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Gene
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 21, 2014 - 12:02pm PT
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Although there have been several Valley Uprising threads, I post this due to the following sad news.
The event carries particular poignancy for those who have followed the legendary Royal Robbins: Damon Robbins said in an email interview that a reception planned after the screening likely will mark the final such public appearance by his ailing 79-year-old father, who for years has been a prominent businessman and supporter in the Modesto community.
“He has PSP (progressive supranuclear palsy). It’s a rare palsy that has some of the tendencies of Parkinson’s,” Damon Robbins said of his father. “He is doing quite well for having what he has. I don’t expect that he will be out at another public event after this, as it is not easy for him and he is best and most comfortable at home.”
The article says that Glen Denny and possibly Tom Frost will attend.
Best wishes to RR!
http://www.modbee.com/2014/10/19/3600013/film-about-legendary-yosemite.html
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 21, 2014 - 12:09pm PT
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Will be sending power vibes to Royal, one of our greatest tribal leaders.
Thanks Royal.
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Gene
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2014 - 03:15pm PT
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Bump for news about RR.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 21, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
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I'm going.
LostInShanghai's going.
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Oct 21, 2014 - 04:07pm PT
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I am sorry to hear this. I haven't kept in touch with Royal for many years and was not aware of his problems. I have memories of belaying him in the Needles of SD almost 50 years ago, admiring his bold and confident climbing style. He was (and is), as Pat Ament wrote, the Spirit of His Age.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 21, 2014 - 04:31pm PT
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Great post jgill.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Oct 21, 2014 - 04:44pm PT
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I did not know Royal well but if I was anywhere near California I would go. Truly the spirit of an age.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Oct 21, 2014 - 04:47pm PT
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Thanks for the update on this Gene. This is very sad but Royal being Royal will deal with it with a depth and strength of character matched by few. Having Liz as a life long soulmate is a godsend.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 21, 2014 - 07:24pm PT
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Thanks for posting. I had noticed he was ailing the last time he was in the Valley presenting with Tom Frost.
It must be tough having one's body go downhill after doing so many amazing things over the years.
But it will happen to most of us if we manage to live that long.
He did a lot of great climbing in the glory days.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Oct 21, 2014 - 08:43pm PT
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It is an important moment, with Damon taking the reins and letting us all know. I guess I wasn't sure it would take place and yet it had to, and now it has. Roy is not well now. I think there are some fluctuating emotions here too for many of us and the family. Royalis has had an enormous life and today it can't be so graceful as it had been. I for one will have many memories as I approach my end and moments hanging with the man will be among many of them. For me he is still in his early forties and facing the work of the second half of his life. Waking on a bean bag in their living room I would find he had made a pot of coffee for the morning, he had worked all night at the dining table writing away, finding it.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 21, 2014 - 09:42pm PT
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Modesto Mutant
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Oct 21, 2014 - 10:01pm PT
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Unfortunately the forum topic thread you've requested can not be found.
The original topic post may have been deleted by the thread's original author or by this website.
The thread is no longer available for reply.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Oct 21, 2014 - 10:07pm PT
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Dern prior fetal commitments. Even though we already saw it in Santa Cruz my wife and I would love to go again to see Royal, if we were free.
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dw88
Trad climber
33617
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Oct 21, 2014 - 11:18pm PT
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Friends and family of Royal , my father was a victim of PSP and the progression and diagnosis of the diseases is one of the most difficult I have bared witness to. The process was a awakening for me in my early teens and if any of you have questions or wanted support from a fellow climber who has experienced a caring for afar her with the disease please reach out. With such a rare disorder sometimes it's hard to find those to relate to. Peace be with you in these times.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Oct 22, 2014 - 02:29am PT
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I suppose that Robbins will take on this challenge with the determination and bravery that he has taken on many others in his life. Best wishes.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 22, 2014 - 05:12am PT
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He's not my pa and he's not my friend
But I did meet him a few times long ago when
I was still an active climber.
It's not sad that I am, nor really angry,
Like a person who's close has a right to be.
But I'm not immune to sympathy for them.
It's more as if my neighbor down the block,
A marvelous and mysterious man
Who used to stop on our sidewalk
When he'd take his constitutional,
Then do a little dance for us kids
Who watched from the porch in amazement
As he then sedately went on his way
But with a big smile and a hearty wave--
It's as if this legendary gent
Had been carried away one day
By an ambulance not to be seen again.
He became legendary long ago in our minds--
Came to be part of our lives by living there;
And we wondered that our dancing shoes,
Of which we were so proud,
And which we wore when performing ourselves,
Had his name on them:
"Monsieur."
It's like that to me.
And when he has gone,
He'll still be living in our heads
And in our hearts.
And the shoes may then come out of their rucksacks
To do a little dance for the kids' kids.
We called them God boots.
Peter, that was a heart-warming story.
Thanks.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Oct 22, 2014 - 05:52am PT
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Chapeau Royal Robbins.
An inspirational man.
From where I look Royal Robbins has lived his life very, very well.
If I achieve a small portion of what he has in his time I'll be well pleased.
I remember in the top dihedrals of the Muir, being blown away by his solo of the route BITD. Such spirit and ability.
Best to him, and you all.
Steve
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 22, 2014 - 10:38am PT
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So Gene, the show is tonight?
Damn, I wish my bride wasn't out of town.
It should be a very touching evening, if it's actually Royal's last "public" appearance of this type. Damn.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Oct 22, 2014 - 11:42am PT
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I cant believe its been forty years since Mr. Robbins and I exchanged " mountain letters" and began a collabaration that produced the first formal Tahoe area guidebook which is among the most accurate guides produced in this country.
I have an idea he has mentored, befriended and helped many a soul, both in the climbing community and beyond in his remarkable life.
He still looms ,head and shoulders above the rest, as the giant of modern american climbing.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 22, 2014 - 11:46am PT
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The man.
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Yeti
Trad climber
Ketchum, Idaho
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Oct 22, 2014 - 01:54pm PT
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As I wrote more than 40 years ago about a climb we did on Half Dome:
"Robbins is a supreme rock climber, artist and craftsman. Still competing, but very generous and considerate. A man who knows what he is about, able to concentrate on the immediate detail and the keeping going what must go to the extent that his being appears as a mystic or a mad scientist, depending."
Royal is a mystic, a master and a marvel whose contribution to climbing, the larger world and the people he has touched is profound, lasting and very much appreciated. Thanks, Royal.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Oct 22, 2014 - 02:25pm PT
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Touching portrayal Dick, thank you.
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cali kat
climber
CA
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Oct 22, 2014 - 02:41pm PT
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Thank you for sharing! Just saw this post last night. Gonna come up from SoCal to meet this legendary man.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 22, 2014 - 04:55pm PT
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All Hail The King.
Basic Rockcraft is what got me started. I know I am not alone.
My you always be a teanager, with a pair of all-stars, laybacking at Stoney.
Thank you Royal
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Oct 22, 2014 - 06:31pm PT
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A true Legend! Always was a pleasure to meet with Royal.
Peace
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Oct 22, 2014 - 08:55pm PT
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I was fortunate to meet him several times. Sorry to hear he's loosing control of the old body.
This event will be one not to miss.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Oct 23, 2014 - 09:30am PT
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Thanks for the info, Gene.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 23, 2014 - 10:55am PT
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I started a thread about this event before leaving for the Oakdale Festival at Damon's request and here is the event flier for tonight's gathering.
I stopped in to visit Royal and Liz with Audrey Salkeld and return some of his books and proceeds from the Oakdale Festival. All three of his books are going to be available at the outstanding price of $10 each so bring some cash if you don't already have these wonderful and illuminating works. Please do not ask him to sign anything and just be in the moment with him to appreciate that he is still very engaged with the climbing community even in the midst of his difficult situation.
While Royal is dealing with great physical hardship, his mind and essence are intact and I gave him an update on my plans and activities with NACHA which he and Liz have always genuinely and wholeheartedly supported.
While those of us that know and love Royal, Liz and their family would do just about anything to better the situation if we could, I would like folks to keep in mind that Royal is doing what he always has which is leading from the front and by example very much as Jeff Lowe is also doing. If you find pity creeping into your thoughts then take time to consider the full and exemplary life that he and Liz have savored and the brave and gentle strength that elevates his spirit to behave as he now does despite the physical challenges. There is inspiration aplenty in the present moment should you choose to tap into it.
Royal is the Spirit of the Age as Pat so eloquently put it in his biography and we are so very fortunate to have had him lead and inspire us as a climbing and outdoor community. Without his brilliant example, thoughtful writing and conduct, I would never have been inspired to reach for the heights in my own climbing. It is a debt that can only be paid with respect and deep appreciation for all that he has given back to us through his leadership.
I have yet to see Valley Uprising but need to make folks aware that Royal's activities did not end abruptly in the early 1970s as has apparently been asserted. Royal simply moved into another discipline as many great climbers such as Walter Bonatti have done. Royal found the adventure he needed exploring and doing first descents in a kayak. Among other climbs during this time period, he made a go at the last great challenge on El Capitan by starting up what became the Tangerine Trip alone. He was fortunate even then in failing to finish that route which required what for Royal would have been too many holes to complete in a satisfactory style. Royal has never lost the relevance that he so bravely and skillfully crafted for himself and for American climbing.
Enjoy yourselves folks and come out and support this event!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 23, 2014 - 01:31pm PT
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Looks as if the eclipse is gathering momentum...
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Oct 23, 2014 - 04:17pm PT
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good post Steve.
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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Oct 23, 2014 - 05:11pm PT
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Right on, Steve.
Wish I could be there, even more to honor Royal than to see the film.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 24, 2014 - 10:01am PT
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Well? How did it go last night?
Was Royal pleased? Did he have fun?
How about you?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 25, 2014 - 01:05pm PT
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I got a report form Glen Denny that the house was packed so thanks for coming out to support this event. I am sure that Damon was stoked and that Royal was indeed pleased at such a strong local turnout!
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Oct 25, 2014 - 01:19pm PT
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It was really neat to meet his daughter here in Moab who hosted the Moab showing. I just can't imagine what it must be like to see your parents so beautifully portrayed in their youth.
She looks just like her Mom.
Susan
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kingpin
climber
methdeathsto ca
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Oct 27, 2014 - 07:52am PT
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The show at the state was awesome! Not a single seat unfilled. Royal seemed pleased to be there and the crowd was undoubtedly happy to see him. Glen Denney signed stacks of posters and Alex Honnold graciously fielded hundreds of questions and photo/signature requests from astonished laypeople and starstruck climbers alike. Camp 4 wine cafe stayed open late and seemed to have quite a turn out after the show. Royal has obviously had an enormous effect on the communities he has touched, it was nice to see our little community show its appreciation. Thanks Damon for making it happen.
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Ryan Tetz
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Oct 27, 2014 - 10:29am PT
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The post weighs in heavy on the heart. A gracious man the few time's I've been lucky to meet him. I'll always remember being on After 6 as a young climber in the 90's gripped and trying to figure out how we were going to build trad anchors when an old guy came soloing up past us. The first time I'd ever seen someone free soloing. It was of course Royal Robbins! He encouraged us and wished us a good day. I didn't know who he was yet, but my partner whispered over as he passed by that he was one of the great Yosemite climbers. As a 16 year old kid I thought he was the most badass old man I'd ever seen and wow this rock climbing sport is really exciting! I never forgot that impression and was always happy to have that memory as I became more of a climber over the years and understood better. I've always really enjoyed climbing in Yosemite, because the old climbs carry a story of the ones that have come before.
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Oct 27, 2014 - 03:24pm PT
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Pretty high up for a no-hands problem! Royal was the complete package . . . Spirit of the Age.
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bobinc
Trad climber
Portland, Or
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Oct 27, 2014 - 03:47pm PT
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I was very lucky about 5 years ago to see RR in (of all places), Hood River, OR (my hometown). Much of his appearance there was due to his daughter calling it home at the time, but whatever brought him there, it was a thrill to see him in a small setting sans crowds. I got to talk to him for some time after his presentation and told him how much of an inspiration he was to us when we were just figuring stuff out. I brought an historic copy of Advanced Rockcraft for him to sign, too. It is hard to hear of his physical hardship now, but Steve G is right on in expressing how RR still inspires...
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