, continuous flakes that looked like they were just waiting to dislodge. The climbing lingo at the time "double grand piano sized" did not do those things justice. It was like looking up at a giant bookshelf leaning over us, overstuffed with giant books about to come toppling out, or pieces of a huge puzzle standing up on its side, loosely held together, somehow defying gravity's pull. The wall was unnamed at the time but whoever came up with "Chinese puzzle" hit the nail on the head.
The only sign we saw of other climbers was some slings about 2 rope lengths up and Fred's theory was they were left by Peter Croft on an earlier attempt. I asked Peter about this a few years ago but had a tough time referencing much about the area so he was unsure if we were talking about the same thing. Like most of my adventures with Fred, I was not paying much attention to the details. He was the man with the plan and I was just hanging on during the constant wild ride that was climbing and traveling with him. I find myself reflecting on the gut busting laughs we had as much, if not more than exhilarating moments on the rocks, and I did see Fred do truly amazing feats on the sharp end more than once.
Cool to hear others have done it now...very bold stuff requiring serious cojones no doubt. Maybe it's not as loose as it looked? I don't see many more puzzle pieces in the talus than I did 20 odd years ago:-)

MH2

Boulder climber

Andy Cairns

Aug 15, 2016 - 08:00pm PT

Thanks for the post above.

neebee

Social climber

calif/texas

Aug 15, 2016 - 08:42pm PT

hey there say, Oplopanax...

man oh man! thanks for the great piece of ROCK PIC here...

never knew or heard of this... hee hee, but then, i
know all that i DO know, from the taco, here... :)

thanks for sharing and asking everyone about this...

say, wow, clint, thanks for the great 'far view' here...

shows just what i needed to see, to learn more...
thank you...

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Aug 15, 2016 - 08:49pm PT

Thanks for the post above.

I'll second that.

And add a request for more from you. There are quite a few of us here on Supertopo who have spent time in the Rexford/Slesse area, and it would be great to hear more stories.

micro_marc

Gym climber

Squamish

Aug 21, 2016 - 09:06pm PT

Brette Harrington and I topped out the wall after spending a total of eight days working on our new line, sleeping on the porta ledge . It would have gone in a day or two as an aid route (A2) but we put in the time to clean and prepare all the pitches and free the route. 11 pitches, 5.12c. Reminiscent of University Wall in Squamish, although with less unusual chimney climbing, and more straight endurance crack climbing and more sustained overall. I am pleased that we established the line ground up and without the use of any fixed lines, which seems less and less frequent in Squamish these days,no doubt due to the general proximity of 'home' when climbing on the chief which this particular wall lack. It is very much like the NorthWalls although larger and featured in a way more similar to Index. A very gratifying experience overall.

I remember first seeing the wall 8 years ago, at the ages 15, en route to my first attempt at Slesse's NE buttress. Very cool to return and make the FA of the feature, no less to watch the pocket glacier slide in the process!

MH2

Boulder climber

Andy Cairns

Aug 21, 2016 - 09:13pm PT

Thanks for the info! Way to go.

micro_marc

Gym climber

Squamish

Aug 21, 2016 - 09:32pm PT

A couple photos. Of p2' and p5, both 12b.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

Aug 21, 2016 - 09:33pm PT

That works

climber

away from the ground

Aug 22, 2016 - 08:46am PT

That looks pretty legit.
Was there a lot of scrubbing to do despite the steepness?

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Aug 22, 2016 - 09:05am PT

thanks for the pics micro_marc

it is an awesome thing, the succession of climbing generations. Looking at the images of that wall an anxiety boiled up in my very center, thinking just how I might go about establishing a route, knowing that I had no answer to that. Being there would be overwhelming, and touching the rock electrifying. For me there would be no way to overcome even that, let alone control enough to start.

But successive generations of climbers have learned what they need to climb those climbs deemed by their predecessors as "impossible" or at least "impossible for me." I cannot touch 5.12 on most days, and those days are dwindling. So it is truly amazing to me, and gratifying, to see you all work out those problems that could only be a fantasy to me. Dream on!

Congrats on your ground up ascent, a proud style that I think we all aspire to, and especially when going to these great places.

Bill Noble

climber

Golden BC

Sep 11, 2016 - 09:15am PT

The complex wall easily visible from Slesse N.E.B. has drawn many an eyeball. Two attempts were made on the middle line (called The Warlock back then) in 1986 and 1987 by Nick Jones (the opal, silver surfer, etc.), Kirt Sellers (mercy street, bong king, etc.) and Bill Noble. All bolts by hand and hammer. It felt quite remote at the time.

We did not spend any time prepping the wall...in fact I don't think the thought even passed through our minds...it was the eighties remember. Sport climbing was in embryo and what's all this about plastic holds and indoor climbing? Nevah!! My how times have changed. Plenty of great lines left to do on this captivating aesthetic alpine feature. Get out your crow bars, bolt guns and fly at'er.

A curious small world aside is that Marc-Andre (and Brett Harrington) also recently skied the N.E. Couloir on Lady Peak first ascended by Sellers, Noble and Peter Cooper. Quit messing with our old 80's lines Marc-Andre LeClerc!

climber

away from the ground

Oct 10, 2016 - 07:44pm PT

Bump

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2016 - 10:42am PT

Hey Bill, I missed your reply in September. Thanks for updating us with the history.

Here's some pics of another Jones/Sellars local feature still waiting for a second ascent... the Nesakwatch Notch!

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2016 - 10:46am PT

And thanks for confirming that it was you and Steve Must on the Beckey exploration, Mark!

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2016 - 10:58am PT

One more, CPW in winter (I took this on a flight with John Scurlock in 2008). Too steep to hold snow!

Bill Noble

climber

Golden BC

Dec 20, 2016 - 07:51pm PT

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Dec 20, 2016 - 07:54pm PT

The bitter descent.

Don't know which is who in that last photo, but is the guy on the left wearing the Chinese Puzzle Jacket?

Bill Noble

climber

Golden BC

Dec 20, 2016 - 07:55pm PT

Bill Noble

climber

Golden BC

Dec 20, 2016 - 07:57pm PT

The bitter descent photo....Kirt Sellers on the left sporting his favourite big wall shirt. Nick Jones on the right.

micro_marc

Gym climber

Squamish

Dec 21, 2016 - 12:41pm PT

Thanks for sharing the photos Bill. It appears that your chosen line is to the right of where we climbed.

I led a couple of trickier pitches to outflank loose blocks which were later trundled on rappel to open the free climbing.

So many routes to do on this wall.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2016 - 01:00pm PT

Thanks for sharing the pics Bill!

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Dec 21, 2016 - 05:05pm PT

Great photos, Marc and Bill!
Bill's photos were "puzzling" at first, until I realized they were flipped right-to-left (a common problem when scanning slides).
Here's what I deciphered about where the routes go on Dru's original photo, from photos on this thread:
One of Bill's photos flipped back to the correct orientation:
http://gripped.com/news/chinese-puzzle-wall-in-b-c-pieced-together-in-hidden-dragon/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BMJ-wJ-AQMP/?taken-by=bretteharrington&hl=en (overlay of entire route on Dru's photo)

MH2

Boulder climber

Andy Cairns

Dec 21, 2016 - 05:37pm PT

Thanks, Clint.

Bill Noble

climber

Golden BC

Dec 22, 2016 - 07:30am PT

Yes, thanks for that Clint. Yup, just purchased a scanner and now my whole world is turned around. Heh! Mebe I'll post photos right way around? That blue line should go a little higher for sure. A "little" higher and to the right.....oh, now you're scratch'in it.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2016 - 10:30am PT

nice catch Clint.

Bill Noble

climber

Golden BC

Dec 23, 2016 - 02:12pm PT

Bill Noble

climber

Golden BC

Dec 23, 2016 - 02:13pm PT

Bill Noble

climber

Golden BC

Dec 23, 2016 - 02:14pm PT

Bill Noble

climber

Golden BC

Dec 23, 2016 - 02:16pm PT

Okay, so after conferring with the "last of the red hot lovers"...from the first belay ledge the traveled ground goes up the obvious corner, past the roofy section to a ledge just visible near the center of the photo. From the ledge Nick attempted to aid a tenuous thin vertical crack (A3+). We bailed. The following year ('87) he made about a half a pitch headway from the same ledge to be shut down by deteriorating rock (the belay being in the line of fire). There's a single bolt up there somewhere at the high point.

Bill Noble

climber

Golden BC

Dec 28, 2016 - 09:47am PT

Here's a couple of more beta photos from negatives recently found.

Bill Noble

climber

Golden BC

Dec 28, 2016 - 09:51am PT

Chinese Puzzle Wall right hand side.

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

Dec 28, 2016 - 10:27am PT

Love roofs, but this reminds me of Canon in that 'a-60x60x60-block-might-easily-be-gone-tomorrow' sort of way.

MH2

Boulder climber

Andy Cairns

Dec 28, 2016 - 10:48am PT

True, though Cannon is slapdash compared to this precision Production & Delivery facility.

Mark MAFFE

climber

all the world's a climb

Oct 24, 2017 - 02:09am PT

Nice job Micro_Marc! Looks like a radical line you guys took up that wall and with what looks like some very quality rock to boot!

I did find a good pic from that early attempt with Fred Beckey and Steve Must and will post...Crazy memories of Canadian jaunts with Fred in those days... I seem to remember the laugh attacks spurred on by Fred's shenanigans while on the road/approach days more than the actual climbing itself. One thing I will never forget is that awestruck feeling, blown away by the sight of some of the places he took us to, relatively unknown areas that no other climbers were talking about. There are many gems in the greater Western Canada area...

Mark MAFFE

climber

all the world's a climb

Oct 24, 2017 - 02:12am PT

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2017 - 01:44pm PT

Because it was never noted here in this thread, here is the full history of the CPW (from Brette's AAJ article, as compiled from here and other sources)

"The wall has had five known attempts. In 1986 and ’87, Nick Jones, Bill Noble, and Kirt Sellers made two unsuccessful ground-up attempts on a line near the middle of the wall they called the Warlock. Then, in 1994, Fred Beckey, Mark Maffe, and Steve Must tried to climb the wall, but were stymied after the first two pitches. In 2000, Michael Crapo and Ben Demenech got a few pitches up and bailed due to loose blocks. Finally, Tony McLane and Dan Tetzlaff made an attempt in 2008 but took a scary gear-ripping fall on pitch one and bailed."

The Crapo/Demenech attempt line was closer to the Jones/Noble/Sellers and had intended to pass by the "Roman helmet" feature in the middle of the wall (double roofs with column that looks vaguely like a gladiator helmet). Still not sure whereabouts McLane and Tetzlaff got to.