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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 8, 2014 - 11:21am PT
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The North American Climbing History Archives (NACHA) and the Summit Hut are pleased to announce the third annual Granitica Festival to be held at the Oro Valley location of the Summit Hut (7745 N Oracle Road 85704) on Saturday and Sunday February 14-15, 2015. The Festival starts at 5pm and will run until 10pm on both evenings. I would also like to thank the Arizona Historical Society and the good folks at Rocks and Ropes and The Bloc for their generous assistance and support as sponsors. Additionally, the newly formed Climber's Association of Southern Arizona (CASA) will also be sponsoring and supporting the Festival this year.
The theme for 2014 is: Dreams of I'itoi- Baboquivari Adventures.
We will be taking a long look at the history of exploration on Baboquivari Peak starting with the Tohono O'odham perspective and the first ascent via the Forbes Route and moving to the present day. A tribal story teller will open the program with a discussion of Baboquivari and the origins of his people including the role of I'itoi who has traditionally lived near the peak. The emphasis for much of the remainder of the program will be on developments on the dramatically overhanging east face, home of the most challenging big wall routes in AZ.
Big Jim Griffith photo
At this time the tentative speakers list includes George Hurley, Joanna Coleman, Don Morris, Dave Ganci, Rick Tidrick, Jerry Robertson, Dave Baker, Merlin Wheeler, Mike McEwen, Martin Woerner, Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom, Steve Grossman, Gary Hervert, John Steiger, Fig Fiola, Eric Johnson, Damon Williams and Rick Donnelly. A full list of routes to be examined will be forthcoming as I hear back from potential speakers.
George Hurley will also be including commentary on establishing the Kor Route, a Sabino Canyon classic done with Layton early on.
Come and hear about how Lion's Ledge got its name and many more fabulous tales of adventure and mysticism.
Tom Bahti photo
Admission will be $25 and subject to availability. Purchase your tickets by phone or in person at either Summit Hut location (520-325-1554 or 520-888-1000). Limited seating is available at this event.
Don't miss this amazing historical gathering and come meet these folks and hear their stories!
See You There!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Bump
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Looking forward to the event!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2014 - 01:14pm PT
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I hope that everyone can come and enjoy this gathering down in sunny Tucson.
So much fantastic climbing and history to examine and appreciate!
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scott baxter
Gym climber
sedona, arizona
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Dec 14, 2014 - 10:23am PT
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Steve,
I'll be there.
Scott
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2014 - 10:41am PT
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Glad to hear it Scott as you will be talking about the doing the second ascent of the Spring Route alongside Marty Woerner and Karl Karlstrom.
This is going to be a blast!
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Dec 14, 2014 - 12:39pm PT
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I am psyched for this event. Babo is an amazing place and I am looking forward to seeing the presentations!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2014 - 03:23pm PT
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Here is Bill Forrest's classic Summit magazine account of establishing the Spring Route with George Hurley. Not knowing about Lion's Ledge, they climbed the east face all the way from the bottom to start their adventure off right! LOL
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Dec 16, 2014 - 08:42am PT
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Steve, when was that Summit article published?
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Dec 16, 2014 - 09:05am PT
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November 1968 Larry.
Can't believe I missed this sweeping across the front page the first time.
Look forward to another exceptionally cool historical experience.
Thanks for making it happen Steve!
edit: fixed my bad spelling of I'Itoi
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 16, 2014 - 02:35pm PT
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Will there be crag time?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2014 - 02:46pm PT
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The show starts at 5 pm so you have lots of climbing time and I will be arranging camping close to the venue for visitors if you are planning on coming.
Always great to see you Seeker!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Dec 17, 2014 - 09:49am PT
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Some old babo photos bump... previous posted under the Cochise fest thread...
Doug Black on the third pitch of SE Arete? 1964
Summit shot 1964. Old Heliograph station in the background?
Photos from the Bill Sewery collection.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2014 - 11:08am PT
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I just got in touch with Dave Ganci and through him will contact Rick Tidrick and Jerry Robertson who were involved in doing the first ascent of the SE Arete in 1958. Right after I hung up the phone Don Morris confirmed that he is planning on coming so that leaves only Tom Hale unaccounted for.
If anyone knows how to contact Tom Hale, please let me know.
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Dec 19, 2014 - 12:01pm PT
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Hale,_Jr
he is Don Laidlaw's cousin and Don still lives on 3rd street here in Tucson.
I had wine with both Don and Tom at Don's house 15 years ago. They were part of Roma Ramblers with Eber Glendenning et al.
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Dec 19, 2014 - 12:08pm PT
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...and greg-
from AAJ
"Baboquivari Peak, Various Ascents. In March, I soloed a new route on the east face of Baboquivari Peak. Freak of Nature (VI 5.10 A5a) starts 40 feet left of Cradle of Stone and climbs straight up a blankish golden wall left of the black water streak in the center the face. The fifth pitch (A5a) has 22 A3/A4 placements in a row, producing a 45- to 50-foot runout. The route finishes with a 5.10 A2+ variation to the Spring Route aid comer. Pasted quarter-inch aluminum heads protect 5.10 face climbing. No bolts were drilled and all free climbing was led free onsight.
Jim Beyer"
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2014 - 05:40pm PT
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Rick- Can you get contact information to me for Tom Hale so that I can get him on board for this event?
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Bump for a great event! When will tickets go on sale?
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hikermor
Trad climber
southern california
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About the structure in the background of one of the earlier posts. It was definitely not a heliograph station, but was installed as a fire lookout(!) about 1940, when the stairs and trail from the west were built. It went away in the 1970s.
I don't believe that there ever was a heliograph station on Babo. It was not shown as a station for the network established during the Geronimo campaign of the early 1890s. Had that been the case, the soldiers would been the first ascentionists and not Forbes.
Rincon Peak was part of the helio network, the westernmost point. The big rock cairn on its summit dates from that use.
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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I wonder how the Babo heliograph station rumor got started? Was it Steelmnkey on rec.climbing?
https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.climbing/mWd4NwFnei8
Just joking. I remember thinking the wreckage on top was the heliograph station when I was first up there, about 1993.
hikermor, there was a heliograph station on Mt. Wrightson (aka Mount Baldy) which is west of Rincon Peak. A minor detail.
It will be interesting to hear whether or not any of the Babo veterans have seen the Sea of Cortez from the summit. Looking forward to the event!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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That is cool info hikermor.
Pretty sure I got it from the Bob Kerry guidebook (first edition, page 115 says there was one). not sure where he got it...maybe he'll be at the Fest and we can ask him! :-)
Hey it was wreckage and it could have been a heliograph station, or a lemonade stand. I'm gullible. :-)
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hikermor
Trad climber
southern california
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Found this on a list of 19th century helio stations:
8 Little Baldy Peak, 11/2 miles south of Old Baldy, Santa Rita Mountains
There were different networks at different times,including USFS efforts around 1900.
Must have been an interesting assignment. Probably sunny dispositions were essential....
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2015 - 05:33pm PT
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I am planning on spending a little time doing research ahead of the Festival doing research at the Arizona historical Society to see what I can find out.
In the absence of radio communication from up there heliograph communication makes sense but I agree that the historical timeframe is likely too far off.
I heard heliograph station a long time ago so I assumed it was correct.
The tickets should go on sale in a day or two and I will confirm availability.
This is really going to be fun!
More interesting Baboquivari history including pages from the missing original Summit Hut looseleaf guidebook mixed with other Deucey tidbits here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2157458/Big-Wall-Archives-Baboquivari
The history section says it was a heliograph station from the 1930s so that is certainly where I read it first.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Well bummer....
My work has me in Portland around then.
Perhaps I'll hoist one with Peter in honor.
Gimp: I''d like to get more info on the Roma Ramblers.
We were tromping around upper Oak Creek and summited a small thing and found a film can, The Kaibab Cap, Roma Ramblers, 1963. (To my best memory)
It was a typical nasty bushwalk up high on the west side N of West Fork
Sorry to miss this one!
There goes my clean sheet.
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Scott McNamara
climber
Tucson, Arizona
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Look forward to seeing you guys!
Babo has always been a wonderful mysterious place for me.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Be nice to see you too Scottie! Hope you been staying out of trouble! :-)
Bummed that PKD isn't going to make it. He was 2 for 2.
Festbump...
For your viewing pleasure, my buddy Tim on the Southeast Arete, Pitch 2.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2015 - 04:49pm PT
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Tickets are available now by calling or stopping by either location of the Summit Hut (520) 325-1554 or (520) 888-1000. Limited seating available so get yours now!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2015 - 07:08pm PT
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Open Box Office Bump.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2015 - 03:29pm PT
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Bump for AP...
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Jan 23, 2015 - 05:34pm PT
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Bump for a great event!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2015 - 09:21pm PT
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Here is the event poster. Really looking forward to this one!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 24, 2015 - 09:23am PT
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There's a BUMP in the road...should be a GREAT event!!
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Kyle0
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Jan 28, 2015 - 06:59am PT
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Heliographs were actively used primarily in the campaign against Geronimo in 1886 (predating Babo's FA). Their relieance on horseback couriers and need for frequent resupplies would have likely made a post on Babo difficult or impossible anyways. Some interesting reading on it here http://huachuca-www.army.mil/pages/history/Rolak.html Apparently General Miles greatly exaggerated the heliographs role and use against the apaches, lol.
Stoked for this year, after an awesome time last year!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2015 - 06:29pm PT
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Glad to have you back!
The tigers are retracing their steps as I write.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2015 - 10:17am PT
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Bump with two weeks to go!
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takeme
Trad climber
tucson, az
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The Cochise event last year was amazing and I'm even more excited for this one! Thanks for all your hard work organizing it, Steve (and whoever else is involved).
A couple shots of my wife Cindy on Humungous Woosey, pitches 3 (crux) and 5, respectively:
Moonscape's crux pitch, Steve Curtis leading:
Don's Crack shots from the FA, courtesy of Ben Fairbanks:
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2015 - 04:45pm PT
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Those are some great images!
Please check your email as I would like to know what else you have.
These Festivals are totally a team effort and I would welcome your participation.
Is Ben Fairbanks still around Tucson?
Cheers!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Lets bump this sucker back to the top.
Shot of Damon Williams (and JM) hoofing back up to Babo to try to dig up some memories of the route 22+ years after doing the first ascent of Moonscapes (5.11c) on the east face of Babo with Jim Waugh. Damon will be talking about the first ascent a week from Sunday at the Fest!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2015 - 07:27pm PT
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Just a heads up that I will be cancelling several campsite reservations at Catalina State Park in the next couple of days if anyone needs one coming in from out of town.
Minutes from the event and a really beautiful spot to camp out on the edge of town. The Gem and Mineral Show makes it a bit tough to find other accommodations if you plan on just showing up.
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Bump for a great event!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Ho mahn... the stage is set...
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Wow!! Nice Greg! I am stoked!!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 12, 2015 - 08:23am PT
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Lets bump this back up. Coming up in TWO days!!!
See you Saturday!
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apozzi
Trad climber
Florida Gainesville
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Feb 13, 2015 - 03:53pm PT
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Steve
I may be too late but would love to tell you about my great trip with Jim Boyer and Kipp Metzger to put up Spaghetti Western, left of the Spring Route. It was my first time on the Baboquivari and have fond memories of it. Also my first of many visits to AZ.
I remember getting introduced to Tequila and mexican food at the ledge, by Jim and Kipp. I remember soft and crumbly rock and, while climbing the first pitch, looking down at the bushes for soft landing. We did not make holes other than the belays, if I remember well.
Just remember it as a magic place, getting to the top at sunset and coming down in the dark. I'll send picts if I find them.
Wish I'd be at the event.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 13, 2015 - 04:15pm PT
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HO MAN, THIS JUST FILLS THE IMAGINATION!!
THNX FOR SHARING!
HAVE FUN IN THE SUN!!
wish I could be there!
(been lurking for some time)
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 13, 2015 - 08:46pm PT
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Party tomorrow! One more bump for the road!
Some classic AZ climbing history!!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 13, 2015 - 09:08pm PT
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Have fun y'all.
And Geir, thanks for inviting Mari along today. She said she really enjoyed it.
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Scott McNamara
climber
Tucson, Arizona
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Feb 16, 2015 - 06:17am PT
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Thanks Steve, Mimi & Geir,
That was really fun!
Scott Mc
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 16, 2015 - 09:16am PT
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Totally agree. Another winner by Steve and Mimi.
Was great to meet George Hurley.
As Royal Robbins would say, a great climbing spirit.
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takeme
Trad climber
tucson, az
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Feb 17, 2015 - 08:43am PT
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A great show, just like last year. Thanks to Steve, Mimi, and all the presenters. And Greg Opland for the great topos.
Fig's presentations really stood out for me. I have vivid pictures in my head of him ropeless, a thousand feet above Lion's Ledge.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2015 - 11:33am PT
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Granitica Festival III was another fantastic gathering and I want to thank everyone involved for their solid preparation and commitment to the quality of the program.
Two folks really stand out and they are:
Michael Enis- a renowned Tohono O'odham story teller who really set the stage for the Festival spiritually by allowing us to see Baboquvari and this part of the world through his eyes. He sang a wonderful song of welcome and introduction to the living world around us and told of his own ascent of Baboquivari when he was a teenager with his adventurous mother.
Greg Opland- his love of history and route details lead to both the route overlays which allowed the speakers and everyone else to visualize the climbs being discussed and the superb event poster which showed as many of the lines on the east face as we had solid information to locate. Greg has produced several fine guidebooks and has the solid graphic art skills that I hope to possess one day and deeply appreciate having access to now.
The speakers all did a fantastic job of putting the audience on the routes and in the adventures as they recalled them looking back and also deserve a very big THANK YOU for delivering a quality experience for those lucky folks in attendance! As I am fond of saying about these Festivals, I simply set the table and the speakers lay out the historical repast that nourishes and delights us all.
I am already working on a Grand Canyon climbing history event for next year so stay tuned!
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Feb 17, 2015 - 01:12pm PT
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Thanks Steve for the wonderful show. I thought the introduction by the Native American speaker was great, it allowed us to understand the spiritual connection certain people have to the landscape, something which sadly seems to be lost these days.
Sorry I couldn't stay for Sunday's presentation.
Look forward to the Grand Canyon presentation.
Thanks again,
Albert
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2015 - 09:00pm PT
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Albert- It was great to see you and I was really inspired to see how many folks have been to all three Granitica Festivals!
It let's me know that we are moving the AZ community in a deeply entertaining way with these gatherings. So good to get everyone together and spend some quality time with my friends.
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Apr 10, 2015 - 04:42pm PT
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metates from last weekend at the Riggs Ranch.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2015 - 02:03pm PT
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Thanks for the memory Rick!
I hadn't thought about those doorways in a very long time. As harsh as Thomas Canyon seems passing through those metates tell a very different and older story.
My good friend Gail McDonald was instrumental in getting Michael Enis to join us and she got inspired to go out and commune with Baboquivari Peak after the Festival. She wrote this to share her day and let me share it here.
Circumambulating Baboquivari- Fire and Ice
Day after Full Moon, March 7, 2015
In the East it is considered a great blessing if you can circumambulate a holy mountain in your lifetime. When I first heard of the possibility of circumambulating Baboquivari I longed to do it. At the recent Granitica Festival dedicated to the first ascents of the East Face of Baboquivari, the climbers spoke with such gratitude and respect of their times on Baboquivari that I determined to climb it on the next full moon-which was this past week.
My always willing adventurous friend Kim Clifton and I left town early afternoon, but the road into Riggs Ranch is now so bad we didn't arrive until 5 p.m. We set off through cattle climax thornbush and prickly pear. The new trail to the north saddle, scouted out since the drainage burned, has loose rock and dirt on the steeply eroding hillsides. We reached the saddle at dusk. A burned oak had conveniently crashed right next to the fire ring, so we had only to reach out for firewood to cook our veggee dogs. Strong winds surrounded us as the full moon rose. Somewhere around mid night a pygmy owl stopped on the branches overhead and sounded its single note call over and over.
We rose at dawn and then were confused by the new start to the Lion's Ledge trail: the saddle burned, there was downfall and the trail seemed more east than I recalled. We finally settled on the new cairned trail, again going over rocky eroded burned slopes. Lion's Ledge was spectacular, the East Face so impressive. The Spring Route looked difficult and the famous step off the tree looked like a thing of the past. Could climbers really step off the tree that is still there? There was plenty of water at the spring and in the cave. We saw only one dry mountain lion scat. As we crawled through some of the brush to avoid the steep rock at the edge of the trail I told Kim we should return with clippers to make the ledge easier. "Keep it wild, keep it difficult," he replied, echoing John Steiger's words at Granitica.
The South Arete was beautiful, with its vast view out of grasslands stretching to Mexico. Southeast Arete's first pitch looked inviting. And beyond the SE Arete, the furthest we'd ever been, was cairned! We found a lovely trail first through trees, and then through burned oaks. It was fine walking in the cool early morning shade, but I thought of how hot this route would be most of the year.
At the West Buttress we hit black locust, a great soil stabilizer after a burn, but a mass of thorns. We tore through that to reach the West Trail, also burned. Again we thought how hot all the approaches to Baboquivari have become. We hiked up the Great Ramp, still with some iron and lumber from the old ladders and cable-and came to our first patches of snow. We turned the corner to the Ladder Pitch, and walked through more burn. Ice chips shattered about us as we looked up at water runnning down the pitch. We could see ice above and in the middle of the pitch. I checked the first handholds and tricam placements: full of water. It took awhile to persuade myself to lead it. It's easy, but exposed at the base. "A fall would be catastrophic," I remembered Mike McEwen saying about exposed pitches. But finally I'toi led me through and I did the pitch. There was more ice in the gully leading up to the burned summit. At least you can't get lost coming off the summit, now that it's burned: you can see the route clearly.
>> 15 sky dancing ravens greeted us as we rounded the turn to the summit. Kim found a smudge on the summit cairn, lit it and made an offering of thanks. Swifts circled and raced right by our ears. As Michael Enis had asked, "Don't you always see birds when you go to Baboquivari?"
>> Soon we headed down, through more burn, past the 2 rappels on the Forbes Route, again through more burn, down to the North Saddle. The valleys west and east of the Saddle have burned. Fresh oak leaves now surround most of the burned oaks, and it will only be 10 years before they are head high. Golden smoke flowers were scattered here and there in the otherwise bare soil.
It was a sobering trip: the entire "lasso around Baboquivari" of which Michael Enis spoke, has burned-except for Lion's Ledge. It's definitely a hotter approach, with more steeply eroding slopes, laced with downed trees. Baboquivari's magic is unchanged however. It is always available, waiting to be experienced.
May we help others to experience the power and the magic of this world.
Thanks for all your help and inspiration, Gail
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 19, 2015 - 05:56pm PT
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Babo is one of the greatest desert mountain summits in the USA!
Here is Margy, Gordo and I on the summit, sometime in the '80s.
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