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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 29, 2014 - 11:25am PT
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Location: Round Table Pizza, 2065 Occidental Road, Santa Rosa
Time & Date: Tuesday, November 4, 2014 @ 7:30 PM (Social hours and free beer for members at 6:30)
Directions: From Highway 101 at Santa Rosa go west on Highway 12 to Stony Point Road Exit. Go straight from the middle lane at the light onto Occidental Road. The Round Table Pizza is on the right just down the road.
Hawaiian-born, Berkeley-raised Peter Haan began climbing in summer of 1963, not quite 15 years of age. The golden age of Yosemite was in mid-swing and yet Haan was still a teenager. Consistently involved as the years have gone by and several distinct eras come and gone, his first solo ascent of the Salathe Wall, first free ascent of the Left Side of the Hourglass, the first un-roped ascent of Crack of Despair and other free climbs in the early Seventies, still stand tall in our history.
Now forty years after these climbs, Haan still remains involved on a variety of levels, writing for Alpinist Magazine, Rock & Ice, The American Alpine Journal, and is deeply committed to an unusual type of sometimes narrative Photoshop imagery related to his understanding of climbing today. As these years went by he graduated from UC Santa Cruz in philosophy and also has maintained a career in architectural woodwork fabrication and general construction, based in Santa Cruz while serving on committees and boards of several associations. His other sports have been skiing, surfing, dressage and cross-country jumping.
Peter will present his art and some of the climbing highlights of the last half-century of climbing. Haan theorizes that much of the compulsion to climb at the extreme level, risking everything including one’s life is a quest for myth, meaning and yearning for a hero’s journey in the terms of Joseph Campbell.
http://www.rockicemountain.org
https://www.facebook.com/RockIceMountainClub
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 29, 2014 - 11:31am PT
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Man! I wish I could make this one!
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Oct 29, 2014 - 11:33am PT
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voting about 150 too far away...
Bump
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Oct 29, 2014 - 11:49am PT
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This sounds great! Wish I could be there.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Oct 29, 2014 - 09:16pm PT
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Dudes a Legend, don't miss the chance to see this man tell his story. . .df
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Oct 29, 2014 - 10:11pm PT
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Yeah, he isn't carrying much of a rack!
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Oct 29, 2014 - 10:14pm PT
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Hey Peter, have a fun night at your talk. I know you will be awesome. Jude
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Oct 29, 2014 - 10:17pm PT
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Are these events video recorded?
I'm a big fan but I live in Arizona.
Not even the lure of Round Table Pizza sweetens the pot enough for that drive! Sorry Pedro!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 30, 2014 - 05:22am PT
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Second on the video tape suggestion!!
But don't feel self concious, Peter :)
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2014 - 11:08am PT
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I'll look into the possibility of video.
I need to pinch myself sometimes when we get this caliber of presenter to our little climbing club at a Round Table Pizza. :)
Good eye Warbler.
Cya on Tuesday.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Oct 30, 2014 - 06:55pm PT
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Well, I wish you all could come too! First of all, though, let's try and handle the scurrilous attack by Tami.
My crazy Hawaiian birth certificate is a book actually with several pages and faux rattan covers. The front cover, the first page with silly poem by Shelly. I was born there 3 years after the war. My parents were at the U of H, having moved from U of Utah Salt Lake. Hawaii was a US Territory back then.
Can't show the actual certificate for fear of evil.
The Meatgrinder:
The rack: after this spot, I and most others on lead, go into an off width that also has off-fists, at least for me. You run it out for awhile and place a bong in the midst of the trouble. Thus you see "a" bong on the hardware sling. This was the fourth ascent of the Meatgrinder, 1970, Bridwell belaying me. Red Zinger would be behind me, a climb to be. Loved the Grinder. It was actually an edgy lead back then and daunting from the ground. When Kor lead it before me, he just lie backed it for many feet and ignored the off width challenge. Quite bold, and Layton of course always impressed us all.
That is a very rare photo of I-12 at Indian Rock, climbed unroped. I did it maybe six times. Horrid fall from there I am sure.
The current photo of me was taken at Todd Gordon's house during the Bridwell/Tarbuster/Nidever fun-fundraiser and dance-a-thin including bagpipes. Terrific event. Someone stole the auctioning steer skull though, leaving us with a bad feeling. It would have brought $400, too.
The first photo was taken by friend Darwin Alonso a day or so before the First Free Ascent of The Left Side of The Hourglass. I am squatting there in the remnants of the log shack that Jean Baptiste Lembert lived in when he began to raise goats up there in the Meadows about 1890. As a memoriam to him some time after his savage murder down-Valley (1896) , a bunch of friends moved this long-abandoned roofless cabin over to the picturesque soda springs in front of the Sierra Club stone building. It is there today of course.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Oct 30, 2014 - 07:22pm PT
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Awesome Peter-thanks for the perspective of all the eras.
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Peter, thanks for coming up. I've been hoping for this for some time. Really looking forward to seeing you again.
That skull got stolen? I didn't know that. Bummer. Great gathering and party in spite of that.
See you in a few days.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Man, wish I could make it!
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Oh crap. If I wasn't living 9 hours away from this I would go for sure.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Peter, you know Skip and I would be there if we possibly could.
Really sad we can't make it. :-(
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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5 days heads up just ain't enough. How'd that happen?
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2014 - 10:40am PT
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bump for tomorrow.
Toker - I try to get these announcements out earlier, but sometimes that backfires and the post goes back a few pages into oblivion to never resurface.
Definitely not the case with this one. :)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Great fun to catch up with everyone in the North Bay
and always a pleasure to hear Peter.
Thanks all!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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We need a full review, with video!!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Yes, tell us how it went, Haando. I would have loved to see this show. You are a gem, Peter.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2014 - 09:57am PT
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in house cameos by Ed Hartouni, The Wolf and Lucky Pink.
on screen alternate universe appearances by Robbins, Harding, Werner, Tarbuster, Leo H and more.
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Thanks for joining our RIM club meeting Peter! I really enjoyed the show!
Ed Hartouni did the introduction, then Peter launched into his slide show - great photos and stories from the Valley's golden era. Peter has an extensive collection of photos of his many climbing buddies, and you could tell that his connection to each partner and climb was real and heartfelt. The presentation had a good pace, and Peter's memory is sharp. I especially liked how he ended the show with his photo shop art work - he was cracking himself up explaining the subtle artistic message in each piece!
I just added Hourglass Left, Meat Grinder, and Crack of Dispair to my Valley tick list. Let the suffering and hang dogging begin...
Thanks Guys!
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The Wolf
Trad climber
Martinez, CA
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Another presentation by Peter that is further evidence that he MUST write a book. It's not only the history but the perspective that makes Peter's stories so compelling.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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must agree with that.. how about that book, Peter? Good to see you in Santa Rosa and what a really cool presentation. I liked that those younger climbers were hanging on your every word and had such great questions. Thanks for coming up to Sonoma County. AND ED! good to see you too! what a long haul from Livermore. good intro by the way!
-Maureen
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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It was a packed house. Peter drove all the way from Santa Cruz, bless his heart. And Ed from Livermore. Thanks for coming you guys. No footage, but I think we are going to get the capability for future shows. I think Ed agreed to come up one of these days too.
Jeff good to see you; it was a fun night and everyone really enjoyed the stories, old pics and art. Peter thanks again for going the distance.
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Sounds like quite an evening, wish I could have made it. Thanks for the reports!
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