Discussion Topic |
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 22, 2014 - 04:41pm PT
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Anyone see the team on it Friday evening? Was incredible, no falls, no hesitations, leader lead the entire route. It was magical!
Proud sent Brother! Was good to see you
Peace
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Sep 22, 2014 - 04:47pm PT
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Whooooo?
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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Sep 22, 2014 - 05:03pm PT
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I had two thoughts looking at that route in my prime.
1) I could lead that
2) I will never try.
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protour
Trad climber
Concord, CA
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Sep 22, 2014 - 05:23pm PT
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I believe it was Lonnie Kauk
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Sep 22, 2014 - 05:30pm PT
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No pictures! No pictures!
Didn't happen.......
:)
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 22, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
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Anyone familiar with the BY also know about Vertigo in the Black Hills Needles. Vertigo was the 11+ run out test piece in the Needles a place full of run out test pieces. I am curious about the comparison. I think the BY is more run out but I am not that familiar. It was put up by Kevin Bein and a local crew of hardmen in 1979 I believe.Vertigo is the formation on the right of the large formation in the middle of the picture. It is kind of like a large boulder sitting on a pedestal so overhanging all the way around in the middle of the formation.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Sep 22, 2014 - 05:57pm PT
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I believe it is actually on the right of your photo . . . the two routes are not comparable due to the length of the BY.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 22, 2014 - 05:59pm PT
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You are correct I must of meant my other left. Here is a better picture
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 22, 2014 - 06:08pm PT
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What about the crux pitches? Are all the pitches on the BY as run out as the crux?
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Sep 22, 2014 - 07:05pm PT
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Vertigo may be technically more difficult but the BY contains more runout climbing.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 22, 2014 - 07:38pm PT
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Regardless I am sure that it is a proud day for the climber that does either one of them. Not that I would know.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2014 - 08:25pm PT
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The route was shot by a photographer.....don't want to rain on the party. If it's cool with the team I will post shots I have, otherwise I gotta respect the team and their effort.
Peace
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Sep 22, 2014 - 08:41pm PT
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... it was Lonnie Kauk so stok=ed
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Sep 22, 2014 - 08:53pm PT
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Jump on instagram and there is one pic up under lonniekauk.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Sep 22, 2014 - 09:19pm PT
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I like how one dude on the comment section says:
"I guess if you're used to soloing, this route wouldn't be too bad."
No, not too bad.........
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 22, 2014 - 09:39pm PT
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So cool.... Lonnie is fun to watch, a lot like JB was. So smooth, effortless and powerful all at the same time.
Mike: B&Y looks like this. The 11 is well protected, the runout 10+ is steep and the knobs fail. And it has an upper pitch of 10 something, that the Gonome tells me is really weird and hard. ..... I have no first hand knowledge of it.. I only stand at the base and look up at that baby.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Sep 22, 2014 - 09:42pm PT
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On sight says it all.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Sep 22, 2014 - 10:36pm PT
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Have not climbed the Bachar/Yerian. Have climbed Vertigo. I vote for B/Y as more serious, sustained climbing.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Sep 23, 2014 - 05:45am PT
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Mike: B&Y looks like this. The 11 is well protected, the runout 10+ is steep and the knobs fail. And it has an upper pitch of 10 something, that the Gonome tells me is really weird and hard. ..... I have no first hand knowledge of it.. I only stand at the base and look up at that baby.
Every pitch is a horror show.
runout 10+, that's funny
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Sep 23, 2014 - 06:33am PT
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Mentally vertigo when the magic is in you is sucking you ln, and up, fear is under control by the relentless clock that starts with a steep latch on the 1st hold and move very fast. The B /Y is huge in comparison and the fry ability and storied fails just relentless the second has to do the positve vibe shake dance a light rain of the dust that spindrifts and the winds swirl intimidating and long that is a whole other world although Kevin was a hero not of the same type of brain as the man JB Both gave us Classic high ball lines of incredible purity to pursue standing below both I think that Kevin would have and could have ...JB would have soloed that rig vertigo.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Sep 23, 2014 - 06:48am PT
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Totally savage. Nice send, Lonnie.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Sep 23, 2014 - 08:35am PT
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In the late '70s, I walked under that wall and said, "The day somebody climbs that is the day I give up climbing."
So don't tell me somebody climbed that rig, I like to climb too much.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Sep 23, 2014 - 08:37am PT
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can't wait till A1 bolt ladder up the thing..i would send..
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Sep 23, 2014 - 08:44am PT
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The BY is just plain baddass and anyone that has the cool
to do it is baddass in my book.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 23, 2014 - 09:09am PT
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Sep 23, 2014 - 09:18am PT
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Sweet.
Somebody help me out this SAT-style question, because I can't think of anything. What is the equivalent in some other pursuit in life?
The Bachar-Yerian is to climbing as X is to Y?
What are X and Y? Any walk of life. I can't think of one that pulls all of the fascinating characteristics that are a part of the ground-up send of the B-Y. Risk, but also the years of technique and strength building (mental and physical) required to give it a go.
Maybe something like riding Mavericks on a monster day is to surfing? Risk, technique, strength, mental control all required. What else?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 23, 2014 - 09:19am PT
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What a beautiful route.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Sep 23, 2014 - 09:26am PT
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Cheers to Lonnie. If you haven't seen it before here's a cool video of our own Gnome and Andrew Rock climbing the B&Y
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Sep 23, 2014 - 10:55am PT
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Sweet.
Somebody help me out this SAT-style question, because I can't think of anything. What is the equivalent in some other pursuit in life?
The Bachar-Yerian is to climbing as X is to Y?
What are X and Y? Any walk of life. I can't think of one that pulls all of the fascinating characteristics that are a part of the ground-up send of the B-Y. Risk, but also the years of technique and strength building (mental and physical) required to give it a go.
Maybe something like riding Mavericks on a monster day is to surfing? Risk, technique, strength, mental control all required. What else?
As you already mentioned big wave surfing comes to mind. Certain lines in skiing and/or snowboarding may also qualify.
I can't relate to surfing as I've never done it. I have skied some very steep lines though. It's never been a relevant comparison for me because even if you drop a 55-60 degree chute it's over relatively quickly and you aren't thinking much, just reacting. On the BY you are presented with endless opportunities to consider each move and the looming consequence if you blow it.
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bpope
climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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Sep 23, 2014 - 11:40am PT
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more bachar/yerian stoke from a few years back, hayden kennedy and ivo ninov: http://vimeo.com/6102968
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Sep 23, 2014 - 12:33pm PT
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When we were getting ready to climb it Waugh said that you needed to plan on spending 45 minutes to lead the second pitch. Think about holding just past vertical knobs for 45 minutes without a break...
In fact both Andrew and I both did the second pitch in that 45 minutes so we were well prepared.
The first pitch is the hardest but it is well protected at the crux. The 3rd pitch is also very run and then the fifth pitch has a 5.9 no-hands slab standup with your last protection about 50 feet below you. This surprised and scared both of us.
And if you didn't climb all 5 pitches you didn't do the B&Y!
And congrats Lonnie. I'm sure he cruised.
As an FYI, Andrew Rock spent a few sessions working on Peace, ground up, this summer. Did the whole thing but hasn't put the two halves together clean yet. I was so proud to see him with no stick clip and no top rope, just climbing!
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Sep 23, 2014 - 12:50pm PT
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Is that the way he normally "climbs"
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2014 - 12:57pm PT
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Well since the climber has been identified, I will say his only hesitations were at the overhang/horizontal crack down low on the first pitch and right below the belay bolts first pitch at the short crack section. Second pitch went smooth, deliberate with authority....don't think it took him much time to put it away. The lighting was gorgeous....he only had 2 hours at best to finish the whole climb due to sunset. He started at 5:00 and was done with the second pitch at 6:15.
Peace
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Sep 23, 2014 - 01:03pm PT
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I will say his only hesitations were at the overhang/horizontal crack down low on the first pitch and right below the belay bolts first pitch at the short crack section.
The move at the flake/crack up high on the first pitch isn't that hard, but it is a bit awkward. Despite having climbed p1 a total of 7 times that move always gave me pause.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 23, 2014 - 01:25pm PT
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Is that the way he normally "climbs"
I do not think he even owns a stick..... to clip with.
Andrew normally "climbs" with no falls and a big desire to on-site everything.
hanging is not in his bag of tricks.
And to Mike a ...... what is the "hardest" climb in the Needles? (SD)
not to drift off topic but Im curious.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 23, 2014 - 01:35pm PT
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I think the hardest ground up effort in the Needles is in the 5.13(for sure quite a few 12+) range, but I think there are a few 5.14 sport routes spread throughout the Black Hills.
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MP
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Sep 23, 2014 - 03:34pm PT
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There was a BY thread a while ago on recent attempts and how many leads it has seen over the years. I'm curious if anyone knows if Ron Kauk did it back in the day?
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2014 - 05:29pm PT
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Don't think Ronnie ever lead it. I think he was working it a few years back, but I'm not sure whether he's done the whole route.
Peace
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2014 - 06:54pm PT
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I got a bunch more but I shot them in vertical frame and when I try to upload on ST it puts the image in horizonal frame. Help??
Peace
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Sep 23, 2014 - 07:25pm PT
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Thanks for sharing this Ron.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2014 - 07:25pm PT
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Yeah if I only knew what you were talking about! I got as much computer skills as climbing skills!
Peace
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Sep 23, 2014 - 07:30pm PT
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nice picture man!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 23, 2014 - 07:31pm PT
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I had that problem when I was posting some pictures as well. If you open them on your computer, and take each picture and rotate it 360 degrees so that it is back at the proper orientation, then save it, it should post up properly.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2014 - 07:52pm PT
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Many thanks Pyro!! If I load up the rest will you flip em? I had a great seat for the show
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Sep 23, 2014 - 08:19pm PT
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God dang, cool feature/ sequence.
Nice photo.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Sep 24, 2014 - 05:12am PT
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sure thing ron! post em up and ill flip em for u!
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nah000
climber
canuckistan
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Sep 24, 2014 - 05:16am PT
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i liked le-bruce's question [regarding the b/y is to climbing as x is to y] because it lays bare part of what make our game so unique.
at first i couldn't come up with anything that was really analogous [initially, the closest i got is the bachar/yerian is to climbing as anal is to sex - ha!]
for me, this is because most other sports, arts, thinking disciplines, etc. don't leave direct objective remnants of our forebearers individuated paths that anyone can go and apply themselves to... does anybody go climb the sea of vapours with the exact same ice conditions as josephson and hendricks... does anyone have the opportunity to ski the same chute with the same conditions as the first descensionists... does a baseball hitter play against the same pitchers as 100 years ago...
on the other hand it's also not really analogous to a shot putter being able to use the same shot put as 50 years ago either... in that case there is nothing really unique required of the participant... they can either do it or not... there are almost no questions of style or artistry.
and on the other other hand what makes a science equation or piece of art great and a breakthrough isn't just pure difficulty... repainting a van gogh or being able to apply e=mc^2 isn't really relevant as compared with the original breakthrough... in those cases the original insight or advancement was the hurdle, and once that path was forged, following in the footsteps of that breakthrough isn't even remotely as difficult.
to me, the beauty about the bachar/yerian [and rock climbing in general] is that the route is right there in virtually the exact same state as it was when it was first climbed. there is essentially no cost to admission, no lengthy proving to former masters before one can gain access, just a rock that anyone can walk to the base of and start climbing... and once you start climbing you either succeed or you fail... and how one climbs it is as important as just climbing it... even if you "succeed" you can do it with 14000 mini traxion sessions and an elvis leg or you can walk up and do it on sight without using any of the bolts and one up even an old master like bachar himself...
how democratically beautiful is that? and how undemocratically beautiful is that?
and what a legacy to leave behind you...
i did finally come up with one though: the bachar/yerian is to climbing as a rachmoninoff piece is to piano playing [somebody with more music knowledge can figure out which exact piece]...
but so far it's the only direct analogy i can think of that really makes sense to me...
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Sep 24, 2014 - 05:24am PT
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Don't think Ronnie ever lead it. I think he was working it a few years back, but I'm not sure whether he's done the whole route.
Peace
I have trouble imagining someone with Ron Kauk's skillset needing to work the BY.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Sep 24, 2014 - 05:35am PT
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...or you can walk up and do it on sight without using any of the bolts and one upping even an old master like bachar himself...
That did not happen. Ullrich led it twice using the bolts before his "tie off" attempt.
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nah000
climber
canuckistan
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Sep 24, 2014 - 05:38am PT
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Jon Clark wrote: "That did not happen. Ullrich led it twice using the bolts before his "tie off" attempt."
keywords in my sentence are "you can"...
ie. i'm aware it hasn't happened... yet.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Sep 26, 2014 - 06:07am PT
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Many thanks Pyro!! If I load up the rest will you flip em? I had a great seat for the show
I would really like to see any additional shots you have.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 26, 2014 - 06:59am PT
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for me, this is because most other sports, arts, thinking disciplines, etc. don't leave direct objective remnants of our forebearers individuated paths that anyone can go and apply themselves to... does anybody go climb the sea of vapours with the exact same ice conditions as josephson and hendricks... does anyone have the opportunity to ski the same chute with the same conditions as the first descensionists... does a baseball hitter play against the same pitchers as 100 years ago...
Nahooo .... excellent point about climbing, boiled down to a coherent statement.
Ron... anymore photos?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 26, 2014 - 11:17am PT
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I wish you hadn't brought Baseball in to it.
Anybody that has made it to the pro level has seen hundreds of different Pitchers in their career, & most likely any & every pitch that has ever been thrown.
Baseball changes very slowly.
Climbs change. things break. Gear gets better.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
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Sep 26, 2014 - 12:26pm PT
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No doubt an intensely scary route. But no one has repeated Derek Hersey's triple solo on the Diamond.
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A-Train
climber
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Sep 26, 2014 - 02:26pm PT
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Nobody else is Derek Heresy though...
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Sep 26, 2014 - 02:31pm PT
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That runout is wicked
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Sep 27, 2014 - 10:06am PT
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This is inspiring
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hagerty
Social climber
A Sandy Area South of a Salty Lake
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Sep 27, 2014 - 10:11am PT
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What does Derek Hersey's triple solo on the Diamond have to do with the B/Y?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 12, 2015 - 11:19pm PT
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The Chief
climber
Down the hill & across the Valley from Shetville
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Sep 13, 2015 - 07:10am PT
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Hey I know that Little Lizard faced guy. Reminds me tons of my last A/C Handler on the "Prise" who was also a Way Bad to the Bone dude! We called him, "Samsonite".
Very nice post. And well done Jan. As I recall, that was a life dream of yours.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Feb 24, 2016 - 03:53pm PT
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bump
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 24, 2016 - 04:22pm PT
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That video is awesome, makes me want to get better at the knob pulling sh#t and try it. As a climb which sort of defines what the meaning of runout is, it makes me curious...not sure if that is a good or a bad thing.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2016 - 05:00pm PT
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Watched Lonnie Kauk on it a couple years back.....it was magical to see someone so smooth, so clean, so positive on it. It was a blessed day to watch him!
Peace
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Feb 24, 2016 - 08:46pm PT
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Well done
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| Messages 1 - 68 of total 68 in this topic |
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