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Messages 1 - 31 of total 31 in this topic |
couchmaster
climber
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Nov 21, 2014 - 04:29pm PT
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That's awesome Chris, a short letter from Bonny saying that it was from Bob's gear stash would help the provenance and increase the price you folks get. Nice parks service photo showing the piton. Bidding is going up now.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Nov 21, 2014 - 04:57pm PT
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agreed, a short letter would be awesome, and would probably double what I bid
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 21, 2014 - 06:06pm PT
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Like a fine samurai steel these hand forged steel tools where created by cavemen in days long past not like modern tools made by robots or politards.
These fine pitons enabled these men to access the natural weakness these huge beast of granite walls gave to ascend them.
Not like modern robots drilling their way up blank faces.
Buy this piece of history, rub the steel thru your hands and feel the spirits of the cavemen pioneers blood sweat and tears ......
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Nov 21, 2014 - 06:34pm PT
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Well, I did my bit and got the bid over $120.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Nov 21, 2014 - 08:03pm PT
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YAY, Bonnie!!! ")
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 21, 2014 - 10:09pm PT
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Nicely put Werner.
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wheatBeer
Social climber
TheBronx
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Nov 22, 2014 - 01:06am PT
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Is there a chance that this piton was used on the FA of the Nose and other historic climbs? Sure sounds like it.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Nov 22, 2014 - 09:49am PT
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I had an unused Dolt 3/4 angle, at one time. For some reason, I misplaced it years ago, and still can't find it. Damn
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Gorn
Trad climber
las vegas, NV
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Nov 26, 2014 - 10:54pm PT
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I grew up in Ogden, UT (where the Lowe clan also grew up) One day in the early 1990's my climbing partner of many years, the late Ken Gygi, recruited me to belay him on an obscure crack/roof pitch several hundred feet up on a quartzite cliff face towering above north Ogden. This was the Macabre Roof, and it was reportedly first climbed by a young Greg Lowe in the late 1960's.
After completing the moderately easy approach pitches, we arrived at the roof pitch. It was very overhanging but had a pretty nice crack all the way that would take gear. Midway up the crack, there were pitons that were no longer secure in the crack...they had just fallen down into the crack and got wedged after decades of weathering. Ken was one of the best free climbers in the area at that time, a solid 5.11 climber. He was placing cams and got to the crux near the top with some difficulty. However, he had to hangdog a couple times thru the crux, but got to the end of the route without having to pull aid.
The anchor was just a piece of webbing on a couple angles. I followed the route, and had to basically aid climb the thing because it was so strenuous and over my head. When I joined Ken at the top, I noticed the original webbing had lichens on it, and was so brittle that it crackled when you bent it! No way it would have been safe to rap on it, so we placed new webbing. Above the anchor was a blank wall, so we surmised that no one had been on top of this route in a very long time, probably not since Greg Lowe had done it. I have been told that, at the time, it was the hardest free route ever done in the country. I believe the rating is 5.11c today.
Ken returned the next year with another partner and a video camera and did the Macabre Roof totally free. This was likely the second ascent of this little known but historic route. I have had one of those original pitons hanging on my wall for over 20 years now. I used to look at it as a cool piece of history, something that the hands of a Lowe once held and drove into the rock while doing the hardest free route in the country.
Nowadays, I look at it and mostly think of my good friend Ken, who lost his life doing what he loved most: climbing.
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Nov 27, 2014 - 09:11am PT
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$500.00
Been known to bring back spirits: through dreams.
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Farley
Mountain climber
Portland, Oregon
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Nov 27, 2014 - 12:20pm PT
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Chris -
A bit more information about how the monster made its way from the Valley and Dolt's participation in the El Cap attempt to the hands of Kamps and Reardon for the Diamond FA would be helpful...
fascinating stuff!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 28, 2014 - 12:15pm PT
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Just under four hours to bid on this rare and splendid historical artifact in support of a more than worthy cause!
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Nov 28, 2014 - 01:45pm PT
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This piece of history with letter of authenticity from Bonnie Kamps has go to be worth at least the value of the stove leg piton Chessler has offered for $1,500, and goes to the most worthy cause of saving lives.
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ClimbingOn
Trad climber
NY
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Nov 28, 2014 - 04:14pm PT
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Well done. Congrats to the buyer and the ASCA. A win for all.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Nov 28, 2014 - 04:23pm PT
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Thanks to Bonnie Kamps for donating it to help ASCA
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 29, 2014 - 10:38am PT
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NICE!
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Nov 29, 2014 - 05:10pm PT
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Awesome!
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Thank to all involved for making it available! Luckily, this important piece of North American climbing history will be preserved for the public.
Had a great email exchange with Bonnie recently. She is a woman of integrity and I appreciate that. It's a value I cherish deeply.
To be clear this piton was used by Bob Kamps and Dave Rearick on The Diamond FA. It was not used on The Nose as originally mentioned. Regardless, D1 was a major climb and warrants the attention it receives.
Support The ASCA when you can....
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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The Rearick piton being an early one was likely formed and shaped from flat sheet stock and the later one looks to have been formed from angle stock if the spine has a well defined line along it as it appears to.
You can readily see the advantage in durability produced by the welding around the eye which makes Dolt angles unique in their craftsmanship. Chouinard, SMC and CMI all used a beefy rivet instead producing a less expensive but ultimately less durable product.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Thanks for the insight Steve - wonderful information.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Russ - fair question...the answer is YES. Not sure where or when but it'll happen. Been working towards my museum goal for 15 years, probably need at least another 10 as I am primarily self funded.
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