Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 29 of total 29 in this topic |
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 20, 2014 - 06:01am PT
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The girls and boys are back in town.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 20, 2014 - 08:37am PT
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Bump! Buncha bad asses! 22 Hours is nuts :O
One thing I love about climbing is that sex and age have a lot less to do with accomplishments - more tenacity, drive and dedication than anything. Pretty awesome.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 20, 2014 - 08:41am PT
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congrats to Quinn and Libby, Sibylle mentioned that they were going for it when I met up with her in Oakdale but we hadn't had any news
and I ran into Tom and Pete in the Caf during FaceLift and was tuned into their plans...good show!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 20, 2014 - 10:44am PT
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hey there say, RP3... say, thanks for the share... sure do love to hear all the valley action... though i do not know all the folks 'in that action' ... i sure love to hear it!
congratulations to Quinn and Libby from me, as well, and thanks for the link to tom's phoots, :)
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Oct 20, 2014 - 10:51am PT
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Most excellent.
John
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Oct 20, 2014 - 01:47pm PT
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Congratulations to all who are living their dreams, especially the women who, sometimes, have to overcome male prejudice.
The recent Oakdale gathering was inspiring on all levels, illustrating, convincingly, that women are able to climb as well or better than dudes.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Oct 20, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
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Pretty amazing on both accounts. Thanks for the share RP3.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 20, 2014 - 02:09pm PT
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BooDawg's got it right.
I met Libby two years ago in the SAR site and asked her how she trained for her record Nose climb with Chantel.
"What training?" was her reply, loosely.
This was a good reason for both ladies to have missed out on the Woman's Reach presentations at the Oakdale CF. They were out making history themselves!
Congratulations, LOUD CONGRATULATIONS, Libby and Quinn!
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DickSilly
climber
cutlass supreme
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Oct 28, 2014 - 04:13pm PT
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Kev if you keep spouting the reverse sexism thing your gonna get the Ban Hammer, even if you are right.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Oct 28, 2014 - 05:55pm PT
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Smokin' Crag Bettys!
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Oct 28, 2014 - 06:03pm PT
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I love seeing everybody/anybody fulfilling their goals and dreams. I doubt the women mentioned think of their accomplishments in terms of being "women". They are climbers, climbing.
That's not to say that there isn't a slightly different vibe when women climb together.
Congrats to all involved.
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Oct 28, 2014 - 06:03pm PT
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Stoke Volume Eleven.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 28, 2014 - 06:53pm PT
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thanks for the dispatches from the front RP3,
and great to hear that Mayan and Libby are crushing!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 29, 2014 - 08:48am PT
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Isn't it kinda sexist to make a big deal out of females doing something for the first time that men first did years ago?
perhaps, but there the aspiration has been voiced to match or better the current fastest time, and I don't see any reason why that can't happen no matter the gender of the team.
it will be exciting to watch this unfold as the level of climbing increases for everyone.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 29, 2014 - 08:53am PT
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Seems like those girls really like orange juice. Cool stuff!
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Barbarian
climber
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Oct 29, 2014 - 09:05am PT
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Super accomplishments for these great climbers!
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velvet!
Trad climber
La Cochitaville
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Oct 29, 2014 - 09:27am PT
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Thanks for the kind words from Supertopo-land. Always a treat.
As for the question about whether or not its sexist to give special kudos to all women teams doing things that men have done ages ago...
The Alpinist will address this in a little e-blurb they are going to release about my day out with Quinn but since I love you guys so....my $0.02
I really want men and women to be equal in all things. Pay, rights, climbing abilities....but look at who is climbing El Cap. How many female climbers are up there on it? Regardless of the skill issue, far fewer woman are going up there, either with a male or female partner.
And as much as I want us all to hug and get along and be a harmonious one, I can recognize that men and women are different. It is easier for me to see myself in the place of a woman climber. I would hypothesize that that is true for a majority of women climbers out there. So if having these female-centric acknowledgements helps motivate more woman climbers to leave the gym and challenge the captain, I'm all for it, no question.
I hope that one day it wont be noticeable when two women do something on El Cap and all records and accomplishments will be gender neutral, but until we need to get more equal numbers of ladies and men on the wall, I'm gonna strongly advocate the female specific records.
:)
lib
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 29, 2014 - 09:29am PT
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I really want men and women to be equal in all things.
LOL
Men will become pregnate and give birth ...... :-)
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Oct 29, 2014 - 09:53am PT
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Thanks for sharing the stoke RP3!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 30, 2014 - 10:23am PT
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Second that!
Mayan came over to speak at the Oakdale Festival with some generous support from the good folks at Five Ten and Adidas.
Her presentation was beyond inspiring and she has done herself and her sponsors proud by logging a fantastic time on El Cap and otherwise getting after it!
Hats off to Quinn and Libby for their doubler in a day!
All of these amazing gals are setting them up and knocking them back in proud style.
My intention in structuring the Oakdale Festival this year was to take an inside look at the convergence in standards over the last 100 years between the men's and women's climbing- the Parallel Realms as I chose to frame it in discussion. This trend toward equivalence has everything to do with mentoring and accessible role models out in the world of climbing.
It does no disservice to anyone to keep track of firsts by women. Speed and stacking routes have always been of interest to me as a clear measure of accomplishment.
The true mark on the Nose is still Lynn's time leading it all and all free which should be seeing some action here next season as the stable of powerful women keeps growing and flourishing. The ripples from this great example twenty years ago are still churning up the waters in Yosemite- in my opinion the single greatest accomplishment in American free climbing.
Inspiration and imagination know no bounds and I for one am thrilled to watch it all unfold so beautifully. Lots of room without a roof on the Captain for everyone that desires to get happy up there!
Proud climbing gals!
And proud climbing on Freerider guys! Time to clear many of those bolts off and restore the line to its original condition, IMO. The future always arrives hungry for more...
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2014 - 06:02am PT
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The word is Jorg Verhoeven just freed the Nose! WOW! I can't wait to hear the details.
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dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
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^
Is it really news when a man repeats something a woman did 20 years ago? :)
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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^ good one dhayan
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couchmaster
climber
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Sure it is, given how many times it's been freed (very few times). And as far as keeping a womens record goes, Libby has a great point: and they still got up it (twice) faster than 99.89 percent of men, and that's damned noteworthy. Just like when Jim Herson takes a couple of middleschoolers up it and they do it in a day. LOL.
2 El Cap routes in a a day! Good job and congrats Mayan and Libby.
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Look we've been over all this before, I'll try to summarize some key points:
Men and women are, on average, different, so it's unrealistic to expect equality of results in anything where those differences are relevant. For example, women on average earn less because they take time off for child bearing / rearing (among other reasons).
In most athletic events, men have advantages due to being generally larger/stronger/faster.
But in climbing, where strength to weight is important (rather than absolute strength), and where smaller hands and feet confer a distinct advantage (depending on the climb) women can surpass men on certain climbs.
For example, it is likely far easier for small women such as Lynn Hill to free the Nose than it is for an average sized man to do the same. Accordingly, any climb having an extremely body-size dependent crux (such as the Nose) should not be used as a standard to evaluate overall climbing competency.
And what is up with the picture of the two young ladies with "King Cobra" cans?? I assume that was some sort of joke and they weren't actually drinking that vile substance.
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dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
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haha, nice troll attempt...
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