A few pics of retreating/rescue (?) off the Nose yesterday

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Messages 1 - 33 of total 33 in this topic
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 27, 2014 - 10:37am PT
I don't know any details, but yesterday a little after noon I glassed up the Nose and saw this cat hanging out in the middle of nowhere with a pig but no rope. Huh. Definitely not something you see everyday.


A few minutes later a fella with what looked like an aircast showed up with a rope.


If he was in any pain, he sure wasn't showing it. These two were soon joined by another. I didn't stick around to see how it turned out, but it looked like they had things more or less under control. Kudos.

We lost ~ 25 meters of a brand new rope deep inside Bishop's Terrace that morning, but this really put things in perspective. I hope they got down safely and the guy in the cast heals well!
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Nov 27, 2014 - 12:17pm PT
Hanging up there with no rope would be a little unsettling. Love to hear the rest of the story

mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Nov 27, 2014 - 12:29pm PT
Always a good story when you and the pig are ropeless at a belay.



Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 27, 2014 - 12:32pm PT
Doesn't look like it was about to start snowing.
WBraun

climber
Nov 27, 2014 - 03:22pm PT
Broke his ankle on a fall on the pitch off Camp 5.

Retreated on his own power to the ground and even made it out to the road from there,

Bad ass .....
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2014 - 05:16pm PT
Bad ass .....

Yeah he certainly looked calm, cool, and collected. Rapping down on one foot like it was just another day. Brought back a few memories, and I wonder what his precise injury was. When I shattered my talus, I actually didn't have any pain at all, so long as it wasn't touching anything. This led the ER Dr. to mis-diagnose the dislocation and send me home. Not cool.

Anyway, glad to hear they got down without further incident.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Nov 27, 2014 - 08:46pm PT
So did he really have an air cast in his kit?

Now, THAT, is bad ass! Preparatory repairatory!
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Nov 28, 2014 - 05:33am PT
Broke his ankle on a fall on the pitch off Camp 5.

How many accidents for this pitch? I recall an accident in Sept in the area.
Techy Mantle

Boulder climber
Boulder, CO
Nov 28, 2014 - 03:21pm PT
Clay fell onto the ledge when his piece blew falling 30 feet on the camp five pitch. Broke his tib fib. We used a belay seat and a piece of plastic chair that I had found wedged in a crack to build his splint for his leg. About two rolls of climbing tape later we had made a pretty damn good air cast. Freddy took off with the pig and put clay in the middle for repels. 18 raps later we were at the base. Clay rapped on a gri so he could slide on one side of his body down the wall keeping the left broken leg on the outside . Carried him out to the meadow and asked some sweds to call an ambulance. Thanks for the water btw. That was our first time on the nose. Won't be our last! Cheers!
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
Nov 28, 2014 - 03:24pm PT
VERY well done, fellas. What an exemplary self-rescue. Your story should be broadcast....loudly!
CA.Timothy

climber
California
Nov 28, 2014 - 03:27pm PT
impressive. makes me realize that I am totally unprepared for most self rescue situations
Gene

climber
Nov 28, 2014 - 03:29pm PT
Respect to the team. Fine job!
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Nov 28, 2014 - 03:34pm PT
You ruined the story by telling us you called an ambulance. Clay would have been a legend if he had retreated to the Mountain Room for a drink, brandy of course.

Great job getting off, how long did it take?
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Nov 28, 2014 - 03:37pm PT
VERY well done, fellas. What an exemplary self-rescue. Your story should be broadcast....loudly!


Indeed! And quite badass as well.
Techy Mantle

Boulder climber
Boulder, CO
Nov 28, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
Thanks for the support everyone. We just wanted to get our brother down. That night we went to curry and got a pizza and beers. Best pizza and beer I've ever had.
Techy Mantle

Boulder climber
Boulder, CO
Nov 28, 2014 - 03:45pm PT
John beck, it took us 5 hours to get down to the meadow,roughly.
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Nov 28, 2014 - 04:38pm PT
Nice going guys.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Nov 28, 2014 - 06:59pm PT
5hrs down.. very solid, seems you guys had your stuff together.. shame to have a trip end this way. Hard to call this a fail. Very few folks handle a situation like this so well.
coolrockclimberguy69

climber
Nov 28, 2014 - 07:05pm PT
We used a belay seat and a piece of plastic chair that I had found wedged in a crack to build his splint for his leg.

Gangster as f*#k. Nice job, gentlemen!
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Nov 28, 2014 - 07:22pm PT
Great job on a safe self rescue! The Pizza and beer will taste even better after you guys make it to the top next time!!
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Nov 28, 2014 - 08:52pm PT
good job.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Nov 28, 2014 - 09:02pm PT
Respect. Great job on the self-rescue.
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
Nov 28, 2014 - 09:30pm PT
With that attitude and ingenuity, you will go far!
WBraun

climber
Nov 28, 2014 - 09:34pm PT
Years ago there was a party that came down from the molar on mescalito.

Bones sticking out.

Party self rescued from high up on Zenith with full blown shoulder out of the socket.

Some in credible self rescues over the years ......
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 28, 2014 - 10:28pm PT
This case was admirable but you could do yourself some serious harm by
self-rescuing if it resulted in lengthening the time a limb suffered from
impeded blood flow or nerve impingement. Not to mention you could miss
Happy Hour at the Mountain Room.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Nov 28, 2014 - 10:35pm PT
Nice job on the self rescue.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Nov 28, 2014 - 10:48pm PT
Proud finish.

Partner had a similar break, pretty rough getting to the deck.

Thoughts of beer and pizza.....
shylock

Social climber
mb
Nov 29, 2014 - 08:21am PT
Hey I was in the party that was up there with you guys... awesome to hear you all made it down ok. Awesome job pulling it off. Definitely the right decision it seems.

I tried to contact Clay to get him all the gear back, but if any of you guys want to message me an address, that'd be great.




Hope you heal up quick man.. Hey, all the more memorable.

-Brian
couchmaster

climber
Nov 29, 2014 - 08:35am PT
"Clay fell onto the ledge when his piece blew falling 30 feet on the camp five pitch. Broke his tib fib. We used a belay seat and a piece of plastic chair that I had found wedged in a crack to build his splint for his leg. About two rolls of climbing tape later we had made a pretty damn good air cast. Freddy took off with the pig and put clay in the middle for repels. 18 raps later we were at the base. Clay rapped on a gri so he could slide on one side of his body down the wall keeping the left broken leg on the outside . Carried him out to the meadow and asked some sweds to call an ambulance. Thanks for the water btw. That was our first time on the nose. Won't be our last! Cheers!"

Wow.
mynameismud

climber
backseat
Nov 29, 2014 - 11:34am PT
Damn
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Nov 29, 2014 - 11:41am PT
"That was our first time on the nose."


Well done, indeed.

You guys should teach beginning rock climbing courses, injecting the importance of personal responsibility.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Nov 29, 2014 - 12:05pm PT
Proud. Tib and fib? That's a lot more than an ankle. You guys are in a small club.
Fossil climber

Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
Nov 29, 2014 - 03:17pm PT
Nice work, you guys!
Messages 1 - 33 of total 33 in this topic
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