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RonV
Trad climber
Placerville
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 2, 2014 - 08:19pm PT
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I have a story of lost history I would like to share. I have witnessed many times in my almost 40yrs of this sport how some people have received a great deal of attention and others not. Certainly I do not climb for attention, but sometimes our history gets it wrong. As a young climber from Placerville my friends and I spent many days climbing at Sugarloaf. In the 70’s we called the rock formation above the Silver Fork School, Dog Rock. Now the Guide books call it Sugar Bun. If you look at a current Guide, note some of the names, “Dirty Dog”, “Dog Fight”, “Mad Dog”. The best route at the time on this feature was “Dog Rock Finger Lock”. Now just called “Finger Lock”. One day a great friend of mine, Don Garret, spotted a line on the south east side of Dog Rock and top roped it and did some cleaning. He noticed during this that some visiting climbers from Washington State had watched his activity, but thought little of this until he returned a week later with his bolt kit to find that his route had been bolted. He had already named the climb, “Dog Lips Finger Tips”. This route was poorly bolted and because of the merit of the route Gene Drake returned a few years later and rebolted the route which is now known as “Make That Move Right Now Baby”. Now certainly none of this really matters, but guide books are written, sometimes by people who have little history in an area and names change. I still head up to Dog Rock to do two of my favorite routes “Dog Rock Finger Lock” and “ Dog Lips Finger Tips” and remember the great times I had climbing with my good friend Don Garret.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Ha! It's still Dog Rock and Dog Rock Finger Lock to me Ronald! There are some routes such as Pony Express, Taurus and Scheister whose FA 's are unknown. If these places we enjoy could only talk the tales we'd hear!
Another avoidable piece of lost history at the Loaf was the name change on the old A3 route Stanborough Memorial when it was freed. I didn't know Charlie Stanborough who I understand was killed in Yosemite rope soloing but his friends were motivated enough to name a route as a remembrance. There's likely many great stories of Charlie and his buddies climbing there in the sun of yesterdays some of which I've heard, most we'll never know.
These stones just sit there and change so little in the time we went from high school punks to old men. The climbers for me are so much more interesting then the routes so I'd say these things do matter, not that anyone else cares.
Such true words......"the first ones now will later be last", I swear these places are haunted.
Berg Hiel,
Charlie D.
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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I remember how Don was pretty pissed off that those guys swiped Dog Lips Finger Tips from under his nose. Pretty rude. A lot of great efforts took place which were not recorded because some of us were never in with the in crowd, just out there doing it and not worried at the time with advertising ourselves. I figure we know what we did and we did it well and we had a great time at it, and we're still good friends. That's what it's about in the long run.
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crankster
Trad climber
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When I lived in CA it was Dog Rock, there were trees before the fire and Grand Illusion was The Fracture. Some of the best granite on the planet is in that canyon.
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Aki J
Trad climber
Placerville, CA
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Dog Rock Fingerlock... I remember some old guy telling me that's what it was. ;)
Didn't know about the name "Dog Lips Finger Tips" though, that's a good one!
Maybe the "youth" will hear about this someday...
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RonV
Trad climber
Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2014 - 07:57am PT
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Funny Aki. I am NOT an old dude...yet.
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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I have always thought Don Garrett and Ron Vardanega to be a couple of the most under-recognized climbers around. Anyone who has climbed with them is forever in awe of their abilities. They just did it and didn't bother with talking themselves up. I have the greatest of respect for them and always will. Very proud to call them good friends of mine.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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thanks for the write up RonV!
Wish i coulda climbed with ya when i lived there.
Did you ever do anything down canyon? Eagle rock? or those smaller crags across the hyway? Have any names for those?
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Ghoulwe
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
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Yep, I think Ron V. and Don G. were highly under-recognized too. They used to come into Sierra Outfitters where I worked and we'd talk about climbing. They were a few years younger than me and super-enthusiastic! One day they were talking about a route they did at Mosquito Bridge (Twist and Shout?) and I humored them by telling them I'd go do their route soon. When I finally got there, I was surprised that it was quite burly and made me bleed a bit! After that I took them pretty seriously! Branscom, I think you were one of that crew too, along with Dan Bolster?
Man, I love Spokane, but I do miss Hiway 50 and Donner Summit!
Eric Barrett
Ghoulwe Mtnrg Club
Spokane WA
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Ghoulwe
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
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Charlie Stanborogh was a good friend of Charlie Jones and Jim Orey and was active in the Sacramento and Yosemite scene in the early '70's. He died in a roped-Solo accident on Higher Cathedral Spire in probably 1974'ish. I never met him but climbed with Charlie Jones and Jim quite a bit - both super-competent climbers and all-around good guys!
Eric Barrett
Ghoulwe Mountaineering Club
Spokane WA
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Wasn't it Mark Stump or someone that did the FA of Make That Move Right Now. I talked to the guy at the Leap the day after he did it and Steve Miller and I did the second ascent the next day. Yes there was at least one bolt in an awkward/wrong place, but thats what happens when routes are done illegitimately by practice toprope and rappell bolting. Other than its genesis it was a good little face with some pretty thin moves. Dont know the genesis of the rocks name, but Todd and I were calling it sugerbun as early as 1971. Sorry if we got it wrong. Yes, lots of missing or mangled history in that canyon.
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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+1 for recovering lost history
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Killer stuff.
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RonV
Trad climber
Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2014 - 02:59pm PT
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All I know is I did not start climbing until 1975 and Dog Rock is what I was told. In fact I think it was Paul Crawford who used that name. As you know, Ron, this was a time of no cams and no internet, so what climbers from one place called a rock may have differed from another. My first thought was maybe this is what the Tahoe group was calling this rock, but I thought Paul climbed with Rick BITD.
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Have not been to this fabulous forum for months and I was thinking of running into Ron and Charlie last night and figured I'd see if any old posting on Sugarbun/Dog Rock history.
I guess the conversation last night got the memories flowing...
The history is great and fills out the picture of these places we have spent many, many hours enjoying.
Dog Rock makes sense if for no other reason than the route names that are dog based (though the route I put up there is named after my daughter Annabel: A gorgeous little creature and certainly no dog!)
The route formerly known as MTMNB is hereby restored to it legal name of Dog lips Fingertips. Any objection....Good!
what is the A3 route now called to which you refer?
PS: damn that double IPA had to be 9% My grocery shopping mission was quickly scrapped:)
Cheers
a
PPS. Ron, be nice!
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Ha! Aidan I had 2 1/2 of those IPA's last night and had to come home for a nap late afternoon! Ronald, Aki is trying to tell you it's later than you think bro :^)
The Stanborbough Memorial became Captain Fingers. I watched Mark and Max free it in 1979 a feat that I remember well given the ease and grace they showed, such talent. It's great seeing them getting after it again after all these years.
I think RonV is right the SLT and West Slope/Sac groups had their own names and circles. People were siloed from each other and they seemed to like it that way! Collaboration is not something youth embraces with much enthusiasm.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Hell Charlie even the north shore and south shore guys largely ignored each other back then . Except that pesky duo of Max and Mark who frequently transitioned to our shore to embarass us. Those guys were probably the best free climbers in the world for a few years in the seventies. Great days, close freinds, freedom and the belief we were actually doing something of importance in the then fringe pursuit of climbing.
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RonV
Trad climber
Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2014 - 11:36pm PT
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BLUE,
I have never climbed eagle rock. I've hiked around it one day and never returned with a rope. Now the lower canyon has several small hidden rocks and if you go far enough down canyon you come to the swinging Bridge on the way to Mosquito.
During my senior year of high school I was a chem TA. On my fist day in the lab I meet this college grad. An old guy. Bob Branscomb seemed lucid enough even though he was like 21 or 22. When I found out he was a rock climber I change my mind and decided he was nuts. Bob, Don Garrett and I started climbing together and the Mosquito Bridge became a common place for us to climb. Don lived right at the top of ridge on the way to the bridge.Bob wrote a guide book of Mosquito, then years later Will Cotrell wrote a new guide and called this area Mosquito Coast. Sh#t, another name change.
We lived.
End of story.
I'll let Bob explain the rest.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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love is way better than the truth.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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BLUE,
Dave Babich and Dave Stam did some climbing on a crag just east of Eagle Rock they called Sin City. Paul Brown who I think still lives at Pacific House did routes in the canyon on a number of smaller features. Paul took me on a tour of Branscomb/RonV routes up in the Crystal Basin. Amazing there is even some basalt up there. A route I remember was "Moving to Montana", somehow Bob ended up in Wyoming which I'm sure is a story in itself.
Rick,
I remember one time Jon Bowlin and I ran into you as you were putting together a guide that was to include Phantom Spires. You asked Bowlin about the Spires which was very much the focus of the Ghoulwe's and Hootowls and said, tell Barrett to get with me or I'll go there and climb all those routes myself. Too funny such energy and determination, hope you're well it's been a long time since we spoke.
CV,
Love you buddy and that's the truth!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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And you guys came through Charlie. I mainly worked with Eric for the Phantom Spires section and duly noted that section as being contributed by you guys. Saved me endless long slogs uphill and mangling the names and history.
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Ghoulwe
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
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And Rick, thanks for giving us the opportunity to contribute the Phantom Spires info. You put out a kick-ass guidebook and it was my "bible" for many years.
Eric Barrett
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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American River College used to have their Chem 1A lab section in the El Dorado High chem lab in the mid70s. I taught the lab section and I'd go in early a couple of days a week and set up in the back room while high school was in session. The high school lab assistants were these two guys, Don Garrett and Ron Vardanega. I don't know, I admit I sort of blew them off at first when they told me they climbed. I was really kind of a snot at the time I think.
But one day they told me about how they'd tried Farley at Sugarloaf and Don had taken this huge fall out of the lieback part and almost hit the ground and they couldn't get their hex out because it was so welded in the crack from the fall, which was a big deal for them because they hardly had any gear. I'd never even had the balls to try Farley yet and here these two young punks are going for it...I was impressed...I thought, these guys are serious. I was even more impressed when I went up there and saw the hex. It was welded in there for years.
Anyway, we started climbing a lot together. At first I knew a bit more than they did, technically, and I had more gear so they had a fighting chance to live a bit longer, however, they both soon surpassed me in skill and daring so it ended up I benefitted hugely from climbing with them as they really forced me to improve and get bolder so I wouldn't get left in their dust.
I was (still am) really more into the face and friction thing so I sort of headed up the efforts on the Dome at Cosumnes post Jeff and Grant Altenburg's Gutenbergers Wall. Don and Ron really spearheaded the work at Mosquito and we all developed a lot of climbs in the Crystal Basin. Don was the first to do stuff on the Basalt Bluff by Loon Lake and he and Dan Bolster were the first ones to do any routes around Lyons Lake in Desolation. The three of us and Kim Treadaway worked the Slick Rock also.
Don and Ron even survived the Tibetan Fire Dance with Holmesy and Branscomb in the shadow of Mt. Sill. No more need be said as to their endurance and courage.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Thanks Bob for supplimenting RonV gear during his informative years, I've enjoyed his fine company for many years since. Ron's story of he and Don doing Corrugation Corner in tennis shoes with Don hurling through the air overhead from above the big ledge is what legends are made of, it's likely why that fixed pin has a big bend in it toward the ground!!!
Charlie D.
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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Will Cottrell actually asked my permission to take over the Cosumnes/Mosquito guide a couple of years after Kristi and I moved to Wyoming. We were in Placerville to see the parental units and I was bouldering one day in Cosumnes and saw Will, when he asked me if it was okay. I never knew him at all, but I was told later that it was somewhat miraculous that he asked permission, as he is apparently rather aggressive in most things. I figured since we had moved away and I was out of the local loop, it was a better deal for everyone.
My massive ego, the dimensions of which are only describable in terms of parsecs and light years, tells me to mention that the mapping system he used to locate the climbs in the top roping area of Cosumnes were lifted verbatim from my drawings in my guide. I thought it was a rather clever locater system.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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I'm surprised you guys never made it out to Eagle Rock. I guess with so much other stuff to do in the canyon having a much easier approach and all back in the day it really didn't make much sense to bother. I assume that road that goes up to the back side wasn't always there either. That's not to say nobody ever made it out there either. I've found quite a few old fixed pins and bolts on some of the more obvious lines over the years. So people have been trickling back in there over the years at the very least.
Love these old history threads. When you were a few generations behind and have been studying the old guidebooks as long as I have, there are a lot of holes and questions in the story these books and walls have to tell. You get one of these threads going and someone remembers something seemingly insignificant to them and all of a sudden I have a big "ah hah! moment. Love it! Speak up, or forever let your memories be silent.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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That road to Eagle Rock's top was in place at least as early 1976 ( and probably much earlier) Sal. I drove it, looked over the edge and saw what I thought was at least one fixed piece with a sling. There was still lots to do in the canyon on more accessible crags at the time and the routes on Eagle looked to require a fair amount of cleaning to unearth the goods. Never went back. What did you unearth?
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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I did very little cleaning to unearth a few things.
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Ghoulwe
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
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Salmanizer:
Cool Topo pics and info. I climbed a handful of routes on Eagle Rock between '77 and '82 many of which look like either the same or variations of what you have listed - although with a lot more aid and mixed. Yep, some of those pins and bolts are probably mine, but not the two relics in your picture (those pre-date me.) I climbed there on numerous occasions with George Connor, Dave Babich, Kevin Rivett, Jon Bowlin, Dave Stam, Jim Orey, Shelly Presson, Jim Pearson, Kevin Mather and Pat Owens. Mostly hiked from Highway 50 in the early days and later we accessed it from the top with a 4-wheel drive vehicle.
The Obscurist looks like it maybe follows what we just called The North Face but you did that all free while we did some A3 (on which I took a 30 foot ride held by Jim Orey!) I think we called the whole thing 5.9 A3. Funny to see all of the different names on these routes, makes me wonder how many of these obscure routes have had many names over the years...
Cheers and keep on exploring the obscure!
Eric Barrett
Spokane WA
Ghoulwe Mountaineering Club
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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I did a couple of routes on Eagle Rock with Paul Brown in the 80s sometime. They were both 5.9 and were on the taller part of the face. They were called Onion Jack and Mammy Blue on the old Gene Drake guide we had. Pretty nice routes as I remember and certainly we had it all to ourselves.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Nice Hanger Sal!
We do that as well, but use MANY colorful descriptors!
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RonV
Trad climber
Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2014 - 01:16pm PT
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I know that Petch has put up several routes on the cliffs to the east of Eagle Rock. I've never ventured out there, despite being invited several times. Thanks Petch, maybe next time.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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^^^ that would be Sin City Ronald, Petch should compare notes with Dave Stam.
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PSP also PP
Trad climber
Berkeley
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The King fire has exposed a fairly large dome north of highway 50 , way down in the valley on a south faceing slope. I think it is around where the cal fir station along hwy 50. Anyone know about it ?
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Paul, saw it myself the other day. Never have heard of anyone going over there being on the North side of the river....nice meeting you at the Leap Sunday!!!
Cheers,
Charlie D.
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RonV
Trad climber
Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2014 - 02:13pm PT
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I have have tried to get to that rock, not too may years ago by driving out the White Meadows Rd area with Don Garrett. This is where several homes were burned in the King fire. One of the properties on a spur road was quite sketchy. Dogs and keep out signs. For fear of running into the wrong people we turned around. Some of the homes that were reported burned in the fire were said to be off the grid and without permits. Not the kind of property you want to wander onto.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Fascinating, some real history coming alive, from Eric's and crew then Brancomb's early ascents to Sal's more modern routes. Anybody have an idea who was the earliest pioneers there or the placers of those old pins?
Eric, Spokane is a great place to live. Definitely four seasons and 300 days a year of mood improving sunshine with good climbing in fairly close proximity. My middle son, Max, graduated from Gonzaga in 2009. We visited fairly often and even enjoyed the climbing at Minehaha falls ( I don't remember if this the correct spelling)
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PSP also PP
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Nice meeting you too charlie!
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bootysatva
Trad climber
Idyllwild / Joshua Tree Ca.
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Oct 13, 2014 - 08:48am PT
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One of my favorite things about climbing over the last 40 years has been not knowing what we were climbing. We would often invent several funny names for routes and quickly forget them and move on to more climbing.
I have been accused of keeping " my" routes a secret but that is not the case. I prefer to leave things as found and let another discover the adventure for themselves.
Some routes got rap bolted later by various glory hounds and that sucks, but there are more important things to do than to argue about a few inches of rock that will be totally changed in a geological second.
I love the magic of not knowing. A good friend or two, a line that ends up going free within our abilities or maybe a hair beyond.
E.A.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Jun 11, 2015 - 03:10pm PT
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Hi Ron V and Rick S.
RE: The rock below 50. Betsy and the kids did a trek to that rock years ago. We actually called the number on the gate and got permission from the owner to trespass. But all I remember about the climb was yellow jackets and pot growing paraphernalia. Planter boxes, irrigation pipe, etc. Not really a great place to take your young kids.
I did notice on a flight recently (post-fire and post-cleanup) that you can really see it now, along with a blocky thing near it:
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jun 11, 2015 - 03:15pm PT
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Some of that please.
Just glad to see this thread in my 'index' now.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 11, 2015 - 03:44pm PT
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The longest limestone climbs in the US are on Notch Peak off of highway 50 in western Utah.
A pristine, remote setting with stellar climbing. Caveat emptor.....a little bit of spice in the sauce.
The Book of Staurdays is a most do....yo!
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RonV
Trad climber
Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2015 - 04:35pm PT
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Nice photos Ney. A little up stream of that rock at the old Blair Bridge is a short cliff that Don Garret and I top roped BITD. Remember short and hard cracks similar but not as good as Mosquito.
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