Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 38 of total 38 in this topic |
alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 7, 2014 - 04:20pm PT
|
Incredible Hulk Wind Shear, 5.12. FA sept 2, 2014 peter croft, dave nettle and andy puhvel
Peter had been eying this line for some time. the big question was how to gain the "hanging crack" to the right of Airstream and then how to work up and through those wild roofs that dominate the upper section of the wall. wild stuff to consider, but over the years some fairly improbable lines had panned out for us on the Hulk so we dove in with a determined but humorous blend of confident uncertainty!
Peter, Andy Puhvel and I went in there August 26-28 for a three day session to push the route and clean up corners and thin finger cracks that make up a large percentage of the route. Everything fell into place and the hanging crack was reached by a stout sequence of steep but positive face moves protected by 2 bolts.
On September 2nd Peter and I went back in for a day dash to climb the route from start to finish, with Peter leading the way with no falls and me making all sorts of noise on the follow. The one change we made on the Sept 2nd push was to establish a belay just below the roof pitch crux rather than make it a looong pitch. Besides giving a merciful break in between two very sustained sections, it reduces some serious rope drag and pinching potential at the lip of the roof. recommended!
The line is steep, varied, sustained, well protected, follows logical features and is pretty much independent. We more or less added the "Power Ranger" start to Wind Shear since that 2 pitch climb has never really been part of a bigger route since I climbed it with Mike Carville in the early '90's. So if you start on Power Ranger and finish on the final pitch of Positive Vibrations the route stacks up at one pitch of 5.9, two pitches of mid 5.10, five pitches of 5.11 and five pitches of 5.12 to the Venturi raps. Or continue on to the summit with a few more pitches.
Lots of options to duck in and out of the route for select pitches if desired as it weaves around next to Positive Vibrations and shares a couple of belays.
Cheers!
Dave Nettle
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
|
|
I just LOVE seeing this stuff, even though I'm not and never will be strong enough to climb it. By your taking the time to describe it, I can picture it.
"Tiny wires, tiny cams" - love it.
Congrats on your new route!
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Good job Dave! How about a new 5.11 for us old folks.
|
|
JakeW
Big Wall climber
CA
|
|
Thanks Dave! I'm psyched you put up this route. It's been my number one reason to go climb on the Hulk again...other than doing laps with my girlfriend. Just as you guys have been eying this line for a while, so have the rest of us! Complete with shared PV belays and everything. Like all the other routes you guys have done on the Hulk, thanks so much for doing all the hard work so the rest of us busy and less motivated and organized dorks can go have fun! Now I just have to get fit enough to carry the baby I'm soon to have up there!
|
|
HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
|
|
5.12 "power stemming" by Peter Croft, eh? I can't even imagine. Nice job, guys. Keep em coming. And share some pics if you have any.
|
|
bob
climber
|
|
Awesome!!!! Nice work.
Soooo Jake, shall we take our fitness to the Hulk instead? Can you pull it off?
|
|
Gagner
climber
Boulder
|
|
Looks bitchin!! Way to go Dave. Maybe I'll see you in the ditch in October….?
|
|
RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
|
|
Looks amazing. Thanks to all of you folks who have put in such hard work up there. It does not go unappreciated!
|
|
ryankelly
Trad climber
el portal
|
|
thats real, real cool
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
Great job, would also like to see some pics if you guys took any.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
KABOOM!
WELL DONE, AWESOME STUFF!
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
If only I could climb something like that...
Thanks for sharing and inspiring!
|
|
Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
|
|
WOW! Thanks Dave! That looks incredibly sustained! Great job on this route - it looks like another gem!
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
|
|
No pictures, no pictures, no pictures.......
I guess you have to sell it to the ragazine first.
|
|
alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2014 - 06:23pm PT
|
This time around it was all climbing, scratching out cracks and other manual labor fun...and there are no really good pix! I usually make it a habit to bring along the camera, but we only had 3 days this season to make this route happen as Peter is heading off on other adventures and I've been gone most of the summer... this was our only window this year to get it all done and then we only had ONE day (Tuesday Sept 2) to climb the route in a push (Reno to Reno/ Bishop to Bishop) and no time for snapping shots!
The other factor is that this route is pretty steep and it's real hard to get any good shots IF you are either climbing or belaying (which we both were) So I passed on taking butt shots (sorry Peter) and stuck to the task at hand! In a way it was kind of liberating to just climb and not even have the option to think about shooting pix...
This would be a fantastic route to shoot if another team was on Positive Vibes at the same time...you could pretty much swap cameras at the base, then walk away with wild pix of your Wind Shear/Positive Vibrations ascent when you exchanged the cameras back on the top! Hmmm...
here is one of the few pix showing the route ahead with a good view of the hanging crack and the wild roofs above on our line. Also note the perpetual shade on the lower half of this route so bring along something more than your velcro slippers, tank top and dolphin shorts this time of year! And the name Wind Shear is not just figurative...have fun!
cheers!
Dave
|
|
peter croft
climber
|
|
Nice of Dave for apologizing for no butt photos of me but I say thank god.
I mean really, who wants even the tiniest of bottom shots in even the weeniest of publications (or forums).
Here's a pic of Andy making short work of some big moves. Don't be deceived by the scale - he has about a twelve foot wing span.
Just full fledged fun with two great friends.
|
|
ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
|
|
the weeniest of publications (or forums)
pegged!!!
good route, Peter. Thanks for the stoke.
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
A photo worth carrying to the next page:
Muy chévere.
|
|
pvalchev
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
Looks amazing, thanks so much!!!
|
|
crankster
Trad climber
|
|
Epic. Hard men getting it done.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
|
|
Stoked for you guys! What a great line. Proud send and congrats on a mission completed. Glad Peter chimed in with a photo cause we all know it didn't happen unless a photo ends up on Facebook or Supertaco. Thanks for taking the time to share it here so we can all salivate over your topo.
Scott
|
|
StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Bitchen. Thanks for sharing.
|
|
Andy Puhvel
climber
|
|
Thanks for letting me tag along on this grand adventure Peter and Dave. Watching you hard men put up a route on the Hulk was like seeing two superheroes obliterate the bad guy's hideout. The poor route didn't stand much of a chance. When push came to shove Peter pretty much ripped off his shirt and turned green. And there you have it, a new route on the Incredible Hulk. Here's a shot of the man's better end, his beaming smile that can't get enough of this climbing stuff.
|
|
lucho
Trad climber
California
|
|
Rad!
|
|
peter croft
climber
|
|
le bruce - What you said. Andy's the real deal, alright!
Strong as a hybrid monkey and about as nice a guy as I know.
|
|
Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2014 - 08:01am PT
|
RADNESS!!
|
|
gnarlydog
Mountain climber
Concord,Ca
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2014 - 08:34am PT
|
Your guys are Savages! I love climbing your routes!
|
|
The Alpine
climber
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2015 - 09:39pm PT
|
Missed this first time around.
|
|
David Wilson
climber
CA
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2015 - 07:31am PT
|
Such a high level of climbing ! Great job guys!
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2015 - 07:37am PT
|
Wow! Wish I could climb at that level.
Question....I have been to the Hulk 5 or 6 times but it's been a couple of years. Good camping is a bit limited and I've heard that the traffic to the Hulk has exploded. Is it a crowded scene now?
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2015 - 10:08am PT
|
It depends on the weekend. Early season and late season is usually fine. Mid week would USUALLY be fine. Been there on a holiday weekend and camped in a prime spot without a problem. Might not be first or second in line for PV or Red Dihedral, but there IS SO MUCH to climb there that you will certainly have fun even if you can ONLY come for the weekend.
Polish Route, Escape From Poland, Beeline with variations, Tradewinds and Sun Spot are all great alternatives that see MUCH LESS traffic, usually. One of them should be free that's for sure! Polish Route and Sunspot are a must Jim!
PS: sorry for thread drift. Wish I could climb your route some day in far away future. Looks great!
|
|
Flip Flop
climber
salad bowl, california
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2015 - 12:48pm PT
|
Bump for the quilt.
Hey Dave, keep the stories coming,
Brook
|
|
cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
|
|
Bump! Anyone climbed this thing?!?!
Lets see some more photos.
 Luke
|
|
Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
|
|
I was waiting for you and Vitaliy to go up there and spay us down with pictures and beta...
Also been a little stormy lately. I still hope to get up there this weekend, but 35-50% chance of thunderstorms is no bueno.
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
Did this thing get a repeat yet?
|
|
Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
|
|
Sounds awesome. Wish I had the guns....
BAd
|
|
| Messages 1 - 38 of total 38 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!