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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 12, 2014 - 12:24pm PT
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Any of you Tahoe/Yosemite people remember Gene Drake? I just got off the phone with him. He's in hospice and not expected to be around much longer. Actually, he said he was supposed to be gone a week ago. He's totally lucid and in good spirits and it was REALLY good to talk to him. He and Cindy are living in Port Angeles.
He'd love to hear from his old friends. His number: 530 448-6051.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Dec 12, 2014 - 12:49pm PT
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When I started climbing in the Lake Tahoe region in the early 70's Gene was The Man. He authored the first decent guidebook to Lover's Leap and used to regale us with tales of doing The Line free. We all aspired to climb like Gene.
Later, when we lived in the Valley, as did Gene, he always let us in on the unannounced supermarket specials, usually held when climbers were out on the rock, so we could keep our low budget climbing adventure alive as long as possible.
Here's to you Gene!
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Dec 12, 2014 - 12:54pm PT
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I remember Gene fondly as well. I knew him in the late 70's when I moved to the North Tahoe area. He was very friendly and encouraging. I wish him strength and good spirits in this difficult time.
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crankster
Trad climber
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Dec 12, 2014 - 06:29pm PT
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Oh no...awful news. A Donner Summit legend. Wow. Bad.
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james Colborn
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Dec 12, 2014 - 08:40pm PT
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My first job in Truckee was at the Sierra Mountaineer which was next door to the downtown post office where Gene was an employee. He would come in daily to shoot the sh#t and ask what I've climbed lately and what my plans were for future ascents. Every climb I mentioned, he had done, and every one I had plans to do, he had endless info and stoke for. Working in a climbing shop and making $6 an hour, I was always dirt poor unable to purchase much of the hardware I was peddling. Luckily, Gene got deals for Boreal shoes, so i would always buy his handme downs. I still have a pair of aces of his. I used to subscribe to a couple of climbing rags back then that would arrive each month a couple days past when my buddies were recieving theirs, and they seemed a little less than fresh, don't think I didn't notice Gene! The guy was fondling my mags! Classic.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Dec 12, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
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This is terrible news. I was in Berkeley when Gene moved to Fresno, but I attended a slide show at his place in the summer of 1970, not realizing who he was. I think that's the only time I met him, but I have the original Tollhouse guide that is his workmanship, and I used that Lover's Leap guide in my Berkeley years. He certainly made a wonderful contribution to the Fresno climbing scene.
I'll try to let Mark Haymond know. Although I don't know you in person, Gene, my prayers go with you and your family.
John
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Dec 13, 2014 - 12:29am PT
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Gene Drake
A real.inspiration to me in my teenage climbing years
I remember finally getting oriented, must have been 1971 or so, with his Leap guide. Before that we had no idea what we were climbing.
My friend Bill and I shared a few campfires and jugs of wine with Gene in the early 70's. A very friendly, helpful and enthusiastic man. Not many like him.
Keep up the good spirits Gene. You have had a remarkable journey.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Dec 13, 2014 - 06:23am PT
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Always friendly and stoked to be climbing, positive thoughts for Gene & Cindy.
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Ghoulwe
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
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Dec 13, 2014 - 06:58am PT
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I spoke with Gene yesterday and as Mastadon said above, he sounded clear and in good spirits. We did a bit of reminiscing about old times and recalled some old friends and good times. I spent a lot of time around Gene in the late '70's/early 80's and he was one of the most positive and humorous people I knew. Always had a fun time with him whether climbing around Donner or XC skiing at Royal Gorge.
When I hung up the phone, I did some reflecting about how we all know we're going to die someday but it must be a strange feeling knowing it is maybe only days away. I think Gene found peace with this somehow and that made me feel better. I wish Cindy much strength through this tough time.
Rest well Gene.
Eric Barrett
Spokane, WA
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john bald
climber
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Dec 13, 2014 - 01:47pm PT
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First ran into Gene in Fort Collins. I was a less than serious student at CSU and Gene was a part time janitor in the evenings on campus. A perfect combination with Jim having the day off and me wanting to cut classes. Trips up to Lumpy and sessions at Horsetooth and Poudre with him and cohort Jim Orye (sp?). He was always one to push me and to teach the finer points balance and power moves.
After moving up to NorCal I would visit him on occasion up at Truckee where he worked at the post office.
One day I saw him roadside at the crag and asked for a recommendation. Firecracker was the climb. While pulling the crux, I exploded off the face in wonderment. After catching up with him later that day I found out that Gene had been watching me.
In acknowledgement of my fall, he said, "I guess you found that polished crystal". Another lesson learned, and now I know how the climb earned it's name.
Thanks Gene! You're the best!
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john bald
climber
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Dec 13, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
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Another Gene mystery?
A couple of years ago I did a climb up at City of Rocks that had the curious name of "GOD Stopper Crack". As the story goes the apparent first ascent party found an old aluminum stopper in the crack with the initials G.O.D. stamped into it.
With how Gene had crossed the country climbing everywhere I had always wondered if this was "his" climb!
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Dec 13, 2014 - 02:20pm PT
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Had a great talk with Gene this morning. Cindy wrote me that "he is slipping away". Any of us would be lucky to sound so clear, grounded, utterly present and content with the wonder of life, even at the end. I left him a voice message, and was surprised when he called me right back. Pulled over at the view of the Mammoth Creat you get right before going into Tamarack Lodge. We shared our respective spectacular views over the phone, and reminisced.
Gene could really appreciate that I was about to go classic skiing on blue hard wax. We had done the same together BITD.
Summer of 1977, I turned 15 that June, and went to the Meadows on my own for 8 weeks. Became friends with Gene, and he introduced me to all sorts of cool folks hanging there for the summer. One day he took me to the East Side, turned me onto the Buttermilks, and Schat's jalapeņo cheesebread. The first time I free soloed a route was with him, (great white book) and then we got stoked to find and a good new route to put up. We scoped a couple of walls that would be climbed in the future, but settled on doing the first route on, and actually naming, Low Profile Dome. Our route "Ages Apart" (Gene was 30. I was 15) went up well left of the much later done Golfers Route, I was pretty proud of my lead of the 5.9 second pitch, some gear and then a stout runout up the knobs, Gene liked it, but insisted on going back later to add a bolt, thinking a 5.9 route should be a bit safer.
That winter I started working weekends at Royal Gorge, Gene worked there too. Gene was a superb Nordic skier, having put in some time working at Trapp Family Lodge in Vermont. He reminded me this morning of being my passenger in my first driving snowy spin out, and how after extricating my little civic from the big snow bank, we rapidly overheated on I 80 cause the grill was so packed with snow.
Gene is a sweet awesome man, and I cherish the memories of the honor of his friendship. He is transitioning with such grace...peace and care to Cindy and all his loved ones.
Peter Mayfield
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Mark Rodell
Trad climber
Bangkok
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Dec 13, 2014 - 03:54pm PT
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Gene, I never shared a rope with Gene, was at the Leap a few times when he was there but we were always with other partners. I did ski with him many times, with him and his Tahoe gang. He was a fine skier, strong and smooth, classic. A strong member of the tribe.
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Dec 14, 2014 - 06:31am PT
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Bump for a great member of our tribe...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 14, 2014 - 06:44am PT
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What a long strange trip, Gene..
I first met Gene through Ken Yager about a million years ago in the valley, '76 (?)
Fast forward to rocksport Gym in. Reno, mid nineties. I was part of the original staff, gene and and Cindy were regulars. That's when I really got to know them. We 'd hang out, talk, share belays, sometimes they would beta test and rate routes I set. Mostly I think of swapping climbing stories, and tales of mutual friends. More and more I'd see them at Donner summit and maybe the gorge. We'd run into each other at Costco or Sierra trading post, just very nice, warm people to be around.
I went through a rough time in my life and they were a bigger help than I can describe.
Well Gene, strength and vibes through this next adventure. Sounds like you're dealing with it in fine style and with a positive view. We should all do so well.
Cheers
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Dec 14, 2014 - 06:53am PT
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Gene was someone I looked up to when just starting climbing in Tahoe.
His great routes are still some of my favorites.
Thanks for the inspiration Gene!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Dec 14, 2014 - 07:56am PT
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hey there, say, all... i do not know gene, but sure know of a lot of the folks here, that know and love him...
prayers for him and his family, at this hard time of life...
i had my daddy pass-on, last year, and at this time, last year, he was doing very badly...
may gene do peacefully and get through this, in his best way, with his loved one, being his strength...
you are in my thoughts and prayers...
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overit
Trad climber
Boulder
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Dec 14, 2014 - 09:14am PT
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Met him and Cindy one day in Donner and then ran into them from time to time on our Tahoe trips. Very nice people, so sad to hear.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Dec 14, 2014 - 09:52am PT
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Good tales everyone.
Very fond recollections by those that knew him.
Sounds as though I wish I had met Gene too.
Peace
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Dec 14, 2014 - 01:15pm PT
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Wow, pretty upsetting to hear this. I remember him as a level headed, easy going guy. The first climbing guide I ever bought was at the old Alpenglow mountain shop right there next to the post office where Gene worked in downtown Truckee. It was a paperback set of Donner Summit topos compiled by Gene.
Thoughts and prayers to him his loved ones.
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Ropeboy
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Dec 14, 2014 - 02:28pm PT
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I climbed with Gene in the late sixties and early seventies. We were both enchanted with rock climbing could not get enough of it. We worked our way through 5.7's and 5.8's together. After a twenty day climbing trip to Yosemite and Lover's Leap in 1969, in a 1954 Ford panel truck purchased for $75, we climbed The Line, our first 5.9 climb. The old truck rattled and smoked back to Sacramento at 45 mph in triumph. He was a dreamer, looking forward to bigger plans and adventures than I would think up myself. But once on the rock we were bonded with excitement for the climb and you could not ask for a more compatible and competent partner.
Memories of Gene: all good ones, and I cherish all the adventures we had together.
Mark Haymond
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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Dec 15, 2014 - 06:48pm PT
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had the privilege of meeting Gene when first introduced to climbing many years ago in the tahoe area. sad to hear of this decline. my condolences to family and friends.
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Francesca Drake
Trad climber
California,Truckee
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Dec 15, 2014 - 09:03pm PT
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Good men all of you.
C.D.
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2014 - 06:12pm PT
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Cindy,
I can't tell you how sorry I am. I had a great talk with Gene. Call me if you end up in Truckee.
Don Harder
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 16, 2014 - 07:13pm PT
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A true Tahoe legend. It's been awhile but Gene was always really encouraging and stoked. Gene made me feel like my modest ambitions were worthy and he made me stoked to climb for life. Thanks for the guidance, Gene.
Brook Igleheart,
Truckee (when the stars align)
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Spike Flavis
Sport climber
Truckee California
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Dec 16, 2014 - 07:45pm PT
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Sorry to hear about Gene. In my early days ('81-'83) Ken Ariza, Bob Baldwin, Tim Maas, Kurt Smith, Rick Lovelace, Hatchett bros (to name a few) and I looked at Gene and some of the other Donner locals with contempt. We saw them as dinosuares. We would get baked out of our minds and strut over to the post office to taunt Gene about this route or that. See....we had spent a little time in the Valley and J-tree and new what was up. What little fckinassssholes we were! We hadn't really done squat! But here's the thing, Gene took it all in stride. I can't believe he put up w/ our BS. Then things got really weird in the late 80's when sport climbing took over Donner. It was the same bolting wars as in other climbing areas around that time but hears the rub-the older guys were into rap bolting and dogging while the young guys were in the valley gettin' high on big walls and trad kool-aid. When we returned and started bitchin' about the anchor bolts on the top of the first pitch of One Hand clapping and the T.R. anchors on Manic ("there's a bomber RP!!!!") to name a few, Gene and Doug M informed us since we didn't live there we were no longer locals and our opinions didn't mean squat. I was told to go back to the valley!! A few years later, it seems Gene and the crew had it right as the young lion's turned to rap bolting projects at Big Cheif, Rifle and else where. I remember Gene lowering off his kazzillonth lap on Peter Principle and raving about what a great climb it is. A climbing master and a gentlemen. Rest easy Gene.
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Hardly Visible
Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
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Dec 28, 2014 - 12:32pm PT
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Any news?
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Yes. I had an incredible conversation with Gene this morning. Lots of memories and laughter. The guy is as easy going as you remember.
To hear his voice (same as ever) brought back times at the crags, The Leap, Yosemite, Donner and skiing together. He was always welcoming, gentle - and interested in you, your projects and dreams.
What a guy. He led a uncomplicated life. Focused on being outdoors. He recalled his first climbing trip - to the Palisades in 1965 or 66 with his brother.
I first met Gene in Yosemite in 1972 or so. He always provided quality information. We recounted those times, in the valley, nobody at Reeds, the smells of the Valley in Spring, the routes in Tuolumne etc etc.
He is at peace with his life.
Goodbye Gene. We will miss you terribly.
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2015 - 06:17am PT
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Gene Drake passed on to a better place last Saturday. Makes me very sad to see him go. The world has lost a wonderful person.
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Yeti
Trad climber
Ketchum, Idaho
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Feb 10, 2015 - 06:26am PT
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Gene was a beautiful person and a wonderful climbing partner. We climbed together on Donner in the old Truckee days and I have many fond memories of Gene from that time. My condolences to Cindy.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 10, 2015 - 09:06am PT
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Condolences , He was one of the 1st giving Pioneers of rock climbing, always sharing and as the mentor to the times that were filled with us mssfits, you made it seem more than worthy to do little more than climb. For all who need , may peace now find you. . .
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 11, 2015 - 05:54am PT
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hey there say, mastadon... as to this...
Gene Drake passed on to a better place last Saturday. Makes me very sad to see him go. The world has lost a wonderful person.
thanks for sharing...
and many thanks for letting folks know, back in dec,
that he was doing poorly, so they could get in touch with him...
folks NEED these trails, left by others...
good job... kind heart...
my condolences to gene's family and loved ones...
and prayers for them to get through this hard time of loss...
will keep in mind, more fresh, now, as it is near to the date when my daddy passed on, ... :(
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crankster
Trad climber
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Feb 11, 2015 - 06:02am PT
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Sad news. He was a great guy.
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 11, 2015 - 08:53am PT
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Free at Last. Much respect for a life well lived and an honorable man. My sincerest condolences to Gene 's people. Thanks for leading the way. A true boddhisattva.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 11, 2015 - 09:11am PT
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Goodbye Gene and thank you!
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Brock Wagstaff
Trad climber
Larkspur
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Feb 11, 2015 - 10:22am PT
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Thinking of you Gene. I remember so well sitting around those campfires at the Leap in the early 70's, and still appreciate your shared wisdom and the enthusiasm you had for climbing. The world is a poorer place without you in it.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Feb 11, 2015 - 11:05am PT
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Gene enriched the lives of climbers wherever he went. Fresno was much the better for his presence here. Rest in peace, my good man.
John
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Bubba Ho-Tep
climber
Evergreen, CO
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Feb 11, 2015 - 11:39am PT
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I met Gene sometime in the 70's when he lived in Fort Collins. We did many great climbs together - Yosemite, Tuolumne, Lumpy Ridge, Eldo, Vedauwoo, a couple dozen unreported lines in the Poudre Canyon and a host of others. Some great times!
Mentor, friend, inspiration - you will be missed.
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Barbarian
climber
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Feb 11, 2015 - 11:51am PT
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I'm saddened to hear of Gene's passing. He was an inspiration to so many of us. My condolences to his family.
It is good that he is free; that is a blessing, but there is an empty spot in those of us left behind.
Climb on, Gene! It's your lead and you've earned it. Run it out.
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Mark Rodell
Trad climber
Bangkok
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Feb 11, 2015 - 03:40pm PT
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I'll be looking for a top rope from you in the future, Gene.
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Jimbo7
Trad climber
Pocatello, Idaho
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May 19, 2015 - 12:43pm PT
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Gene will be missed. I climbed with him through out my high school years in the late 60's and after in the 1970s. He was a my first climbing partner and mentor. He was a great climber and loved the sport. The memories are many and now, all good. He stuck with it long after I had a bad run in with frostbite on an Easter Climb in the high sierras and stopped climbing. Gene did a lot to further climbing in the Lover's Leap and Sugarloaf areas with his climbing guides. He spent so much time climbing there and loved it. Our first wall climbs in the valley in the mid sixties instilled his love for the area and the climbers fellowship. It has been a lot of years since we had spoken or seen each other but we connected on email late last year. The news of his health was a tough blow, but he seemed to take it in stride.
He will be missed by many.
Jim Hicks
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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May 19, 2015 - 12:47pm PT
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Beautiful post Jimbo7
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Rosamond
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 17, 2015 - 09:56am PT
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I only just heard that Gene has passed. He wrote the first true topo to my home area, Donner. It was a xeroxed thing of about 20 pages, and was much coveted. He used to pick me up hitch hiking to the crags, because, as a teenager, I rarely had enough gas money to drive, when every penny was being spent on gear. I never knew him well, even though we lived in the same town. But his drawings helped fuel my teenage imagination and put me on the track of dozens of climbs that I now consider to be Donner classics. He was a good guy.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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One year bump for a very good man.
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the goat
climber
north central WA
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I was out of the country this time last year and missed Masta's original post. I met Gene in the valley around 1974-5. He was working at the Ahwanhee if memory serves me. Anyway, did a couple of climbs on the Apron and remember him being a truly nice guy, friendly, unassuming, yet a focused and talented climber. 40 years later he still stands out in my mind as one of the classiest guys I ever had the chance to meet. RIP buddy.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Cheers Gene.
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