what are essential Valley must-dos (nonclimbing)??

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marky

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 13, 2006 - 06:12pm PT
I've got the third week of October lined up for the Valley, and want to fully exploit it by seeing and doing all I can. I intend to climb a few classic moderates (Royal Arches, Nutcracker, etc.), but given that my partner will be around for only two days, I want to do all I can by myself for the remaninig three or four days.

Right now, my short list includes hiking to Glacier Point and tagging Clouds Rest. What else? [I like hiking, peakbagging, photography. Oh, and I probably will have a mountain bike to tool around on if that matters]
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Sep 13, 2006 - 06:24pm PT
If Snake Dike isn't on the agenda (much more unique and spectacular than Nutcracker, IMO), the hike up the HD cables is great. The hike to the top of El Cap is less harrowing than the cables, but an incredibly peaceful and beautiful walk, and you might not see a single other person once you turn off of the falls trail towards El Cap. The summit area is like another planet.
the Fet

climber
A urine, feces, and guano encrusted ledge
Sep 13, 2006 - 06:37pm PT
The top of Half Dome is magical.

The bike will be fun, you have to stay on the paved bike trail, but you can't beat the scenery!

Solo Aid the Le Conte Boulder Bolt Ladder, do it at night and inebriated for bonus points.

Boulder.

5 minute walk to the base of the Nose.

5 minute walk to the top of the Rostrum.

Hike/4th class to the start of West Face of Leaning Tower.

Take photos at Tunnel View.

Short trails to bottom of Bridaveil and Yosemite Falls.

Long trail to the top of Yosemite Falls and out to Yosemite Point and check out Lost Arrow.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 13, 2006 - 06:44pm PT
The El Cap lieback is good fun. Not found in SuperTopo, surprisingly. Grade indeterminate. Recommended equipment: lawn chair, sunblock, liquid and solid refreshments, binoculars, sunglasses, "Yosemite Big Walls" (SuperTopo). Can be done solo, or in teams. (Rope not required.) Length from 30 minutes to 30 days. Additional entertainment provided by tourists.

See "Coonyard Mouths Off" (Ascent, 1972, page 50) for a helpful stylistic photo.
BoKu

Trad climber
Douglas Flat, CA
Sep 13, 2006 - 06:50pm PT
The trail to HD is usually quite crowded on weekends but on a weekday it might be OK. My favorite (nonclimbing) way to see HD is to drive up 120 to the Porcupine Flat trailhead and then hike down to North Dome.
JOEY.F

Social climber
sebastopol
Sep 13, 2006 - 08:59pm PT
Sierra Point
An unmaintained lookout/trail about 3/4 mile in length from Happy Isles. You can see Vernal, Nevada, Illouette, and Yosemite falls from this spot and I've only seen 1 party there
over the last 12 yrs. Also, The Ledge Trail to Glacier Point, another unmaintained gem.
davidji

Social climber
CA
Sep 13, 2006 - 09:02pm PT
Visit Mariposa Grove to see Giant Sequoias.

Standing Strong

Mountain climber
the other side
Sep 13, 2006 - 09:16pm PT
If you were going in May or June I'd suggest the moonbow.
woodcraft

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Sep 13, 2006 - 09:38pm PT
I second the ledge trail (X-country actually) to Glacier Point, & back down the 4 mile trail. Sunnyside bench to top of lower falls... Devils bathtub... El Cap base... hike up to Cathedral Spires... 2/3 of the way up upper Yosemite falls trail, and traverse out on big 4th class ledge- exposed!
sab

climber
Bay Area, CA
Sep 14, 2006 - 01:17am PT
For scrambles in the valley check out:

http://www.summitpost.org/route/157844/valley-scrambles.html

A third for heading up the ledge trail to glacier point, but then come back down the panorama trail to the mist trail.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
Sep 14, 2006 - 01:31am PT
Go to Steamboat (if there is any water left)

elcapfool

Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
Sep 14, 2006 - 08:23am PT
With dirtbagging becomming trendy, I thought I'd start the Yosemite Experience tour.
You start by waiting in line for a campsite, but the last one goes to the guy in front of you.
Then to the Cafe to snake someones breakfast when they go to the bathroom.
After a quick stop at the Taj-ma-bathroom, it's off to the bouldering circuit, bluffington heights/ 5.2/5.12.
Then you dump out all your gear behind your truck and stand there untill noon.
After that, it is time to absorb the timeless wisdom of the Deli Lama over a sandwich and snake piss.
Then we'd make our way to the meadow to stare in awe for a while before hiking up to our fixed lines on something obscure.
You can opt to haul a load of water to the high point, no added charge...

The advanced tour then teaches you how to get 14 beers out of a pitcher at the bar and culminates with running through the talus with no headlamp eluding Rangers with nightvision.

Add on perks include making people with jobs feel like they are wasting their lives, and pissing on tourists from a considerable height.

I can gaurantee you will meet a least three people you have heard of, although how impressed you are with them is entirely up to you.

Repete customers have the option to take courses in "How to eat sushi for free", "the gear trees of Christmas", and "humping for profit".

The popular "Bouldering with Chongo", and "Advanced Slackline Technique" seminars are booked until further notice.
fareastclimber

Big Wall climber
Hong Kong & Wales
Sep 14, 2006 - 09:10am PT
Umm, the Couch during the evening. A wander around El Cap's base?
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Sep 14, 2006 - 10:27am PT
The no-trail to Ribbon Falls. it will be yours for the day.
Gunkie

climber
East Coast US
Sep 14, 2006 - 01:05pm PT
Let your vehicle run down to vapors, then fill it up with premium @ the Crane Flat gas station. For extra adventure, do this with a large RV.

Most expensive gas in America? Or is that claim in Moab?
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Sep 14, 2006 - 01:11pm PT
I'd second going to see some giant sequoias. I've only been to the wawona grove in the south end of the park (45 min drive from valley floor) but it was great. I'm sure the other groves are great too.
curlie

Trad climber
SLO, CA
Sep 14, 2006 - 01:16pm PT
The Tuolumne Grove (by Crane Flat) sucks. Very few actual Sequoias and lots of normal trees in between. Not worth it, IMO. You don't get that sense of grandeur that is present in other groves.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 14, 2006 - 01:17pm PT
If you have a taste for history, read "The Yosemite" by John Muir, and do some of the things that Muir did. I particularly like his story of spending a windy night high in a big tree.

Anders

Edit: On second thought, spending a night in a tree might get you arrested or rescued or something - it would certainly be outside the box for the NPS. The "John Muir did it" defence may not work.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Sep 14, 2006 - 01:18pm PT
that is good to know. I was very impressed by the Wawona grove. The Grizzly Giant in particular was a very majestic tree. That old guy has a lot of character!
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Sep 14, 2006 - 01:28pm PT
See if you can get one of the locals to take you up to Indian Falls, above the Village. This time year it's probably the only falls you can stand under, for that shower fresh feel. Plus there are some great climbs nearby, things like Knucklebuster.
atchafalaya

Trad climber
California
Sep 14, 2006 - 01:35pm PT
my next valley goal, get: (1) Roper's Guide to the Valley
(2) Find routes by Charles and Enid Michael
(3) attempt to climb as many of the Michael's routes as possible.

The Michael's were way active in the sierras and valley back in the 20's. It was said, (i think in Roper's guide) that the Michael's climbed all the best valley routes that did not "require a rope" (3rd and 4th class). Note: might want a rope anyway. Ex. Michael's Chute on Michael Minaret rated 4th class.

The Michael's climbed some incredible stuff in the valley that probably has not seen repeats or at least not often, that would get to some gret viewpoints.

While it will involve "climbing" to do it without ropes and hardware would make for some good "other" activities...
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Sep 14, 2006 - 01:39pm PT
" The Tuolumne Grove (by Crane Flat) sucks."
YMMV!
"Not worth it, IMO."
- a one minute walk from a parking lot you'll probably drive by anyway? Come on, wouldn't just one giant Sequoia (especially if you haven't seen one before) make it "worth it"?

Although I'd agree the ones south of the park are better 'arrangements.'

Wich reminds me, the book Yosemite Tree Adventures (forgot the author's name, it's a self published deal) is usually availible in the valley. If you're into that sort of thing. Though, as Cilley said when he sneered at my copy,

"I could see doing this in your own yard but here, there's too many trees."

The Sequoia's they planted around the Ahwanee are worth checking out when strolling off the brunch. Not as big as the other ones mentioned, though.
Nibs

Trad climber
Humboldt, CA
Sep 14, 2006 - 01:51pm PT
Atch:
That's a great idea!! hope you don't mind if I steal that for myself.

seconding some ideas:
Blinny's Tamarack Flat to El Cap to the Falls trail - be sure to make the side trip to Eagle peak for one of the best views.

Porcupine Flat to North Dome

Ledge Trail to GP; Panorama trail back to the Valley

Sierra Point

Blinny's suggestion of leaving a bike at the end of Pohono, hitching to GP and hiking the trail back sounds great!

and October is a great time to be in Tuolumne Meadows...
atchafalaya

Trad climber
California
Sep 14, 2006 - 02:25pm PT
Steal away Nibs... I have the Ropers guide, and the Micheals climbed some wild looooooong routes back in the day. Would love to hear of a repeat of just one...
dmalloy

Trad climber
eastside
Sep 14, 2006 - 02:37pm PT
One thing to remember is that all the falls will be extremely small if they are running at all - kind of changes some of these trails and views.

I'll add a vote in favor of going to visit the Sequoias. I have been to the trees in Sequoia NP, and while the groves around Yosemite don't quite measure up, I still find spending time around these humungous, long-lived beings to be a very calming and refreshing experience. I have taken three people to the Tuolumne Grove for their first time seeing Sequoias and they have all felt amply rewarded for the time it took.

The Tuolumne Grove does have some amazing trees, including a huge double-trunked tree that dominates the forest, and an old downed trunk that you can crawl about 150 feet through; however, more people visit that grove, and the trail down to the trees is a paved road. The Merced Grove requires a little bit longer of a hike, but the trail in the grove is much smaller and very few people visit. At the very least you might be able to plan to hit that on the way to/from the Valley, or as part of a one or two-day trip to the Meadows.

Regarding Half Dome....depending on when you go, the cables might be down. If they are you can still make it up and down pretty easily, but I would strongly recommend bringing some work gloves, belay gloves, etc. - holding onto those cables with bare hands when the supports are down is highly uncomfortable.
Matt

Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
Sep 14, 2006 - 02:43pm PT
have sex in el cap meadow








oh, and never listen to anything that fattard types here
(floating the river is not so happenin in october)
JerryGarcia

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Sep 14, 2006 - 03:07pm PT
Dont pay to take the tram at Marriposa, its worth the walk to the top. The tree below isnt even the biggest, just the best pic I could find for comparison.


Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Sep 14, 2006 - 04:12pm PT
Yeah the giant sequoias are a good place to visit if you have a car.

For swimming, Rainbow Pool on Highway 120 (outside the park, but it is a drive) or down the fire trail from Rainbow Pool are Three Pools (as the name suggests), some great cliff diving in those places (be careful of water levels).

Russ, where is Steamboat?
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Sep 14, 2006 - 04:55pm PT
I second the hike to N. Dome via Porcupine Flat. It's four easy miles and a breathtaking view.

Also, watch the sunset from up on Sentinal Dome, just a 1 mile walk from the glacier point road, nice spot for a picnic dinner.

Walk along the base of El Cap to the E. Buttress. Take a trash bag and pick up anything you find enroute. The overhanging wall and streaked stone on the SE face is unlike any you will ever see. Sunrise from their is especially nice, looking across toward Cathedrals.

Hike to the base of the Upper Yos. falls. Check out the cave and crazy water worn rock.


Streak drunk and naked through the slide presentation at Curry Village. Don't get caught. Paper bag over head with eye holes is a nice touch. Watch the stairs on the far side of stage. ;-)

Edit: Oh, one more, go the the village store and spy out the really slow guy at the check stand. Short gray hair and glasses, can't remember his name. Wait till the line is really long before you go through. Be sure you ask him how long he has been working in the park and where. After about half an hour of strained recollection, pandemonium will have broken out.
10b4me

Trad climber
California
Sep 14, 2006 - 05:17pm PT
If you like photography, hit the Ansel Adams gallery.
take a drive up to Tuolumne Meadows
hit the MRB at least once
valygrl

climber
Santa Cruz
Sep 14, 2006 - 05:19pm PT
If Tioga Road is closed to auto traffic, ride your bike out it as far as you can.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Sep 14, 2006 - 08:28pm PT
Bring a crash pad to Lower Yosemite Falls, and when a touron asks you 'what's that for?'

You say "It's for gay love making"

Watch their eyes FLIP OUT!!

They get all scared and turn away.

closet homophobes
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 14, 2006 - 08:52pm PT
If you ask nicely, perhaps Chicken Skinner (aka Ken Yager) would let you look at some of the really neat historical stuff he's collected for the proposed Yosemite climbing museum. If you promise to help with the Yosemite Facelift in two weeks, and it's a rainy day, my guess is that the odds would improve.

Ken has made a multitude of postings to ST on his project, with lots of good photos. Somewhere there's a thread listing all the postings.

Anders
big wall paul

Trad climber
tahoe, CA
Jul 22, 2018 - 12:00pm PT
Is the ledge trail to glacier point an old adventure hike? I remember looking up there, from the pizza place at curry village, thinking that would be a fun adventure.
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Jul 22, 2018 - 01:17pm PT
It’s not recommended by just about anyone...however, having said that there are some that attempt it. I don’t know any of them. ;-)

You can google it and find some info about how to find it and what shape it is in. It is of course not maintained and has degraded extensively over the years...where it may not even be passable at present.

It is extremely sketchy (“someone” told me at least 5 years ago). I believe there has been rockfall activity up there in recent years so it may be more than an adventure now and probably not in the least safe.

The “trailhead” used to start behind a cabin that doesn’t even exist anymore.

I think it is likely way too unsafe.

Susan
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Jul 22, 2018 - 03:31pm PT
Is the ledge trail to glacier point an old adventure hike? I remember looking up there, from the pizza place at curry village, thinking that would be a fun adventure.

That is called "The Staircase Falls Trail." I got curious and went up there just below the great rock scar that wiped it out. There are traces of the old trail that ran for over 100 years. I stopped at the bronze plaque that said "trail closed danger do not pass" or something to that effect.

The trail is referenced in Le Conte's "Ramblings in the Sierra." He and a party of grad students from Stanford rode in to Glacier Point and took in the view. They'd been living on bacon and bread for a couple of weeks and someone told them there was food down there. They made it down to Curry in about an hour in cowboy boots, pigged out and hauled ass back up to ride around into the valley the proper way.

The book "Deaths in Yosemite" refernce a time in the 70s or 80s when someone hiking up there slipped and fell.

I plan to hike the route someday, very carefully. Looks like a bushwack in that gully up above the staircase.

Another fun "closed" trail is the trail to Sierra Point.
Da-Veed

Big Wall climber
Bigfork
Jul 23, 2018 - 09:40am PT
My favorite past time (non climbing) is having beers in the middle of the night at the bridge at Lower Yosemite Falls. Remarkably peaceful!

Go to the swimming holes below Upper Yosemite Falls. (Lost Arrow approach)

Night photography of water falls or headlamps on El Cap.

October would be a great time to do the Tenaya Canyon descent.

Go to Glacier Point and people watch at sunset on Half Dome.

Hike to the Diving Board above the Porcelain Wall. (Snake Dike approach)

Hike into and around Bud Lake in the Meadows.

Spray at El Cap Bridge.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Jul 23, 2018 - 10:19am PT
Just adding in ones I didn't see on here already:
 Bottom of Old Priest Grade Rd, check out the fish hatchery.
 Bodie, the ghost town northeast of Lee Vining
 Hike up Conness via whichever route you feel comfortable soloing
 Enjoy Yosemite in the winter time, hiking up 4 mile trail in the snow, or just enjoying an empty Camp 4 with a deep layer of snow on the picnic tables.
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
Jul 23, 2018 - 10:22am PT
The El Cap lieback is good fun. Not found in SuperTopo, surprisingly. Grade indeterminate. Recommended equipment: lawn chair, sunblock, liquid and solid refreshments, binoculars, sunglasses, "Yosemite Big Walls" (SuperTopo). Can be done solo, or in teams. (Rope not required.) Length from 30 minutes to 30 days. Additional entertainment provided by tourists.

See "Coonyard Mouths Off" (Ascent, 1972, page 50) for a helpful stylistic photo.

Interestingly enough, Sloan's Yosemite Freeclimbs book has a section for the El Cap Lieback I 1st Class, FA: 1868 John Muir, Galen Clark complete with topo and rack.
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