Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 83 of total 83 in this topic |
Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 22, 2014 - 05:49pm PT
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As a first run I made 4 heads, 3 are on wood handles and one is waiting for a fiberglass handle on back order. Do you think this looks better than the original?
Old style:
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Sep 22, 2014 - 07:42pm PT
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NICE...
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sep 22, 2014 - 07:54pm PT
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Nice Dan!
That looks choice!
How heavy?
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Sep 22, 2014 - 08:02pm PT
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Sweet looking hammers-the finer longer taper pick seems like it could be cool...center handle in your 4th picture looks solid.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 22, 2014 - 08:15pm PT
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I don't know dude. Yeah, sure, I have no doubt it's totally superior for pounding on sh#t, but you're really gonna have to work on the bottle opener if you want me to buy one. It just ain't gonna work the way you've got it set up now...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Sep 22, 2014 - 08:17pm PT
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David, I knew you were a drinker with a climbing problem!!! :-)
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2014 - 09:12pm PT
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Could you make me a BAN HAMMER?
DMT, come by the garage and you can make any sort of hammer you want. There is a fridge in the garage and it needs lots of beer so bring some.
Ghost, WTF was I thinking? I going to spend the rest of the week designing the perfect hammer/bottle opener. Best idea that's come across my radar in ages. Just you wait, I'm not kidding.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2014 - 07:50am PT
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Mucci-
The heads weigh around 16.8 ounces. The longer handled ones are 13.5" and about 24 ounces.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Sep 23, 2014 - 08:12am PT
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Damn Dingus this troll has a hard on for ya...Wonder if she works for Kumar?
Hey prdystrangelady - why do you and DMT get a rooom - geeeeze.
kev
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2014 - 08:45am PT
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a guy, who's been climbing a couple years and is already where you maxed out at
Please tell us how big your penis is.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2014 - 09:19am PT
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prrrdylady-
Yes, it is hard to follow you who has referred to yourself and a guy and a textured Ken doll. Nope, I can't picture it. Perhaps you should post a photo for us.
BTW, the machete is nice. I am curious what he used for steel and if he heat treated it. The finger hook on the end of the handle is a nice feature that I haven't seen on a machete before.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2014 - 03:15pm PT
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It seems that prrrdylady and its posts are gone - good things happen.
Two days ago. Bob left his headlamp at the base again resulting in 3 single headlamp rappels down the unknown, after dark, on a moonless night.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2014 - 06:16pm PT
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Finally attached DAMMERR heads number 9 and 13 to handles. I think these are the nicest two hammers I've made so far. I think these two are called for but if anybody wants a hammer, let me know and perhaps we can work out a deal.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Nov 26, 2014 - 08:44pm PT
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I think its gorgeous but the handle is too round. It will rotate in the/my grip; it should be very oval for better point control. In order to maintain or force the radial position of the head. Looks Japanese even, like many of their hammers in woodworking. I would need it oval.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2014 - 10:02pm PT
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Peter-
I am pleased that you like the look of my hammer. however, I am not sure - perhaps even fear that you have leapt to an unfounded conclusion. The handle is not round - except for where it fits into the head.
Not a big deal.
Perhaps you would like to try one of my hammers out? I'd be happy to loan one or put you in touch with someone who is using one. Then, if you did or didn't like it, your opinion, positive or negative, might have a bit more behind it.
Criticism will be happily accepted and even encouraged because I am only interested in making nice hammers. I swear I'm not making money doing this. Most of my hammers have been given to repay favors or for traded for things that interest me.
The perfectly round bit that fits into the head has advantages and disadvantages.
On the negative side I have to be careful when I install the head to make sure it is aligned with the oval section of the handle so that, as you point out, the user can keep the head aligned with the work. This seems to be harder than one might think and I have got it wrong sometimes.
On the plus side, I can get a fit of the handle into the head that is as perfect as is possible for wood to steel. I drill a hole in the head and measure the diameter with calipers. Then I put the handle in a metal lathe and using the calibrated cross slide, I turn it to fit the head within a few thousandths of an inch. Then I saw a kerf and install a wedge. Rather than hammer the wedge in and bugger things up, I press it in with a hydraulic press.
I think they are pretty good hammers but would be happy to improve them.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Nov 26, 2014 - 10:22pm PT
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bumpity fun hammer talk
Dan, have you thought about making a trenching Chouinard-like hammertool?
More than one poster has described using the long pick end old style Chouinard hammers as dirt digging implements/gravel removal tools.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Nov 26, 2014 - 10:36pm PT
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Banquo, thanks and you are doing remarkable and astounding work!! Approaching jewelry, I dare say! No question about it and thank you very much while we are at it! You are doing angels' work, I have to say.
Your photographs of the whole hammer sure look like the handle is pretty much round as hell where the grip is. Nothing I would hate more than a heavy power hammer with a really "round" grip, which you averred is not the case. The less stress on the elbow and wrist the better with hammers. Rotational effects upon impact and insecurity in pointing the head would a PIA.
I am glad this is an aberration of photography. When I hammer, I want complete perfect mastery over the point of the head and I don't want the sucker rotating within my grip as it impacts and wants to turn. All this is obvious to you, I am sure. Perhaps show us a photograph of an end view of the handle below the grip. Anything to a-lay fears that your wondrous hammers might be fighting their grip.
best regards Banquo, ph.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2014 - 08:19am PT
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Munge -
I have thought about a cleaning pick. Most of us using hammrs are on first ascent so there is always a lot of cleaning. A pick on a hammer is a nuisance to carry around and the size of the hammer limits it's deployment as a cleaning tool. I think a small cleaning tool would generally work better. Of course there isn't much purpose for the pick I have. I have made it narrow so the biner hole works well (better than the BD hole). I have set nuts with it.
For a cleaning tool I generally use and old screwdriver that has been cut off and bent to 90 degrees. Cragnshag uses this and hangs it on a cool fly fisherman's magnetic net lanyard. The magnet is really cool because all you have to do is get the two parts close and they align and attach.
http://www.orvis.com/p/original-magnetic-net-holder/318t
Also see the old Forrest "Nut Hammer"
http://www.supertopo.com/inc/photo_zoom.php?dpid=MjM6Pzo7JSAq
Peter-
What I would like to do is figure out a method and jig for making my own handles. So far I have been buying off the shelf handles and turning them to fit the head. The machine they use to make handles is terrifying:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
I am thinking about a router replicator of some sort but haven't got there yet. So, perhaps the profile of the handles I am using aren't exactly what you want but someday I hope to be able to make anything you want.
Any wood workers out there have a method for making handles?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Nov 27, 2014 - 05:11pm PT
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Dan, great idea on the lanyard. That just went on the xmas list!
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2015 - 12:07pm PT
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Changed the DAMMERR hammer head a little bit. I made more of a pick by curving the underside. This was at the request of somebody who says they like the pick for cleaning and prying rocks off.
I have 6 on hand if anybody needs a hammer.
Yes, you can open beers.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jan 26, 2015 - 12:15pm PT
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Lol, beer popper testing!
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Jan 26, 2015 - 04:15pm PT
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You've got skillz. I especially like the pin through the head itself, rather than the extraneous tangs like piton hammers have had for a long, long time.
What's the cord wrap near the head for?
And isn't the grain running 90 degrees from where it should be for prying purposes?
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 26, 2015 - 04:20pm PT
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Kitty likes the dunk!
Larry, the cord is to protect the neck of the handle when you miss the 1" in angle.
Glad you are continuing t production Dan!
Can't say enough about the quality of these beat sticks.
GET ONE!
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Jan 26, 2015 - 04:37pm PT
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Huh I guess that's what the tangs are/were for too. I still like the elegance of the pin in the head.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2015 - 06:32pm PT
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DMT - at DAMMERR hammers we know better than to fart around an open flame.
The cord wrap is there because I like how it looks. If you don't, it is easy enough to remove.
The cat is responsible for grain orientation - I don't question him.
Actually, I buy the handles pre-shaped and the orientation of the grain and growth rings is what it is. All I do is cut to length and turn the end down for a precise fit in the head. The handle is oval in section so only goes one way. Rotating the handle in the head shouldn't have noticeable influence on the bending strength but will change the shear strength. Shear strength is somewhat less tangent to the growth rings than perpendicular to the growth rings. As a orthotropic material, wood has three orientations for strength. The three directions are:
perpendicular to the grain
parallel to the grain and radial to the growth rings
parallel to the grain and tangential to the growth rings.
To be complete, there is also rolling shear but I won't go into that as it doesn't occur in the loading we expect.
Although there is definitely a difference between the shear strengths in the tangential and radial directions, the difference actually isn't usually large. The shear strength on a plane tangential to the rings is less than the shear strength radial to the rings. Shear strength in a plane perpendicular to the grain is very high compared to the other two.
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Jan 26, 2015 - 09:02pm PT
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OK I'm going to get the rock-prying retrofit for my Dammerr. Now I just need some good choss to liberate.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2015 - 05:05am PT
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Cragnshag-
We can easily modify your hammer, bring it by. Supposed to rain this weekend so nothing else to do.
Finally found some data for the parallel to grain shear strength of hickory.
Average tangential shear strength is 1200 psi.
Average radial shear strength is 1300 psi
This assumes no cracks or checking.
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couchmaster
climber
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The nice thing about a hammer vs a nut tool for cleaning, is that the handle makes it SOOOO much easier to clean out cracks all day. Eventually, with a small tool, your hands become like little claws. The way to stop the claws from occurring is to use a larger tool. I've been using a Stubia Hornet Ice tool. (Adze version, not hammer version). It's pretty common in these parts. You don't want to fall and get impaled by a pick though. LOL
Adam Winslow on lead.
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Dan,
I tried to e-mail you but it may have gone to spam. If you give me an address I will send you one of my new tuning forks. Way better than last years model, better steel and more compact.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2015 - 07:51am PT
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Roger,
I'm easy to find via Google
danielmerrick
at
gmail
dot
com
Let me know if you need a DAMMERR hammer.
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Ken
Trad climber
Arroyo Grande
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To get oval handles when you're spindle turning between centers, mount one or both sides off-center to get the oval effect. You would need enough stock to start with obviously.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Couchmaster, you guys are just a little to bold in the choss. I've done some of your routes and I have just one question, is poison oak a legitimate handhold like moss?
Sorry, thread drift!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Email sent.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2015 - 04:21pm PT
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Demand for DAMMERRs is up to about two a week for some reason. Here's a photo of all the hammers I have on hand.
Also a drill holder. I still have a few of these.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2015 - 08:57pm PT
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Have some more hammer heads done.
Also, I've figured out a handle I can make that improves (I think) on some of the shortcomings of the various handles I have been buying. I simply can't find an off the shelf handle that is exactly what I want. I've figured out a way to make handles that isn't perfect but I think is better than what I can buy. The main issue some have brought up is that the grip on the more recent hammers has a fairly round cross section and some say they prefer an oval or other shape grip that lets them feel which way the hammerhead is pointed.
Sourcing hickory stock material for the handles isn't easy so if anybody has a source of good, dry, straight-grained hickory, let me know. I'd be happy to trade hickory <-> hammer.
I'll want to find some people to try out the new handles pretty soon.
Some people wonder why I don't have eyebrows:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Love seeing you doing your own heat treatment. Way cool.
I think though an essential feature of a wall hammer is tangs. A hammer is such an essential piece of gear on a remote wall, failure's not an option. Every hammer i ever had without metal tangs to hold the hammer securely seemed to loosen and fail after serious heavy use.
Is there any way you could develop some curved tangs for your round hole, without having to change your design too much?
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2015 - 08:15am PT
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Deuce4,
Tangs are hard to make and, I think, make the head hard to fit perfectly tight. I thought no tangs was one of the things that made the McDevitt hammer drill faster in my tests. Also, although the hammers will pound pitons, my attempt was to optimize them for drilling.
I turn the handles on a metal lathe so the fit is perfect. I then press the head on, press the wedge in and drill for the pin. Lastly, I soak the end grain with boiled linseed oil which I hope minimizes moisture change. When linseed oil polymerizes, it actually increased a bit in volume. The heads are fit as well as I can get them.
I agree that a hammer failure could be a disaster on any climb. I am concerned about both the head flying off and the handle breaking. To keep the head from popping off, I have a spring pin driven through the head and handle. The pin also passes through the steel wedge. In the current set of hammer heads, I have moved the hole for the pin up a bit so it passes through a thicker part of the wedge. In previous hammers the pin passes through the tip of the wedge and I fear that they may tear out. The only way the head can fly off is if the pin tears out through the wedge. This, I think, is a better connection than the tang/pin assembly usually used.
I think the handle breaking is more likely with the hammers I've made. Some of the wood handles I've bought aren't straight grained or have other defects. I've just ordered a slab of hickory from a guy and will mill some handles myself. I've only seen photos of the slab so will have to wait to see how nice it really is. I will warn everybody that the handles I plan to make may be a bit crude looking - perhaps rustic is a better description. Also, this set of heads hasn't been tempered quite as much and I don't know how that will work out.
My anti tang tendency is also influenced by my climbing partner Bob (cragnshag on ST). Bob somehow consistently manages to shear the tang pin on Yosemite hammers. Give him a brand new hammer and in a season the pin will be sheared off and the tangs splayed out. It is so bad that I wouldn't let him use my Yosemite hammer because he would wreck it. He is also the only guy I know that has had the head fly off his hammer on a climb. He and Clint were at Balloon Dome a couple years ago working on a new route when the head flew off his Yosemite hammer, bounced down the face and was never seen again.
I should get a hammer to you to try. I have a hammer I can send you if you get your address to me. It has a slight defect and nobody seems to want it. The defect is a small saw cut in the pick which shouldn't have any effect on it's performance. Hopefully postage half way round the planet won't be too bad.
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couchmaster
climber
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Looks like the nick would be an improved beer opener! You need to be charging EXTRA for extra features:-)
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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We got our hickory handles from a company called OP Link, somewhere in the south.
Your design sounds sound. Would like to see the spring pin design. I will pm you.
Cheers
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Sourcing hickory stock material for the handles isn't easy so if anybody has a source of good, dry, straight-grained hickory, let me know.
What about pillaging thrift stores of their baseball bats?
I hope you'll be making these for a while: I covet, but can't justify, yet.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Bob somehow consistently manages to shear the tang pin on Yosemite hammers. True. Bob hits pretty hard, which makes the bolts go in fast, but it's hard on the equipment.
The tang rivet on my Yosemite hammer from 1974 got broken, but I've since replaced it with a max diameter nail that I peened over by hand.
This has been working great for me.
And since you have been supplying Bob with hammers, he hasn't stressed mine recently. :-)
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2015 - 05:58am PT
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We got our hickory handles from a company called OP Link, somewhere in the south.
Link still makes handles and some of the first DAMMERRs had link handles. I have contacted a couple handle manufacturers to see if they would alter some of their patterns to match my needs but none seem interested in supplying custom handles to a guy making a few hammers in his garage.
I hope you'll be making these for a while: I covet, but can't justify, yet.
I'll probably keep making them so long as a few people want them. It is a hobby and I may lose interest. The fun is in tweaking the design and method of fabrication.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Sweet hammers!
I have one of the good Forest hammers otherwise I'd get one.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2015 - 10:47am PT
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Spider,
One lousy hammer? That's like having one beer!
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2015 - 02:44pm PT
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A sack of hammers is stupider than a box of hammers.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2015 - 09:50pm PT
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Being discouraged with the handles I can buy, I have resorted to making my own. I bought a slab of kiln dried hickory.
I've never worked with hickory before, it is very heavy and very hard. I ripped and surfaced it into 1" pieces then rough cut the handles. I then milled them to the finished shape. The heads are slightly different in that I raised the pin a little bit to get abetter bite in the wedge. I think the pin going through the wedge is a better way to secure the head on the handle than the tangs used on most hammers. I get a better fit between the head and handle plus there is no way the head will fall off.
The handle is made from a rectangular piece. I wish you could hold it in your hand because I think it has a very good feel to it.
I will send #30 off this week to Aaron who I hope will use it and let us know what he thinks of it.
Edit: This, as I explained to my tolerant wife, is an art project and not a way to make money. The new handles mean each hammer takes even longer to make and if I sold them for minimum wage plus expenses, not a person on the planet would own one. Making a handle adds about 50% to the time it takes me to make a hammer but I think this is a better handle and better is just that - better. Figuring out how to make something good using the crap equipment I have in the garage is most of the fun. I think functional art is the best kind of art and I really only hope that people will use and enjoy my hammers. I hope Aaron wears it out so I can make an even better hammer for him.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Nice...
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Aaron McDonald
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Dan,
This looks great! Can't wait to get my hands on it!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Did you test each one of those for time to make a hole. I wonder if the design makes a big difference (size/shape of a handle etc), and how would they compare vs 'mainstream' manufacturers?
This is really awesome you are making own hammers!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Did you test each one of those for time to make a hole. I wonder if the design makes a big difference (size/shape of a handle etc), and how would they compare vs 'mainstream' manufacturers? He tested the commercial hammers and at least some of his early models.
The higher performance of the McDevitt hammer in drilling speed was the motivator to figure out why, and if it could be further improved.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2435668&msg=2462859#msg2462859 (Drilling hammers: speed and efficiency)
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2015 - 02:37pm PT
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My conclusion was that the most important variables were weight and handle length which I have incorporated into my hammers. However, I have decreased the handle length a bit because long handled hammers can be awkward in cramped spaces and long handles are more of a hassle to carry.
The other variables I think are important in efficiency are hardness of the steel and shape of the head. The current shape isn't optimum but I think the loss in efficiency is very small.
Weight is the most important variable but it is in large part an ergonomic issue so the optimum weight for me may not be for somebody else.
The most recent hammer is 13 inches over all. I forgot to weigh it and it is on its way to Aaron already but it should be right around 24 ounces.
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Your craftsmanship is outstanding. I really enjoy this thread. I have an A5 hammer that I like a lot, but every time you post I sort of drool. Thanks for sharing. One of the threads that keeps me coming back to this place.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Love the new stamp!
Can't wait to put mine to use, hopefully soon.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2015 - 09:23pm PT
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Your craftsmanship is outstanding. I really enjoy this thread. I have an A5 hammer that I like a lot, but every time you post I sort of drool.
Thank you, I'm happy if anybody appreciates what I am doing.
You should get a DAMMERR especially since they are fairly easy to get. Of all the hammers I have made, I have only sold a couple - the rest have been traded for something interesting and quite a few have simply been given away to people who are friends or are doing something for the collective good. If you want or covet a hammer, let me know what you are willing to trade or why I should give you one. Bartering is more fun and more rewarding than marketing. If you have, or better yet make something, propose a deal.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2015 - 06:40pm PT
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Seven hammers put together and need homes. serial #24 through #31 excluding #30 which has already arrived at its new home.
All of the handles are smooth and nice but some sanding might improve their looks. I advise rubbing the handles with boiled linseed oil. Linseed oil is a penetrating finish that polymerizes when it oxidizes. I also wipe down the heads with it to prevent rust. The thinnest layer will do.
My grandfather told me that when he went to the first world war they gave him a rifle with an unfinished stock and a tin of linseed oil. He was told to oil it once an hour for the first day, once a day for the next week and then once a week forever. A rubbed oil finish is very nice.
The handle on #30 was sanded and oiled before I sent it off. I think it looked really good.
I need to perfect my jigs for shaping the handles as some of them have router divots. The ones with divots are just fine as far as use goes. Sanding might make them look a little bit better.
In this photo they are numbered left to right:
Order is back to front in this one:
#24 has the smaller head because it was the tail end of the piece of stock I cut up. It has a nice raw wood handle. It weighs about 23 ounces as opposed to the ~24 ounces the others weigh. This one might be nice for a smaller person or a person who is having elbow issues. I could also take the head off and shorten the handle to make a mini backup or back country hammer.
#25 the handle has been oiled with boiled linseed. The handle has a shallow router divot on the palm side. Not very noticeable.
#26 Raw wood handle, has a router divot near the butt
#27 raw wood
#28 raw wood
#29 raw wood very slight router divot near butt
#31 is oiled and has a zinc screw
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2015 - 08:19pm PT
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OK, I was bothered by those handles with the router divots. They are really nice handles and completely useful handles but could look better. I have worked out the kinks in my fabrication jigs and made 4 more handles. These are really nice and I suppose I will have to take the irregular handles off numbers 25, 26, 29 and put better handles on.
These newest handles are sanded, oiled and look really nice. At least I think so.
Handle making steps:
1) Rip 1.75" thick slab and plane faces.
2) Cut each slice to rough length
3) Plane each piece to finish thickness
4) Trace template onto piece orienting to make grain as straight as
possible on finished handle
5) Rough cut out handle on band saw
6) Use trim router bit and shape piece
7) Center drill each end for lathe
8) Round over each face with router
9) Turn precise diameter on lathe to fit in head
10) Trim to finish length
11) Drill out end for leash
12) Three step drill for leash screw
thread diameter, shank diameter, counter sink
13) Band saw slot for wedge.
14) Sand
15) Oil numerous times
That still leaves mounting the head on the handle.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 12, 2015 - 09:44pm PT
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Looking really good!
What are your thoughts on the leash and its retaining screw?
I like the Chouinard Yosemite Hammer design (partly due to familiarity),
and am glad to see you are using the hole in the bottom of the handle.
The CYH uses 1/2" tubular webbing for the leash, which is light,
compact, and the knots don't tend to come loose.
The knot is small and goes entirely within the hole.
I noticed you are using the 5mm perlon, like the A5/D5 hammer.
Also you place the retaining screw on the long axis, vs. the short axis of the CYH.
With the CYH, my fingers barely touch the screw head, and I would be more concerned (for skin blisters) if it was on the long axis, where I feel like I'm gripping that part harder.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2015 - 09:01am PT
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Two typical attachments are the end hole like the Yosemite hammer (hereafter referred to as EH) and the side hole like most European hammers (SH hereafter). I have and can make any sort of leash attachment you want.
The SH is easier to make.
An EH won't fit in the fiberglass handle.
The EH allows me to mover the attachment high up the handle which is stronger. Increased end distance reduces the chance of end tearout.
With a SH the cord is subject to wear.
Running the screw in the front to back direction is stronger since there is more wood to engage.
The screw head sits flush and I use a flathead rather than the raised-countersink type on the Yosemite hammer. I can't see it giving anybody a blister. Some of the hammers have the screw front to back rather than back to front which might prevent blisters if blisters are a problem.
One reason I put the screw fore and aft is that it is different and to me different is much better if it works. It looks less like I am copying the Yosemite hammer.
Cord is very, very much easier to install. I fold the cord and simply push it into the hole. I watch for the fold to pass the screw hole and the fold makes a little open space or radius so the screw doesn't go through the cord and damage it. Trying to poke webbing into the hole and get it so it goes around the screw is hard.
The only advantage to having the knot outside the handle would be hanging it on a carabiner. This is easier to do with the SH.
If you know somebody who makes hammers, you can get whatever type of attachment you want. I have some nice 1/2" webbing on the workbench.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Mar 13, 2015 - 07:58pm PT
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Me wantee. When can I order one?
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2015 - 07:10am PT
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Moof - Whenever you want. #31 is gone but I still have the others shown above. If you don't have anything to trade, I'm asking $100 plus postage which is usually $11.30 for domestic priority. If you pick one of the ones with a divot in the handle you pay $80 plus postage. All the handles will look pretty if you sand them and oil them with linseed oil. I don't know when or even if I will make more heads.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
[Click to View YouTube Video]
[Click to View YouTube Video]
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Mar 14, 2015 - 08:52am PT
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Hammer Love!
(And that's a command.)
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Mar 23, 2015 - 01:57pm PT
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Beautifully machined hammer, Banquo. Even with the cut on the tail--i appreciate having a unique one-offs.
Definitely a piece of equipment I'd take on a big wall.
I like your spring pin design to keep the head in place. Look forward to hearing how it works for the hardmen long term. Seems like it could be a good solution.
Thanks for sending it!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Mar 23, 2015 - 02:00pm PT
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Endorsed by Deucey.
Proud work Dan.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2015 - 06:01pm PT
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Thanks for the mentioning the DAMMERR. I do my best to make a nice hammer.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Mar 23, 2015 - 09:51pm PT
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Definitely looks like the best hammer on the market. It's well balanced, and seems to do the trick--just drilled a hole in a piece of old sandstone in my backyard.
Back in the day I preferred a heavier hammer as I had the coordination and strength to efficiently wield even a heavier hammer deftly--but frankly, these days I'd probably even prefer the Dammerr to my hammer design--bones and muscles getting older.
It would be good to hear/see what the current hardmen think of it--how it holds up, etc. after a few walls. I think Banquo's got the heat treatment right as well, which is no mean feat if you are doing it yourself. Gotta say, it seems like quite a bargain for this hand-crafted rig at $100.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2015 - 06:36am PT
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Definitely looks like the best hammer on the market.
Thanks for the kind words.
Too bad you didn't get one with the new handle which I think is pretty nice. I need to get some out where people can try them.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Mar 24, 2015 - 06:37am PT
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I was able to heft one to check it's balance at the Pinns parking lot Sat. Thumbs up.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2015 - 04:58pm PT
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Ok so nobody jumped on the hammers with rough handles so I fixed them all up. Here's what i have left
25, 26, 27, 28
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2015 - 08:31am PT
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I made eight more DAMMERR heads and am in the process of making more handles.
I tried something new with #31. The drilled hole in the head is about 0.88" diameter. I bought some drawn over mandrel steel tube with 0.88 ID and 1.00" OD. It is medium carbon steel so I hardened it. Since it isn't high carbon steel, I didn't temper it but I did crush one to make sure it was still ductile and that it was harder than the untreated steel. I turned down the handle so the 1.25" long piece of tube is a nice press-fit. Without consulting me, my subconscious has deemed this the klutz version of the DAMMERR.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Jun 30, 2015 - 11:03am PT
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Got a chance to hold one of these at Todd's in April. Although I have never hand drilled a hole in rock, I can tell that this is one of the best hammers I have ever held. -my vintage collection probably has about 50-60 different hammers in it, so I've held a few...
His quality is amazing.
Banquo I want to buy one, but you keep improving your design which makes me want to wait for what's next!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 30, 2015 - 11:06am PT
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I need a guidance feature attached to the hammer. The guidance algo should deftly miss striking any knuckles, and hit the drill holder %99.999 of the time.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2015 - 12:22pm PT
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Roots,
Thanks for the kind words. There is a lot of time in each hammer and it is nice when someone appreciates them. I did send two hammers down to the Tom Gilje Party/Fundraiser and guess that is where you saw one. I haven't heard what happened to them but hope somebody bid on them.
Munge,
You saying you're a klutz?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 30, 2015 - 12:51pm PT
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Nice work, Dan.
Good to have a little protection for us klutzes (like what the tangs provide on other designs).
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Jun 30, 2015 - 01:21pm PT
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I need one of those bash collars for my thumb! But I won't need it for a while...
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2015 - 05:08pm PT
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Thanks Clint.
Roots,
If you wait too long, I will one day quit making them and you won't have one.
Bob,
Instead of steel toed boots you need steel fingered gloves I guess.
I am getting some sewn shoulder loops with steel rings for the hammers from Fish. They will go with this batch of eight hammers which will all have the steel collars.
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Stewart
Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
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Jun 30, 2015 - 05:17pm PT
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How about a metal strip to protect the shaft from errant blows [like on Chouinard's Yosemite hammer(et al)]?
Or is that what's on the most recent photo...?
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2015 - 06:04pm PT
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How about a metal strip to protect the shaft from errant blows [like on Chouinard's Yosemite hammer(et al)]?
One of the things my hammer testing concluded is that a tight and solid fit of the head on the handle is important in making a good drilling hammer - which is different than a good piton hammer. The DAMMERR is designed for drilling but will suffice for pitons. Most hammers are designed for pitons but will suffice for drilling. The tangs found on most climbing hammers are just one more layer of looseness and springiness in a system that you want to be as solid as possible. So, they are a deficit to hammer performance but do, perhaps, protect the handle from miss-strikes. I don't think such protection is needed for a drilling hammer but is probably more important for pitons. I don't pound pitons and have never had this problem. People seem concerned with it so I have added the steel sleeve to the handle to protect it. Personally, I don't think it is required but if people like it, I'm perfectly happy to install them.
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Stewart
Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
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Jun 30, 2015 - 06:10pm PT
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Banquo: thanks for your reply.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2015 - 07:17pm PT
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Larry,
The grain is oriented the weak way for shear but doesn't matter for bending and the handle failed in bending. The orientation of the growth rings in an extremely dense hardwood like hickory doesn't really matter a great deal - perhaps a 10% difference in shear strength for planes parallel to growth rings and grain as opposed to perpendicular to growth rings and parallel to grain. Shear strength in either of the two orientations perpendicular to the grain is so high that it isn't ever considered in wood engineering.
Anyway, the orientation of the growth rings isn't a factor in bending stresses parallel to the grain which is what I believe is the failure mode.
In this photo, the wide faces of the handle are on the top and bottom.
.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Looks pretty, but I know It won't last a week with me. My BD hammer will out last it by decades.
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