Scott "Plaid" Peterson talks about soloing El Cap

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Messages 1 - 39 of total 39 in this topic
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 29, 2014 - 11:49am PT
[http://vimeo.com/110325725]
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Oct 29, 2014 - 12:46pm PT
This was an enjoyable few minutes :)
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Oct 29, 2014 - 01:26pm PT
Plaid, did you get a norelco?
Bargainhunter

climber
Oct 29, 2014 - 05:49pm PT
All good advice!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 29, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
Quite nice
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Oct 29, 2014 - 10:18pm PT
He nails the psychology of your first time. First timers should watch that.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Oct 30, 2014 - 09:21am PT
Good stuff, favorite line..

"you gotta be will in to do what it takes and suffer a little... ok, maybe a lot"

congrats again Scott!!! a lifetime of memories in those 16 pitches!
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2014 - 09:36am PT
Scott inspires without pontificating. He's proud but humble. Courageous but vulnerable and above all honest.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Oct 30, 2014 - 10:15am PT
Legit.
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Oct 30, 2014 - 10:24am PT
Scott is solid!

Real all around. Laughed at the suffering part and the "I gotta just chill for a few minutes and get it together" part.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
Oct 30, 2014 - 11:21am PT
Well said Scott. My first trip up El Cap was on the Nose with a very solid partner and bailing could never have been contemplated. Then did Zodiac with another great partner and felt like a cruise.

My next two routes were Triple Direct and the Shield, both with people who had never done el Cap and were scared out of their mind. Bailed on both routes. On the shield my partner cried when he saw the headwall, on triple direct, my partner dropped all MY cams, which were stupidly on the same sling.

I'm not sure I would have the mentality to solo a wall. It seems like a big step up. But obviously better than trying to haul a gumby!
perswig

climber
Oct 30, 2014 - 01:58pm PT
Sean Connery meets Frank Zappa meets badass.
Liked it.

Dale
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 30, 2014 - 02:13pm PT
Nice Plaid, well crafted STOKE!
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
Oct 30, 2014 - 03:31pm PT
Well said Scott.
lars
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Oct 30, 2014 - 06:32pm PT
Thx all! All I have to do is start talking about that climb and I'm right back there.
2 weeks of the best time ever.
Soloing is a lot of work but so rewarding in simple ways. I'm not talking about the summit.
It's the time spent in that place, on the wall, that is etched on my soul.
Don't get me wrong I was glad to finish, but wish it could have gone on forever.

Plaid
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Oct 30, 2014 - 07:32pm PT
That's a great video! I could listen to him talk about that climb for decades! Great job plaid, radical ascent!

PS, I think I am going to start bringing a summit coke now on!
couchmaster

climber
Oct 30, 2014 - 08:57pm PT
LIKE

Jeff's a great filmmaker, but it would be nice to see some actual Plaidman Zodiac time in between the soliloquies to flesh it out.

wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Oct 30, 2014 - 09:32pm PT
Nice work Plaid and Jeff
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2014 - 09:52pm PT
I agree couch. If Scott has any footage I will re-cut it.
I'll ask him.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Oct 31, 2014 - 07:50am PT
Zodiac on El Capitan Pitch 14 Standing on Peanut Ledge looking up, Gotta clean the pitch after leading it.The life of a soloist.

Plaid
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Nov 1, 2014 - 09:23pm PT
Here's a pic of the tip of "The Nipple".
You know that when I went by I kissed The Nipple.
And because I was solo when I climbed the pitch to clean it......
I kissed it again.

Plaid
Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
Nov 2, 2014 - 06:00pm PT
Hey Plaid,

So glad I got to see you in the valley this fall. Can't wait till I see you again and hear about further adventures. You da man!

Cheers,
Doug
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Nov 2, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
If you zoom in, you're looking up his kilt!

Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Nov 3, 2014 - 02:27am PT
Thx Doug you are part of the reason I successfully finished the climb. Without knowing how to use the 2:1 hauling system I would never have made it.
Thx you rock.

Plaid
Tobia

Social climber
Denial
Nov 3, 2014 - 03:39am PT
plaidman, i recall reading, what seems like a few months ago; but realistically a year or more, your writing about shedding some pounds, getting off the couch and getting back into shape.

Obviously you achieved that goal; which is by no means a small task. You then raised the bar innumerable notches and obviously smoked that hurdle.

i admire the tenacious spirit you muster and maintain in order to accomplish whatever you set your mind to do. Inspirational is not an adequate word to describe your successes.
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
Nov 3, 2014 - 08:29am PT
Thanks for posting that. Really cool insight into the mindset needed to climb El Cap or other big walls.
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
Nov 3, 2014 - 10:06am PT
Plaidman rocks.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Nov 3, 2014 - 02:31pm PT
Thx Skully. Sorry I missed you this last trip.

Plaid
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 3, 2014 - 04:00pm PT
Hmmmm. Interesting idea, going to the summit, looking down, and visualizing yourself later being there. Good idea!

Nice job, Plaidman. But it was too easy with those Totem cams. Clearly you need to go lead one of those A4+ pitches of which you so casually speak..... ;)

Nice send! My credit card bill came in. They make me pay in Canadian dollars. Ouch.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Nov 3, 2014 - 07:11pm PT
Great vid. I would definitely go to your slide show.
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
Nov 3, 2014 - 07:18pm PT
^^
Yeah butt, the essence of what he was saying I believe is that technical expertise is one thing and mental hurdles are another...Plaidmon can answer for himself though.

whatever...great job Plaid


edit, hmm that post I referred to is gone...
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Nov 3, 2014 - 10:26pm PT
Pete there was very little causalness about that A4+ climbing I mentioned.
I did say that I would probably be scared out of my mind and that it would likely take me 10 hours to lead anything like that.
I hope to get there someday. Working toward it. I do real good when the heat is on. Probably won't be solo though.
Thx for the atta boy Pete. It means a lot to me.

Sorry you got tagged on that Totem Cam purchase.
I'll still hump one of your haul bags as agreed when we sealed the deal.
That will be in American sweat and tears. Be easy on me man. I'm getting old. I turn 52 years old in a few hours from now.

Plaid
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Nov 3, 2014 - 10:45pm PT
Plaid, you climb A4. And then you woke up! Hohoho

And if folks don't believe it, watch this! http://vimeo.com/18733263
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Nov 3, 2014 - 10:56pm PT
Put that last post back with the link to Psychic Wound.
Loved that climb. That was a rad video you put together.

Plaid
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Nov 3, 2014 - 11:15pm PT
Happy birthday dude.

Keep on Rockin' in the Free World yo!





Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 3, 2014 - 11:49pm PT
I waited through the sucky download time on Vimeo,(is it just me?) to watch the video. Scott "Plaid" Peterson is now on my list of Supertopians that I am looking forward to sharing a drink and/or a meal with. Beware.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 4, 2014 - 07:32am PT
Solid with the sartorial advice and worth listening to for the rest, even coming from a chossmaster.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Nov 4, 2014 - 03:59pm PT
Yeah "Dirt".
I talked to so many climbers that indicated that, yes you need skills
But it's the mental that will shut you down on Big Walls.
That's why I stacked the deck like I did.
I'm not that good just tricky and determined!

Plaid
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Nov 6, 2014 - 06:00am PT

Stuck in the portaledge during the snow storm at top of pitch 7.
It dump 8 inches. I was able to melt enough snow to make two liters of water.

Plaid
Messages 1 - 39 of total 39 in this topic
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