First Euro free ascent of The Nose.

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 20 in this topic
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 6, 2014 - 05:12am PT
Just got word that Jorg Verhoeven has freed The Nose over three days. I'm surprised it took that long for it to be freed again.
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
Nov 6, 2014 - 06:00am PT
YEEEHHHAAAWWW! Its about time!
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Nov 6, 2014 - 06:34am PT
You'd thunk it would be the first one picked by a Euro.
james Colborn

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Nov 6, 2014 - 06:55am PT
Finally, someone climbed the nose and no Euros were on it. Amazing.

Joking aside, amazing.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Nov 6, 2014 - 07:15am PT
So Jorg is the 4th person to free climb the Nose by my reckoning. Quite a feat! Nice job.

Lynn Hill
Tomy Caldwell
Beth Rodden
Jorg Verhoeven

You can debate Scott Burke's efforts elswhere.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 6, 2014 - 10:01am PT
Good job, Happy to see some real climbing getting done.

schwortz

Social climber
"close to everything = not at anything", ca
Nov 6, 2014 - 10:03am PT
if the wide boyz get credit for a "flash" of the freerider then doesn't scott burke get credit for a "free" nose?
nopantsben

climber
Nov 6, 2014 - 10:24am PT
f*#k yeah. Well done Jogi :)
bummer i couldn't be there.

Jorg on El Nino
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Nov 6, 2014 - 11:17am PT
proud achievement.
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2014 - 11:25am PT
I just talked with Angelo Angelilli who supported Jorg on the climb. The Great Roof went pretty easy and his send of the Changing Corners was very impressive and dynamic. Jorg used a Karate kick move to get into the corner and instead of doing a static sequence though the houdini move to the jug, he just threw a big dyno move. I guess he dosen't really know how to climb cracks and ended up making a lot of face climbing moves where he could have had used a crack. Its impressive what a 10 time world cup event champ can do on The Nose. Who is next?
dhayan

climber
los angeles, ca
Nov 6, 2014 - 11:51am PT
lol, i wish i was as "bad" a crack climber as him...
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Nov 6, 2014 - 02:32pm PT
Incredibly inspiring achievement! Nice work Jorg!!
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 6, 2014 - 02:51pm PT
SICKKKKKKK!!!!!!!!!

Now I have to try harder!
ryankelly

Trad climber
el portal
Nov 6, 2014 - 10:16pm PT
Amazing. Ben, he mentioned this briefly when he came by to pick up the gear a few weeks back and I was like cool and he was like yeah, "its only two pitches"

When he left I looked at the guidebook and I saw that it was actually more than that. I was like, damn he is way off, good luck Euro-dude!

Incredible accomplishment, too bad it will probably be under reported because he isn't on the payroll of some corporate American climbing corporation (as far as I know) Either way, I am sure there are plenty of nerds sitting in front of computers right now trying to figure out how to "leverage" this climb for their company, blog, or whatever they are trying to sling

My apologies for the rant.

WAY TO SEND JORG!!!!!!!!!!!!
WBraun

climber
Nov 6, 2014 - 10:25pm PT
Doesn't matter if it's under reported or not reported at all or all reported.

It's a fine achievement for anyone to be able to climb the entire El Capi-tan all free .......
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Nov 6, 2014 - 11:09pm PT
Cool! Will we get to see any video in the future?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 6, 2014 - 11:39pm PT
Jorg used a Karate kick move to get into the corner and instead of doing a static sequence though the houdini move to the jug, he just threw a big dyno move. I guess he dosen't really know how to climb cracks and ended up making a lot of face climbing moves where he could have had used a crack.

Oh...he didn't use the proper Yosemite technique? I guess he has to do it over again and this ascent doesn't count.

Seriously though. VERY IMPRESSIVE. How tall is he?
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Nov 6, 2014 - 11:57pm PT
... Angelo Angelilli who supported Jorg on the climb. The Great Roof went pretty easy ...
"supported" is right.
Look at the guitar string tightness of the belay.
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2014 - 07:46am PT
This picture was take when he was working the route.
ghisino

climber
Italy/France
Nov 9, 2014 - 11:20am PT
How tall is he

roughly 6 feet or a bit less i'd say. On the tall side of the strong climbers' spectrum, but definitely not a giant.
very rough estimate as camp 4 neighbour.

Glad he did it, as he surely invested some time working the changing corners pitch (as all other free ascenders i guess)
He never made a big deal of it though, when asked about his progress he would always, very calmly say something like "yeah i still need a bit more time on it, but it starts to feel good. I'm confident"
I have to say he sounded really credible!
Messages 1 - 20 of total 20 in this topic
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