Discussion Topic |
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 21, 2014 - 07:33pm PT
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Who is/was the best North American Climber of the last 50 years?
A huge question, I know, but one well worth the asking. Just a name is OK, but a few reasons to back it up is always preferable.
PLEASE NOTE: I will give this thread ample time to breath, it will fail or flourish on it's own merits.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Sep 21, 2014 - 07:35pm PT
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Tough one. How do you measure it?
All around.. Once was Alex Lowe before him was Jeff Lowe.
Now...? That person is now for sure. But who?
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Sep 21, 2014 - 07:36pm PT
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The guy from Cliffhanger
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2014 - 07:41pm PT
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My vote goes to George Lowe. He's not only proved himself adept on all types of terrain, his 1st ascent routes are truly worthy of that overused term: landmark.
North Face, Alberta
North Face, North Twin
Infinite Spur, Foraker
The spirited attempt on the North Ridge of Latok 1
Just to name a few.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2014 - 07:43pm PT
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Hey climbski2, you can measure it any way you like, it's your choice.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2014 - 07:52pm PT
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I think he was only 69, but he and Donini certainly pushed the most years up that one!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 21, 2014 - 08:02pm PT
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best of all time? since we haven't gotten to the end of time this might be a bit premature..
but so far:
Jim Bridwell should be in consideration... impressive FA list....
Chris Jones has an amazing resume and extracurriculars
Jeff Lowe also amazing
Fred Becky on just being around so long... how many Becky Routes are there?
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Sep 21, 2014 - 08:09pm PT
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Tobin Sorenson certainly was one of the best all-arounders, especially for his gear era . . . doesn't have the high altitude cred though.
Charlie Fowler certainly proved in his own subtle way to be one of the top "journeyman" climbers, having mastered every aspect of climbing/mountaineering . . . a resume possibly unparalleled by a NA.
Jim Bridwell deserves all the credit we can bestow . . . the definition of a hard man.
All the Lowes are there as well, related or not.
Too many more not mentioned . . .
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Sep 21, 2014 - 08:24pm PT
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Not having ever climbed with the guy , i'd say Locker ...He's still alive , avoids ice , and always looks stoked about climbing...
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Sep 21, 2014 - 08:29pm PT
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I appreciate you starting a climbing topic. But this is an unanswerable and meaningless question. Thanks for trying.
Edited to say the above was meant humourously/ironically - to anticipate and encapsulate the comments I was sure were to come. Sometime my deadpan humor gets lost in the writing.
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Q- Ball
Mountain climber
where the wind always blows
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Sep 21, 2014 - 08:29pm PT
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Bob Skinner, a selfish but true reply.
He has been from el cap to everest. Pioneered routes in the valley.
My father ran into Chouinard a year ago. He asked if he knew Bob. Yvon said, yep, he was one crazy Son of a B%tch.
Bob was in the valley in the 1950's, then went home to Wyoming.
His son, Todd Skinner, is worthy of a mention.
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 21, 2014 - 08:33pm PT
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Even a common ant is easily considered the best North American Climber of all Time .....
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Sep 21, 2014 - 09:25pm PT
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Lizard vs. Ant
TITAN VS. TITAN
Olympus is on fire tonight!
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Sep 21, 2014 - 09:32pm PT
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These threads are always a lot of fun because there isn't one correct answer. Having said that, if you pick a guy named Lowe (George, Jeff or Alex) you would probably be in good company on any adventure you chose to undertake.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
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Sep 21, 2014 - 09:38pm PT
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Even a common ant is easily considered the best North American Climber of all Time .....
I can dig it, but then who was second best? All the way down?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Sep 21, 2014 - 09:38pm PT
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Birds climb too Tami..
Check out the technique.. always 2 points of contact!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Sep 21, 2014 - 09:42pm PT
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Norman Clyde for all his FAs of some big mountains
Peter Croft for his FAs and being a climber most people would want to be .
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 21, 2014 - 11:07pm PT
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Bird is the word. So far.
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Concerned citizen
Big Wall climber
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Sep 22, 2014 - 05:50am PT
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My vote goes to George Lowe. Add the East Face of Everest with the Lowe Buttress to his list of first ascents.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Sep 22, 2014 - 06:50am PT
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Fred Beckey cannot be overlooked
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Sep 22, 2014 - 07:12am PT
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I must throw Donini into this blender as well.
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JerryA
Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
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Sep 22, 2014 - 08:11am PT
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Viesturs
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Sep 22, 2014 - 08:17am PT
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The one having the most fun. Duh.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 22, 2014 - 08:22am PT
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Well, by The Larry's metric you're surely in the running if all the rumors are true.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 22, 2014 - 08:24am PT
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John Gill should be in the mix. Seemed to take large leaps in front of everyone else.
Could you imagine if Honnold started ice climbing?
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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Sep 22, 2014 - 09:32am PT
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if what's meant by "best" is the one who's climbed the hardest then probably Chris Sharma. Otherwise it is whoever fits one's subjective definition of the best
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Sep 22, 2014 - 10:08am PT
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um I was amazed ya'll weighed in and that no one said
..........................!!!!!!!!!! LYNN...e
scwralled in ugly white house paint on Diamond Hill Road is the only other place I ever professed
that alone tome makes her ............THE BEST
(thanx for the ride)
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Sep 22, 2014 - 10:10am PT
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Right now it is still Sharma. Ondra is now surpassing him as the best in the world, after a very long period of being top dog.
That is amazing. The number of climbers out there has gone up by a factor of 50, and the guy is the best rock climber in the world. A much bigger challenge than in the old days.
All sports are like that. They advance through time.
It isn't even close.
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steve shea
climber
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Sep 22, 2014 - 10:22am PT
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Best in the world? Jerzy KuKuczka. New routes on 8000m mountains in winter. Not anyone, well maybe Voytek, has come close.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 22, 2014 - 10:33am PT
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Such a no-brainer!
Phylp, of course!
Home-grown, attitude and level of commitment, what's not to appreciate?
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2456499&msg=2456499#msg2456499
Is my deadpan humor getting in the way?
Gee, I hope so.
And if you realize that, then Jim Bridwell is the only choice left.
Home-grown, attitude and level of commitment, what's not to emulate?
Oh, yeah, he's no saint. I forgot.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 22, 2014 - 10:35am PT
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For America it probably is Lynn Hill.
She sent the rig nobody else could.
Then she did it in a day.
Boss.
2 votes is consensus around here right?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sep 22, 2014 - 12:31pm PT
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Although there's no one answer, Robbins belongs in the "all time" discussion, even if the NA Wall was now 50 years ago. He not only dominated American rockclimbing, he and Gary Hemming introduced Yosemite methods to the Alps.
John
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clode
Trad climber
portland, or
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Sep 22, 2014 - 12:33pm PT
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Without a doubt is't got to be Reinhold Messner. Oh, you said North America. Ed V.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Sep 22, 2014 - 12:37pm PT
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Indeed. Anybody who solos Ahab, does FAs of major Yosemite walls, has alpine skills, has done major first descents, and wears funny glasses; well they gotta be in the discussion!
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Sep 22, 2014 - 02:33pm PT
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George Lowe was born in NZ.
Becky is the most prolific in terms of sheer number of climbs.
Sharma is the best in terms of number grades.
Sean McColl is the best in terms of killing it on American Ninja Warrior.
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Sep 22, 2014 - 03:17pm PT
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Oh.. forgot about Tommy Caldwell. All round badass.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Sep 22, 2014 - 03:35pm PT
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Harding or Kauk.
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Chippychopperone
Social climber
SLC, UT
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Sep 22, 2014 - 04:14pm PT
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I didn't have time to read the whole post so forgive me if this has already been mentioned.
I vote Brian McCray. Find another North American climber that climbed at the level he did while being employed. I wonder if Alex H could climb the sick aid that Brian climbed? I wonder if Beyer could repeated Brian's hard 5.13s? Think about it.
tda
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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Sep 22, 2014 - 04:17pm PT
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Fritz
Two generations ahead of his time.
Still a badass in his 70's ( climbing 5.10)
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Sep 22, 2014 - 04:21pm PT
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Croft
/thread
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Sep 22, 2014 - 04:31pm PT
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clode. Oh, you said North America. Ed V.
We're talking about climbing not slogging. But yeah Ed can slog. Quite the mtn biker too.
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Sep 22, 2014 - 04:33pm PT
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north american born strikes out beckey, fritz, and a few others.
those who speak of only rock routes need to quiet down. There is a lot more out there than just warm weather rock stuff.
I think the scale is leaning towards a lowe.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 22, 2014 - 04:44pm PT
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This "The best climber is the one having he most fun" has to stop. Consider the source, his idea of fun might be different.
Didn't he actually say that? It's like fun only different.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 22, 2014 - 05:13pm PT
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The best ones keep going when it aint fun!!!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Sep 22, 2014 - 05:17pm PT
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Best at what?
Has "all Time" passed?
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Sep 22, 2014 - 05:55pm PT
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Salathe?
Harding?
Roskelly?
Bachar?
Alex Lowe
Mike Libecki is definitely having the most fun.
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OR
Trad climber
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Sep 22, 2014 - 07:02pm PT
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Cedar Wright claims it's himself, seriously.
HAHha thats kinda funny.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 22, 2014 - 07:30pm PT
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Messner. Tobin. Bridwell. Lowe. All contenders for all-around masters.
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docsavage
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Sep 22, 2014 - 09:27pm PT
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Layton Kor ... duh!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Sep 22, 2014 - 09:49pm PT
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Bachar.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Sep 22, 2014 - 10:12pm PT
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This is a serious question to the OP: why do you want to know?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 22, 2014 - 10:15pm PT
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I assume the OP is asking who was the best all-rounder? If so, the list gets pretty small, and includes at least two of the original Stonemasters.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 22, 2014 - 10:21pm PT
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Fritz Weissner comes to mind...
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 22, 2014 - 10:26pm PT
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Yeah ....
You have to be very good in all the different disciplines.
If you are only a sunny day climber then your not even in the ball park yet.
You have to be a total bad ass m'fuker in all the disciplines.
But then again there's individuals who don't even do anything physical that exceed any of the above.
It's not what you do it's what you are .......
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 22, 2014 - 10:35pm PT
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That's why I have to go with Norman Clyde
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 22, 2014 - 10:44pm PT
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Who would win in a fight, bat man or Godzilla?
Well, any boxing or MMA fans might remember the defunct conversation of who is the best "pound for pound" fighter - on an even playing feild of weight and size, whose skill is the strongest? Better yet, who is the best pound for pound of all time?
Obviously sport progression isn't exactly linear - techniques and tools available today were not avaiable then, and I don't believe in penalizing legends due to factors outside of their control (5.13 face in EBs - is that really 5.13 anymore?)
To lay this out correctly we need to set some standards to what might make the BEST climber.
SOME CRITERIA
Best:
-Legacy of Accomplishments
-Level of Competition
-Skill disparity over peers.
With this I can say that we can break climbing up into Era's - whoever was the best in the era was the best, end of story. Comparing the era, then, becomes the crux.
I present to you the best NORTH AMERICAN climber in each era, based off booze and wikipedia searches.
Golden age (50's to early/mid 60's) - JOHN GILL
Let's not pretend that climbing several number grades above anyone on Earth isn't an accomplishment. Establishing multiple V5-8 routes when Sock Hops were still a thing. Free solo 5.10+ for fun. Ripper Traverse. Thimble. Who we kidding....
The Hippies (Mid 60's to Stonemasters)
I collectively put this group together, as so much growth and tech came out after Salathe and Chouinard that progression took a sharp left turn. In the terms of ROCK CLIMBING - as in WHO HAD THE BEST SKILLS AT GETTING UP ROCK - no one's resume touched Royals. While some might be a bit faster or more technical (Sacherer) Royal pushed the envelope of what "climbing" meant, and for a decade held the gold standard. Some people in Colorado did some cool stuff, but from the Northwest Face to Salathe Wall to NA wall the biggest baddest sh#t was done by the master, up until...
The Stonemasters (Early 70's to cocaine and Lycra)
John Bachar. I think its difficult to say what exactly John could have accomplished had he gone the well-trodden path - he was in a league of his own, for better or for worse, as no one else was training and flailing like he did FOR what he did. Before John training was rudamentary and basic, and though many (Ament and Gill for example) long trained specifically for climbing, after our media darling Bachar it became the rule rather than the exception. I give Bachar the nod - after all, who followed him?
The Era That Time Forgot (Cocaine to Kurt Cobaine)
From the early 80's to mid 90's I have to say that TWO climbers from the U.S. stood above the rest and defined what American climbing would look like, and as there is a bit of an age gap and overlap I'll put them together - Coz and Leavitt. While Coz threw down the bigger numbers and defined American-style hard face, Leavitt was one of the most prolific contributors to 5.14 and southwest sport climbing, putting crags like Clark and the VRG on the map. Hard trad as well, a must for anyone to be considered on this list.
The Internet Era (cancelling of Seinfeld to the invention of Cell Phones)
At some point we have to acknowledge the Sharm. Chris sharma was one of the only americans to set precidents on the world stage in the last 30 years - while our accomplishments were uniquely "American" before, we went and beat the Euro's on their own turf with a good looking surfer kid with iron tendons. To put anyone above Chris before 2006 or 7 would be nuts. If not for...
The modern Era and Beyond
Tommy Caldwell. No one does, is doing, or likely will do, what he does, every day. Read his story about the Dihedral Wall. Watch "two in a day." Meet 5.14 sport climbers and v14 boulderers and ask them how often they spend slaving on a big wall. TC Epitomizes what it means to be a North American Rock Climber - Well rounded, stoic, accomplished, gritty. The MF'er eats his gawddamn wheaties.
So, there we have it. Each era based off my wine-induced thoughts. To rank them....
6. John Bachar
5. Scott Cozgrove/Randy Leavitt (I love them both so much <3)
4. Royal Robbins
3. Chris Sharma
2. Tommy Caldwell
1. Gill
Scott and Randy were more vulnerable in their approaches and goals, so they get an edge over The Legend Bachar. Royal was the king in a time when the game was a bit different, yet sheer difficulty and legacy/repeatability of his accomplishments might be pretty damn close to Sharma - I give sharma an edge over Royal for his dedication to the physical aspect of progression.
Finally the top two - and it might be a tie. The best modern and the biggest legend. I feel that Gill is our Bruce Lee and Tommy is our Michael Jordan. One is difficult to put into context, though you know there is magic about him... the other you can hook up to a geiger counter and measure his radness right this minute as he's cranking one-arms in his garage.
F*#k. climbing is freaking awesome.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Sep 22, 2014 - 11:29pm PT
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Jay Smith should be on this list.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 22, 2014 - 11:35pm PT
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I could easily train a baboon to be a professional sport climber who cranks 5.15d
yes but can you add interesting content to this website?
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Sep 22, 2014 - 11:40pm PT
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For myself, the obvious choice is Royal.
There must be some anonymous someone else though.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 23, 2014 - 12:00am PT
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Proposed: Robbins.
Defend your thesis, Evel. Visual aids are allowed and indeed encouraged.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 23, 2014 - 12:24am PT
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I've never rated a photo before on Supertopo, but I just rated Evel's profile picture 5. Whatever that's worth.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Sep 23, 2014 - 12:53am PT
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Ditka!
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2014 - 02:26am PT
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Has anyone mentioned Barry Blanchard?
He's got to be in the mix.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Sep 23, 2014 - 03:32am PT
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Okay I can not believe that this thread has such a un flamed legs
following the way back
Fritz Weissner but I knew him shared a rope and milk shakes
He talked of Hudson ,Harlin, and J Gill but that was only his sphere of knowledge at the end of his life Gullitch and kauk and John Bragg S Wunsch. John Stannard and the western boys
So many in obscurity M Head?? Freaks of nature do they count ?alone at devils lake what
Dave Freida survived was not accomplished again
Scott Franklin or R Romano J Gruenberg the Russ es Raffa and Clune Jordan Mills Al diamond all had great sends in the Gunks in the west R Harrison D Osman ?????
the number would be ?? Uncountable
If it is a real question ??
The best climber is someone who just pushed his limit past 5.7 or 8
to IT All Clicking into place to 11 or 12
his smile his honest embrace of air as it passes through his lungs is the greatest at that moment
......just after this trash DMT says it very well in a lucid post
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Sep 23, 2014 - 03:55am PT
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I like how GDavis is thinking though the fault in his logic is that the list only includes rock specific climbers mostly...
Throw in snow and ice, altitude, remoteness...etc and it becomes a different set of players I'm thinking.
Include these and the "pre-Golden age" then who would the list include?
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TwistedCrank
climber
Released into general population, Idaho
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Sep 23, 2014 - 06:25am PT
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De bumper spam
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Sep 23, 2014 - 06:50am PT
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Bolton Brown. With no clue, no technique, no equipment he blazed a trail in 5th class Sierra ascents.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Sep 23, 2014 - 07:38am PT
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Nice post GDavis (previous page) Well thought out.
Jeff Lowe - good
Donini - better?
Conrad - even better?
Alex Lowe - Best
That Mike Libecki though, he was in DC hanging out at the National Geographic Society working out the details of his next goof-ball expedition. That guy is having some serious fun.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Sep 23, 2014 - 07:52am PT
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Who would win in a fight, bat man or Godzilla?
Woodward vs. Largo?
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Sep 23, 2014 - 08:24am PT
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What is the criteria?
Technical expertise?
Vision?
I would say the best people are the visionaries, who see something others don't. After they do their thing it is obvious to everyone. Before, only they can see it.
Bridwell, George and Jeff Lowe would be big contenders but it is impossible to reduce it to one person.
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steve shea
climber
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Sep 23, 2014 - 08:26am PT
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It is pretty funny that some think high mountains, say 6000m and above, only involve a slog. I think Dave Cheesmond should at least get an honorable mention., Most of the good alpinists were at one time good on rock and ice. They broke out of the gymnasiums like Yosemite to take on different challenges. Tobin was a true 'natural'. Really gifted. But there were many who followed alpine climbing with the skills learned in Yosemite and elsewhere and took their game to altitude. Anker stands out. He brought it to high altitude sans O's.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 23, 2014 - 08:32am PT
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Just remember that Walter Bonatti said the great climbers die in their rocking chairs.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 23, 2014 - 08:54am PT
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Fritz, Jeff, Reinhold and Tom.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Sep 23, 2014 - 09:00am PT
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No Steve I was just saying Ed V is more of a world class slogger than climber. What cutting edge climbs has he put up. Great guy. Great athlete but not a cutting edge climber.
Nobody's mentioned Dick Bass.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 23, 2014 - 09:28am PT
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Will Gadd and some of those other dudes in Cananda are doing some crazy stuff on "ice"
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Sep 23, 2014 - 09:35am PT
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I've never rated a photo before on Supertopo, but I just rated Evel's profile picture 5. Whatever that's worth.
Thanks G.
bvb- Not much of a defense here. I just happen to think RR is a bada$$ mofo, nawmean?
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 23, 2014 - 09:37am PT
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Snow climbing?
Hahahahahaha! We said best Climber, guys. C'mon quit acting silly. We'll do best Hiker another day.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Sep 23, 2014 - 09:47am PT
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I know guys who.climb 5.13 to 5.14, have done hard walls, etc. and climb wicked ice and mixed all winter. They can climb nigh anything.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Sep 23, 2014 - 09:53am PT
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Who was the best at making it look, sound, and seem cooler than anyone other climber?
JOHN LONG!
:)
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Sep 23, 2014 - 09:56am PT
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Hey BASE, Sounds like you're talking about Mikey Shaffer. Or Hayden Kennedy.
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Mitja
Trad climber
Tahoma, CA
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Sep 23, 2014 - 10:02am PT
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Warren Harding.
He definitely had the most fun and was doing it when it wasn't main stream!
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Trad-Monkey
Trad climber
SF, CA
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Sep 23, 2014 - 10:08am PT
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LYNN HILL obviously!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Sep 23, 2014 - 10:28am PT
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Interesting thoughts...
I kind of agree that they have to have lived. That shortens the list a fair bit.
All arounders. Great on ice, snow, rock. Maybe all at once (!). New routes on hard peaks and in the greater ranges.
Here's my short list without much thought or research:
Jeff Lowe
George Lowe
Mark Richey
Steve Swenson
http://www.climbing.com/climber/steve-swenson/
http://www.markrichey.com/who_we_are/mountaineering.cfm
Who's coming down the pike? See who's doing the hardest new routes on the world stage...maybe the Piolets d'Or nominees from North America...
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Psilocyborg
climber
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Sep 23, 2014 - 10:42am PT
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To bad you are all too stupid to know that I am the best climber of all time
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Crack-N-Up
Social climber
South of the Mason Dixon line
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Sep 23, 2014 - 10:46am PT
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The headline makes no mention of mixed climbing or categories. If categories, time periods then it is easier. The most technically difficult climbing is free climbing, then maybe mountaineering. Soloing is harder than rope climbing, therefore Honnold hands down.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Sep 23, 2014 - 10:49am PT
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Brian, I have to agree the Richie is good. Climbs some sick mixed routes for fun there in NH in the winter.
And if you think East Coast, though I don't know why one would want to, that geek, Freddie Wilkinson, he does some bad azz sh#t. IE; Moose Traverse
Freddie also climbs with Lebecki so, there is some fun there.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Sep 23, 2014 - 10:59am PT
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Gill, Thor, Samson...
Jul 11, 2014 - 03:50pm PT
Gill was a mythical creature, made up by the climbing gods, so they could have a deity to worship like us mortals.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 23, 2014 - 11:01am PT
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Avery,
What is the best shoe of all time?
Not climbing shoe. Just shoe.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Sep 23, 2014 - 11:08am PT
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Clogs.
Agree?
Yes or no answers only.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Sep 23, 2014 - 11:10am PT
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No.
Reebok pumps.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Sep 23, 2014 - 11:13am PT
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Oh, by the way, this is a very relevant thread. The winners on this list are most qualified to be sponsored climbers.
There could be a thread: Who is sponsored? Should be? Should not?
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Rosamond
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Sep 23, 2014 - 11:31am PT
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Fred Becky. How many of the other climbers listed herein have done the hummingbird ridge?
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Sep 23, 2014 - 11:56am PT
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Another vote for Honnold because soloing is about the purest form of climbing one can do. He is apparently far from being done blowing the doors off what is possible.
In the end, being the best at anything seem to be just a moment in time.
I don't know if anyone mentioned him yet, but in his day Henry Barber was arguably one of the best.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Sep 23, 2014 - 12:05pm PT
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What is the best shoe of all time?
Not climbing shoe. Just shoe.
BK's bitchez
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 23, 2014 - 12:34pm PT
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Fred Becky. How many of the other climbers listed herein have done the hummingbird ridge?
Fred is a good candidate for the best all-round climbing record, but he didn't do the Hummingbird Ridge.
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RasVegas
Trad climber
Goodyear
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Sep 23, 2014 - 01:16pm PT
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"The guy from Cliffhanger". Pure genius! LMAO!!! Just peed my pants. Oh wait a minute...that's not because I'm laughing!
This is a tough question fo sho.
Personally, I'm thinkin a good way to do it would be by "decade" or similar. Climbing has changed so freakin much just in 40/50 years!
70's? 80's? 90'?, 2000's so far?
Stay safe y'all!
Peace
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Sep 23, 2014 - 07:07pm PT
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Kinda surprised nobody has mentioned Steve House. If anyone has changed the modern alpine game it would him. I've heard he's pretty good on rock, too.
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Cruiser
Mountain climber
Cody
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Sep 23, 2014 - 07:34pm PT
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Sorry Fellow Climbers but Fred Becky takes the Cake followed by the Lowe Klan. Having climbed with most of them and the respect they hold for one another is amazing. Let's count Becky's and the Lowe's first ascents and see who ends up on top.
Cheers,
Kirt Cozzens
Cody, Wyoming
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Sep 23, 2014 - 07:36pm PT
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Bean Bowers
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2014 - 08:00pm PT
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Your absolutely right wbw, I'd completely forgotten about Steve House.
That's unforgivable!
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
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Sep 23, 2014 - 08:03pm PT
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All of time isn't over
So, obviously "Who is the best North American Climber of all Time? (through September, 2014)"
Uh, is that born in North America? Climbing in North America? And (with advance apologies to Tami, Big Mike and the Squamish thread), is Canada part of North America?
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Sep 23, 2014 - 10:23pm PT
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the 'best climbers' would have little or no incentive to reveal themselves to the 'climbing community'
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Sep 24, 2014 - 07:15am PT
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^^^
No reason except sponsorship.
----------------
"The guy from Cliffhanger".
Wolfgang Gullich (Germany) one of the best climbers ever.
&
Ron Kauk, not mentioned much here but a damn good climber.
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SammO
Social climber
Ohio
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Sep 24, 2014 - 11:55am PT
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This is somehow typical, and a perfect metaphor for the majority of ST threadposts. Toss out a ridiculously oversimplified question, in pseudoinnocence, using ONE 4-letter word, "Best", as the delimiting measure, without even offering elaboration or qualifiers yourself, knowing that the rubes are going to eat each other up in the ensuing debate.
First, BEST is not even a worthy choice for any rating, because it implies so many ambiguous qualities. Greg Mortenson would have been a contender, except for the controversies, because BEST suggests goodness, ie doing good, not merely satisfying some arbitrary yardstick which the OP did not even include.
Why did you not ask "Who's your favorite NA climber"?
"Best" just turns it all into yet another pissing contest, something ST certainly has overdosed on already.
Best (as measured by absolute rock difficulty grades, by subjective degree of commitment, length of climb, career length, breadth of overall experience, by only first ascent credentials, most philosophically relevant over the longest time frame, on and on...)
Climber (interpreted to mean all-around, purely rock, excluding aid, excluding ice, including mountains above 8000m, etc...)
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Sep 24, 2014 - 12:06pm PT
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This guy.
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eagle
Trad climber
new paltz, ny
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Sep 24, 2014 - 01:01pm PT
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WHAT A STUPID THREAD
EVERY NAME IS A ROUTE NAME
ANYONE WHO DECIDES TO CLIMB IS THE BEST CLIMBER...LIKE DUH
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 24, 2014 - 01:38pm PT
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Bump spam
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Trusty Rusty
climber
Tahoe Area
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Sep 25, 2014 - 12:52pm PT
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Unquestionably. . . .
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sep 25, 2014 - 01:22pm PT
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I think this question deserves several options. Alpine climber, first ascent addict, one who climbs the hardest technical routes, can do the hardest moves, can do hardest moves on gear, best aid climber, best mixed/ice climber...
I think Fred Beckey takes the cake for the most prolific climber. He is simply the most hooked climber I can imagine. I am obsessed with climbing, but this guy has been obsessed forever. Still going at 90+. It is incredible. He was never pulling 5.12, but his desire to CLIMB ANYTHING big and inspiring is freaking impresive.
What Honnold does with his free solos, Sharma does with his strength/technique and what Caldwell does free climbing the walls is pretty damn hard to top, or comprehend.
When it comes to big peaks and technical climbs in major ranges, it is complicated. Climbs we know best, may not be anywhere close to being the hardest that were done. Conditions conditions and luck is a major factor.
Whatever you choose, I take the cake for the hardest sprayin internet wanker! :)
PS: Actually micronut and pellucid wombat are tough too. One pre sprays about his plans two years in advance and the other makes a guidebook worthy trip report for every II 4th class route out there.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Sep 25, 2014 - 01:38pm PT
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The best will be created in a lab. Combine the select, highest quality atributes of the 3 Astroman first free ascentionist's DNA for example. Code name Johnny-Long-Kauk, street name Alex?
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John Ely
Trad climber
DC
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Sep 25, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
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Mt Waddington and a few hundred feet below the summit of K2, and routes all over North America. Fritz Wiessner.
Runners up: Robbins, Kor, Hill (best female climber of all time?). Allen Steck? Steve House?
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Sep 25, 2014 - 06:00pm PT
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I always chalk up while standing in my aiders . . . is he checking out those holds to the right or just looking at the camera?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 25, 2014 - 06:30pm PT
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How is Weissner a north american climber? Are the Huber Brothers in too?
Weissner was born in Germany, but he came to the US in his late 20s. He lived in the USA after that and became an American citizen.
(Fred Beckey was born in Germany, too).
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Sep 25, 2014 - 06:53pm PT
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Notable climbs
First Ascents
Rakekniven, Antarctica, 1997
Great Sail Peak, Baffin Island, 1998
New Routes
Mount Hunter's Moonflower Buttress, Alaska
Kwangde Nup, Nepal, 1989
Kusum Kanguru, Nepal, 1990
Northwest Chimney, Grand Teton, Wyoming, 1991
Peak 4810, Ak-Su region, Kyrgyzstan, 1995
Great Trango Tower, Pakistan, 1999, NW face, new route
Other Climbs
Matterhorn (Alps, Switzerland)
K2, Pakistan, China, 1986
Mount Everest, South Col Route, Nepal, 1990 and 1993 (attempt of its Kangshung Face in 1994)
Gasherbrum IV, Pakistan, 1992
Khan Tengri, Kyrgyzstan (August 1993), solo ascent in 10 hours and 8 minutes (broke the former speed climbing record by four hours)
Aconcagua, Argentina, 1993 and 1994
Annapurna, Nepal, 1996
Mount Rundle, Canadian Rockies, spring 1996, "Troubled Dreams", first free ascent of one of the most difficult mixed climbs in the Canadian Rockies.
Skiing
First Descents
Hellmouth Couloir, Alex Lowe Peak (formerly Peak 10,031), Montana, 1997
Northwest Couloir, Middle Teton, Wyoming, 1992
Enclosure Couloir, Grand Teton, Wyoming, 1994
References and notesEdit
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sep 25, 2014 - 07:35pm PT
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Would be hard to argue with Alex Lowe as an all around the best.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 25, 2014 - 07:58pm PT
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Paul Robinson & Daniel woods can hang on the smallest holds and do the hardest climbing moves ever done so they are the best climbers of all time.
Hardest technical crux of all time = hardest climb of all time
Guy who climbs hardest crux of all time = best climber of all time
They don't even need ropes and all that clanky gear.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 25, 2014 - 08:54pm PT
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Nah scrubs, you were just on acid dude.
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phillip mike revis
climber
snowbird, ut
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Sep 25, 2014 - 08:55pm PT
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tim wagoner a hero and a bad ass!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Sep 25, 2014 - 09:09pm PT
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Isn't the best climber the one who needs the least amount of gear to climb the hardest climbs?
Reinhold Messner and oxygen.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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Sep 25, 2014 - 09:53pm PT
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How is Weissner a north american climber? Are the Huber Brothers in too?
DMT
You're just trying to keep Fritz, Werner, and me out of the pool to give yourself a chance.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Sep 25, 2014 - 11:16pm PT
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I'd flip a coin between George Lowe and Charlie Porter
but Mugs Stump deserves some mention here as someone whose motivation, ethics and influence were exemplary
Alex Lowe was "best"
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Dolomite
climber
Anchorage
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Sep 26, 2014 - 10:09am PT
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John Roskelley:
First All American ascent of Eiger N Face (led EVERY pitch);
Cholatse, first ascent of;
Dhauligiri, new route;
Nanda Devi, new route;
K2, first American ascent;
Gaurishakar, first ascent, led 58 of 60 pitches;
Trango Tower, first ascent of;
Uli Biaho, first Grade VII by Americans;
Makalu, no Sherpas, no oxygen.
Probably an incomplete list. The dude keeps a pretty low profile.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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Sep 26, 2014 - 11:39am PT
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Werner was born in LA wuddint he?
DMT
Wait...
He's a Stoopid American?
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Gearhead
Trad climber
Novato Ca
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Sep 26, 2014 - 03:07pm PT
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Steve House
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vieroski
Trad climber
Pleasant Hill, CA
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Sep 28, 2014 - 09:42am PT
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Kinda surprised there's not a single Twight mention.
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whitemeat
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Sep 28, 2014 - 09:48am PT
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The one having the most fun.., duh!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Sep 28, 2014 - 11:56am PT
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Werner's sense of humor is utterly misunderstood and/or unappreciated by many ;)
He's my son, you know.
DMT
The steaming cowpie didn't fall far from the steer.
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