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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 24, 2014 - 05:21pm PT
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Every year as a test I throw myself, Hobbit-like
At the Halflings ultimate foe ...The Balrog
"A short small inside corner facing right 100ft past 'Commando Rave(another story there)At the left edge of a large boulder pile,
'Up corner and crack to a small triangular overhang, step left and up crack to ceiling. Move up to ledge 80 ft"
//brghaha ha ha ha !.,.,. I would think that a good story must go with the first ascent!!??
for years and still to this day I start and end every season taking on the Balrog
I used to 3rd class the Dirty Gerdie and Junior but they are now polished to glass!
A wink and a nod to the history (that is not)it is surely I; the Trapped Rat rescued by a young Bill Ravitch at Chuck Calefs behest
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ruppell
climber
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Sep 24, 2014 - 05:33pm PT
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Whenever I get back to the Gunks first up is Co-Ex. It used to feel hard. Sometimes it still does.
For third classing Frogshead is by far my favorite. Up Maria, down Frogshead, up City Lights, down Frogshead, up Frogshead then back down it. It's a great hour of climbing and like I said I really like Frogshead. lol
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2014 - 06:01pm PT
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the Reptile is also polished to a fine sheen
so when you return a rope is a good bet
to keep both your feet and knees in working order
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Sep 24, 2014 - 06:56pm PT
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Apoplexy. With the chimney finish.
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ClimbingOn
Trad climber
NY
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Sep 24, 2014 - 07:42pm PT
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Feast of Fools. Seems like almost every time I go to the Gunks I get on it.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Sep 24, 2014 - 07:59pm PT
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Lazy Bum (5.10d) was our "go to" climb for those lazy summer days when you just wanted to relax, drink a lot of beer, listen to some Jimi and watch girls in wet T-shirts at the base of Lower Yosemite Falls. There's a great no-hands rest right below the crux. I climbed it so many times I was very close to free-soloing it.
Also free-soloed the Great White Book over and over, usually carrying an open beer in one hand.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Sep 24, 2014 - 08:14pm PT
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Coarse and Buggy
Clean and Jerk
Leave it to Beaver
!st pitch of BW
1st five of CPOF
1st of Reeds
1st of Outer Limits
Quarryman
Popeye and the Raven
Perspective
Exasperator
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2014 - 03:37am PT
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Rich Es are you guys around
Of course there are two who are here that use their sorrt'ta superT
Names
They both are really great
One is THEMAN along with jstan
And he infect was on the FA of the rig ...of this thread
........Barlrog
The other rich is a true trooper as well and his posts span from photos in1890's to present
My favorite has to be the cool report on operation ...yikes I can't remember!....... it was some thing about tripping and mushrooms the government one guy !Sandoz, Owsley , Huxley the truth behind ,,,,, wow that hippnosis thing... RR ...now I believe !!!!
Write it out, lazy Cali dude,.Bichoff?Williams......Center Pillar Of FRENZY??!!!
That's the great stuff write it out for those with no head for acronyms!
For the ditch it was drag a rope on Bishops Terrace solo
w/a belay
. The Reeds Pinacle / cookie stuff the thing below serenity crack ?? Adrenaline crack ??
Never third classed the GreatBook though!?,!!?
For Josh I'LL Just say. No ...
that would give it away
Hart and Soul ,Solid Gold,"Figures".....
Bambi meets Godzilla
Ski tracks
left
or right ?
Loose lips
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troutboy
Trad climber
Newark, DE
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Sep 25, 2014 - 08:43am PT
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the Reptile is also polished to a fine sheen
Assuming you are referring to Frogshead, you mean the Amphibian is also polished to a fine sheen.:-)
TS
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coolrockclimberguy69
climber
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Sep 25, 2014 - 10:12am PT
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Lazy Bum (5.10d) was our "go to" climb for those lazy summer days when you just wanted to relax, drink a lot of beer, listen to some Jimi and watch girls in wet T-shirts at the base of Lower Yosemite Falls.
The Dagger, Lightweight Guide and Guiding Light (I think I got those names right) are good for that, too. I seem to remember a fun TR face between LG and GL as well. The Dagger is one of my all time favorite Valley single pitches.
You can also head up to Ten Days After for a lap or two.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Sep 25, 2014 - 11:28am PT
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Yes, I was on the FA of Balrog (McCarthy led it) and made the FFA of Coexistence (with McCarthy following. That was 47 years ago...) I live near and have climbed in the Gunks for something like 57 years now, so it is inevitable that I would have repeated routes, in fact too many to mention, especially during a period of five years or so when I was guiding. So I hope y'all will pardon me for not submitting a list, which would end up reading like a selected guide to the area!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2014 - 03:38pm PT
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))(())DOH ! ! ! troutbooya got me !!
no Excuses !
rgold:
swanky tuff climbing from beging to end.
then add the Limited ?? shoes Or sneakers??
The Light weight leather Austrian shoe?
Seems the JTree tease was a miss
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adam d
climber
CA
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Sep 25, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
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Balrog is cool.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Sep 25, 2014 - 10:04pm PT
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Sep 25, 2014 - 10:59pm PT
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My most repeats was only about 5 total on a hiball fa called Milmares.
Last time I did it - got out of sequence and saw that one of the holds (high up) flexes if pulled on very much.
You really gotta want it now.
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c_vultaggio
Trad climber
new york
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Sep 26, 2014 - 07:59am PT
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the 'rog
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2015 - 06:16pm PT
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Hey EVEL is that second pitch of son of Keep on Struttin? .. .. .. .) also there ya' go ^^^ Balrog! fine shot!!
if it is then is it flipped,? reverse bug I think?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I simply can't get enough of the Hummingbird Ridge on Mt. Logan.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2015 - 06:24pm PT
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dooood, so glad that i saw this and it made me grin ,<,/;+D to hear ya and may I point out
Good on Ya' !!
LUCKY SCHNOOK!!
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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I used to 3rd class the Dirty Gerdie and Junior but they are now polished to glass!
Climbed Dirty Gerdie for the first time this past fall. Man that was fun! And yes, smooth as glass. Can't believe you could 3rd class that baby. Mind-boggling.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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The Open Book (my first 5.9 lead) and O'Kelly's Crack are two of my favorite climbs. Haven't done Flower of High Rank.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Gnome- yes that is p2 of Struttin. But it's not flipped. That's right where the route starts to slab out! ;)
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Indeed Randisi, The Entrance Exam!
And so very many more.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2016 - 11:25pm PT
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Always good,
Horseman, (5.5) climbs up to & through the big corner
Here's mud in yer eye!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 13, 2016 - 12:04am PT
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great bump, wish to climb in the 'Gunks again... who knows...
never did Balrog nor Junior
but the first time on Dirty Gerdy was in Sept. 1984
Frog's Head 1982, Maria and City Lights 1983
that was 35 years ago, so much more to do...
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Jul 13, 2016 - 06:57am PT
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I hate Balrog. It looks so doable until I get close; then it turns into a nightmare for me.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 13, 2016 - 11:10pm PT
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repeated climbs (more than 10 ascents)
After Six (mostly solos)
Bishop's Terrace
Nutcracker
Generator Crack
Munginella
Pot Belly
South Crack
Eunich
Hermaphrodite Flake
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jul 14, 2016 - 06:10am PT
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Haven't been at this that long, but with Patty,
Walk on the Wild Side
Fingertrip
El Whampo
With Mark (my first Mentor), getting on Whodunit is a regular thing.
Too many things I HAVEN'T done.....
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jul 14, 2016 - 11:18am PT
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In Boulder Canyon - The Owl on the Dome, Empor and Huston on Cob Rock
In Taylor Canyon, Gunnison - Left Hand, and Dunn's Dihedral
These are all pretty weak sauce for most people here.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Jul 14, 2016 - 11:46am PT
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Country Club Crack, Castle Rock
Climbed it every day for over a month one year.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 14, 2016 - 11:50am PT
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Gnome mentioned Loose lips in JT. You know the whole thing under the horizontal crack fell off some time ago. Before that happened i recall watching Coz solo that thing in a big down jacket on a blustery winter afternoon.
When I started climbing at The Gunks we'd TR Dirtie Gerdie from time to time. More recently I was back there, and as Barbara and I walked past it I decided I wanted to lead it. This was about ten years ago. As I flaked my rope out and grabbed a couple thin tcu's some of the young buff boulderers there and other folks turned to watch. I thought to myself "what's up, some old guy is gonna lead 5.8". It seemed kind of dicey for 5.8.
When I was back down some dude walked by me and said under his breath so as not to be heard by the others, "nice lead".
Horseman has a special place in my heart. On my first day climbing my mentor led us up Three Pines. Our descent brought us down at the Uberfall. He informed me that it was my turn to lead, and that Horseman would be a good choice. Taking him at his word, up I went.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jul 14, 2016 - 12:07pm PT
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Though I'm trying not to do repeats these days, I have found myself repeatedly on Left Crack, Park Lane, NW Buttress, and Daytrippin (all in the Selenites) with a host of first timers to the area. Used to have a little day circuit, up to 4500', I repeatedly soloed at The Leap in the 70's. Ah, but that was ages ago when the physical body felt light and without use wear.
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Jul 14, 2016 - 12:20pm PT
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Bonnie's Roof Direct (i.e. no P3 bailout to the left... straight up).
Fantastic pro and swinging on P3 with 60m of air below.... so cool...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 14, 2016 - 12:26pm PT
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I suppose the routes I've repeated the most times could be
Tahquitz: Daves Deviation P1.
Suicide: Flower of High Rank or Etude.
Needles: Igor Unchained, Spook Book, Howling.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Jul 14, 2016 - 08:55pm PT
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Conway Summit....Watched Don O'Kelly climb O'Kelly crack....Have some slides somewhere...?
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