Discussion Topic |
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 25, 2014 - 02:27pm PT
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New man - new bike - new adventure :)
Hopping on a plane in a few days to Thailand. Exact itinerary is still a little up in the air but something like Thailand to Laos to China.... and on westward perhaps to Iran.
By the way, I've put on 30 lbs of weight since returning from my South American ride 6 months ago. Hopefully I'll lose a bit of that with my new journeys. :)
Bike is a Surly Troll, 38.5 lbs naked. :) Built it myself including lacing up the wheels. Hopefully it will hold up.
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crankster
Trad climber
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Dec 25, 2014 - 02:54pm PT
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Send reports, rockermike. Safe travels.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Dec 25, 2014 - 02:56pm PT
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Well, 40 lb of bike will take 30 lb off the engine in a hurry! :-)
What are you using for a saddle?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dec 25, 2014 - 06:04pm PT
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What an adventure.
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thebravecowboy
climber
just banana-jam it
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Dec 25, 2014 - 06:12pm PT
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Rad dude! Keep us posted!
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
In What Time Zone Am I?
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Dec 25, 2014 - 06:28pm PT
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Can't wait for your trip reports.
Safe travels and what a beautiful bike!
Susan
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 25, 2014 - 06:29pm PT
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You crazy, man, but God speed and pass the TR ammo!
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couchmaster
climber
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Dec 26, 2014 - 01:10pm PT
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Damn -That's awesome Mike. May safe, interesting and fun journey's follow you the rest of your many days!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Dec 26, 2014 - 06:54pm PT
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YEEEEEAAAAAHHH!!!!!!!!
Keep us posted sir.
We got from Cambodia to Kunming and never had to camp. keep those bags light!
Wow. you're in for a big adventure.
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cuvvy
Sport climber
arkansas
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Dec 26, 2014 - 08:10pm PT
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Sounds like you have found a great way to really see the world. I enjoyed your last adventures pictures. Please post plenty of your new destinations.Thank you
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Dec 27, 2014 - 07:40pm PT
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I loved following your last adventure, looking forward to this one.
I'm glad there are people in this world as crazy as you are so I can enjoy this kind of stuff vicariously.
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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Dec 27, 2014 - 09:19pm PT
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woot!
rock on rockermike...
looking forward to the new round of dispatches from the field...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Dec 27, 2014 - 09:23pm PT
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when in doubt, pedal out.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 27, 2014 - 09:53pm PT
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Just curious, how are you planning on getting through Afghanistan?
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2014 - 11:15pm PT
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Afghanistan?
Well this is all theory at this point (like Piton Pete's famous armchair quarterbacks. :) ) But if I make it to the far west of China (Kashgar) I can go through Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, and Turkmenistan to get into Iran. But a lot of my route will depend on the recommendations of other cyclists I meet on the road. You can only figure out so much searching the internet.
A big obstacle at this point is that My China visa only allows 60 day entries at any one shot. So I have to peddle real fast (not my style) or find some way to leave the country to get new entry permits every 60 days, or perhaps take a train through a large part of western China (the Gobi desert) which would be a shame to miss. Its roughly 4000 road kilometers from Chengdu in central China, to Kashgar in the far west.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 28, 2014 - 11:21am PT
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Well, I assumed you are smart enough to do that. ;-)
If you pedaled through Yunnan you could go over the Burma Hump Rd into N Burma and then
through Assam and Bhutan to Tibet. It might be tough to pedal across Tibet to Kyrgyzstan in
60 days but I bet you could!
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NotThirsty
Boulder climber
Canaduh
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Dec 28, 2014 - 02:38pm PT
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keep us posted! i've done some sick climbs in TH and Burma. Can't even imagine what you're in for farther north.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2014 - 04:02pm PT
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Tami...yes Mongolia is another possible route for me. Also I may drop south into Burma either to re-up my China visa or cross over to north east India. Going into Sikhim/ Bhutan would be really cool. I'll have to look i to that.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Dec 28, 2014 - 05:21pm PT
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You better check on the Indian and Bhutanese visa situations. The Indian border with China is heavily militarized and requires a special permit in addition to an Indian visa. Bhutan wants everyone to be in a group and pay at least $100 a day. Burma is a better bet I'm pretty sure.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Dec 29, 2014 - 08:56am PT
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You are carpeting the dium out of this life. Thanks for sharing your stoke with us! Hopefully you can get some from here in case you hit any low points and want some encouragement in the future.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Dec 29, 2014 - 10:50am PT
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We lucked out with a 90-day Chinese visa- got it in Vientiane. Still ended up taking a bunch of transport to get through China, but we weren't really trying.
Some Canadian friends did your route, through Iran. They spent a lot of time in places like Dushanbe, waiting on visas. This may be unavoidable. Others report that Siberia is amazing and were doing it again, after biking through there once a few years back. At least Russia is one big country.
Have fun and post up once in awhile!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Dec 29, 2014 - 11:07am PT
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it is great mike.
i never thought to utilize my life
as an artistic medium.
what you're doing there on your bike
is outstanding, and clearly
does the gesture speak
of your immense vision, endurance,
and spiritual balance.
i extend to you heartfelt accolades.
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Majid_S
Mountain climber
Karkoekstan
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Dec 29, 2014 - 12:45pm PT
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Do you already have your visa for Iran ?
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Have fun!
I really enjoyed reading about your last adventure.
Erik
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
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Definitely take a detour around Afghanistan, the roads are too full of land mines for good biking. Also, expect to have to pay your way through border crossings in central asia.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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you are insane
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2015 - 11:50pm PT
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Well I've been in Bangkok a week and until late last night I still hadn't assembled my bike. ha Doing the tourist thing and thinking about which direction to head.... west to Burma, north to Laos or east to Cambodia. Anyway this morning I finally found the courage to hop on my bike and ride across town (sans bags). It really wasn't so bad... traffic is so clogged up I could pretty much keep up with the flow. But still a lot of trepidation about actually loading up and heading out into the countryside. I remember I felt the same way before crossing the boarder into Mexico... but even after 18 months on the road ( last two trips) here it is again. :)
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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You don't know where you're going…amazing spontaneity. Or indecision. You tell us. Thanks for post in up and keep 'em coming!
I was too gripped to ride out of Bangkok- trained it to the Cambodian border.
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gumbyclimber
climber
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Go straight to Angkor Wat! It's mind-blowing and an awesome place to ride a bike. Then head down to Phnom Penh; beautiful city and don't miss the S-21 prison and the Killing Fields. Then, head back up the Mekong though Stung Treng into Laos. The border region there is one of the coolest parts of SE Asia; dolphins and shlt.
Are you American? If so, I believe you can't get into Iran without a guide attached to you all the time.
I've heard that the Shan state of Burma is a pretty dodgy place; may want to consider that. The Central Asia route through Kyrgyzstan might be a better choice.
Great trip! Chok dee!
Edit: Also, the area east of Attapeu is wild and nobody goes out there; would be awesome on a bike. The sections of the Ho Chi Minh trail there are really amazing with the carpet bombing, old bridges/infrastructure, and SAM missiles still sitting around.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2015 - 04:45am PT
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About 400 k east of Bangkok, at Angkor Wat, Cambodia's 900 year old Vishnu temple.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jan 21, 2015 - 06:24am PT
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He lives! don't forget the cubicle pukes. we need to know you're out there.
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crankster
Trad climber
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Jan 21, 2015 - 07:11am PT
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Way to go, Rockermike!
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Jan 21, 2015 - 07:36am PT
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Can't believe I missed this.
Safe travels badass and yeah, looking forward to the updates.
I've been in a bunch of those places though not on a bike touring.
Living life large!
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couchmaster
climber
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Jan 21, 2015 - 08:20am PT
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I was just wondering about you yesterday and couldn't find this thread. Congrats and have fun!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 21, 2015 - 08:59am PT
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Last trip was awesome, this promises more of the same. Thanks for taking the time to share it with us, very inspiring.
Fair winds and full tires to you.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jan 21, 2015 - 12:31pm PT
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Don't miss Beng Melea if it's near your route:
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jan 21, 2015 - 08:34pm PT
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Rock on hombre! Livin' the dream.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2015 - 11:05pm PT
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Spongy wonder noseless saddle. Good for prostate health and blisters on your cheeks.
Stick is all the above plus most importantly a dog away stick. :)
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Jan 22, 2015 - 12:54am PT
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Hey, I'm curious too about your rig. I have drop handle bars for my touring and have been thinking of something different.
What handle bar set up are you using? Looks intriguing.
You've done enough miles to have it dialed in so the info will go along way for me IMHO.
Your slowly getting closer to my time zone too-keep peddling:-)
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jan 22, 2015 - 06:11am PT
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That is one great looking Surly.
I followed your South American trip and will be following this one as well. Good luck and happy travels.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jan 22, 2015 - 09:28am PT
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I used to like dogs. but after bike touring I have less and less tolerance for the mean ones.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 12:51am PT
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Bicycle glamour shot.....
The bars are from Velo-Orange. I think they call them 'Crazy Dan bars' or something like that. Basically swept back upright bars with bull horns sticking out front. I think I like them but still working it out. Bought a shorter stem a few days ago to get more of an upright position. I think I could do better myself if I knew how to weld. But these are better than drops for me on long bumpy days. :)
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2015 - 04:13pm PT
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More Angkor Wat
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Jan 27, 2015 - 05:32pm PT
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Thanks for the info!
And, that place is quite amazing. We were able o rent bikes and ride around when we were there and I'd suggest it for others who plan on going there. It's probably pretty nice to have your on ride there:-)
Seems you're having a grand time-as usual, peddle on and keep feeding us the goods as and when you can!
cheers
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2015 - 05:41pm PT
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For some reason I'm not feeling the groove this trip. Partly I'm out of shape and pushing a hundred lb bike around the world is f*#king hard work. Partly its dead flat around here and hot and sticky. Partly ..so far .. I don't have any exotic goals to shoot for like climbing into the high Andes on my last trip. So I've been spending a lot of time 'recuperating' in expensive (totally breaking my budget) french cafes with AC and good coffee. Life could be worse.
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thebravecowboy
climber
just banana-jam it
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Feb 11, 2015 - 05:43pm PT
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Keep on rockin' in the (internal comhusfion engine)-free world! F*#k yeah!
And dude, I am sure there are ways to level one's head for an escape from the hot sticky lowlands! You are set up to pedal MONGOLIA, bra. I would trade my princely (ok not princely) year's pay to be in yer boots!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 11, 2015 - 05:47pm PT
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So, have you had still-beating cobra heart yet?
That should get you in the groove!
"How humid is it, Johnny?"
BTW, the geographers here wanna see a map!
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Feb 11, 2015 - 05:59pm PT
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Mike,
Keep on turning those pedals and I"m sure you will get into the swing of things...
Thanks for the update.
Cheers
John
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Type 2 Fun in progress? When the wanderlust is purged, come home and join the daily taco addicts!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Mar 18, 2015 - 04:49pm PT
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Get rid of some of that crap, you're in SEA !
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 18, 2015 - 05:11pm PT
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At it again! Nice seeing you in Patagonia. Get to Iran...the people are very hospitable.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2015 - 02:06am PT
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I've been ignoring you guys... but now I'm in China and Facebook (as well as gmail, google, google maps and youtube) are all blocked by the government.... so my facebook friends will have to do without my spray for a while.... and their loss is supertopo's gain. ha
Anyway finished with Thailand, Cambodia and Laos. Into Yunnan province now in southern China. Climate still like SE Asia... tropical rain forest and lots of teak, rubber and banana plantations. And mountains...though not as desperate as those in northern Laos. (Did I mention the day it took me eight hours to push my 100 lb vehicle up an 8 kilometer hill/mountain? Solid 12 percent grade without a break. Have you seen a grown man cry?)
Waterfall near Luang Prabang...the ancient capital of Lan Xang (land of one million elephants) the old name of Laos. Never did see an elephant in Laos though we did see some elephant poop. Was told it was was from a working elephant pulling illegally logged teak trees out of the forest. We also ran across a series of zoo like cages filled with twenty plus full sized tigers. Beautiful creatures and desparately sad sight... most crammed in two to a cage. It wasn't a commercial site but rather out of the way with no visitors and only two guards. We suspect the tigers will be sold for aphrodisiac parts to the Chinese.
Myself and an Australian botanist friend - Gary - who invited me on an adventure searching for some of the last wild teak trees in the remote mountains of the golden triangle in the Burma Thai Laos border area.
Southern China
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Mar 26, 2015 - 07:10am PT
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Thanks for checking us in mike!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 26, 2015 - 09:29am PT
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Glad to hear you're still chuggin' along!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 26, 2015 - 12:10pm PT
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Very cool Mike!! What a rad adventure! Thanks for the report.
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couchmaster
climber
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Mar 26, 2015 - 12:42pm PT
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Mega ditto on all the thanks everyone else has sent your way Mike. Good to see things going so well! Keep on keepin on!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Mar 26, 2015 - 12:48pm PT
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Is the dotted line a river section?
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2015 - 06:40am PT
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No, that is where I was in a pickup while searching for teak. So I missed out on a couple hundred kilometers of riding. Fortuitous actually becuase the highway was under construction and the dust so bad... from a long string of 18 wheelers heading through the steep mountains to China -that you couldn't see the vehicle 40' in front of you. Pretty much un-rideable.
Anyway I'm in China now in Pu'er... the famous tea capital. 10 days of my 60 day visa already burnt and I'm nowhere near the real mountains yet. This is one big country. I think I'm going to have to jump on a bus to get further north. I want to at least ride the Tibetan plateau before my visa expires.
Tea groves
Two Chinese cycle tourists I met on the road. They don't speak a word of English and I have a Chinese vocabulary of about 50 words. ha
Anyway, after exchanging greatings with our smart phone translators they gave me a large jar of honey and wished me luck. :)
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Mar 31, 2015 - 07:33am PT
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Your trip keeps me speechless. Almost anyway.
The only Chinese I know is "jum cha" or something like that for "drink tea". And I was married to a Chinese man for over 20 years!!!
Susan
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 31, 2015 - 07:52am PT
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Good to finally see a map! But I'm cornfused, it looks like you started pedaling in the
Spratly Islands! WTF? Keep on keepin' on! Oh, and we want camping with creepy crawly
stories, too.
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thebravecowboy
climber
Greyrock, CO
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Mar 31, 2015 - 11:32am PT
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gave me a large jar of honey
enduristas just know that honey is it. too cool!
Cheers!
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gumbyclimber
climber
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Mar 31, 2015 - 12:18pm PT
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Glad you're still plodding along. The road from Kasi to Luang Prabang is gruesome yet stunning. I've ridden it several times on a motorbike and probably two dozen times in a mini van or bus; have seen some bad crashes.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2015 - 08:17am PT
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That's me... climbing limestone outside of Kunming.... capital of Yunnan. Looks like my biking days are over for a while. Arrived in Kunming and immediately fell in love with the place. So I'm staying for awhile. Found an apartment, registered for Chinese language course, and hooked up with a group of mostly expat climbers. Kunming is 3 million strong with clean air and blue skies. Sits at 6000 ft elevation so the temps are comfortable. And there are half a dozen climbing areas within an hour of town. Central Asia will half to wait. :)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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So if you rent some digs they'll extend yer visa?
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2015 - 03:28pm PT
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Visas are complicated and getting more so. Even some people who have been here 10 years are getting booted. Right now I have a ten year tourist visa but only get 60 days per an entry. I may be making frequent trips to Vietnam to re-stamp my entry date... only a six hour bus ride away. Or fly to Hongkong for $200 RT... but that gets expensive.
I don't know about wife but a long hair dictionary would sure help my Chinese practice. :)
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N_Farrgo
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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I just returned from a 6-month cycling trip from Mongolia to Bangkok. We had the same conundrum with the China visa. We actually had just a 30-day multiple entry visa. Because, we're not purists we opted for taking a couple trains in China rather than multiple entries and exits to make our way through the country. We met a couple cyclists who had traveled from central Europe via Iran to Mongolia. It can be done... but it doesn't sound like a walk in the park. For what it's worth, cycling in Mongolia should not be missed... but you should probably wait until June.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2015 - 10:33am PT
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Brief video of climbing near Kunming.
http://www.gokunming.com/en/blog/item/3468/video_and_guide_rock_climbing_around_kunming
So as mentioned upthread I stopped in Kunming for three month crash course in Chinese. I've now got a flashcard deck of 500 words I mostly know when sitting at my desk.... but out on the street I have yet to successfully use one sentence. ha therory and practice.
Meanwhile I've been trying to keep myself busy cycling to school every day and doing longer rides and rockclimbing trips on weekends.... but somewhere along the way I have developed a hernia. I don't know much about the medicine or risks involved... other than what wiki tells me.... but I've stopped climbing and have slowed down my cycling a bit. I haven't completely figured out my strategy yet but at this point it looks like I will be getting on a plane back to the states once my class is over to get myself properly stitched close. Hopefully it will only be a temporary setback.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 24, 2015 - 08:50pm PT
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I'm wishing you a quick complete recovery!
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2015 - 07:51am PT
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 07:40pm PT
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Back on the road again .. (to the tune of Willie Nelson)
Don't know where this journey is taking me but for now I'm riding across Qinghai province... (northern Tibetan plateau). Maybe someday I'll write some narrative but for now just photos
12, 500 pass in distance with giant stupa
Qinghai Lake in distance...largest lake in China. 'For rent' yurts. $35 a night. Lots of well heeled Chinese tourists in these parts.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jul 31, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
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On the choad again!
Enjoy the ride mike, and keep us posted up.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Jul 31, 2015 - 10:12pm PT
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Really really....and some more reallys....awesome.
Susan
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2015 - 06:43am PT
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Cool!
Look forward to hearing and seeing your furthering adventures. Keep us posted!
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Looks like we could be in the same place...but alas this is from a Buddhist retreat in the Santa Cruz mtns
Susan
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Joron
Trad climber
Hoodland, Oregon
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Great photos, Mike! Good luck with the hernia. Stay safe and please keep posting photos and more stories.
Joe
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Lollie
Social climber
I'm Lolli.
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Very interesting to follow your journeys. I hope the hernia doesn't set you back. If it's in the back, good physiotherapy can help a lot and heal it. But it takes time.
I'd love to go to those places where you are.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2015 - 07:21am PT
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For the time being I am ignoring the hernia and it seems to be ignoring me.
I'm currently heading west across the northern part of the Tibetan plateau...heading toward Golmud...in the center of Qinghai province. I just recently heard foreigners aren't allowed to go that way...but I'm not turning back so we'll see what happens.
Here's a couple of photos from the last few days..
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2015 - 02:08am PT
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2015 - 04:17am PT
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Unfortunately the Chinese government sees fit to block Crazy Guy on a Bike too. I guess they're afraid international anarchist cycle tourists. ha
I'm flying blind out here. Haven't seen a westerner or met anyone who speaks English in three weeks. :)
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2015 - 04:49am PT
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I'm about a days ride from crossing into Xinjiang province. The further west I go the drier it gets. At least I'm still at altitude of 9 to 10, 000 ft so its not too hot...but in Xinjiang it drops to 2000 ft and temps rise to 115 degrees or so. May be time for a bus ride. But first one more wind swept high pass to cross.
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Joron
Trad climber
Hoodland, Oregon
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Aug 16, 2015 - 04:04pm PT
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Thanks for posting, Mike. Wow, solar powered prayer wheels! Good luck on your next leg and stay cool.
Joe
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2015 - 08:54am PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Man, not sure I'd be smiling with that dude on my six.
Nice Berkut!*
*Dat boid, that is.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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I've got a couple of those solar powered wheels. I dig them!
That's a cool image too of your bike + tent out in the dunes:-)
Thanks for keeping us posted! I'm so jealous.
How's the bike holding up?
I've been thinking lately of moving to either Mongolia or Kazakhstan...you'll have to give us a report.
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Joron
Trad climber
Hoodland, Oregon
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Sep 13, 2015 - 12:01pm PT
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Great photos, Mike! But, it would be great to hear more stories. Did you cycle on through the heat or take the bus? What's the next destination and itinerary? Really enjoy your posts!
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Sep 13, 2015 - 06:23pm PT
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Just love your posts. Like others have mentioned, when ya get a good internet connection and have time, tell us about the last part of China.
Thanks for your time and good luck on the journey.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Sep 13, 2015 - 06:46pm PT
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I crossed paths with one of your compatriots last month (August)
I beat everyone else back to our group campsite in Tuolumne Meadows after a hike up to Glen Auldin and had just got my shoes changed and was sitting on the bear box, beer in hand when a guy pedals up on a weather beaten touring rig. He was looking for a campsite since the walk in sites had been closed by the plague scare.
In his thick Italian accent he told me about his travels.
http://www.bikingtour.it/
He rode all the way from Bolivia with a ducktape boot on the rear tire!
Has me inspired to put a rack on the bike, but I think I'll limit myself to California for now.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Sep 13, 2015 - 06:48pm PT
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This is such a wonderful journey to follow. You go to places that I can only dream about.
Susan
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2015 - 08:35pm PT
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https://youtu.be/Z9l0rVDLmA4
Here is a nice video of where I'm heading next...the Pamir highway in Tajikistan..... maybe a month before I hit the highest pass. Still have to cross Kyrgyzstan from Bishkek to Osh.
I have been carrying winter gear all this way... but winter gear for California not the high Pamirs. And now October is coming I'm worrying about the cold. Spent a good hunk of the last week in Almaty shopping for more stuff. I ended up settling for an additional heavy vest with puffy hood plus a pair of heavy leather hiking boots. The weight of course will slow me down ( particularly a waste once I get out of the mountains) but psychologically feel a little more comfortable heading up into the cold. I've heard I can expect temps below 0º F. And there will be 5 passes over 4200 meters..... the highest at 4650... or about 15, 000 feet.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
As to the desert.... I had started out on what is called the southern silk road which would have taken me through the desert and to Kashgar in the far west of China and then directly into Kyrgyzstan. .... but I met an Italian cyclist heading east ( the only westerner and only English speaker I had seen in a month) and he insisted I needed a visa for Kyrgyzstan. ..which I didn't have. I had heard from friends that I didn't need one... but I didn't have firm information. And there I was at a highway junction in the middle of the desert. Anyway I decided to play it safe and change my route so I hopped on an overnight bus heading north to the capital of Xinjiang province Urumxi where there are embassies. Next morning after hours is a pushing and shoving and cutting in line at the embassy I was told as an American I didn't need a visa. ha
So I missed the worst of the desert... though the Italian said it was pretty boring. But I still had another two weeks of hard riding with some foul weather and wind thrown in to get out of China and to Almaty, the capital of Kazakstan.
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 13, 2015 - 08:46pm PT
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rockermike is the only American actually doing something all while the rest of America is busy becoming even more sterile watching while drooling Donald Dump blathering on television ....
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2015 - 09:30pm PT
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Mosque in a small village near the border of Kazakhstan.
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Joron
Trad climber
Hoodland, Oregon
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Sep 14, 2015 - 09:15am PT
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Good stuff, Mike! Thanks for taking the time to post.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2015 - 07:49am PT
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Uiguar yurt village in western China.
I sure love tents.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2015 - 02:38am PT
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15, 000' pass in the Pamirs (Tajikistan). Overnight temps 10º and windy. More or less a one month loop from Osh in southern Kyrgyzstan over the shoulder of the Pamirs on the east and then south (within rock throwing range of Afghanistan) then on to Dushanbe. .. Tajikistan's capital. Popular 'extreem cyclist' route. Met a dozen cyclists holed up in a forlorn guesthouse in a high windswept village... all trying to finish up the loop before the real snows hit. I suspect Dushanbe may be the end of my ride this year. Long cold nights and failing enthusiasm. But I have a week left to go. Maybe I'll have a change of heart. :)
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2015 - 03:00am PT
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Gang of Pamiri boys on their way to school.
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Joron
Trad climber
Hoodland, Oregon
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Good update, Mike! So if Dushanbe is the end of your ride this year, will you spend the winter there? Or if you carry on what's the next destination?
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Beautiful Mike.
I love this saga. Every time I see an update I open it with great anticipation!
Susan
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2015 - 02:59am PT
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Gang of Pamiri girls. The Pamiris - by the way - are Tajik citizens and the Pamir mountains are in Tajikistan..... but historically, linguistically, racially, and religiously they are a seperate people. They are Ishmaili muslims... a very liberal sect.... and many as blue eyed and blond haired as your typical southern Cal surfer boy. Super poor country. Super generous people. They will give you their last crust of bread. In fact one shepherd did give me his last loaf of bread. I tried to give him at least half back and he refused. I ran into him the next day 40 kilometers down the road. It turned out he had walked all night through the snow and cold to take his heard of sheep , goats and yaks down valley for the winter. All without anything to eat in 24 hours.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2015 - 03:18am PT
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Right side of photo is Afghanistan. Spent 4 days following this river and within a stones throw. Only difference I could see was the Tajiks were in Toyota Land Cruisers ( drug smuggling money I'm told) and the Afghans are still riding donkeys.
As to my future, I'm still resting up from a hard 24 days push through the mountains on horribly rocky roads... and haven't decided yet. I don't think I'm going further west to Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. .. both very tourist unfriendly countries. So I may fly home or I may fly somewhere warmer like southern India and continue from there.
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Oct 19, 2015 - 05:04am PT
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Sounds like a good plan, Mike. Keep the adventure going, safely!
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overwatch
climber
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Oct 19, 2015 - 07:25am PT
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you are an amazing guy although it sounds like you're not alone out there. Anyone doing what you are doing has deepest respect from me.
I have not been out of the country since a trip to Taiwan in the late eighties. I leave in 10 days for a 10 day trip to Bangkok, Thailand with a little bit of trepidation about being so far from home.
you inspire me not to be light and just say whatever happens, happens.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 19, 2015 - 07:28am PT
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Mike....I've been on that same road in Takjikistan. Keep the adventure going! The Ismails in Khorog love to dance.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 19, 2015 - 07:42am PT
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Yes, Tadzhiks are wild and crazy guys!
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overwatch
climber
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Oct 19, 2015 - 09:22am PT
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All three, but especially the guy in the middle, have "angel eyes".
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Oct 19, 2015 - 11:38am PT
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Mike, it's cool that you take the time to share your adventures with the armchair hangers-on back here in Comfortistan.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 19, 2015 - 01:08pm PT
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Mike did a similar thing in South America a couple of years ago. He was a welcome guest at our home in Patagonia for a few days.
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Joron
Trad climber
Hoodland, Oregon
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Oct 20, 2015 - 10:50am PT
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Good photos and update, Mike. I've been wondering where you are.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Dec 31, 2015 - 09:06pm PT
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Anyone seen Mike lately?
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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I just discovered this thread again. Count me in as one of your die hard friends.
Looking forward to more updates.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jun 26, 2017 - 04:01pm PT
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^^^^Yes Mike, this is a great thread and I for one would love to hear more.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jun 26, 2017 - 04:15pm PT
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Totally. I followed your progress daily, as it was such a great journey.
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