Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 32 of total 32 in this topic |
TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 28, 2014 - 09:44am PT
|
I'm headed to Boulder in a few weeks for the Boulder Cup Cyclocross Races and made plans to stay a couple extra days and do a bit of Flat Irons climbing.
I was looking at the First Flatiron Direct Route but figured there are probably a few other noteworthy long moderates that would have less traffic.
Any suggestions???
Thanks, Tye
P.S. I have never climbed in CO before... Should be big fun.
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2014 - 10:29am PT
|
The First has the best summit views, it's usually the place I take friends from out of town.
I've never seen it crowded, unlike the Third.
The Maiden and the Matron are also stellar.
|
|
Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2014 - 10:37am PT
|
I've only climbed the First and Third Flatiron. E. Face of the First to the North Ridge is a terrific outing. There are a ton of other great options I'm sure of equal quality but not many that would surpass it.
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2014 - 11:40am PT
|
Tye, you have to do the Fourth Flatiron, for sure.
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2014 - 02:34pm PT
|
Another option if you want some adventure is Angel/Devil Wings which goes up the south end of Bear Peak in 8 pitches followed by a scramble to the summit. If you are not up for that type of climb, Bear Peak is worth doing as a sturdy warm up to get use to the altitude.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2014 - 02:48pm PT
|
The East Ridge on the Maiden at 5.4 is pretty hard to beat with the bombsight rappel to finish!
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2014 - 02:55pm PT
|
W.L.
Did First Flatiron, whatever the "classic" low 5th deal is on it, maybe 5.6? Anyway, did that last year and was not impressed. If that were next to Tenaya Peak on 120, it would be ignored in favor of Tenaya...
|
|
blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2014 - 03:38pm PT
|
Did First Flatiron, whatever the "classic" low 5th deal is on it, maybe 5.6? Anyway, did that last year and was not impressed.
You didn't use a rope, did you? That takes some of the fun out of it.
The East Ridge on the Maiden at 5.4 is pretty hard to beat with the bombsight rappel to finish!
What the hell is the East Ridge of the Maiden at 5.4?
According to my guide, there's a climb called East Ridge that goes at 10c--I've never done it or heard of it before looking at the guide.
The standard route is the North Ridge, and it gets a 5.6R. I've done that route several times. While there's been plenty of grade inflation, I'm skeptical the North Ridge was ever rated 5.4, and if somehow it was, that rating would be entirely out of whack with modern ratings, even allowing for sandbags.
In light of the comments above, how about: if you don't live on the Front Range (or have extensive climbing experience here), maybe keep your thoughts to yourself on this thread? There's no shortage people who post here who actually have climbed more than one route in the Flatirons and have some vague idea of what route names and ratings are.
|
|
blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2014 - 05:03pm PT
|
Ok but if you get both the name and the rating VERY wrong, I'm not sure it's fair to say a visitor would know what you're talking about.
Also, it climbs pretty different (IMHO) from a standard east face.
It is a very good/interesting route and worth doing.
Just so y'all don't think I mean to only post negative stuff, here's my slightly obscure, quality pick: Satan's Slab (5.8R according to my Haas guide). But I'm sure there are a lot better climbs in Yosemite or wherever.
|
|
TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2014 - 10:00pm PT
|
Wow! I guess I have a lot more to ponder than I thought... that 5.7r Maiden climb seems like a fun time.
Moderate adventure will be the name of the game and it sounds like there is plenty of that to pick from.
Also, Peter, can you elaborate on why the fourth is a must-do? I mean besides the obvious awesomeness that the pic makes clear...
|
|
blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2014 - 10:33pm PT
|
Also, Peter, can you elaborate on why the fourth is a must-do? Look maybe I wasn't clear enough in my last post: do yourself a favor and DO NOT ask for or take advice from people who don't live here or don't have extensive climbing experience here. (And from what's been written above, the advice from people who do live here, such as yours truly, should be taken with a giant grain of salt.)
You are either being teased or the poster is insane or some combination is going on, as only in ST world is the Fourth a "must do."
Steelmonkey's topos are actually pretty cool and useful (although I like to cross the Gash somewhat higher on the 3rd for the easiest/quickest ascent).
|
|
TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2014 - 05:45am PT
|
Just trying to keep my options open.
I'm wondering if stealmonkey has one of those fancy topos for the first flatiron direct route...
Also, does the second have to downclimb from the second belay at the start of the third pitch on that Maiden climb? I'm wondering if that would freak my GF out.
|
|
Ljohnson
Social climber
The land of ice, snow and rocks
|
|
|
Aug 29, 2014 - 05:53am PT
|
+1 for Yellow Spur. If your stuck on the Flatirons, Fandango on the first is a favorite of mine. Hit the Spy while your up there, really cool fin with a pretty exciting jump across finish.
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Aug 29, 2014 - 06:14am PT
|
If you do the third is a really good 5,7 on the backside that you rap over it's really steep and fun.
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Aug 29, 2014 - 07:18am PT
|
I just pulled my stuff.
People like blahblah just make me tired and sad and I just can't do it.
Pick up one of the guides by Gerry Roach or Jason Haas and go have fun.
|
|
TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2014 - 09:02am PT
|
Hey man, for the record I appreciate any valuable tid-bits of beta from anyone willing to share with me. I really was hoping for more of those topos. I will gladly visit the shops when I get there and buy a guide book but still... I like to hear what everyone thinks are awesome routes.
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Aug 29, 2014 - 09:20am PT
|
Hey Tye, I hope you have a great trip. The Flatirons are like a big scrambling fun park and you should be able to get 'er done no worries. Just get tired of all the negative b.s. and contrary d-bags who like to hang out and spray on here for some reason.
|
|
TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2014 - 08:08am PT
|
I'm bumping myself....
Hoping to get some more input without any critisism of anyone else's advise.
I'm a grown man and can adequately decide if some advise is not good.
Thanks, Tye
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2014 - 09:24am PT
|
You will get a lot more input by posting this question over on Mountain Project.
The climbing community is pretty fragmented and there are different forums for different areas.
Supertopo is California, Cascade Climbers is Pacific Northwest, Mountain Project is for the Rockies. NEClimbs for the northeast, etc.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2014 - 11:00am PT
|
I was looking at the First Flatiron Direct Route but figured there are probably a few other noteworthy long moderates that would have less traffic.
I specialized in this for a number of years Tye. I've done over 90 of them, all moderate east face romps.
Earlier in this thread someone recommended Baker's Way on the First Flatiron as an alternative to the perhaps more crowded standard Direct East Face.
I agree.
For a first-time visitor with good trad skills a good strategy for adventure would be to pick offbeat routes of the standard rocks like the First and the Third Flatirons.
On the Third Flatiron I avoid The Standard Route (5.2) (the one with the big eyebolts) for a route on the right margin of the east face.
It combines Extra Point (5.7) to start (decent all natural protection) with the relatively unprotected upper section of College Dropout (5.8).
These are Rossiter ratings. The upper edge is spicy but I doubt that it's necessarily 5.8 on a huge run out or anything quite so severe.
(I think the combo may actually come in above the 5.8). Notably, it's easy enough to stay away from the edge on more moderate ground to the left.
Check the first 20 posts of this thread for pictures of this Third Flatiron combo route:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/940092/The-Road-to-the-3rd-Flatiron-a-day-with-DR
Check this thread for some cherry picked examples of things off the beaten path and get back to me with any specific questions as you like.
None of it is well protected and all of it moderate. Approaches will typically be the issue if you have no experience with the area.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=391610
Cheers,
Roy
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2014 - 11:02am PT
|
If you want to do the Third, go around back and do
Friday's Folly. AWESOME route!
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2014 - 12:25pm PT
|
If you don't mind hiking and some adventure a couple more Flatirons with dramatic summits
you will never forget would be Left Side of Devils Thumb and the South Face of the Goose.
In Eldorado, Yellow Spur has already been mentioned but you can add Gambit on Shirt Tail Peak
and Redguard and the Bulge on Redgarden Wall to the list.
Most of these routes are heady and a bit run out in places.
The Rossiter guide is out of print but the Hass guide takes over where Richard left off,
Jason did a great job on the new guidebook.
If you are unsure of what to do and do not want to buy the guide you can keep asking
questions here or look at all the beta on Mountain Project.
I'm sure between the two forums you will have all your answers covered.
|
|
Magic Ed
Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2014 - 01:01pm PT
|
I would recommend the First Flatiron because it's the only one from which you can see all the way to the Continental Divide.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2014 - 01:08pm PT
|
Seal Rock east face routes are decent, both the left and right are good 5.4. (The left is sportier than the right: you belay from a huge tied-off knob!).
One of my favorites is Northeast Buttress of the Fifth Flat Iron, 5.6 and almost like real climbing. Ha ha.
One of the longest fairly accessible climbs is in fact the East Face route on the Fourth Flatiron.
It comprises three very large slabs. 12 pitches. See: Royal Arch trail ... it starts right off it!
The Flying Flatiron east face route is pretty cool at 5.6. So is the Fat Iron, 5.4.
Just thinking of highlights here ... things I've done repeatedly.
|
|
Mcampbell
Trad climber
Lubbock
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2014 - 05:13pm PT
|
The first flat iron was fun do the direct route but leave the rope behind you don't need it unless you want to rap off the back
|
|
Mcampbell
Trad climber
Lubbock
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2014 - 05:15pm PT
|
|
|
bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2014 - 05:29pm PT
|
The East Ridge on the Maiden at 5.4 is pretty hard to beat with the bombsight rappel to finish!
Just to set the record straight the East Ridge of the Maiden is 5.10. If you do the hand crack start it is 5.10c. If you bypass that start the crux face pitch, up higher, is 5.10a.
My personal recommendation is either the Direct on the First Flatiron which is about 10 pitches the first being 5.6 and the rest being low 5th class or the East Face of the Third Flatiron which is mostly low 5th class. If there is a full moon, consider doing a moonlight ascent.
|
|
TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2014 - 06:17pm PT
|
Dang... I'm stoked. Thanks a lot for all the info. I just need to pick something out. We'll see. I will be there for 2 days before I get a chance to climb so maybe I will chat up some boulder folks when I'm there. I think might be leaning towards the long wandering route on the fourth.
|
|
Mcampbell
Trad climber
Lubbock
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
|
Just get there early parking is f*#kin crazy
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2014 - 07:45am PT
|
How about that East Ridge of The Maiden! The 5.10 crux crack at the start, though not so long requires real jamming skills, is steep and even a little bit in your face.
The 10A headwall above the crack is interesting, funky, a little scabby and protected (in the late 90s) by some of the most crap bolts I've ever clipped.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2014 - 09:33am PT
|
Thanks for the correction.
North Face route (at 5.5) is not the East Ridge but does join it. Right route, wrong aspect...
Great summit. Uber classic rappel!
The classic Cleve McCarty shot of Dale Johnson on the FA of the breakthrough Northwest Overhang with Dave Robertson and Cary Huston in 1953. Too bad the onlooker didn't have a camera.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 32 of total 32 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!