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Messages 1 - 20 of total 151 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Oct 8, 2014 - 10:52pm PT
I think the fourth was Peter Arbic and Tim Auger, and fifth was Andy DeKlerk and Julie Brugger.

kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Oct 8, 2014 - 11:13pm PT
Most recent one:

http://nickbullock-climber.co.uk/2014/10/03/it-takes-a-big-day-to-weigh-a-ton-climbing-the-houseanderson-on-mt-alberta-nf/
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Oct 9, 2014 - 07:06am PT
I think Ward and Dan were #4, this would have been 1984 or 1985?
PA and Tim climbed it in the early 90's?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 9, 2014 - 09:08am PT
Luke Cormier #5
Avery

climber
NZ
Oct 9, 2014 - 12:42pm PT
Thanks for the suggestion, Bruce. Who made did make the six first descents of Alberta's North Face?
Peter Arbic

climber
Nov 5, 2014 - 11:25pm PT
4 Ward Robinson and Danny Guthrie, 5 Andy and Julie
, 6 PA and Tim...I believe Scott Backes and Bill Bancroft somewhere in here too?
nah000

climber
canuckistan
Nov 6, 2014 - 01:29pm PT
^^^^

uuuhhh... are you aware that the person who wrote what you are questioning is the person who made the next ascent?

ie. unless someone has a published source or deklerk or brugger on the line, that's about as good a quality of info as we're going to get...



speaking of which: Peter Arbic, if you're interested in throwing down fingers to keyboard, there are definitely eyes and ears around the campfire that'd love to hear an alberta ascent story or two...
Avery

climber
NZ
Nov 6, 2014 - 01:41pm PT
That seven day ascent is true and correct.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 6, 2014 - 01:42pm PT
Julie always enjoyed camping.
mikeyschaefer

climber
Sport-o-land
Nov 6, 2014 - 03:12pm PT
This thread definitely needs a pic.

here is one from this summer while approaching the NE ridge. We talked about coming back for the NF but i was a little fried after the NE ridge. Some serious choss-aneering up there. And climbing the north face in July these days seems like playing a rigged game of roulette with odds favoring the house.
I am also a bit surprised to hear Andy and Julie spent 7 days up there. Would love to hear that story.
stevep

Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
Nov 6, 2014 - 04:09pm PT
I can believe the Andy and Julie story. They were both quite tough. I went over to their house in Seattle one winter day to find them both hanging out indoors in puffy jackets. They saved money by never heating the place and just put more clothes on.
Avery

climber
NZ
Nov 6, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
Hi there "mikeyschaefer"

Many thanks for the pic, good ones are hard to find.
Avery

climber
NZ
Nov 6, 2014 - 11:54pm PT
Can someone please tell me a little bit about Bill Bancroft?
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Nov 7, 2014 - 09:21am PT
...forgot about Scott Backes and Bill Bancroft sometime early 90s?
The bio on Scott Backes at http://www.pembaserves.com/2010/12/petzl-ergo-versus-the-hate-factory/ says their ascent was in 1990.
Avery

climber
NZ
Nov 9, 2014 - 03:21am PT

Peter Arbic, high on the North Face of Mt Alberta. 1992

Avery

climber
NZ
Nov 9, 2014 - 01:21pm PT
During the 4th Ascent of the North Face of Alberta, Dan Guthrie and Ward Robinson made it to the ice alcove above the crux. They then spent the night standing on ice with their crampons sticking out through the bottom of their sleeping bags! (info courtesy of PA)
Avery

climber
NZ
Nov 10, 2014 - 01:31am PT
Hi Avery,

Julie Brugger and I did do the North Face of Alberta in early September 1994.
I think it was the 4th ascent, but I'm not sure. The log in the Alberta hut book just before us was about an epic retreat in bad weather that Sean Daugherty had, so maybe that puts a time line to it.

We walked in over Woolly shoulder to the Alberta hut the first day.
Descended down to the base and climbed the ice field and yellow band and about 2 or 3 pitches of the head-wall on the second day. We found a nice small ledge for a sitting bivvy which was fine.
The third day we climbed the rest of the rock pitches and had a bivvy just under the summit ice field due to a thunderstorm.
The fourth day we summitted and descended the Japanese route to the Alberta hut again
And the 5th day we walked out.

Weather was good except for the brief electrical storm, conditions were good, cold and clear, and we had a lot of fun.


Many Thanks,

Andy de Klerk
Avery

climber
NZ
Nov 10, 2014 - 03:27am PT
Tim (Auger) and I planned it around the full moon. Belayed the whole lower bit cause we only had leather boots and there was tons of stone-fall on the ice field . We were past the yellow bands by 11 and would have moved faster if we had put the rock shoes on sooner . Rock is for the most part excellent. The crux pitch had a shitty belay and not great gear , Tim used a big hook . A few more pitches of good rock brought us a nice ledge. We fixed the last pitch before Tim did this wild king swing in fading light to a trickle of water out on the face. Comfy enough bivy, cook up by the full moon. Tim said I snored . In the morning we watched two climbers approach across the glacier just down and left of the face, unloaded a couple of boxcars worth of rock at them. They turned around. Some guy from Vegas? We had as leisurely a breakfast as you can , got up to the ice and on the summit around noon, stumbled euphorically in to the hut , before sundown. We were lucky, I had a very good , very smart , partner. He's pretty lucky too. (1992)

Peter Arbic
Peter Arbic

climber
Nov 10, 2014 - 08:55am PT
Well BJ you were correct and my recollections not accurate concerning Andy and Julies timing . Not sure why this is all of interest but now you have it from the horses mouh
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Nov 10, 2014 - 09:35am PT
Cool thread Avery!!
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