Discussion Topic |
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 19, 2014 - 12:16am PT
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whatevs. I got my own vee four proj here in town.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 19, 2014 - 02:47am PT
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All the hard pitches, which leaves 3 5.13 and 8 5.12 pitches up higher, but that is still big news.
I think it means the crux traverse pitches and the dyno pitch were redpointed.
[edited after Vlad posted the topo]
Oh my goodness!!! After six years I finally sent this beast of a pitch. Inspired by Keven's fight to the death near miss.This officially means all the hard individual pitches have been redpointed. I am so psyched my hands are shaking! Thanks for the rad photo @jeffjohnson_beyondandback http://www.facebook.com/pages/Tommy-Caldwell/180070212030430
(cool photo of Tommy leading traverse pitch at dusk with a headlamp; I'm unable to link it directly)
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Nov 19, 2014 - 03:30am PT
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^^ that IS a cool image!
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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Nov 19, 2014 - 06:57am PT
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Tremendous news!
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Nov 19, 2014 - 07:01am PT
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Wow, that's big news. Pretty inspiring!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Nov 19, 2014 - 08:35am PT
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Imagine the mix of emotions when it all comes together in a single push with no falls- after working so hard for so long on something so close to impossible, with very few if any peers in the world to fully appreciate the extent of commitment required. Pretty out there.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 19, 2014 - 09:01am PT
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Great! Now stringing them together in one push awaits.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Nov 19, 2014 - 09:48am PT
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Rad, Tognar (Totally Gnarly), Bitchin, Cool, Excellent…..Give 'er!!!!! Git 'er done!!!!
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2014 - 11:43am PT
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Great! Now stringing them together in one push awaits.
Here you go Jim!
According to Jorgeson, the team will now take a week of rest for Thanksgiving "to let our bodies rest."
"Then, if all goes to plan, we will prepare for a send push some time in December."
Stay tuned ...
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Nov 19, 2014 - 12:49pm PT
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I like this summation from Deadpoint magazine;
Tommy and Kevin plan to attempt a ground up, in-a-push, free ascent sometime in December as the weather allows. Freeing the line in a push is the logical next step and considered by many to be the accomplishment necessary to call the route “sent.” But yesterday’s success could be the most momentous occasion in the evolution of the Dawn Wall project. With all the pitches redpointed, the style of ascent can only be improved upon. Generations of future climbers now have a free route on El Cap to push standards on: in-a-push, in-a-day, no-falls ascents, speed records, and onsight attempts (as ridiculous as all that may sound).
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Nov 19, 2014 - 12:54pm PT
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This is awesome! However, I'm a bit confused. I was under the impression that there are three 5.14+ pitches on the wall. Tommy freed the middle one last year - the second traverse pitch. This picture appears to be of the first traverse pitch and probably the hardest one on the route. When was the dyno pitch freed? Anyone have an idea? [edited - I see they haven't redpointed the "easy" 13+ pitches]
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Nov 19, 2014 - 12:55pm PT
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Dawn @ dusk
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 19, 2014 - 01:02pm PT
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Climbing mag suggests the 5.13+ pitches above the traverse have not been red pointed but freed on top rope. But they aren't "hard" pitches apparently to these guys…..
I hope the weather works out so they can get a ground-up ascent.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Nov 19, 2014 - 01:03pm PT
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One of the best El Cap pix ever!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
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Nov 19, 2014 - 02:40pm PT
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That IS a great pic, huh?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 19, 2014 - 02:46pm PT
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Beautiful pic! It's rare that i get excited about an upcoming climbing event but this one has me jacked.
There are three elements, in my mind, that make this special:
the unbelievable dogged determination over so many years
the even more unbelievable talent of the climbers
the fact that they are such humble, down to earth, great guys
Best wishes!
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Nov 19, 2014 - 05:57pm PT
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That is a great picture.
Psyched for the team and staying tuned...
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Nov 19, 2014 - 06:08pm PT
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I just saw that post on FB.
The amount of work that this route has taken totally dwarfs all of the other free routes on El Cap, and I think Tommy has done all of them in quick time.
I have just been hoping that they send it before they get old!
If you have ever aided any of those pitches, the idea of freeing them will blow your mind.
It is also naturally cold on that part of the wall, even in May. It is wild that they have to do it when it is so cold.
Here I am freezing my ass off while belaying the molar over 30 years ago:
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 19, 2014 - 06:12pm PT
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Balaclava + shorts = Californian? :-)
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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Nov 19, 2014 - 10:14pm PT
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That photo is great. Good observation, Clint!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 19, 2014 - 10:41pm PT
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I hope the weather works out so they can get a ground-up ascent. My thoughts, too.
Cool weather (night, even) is needed for the desperate face traverse pitches.
But the cool season could also bring rain/snow, and wet spots on pitches could mean no go.
Add to that the challenge of trying to stay strong enough after a couple of days of extreme pitches,
and multiple tries needed on the crux pitches.
So an "in-a-push" ascent could be very difficult to pull off.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Nov 20, 2014 - 06:30am PT
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Balaclava + shorts = Californian? :-)
Nope. Okie....That was in May, and after the sun left the wall it would get pretty chilly.
Clint, yes, they talked about the project several years ago. The holds are smaller than hooking edges. They can burn through a pair of shoes, and I can't remember which type, in a single pitch.
Totally amazing accomplishment. Now let's hope that they can put it all together.
There is a fair amount of info out there if you Google it.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Nov 20, 2014 - 08:03am PT
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Absolutely amazing feat. If anyone can pull this off, it's TC! Go dog go, get er done!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 20, 2014 - 02:08pm PT
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Has nobody bagged on "guaranteed outcome climbing" yet?
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Nov 20, 2014 - 03:35pm PT
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Once the route is " sent " it will be interesting to see who
will step up for the second ascent and when . I imagine this
will be a who's who route for awhile.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Nov 20, 2014 - 04:52pm PT
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If he/they (don't forget KJ!) send this season I'll miss seeing their portaledge up there late in the year.
It's rad to look out from some belay ledge or from your window as you start your drive home and see them there at the mf'ing vanguard.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Nov 20, 2014 - 05:26pm PT
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Not sure about that Ground Up. If seconds were significant I'd think the Dihedral wall would have seen a repeat by now. Certainly a stunning line.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Nov 22, 2014 - 10:28am PT
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Modern free climbing is dominated by severely overhanging lines. The holds are visible. Just go to youtube and watch Adam Ondra or Chris Sharma working on the hardest routes in the world.
This is very different. Being only vertical, it is now considered a "slab," and requires very different technique. Tommy and Kevin are probably the best in the world with this type of climbing. It just isn't popular. Look at a place like Rifle. Overhanging limestone is where it is at. That cave in Norway is supposedly metamorphic rock, but it is similar to other overhanging lines.
I don't see a route like this being popular for very long. If you look at the best climbers in the world, very few of them would be interested in 5.14C micro-edges.
The hottest climbing areas are now all caves.
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jwreed
Gym climber
Tualatin OR
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Nov 26, 2014 - 10:33am PT
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I've been following the progress of this ascent with interest, even though I have no designs on actually climbing the route myself. I thought I could take a picture of the wall, though, having looked at it often enough. So here it is, near dawn, in June, 2014. If the style of the photo looks a little old-fashioned it might be because the camera is old, and the lens, also: a Schneider Xenar from 1933.
It was a little hazardous, I thought, mucking about on all that talus, and setting up the tripod.
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phile
Trad climber
SF, CA
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What are the rules for a team free-in-a-push route? One member frees each pitch, unlimited attempts? Can you retreat to base camps and jug to your high point?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Yeah. This new generation has surely seized the torch, hasn't it Jim. Our young geniuses.
JW Reed's wonderful image from a Schneider Xenar of 1933, lightly pimped:
I wonder what Warren AND Royal would think now that this route has been "proven" for a free climb.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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From what I've seen of the topo, the pitches are mostly on Mescalito and only a few on Dawn.
They needed to go left after the Molar to a few pitches on the Dihedrals on Dawn,
to avoid Mescalito's blank headwall (rivet ladder) below the Bismarck.
Then back to Mescalito after going up the left side Bismarck crack.
Still, the Dihedrals are closed and mostly a rivet ladder,
so I'm surprised freeing them is not one of the cruxes.
I guess the traverse to reach them is simply a whole lot blanker.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Whole different level of climbing....
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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The dihedrals are super hard 5.13 and low 5.14. Not the cruxes of this route, but still among the hardest free pitches on the cliff!
The route also cuts left after the Seagull for a few pitches of Adrift. then rejoins Mescalito 2 pitches below the Molar.
They are calling it the Dawn Wall Project in reference to the part of the cliff rather than the route "New Dawn".
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Cool - I had wondered how they got around the Seagull but hadn't looked at the topo closely.
Tommy/Kevin sighting: On Sunday night at 7:30pm, we saw their headlamps a pitch apart, maybe up at The Dihedrals. Saw their vans at El Cap Meadow, too. So they are getting some climbing in between storms.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Dec 29, 2014 - 07:50pm PT
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"We sent the first five pitches this afternoon (12b, 13a, 13c, 12b, 12d wet)."
Yesterday the team was at it again, this time redpointing up to 5.14a on the Big Stone.
"Oh yeah? Pitches 6-9 done today," posted Caldwell. "Winter conditions are feeling awesome."
Jorgeson broke down yesterday's pitches in detail:
Pitch 6, 13c: Tommy led first go and I followed on TR first go (pictured).
Pitch 7, 14a: I sent second go and Tommy sent first go.
Pitch 8, 13d: Tommy sent in three goes and I sent in two. Sharp!
Pitch 9, 13c: I sent second go and Tommy sent first go.
Nine pitches in two days at those grades... Damn!
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2014 - 09:29pm PT
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The test will be those middle pitches. Hope the weather holds.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 29, 2014 - 10:22pm PT
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Log of progress (I may not be able to edit this after about 10 days):
1. (12/27) p1-5. 5.12b, 5.13a, 5.13c, 5.12b, 5.12d wet Tom Evans shots of day 1
2. (12/28) p6-9. 5.13c, 5.14a, 5.13d, 5.13c Tom Evans shots of day 2
3. (12/29) p10. 5.14 wet / mega to start of Molar Traverse Tom Evans shots of day 3
4. (12/30) rest day
5. (12/31) p11-12. 5.13c (extended version of topo p11, probably), 5.14b arch on Molar Traverse Tom Evans shots of day 5
6. (1/1) p13-14. 5.13c Molar to Dike, 5.14d Dike Traverse I Tom Evans photos day 6
(Note: p12 Molar Traverse on the topo below was split into 2 pitches,
so numbering of the remaining pitches is changed)
7. (1/2) rest day
8. (1/3) p15. 5.14d Dike Traverse II - Tommy redpointed, Kevin came close Tom Evans photos day 8
9. (1/4) p15. 5.14d Dike Traverse II - Kevin tried at 6pm but fell on the crux move at the end when the tape came off his fingers.
p16. 5.14+ Dyno or 5.14a Loop - Tommy led the Loop version free, with Kevin belaying. Tom Evans photos day 9
10. (1/5) rest day
Next up:
p16b - second half of pitch above Loop ("hard liebacking" on topo)
p17-19 5.13c, 5.13c, 5.13c/d to Wino Tower
p20-27 5.12 and 5.11
p28 5.12 or 5.13a
p29 5.12 to top
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 29, 2014 - 10:45pm PT
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Alex just rapped down to scope out the hard pitch for the 2nd ascent...solo.
JK/LOL ;-)
Great work Gentlemen!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Dec 30, 2014 - 04:02am PT
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climb ! Stoke Isee climb at night (Barrels? like the original fuel?)
or batten down there is a storm!
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kshenk
Trad climber
El Portal, CA
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Dec 30, 2014 - 01:16pm PT
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 30, 2014 - 09:06pm PT
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More details on day 3 / p10:
Wonder what Pitch 10 looks like? Here's a great shot from Brett Lowell of Big UP Productions.
Day 3 was supposed to be a rest day, but there's some seriously cold and windy weather on the horizon. So, we decided to push through the fatigue left over from pitches 1-9 and climb today anyway.
The goal was simple. Pitch 10, 5.14a.
50' of two finger pin scar lie backing protected by 7 consecutive beaks leads to a 20' permanently wet section for both hands and feet. Nails. After a good rest where you can dry your hands and shoes, you climb 35' of 5.12 terrain. This all leads up to a crux undercling boulder problem capped by a nerve wracking, tenuous face traverse to the anchors (pictured).
After 3 attempts each, Tommy Caldwell and I both sent. Now for a rest day! from
http://www.facebook.com/kjorgeson?fref=nf
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dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
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Dec 30, 2014 - 09:21pm PT
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wow... and that's not even the crux. Unbelievable!! I have a feeling that they are going to do it this time!
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Dec 31, 2014 - 08:14am PT
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That lower picture of the portaledges shows that they went straight up on the Dawn Wall, or even left of it, instead of climbing that right leaning crack that leads to the molar.
Or they may just be bivying there because it is a good safe spot.
Is there any news?
edit: I just checked Kevin's Facebook Page and they took a rest day. They are probably climbing again right now.
Rough rest day on the wall....watchin Netflix 1,200 feet up El Cap....
He has posted a few goodies, if you are on FB:
https://www.facebook.com/kjorgeson
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2014 - 08:17am PT
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They have ropes all over the wall to move around. The actual route does, I believe, go up the right leaning crack to the Molar. If you check Tom's El Cap Report, you can see some shots Tommy climbing through the obvious wet streak in that leaning crack.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 31, 2014 - 10:26am PT
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Rough rest day on the wall....watchin Netflix 1,200 feet up El Cap....
Why not just get down and hang out in the Valley? They have the whole El Cap fixed with dozens of different people coming up to take videos, bringing food/water and to hang out.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Dec 31, 2014 - 11:25am PT
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I believe they are trying to do a continuous push and not come back to the valley floor until it is done?
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 31, 2014 - 11:28am PT
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I was just out there in El cap meadow.
Eric was the only guy out there.
Man oh man is it cold and windy to boot.
Freezing ass cold .....
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Dec 31, 2014 - 12:08pm PT
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The rules of big wall free climbing make about as much sense as the rules of Tennis : /
15-love!
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 31, 2014 - 12:40pm PT
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Kevin
Eric said these guys are resting today.
Me I would have run away to to the heater.
My room is nice 80 degrees right now ..... aaaahhhhh so nice :-)
Tomorrow they will attack again?
I'll go to the cookie and do one pitch and then finished.
Old man can't do sh!t when it's this cold.
The river is freezing solid.
I think their anchors are gonna freeze and crumble.
They might have a blow torch up there to keep the anchors warm?
I asked Eric where's Tom. Tom's hiding in the cafe.
Pussy ... hee hee
Anyways Happy New Year bro ........
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sempervirens
climber
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Dec 31, 2014 - 01:01pm PT
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A page or two back there is a brief mention that this project must be done in cold weather. Why?
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 31, 2014 - 01:08pm PT
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So your hands don't sweat, the rock is clean from airborne pollutants (after the rains), your shoe rubber is at it tackiest point.
Although if it's too cold maybe then it won't work so well?
Better ask those guys up there, holler up to em.
They would know what's working the best right now.
I only know one thing.
It's way too cold and windy today ...
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Dec 31, 2014 - 01:10pm PT
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This particular wall is quite hot a lot of the year and rubber is stiffer when cold and thus better on all the micro-edges they are using. You hands won't be sweating much either. I would think too, there aren't regular parties going up the routes of this zone on El Cap.
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2014 - 10:02pm PT
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I'm guessing that the topo we are all looking at needs an update, seeing as the topo Clint re-posted (which went public a year or two ago) says pitch 11 goes at 12+, but Tom's El Cap Report (thanks Tom!) lists the 11th pitch, which went down today, at 13c. That's quite a difference. Maybe the belay was moved, changing the difficulty of the pitch?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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the topo Clint re-posted (which went public a year or two ago) says pitch 11 goes at 12+, but Tom's El Cap Report (thanks Tom!) lists the 11th pitch, which went down today, at 13c. That's quite a difference. Maybe the belay was moved, changing the difficulty of the pitch? Yeah, I think they probably moved the belay (11) up, to make it slightly easier to redpoint the remainder of the old p12.
Similarly, they split the first dike traverse pitch last year.
Tommy's facebook post suggests the current first part of the first dike traverse is 5.12d. (Might be a typo, though, as the last thing he led last year was 5.14d).
Day 5 on the #DawnWall. After resting yesterday, the boys put down pitches 11 and 12 today. When we shot their push in 2010, 12 was the pitch that shut down @kjorgeson, so getting through it today marked a team high point. Now the crux 5.14+ traverse pitches loom next. @tommycaldwell sending 11 pictured here, photo @brettlowell from BigUpClimbing Instagram:
http://instagram.com/p/xTOImmOzrZ/
and
This New Year's Eve was great on the Dawn Wall. We climbed pitch 11 and 12 and they felt awesome. This means Kevin blasted by hishigh point and I am 1 12d pitch away from my high point. Now we really get into the meat of it. photo @brettlowell from
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Tommy-Caldwell/180070212030430
and
A few friends needed groceries so I brought eggs, cucumbers, crackers, salami, bourbon, and candy to the guys on the Dawn Wall. The ice blocks crashed onto camp once but conditions seemed perfect. Kevin managed to redpoint Pitch 12, a 5.14b technical arch for the first time. he was probably motivated by the sour Skittles. Tommy sent as well. This is the 3rd 5.14 pitch. The boys are entering the meat of the climb with 5 5.14+ pitches in a row. Shine the lights boys @tommycaldwell @kjorgeson @patagonia from
http://www.facebook.com/james.clayton.lucas?fref=nf
and
Day 5 Recap: New Year's Eve
Yesterday was equal parts exhilarating and utterly terrifying.
The day began with a series of major ice falls right above our camp. It's hard to describe the feeling of helplessness as you watch huge chunks of ice explode and plummet toward you. A direct hit by the large chunks would have been serious. Maybe it wasn't actually that bad....Maybe we got lucky. Depends on how you look at it I suppose. Either way, I had a little anxiety stored up throughout the day as a result. My eyes rarely left the skyline unless I was climbing.
Oh right, the climbing. The goal for the day was to get through the Molar Traverse, 5.14b, which shut me down on our 2010 push. First, we had to climb the awkward corner of Pitch 11, which Tommy led like a champ and I followed on TR (pictured). Then, it was time to throw down on Pitch 12. I went up once to quickly rehearse the moves, then began lead attempts. On my first go, I numbed out and fell onto a fixed pin at the crux (backed up by a 000 C3). On my next go, everything went smooth and I managed to redpoint the pitch! After a few warm up attempts, Tommy followed on TR and we called it a night!
Now, we get to the meat of the route: three consecutive pitches of 5.14/+. Game on.
Thanks to Big UP Productions for the photo!
adidas Outdoor from
http://www.facebook.com/kjorgeson?fref=nf
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Just got a text from Kevin (1:03 PM). Says, "Starting momentarily."
So they're into the crux traversing pitches as I write this. They battle through the next 3 leads and they are well set up for the send, if the weather and their tips hold out.
Thar she blows!
JL
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WBraun
climber
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I was just out there and it's much warmer today without the winds.
The only guy cold is Tom, he's standing in the shade.
There's a hell of a lot people showing up in the meadow compared to none yesterday.
I think they're all flying in today on their Lear jets to see some kind of show up there.
Anyways it's like watching paint dry standing around in the meadows while the little ants up there barely move at times ......
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Bring hot choco and whisky!!
Send it, lads....
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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hard work up there
for not gettin paid.
i was working for free today
too, and i thought of el
cap's upper canopy
and the gents sending
postcards home,
it goes free.
send money.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Day 6. (1/1) p13-14. 5.13c Molar to Dike, 5.14d - Dike Traverse I
Tonight, I sent the hardest pitch of my life and the hardest on the Dawn Wall! Best of all, Tommy sent right after me! Pitch 14 (the first traverse) is in the bag! #dawnwall
Thanks to Jeff Johnson for the photo!
adidas Outdoor from
http://www.facebook.com/kjorgeson?fref=nf
and
Oh snap. The hardest pitch got sent by both of us tonight. I might be in a little shock right now. The route is taking a toll on our fingertips as we are now both climbing with taped up fingertips, but it doesn't seem to be slowing us down too much. Oh yeah!!!! Phot by @brettlowell from
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Tommy-Caldwell/180070212030430
and
Brett's-eye view of filming the action on the #DawnWall today, as both @kjorgeson and @tommycaldwell sent pitch 14, the 5.14+ traverse pitch that may be the crux of the whole route. Kevin had never redpointed it before and Tommy got stopped here on both of his previous attempts from the ground, in 2010 and 2011. It's a new high point, and a huge morale booster that it went down for both on the first day of attempts. It's a happy new year indeed up on El Cap! from
http://instagram.com/p/xV3mDuOzs7/?modal=true
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Thanks for the updates! This is so cool
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2015 - 10:55pm PT
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Whoop!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Kevin is hosting a Questions & Answers session starting at 4pm today west coast time. Here is the link he put up on his Facebook page:
http://t.co/gp5azwUFDN
He promises to answer as many Qs as he can.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Great report by Bisharat.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Any word on if pitch 15 went down today?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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I think both sent. Heard lots of cheering and clapping twice as they finished some traversing madness.
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LEG
climber
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this is freaking awesome!
any confirmation on P15?
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2015 - 08:18pm PT
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Tom just posted this on the other thread, just in case folks look over here:
Big day today... Tommy sent the crux 15th on the second go. It was dark when I left the meadow and kevin was about to do the pitch. Beautiful moon tonight and photographers lights on the wall will help Kevin see the micro holds. New York times reporter came out today and did an interview as they are going to run a story on the sports page. Lots of shivering people watching the climbing today... ElCap Report going up later on the day.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Tommy says that this Loop variation is probably only 5.14a.
So easy? Hahaha.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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boys are pimp!
at the summit,
tommy change your name:
dawn wall demarco,
el burlador del cap.
"the seducer of the captain...
the stone guest."
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2015 - 08:41am PT
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Looks like it is just the Dyno/Loop for Tommy and then "easier" (13c or under) climbing to the top! And sounds like Kevin is oh-so-close to p.15, which would then put him in the same position. Hope they can both make it together!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Right.
Day 8. (1/3) p15. 5.14d Dike Traverse II - Tommy redpointed, Kevin came close.
One step closer! I sent pitch 15 last night. Keven got oh so close several times. I am sure he could have done it if he didn't have to tape two key fingers. Weather it's getting hard to sleep forecast looks splitter! It's getting hard to sleep due to the excitement I feel. Photo @brettlowell taken form the most exposed spot on the planet. from
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Tommy-Caldwell/180070212030430
The New York Times article said Kevin gave 3 tries on p15.
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canyoncat
Social climber
SoCal
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Just read the NY Times. Nice write up. Hope the weather holds.
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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As usual, the comments in the Times article are the best part, e.g.
This is an assault on humanity's purpose in the world
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Chill, please advise. I don't find your quote in the NYT article cited above.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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cracks to penetrate / nubs to clench
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2015 - 09:51pm PT
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Clint: the topo you posted above, and your count of what is still left, looks like it may slightly understate a couple of pitches above the Dyno/Loop.
Erik's updated topo shows a pitch of 13d before Wino and a pitch of 13a between Wino and the summit (in addition to all the 12 and 11). Minor changes on a route with so much difficulty, but still significant.
Hope things went, or are going, well today!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Yeah, the pitch to Wino is 5.13d in Sloan's topo vs. 5.13c in the older topo.
And the 2nd pitch from the top is 5.13a in Sloan's topo vs. 5.12 in the older topo.
Given that these are estimates and the pitches have not been led yet,
I don't think these differences should change any expectations about how hard it will be for the guys to finish.
Hopefully they will make it, and the final topo may have more differences from these project topos.
The BigUpProductions Instagram says they are climbing tonight, on p15 and p16. Plus a photo of a $40k camera with those grey Canon Pro lenses that may not be able to do much at night.... :-)
http://instagram.com/p/xdBFOiuzhz/?modal=true
[Edit to add:]
According to Tom Evans' Day 9 El Cap Report,
Kevin fell at the crux move at the end of p15.
Tommy tried p16 but didn't free it.
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2015 - 10:28pm PT
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Damn. That a big gun. Guess that's for the "evening" before it actually gets dark.
Hoping for a low gravity evening on pitches 15 and 16!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Repeating stuff already on other threads:
Day 9. (1/4) p15. 5.14d Dike Traverse II - Kevin tried at 6pm but fell on the crux move at the end when the tape came off his fingers.
p16. 5.14a Loop version (first half of old topo pitch) - Tommy led this free, with Kevin belaying.
paraphrased from
http://www.facebook.com/Corey.Rich.Productions
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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jesus man i can't imagine
trippin on my dyke with the hole
world watchin.
im ashamed enough when paul Crawford
is holdin my rope.
actually paul Crawford is more audience
than the media's periscope.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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By the way can someone explain what is the giant fixed line that goes way into the woods is for? Is it for the camera crew work?
Not talking about the fixed lines that go all the way up the route, talking about a giant continuous line that must be 1,500 feet or so, at least?
I got to watch them climb a bit this weekend, and it felt kind of like witnessing history in the making. Pretty insane that they are so close to completing it. When I went top roping for my 2nd time in Donner Summit, in 2010 as I remember, Tommy gave a slideshow in which he talked about working on Dawn Wall. Great for him and Kevin to have all this hard work paying off. Hats off.
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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^^^^^^^^^
"Thanks to a 2700 foot long single 9mm rope"
Wow!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Local news headline KSBW8
2 men attempt most difficult climb in world at Yosemite's El Capitan Dawn Wall
UPDATED 6:02 PM PST Jan 05, 2015
NEXT STORY
Missing Salinas girl returns home
Text Size:AAA
Kevin Jorgeson, left, and Tommy Caldwell, right, are climbing El Capitan's Dawn Wall.brettlowell / instagram
VIEW LARGE
YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK, Calif. —Two men are roughly halfway up what has been called the hardest rock climb in the world: a free climb of a half-mile section of exposed granite in Yosemite National Park.
Tom Evans, a climber and photographer, has been chronicling Kevin Jorgeson. 30, of Santa Rosa, California, and Tommy Caldwell, 36, of Estes Park, Colorado, as they scale their way using only their hands and feet.
El Capitan, the largest monolith of granite in the world, rises more than 3,000 feet above the Yosemite Valley floor.
JORGESON AND THE WALL
Jorgeson and the wall
Kevin Jorgeson and Yosemite's El Capitan Dawn Wall
VIEW LARGE
CLIMBING ROUTE
Climbing route
Kevin Jorgeson
VIEW LARGE
The men eat, stretch and sleep in hanging tents suspended to El Capitan's Dawn Wall. They don't have the creature comforts of home, but they have kept in touch with the outside world thanks to social media --tweeting, posting on Facebook, feeding information for blogs and keeping in touch with a bevy of supporters on the ground.
"The guys are doing great," said Josh Lowell with Big Up Productions, which has been chronicling their climbs for the last six years. "(Monday) they are resting and trying to grow skin back on their fingertips so they can continue to do battle with the hardest climbing sections, which involve grabbing tiny, razor-sharp edges of rock," Lowell said.
If all goes as planned, the duo could be at the top as soon as Friday or Saturday, Lowell said.
"But that's best-case scenario. It could take several more days just to get through the difficult section where they currently are. If any weather moves in, that could also delay things, but the forecast is looking good for now," he said.
Many have climbed Dawn Wall but the pair would be the first to "free climb" the section using ropes only as a safeguard against falls. The first climber reached El Capitan's summit in 1958, and there are roughly 100 routes up to the top.
Evans said the two have a cellphone on their ascent, but they weren't taking calls Monday because they were resting and "want no distractions while on the cliff." The two also weren't answering emails from roughly 1,500 feet above the ground.
These practices may not seem unusual, but the climbers have relied heavily on social media to document their adventure. Both update their Facebook pages regularly and tweet from the Dawn Wall, which has been called "as smooth as alabaster, as steep as the bedroom wall."
Last Friday, Jorgeson hosted a live question-and-answer session from the wall.
Caldwell's wife', Becca, has also been blogging about their trip daily and wrote this post last weekend:
"Being up on the wall for over a week and the hard climbing Tommy and Kevin have done up until now adds an element of difficulty on top of the hard climbing they have to do," she wrote. "Imagine performing your very best after not walking for one week. I know Tommy has made an effort to try and do stretching, pushups, (and) yoga in the (hanging tent) hoping this might combat the unusual circumstances of living like veal between their climbing. So let's hope for big things today. This climb definitely won't be over until it's over, but I believe it's possible. Let's go boys!!!"
Jorgeson tweeted late Saturday about his difficulty scaling one section: "Battling. #dawnwall."
There are 32 sections of the climb. On Sunday night, Lowell said Caldwell, climbing in the dark, completed the last of the three hardest sections of climbing, which was a major breakthrough, Lowell said.
"He still has 1,500 feet of hard, scary climbing ahead, but mentally he is feeling really confident right now, and incredibly excited. (Jorgeson) is extremely close to completing pitch 15, one of the hardest. (Tuesday) he will try to complete it and catch up to Tommy so they can continue forging ahead."
In 1970, Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell (no relation to Tommy Caldwell) climbed Dawn Wall using ropes and countless rivets over 27 days.
The duo prepared for at least six years for the climb, according to friends and their personal websites. John Long, the first person to climb El Capitan in one day in 1975, said he speaks to the climbers several times a day.
"It's almost inconceivable that anyone could do something that continuously difficult," he said Monday, adding that he believes they spent the equivalent of a year's time on the wall in preparation for the climb.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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What a tremendous achievement in climbing.
Hats off.
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Great comments in the Guardian article. Mick Ryan steps up for the US in the face of the usual Guardianista anti-americanisms.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Difficult to read far into the comments section without succumbing to a deep despair for our species.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
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What's the ultimate goal? Start over and redpoint all pitches in one push? With pre-placed gear? Seems like linking all these pitches into one long route is the hardest part.
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dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
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what's the latest??
so for the loop pitch 16 that Tommy sent, does that somehow avoid/bypass the dyno? i hope Kevin gets pitch 15 today...
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2015 - 11:51am PT
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Don: redpointing all the pitches in a push is what is happening right now...
Dhayan: that's right. The Loop variation bypasses the Dyno, which Tommy has stuck, but thinks is too low percentage to focus on during this push I guess. Kevin still needs to tick pitch 15 (14+), and either the Dyno (14+) or the Loop (14-) for pitch 16. After the Dyno/Loop, things ease off in relative terms, with (out of order) one more 13d, two 13c, one 13a, and a bunch of 12 and 11 to the top.
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dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
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Thanks, sounds wild... that must be the hardest downclimb in the world... and yet still easier than the dyno! Looks like good weather, maybe even a bit too warm.
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Trad
Trad climber
northern CA
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There's a 7 or 8 minute interview (recorded yesterday) with Tommy and Kevin on today's All Things Considered on NPR. It'll air around 5:20 pm PST, or listen earlier on a station in a different time zone via the magic of the internet (or download the audio file later). It's mostly just them doing a polite job of explaining some climbing basics and the Dawn Wall project to the interviewer and 'general public', but was fun to hear nonetheless.
Link here:
http://www.npr.org/2015/01/06/375357301/free-climbing-yosemites-el-capitan-takes-a-team-and-time
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2015 - 03:02pm PT
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Man, I am a keen to follow this story as most folks (as testified by my continued posting to this thread), but the past two days seems like a tipping point in scrutiny.
I hope those guys are not too stressed or occupied with answering questions, whether the questions are good or bad. I'm not complaining about the social media stream or anything like that. How connected they are in their choice, and this is, after all, how they make their living--got to feed the family and all. My concern is that the distractions of NYT and NPR spectators (who, let's face it, are not really that interested at all--it's just the flavor of the moment, or nano-moment) will distract them from the task at hand.
Let the boys send. Interviews after. We can keep up with the progress with Tom's reports. Course, that's all their choice as well, as they can always turn off the cell phone!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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NYT and NPR spectators (who, let's face it, are not really that interested at all--it's just the flavor of the moment, or nano-moment) will distract them from the task at hand.
Just my opinion, but sitting in a portaledge on El Cap one can't help but focus on the task at hand, and the New York Times is a long, long ways away.
A few minutes to blurb on instagram per day (a few seconds, even) is hardly distracting.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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reminder that in the midst of this project, some dude, without NPR/New York Times/facebook posts, free-soloed Cerro Torre's most classic line in a storm, and is back on the ground having a beer
Not saying the Dawn Wall project isn't a big deal; not deriding the climbers' maintaining a social media presence; just find it strange what the masses find more interesting/laudable
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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It's kind of funny watching all the news coverage they call it the biggest piece of granite in the world they call it the steepest rock in the world they call it everything but what it is, the hardest rock climb in the world and an explanation of why.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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I saw a headline today on yahoo of a CBS story calling it the most dangerous climb in the world. Yuuuk.. Hardest free climb in the world hell yea! not even remotely close to most dangerous....
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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mike m wrote: "... they collect everything but what it is, the hardest rock climb in the world..."
that's the thing, it's not even necessarily the "hardest rock climb in the world".
assuming they succeed what it will be is "the hardest ground-supported and red-pointed, big wall free climb, as judged solely by amount and technical rating of the free climbing difficulty." [try explaining that to non-climbers]
which is why it gets dumbed down. [not using ropes!, extreme hiking!, hardest rock climb!...]
trying to explain all of the specialized branches of the contemporary climbing tree to a non-climber, hell even to most climbers, would take a book...
because if we're going to talk about "hardest rock climb" we need to consider things like caldwell and honnold's fitz traverse, cordes and wharton on trango, [yeah i get these had a bit of snow and ice, but when you take only one axe as in the first case or use a "kiddy axe" as they called it and a good 90% had to have been rock as in the second, I'm fine with calling them "rock climbs"] and even the latest 15c or wherever we're at, at this point..
which is the thing about this climb. yes, i'm as sucked in as anyone: it's super proud to project anything for 5 years. and there is no question that they are progressing a certain branch of the climbing family tree.
but this specific branch of exploration is one that has come with huge compromises to style.
if these guys had a cart with two bicycle wheels, we would have come completely full circle.
because, while what follows comes in some cases from reading between lines [and it's possible i may therefore be wrong about a couple of the details], there is a lot of this technical "advancement" that is coming purely at the price of stylistic "retreat":
 supplies are ferried either by others or by rope from the ground [no need to be self-contained or have to worry about whether you have enough food or water, etc.]
all pitches have been, where natural pro is not possible, pre-bolted [i'm assuming some at least were done on rap] so no need to worry about where and if there is pro
the difficult pitches have natural pro pre-placed so no need to worry whether you can fiddle the natural pro in while on lead
the most difficult pitches have been worked, including with regard to some of the most extreme moves, plotted out and specifically trained for off the rock, so no need to worry about whether there are holds or a path to progress
the most difficult pitches are pre-scoped with all holds ticked with chalk so no need to worry if you can even find the holds...
the point: just because a climb is done in the valley by two of the most sponsored climbers in the world, all while being tweeted, photographed and videoed, doesn't mean it is not without its significant compromises.
what these guys are doing is f*#king unbelievable and should definitely have a spotlight shone on it. and we should expect the outside world to reduce it to platitudes and simplifications.
otoh, as climbers, i'd hope, and as a few such as ms55401 hint at, this climb is kept in perspective.
that said, i'm proud to say i have been and will continue to check facebook pages and tom's updates daily.
and i'll yell out a whoop of heart felt congratulations from afar, if they succeed. [hell, at this point even if they don't]
but let's call a spade a spade.
and so let's also stop being such a bunch of old farts that we think this is going to take 20 or 30 years to repeat.
i'll place good money that this is repeated [in better style] within five to ten years.
kids in the current avant garde are on sighting 14c.
if these guys succeed, the most difficult part of this climb will have already been done for anybody that follows.
because, what is f*#king unbelievable is that these guys found a free climbable path up this wall.
and so assuming they are able to prove that it is possible, the press that this route has received will have given it the biggest bulls eye on the planet.
what up and comer isn't going to put a big ole poster on his wall and dream of making his mark by being the second?
sorry for the rant m.fers....
i couldn't help myself once i got started... hahahaha.
tl;dr: to call what caldwell and jorgeson are doing, "climbing", pushes to the breaking point the definition of the word.
as with all contemporary high end red pointing a more complete and apt descriptor is rope protected bouldering.
and so in this specific case, c + j are the progenitors of a new branch of the climbing family tree:
ground supported and rope protected big wall bouldering.
nttiawwt.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 20, 2014 - 02:08pm PT
Has nobody bagged on "guaranteed outcome climbing" yet?
Yup, called it, a month and a half early.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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This really is a mind-boggling achievement already. I've done both the New Dawn and Mescalito in the traditional way in the mid-late 1970s. They were hard enough as aid routes if you ask me (nobody has). I almost cut the rope I was jumaring on following the Molar Traverse. Second-closest time I ever got to cratering.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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I find their ascent really f*#king inspiring. Not even the ascent itself, but the amount of work they put into it. Year after year of hard f*#king work. Hell with their style, tick marks, individual move ratings and this whole circus that comes along with it. What ultimately matters is that those guys were excited about it for a long time and they are hopefully having a blast up there. Just like the guy that soloed Cerro Torre in a storm. What matters is the personal experience, like in that new song, it is all about that dash between the numbers. I am happy those two are doing something they find worthy of so much energy, and I REALLY want to see both of them succeed. Never met them, but they seem to be very likeable characters.
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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^^^^
couldn't agree more.
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wannabeen
climber
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⬆⬆⬆and, they would still be up there, doing the same thing without all this media circus!!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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They were.. for years.
Perfectly said Vitally!
I like what NAH had to say also.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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These are from 2011, taken from the base. It was cool to watch then and very cool to follow now. I've had projects, but never anything near the commitment and work they've put into this. Really hope they succeed this push.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Sure, there are harder pitches in the world. However when you add up the difficulty of each pitch on this route you do have a fairly good case for it being the hardest ROUTE in the world.
It is hard to compare, though. Ondra and Sharma can climb harder sport pitches, but I doubt either one would even try this route. They are pure sport climbers. This is definitely a trad climb. They didn't add any bolts to Mescalito or WOEML and are using trad gear.
Are we finally approaching the limits of what the human body can do? I remember when people who were doing hard 5.12 and 5.13 started tearing up the tendons in their fingers. I thought that it must be getting close to what the body could handle. Wrong. Hard 5.15 is now getting done, without injury.
Does anyone remember when Bachar blew out his elbows? Those Bachar ladders were definitely tough on the elbows.
This route is challenging the toughness of human skin, though. No doubt about that. I'm stoked for them. I don't see how you could not be.
Like others, I've aided a lot of those pitches, and the notion that they would EVER go free didn't even enter my mind.
I think that it was KJ who was talking about a difficult undercling on one of the lower pitches. He called it "lifting the car off of the baby" because you had to pull super hard.
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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I've been here in the Valley for a few days enjoying the show. It's better in person and it makes the naysayers ( nahoo!) sound like wankers. It's no circus yet. Last night there were only about 6 people watching Tommy send.
( btw there are 3 cameramen living up there. Tommy is undoubtedly the rigger and leader. They aren't relying on ground support except to deal with cameras, cameramen and poo. As for difficulty, considering Kevin is at his limit, I'm guessing that the difficulty will prove out. As for gear, I understand that they are whipping on beaks and 000 cams.
P.s. Nahoo is now nah-spew.
P.s.s. The style of ascent gives Scotty Burke big ups for his success on free climbing the Nose.
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WBraun
climber
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Scotty Burk ???? ^^^^
Pppfffftttttt ... he didn't do sh!t, except fuk over a lot of people .....
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Style will always be an issue with a lot of climbers. To me I could give a sh#t. The whole, "Anyone could do that with all that rehearsal" saying is funny to me. If I rehearsed my whole life I probably still couldn't get up even the 12's on that route.
I respect your opinion nah and so many share it, but to me I can't comment on their style cause I'm nowhere near the level of climbers that they are.
Edit: oh sh#t I might have just commented on their style.
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WBraun
climber
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Way back in the late 70's Kauk told me this type of style will come into play in the future to free climb walls like this.
He visualized it back then.
A big wall like this will become a giant boulder problem.
One problem stacked upon another and continues until the summit is reached ......
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slabbo
Trad climber
colo south
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I think it was Jim Erickson who said " the top climbs are done in dubious style" I hardly call this dubious style, but who knows ?
I read recently that only 4 people have ever climbed 15B..and for me, a route like this, a couple letters "lower" is just amazing
Go boys !!
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WBraun
climber
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The climbing world is too fixated in their stupid numbers.
When you actually look at what is being done then it's much clearer and understandable.
Always attaching these stupid numbers to everything is so meaningless ....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Anyone calling these guys out on style should go do it better. Or shut the fvck up!
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
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"When I use a word, it means just what I choose it to mean — neither more nor less." - HD
One of the things I like about climbing is that there are almost no rules, and lots of different ways to do it. Whatever free climbing means anymore, I have no idea. The expression is getting obsolete, since there are relatively few aid climbs, and freeing aid routes isn't really the focus anymore. (this climb being an exception) A lot of non-climbers think it refers to soloing.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, werner...
i thought this was very interesting:
Way back in the late 70's Kauk told me this type of style will come into play in the future to free climb walls like this.
He visualized it back then.
A big wall like this will become a giant boulder problem.
One problem stacked upon another and continues until the summit is reached ......
thanks for sharing... well, of course, i am not a climber, but,
from someone that has had kids, that climb all over everything,
it sure makes sense to me:
one giant 'boulder' problem and onward, through each
'phrase' of it...
helps me, see what is going on there, in my view from here... :)
verses all the gear that i don't always understand well...
thanks for sharing...
thanks to all the shares, here, as well, keeping us up to date...
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
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^ the rating system for bouldering may gradually replace the YDS system, they are mostly redundant and the number of boulderers is increasing rapidly. The gym I go to (Earthtreks Golden CO) has bouldering ratings for the bouldering area, and 5.? ratings for the roped area. The two variables are the difficulty of individual moves (V rating) and how many of them make up the pitch. A long sustained 5.11 may not have a single move on it harder than 5.10. Those two factors are mixed in the YDS rating. Maybe just use the V grade and see how long the route is for yourself. You could also do something like, 11 V 5 for a 5.11 with V5 as the hardest move. Still need to flag danger, though, with R and X ratings.
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Has Dean Caldwell (Not related to Tommy I assume) the guy that did Wall of the Early Morning Light with Harding ever post on this site? I would be interested to hear his take on the recent ascent.
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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Flip Flop, et al: go back and reread what i wrote. there's nothing naysaying about it.
the only reason it sounds like naysaying is because it is in response to a backdrop of singularly focused overhype.
because i'm as hyped for these guys as anyone, i have no issue with the hype in and of itself if it is kept in perspective and it is being truthful...
to be clear: c+j are hardasses. they are badasses. they are committed to a project like few in history have been. and they are progressing the adventure we all love in a way that few have or will... if i was in california i'd probably head out there to check it out myself.
what they are doing is super sweet and i have no issue with their chosen style.
my only issue is with some of the hype.
for ex: hardest rock climb?
while i expect that tripe from the outside media, i expect better of climbers.
there are too many facets of the game for climbers to be so simplistic...
at least not without a six month, 1000 post thread arguing about it. hahaha.
[as an aside, i am curious whether they are self-contained or not. i thought i'd read that they were being supplied from the ground, but in relooking around i can't find anything definitive one way or the other. so if what i said is untrue, no problem, i'll take that back and take my lashes...]
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aguacaliente
climber
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They are being resupplied from the ground because the juicer that was the Editor's Choice from the Gear Lab review would not run on solar power. I hope this clears things up.
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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^^^^
hahahahaha... i lolled
but what brand?????
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Tape is aid, therefore they are aiding it.
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Not to mention the chalk usage and tic marks....
;-)
Finish that bugger! Go!
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Seriously great work, Gentlemen.
I hope Kevin can get the tip-splitter done and what can you say about Tommy but MONSTER!
With all the fun with the media, I am totally stoked about this amazing project!
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2015 - 10:21pm PT
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^
Hear! Hear!
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Any updates from yesterday?
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Last Night Tommy freed pitch 17. (Pretty sure)
Nahoo, did you criticize Harding for having help?
Are all rehearsed 5.14 a compromise of style?
I haven't heard a single valid criticism of this climb or style.
Is there a rock climb anywhere that compares in difficulty?
FYI, I hear that it's a total sandbag at 5.14+.
You've got a lot of windbags coming in at the last minutes of a 6 year epic adventure complaining that there isn't enough adventure. It's just nonsense.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Well hardest rock climb in the world inherently means of that type of climb to me.
The media circus is in large part due to the same reason the WOEML FA had a media circus, it has had time to build up interest. Most climbs are completed before the general public hears anything about them. An extended climb like this (and one that has been tried in previous years) gives time for general public and media interest to ferment.
I don't know how anyone can complain about style. There's going to be lots of killer shots of them climbing without helmets OR shirts. Talk about styling!
Oh yeah, is that shot of Tommy's hands compressed horizontally or does he have Hobbit hands? If there are really that thick no wonder he's so strong. Still amazes me the missing index finger doesn't hold him back.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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windbag
a pompous person who talks too much, a braggart
Why do have a windbag like him representing us?
20 WORDS RELATED TO WINDBAG
blowhard gasbag know-it-all braggart d#@&%ebag annoying as#@&%e bigmouth bloviate d#@&%e bag fart hot air loudmouth bill o'reilly chatty cathy d#@&%e gas bag jerk obnoxious party bus
The boys are gett'n it done.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Final Log of progress:
1. (12/27) p1-5. 5.12b, 5.13a, 5.13c, 5.12b, 5.12d wet Tom Evans shots of day 1
2. (12/28) p6-9. 5.13c, 5.14a, 5.13d, 5.13c Tom Evans shots of day 2
3. (12/29) p10. 5.14 wet / mega to start of Molar Traverse Tom Evans shots of day 3
4. (12/30) rest day
5. (12/31) p11-12. 5.13c (extended version of topo p11, probably), 5.14b arch on Molar Traverse Tom Evans shots of day 5
(Note: p12 "The Molar Traverse" on the blue topo below was split into 2 pitches, so numbering of the remaining pitches is changed)
6. (1/1) p13-14. 5.13c Molar to Dike, 5.14d Dike Traverse I Tom Evans photos day 6
7. (1/2) rest day
8. (1/3) p15. 5.14d Dike Traverse II - Tommy redpointed, Kevin came close Tom Evans photos day 8
9. (1/4) p15. 5.14d Dike Traverse II - Kevin tried at 6pm but fell on the crux move at the end when the tape came off his fingers.
p16. 5.14+ Dyno or 5.14a Loop - Tommy led the Loop version free, with Kevin belaying. Tom Evans photos day 9
10. (1/5) rest day
11. (1/6) p17. 5.14a hard liebacking above Dyno - Tommy redpointed.
p15. Kevin made 4 redpoint attempts. Still falling at the last crux. Tom Evans photos day 11
(Note: p15 "DYNO!" on topo below was split by Tommy into 2 pitches, so pitch numbers below are 2 higher than blue topo numbers)
12. (1/7) p18. 5.13, 5.13c - Tommy redpointed. Tom Evans photos day 12
13. (1/8) p19-p20. 5.13c, 5.13c/d to Wino Tower - Tommy redpointed. Climbing in the daylight now. Kevin rested. Tom Evans photos day 13
14. (1/9) p15-p16. 5.14d Dike Traverse II - Kevin redpointed, 5.14+ Dyno - Kevin redpointed to above the no hands stance below p17. Tom Evans photos day 14
15. (1/10) p16-p18. 5.14+ Dyno - Kevin redpointed (again), 5.14a lieback - Kevin redpointed (not sure if linked with p16 or done from top of 16), 5.13c face - Kevin followed (as Tommy had led it on a previous day) Tom Evans photos day 15
16. (1/11) rest day
17. (1/12) p19-p20. 5.13c face - Kevin followed(?), 5.13c face - Kevin followed(?), 5.13c/d face - Kevin followed(?) Tom Evans photos day 17
18. (1/13) p21-27 5.12 and 5.11 Tom Evans photos day 18
19. (1/14) p28-31 5.12 and one 5.13a Tom Evans photos day 19
If you like this style topo, see my updated version with pitch numbers: http://web.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/freedawn.gif
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Given the history of the "Dawn Wall," and reading the comments about style, this is a very traditional ascent.
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2015 - 07:26am PT
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Thanks for the summary Clint.
Looks like 11 pitches to go on Erik's new topo.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Has Tommy redpointed all of the 5.14 pitches now?
With Keven's finger torched, he might be done. Yet Tommy is going strong.
I see this possibility:
They do the route, but Kevin doesn't follow every pitch. As a team, they did free every pitch in a continuous push.
In the olden days, this would be a free ascent. You swung leads and never worried if somebody couldn't follow a pitch on toprope. The point was advancing the sharp end of the rope upwards by free climbing. Tommy has so far freed every pitch, and is now ahead of Kevin by a couple of pitches.
Maybe Tommy should come back and just free the whole thing? He is climbing really well. Well enough to have led every pitch.
I would still call it a free ascent if Tommy followed some of the pitches. It might be a mild asterisk, but not that bad.
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2015 - 10:23am PT
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If Tommy frees every pitch, in order, in a push, from belay to belay, pulling ropes if he falls (all of which are happening on this push), then he has clearly freed the route. No question. Under these conditions, Tommy will be the first to have successfully free climbed the Dawn Wall. (Obviously, I hope that Kevin pulls through as well and that it is a full "team" free ascent. Kevin clearly, I think, can do it; it's a question of whether or not his body [i.e., skin] will last on this attempt.)
Now, assuming Tommy has free climbed the Dawn Wall, there is always room for improving style:
-self-contained, without support
-a single climber leads every pitch
-in a day
-etc., etc.
I remember some old interview with, I believe, Tommy, in which he said his goals for El Cap free climbing are, in order: to free every pitch, to free the route, to free the route leading every pitch, to free the route in a sub-24 push--or something to this effect (I may not have those details right).
But if Tommy tops out having freed each pitch in order in a push belay to belay (many of which are also stance to stance), then he has clearly freed the route and the route has clearly "gone" as a free climb.
My 2.5 cents.
Brian
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crøtch
climber
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Another wonderful source of news regarding the ascent is Rebecca Caldwell's blog which has some touching glimpses of the support that Tommy's family is providing through this endeavor.
http://tommyandbecca.blogspot.com/.
She writes that he has redpointed p19 and p20 leaving only (only!) 10 pitches of 5.12 and 5.11 to the top, and that he will spend some time supporting Kevin's quest to free p15 and p16.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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this is a good news. Make all situation eased up ! Go Tommy and Kevin!
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2015 - 04:11pm PT
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Sweet!
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Well done on p15 Kevin!
Get that last 5.14 pitch done. We're all rooting for you.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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as posted above,
Kevin just sent 15!! Epic! #DawnWall [~ 3:30pm]
http://twitter.com/bigUPclimbing
It's great that Kevin got it after all that work.
Hopefully the current finger skin wear and tear will not be quite so critical on the remaining pitches.
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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so wicked!
may the weather hold and given all of the work they have both put into it, may they both continue to succeed all the way to the top...
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Wooooooooohhhhhoooooooo! !! Well done Kevin! Good luck on the other pitches...wait they need no luck, they got the hard earned skill!
But in any case, wish the weather to hold up for you. And everything that you can't control to work out to your advantage.
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Nice!!!! Upward you go!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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One of the greatest free climbing efforts I have ever heard about. Now that is WANTING it. Go Kevin!
JL
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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WOOT WOOT WOOT!!! So glad he got it. Thats BIG!
It's just not the same if your buddy can't pull something off with you.
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Bob Harrington
climber
Bishop, California
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I sat in my cubicle this afternoon looking out the window and thought, maybe this is sending weather... !!! This really is an inspired effort. I've heard it said that sending a hard pitch is like pissing in a dark suit ... Gives you a warm feeling and nobody else notices. No so for these lads!
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stunewberry
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
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I don't think 3 cubic cm of rock have been the focus of so much attention since the Apollo missions to the moon. Go Kevin! Go Tommy!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Good on him!
Best vibes for the rest, team!
Yeah, Peter, ( below) the hero's Journey! What would Joseph Campbell have made of this?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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It is so huge. I am deeply happy for both of our sons. Terrific men. The Journey of the Hero!!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Go Go Go..... This is so amazing.
Best of luck
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David D.
Trad climber
California
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STOKED!
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2015 - 09:15pm PT
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Eric Jorgeson @ejorgeson · 53m 53 minutes ago
I've just been corrected. Kevin has sent the "Dyno" segment of Pitch 16. #dawnwall
from a Twitter feed linked to "Big Up." One of Kevin's friends, or a relative, I think.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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After a huge, emotional send on pitch 15, @kjorgeson is now battling with 16. The sideways dyno followed by a 14a dihedral. It's dark now, and he's going hard.... Photo by @brettlowell [~6:30pm]
http://instagram.com/p/xqBZBwuzl_/
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Pure joy. Pitch 15 finally went down after 11 attempts over 7 days. Riding high, I stuck the dyno on Pitch 16, but fell in the corner right above the no hands stance. Back to finish that tomorrow. THANK YOU SO MUCH to everyone who has followed along, believed and supported us. It's not over yet.
Thanks to Tom Evans for the celebration photo after clipping the anchor on 15. http://www.facebook.com/kjorgeson/posts/429101640576904
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 10, 2015 - 09:45am PT
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I think I counted 7 pitches of 5.14 on the topo?
Yeah, this is a big deal ...
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 10, 2015 - 03:39pm PT
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K-JORG (lol) sent the last 5.14 pitch - great job!
Warbler you ever read Caldwells story of the Dihedral wall in Climbing? Issue 234 and a very humbling and impressive account. I read it when I was 19 years old working as a projectionist in a movie theater. I wondered how they got the ropes up there, then, just as I do now ;D
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 10, 2015 - 04:03pm PT
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A naieve question:
Are they following the Mescalito route, a different route?
Are they putting in some new pitches to bypass "impossible" sections?
Whatever the case, this is an awesome project. I sincerely hope that after putting in so much spectacular effort they can finish it.
Are we ready to start a betting pool on how long before a team can do it free and ground up?
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Jan 10, 2015 - 04:09pm PT
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 10, 2015 - 04:17pm PT
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sac
That's sort of helpful. But only sort of.
On a previous page, Impaler posted a pic of the Mescalito route in much more detail.
Your pic is very lacking in detail. So I can't really tell if they're the same.
I presume your pic is the Caldwell-Jorgesen
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 10, 2015 - 04:17pm PT
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Are they following the Mescalito route, a different route?
Are they putting in some new pitches to bypass "impossible" sections?
The features that are good for aiding are different than features good for free climbing. Pretty much every El Cap route takes a slight variation to the original ascent, this one links up a handful of routes on the Dawn Wall area including new ground (5.13+ face climbing pitches etc).
An A0 bolt ladder could be 5.16++++ while a flaring weird offwidth can be 5.6 but A5+ to aid.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 10, 2015 - 04:22pm PT
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GDavis
I had been assuming they are putting in some new sections for precisely the reasons you stated.
I am hoping to find a more definitive answer.
EDIT: by inference from what you said, it may be only vaguely similar to Mescalito. That's pretty much what I had figured last year when they were still working out the route.
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2015 - 05:55pm PT
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Get out the butter; it's toast.
At this point I think I'd be willing to bet on the successful team free ascent.
Brian
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Jan 10, 2015 - 06:04pm PT
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Amazing that the weather has more or less cooperated for such an extended period during winter. I guess it is briefly raining up there tonight, by the way. This all has been deeply moving.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 10, 2015 - 06:15pm PT
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Making lemonade outta climate change :P
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Tvash
climber
Seattle
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Jan 10, 2015 - 06:28pm PT
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Curious - what was the strategy for choosing midwinter for the ascent?
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jan 10, 2015 - 08:42pm PT
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They can grip the holds much better and the rubber sticks better as well in the cold.
Just got word that Kevin sent the last 5.14 pitch (The Dyno pitch, which Tommy circumnavigated via a horrendous down climb spiral pitch) and the following 5.13 pitch (pitches 16 and 17) and now only two more hard (5.13) leads for KJ before Wino Tower (Tommy has already done these pitches) and it's easy - for them - (5.11 and 5.12 X 10 pitches) to the top.
Looking good for a send this time.
JL
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 10, 2015 - 09:22pm PT
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Hopefully finish tomorrow? Been climbing some long classics in Bozeman and haven't kept up. Love to hear they blasted to the top tomorrow. Mike
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 10, 2015 - 10:59pm PT
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10 pitches of 5.11 and 5.12, and that's in the bag?
Yeesh.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jan 10, 2015 - 11:04pm PT
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Stoked for the men and the wall.
Doubt there will be a long line to repeat this sort of suffering. We should make a pool guessing the year somebody will do a second ascent
if ever
Peace
Karl
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Jan 11, 2015 - 01:01am PT
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cold weather builds stronger muscles,
all the power lifters are from Siberia, not the equator,
bunch of skinny-azz soccer players down there, arms hang limp,
will these guys be charged for camp fees?
what about that new hang dogging ordinance for anything over 500 ft?
like one long Bacher Yerian, these guys should get a deal with Cliff Bar,
jus sayin...WTF, over?
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Jan 11, 2015 - 08:31am PT
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Amazing video. It looks so easy and controlled. Really good climbers make it look like it is easy.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 11, 2015 - 09:12am PT
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Raind like a tall cow.... Sat night between barstow & vegas - hope it stays better, for them!
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jan 11, 2015 - 09:20am PT
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Maybe a storm rolling in around April... :-)
Damn nice weather for January! I was there in early February once; the sunny slabs, usually kinda greasy and crowded, were perfect then.
All the best to Tommy and Kevin!
EDIT: well, from the photos, it seems plenty warm on El Cap currently for climbing comfortably.
But yeah, while it appears the weather will hold up for a few more days, it's a high stakes game being near the top of a big wall in winter. But they know all about that. I'm sure the weather is likely the big topic of conversation, 24/7.
http://www.nps.gov/yose/photosmultimedia/webcams.htm
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 11, 2015 - 11:28am PT
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Are they following the Mescalito route, a different route?
Are they putting in some new pitches to bypass "impossible" sections?
Fred,
Mostly following Mescalito, with parts of other routes and new connector pitches.
Sloan's topo shows it fairly well.
p1-5. Mescalito
p6-7. Adrift
p8. new
p9. new + Mescalito
p10-13. Mescalito
p14-p15. new (Dike Traverse)
p16. Dyno new
p16. Loop new + Dawn
p17-18. Dawn
p19. Dawn + new
p20. new just left of Dawn Dihedral
p21. new just right of Dawn
p22-23. Dawn
p24. Dawn + new
p25. new
p26-28. Mescalito
p29. Mescalito + new
p30. new
p31. new + Tempest
p32. Tempest
Pitch counts:
13 Mescalito
10-10.5 new (10.5 via Dyno)
5-5.5 Dawn (5.5 via Loop)
2 Adrift
1.5 Tempest
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jan 11, 2015 - 11:53am PT
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No snow in EC Meadow . . . California is in for another dry year.
Nice pitch breakdown Clint!
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Jan 11, 2015 - 12:27pm PT
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Huge headline and front page article in the Sunday Denver Post. Large photo spotlighting TC as he climbs. Absolutely amazing climb. Every time you think there is an upper bound to climbing performance something spectacular is done and you reset your expectations!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 12, 2015 - 01:49am PT
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Phone interview with Kevin Jorgeson on Saturday in Andrew Bisharat's latest National Geographic article:
http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2014/01/140111-interview-kevin-jorgeson-dawn-wall-yosemite-adventure/
Interesting idea that Kevin used to help him get p15:
It was actually a scientific breakthrough, if you will. I asked [one of the filmmakers] Kyle Berkompas to render me a video of all my attempts on pitch 15 so that I could analyze it.
I realized that my right foot was ever so slightly out of position. That was making a big difference. If you feel like your foot is just going to blow off the wall, everything tenses up. I realized I needed to change my foot sequence to get much better friction on the foothold.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jan 12, 2015 - 03:30am PT
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Hey Karl,
There is a path that this sort of climb is never repeated. If a climber were good enough and committed enough to do a 2nd, they might rather go off and do their own mind-bending FFA. I think it probably depends on how close we are to the absolute limits of capability.
Kevin watching videos of his own attempts links back to the visualization and memorizing the moves and balance points that I think free climbers have been doing for a long time. Watching a video opens up a whole new way to extend this. They need more cameras and Kevin should wear a suit with position markers.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jan 12, 2015 - 06:21am PT
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how close we are to the absolute limits of capability.
A long ways.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 12, 2015 - 08:38am PT
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Watching a video opens up a whole new way to extend this.
They need more cameras and Kevin should wear a suit with position markers.
Yep .... they'll eventually completely go this route in the sport climbing world.
They will continuously claim harder and harder grades being done by these mechanical, technological and software aids.
I prefer the Honnold method.
Not because he free solo's, that's not the only thing he does.
It's because he just plain walks up to sh!t and starts climbing without all that aid .....
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throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jan 12, 2015 - 09:31am PT
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Free climbing as I understand it....start at the bottom, place gear as you go or use what was agreeably fixed on lead, don't grab or stand on anything that isn't rock, do whatever is safe at the anchor, repeat till you get to the top. Right?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 12, 2015 - 10:05am PT
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FOr a historian, this effort is a remarkable example of the way that sport and gym climbing have fused with old-fashioned expedition climbing.
For much of the 20th century, expedition climbing was a common feature of big objectives from the Himalayas to here. In the 1960s and 1970s, the turn toward "alpine style" ascents, with no fixed ropes or porters, was the name of the game, partly because the environmental impact of large expeditions had become so visible. The original Dawn Wall was controversial precisely because it seemed to many like a retrograde move back to expedition style.
Wings of Steel provoked a similar controversy, and Todd and Paul's application of some of the practices of sport climbing to free The Salathe fairly divided rock climbers.
But El Cap and Yosemite also, gradually, but fairly firmly, slipped out of a strict mountaineering tradition and into a crag climbing tradition. The possibility of rescue, the proliferation of fixed and rappel anchors, the easy access and comparatively stable weather (compared with, say, the Alps much less the HImalaya), simply changed the game.
For cynics, this looks like a Lotus eaters version of Eigerwand in the 1930s, but without all that unfortunate Nazi business.
That said, I really admire the unusual kind of mental toughness involved-- putting this much work into a project on this scale, and dealing with the strain of boundary limit slab climbing over such an expanse of time and rock, and such long periods of immobility, is amazing to watch.
Without a succession of drought years, it might not have come together.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 12, 2015 - 10:34am PT
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Ian
Thanks for the link. The Yosemite Big Wall topo made it all very clear.
Clint, thanks also for the help.
Kevin
I asked [one of the filmmakers] Kyle Berkompas to render me a video of all my attempts on pitch 15 so that I could analyze it. A new kind of artificial aid?
Just kidding.
This is truly an amazing project.
I hope Tom Evans gets a chorus of Fat Ladies together in the meadow to sing when they top out.
Possibly something Wagnerian? Ritt der Walküren?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 12, 2015 - 09:12pm PT
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John Branch @JohnBranchNYT · 0 hours ago
On his his third attempt of the night, @kjorgeson sends Pitch 20. At Wino Tower, with open path to the top of #dawnwall
Kevin Jorgeson @kjorgeson · 0 hours ago
Wino Tower. #dawnwall
Kevin Jorgeson @kjorgeson · 3 hours ago
Can someone turn the humidity down by about 90%?
Kevin Jorgeson @kjorgeson · 3 hours ago
Sitting on Wino Tower engulfed in a cloud after a foot slip at the top of pitch 20. Felt strong. Just a matter of time. #dawnwall
Kevin Jorgeson @kjorgeson · 6 hours ago
Two down. One more pitch to Wino.
Kevin Jorgeson @kjorgeson · 10 hours ago
Nothing like clouds and a cold breeze to boost motivation for the hard day ahead. #dawnwall |
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 12, 2015 - 10:03pm PT
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Probably another generation...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 12, 2015 - 10:12pm PT
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The original Dawn Wall was controversial precisely because it seemed to many like a retrograde move back to expedition style. Hmmm, they didn't use fixed ropes, but they were slow/heavy.
I believe the controversy was more because they used 330 bolts.
Extensive rivet ladders. They were also partly unlucky because "The Dihedrals" turned out to be blank.
A few years later, Mescalito was done with copperheads and a lot fewer rivets.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 12, 2015 - 11:21pm PT
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Looks like they are both on Wino :) Only 5.12 from here on out!
*only*
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jan 12, 2015 - 11:39pm PT
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Granite climbing gets little respect in the ratings. Rating those crux pitches only 14.d is sort of an act of humility. Granite doesn't seem to qualify for 5.15 no matter how few of the world's best could ever do those traversing pitches. It's says 14.d on the topo but you have to be better than that to climb them, or at least better than a some 5.15 climbers who couldn't touch them.
Not that I really know cause my 5.14 and 5.15 climbs are in my dreams, but just looking at Tommy's credentials and how hard it's been for him to do this, I gotta think those numbers are almost arbitrary, like the great roof wasn't really the 13b that Lynne originally rated it
Peace
Karl Baba
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jan 12, 2015 - 11:51pm PT
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Rating climbs/moves that require balance and positioning is pretty subjective compared to climbs/move that require strength. People of different sizes have their centers of gravity in different places, relative to the holds, and that can make a big difference. I would guess that the climbing on the Dawn Wall is of this sort.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 13, 2015 - 12:29am PT
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John Branch @JohnBranchNYT · 3 hours ago
On his his third attempt of the night, @kjorgeson sends Pitch 20. At Wino Tower, with open path to the top of #dawnwall
Kevin Jorgeson @kjorgeson · 3 hours ago
Wino Tower. #dawnwall
tommycaldwell
2 hours ago
In another inspiring battle late into the night Kevin managed to send pitches 18, 19, and 20. Clouds swirled all around It was truly a surreal scene. Tomorrow we leave our bacecamp and blast towards the top. With some luck we will be standing on top in a couple days. I an excited to walk on flat ground again although I am sure I will truly miss this experience. Great photo of what has been out home for the past 17 nights @coreyrichproductions @bigupclimbing. http://instagram.com/p/xyPQDvj5d1/
Next up:
p21-28 5.12 and 5.11
p29 5.12 or 5.13a
p30 5.12 to top
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Bad Climber
climber
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Jan 13, 2015 - 06:34am PT
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Wow, this climb is going down. What an effort. Makes me more motivated for my insignificant projects!
Re. this:
how close we are to the absolute limits of capability.
A long ways.
I respectfully submit we are not too far from our human limits. Unlike past generations, we have folks like Caldwell who started climbing at about age 3 (?) and then got into hard stuff pretty early. We've got scientific training, 100% full time climbers. The hardest routes now take many, many days, weeks, sometimes months or years of effort. Even Ondra required 50 tries to repeat a Sharma route that was done a few years ago. Great, great climbers can spend all their time and effort and still not break into 5.15. No, I think we'll see some incremental improvement and different styles but not huge increases in difficulty.
I look at it like running events. For example, breaking a 2hr marathon barrier MAY be possible, but it's looking pretty unlikely. If we were a long ways from human limits in marathon running, we could expect 1h50m, maybe 1h40m marathon times. We'll NEVER see 1hr marathon times. We won't see a 2 min. mile either. There are limits. Look how long the record for the long jump stood. Now it progresses by very small degrees. From Wikipedia:
Does anyone think we'll see a 50 ft. long jump? I think in terms of absolute climbing difficulty we're pretty close to this situation. Improvements, sure, but not huge.
BAd
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 13, 2015 - 09:20am PT
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Hmmm, they didn't use fixed ropes, but they were slow/heavy.
I believe the controversy was more because they used 330 bolts.
in some circles, that was probably true. but but by the time they went up on dawn, the critique of siege/expedition climbing outside of, and increasinly inside of, yoesmite,seems to have coalesced into a combination of criticisms that recur time and again: excessive time, excessive material, excessive support. on rock climbs, those criticisms typically focused on time, fixed ropes, and bolts.
we don't remember our anxieties about time so clearly anymore, because our priorities have changed over the last 30 years, at least on El Cap. Luxury cruises, Chongotowns, seasonal communal juglines, and other events have pretty much helped most of us get comfortable with the idea of extended sojourns in the vertical. so today we mostly remember bolts. (the more so as period methods and manners texts, notably royals', began to focus on hole count as a boundary line for style.)
in places like yos, extended time is also one of the things that tends to draw both official and media attention, and so many of the complaints about hype, circus, or whatever, are also complaints about the excessive visibility of sieges.
that's like a siege paragraph.
one of the things i do like most about this current version of dawn wall, is that it puts a focus back on the roped team. not just hero x and his or her generic belay slave.
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throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jan 13, 2015 - 09:21am PT
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When Fires replaced EBs, the grades jumped. Could the high jump or marathon times do the same thing just by changing shoes? Perhaps a bit, but not as big of a change as we saw in climbing. The pole vault was certainly advanced by pole technology....but it relied more on technology from its beginning...more like auto racing or windsurfing.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 13, 2015 - 11:04am PT
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Granite climbing gets little respect in the ratings. Rating those crux pitches only 14.d is sort of an act of humility. Granite doesn't seem to qualify for 5.15 no matter how few of the world's best could ever do those traversing pitches.
??
The hardest climb in the world is on granite. Change, 5.15c
http://vimeo.com/68083454
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 13, 2015 - 11:22am PT
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one of the things i do like most about this current version of dawn wall, is that it puts a focus back on the roped team. not just hero x and his or her generic belay slave.
I think that's because Tommy wants to go back and try to free it in a day.
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HMS
Trad climber
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Jan 13, 2015 - 11:47am PT
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@Oplopanax: Change is on gneiss. Just like most rock climbing in Norway, Hanshelleren crag consists of gneiss, not granite. Most of the hard bouldering in the Alps is on gneiss as well, but for some reason most climbers seem to think it is granite.
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Jan 13, 2015 - 02:08pm PT
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Thanks for the link!
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Jan 13, 2015 - 02:16pm PT
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about time they got a video stream going. Now I won't be able to work til they top out. :)
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oldnutz
Trad climber
OAKLAND
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Jan 13, 2015 - 02:19pm PT
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Where is this live feed camera located? I see lots of heat distortion so it must be quite far away? I remember the view from the base of East Buttress on Middle Cathedral being similar, but it could be that far away?
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Jan 13, 2015 - 02:23pm PT
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tommy just took a piss. :0
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 13, 2015 - 02:25pm PT
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There's three media trucks in El Cap meadow right now.
Then there's a film crew grip truck parked on South Side Drive entrance to the picnic area that views the Dawn wall.
Whom ever is filming this has a remote feed to one of the satellite trucks.
It's fuking circus out there.
I didn't stop because I hate these kind of media circuses.
Instead went climbing in a peaceful setting away from this freak show .......
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jan 13, 2015 - 03:57pm PT
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It's fuking circus out there.
hahaha! The Valley's been a "fuking circus" for decades, Werner. You need to get out more ;-))
Psyched to read that that Tommy and Kevin are reunited and galloping (or whatever they do) toward the summit.
Really psyched that they have put El Capitan, the best cliff on Earth, back into the limelight: a place for the very best climbers to do their most amazing feats.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 13, 2015 - 03:58pm PT
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Webcast of a climb, that's different.
Looks like Tommy(? - light green windbreaker) just led the 5.11d pitch off the 1' x 10' ledge (p26 on Sloan's topo). Partner (yellow windbreaker) is starting to follow.
6 pitches to go after the follow is done.
Their crew already hauled their haulbag and portaledge to the top of that pitch, so they are not stopping to camp at the 1' x 10'.
pitch followed. bag + ledge hauled up next pitch by crew.
photographer rapped into position.
Swapped leaders, yellow belay jacket handed off.
guy in red shirt starting to lead next pitch (5.11c, I think).
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver, Colorado
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Jan 13, 2015 - 04:05pm PT
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Werner, the grips are actually sherpa grips that haul the bags. They'll be climbing with headlamps soon. They need to try to time it so they top out in the middle of the six o'clock news.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 13, 2015 - 04:21pm PT
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Normally this time of the year there's snow in the meadow and no one around.
So don't give this bullsh!t it's always a circus here.
In the winter it's normally very very quiet and peaceful.
The grip truck is not in El Cap meadow and is not climbers.
Even Largo is here but I didn't ask him what he's doing.
None of my business anyways ....
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jan 13, 2015 - 04:22pm PT
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They are getting help from their alien alies, does anyone else see those white orbs floating around them. They can't claim a legit FA if they use alien assistance.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jan 13, 2015 - 04:38pm PT
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Every time I see a topo of the route it looks like a work of art. It's a beautiful line, it meanders beautifully. It's the steepest, coolest-looking part of El Cap. If I had a freaking artistic bone in my body I'd, you know, do something artistic with this knowledge.
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Mei
Trad climber
Was one
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Jan 13, 2015 - 04:45pm PT
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Just clicked on the live feed and watched a little. Surprised with the good quality. Can see pretty well. As far as I remember, I've rarely seen top climbers wear a helmet. Well, they didn't have one in earlier photos, so I was surprised to see them wearing one now. I wonder if it's a sacrifice they made to set a good example for kids who might be watching.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 13, 2015 - 04:49pm PT
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You know you're a hermit when a few trucks and onlookers in a 6 mile long valley is 'a circus.'
;)
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 13, 2015 - 04:51pm PT
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Great post, Greg - so true!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 13, 2015 - 04:52pm PT
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Dat live stream tho- I just saw Kevin do I move I think I could possibly do!
Just one, though.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 13, 2015 - 04:57pm PT
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Weather forecast is for continued fair into the weekend. Warmish days and cool nights.
Now is not the time for them to rush it.
Take it easy (easy for me to say), play it safe lads.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jan 13, 2015 - 05:01pm PT
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What pitch did KJ just finish? 27??
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jan 13, 2015 - 05:08pm PT
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It's kinda boring watching it with no sound so I just put on my Benny Hill soundtrack, a lot more exciting now!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 13, 2015 - 05:22pm PT
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Yep, Mei and Kevin, I was wondering the same thing about the helmets.
p27 (5.11c) on Sloan's topo led and followed.
One more (5.12c) to the "Ship's Bow" and its sloping ledge.
Getting dark and headlamps are out.
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Port
Trad climber
Norwalk, CT
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Jan 13, 2015 - 05:26pm PT
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Topping out the dawn wall...at dawn? Pretty freaking cool. Looking like they'll finish before that.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 13, 2015 - 05:41pm PT
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Sooooo....the monkeys sent!?!?! :))))
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Jan 13, 2015 - 05:53pm PT
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Kevin tweeted earlier today that they are going to spend the night at Ship's Bow (top of pitch 28). So, they are presumably climbing the last pitch for the day right now (12c) and tomorrow they have 4 "easy" 12b pitches, with a move of 13a according to the topo to finish it off.
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crankster
Trad climber
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Jan 13, 2015 - 06:08pm PT
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Business is brisk...slow down, guys!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jan 13, 2015 - 08:01pm PT
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El Capitan theater.
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Port
Trad climber
Norwalk, CT
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Jan 13, 2015 - 08:36pm PT
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Not sure I favor this as a paradigm going forward, but jeez, this has been so fun to follow.
Totally agree with this.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 13, 2015 - 08:58pm PT
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".slow down, guys!"
Emphatically concur. Now there is FINALLY someone who is actually SLOWER THAN ME!
Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!!!!
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DM88T
climber
San Juan Bautista, CA
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Jan 13, 2015 - 09:13pm PT
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lots to talk
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Jan 13, 2015 - 10:01pm PT
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To me, this was better than all the sporting events my friends and family watch! Thank you to everyone involved, but mostly to the dudes sending. So much sh#t has been said on this climb, which is unfortunate. I have nothing to say other than, holy f*#k, awesome, and send it. Thank you for giving me something to follow while everyone I know watched football!
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 13, 2015 - 10:12pm PT
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^^I know, huh? Thanks for that, bmd.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:13am PT
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hey there say, clint... say, neat share, thanks!
happy good morning, too, :)
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:27am PT
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Today's NYTimes features a front page article, focused on Kevin, cast as the underdog, and his family and girlfriend, Jacque. The aurhor, John Branch, is a 2013 Pultizer prize winner. We learn that edges are pebbles, climbers meet clients dressed in suits, and know their whiskey. The tone is just right for a front page article. I thought that the author climbed, but I didn't find any reference. Nice article.
Way to go Kevin.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jan 14, 2015 - 07:10am PT
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Some big stuff
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 14, 2015 - 08:13am PT
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@Oplopanax: Change is on gneiss. Just like most rock climbing in Norway, Hanshelleren crag consists of gneiss, not granite. Most of the hard bouldering in the Alps is on gneiss as well, but for some reason most climbers seem to think it is granite
I am a geologist, and from a climber's perspective the functional difference between climbing on gneiss and on granite is pretty much zilch. It's like Coke and Pepsi. The point is that Karl's supposed "Dawn Wall is granite so it must be harder than any 5.15 because those are all on limestone" claim is BS.
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BlackSpider
Ice climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 08:18am PT
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I am a geologist, and from a climber's perspective the functional difference between climbing on gneiss and on granite is pretty much zilch. It's like Coke and Pepsi. The point is that Karl's supposed "Dawn Wall is granite so it must be harder than any 5.15 because those are all on limestone" claim is BS.
And to further that point, the relevant comparison in terms of "hardness" is whether Caldwell and Jorgenson could make progress on and finish Change more quickly than Adam Ondra could do the same on the Dawn Wall. My money would be squarely on Ondra in that situation.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Jan 14, 2015 - 08:42am PT
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The article on how to maintain fingertips on a wall like that sounded pretty methodical to me - about the opposite of reckless. Does anybody have a photo of Aussie tape? It could be good for us aging climbers whose skin gets thinner as we go up in years.
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John M
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 09:25am PT
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Anyone know what pitch they are on?
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jan 14, 2015 - 09:40am PT
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29 I believe. 12C?
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jan 14, 2015 - 09:43am PT
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Awkward flare to .11.b OW downclimb... should be good. Looks like those legs are pretty cramped up after 2.5 weeks on the wall.
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2015 - 09:47am PT
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Great to see all that work, on both Tommy's and Kevin's part, come to fruition.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 14, 2015 - 09:59am PT
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This live footage is increadable.
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:02am PT
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Not a lot of pro for the second for that 5.11d ow/undercling/downclimb thing. Pretty crazy looking pitch.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:05am PT
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That's what I was thinking.
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stunewberry
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:21am PT
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No helmets today. Was there ice falling on them yesterday, but today they're under overhangs?
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:25am PT
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Damn, KJ just fell out of the .12b corner.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:25am PT
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Yeah, that's a hideous flare.
Maybe time to unclip that stuff off the back of his harness.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:27am PT
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TC used his feet better- Kevin was basically climbing it straight in.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:27am PT
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Tommy was wearing one on his lead and Kevin had one on until he started following I think. I would say they are using them for loose stuff, but who knows.
Bummer just seeing Kevin fall. I can't fathom how they have any energy left.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:29am PT
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So much for those who are saying the rest of the climb was "easy"...
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:29am PT
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He's gonna need more than just a helmet if he blows it on that flake.
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crøtch
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:37am PT
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Anyone have a Valley Giant the team can borrow for the traverse?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:51am PT
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Kevin jugging back up for a second try at following.
It may take awhile just to get the gear back in.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:06am PT
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He's not enjoying that offwidth.. Lol
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:11am PT
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Might be a long day...
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:14am PT
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That one pitch looks like a Suicide Rock style testpeice - flaring offwidth with runout flake liebacks. Ugh. Gnarly.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:15am PT
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"Why were you late for work, Greg?"
"Oh, I was watching some guy top-rope..."
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throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:26am PT
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Watching Kevin in the flare...on comes the Grateful Dead on the radio playing The Wheel...the lyrics fit the action perfectly
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:26am PT
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Those cross kneebars are sick!
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John M
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:28am PT
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I never thought that I would watch climbing on TV, but I'm gripped. Come Kevin!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:28am PT
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Kevin frees the flare on his second try - nice recovery.
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:30am PT
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Out of the OW!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:32am PT
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They will hopefully soon add a huge TV(think cowboys stadium huge) and stadium seats into EC Meadow.
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John M
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:33am PT
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We need Tom with a live mic.. hahaha..
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CCT
Trad climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:37am PT
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Why is he leaving a piece high and left? I get that it protects the traverse, but is the camera crew going to clean it for him?
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:38am PT
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Sh#t yeah! Cool pitch.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:39am PT
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Just finished the pitch! Great job, KJ!
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:40am PT
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What a great TEAM.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:44am PT
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Why is he leaving a piece high and left? I get that it protects the traverse, but is the camera crew going to clean it for him?
Yup.
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CCT
Trad climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:48am PT
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Huh. I guess Tommy should have left in more pro for Kevin.
Not to take anything away from their tremendous accomplishment, but having your camera crew clean your pitches and haul your portaledges makes this a very different style of climb than what I'm used to.
EDIT: Actually, I guess it makes sense, seeing as how Tommy and Kevin are responsible for all the rigging. That's a lot of extra work. And if they were up there solo, they could have just abandoned the extra pieces used to protect Kevin's traverse, and no one would have blinked an eye.
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Mick K
climber
Northern Sierra
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:54am PT
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Boys just dropped something...a glove?
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:55am PT
|
BOOOOOOOTY!!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:57am PT
|
Nothing about this is a traditional climb. It seems a little weird for sure, but as you said everything's different when you have to rig for cameras.. I'm super stoked to see this 13a pitch up next!
Ya tommy just held up his other glove after he dropped it
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:58am PT
|
"Cleaning and hauling"?
-they "have people for that"
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Jan 14, 2015 - 11:59am PT
|
not watching paint dry right now. :0 +++vibes
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:02pm PT
|
get some pro Tommy!
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:02pm PT
|
I'm such a child of the media age. I want two people doing live commentary and analysis while I watch the stream. You guys posting are the best-- keep your comments coming! :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:07pm PT
|
Tommy sure seems hesitant about this move Daphne...
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:08pm PT
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Have they climbed these pitches before? Seems pretty stout..
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:09pm PT
|
Laughing out loud, Mike :D
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:10pm PT
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so hard to leave a good stance!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:10pm PT
|
It's cool that they haven't done these pitches in a long time. You can see Tommy figuring out the moves and backing off. Really shows what it's like to try and redpoint a tough pitch.
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John M
climber
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:11pm PT
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I believe that everything has been climbed. but its been a few years since they have been on some of it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:12pm PT
|
Picking off moss now.. He doesn't seem to have this pitch wired at all!
Oh wait.. Starting up, no... Back to the stance again..
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:13pm PT
|
tommy's battling
any way to record the stream? or will NBC do it?
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:15pm PT
|
I bet he's thinking, "Sh#t, why can't we just get a few 5.9s to the top?".
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:15pm PT
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Really makes you appreciate their style of ascent.
fall= start over.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:15pm PT
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Goes to show how marginal 5.12 on granite is, even for the elite.
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CCT
Trad climber
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:15pm PT
|
Has Tommy actually taken a fall on any of the pitches on this attempt?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:15pm PT
|
We can see little blue in the corner of the wide shot now.. These gents are so close to their goal!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:17pm PT
|
He's done it! Can he finish the pitch??
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:18pm PT
|
This is the 13a section correct?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:19pm PT
|
Picking lint out of the cracks again..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:19pm PT
|
Next pitch unless they link
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:19pm PT
|
Bitch'en heel hook
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:20pm PT
|
^^
Ya, cool move. Not an easy sequence for sure.
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:22pm PT
|
He just passed the 12b on pitch 30. He's pointing towards some blank rock up and right ahead. Is that pitch 31 (13a)? I sure hope not.
Fet, that topo you posted was pitches that they climbed yesterday.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:25pm PT
|
Is that not the belay? Chains above him? Looks as if he's gonna link it
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:29pm PT
|
I think they're bagged. That's probably why Tommy's leading everything..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:32pm PT
|
I was wrong, this is still the 12b pitch.
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:33pm PT
|
Could they be dramatizing this last section for effect??
18 days of extremely hard climbing and they aren't prancing up 13a.
I bet you think the moon landing was faked too.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:34pm PT
|
think it was the 12.b before the 13. 13 will be on next pitch
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:36pm PT
|
Crazy. Looks like the crux spot transitioning to traversing after the down climb isn't even given a crux rating.
Tom must be happy with Tommy's fashion choice. Bright red helmet and yellow/green jacket.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:37pm PT
|
gonna be a sketch pitch to follow. Get it Kevin!
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CCT
Trad climber
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:39pm PT
|
If Tommy hasn't actually taken any falls on this 18-day attempt, then climbing these last few pitches clean must mean a lot to him.
Anyone know?
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:40pm PT
|
He's taken falls but goes back to the belay and completes each pitch with no falls.
Yay! Just finished 29!
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:41pm PT
|
There's run out, and then there's what Tommy just did. haha
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Brian
climber
California
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2015 - 12:41pm PT
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Yes, Tommy fell on several pitches before red pointing. I'm pretty sure the thread contains links to Kevin's blow by blow of the early climbing ("Tommy sent second try, I sent third try" etc.).
Looks like Tommy just clipped the anchor at the end of p30. Now comes the last 13a.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:42pm PT
|
Didn't he fall on the pitch with the wet streak?
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:44pm PT
|
These last few pitches of the climb look a bit anticlimatic. The last two especially. They ended up level with the ledge where they slept after two very wandering pitches.
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:44pm PT
|
I think I would have rather have led this pitch than followed.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:44pm PT
|
Go KJ!
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:45pm PT
|
There's run out, and then there's what Tommy just did. haha
No doubt. The often bold nature of this route is hardly noticed because of the technical difficulty, but these guys have been staring down huge falls throughout this adventure.
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John M
climber
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:47pm PT
|
Yay! Just finished 29!
I thought Tommy just finished pitch 30? Did they break 29 up into two sections? cornfused here.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:47pm PT
|
Kevin's got his dome on now! Fixing the tag line?
Ahhh.. For the ledge
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:48pm PT
|
I don't know about anti-climactic. Kevin's gotta follow that 12b traverse. Then both redpoint 13a at the end of how many days on the wall?
Seriously awesome.
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:48pm PT
|
About to start pitch 31(13a) after Kevin follows pitch 30.
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:48pm PT
|
I believe he just finished Pitch 29 to 30 on the topo as well. 13a pitch is next
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stunewberry
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:48pm PT
|
There are two versions of the topo. One says Tommy just finished 29, the newer (?) one says he finished 30
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CCT
Trad climber
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:49pm PT
|
Thanks. I see that Tommy fell on pitch 8, 3 times. Probably other times too. Should have dug harder before posting my question.
Go Team Dawn Wall!
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:49pm PT
|
Lead OR follow, that last traversing pitch looks scary, hard and funky for either...
Fascinating to watch...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:50pm PT
|
Tommy just finished the 12b p 29 on fet's post. It has the up and down section in the middle
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
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Jan 14, 2015 - 12:51pm PT
|
cornfused here.
Like a dump after too much corn on the cob.
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:51pm PT
|
Pretty sure the 12b is actually pitch 30, in that the pitch ends at the 30th belay.
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:52pm PT
|
Mike, that would be 30 in Fet's post
I have got nothing done since I opened the link to the video.
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stunewberry
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:52pm PT
|
Fet's version shows Tommy finished 30. I think that's the newer version. In any case, yeah, Tommy just finished the traversing 12b with a bolt in the middle.
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:52pm PT
|
That's not what I meant. The climbing actually looks WAY harder than I thought it would be. And I never thought it would be too easy for them. Watching Tommy hesitate on 12b and go up and down several times is a bit unusual, though.
What I meant, was that after the crux traverse pitches I was under the impression that they just go up, up, up. Not the case. They are still doing lots of traversing. So, overall pitches 14, 15, 16, 25, 29, and 30 don't gain any elevation. Lots of traversing on that one.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:53pm PT
|
Yes. From 29 to 30. 12b
Kj is lacing up
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:55pm PT
|
Yeah, Impaler it really shows how much effort must have gone into finding the line of weakness on this part of the captain.
With all the traversing and downclimbing it's like a 4000 foot free climb.
|
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:57pm PT
|
Tommy only spent two years hanging around up there trying to find it... Lol
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:57pm PT
|
No doubt. The often bold nature of this route is hardly noticed because of the technical difficulty, but these guys have been staring down huge falls throughout this adventure.
Yeah, Tommy seems to like stopping to protect about as much as Alex Honnold does. haha
|
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:58pm PT
|
I don't know how I am expected to get any work done today...
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:58pm PT
|
Its on! and down he goes (down climb that is!)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:59pm PT
|
Placing pro wastes energy. That's why guys skip clips on hard routes.
E: it's like watching the moon landing only slightly less significant to human kind.. Lol
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 12:59pm PT
|
Yeah, Impaler it really shows how much effort must have gone into finding the line of weakness on this part of the captain.
Yeah, my friend said "not only extreme climbing, but extreme route finding."
|
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:01pm PT
|
Wonder if KJ will lead p31?
If they get through this.. Lol it would be such a pain in the a$$ to have to do this pitch again..
|
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:03pm PT
|
could have put some more pro in for me dude...
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:03pm PT
|
This is one small crux for a man, one giant free climb for mankind.
|
|
tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
|
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|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:03pm PT
|
oh my that down climb bit was hard to watch. a fall there would have sucked.
|
|
HermantheJerman
climber
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:04pm PT
|
How does it actually work if he falls late on the pitch?
Does he backclimb/lead the whole pitch to the last belay and then start again?
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:05pm PT
|
Amazing. Great weather. T-shirts! And, both wearing helmets. Good boys!
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:07pm PT
|
Kevin at that crux. At least he got the beta watching Tommy.
|
|
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:07pm PT
|
How bout not fall so no need for a real PITA redo. Next few moves look really HARD.
|
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Tvash
climber
Seattle
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:07pm PT
|
I would never have thought climbing would be such a great spectator sport. Yet here I am, well glued.
Better than the Seahawks, even.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:09pm PT
|
HermantheJerman
climber
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:04pm PT
How does it actually work if he falls late on the pitch?
Does he backclimb/lead the whole pitch to the last belay and then start again?
Camera crew would sort that out..
|
|
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:12pm PT
|
Ok. this is fun to watch!
|
|
Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:12pm PT
|
very smooth KJ!
I took his 'Techniques and Movement' class at Vertex BITD!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:13pm PT
|
Like the bump and dangle off the heel hook move!
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:15pm PT
|
Thanks for the screen grabs Ed H.
|
|
Brian
climber
California
|
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|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2015 - 01:16pm PT
|
I would never have thought climbing would be such a great spectator sport.
Ugh. Can't agree with you on that one. I shut the video down after a few minutes. Though I do suspect it would be cool to see the actual top-out, watching climbing is like watching paint dry. How can something that is so amazing to do be so boring to watch? I mean, I'm as interested in this climb at the next guy, and I've been pretty psyched to keep appraised of the developments over the years; but I can't get into the video as a blow-by-blow sort of thing.
Nevertheless, I'll pop back on to try to catch the bitter end. And I am grateful for those who are finding the video feel compelling and their posts with progress. Thanks!
It's great to think that this rig will finally be free this afternoon. Really psyched for Tommy and Kevin. So well-deserved.
|
|
LearningTrad
Trad climber
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:17pm PT
|
Send that Rig, braj!!!!
|
|
BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:22pm PT
|
When did the helmets come out?
They don't need no stinking helmets....
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:23pm PT
|
Brian this is kind of like watching American Football. You don't need to watch every second, just let it run and "tune in" when something important happens. And the more you know about it the more you appreciate it.
But this does make me realize how awesome a live feed would have been on the Nose speed attempts. Much faster paced and dynamic climbing. With a live clock running in the corner to let you know how they are doing against record pace.
|
|
HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:23pm PT
|
Who's got time to post???
I'm glued to the video
Sayonara
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:23pm PT
|
BASE, maybe they don't trust the tourons/news folks on top?
Damn, seems like Kevin followed that pitch fast.
|
|
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:24pm PT
|
Base, I wonder if Paul and Todd thought the same thing on their last pitch of the salathe.....
|
|
HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:24pm PT
|
What pitch are they on?
|
|
throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:25pm PT
|
Watching paint dry never made my palms sweat. Runout traverses make me nervous.
|
|
Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:26pm PT
|
let the camera boys get that piece...
|
|
HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:27pm PT
|
Kevin's just down climbed a shallow left leaning corner
looking at P29 on the topo. So he's just finished the downward traverse?
|
|
Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:27pm PT
|
I don't think I'll ever say again that something can't be down climbed ! Interesting to see how different some of Kevin's foot work was in places but still got the job done.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:28pm PT
|
Ya Ed! Following's no prob on this climb! Just leave gear wherever u need it! Lol
|
|
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:28pm PT
|
I wouldn't clean that piece either. I'd be like.. you want it? go get it.
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:28pm PT
|
Two to go!!!
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:30pm PT
|
The hardest pitch left up next!!
|
|
stunewberry
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:30pm PT
|
No! They just finished 30 on Fet's topo. The end of the last pitch is 32. 32 is not the start of the 3rd class.
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:31pm PT
|
Who's gonna lead?
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:31pm PT
|
So, Kevin just finished the downclimb down and right on the third-last pitch? Is that right? Two pitches to go?
|
|
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:32pm PT
|
Correct
|
|
stunewberry
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:32pm PT
|
2 to go. 13b with three bolts traverse to the 12a corner, then 1 more to the top.
From the camera position, the traverse looks more featured and less steep than some of the stuff in the last couple pitches.
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:35pm PT
|
If watching these guys climb is like watching paint dry, then watching me climb is likelike watching a 100 million years of erosion.
|
|
Brian
climber
California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2015 - 01:37pm PT
|
I was hoping that Tommy could lead the last pitch (seems like he is doing the leading anyway on these last pitches) and could top them out after having the vision to start on this, alone, severn years ago. However, looking at the topo, what's really great is that because it actually "ends" with 40 feet of 3rd class, they'll be able to summit together. Even better.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:37pm PT
|
Topo repost
Two pitches to the third class!
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:37pm PT
|
Looks like Kevin's taking this lead.
|
|
Tvash
climber
Seattle
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:40pm PT
|
It's like watching paint dry on a Picasso.
More accurately, it's like watching the painting happen.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:41pm PT
|
This live feed sh#t is pretty cool!
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:41pm PT
|
Makes sense. Probably leans toward his specialties on the 13 face climbing. Looks slabby.
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:43pm PT
|
Well played tvash.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:43pm PT
|
More accurately, it's like watching the painting happen.
Yes!
Here we go!
|
|
Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2015 - 01:46pm PT
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Feet propped up, watching live stream on the 27" iMac while reading these posts on the iPad.
Best of both worlds!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:48pm PT
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Whip! Gonna figure it out before the next go ?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:48pm PT
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Sometimes it's drying, sometimes it's in the air, ala Pollock!
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phile
Trad climber
SF, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:49pm PT
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Did Kevin just fall after the first bolt? I missed it.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:50pm PT
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Yo-Yo on lead??
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throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:50pm PT
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They need a Lembert Dome cam.
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pissed
Trad climber
Lake Placid NY and Scranton PA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:51pm PT
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Phile, looked like it
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John M
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:51pm PT
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Yes… he fell.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:51pm PT
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As mentioned earlier the angle shooting so high up messes up the aspect. Gotta tilt your head to the left to see it's real steepness.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:51pm PT
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I'm watching both on my Mac Mini with only 2 gigs of RAM. Having it crash and having to reboot Firefox is part of the drama!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:51pm PT
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Yup. Two falls now. He's gonna work it before coming back to the belay.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:51pm PT
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I am sure that big old rack isn't helpful on delicate .13a traverses...
Working it out before the next go is my guess...
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:52pm PT
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Uh oh.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:52pm PT
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"Sure boss, I'll get you that TPS report. Right after KJ figures out this 13a sequence."
"WTF are you talking about?"
"Shhhhhh, he's popped a couple of times right off the belay"
"What?"
"Go away, this is crucial."
"So is that report."
"Shhh."
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Port
Trad climber
Norwalk, CT
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:53pm PT
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Hot damn that looks hard. 3 tries now...
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:53pm PT
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KJ on the sharp end! Got that jug!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:54pm PT
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Might as well hang the draws too.. Lol
I got two feeds going.. Gotta have a backup.. Lol
One just died.. Lol
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:55pm PT
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Gotta say, THIS is TV!
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jcory86
Big Wall climber
Grass Valley, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:57pm PT
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Soooo...Kevin just fell. Doesnt he lowers and go again? Maybe gonna check out the moves and preplace gear now? Either way SEND IT!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:57pm PT
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Classic yoyo style?
Or will he pull and relead?
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:59pm PT
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Looks as if he's finished the traverse and staring up the dihedral
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2015 - 01:59pm PT
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It's like watching paint dry on a Picasso.
More accurately, it's like watching the painting happen.
Ha! Well put! I guess I'm more for viewing the finished product, as I think I'd get bored watching Caravaggio paint after 15 minutes as well! But to each his own. Sounds like second to last pitch is underway. Gonna be a nice mid-afternoon top-out and viewing of the sunset with family and friends I suppose. I trust folks will have hiked up a suitable celebratory beverage of their choice.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:59pm PT
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He fell but started again from the stance at the beginning of the pitch.
I don't think he needs to unclip and reclip the bolt to make it legit.
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stunewberry
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:00pm PT
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Wonder how many people are watching, world-wide. Pretty cool, no Bud Light ads. Thanks, NBC.
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:02pm PT
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Where is the camera for the live feed? It looks as if it is almost at their level.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:02pm PT
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I.e. Classic yoyo!
Cheers to them!
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:02pm PT
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Getting warm up there. Heatwaves in the video
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:05pm PT
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I would guess the camera is in El Cap Meadow with a HUGE lens like it typically is.
I don't think you could drive a satellite truck up to the top of Higher Cathedral spire.
Unless there's a parking lot with a view of the captain, like by Sentinel Dome. Is Glacier Point road still open?
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Tvash
climber
Seattle
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:05pm PT
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Well played, Jaybro.
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Matt's
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:05pm PT
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kevin is sewing this pitch up!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:06pm PT
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That was totally a yo yo. I bet tommy leads it with the gear in and kevin follows
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:07pm PT
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If we all keep watching and the numbers are up, they'll probably broadcast more climbing in the future. Get you friends watching too.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver, Colorado
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:08pm PT
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KJ redeeming himself on this pitch, placing gear on lead.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:09pm PT
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Is this It?
Is this the final roped bit?
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:10pm PT
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Kevin looking smooth up the dihedral. Looks like he's at the start of the 12a section. Placing some pro.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:11pm PT
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This 12a pitch, then a 12b and then 3d class!!
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:12pm PT
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We need to see a 50 footer to make it onto the nightly news....
Possible. They do run it out.
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:12pm PT
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The topout beverage is waiting for them.
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John M
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:14pm PT
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:16pm PT
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Kevin rigging the belay.
Camera guy swinging way to the left. Tommy cleaning up his belay.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:16pm PT
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Yoyo it is.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:16pm PT
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13a redemption and kick assery, you mean!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:17pm PT
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The revolution Is being televised!
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phile
Trad climber
SF, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:17pm PT
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Who do they keep waving to out to the far right? "Hi Half Dome!"
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:17pm PT
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Gonna make the five o'clock news?!?
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:18pm PT
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How many beers did they bring?
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:20pm PT
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Knott enough!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:20pm PT
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They got whiskey, Larry... Calvert, I think....
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Slabby D
Trad climber
B'ham WA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:21pm PT
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I remember the absolutely overwhelming joy I felt reaching the belay two pitches below the top of the Nose. The inflection point where you knew the top would be shortly at hand. Imagine how amazing KJ feels right now! First time up El Cap. Holy crap!
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John M
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:22pm PT
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Its getting crowded up there. I see at least 4 other people besides Tommy and Kevin.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:22pm PT
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As if there isn't a party on top. I bet there's media up there like there was for Harding and Caldwell.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:23pm PT
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What is this "yo-yo" you all speak of??
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:23pm PT
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Im gonna climb 2 letter grades harder this year just because of these guys.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:23pm PT
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Would somebody tell the cameraman to zoom in please?
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:23pm PT
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NBC's getting their money's worth on this one.
2 or 3 guys/gals, a camera truck and probably tens of thousands watching.
They've got two cameras. Just switched to Tommy and then back to Kev.
I think they're waiting on the swinging camera guy.
Kev hauling a pack on the tag line.
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Mei
Trad climber
Was one
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:24pm PT
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I hope there is Kleenex at the top.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:25pm PT
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What is this "yo-yo" you all speak of??
Kevin whipped on the first bolt 3 times and they never pulled the rope. He came back to the belay...
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:27pm PT
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WHOOPS
Tommy slides off the first move.
Kev unclipped all the bolts on the 13a traverse.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:27pm PT
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Tommy whipped too
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:27pm PT
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Tc fell on same move..
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:28pm PT
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There's like over 12 media trucks and vehicles out there.
The whole El Cap straight is bumper to bumper with rubber neckers.
It's a total media nightmare like the OJ trial or something like that.
What a circus ......
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Mei
Trad climber
Was one
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:30pm PT
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Wish I was there.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:30pm PT
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correction, all but one with a very long runner.
And Tommy's now on the easy end of the traverse
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:30pm PT
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That was smooth.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:31pm PT
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and they can't see it as well as we are.. unless you are Tom E.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:31pm PT
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I would love to be at that circus right now!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:31pm PT
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Top out by 4:20 rocky mtn time zone time?
" time be time mon" - William Gibson via character Malcolm, Neuromencer
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:33pm PT
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amazing heat waves in the video at this magnification.
If you're prone to seasickness you might be better off not watching.....;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:34pm PT
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Tommy's wishing he placed less pro.. Lol
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HermantheJerman
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:34pm PT
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Did the camera guy actually try to take him out with a quickdraw???
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:37pm PT
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Dammit ropes! ;)
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:37pm PT
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yeah, but Kevin wanted the pro!
about 20 foot runout just now.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:38pm PT
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stay chill dudes!
Tommy into the 12a finish of this pitch
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CCT
Trad climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:39pm PT
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I saw that too, Herman. Oops!
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:39pm PT
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My wife Lori is in Santa Rosa at the moment and she sent a nice article from their paper. Here is an excerpt:
Some of Jorgeson’s friends and family members were reported to be hiking up the steep Upper Yosemite Falls Trail late Tuesday afternoon. More planned to hike to the rim early Wednesday morning, said Jerry Dodrill, a climber from Sebastopol and friend of Jorgeson’s.
A buoyant feeling of expectancy filled the meadow below, and the champagne was chilling. Dodrill said Iron Horse Winery in Graton had donated several bottles of its Ocean Reserve sparkling wine for a celebration at the summit.
Link:
http://www.pressdemocrat.com/news/3374514-181/climbers-on-verge-of-finishing?page=1
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:40pm PT
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Fist bump for the finish of #31
1 more to go!
These guys make it look SO easy! dyamn!!!!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:41pm PT
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ABC feed had some live sound from the meadow cheering this pitch
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:41pm PT
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I'm watching two different live feeds... and one of them is not live, or both of them. haha They are not sync'd. lol
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:42pm PT
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Happiness is swapping leads! Final pitch!
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:44pm PT
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Seems like a zoo on top of El Cap.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:45pm PT
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This is really pretty cool.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:46pm PT
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Not really getting much work done today...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:46pm PT
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Nbc feed just conked but it's back. Got the abc feed running now too. Abc camera guy now on crack..
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:47pm PT
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I wonder if Dean Caldwell - no, biological, relation- is watching this...
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:48pm PT
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They should totally drop trou and top out naked...
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throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:49pm PT
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or the ghost of Harding
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phile
Trad climber
SF, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:49pm PT
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"I wonder if Dean Caldwell - no, biological, relation- is watching this..."
HA! Nice one.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:50pm PT
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I know they will interview Royal Robbins about this... and he will say something nice... but what can really be said, you know?
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:50pm PT
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Apparently Honnold is bring TCs kid fitz up the east ledges to meet him up top now.
That's so cool!
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2015 - 02:52pm PT
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Alright! I'm back in for the final pitch. Ready to toast to their success!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:53pm PT
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Nbc feed is ahead.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:56pm PT
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Hey, Tommy puts his rope in his teeth just like I do!!
I thought at 5.12 that was considered aid!
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:56pm PT
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I think Obama is going to land in the meadow in his helicopter any moment now
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:56pm PT
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I am gonna have to be late to work...
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:56pm PT
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looking balancey...
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:59pm PT
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Nat Geo feed ahead by at least 30 secs.
Tommy nearly to the top of the flake in the corner
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 02:59pm PT
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Tommy just climbed out of abc camera frame.. Lol
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John M
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:01pm PT
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I have a bunch of sites open and was looking at one wondering why they weren't moving, wondering if the feed was frozen, and then realized I was looking at a picture.. LOL
Man.. they must be so stoked right now. Keep your focus guys.
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throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:02pm PT
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have another toke john
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:02pm PT
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Alex is free soloing the East Ledges with Fritz in his teeth.
Harding is watching from heaven/hell. Totally shitfaced by now.
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:02pm PT
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My old plymouth I mean toshiba satellite is getting a workout.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:03pm PT
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up he goes on the 12b lieback
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:04pm PT
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I think I've led that pitch, on aid, wish I could remember it!
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:05pm PT
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He's GOT IT
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2015 - 03:05pm PT
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And... it goes!
After a good adventure, I often call to mind a bit of Horace's Odes:
Happy the man, and happy he alone,
He who can call today his own:
He who, secure within, can say,
Tomorrow do thy worst, for I have lived today.
Be fair or foul or rain or shine
The joys I have possessed, in spite of fate, are mine.
Not Heaven itself upon the past has power,
But what has been, has been, and I have had my hour.
Seems apropos for the team. Congratulations Tommy and Kevin. Toasting your success!
Brian
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:05pm PT
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who is going to show footage on the top?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:05pm PT
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Tommy's stoked!
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver, Colorado
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:06pm PT
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I feel like I've been belaying these guys all day. Now, back to work.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:06pm PT
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It's a f*#ked up haul, from there.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:07pm PT
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WooHooooo!
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:07pm PT
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lieback finish - yea!
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:07pm PT
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I actually teared up watching that. A 7 year saga comes to a close. Well done Tommy (and Kevin). You are an inspiration.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:12pm PT
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Will they beat Honnold to the top?
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:12pm PT
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This is their day. Congratulations Tommy and Kevin!
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:13pm PT
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Jerry Dodrill holding celebration bubbles.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:13pm PT
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Kevin looking at the dicey traverse to the easy flake system.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:14pm PT
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The comments on the abc feed are funny.
"He's waiting so they can go up together."
Sounds like they are getting ready to cover the finish live on TV.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:14pm PT
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Go Kevin!
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:15pm PT
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KJ casts off. Now how did that move go?
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:16pm PT
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abc link plz?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:17pm PT
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Yeah, go Kevin!
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John M
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:18pm PT
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ABC had a mic open for the crowd cheers, but then forgot and left it open. They just shut it off. They also missed catching Kevin start out.
mic back on.. someone shut off the damn car alarm.. haha
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:20pm PT
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Thanks Labrat.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:21pm PT
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Sounds back on but someone's car alarm is going off LOL.
Haha, that was funny. Even Tommy was looking down like "really, during the last crux?"
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:21pm PT
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Kevin still finishing lieback. Abc feed focusing on tommy belaying
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2015 - 03:21pm PT
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Boom!
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:22pm PT
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All hands up un celebration!!!!!
Kevin and Tommy on big ledge at last belay!!!
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:22pm PT
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up rope!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:23pm PT
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Hurrah!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:23pm PT
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That was it!
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:25pm PT
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They've still got to fight through the 40' of 3rd class....
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:26pm PT
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Tommy's got a beard!
Visible in the vid.
Amazing lenses.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:26pm PT
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and a mob of hero worshippers!!
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LAhiker
Social climber
Los Angeles
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:27pm PT
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They probably smell quite ripe...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:28pm PT
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#3rd class cruxin for the win!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:28pm PT
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congrats to the team...
big props in realizing a vision (which is, perhaps, still a work in progress).
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:28pm PT
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unroped for the first time in days. and there they go.
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:29pm PT
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Yay! So cool! Back to work i go...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:29pm PT
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where'd who go?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:30pm PT
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Such a great accomplishment!!!
Congratulations to all involved.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:30pm PT
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They need a dummy manikin right now and throw it off to the end of a 70 meter rope.
Watch everyone in the meadow sh!t a brick ......
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:32pm PT
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LOL.
Hopefully they'll do a walk to the edge together arms raised ala Hans and Alex.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:32pm PT
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Well done lads!!!!!
Werner, you've got an evil imagination!
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John M
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:32pm PT
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Who has the live feed from on top..
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:33pm PT
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Does anybody have live feed from the top?
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:33pm PT
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Dawn Wall tick
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David D.
Trad climber
California
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:35pm PT
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I gotta say, I teared up a bit watching Kevin pull over from the lie back and give Tommy a hug. What an unbelievably inspiring effort. The years of quiet toil these guys put in for this day... I can't imagine how good it feels.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:36pm PT
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From Alex's facebook:
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:43pm PT
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Facebook, Tweets, and Instagram is all I'm seeing from the top. Nothing live.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:45pm PT
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SICK! Congrats to them!
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:45pm PT
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Brian Williams just did the story on NBC Nightly News on the East Coast. Supposedly they're doing more coverage from the summit later in the broadcast.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:57pm PT
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Very impressive!
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 04:01pm PT
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They're hiking up the Yosemite Falls trail way long and slow.
Go up the east ledges in 1/4 the time it takes to hike that way.
They should of hired some bad ass climbers to blitz up the East Ledges.
Where's Potter and his crew?
They can do it in an hour ....
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 04:03pm PT
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"They need a dummy manikin right now and throw it off to the end of a 70 meter rope."
Lol!! You old bastard Werner.
Fun way to spend the afternoon, I've gotta say. Congratulations and thanks guys.
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Jan 14, 2015 - 04:05pm PT
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I think Obama is going to land in the meadow in his helicopter any moment now
Actually Werner, Miguel Almaguer just reported on NBC News that Obama is expected to call the two climbers. Lol. How cool would it be if he said in his nerdy voice, "Boy, I've heard from some folks that you really crushed it."
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 04:08pm PT
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Good man our President is.
Three cheers for Obama
Ooooorrrraaahhhh .....
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duke of puke
climber
boulder, co
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Jan 14, 2015 - 04:12pm PT
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What does "Red pointing" mean?
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jan 14, 2015 - 04:15pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 04:16pm PT
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Lol. This was freeclimbing. Red points don't include yo yo's
Congrats to both Tommy and Kevin. This was a monumental effort.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jan 14, 2015 - 04:19pm PT
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Double D
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 04:19pm PT
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Big congrats to both Kevin and Tommy... quite a feat. Great to see the coverage of this otherwise neglected sport.
And yes Werner... the dummy stunt on a 70mm rope would have been awesome!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jan 14, 2015 - 04:34pm PT
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yeeeeeeeeeeehaaaaaaaaw!
I went climbing somewhere around when KJ was cruising in the flare and I wasn't real optimistic. Way to go boys!!!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jan 14, 2015 - 04:36pm PT
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Very cool.
Couldn't have imagined such a thing while banging pins up that wall almost forty years ago.
Congratulations.
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Jan 14, 2015 - 04:45pm PT
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NBC photo
So psyched for them, Congratulations Kevin and Tommy!
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 04:47pm PT
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There was a FB post that Alex H. hauled Tommy's kid up the East Ledges to see his dad.
Very cool event, all around - and big congrats for getting it done!
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bergbryce
climber
East Bay, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 04:48pm PT
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champagne? where's the effin' cobra? lame.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Jan 14, 2015 - 04:49pm PT
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Awesome! Incredible climbing feat, incredible perseverance. Great job gents!!!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jan 14, 2015 - 04:50pm PT
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"who's going back for the gear?"
NOT IT!
NOT IT!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jan 14, 2015 - 04:54pm PT
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Wasn't there a Largo quote: paraphrased "some climbers upon completing El Cap abandon their gear at the summit and simply walk away after completing the culmination of their climbing careers."
This certainly qualifies.
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Jan 14, 2015 - 04:59pm PT
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Obama - "Tommy, we tortured some folks. You guys tortured yourselves".
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 05:01pm PT
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Great,
all Werner needs is a bunch of drunken climbers and noobs staggering down East Ledges.
Or perhaps they'll build a big bonfire and bivvy on the summit like the Good Ole Days?
(climbing out of my snarky voice)
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 05:01pm PT
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"There was a FB post that Alex H. hauled Tommy's kid up the East Ledges to see his dad."
I don't think this happened. The NYTimes article said that Tommy's wife decided not to bring him up....
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Jan 14, 2015 - 05:06pm PT
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Has a team of American rock climbers ever been recognized by the prez before? Is this another first?
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jan 14, 2015 - 05:09pm PT
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Get ready for the talk show circuit. He'll be in NYC all week doing morning shows.
Hope he gets paid.
All my non-climber friends have to have this whole thing explained. And it takes a few minutes.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 05:10pm PT
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You have non-climber friends? That's weird...
;-)
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Jan 14, 2015 - 05:12pm PT
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Also a lead story on PBS newshour.
All my non-climber friends have to have this whole thing explained. And it takes a few minutes. Check it out Spider.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 05:15pm PT
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Obama -
"I thought white men couldn't jump til I saw that 8 ft dyno"
"Tommy, we tortured some folks. You guys tortured yourselves".
LOL ....
yeah they'll be on "Good Morning America" for sure.
There's rumor that Judge Judy wants them on her show too ...... ?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 14, 2015 - 05:21pm PT
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i hope i'm not the only one who feels relived that they pulled it off, and that they did it as a team, and that someone tagged the dyno pitch.
i really love the pairing of the grizzled veteran and the boulderer. and as someone who has been mostly a soloist and boulderer for the last decade, i've really come to appreciate roped teams. even, in this case, including roped teams with support crews.
really weird world, that i wouldn't have expected back in the 1980s-- tommy has done a textbook alpine-style, fast-and-light cutting edge prize (the fitz traverse with honnold) and now done a cutting-edge siege prize. used to be, one aspired to the one or the other.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jan 14, 2015 - 06:01pm PT
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I'm guessing about 2 percent of us can jump. I'm not one of them, not even close (quick for a white guy, though).
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Tvash
climber
Seattle
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Jan 14, 2015 - 06:02pm PT
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these guys have their own reality show before they get their own reality show. heart pumping watching them top out. well earned, well deserved.
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 06:10pm PT
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That's a cool NBC clip, hey, Brian Williams to boot and Tom Evans!
This has been so fun to watch. So proud of them!
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jan 14, 2015 - 06:12pm PT
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Amazing. And with style.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Jan 14, 2015 - 06:22pm PT
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Best afternoon of television I ever watched.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jan 14, 2015 - 06:38pm PT
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Let's just say that this afternoon was not the most productive day I've had at work for a while!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 14, 2015 - 06:54pm PT
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The last time a Caldwell did an FA on the Dawn Wall, Nixon was president, I don't think he gave Caldwell and Harding even a "Sock it to me!"
Props to Obama's twitter feed!
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Jan 14, 2015 - 07:08pm PT
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Q. What do you hope this does for climbing?
CALDWELL I would love for this to open people’s minds to what an amazing sport this is. I think the larger audience’s conception is that we’re thrill seekers, out there for an adrenaline rush. We really aren’t at all. It’s about spending our lives in these beautiful places and forming these incredible bonds with friends and family. It’s really a lifestyle. It’s superhealthy, and the climbing world is some of the most psyched, great people around. And if that love can spread, that’s really a great thing.
--from the Q & A with Tommy and Kevin on the front page of the New York Times.
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Gene
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 07:09pm PT
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Amazing. I am pleased that the TEAM spent the time required for both to do the traverse pitches and complete the project together. Major props on many levels beyond the technical mastery.
I wonder in 10 years if Tommy will consider the Dawn Wall, the Fitz Traverse, or two free El Cap routes IAD his finest achievement, assuming he doesn't up the ante. After all, each new climb you do is just training for the next.
As to Kevin, not bad for a boulderer. The lad showed amazing guts and perseverance.
I am also happy that Tom Evans got the recognition he did as a photographer and spokesperson for the Tribe.
Good times.
g
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crøtch
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 07:22pm PT
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I caught a lengthy conversation with Doug Robinson on the BBC news this evening. Good job Doug!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 14, 2015 - 07:25pm PT
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Really cool to watch this today. So happy for everyone involved. Today is a proud day for climbing. Thanks Tommy and Kevin, biggest congrats on finishing this project.
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Tvash
climber
Seattle
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Jan 14, 2015 - 08:22pm PT
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I gotta say, watching this amazing feat as it happened, with all the unabashed enthusiasm here, was a great experience. It took a lot of the dreariness out of our snow free winter up here :D
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jan 14, 2015 - 08:52pm PT
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In a sense, this event rounds out my climbing career, such as it is. Harding, Merry, and Whitmore completed their ascent of the Nose about a year after my first climb, the Owen-Spaulding route on the Grand. I remember, as a teenager, reading the AAC Journal account with an almost total lack of comprehension, but still with a sense of wonder at the determination it took to confront and resolve what seemed at the time to be insurmountable difficulties.
I can't help feeling that Caldwell and Jorgenson have written the concluding chapter of a story that began 57 years ago. Not that there haven't been and won't be further amazing developments, but this particular ascent has the air of a quest, a triumph, once again, of an indomitable spirit of optimism and a profound love of the game.
Although there are naysayers, I don't think the uncertainties and challenges were any less real and daunting in 2015 than they were in 1958. The nature of those uncertainties and challenges has certainly evolved, but the project was as daunting, in its own way, as anything ever undertaken by climbers. I honestly can't imagine how anyone who has given over some part of their life to climbing can't, at this moment, be rejoicing to see a quest of this magnitude come to such a wonderful conclusion.
Cheers to Caldwell and Jorgeson!
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aguacaliente
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 09:29pm PT
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It's fascinating to watch this unfold and to see it break into the larger public attention / media sphere. Gives a little hint of what it might have been like to see the circus in 1959 or 1970. I watched the final top out on the video stream, then clicked over to the NY Times homepage and the leader at the top (above the title) was Breaking News: Climbers Summit Dawn Wall. Several days ago I would never have thought they'd put it in the leader. What is also cool is that I think some of the message that Tommy and Kevin are giving on how this is about perseverance, not being daredevils, is getting across. The Times article had a good quote from Tommy about that.
Huge props to them for getting it done, and to journalists like John Branch who take the time to understand it (and to his newspaper for being willing to pay for the time it takes to do quality coverage in a bottom-line world).
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 09:46pm PT
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Inspired by Keven's fight to the death near miss Kent,
This quote is from Tommy's November 18 facebook post, where he announced that he had led p14.
What it means is that Kevin nearly led p14 that day, tried very hard, but fell near the end.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 09:59pm PT
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Jawon
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:11pm PT
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Is there any way to get a recording of the live stream? I think I would prefer watching it before the soundtracks and editors get to it. The "real life" version with the rests, waiting, fumbles, getting off-route... you know, what real climbers do.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 15, 2015 - 02:43am PT
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Collected links (mostly to supertopo threads) for the Free Dawn project from 2007-2015:
http://web.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/longhf.htm#freedawn
Also, I modified the original topo to correct some ratings and add pitch numbers.
The pitch numbers almost line up with Sloan's topo, except he has an extra short 5.13 pitch below Wino Tower.
The current pitch count by grade: 7-8 x 5.14, 10 x 5.13, 8 x 5.12
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Rattlesnake Arch
Social climber
Home is where we park it
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Jan 15, 2015 - 03:00am PT
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...this particular ascent has the air of a quest, a triumph, once again, of an indomitable spirit of optimism and a profound love of the game.
+1
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Bad Climber
climber
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Jan 15, 2015 - 06:14am PT
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What Rgold said:
Although there are naysayers, I don't think the uncertainties and challenges were any less real and daunting in 2015 than they were in 1958. The nature of those uncertainties and challenges has certainly evolved, but the project was as daunting, in its own way, as anything ever undertaken by climbers. I honestly can't imagine how anyone who has given over some part of their life to climbing can't, at this moment, be rejoicing to see a quest of this magnitude come to such a wonderful conclusion.
Cheers to Caldwell and Jorgenson!
+a lot, yo. I'm so thrilled these fine gentlemen did the deed.
BAd
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver, Colorado
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Jan 15, 2015 - 09:26am PT
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^ this high resolution image of El Cap is really great.
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2015 - 10:38am PT
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For folks that find interviews, photos, and stories about this ascent (good ones, not the embarrassing shite that appears in much popular press), it would be cool to post links here. I, for one, don't have a television and don't spend too much time cruising the interwebs, so it would be nice to preserve good material related to this climb by linking to this thread. Sort of an informal archive.
In any case, bravo to Tommy and Kevin. I can't wait to read the story of this project when written by a good wordsmith who is actually a climber, or to see the photos from Doodrill and others, or to see the film.
Brian
[As an aside, for everyone so excited about how much press this is getting "climbing," as a sport/way of life, consider what you are saying. There are already way too many climbers. The environment is getting trashed, etc. What we really need in the climbing press is a good, solid, peer-reviewed study that links climbing (perhaps wearing a harness?) to male impotency, early-onset Alzheimer's, and aggressive cancer. That'll thin the herd!]
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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Jan 15, 2015 - 10:51am PT
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[As an aside, for everyone so excited about how much press this is getting "climbing," as a sport/way of life, consider what you are saying. There are already way too many climbers. The environment is getting trashed, etc. What we really need in the climbing press is a good, solid, peer-reviewed study that links climbing (perhaps wearing a harness?) to male impotency, early-onset Alzheimer's, and aggressive cancer. That'll thin the herd!]
Those effects and cirrhosis have been known for years and it hasn't weeded anybody out yet....:-)
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Jan 15, 2015 - 11:00am PT
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I heard there's supposed to be a news conference at 11:00 am (right now).
Anyone know of a live telecast / stream?
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jan 15, 2015 - 11:01am PT
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Seems like the right time to take the wide view and celebrate, but let me zoom in to the tight zoom for a quick question: is this pitch as wickedly run out for the follower as it looks? Also looks runout for the leader getting to that high point before the down climb...
Photo from Tom @ www.elcapreport.com
Somebody said it up upthread - the large-scale drama and overall cutting-edge difficulty of this project haven't left a lot of air in the room for appreciating these holy-sh#t-look-at-that type details. But holy sh#t, look at that!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 15, 2015 - 11:05am PT
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Le Bruce for sure run out on lead. There was a piece between the high point and Kevin. Then Kevin left the high point piece for the down climb to the belay. Or the next highest point, can't remember.
Run out 12's, 13's, and 14's. Ahhh, I'll stick to 5.8R.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Jan 15, 2015 - 11:06am PT
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Channel 7 (ABC Bay Area) has it live right now
Edit: HAD it live for a couple minutes. Would like to see more!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 15, 2015 - 11:11am PT
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Close Justin. If you look closely there's another piece in the right corner up against the wall. That's the one they had the camera boys retrieve.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 15, 2015 - 11:15am PT
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Yeah couldn't remember which high point. Factor 2 Mike, haha.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 15, 2015 - 11:17am PT
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Lol. I need to be sponsored so i can just leave gear willy nilly.. Lol
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 15, 2015 - 11:25am PT
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Ha, for sure.
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