Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 51 of total 51 in this topic |
M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 22, 2014 - 08:19pm PT
|
Calaveras Dome - aka "Little Yosemite". High quality/multi-pitch granite adventure routes without the park hassles or crowds.
|
|
M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2014 - 08:29pm PT
|
High TImes (aka silk road) 11b. one of the best multi-pitch crack climbs in the US.
|
|
rincon
Trad climber
Coarsegold
|
|
|
Sep 22, 2014 - 08:32pm PT
|
If that place was 3 hours from Los Angeles, there'd be climbers all over it!
|
|
mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Sep 22, 2014 - 08:44pm PT
|
And Ron also forgot to mention that it's completely lousy with poison oak, and often the slabs are hotter than a cast iron skillet, and every belay is infested with angry biting ants.
|
|
M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2014 - 08:50pm PT
|
... total adventure!
|
|
M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2014 - 08:56pm PT
|
right you are, but keep it on the down low:)
|
|
rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
|
|
|
Sep 22, 2014 - 08:57pm PT
|
Mexican cartels may well have a number of grow operations in the vicinity and guard their turf with extreme predjudice. Also there Is no services of any kind, Including cell service, within a half hour drive. Your on your own, dont have any expectations of rescue in the event of mishap.
|
|
BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Sep 22, 2014 - 09:04pm PT
|
So what youre saying is that we will be ron-free when we visit cal dome? Splendid.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Sep 22, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
|
Sounds like real climbing to me.
Gotta check it out.
What other long moderates grace the flanks?
|
|
BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Sep 22, 2014 - 09:12pm PT
|
Guess you got to do something in your old age....poor thing
|
|
M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2014 - 09:13pm PT
|
this guy's only 25 years old and this is what he looks like after just one day climbing at cal dome.
|
|
rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
|
|
|
Sep 22, 2014 - 09:16pm PT
|
What a hell hole. No wonder people never talked about bitd. It should be removed from the map.
|
|
BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Sep 22, 2014 - 09:20pm PT
|
Thats what happens when certain people enter a discussion narcissistically, and are upset because they cant climb anything there. Sooo, they shoot it! Dingaling dingdong!
|
|
BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Sep 22, 2014 - 09:22pm PT
|
Cal dome is good sh#t, hardly a secret, and I welcome the bugs, oak, and bush....and Hansi has been 25 for the 20 years ive known him....give me your secrets o counselman...
|
|
rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
|
|
|
Sep 22, 2014 - 09:32pm PT
|
On a serious note; the last time I was in there , several years ago,the campsite nearest the bridge looked like it was being used as the local dump. Greg and I took out two 33 gal garbage bags full and hardly made a dent. Do yourselves and the community of climbers a favor, when visiting there not only take out your own trash, but also remove some extra.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
|
|
|
Sep 22, 2014 - 11:10pm PT
|
The thread should be deleted, and the OP banned for life.
|
|
pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
|
|
|
Sep 24, 2014 - 09:47am PT
|
I live in Woodfords, Calif. Last year, we left my place at 6:30 AM, drove 51 miles to the Ellis Rd turnoff, down to the dome, climbed Old Smokey, and drove back to Woodfords in time for dinner @ 6 PM. Having not been there for several years, we wasted at least an hour wandering around on the approach. Did not see any snakes and did not have poison oak problems. No one there except the Dam keeper & a low flying Cessna.
. Bob Pinckney
|
|
pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2014 - 11:23am PT
|
Old photo of the Hidden Wall with Jeff Altenburg
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2014 - 12:18pm PT
|
Pretty much every semi serious climber I know has climbed on it. There are a lot of people climbing the Silk Road and War of The Walls on most in season weekends. If the thing was not hot as hell in mid summer, it would be a great spot for cragging.
|
|
Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2014 - 01:13pm PT
|
Silk road was awesome. Really well protected too! Are there any other good harder routes there that are reasonably protected for my next visit? We looked at Karakorum Highway and it looked too mossy to be fun. Tsunami? Laughing Hyena? Original sin? Other than an old picture from Jim T. of someone on Tsunami I never hear of anyone climbing there. Nothing other than silk road and war of the walls at least.
|
|
lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2014 - 04:31pm PT
|
Hey Bob
Wasn't Rainer L with you on the FA? Any pics?
lars
|
|
pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2014 - 06:29pm PT
|
Hey there Lars, photos of Rainer Lambrecht on the FA of Old Smokey.
It was very hot in the summer as other have mentioned, and that is one
of the reasons we chose this route to do because it looked like it would be
shady up higher. Many years later Dave Yerian and I added bolts and chains
at the belays. Give Rainer a shout out for me!
....
|
|
Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2014 - 06:48pm PT
|
That topo shows 14 pitches . . . are they all 80' long?
|
|
lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2014 - 06:55pm PT
|
Thanx Bob
I went up a few years later to do Old Smokey with JA. We did the first 2 pitches and JA says, "that's it, it's just junk ahead, I'm going down" I looked up and saw beautiful corners and said, "Whadaya mean, it looks great." Ja said HE was going down and taking the gear with him. Master of Descent.
Even later Chuck and I forged to the base with brutal hangovers only to discover that Chuck forgot his harness!
lars
|
|
Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2014 - 08:02pm PT
|
That's right Chim Chim !
Silk Road Was originally called
High Times according to
Jay Smith .
|
|
rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2014 - 08:36am PT
|
Great picture of you three Bob. What was that 1975 or something? Got any other good pictures showing the characters from bitd Bob?
I dont recall naming it at all when Jay and I did the first six pitches way back when Stewart. He must have named it High Times on further explorations later.
|
|
Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2014 - 08:53am PT
|
I See ,thanks Rick
Jay seemed a bit miffed about the
namechange
It's a good way to get him fired up!
|
|
rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2014 - 09:03am PT
|
Just one of many routes that were bolted over, slight variations added, erased of first ascensionists and renamed as different routes with new FA'ists, Stewart. I could name at least another half dozen in the wider Tahoe area with the same treatment. Oh well, I guess thats progress.
|
|
Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2014 - 09:46am PT
|
Don Garrett and I did Wall of the Worlds many years ago, in August yet. We did the first pitches to the big ledge, set up a tarp and proceeded to hang out in the heat. Hauled a lot of water too. Next am we tossed the bag and went on to the top...one way to try and beat the heat. Beacons to Mars is pretty good too as well as Sea of Holes across the river. Great place.
No, I mean, terrible place...poison oak, rattlers...heat...only strange 70s like climbers known to be social misfits would go to a place like this. You'll never be SEEN at THE SCENE here. What to do (?).
|
|
Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2014 - 05:57pm PT
|
I can't beleive it I'm with the Chef
Dump this thread Mike
|
|
Aaron Johnson
climber
Bear Valley, CA
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2014 - 06:36pm PT
|
Don't fret, deleting the post won't matter much. Even after Climbing Magazine highlighted CalDome with a cover shot and the title "Big Stone Little Know" the hordes never showed up; too much adventure for the average climber. Rather the routes often need a little more traffic and eventually the obscurities (which many are classics in their own right) will start to clean up. It's a super cool place with lots of (tumultuous) history. If your up for an adventure give CalDomes a try.
|
|
Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2014 - 06:47pm PT
|
Hansi Bump. Definitely the best dude in the world.
|
|
M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2014 - 05:14pm PT
|
sounds like silk road should be called high times.
|
|
ruppell
climber
|
|
Yep. High Times with the Silk Road start is always what I've referred to it as. Total BS renaming a whole route for a shitty one pitch variation at the start.
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
|
|
Did someone say TSUNAMI???
I'm actually starting to run out of "new" things to climb out there. Gotta get over to Hidden Dome I guess. I hear it's less chossy and the place to go even though the approach is an hour strait up hill, covered in snakes and poison oak and the pay grade starts at .12+
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Dan,
At (3) on the topo, I believe it is trying to show "sb"
(for sling belay), not "xx".
But it is fuzzy, so it may look a lot like "xx".
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
Keep posting up the goods on spots such as this old time favorite and the crowds will/do come.
I hear this about a lot of places like Cal Dome and I really haven't seen it happen and it doesn't look like it will anytime soon.
Share away everyone, this thread is cool!
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
|
|
Keep posting up the goods on spots such as this old time favorite and the crowds will/do come.
I hear this about a lot of places like Cal Dome and I really haven't seen it happen and it doesn't look like it will anytime soon.
Share away everyone, this thread is cool!
The crowds won't come, the pay grade is too high!
Chim, not really sure where you're building an anchor that is so shitty. Wait, yes I do cuz I used to build an anchor in that spot too. Here's what to do instead. Do the traverse and round the corner. Climb up about 8 or so feet to a small pod which makes a great stance with bomber 1/2" to 3/4" gear. Make sure you set up the belay with the slack pileing on your left and the seconds line feeding down to your right. Then leave enough slack in your system to get out of the way when your follower rounds the bend and you're golden. It took me several trips up that route to figure that one out, which seems so obvious to me now.
Anyway, I wouldn't chop your anchor, but do agree that it's totally un-necessary. On the other hand, it is one of the very few anchors at Cal Domes that is NOT already bolted.
Here's one of the classics that never gets climbed least even mentioned but is 5 stars in anyones book, especially the mentally challenged who enjoy the Wyde.
Or how about one of the best and most sustained lieback arches in the United States, if not the world.
185ft of leibacking. No move harder than 5.11, but none easier than .10d. Literally!!!
|
|
Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
|
|
Great photos Sal, those are all trains that have left the station without me!!! You're right the pay grade at Cal Dome is indeed high, way to get after it!!!
|
|
Aki J
Trad climber
Placerville, CA
|
|
For those of us more moderately inclined, the Mexican flake pitch is a 70m stretcher of 5.9!
|
|
M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2014 - 11:04am PT
|
Hidden Wall, CA. These routes are too good to keep secret.
|
|
looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
|
|
Aki J, that corner is GORGEOUS (and, more importantly, in my pay grade :p)! Love the contrast of the friction on the right and with all the features on the left.
|
|
rincon
Trad climber
Coarsegold
|
|
Keep posting up the goods on spots such as this old time favorite and the crowds will/do come.
I hear this about a lot of places like Cal Dome and I really haven't seen it happen and it doesn't look like it will anytime soon.
Share away everyone, this thread is cool!
Yeah, and with all that 5.12 trad climbing, I doubt the Hidden Wall will ever be crowded.
|
|
dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
|
|
Holy sh#t that looks good! but hard...
|
|
rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
|
|
Mike, I remember gazing up from the base at that leaning tower steep wall and thinking here is some real challenges for the next generations. I noticed all those bolts next to the cracks in your pictures. Were the routes aided originally to get those in and is that what is considered trad these days? Sort of like first free ascents?
|
|
M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2014 - 05:02pm PT
|
rick - right of rainbow arch? no bolting cracks.
|
|
Gobie
Trad climber
Northern, Ca.
|
|
Ive seen all of the above mentioned at Cal Dome. Stay Away!
|
|
bonin_in_the_boneyard
Trad climber
Oak Land, California
|
|
|
Oct 13, 2014 - 11:27am PT
|
First time I went to Cal Dome, we discovered that someone had left an unspent round in the fire pit when our fire set it off and it whistled past my ear. Faaak.
Fast forward a few trips and I held my bachelor party there. For some reason we thought it would be a good idea to break out a bucket of balls and a driver and start whacking into the darkness around the campsite. (Yes I'm a d!ck and I totally regret that and should never have done it and I totally didn't enjoy it at all especially when invisible balls ricocheted off trees and back at us in the dark.)
Good times, good times.
But Cal Dome sucks and if you even make it there without your car axles giving out you'll be stung to death by wasps or kidnapped by the cartel. No one should ever go there. And definitely don't bring your fishing rod...
|
|
ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
|
|
|
Oct 13, 2014 - 02:43pm PT
|
As anyone can see from the pics , the place is total choss and
one should go elsewhere. That being said some of us locals
working for Kirkwood back in the late 70's made regular jaunts
to that area . I remember doing some of the best climbs and f/a's
I've ever done..and no one was there c'ept us.
|
|
Hickicick
climber
NV
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2014 - 05:47am PT
|
BUMP. Anybody got any info on november/december conditions? Snowy wetness, access, too cold to climb?
|
|
| Messages 1 - 51 of total 51 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!