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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 31, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
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What does your community do about "route developers" that put in ridiculous runouts on climbs well within their ability because it makes them feel like badass climbers???
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thebravecowboy
climber
strugglin' to make time to climb
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Aug 31, 2014 - 04:09pm PT
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gape
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Aug 31, 2014 - 04:44pm PT
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create loaded questions
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Aug 31, 2014 - 04:49pm PT
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Head point, bro.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Aug 31, 2014 - 05:15pm PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Aug 31, 2014 - 05:17pm PT
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Liquid courage before the run out lead.......
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Aug 31, 2014 - 05:19pm PT
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Make April Fool's day threads about retrobolting the BY
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Aug 31, 2014 - 05:27pm PT
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What does your community do about "route developers" that put in ridiculous runouts on climbs well within their ability because it makes them feel like badass climbers???
Laugh at people like you.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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Aug 31, 2014 - 05:53pm PT
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What does your community do about "route developers" that put in ridiculous runouts on climbs well within their ability because it makes them feel like badass climbers???
Do other routes if they don't like the runouts.
Don't clip the bolts and call the route over bolted otherwise.
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Old&InTheWay
Trad climber
NC
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Aug 31, 2014 - 05:53pm PT
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In the NC community you respect the FA style, and you can sac up and climb the route or leave it alone. You never know... you might just find some natural gear that makes the route more reasonable. If none of that works and the climb so appealing that you absolutely have to lead the damn thing, you should talk to the FA party and ask how they managed the runout. If they weren't finding un-obvious pro via covert trickery, ask if they would consider adding a bolt. Don't let your feelings get hurt if they say no.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Aug 31, 2014 - 06:30pm PT
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In the NC community you respect the FA style, and you can sac up and climb the route or leave it alone. You never know... you might just find some natural gear that makes the route more reasonable. If none of that works and the climb so appealing that you absolutely have to lead the damn thing, you should talk to the FA party and ask how they managed the runout. If they weren't finding un-obvious pro via covert trickery, ask if they would consider adding a bolt. Don't let your feelings get hurt if they say no.
Perfect.
I've always liked what I've heard about the North Carolina climbing community.
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grover
climber
Northern Mexico
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Aug 31, 2014 - 06:35pm PT
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Less is more
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ruppell
climber
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Aug 31, 2014 - 06:39pm PT
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Most climbers deal with it by rising to the challenge. Some cry about it on supertopo. Guess we know which one you are.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Aug 31, 2014 - 07:32pm PT
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Retro troll
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Aug 31, 2014 - 08:30pm PT
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Don't worry... be practical
It's easy to add another bolt.
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Andrew Barnes
Ice climber
Albany, NY
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Aug 31, 2014 - 08:45pm PT
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Except NC and a few places, they "murder the impossible".
Luckily there are lots of alpine routes and places where this is impossible, because the routes are too remote, too big, too serious, too pant filling for the posers to venture.
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Rolfr
Social climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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If you put runouts on top roped, rap bolted routes, either your a cheap bastard or a duffus!
Help , I'm be sucked into a vortex of Trolls!
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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A wise man never lets boy psychology interfere with his own safety. Bolt the SOB.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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In my "area" there are 500,000 routes to do. So if there's some I can't do, I don't climb them. I realize this is not true for every area.
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go-B
climber
Cling to what is good!
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Sorry about that, you can add bolts to my routes! :)
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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purely an academic question but....
what if the first ascensionist solos a route? does that mean protection is forever forbidden?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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long fixed lines for the 5.9X route?
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scaredycat
Trad climber
Berkeley,CA
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I top rope it then troll on Supertopo. Mostly, I just climb trad routes and curse the FA team of badly bolted sports routes.
For a more sincere answer: It would depend if the route is top rope-able. My feeling is if it is, just top top rope it until you're woman enough to lead it. I do get pissed at sparsely bolted routs, but I also get pissed an any single pitch bolted route with easy access to the top. Dazed and Confused, though, now that's a route.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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I only have established two types of routes, under bolted and over bolted.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Released into general population, Idaho
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Define "bolt".
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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, CA
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Do what I always did. Climb the route anyway and don't fall where ever you are severely run out. Don't fall on the well protected crack sections either unless you put your gear in shitty, ensuring that you'll take a good screamer anyway before something finally holds.
What's going on?
Where am I ?
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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, CA
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Or use a top rope
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Personally, I whip out and masturbate furiously while cursing the FA-ists name as loud as possible to the wind.
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coolrockclimberguy69
climber
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The length/girth of a man's penis is measured by the distance between his FA bolts.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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And when that varies you must be a grow'er not a show'er.
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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, CA
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Dingus,
Too hot in summer, too suburban always.
My little peice of heaven is rural acreage near Sloughhouse, but close enough to the city where I can sell tree work.
If the crazies show up, I can wander the night buck naked in flip flops with a load of buckshot and nobody is the wiser.
Our view of desolation wilderness area is nicer.
Why do you ask?
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Following the FA's intention is.....
perfect............
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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oH sloughhouse, sloughouse, how does ur house slough
my hearts yearning for the sweet summer days i learned that were you
every year we'd pack the family car in Auburn and down the hill we flew
our faces grew smiles our hearts grew songs in anticipation of what we knew
no one on god's green planet grows golden ears as tasty as you grew
we loved ur jerky so much grandma used'ta put it in the stew
but that was looooong before anybody ever called me blue
one day i'll make the drive north that i can do
just to awake one more day refreshed with your smell of green amplified by the morning dew
that's what i crave not all those cows that just stand around and chew PU
and PU to this spew
To bolt or not to bolt,
the last few rtes i've helped put up. i had envisions of my daughter doing them someday. So my rtes tend to be safe. On the otherhand maybe if i had a son i would've spaced'em to try and scare the heck out of him? Then tell him to sack-up?
in Josh there's lots of 5.8's with one bolt put up 20yrs ago by 5.12 climbers that deserve a few more bolts and anchors. These rtes go years without seeing any action cause nobody wants to die or break a leg on 5.8.
Some of these rtes have really fun climbing on good rock and if they were safe it would take some pressure off other rtes.
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| Messages 1 - 35 of total 35 in this topic |
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