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Messages 1 - 33 of total 33 in this topic |
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 27, 2014 - 10:37am PT
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I don't know any details, but yesterday a little after noon I glassed up the Nose and saw this cat hanging out in the middle of nowhere with a pig but no rope. Huh. Definitely not something you see everyday.
A few minutes later a fella with what looked like an aircast showed up with a rope.
If he was in any pain, he sure wasn't showing it. These two were soon joined by another. I didn't stick around to see how it turned out, but it looked like they had things more or less under control. Kudos.
We lost ~ 25 meters of a brand new rope deep inside Bishop's Terrace that morning, but this really put things in perspective. I hope they got down safely and the guy in the cast heals well!
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Nov 27, 2014 - 12:17pm PT
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Hanging up there with no rope would be a little unsettling. Love to hear the rest of the story
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Nov 27, 2014 - 12:29pm PT
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Always a good story when you and the pig are ropeless at a belay.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 27, 2014 - 12:32pm PT
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Doesn't look like it was about to start snowing.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 27, 2014 - 03:22pm PT
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Broke his ankle on a fall on the pitch off Camp 5.
Retreated on his own power to the ground and even made it out to the road from there,
Bad ass .....
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2014 - 05:16pm PT
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Bad ass .....
Yeah he certainly looked calm, cool, and collected. Rapping down on one foot like it was just another day. Brought back a few memories, and I wonder what his precise injury was. When I shattered my talus, I actually didn't have any pain at all, so long as it wasn't touching anything. This led the ER Dr. to mis-diagnose the dislocation and send me home. Not cool.
Anyway, glad to hear they got down without further incident.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Nov 27, 2014 - 08:46pm PT
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So did he really have an air cast in his kit?
Now, THAT, is bad ass! Preparatory repairatory!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Nov 28, 2014 - 05:33am PT
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Broke his ankle on a fall on the pitch off Camp 5.
How many accidents for this pitch? I recall an accident in Sept in the area.
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Techy Mantle
Boulder climber
Boulder, CO
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Nov 28, 2014 - 03:21pm PT
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Clay fell onto the ledge when his piece blew falling 30 feet on the camp five pitch. Broke his tib fib. We used a belay seat and a piece of plastic chair that I had found wedged in a crack to build his splint for his leg. About two rolls of climbing tape later we had made a pretty damn good air cast. Freddy took off with the pig and put clay in the middle for repels. 18 raps later we were at the base. Clay rapped on a gri so he could slide on one side of his body down the wall keeping the left broken leg on the outside . Carried him out to the meadow and asked some sweds to call an ambulance. Thanks for the water btw. That was our first time on the nose. Won't be our last! Cheers!
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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Nov 28, 2014 - 03:24pm PT
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VERY well done, fellas. What an exemplary self-rescue. Your story should be broadcast....loudly!
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CA.Timothy
climber
California
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Nov 28, 2014 - 03:27pm PT
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impressive. makes me realize that I am totally unprepared for most self rescue situations
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Gene
climber
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Nov 28, 2014 - 03:29pm PT
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Respect to the team. Fine job!
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Nov 28, 2014 - 03:34pm PT
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You ruined the story by telling us you called an ambulance. Clay would have been a legend if he had retreated to the Mountain Room for a drink, brandy of course.
Great job getting off, how long did it take?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Nov 28, 2014 - 03:37pm PT
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VERY well done, fellas. What an exemplary self-rescue. Your story should be broadcast....loudly!
Indeed! And quite badass as well.
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Techy Mantle
Boulder climber
Boulder, CO
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Nov 28, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
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Thanks for the support everyone. We just wanted to get our brother down. That night we went to curry and got a pizza and beers. Best pizza and beer I've ever had.
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Techy Mantle
Boulder climber
Boulder, CO
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Nov 28, 2014 - 03:45pm PT
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John beck, it took us 5 hours to get down to the meadow,roughly.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Nov 28, 2014 - 04:38pm PT
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Nice going guys.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 28, 2014 - 06:59pm PT
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5hrs down.. very solid, seems you guys had your stuff together.. shame to have a trip end this way. Hard to call this a fail. Very few folks handle a situation like this so well.
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coolrockclimberguy69
climber
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Nov 28, 2014 - 07:05pm PT
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We used a belay seat and a piece of plastic chair that I had found wedged in a crack to build his splint for his leg.
Gangster as f*#k. Nice job, gentlemen!
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Nov 28, 2014 - 07:22pm PT
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Great job on a safe self rescue! The Pizza and beer will taste even better after you guys make it to the top next time!!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Nov 28, 2014 - 08:52pm PT
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good job.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Nov 28, 2014 - 09:02pm PT
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Respect. Great job on the self-rescue.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Nov 28, 2014 - 09:30pm PT
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With that attitude and ingenuity, you will go far!
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 28, 2014 - 09:34pm PT
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Years ago there was a party that came down from the molar on mescalito.
Bones sticking out.
Party self rescued from high up on Zenith with full blown shoulder out of the socket.
Some in credible self rescues over the years ......
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 28, 2014 - 10:28pm PT
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This case was admirable but you could do yourself some serious harm by
self-rescuing if it resulted in lengthening the time a limb suffered from
impeded blood flow or nerve impingement. Not to mention you could miss
Happy Hour at the Mountain Room.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Nov 28, 2014 - 10:35pm PT
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Nice job on the self rescue.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Nov 28, 2014 - 10:48pm PT
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Proud finish.
Partner had a similar break, pretty rough getting to the deck.
Thoughts of beer and pizza.....
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Nov 29, 2014 - 08:21am PT
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Hey I was in the party that was up there with you guys... awesome to hear you all made it down ok. Awesome job pulling it off. Definitely the right decision it seems.
I tried to contact Clay to get him all the gear back, but if any of you guys want to message me an address, that'd be great.
Hope you heal up quick man.. Hey, all the more memorable.
-Brian
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couchmaster
climber
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Nov 29, 2014 - 08:35am PT
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"Clay fell onto the ledge when his piece blew falling 30 feet on the camp five pitch. Broke his tib fib. We used a belay seat and a piece of plastic chair that I had found wedged in a crack to build his splint for his leg. About two rolls of climbing tape later we had made a pretty damn good air cast. Freddy took off with the pig and put clay in the middle for repels. 18 raps later we were at the base. Clay rapped on a gri so he could slide on one side of his body down the wall keeping the left broken leg on the outside . Carried him out to the meadow and asked some sweds to call an ambulance. Thanks for the water btw. That was our first time on the nose. Won't be our last! Cheers!"
Wow.
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mynameismud
climber
backseat
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Nov 29, 2014 - 11:34am PT
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Damn
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Nov 29, 2014 - 11:41am PT
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"That was our first time on the nose."
Well done, indeed.
You guys should teach beginning rock climbing courses, injecting the importance of personal responsibility.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 29, 2014 - 12:05pm PT
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Proud. Tib and fib? That's a lot more than an ankle. You guys are in a small club.
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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Nov 29, 2014 - 03:17pm PT
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Nice work, you guys!
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