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Messages 1 - 32 of total 32 in this topic |
ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 13, 2014 - 07:30am PT
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One week from today we will be pulling in to SoYo...
So stoked I may pee myself. Not really but anyway, any ST'ers
that are gonna be in the area stop by have a beer , would be
great to meet some of you. Mike A. see you in a week !
Ready to swill n Send .
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2014 - 07:40am PT
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C'mon Locker don't go lite on me.... I need a good ol' fashion..
Wait...
c'mon you know... give it to me
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 13, 2014 - 07:42am PT
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I just spent an evening poking thru a friends copy of the new guide to Shuteye. That place looks awesome....enjoy!
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Aug 13, 2014 - 09:03am PT
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morning, just give me a heads up when you want to meet and climb, like i said in your e-mail week days is what works for me, i am booked on weekend guiding, i think you will like shuteye, happy climbing mike a.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Aug 13, 2014 - 09:08am PT
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Aug 13, 2014 - 09:13am PT
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You're going to have an awesome time. But be sure to check out the French Fire road and trail closures around the southeastern part of Shuteye here: http://inciweb.nwcg.gov/incident/4013/.
To balance out that bummer, here's a little extra stokage for you.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Aug 13, 2014 - 09:15am PT
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Nice
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Aug 13, 2014 - 09:19am PT
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go git sum! Lemme know if you wanna borrow a guidebook. I'm in Fresno.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Aug 13, 2014 - 09:20am PT
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That place looks way too cool. So jelous. I am a thousand miles away and if I could go to only one place in CA this looks like it might make the cut.
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2014 - 09:35am PT
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Thanks for the stoke all !
The fires are a concern. We are flexible and just want to climb.
Hopefully the fire situation will let us get there ?
Micronut.... e-mail sent
Again, looking forward to meeting any of you that might be in
the area. Also plan on Fresno dome and the Balls.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Aug 13, 2014 - 10:12am PT
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The locals can probably give you better info than I can, but piecing together the FD report and the guidebook it looks like right now all the roads on the east side are closed, but the entire western flank of the ridge is still open. That will give you plenty of room to play. Plus there's still a week for them to start opening roads back up (which I hope they do soon because I have a week off and want to check out the conditions of the Eagle Beaks-it looks like the fire got close, but didn't run all the way up to them).
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Aug 13, 2014 - 10:26am PT
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Minarets from North Fork may still be closed...lots of tree removal underway after the fire.
Eagles Beak area may have some big dozer cuts at the base...heard the BAER teams will be backfilling a lot of break lines over the next month.
Beasore is kinda open...at least to the meadow but watch for heavy fire equipment still moving up and down Beasore road itself.
Other than that Mrs. Lincoln...enjoy the play.
Rick
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Aug 13, 2014 - 10:32am PT
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Balls
West Face of The Golden Toad. 3-4 pitches of 5.7 tastiness.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Aug 13, 2014 - 07:59pm PT
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Tuolumne and Shuteye are tied, in my book, for best sh#t out there....
And they are both very different. But they both have the best quality IMO. Tuolumne is mostly slab/smear focused where Shuteye is crimpers.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Aug 13, 2014 - 08:11pm PT
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Whoa, this place looks rad.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Aug 13, 2014 - 08:54pm PT
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No kidding. Have a great time!
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Aug 13, 2014 - 09:03pm PT
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Sh#t yeah, you are going to love it. Have fun.
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Aug 13, 2014 - 09:56pm PT
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Closed signs came down tonight on Grizzly Road at the Beasore Meadows turnoff. You should be good to go from the Bass Lake side. Not sure if Jone's Store is back up and running.
Still waiting for a current report from the Minarets side - but since even Mile High got nuked - it may be a while from that direction.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Aug 13, 2014 - 10:48pm PT
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Thanks for the info and updates, Ricky.
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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Aug 14, 2014 - 06:09am PT
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Saw the guidebook just recently and very well done. The place looks great. Only issue is driving from Reno I have to drive through Toulumne and the Valley and somehow the magnitizism of those two areas always stops me. Looks like a great place to be secluded. Enjoy and post some pictures.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Aug 17, 2014 - 04:20pm PT
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Shuteye and the Valley are equidistant from my home, but I've been choosing Shuteye more and more recently. Yosemite's the undisputed King of Bigwall, but for phenomenal climbing in utter solitude, Shuteye can't be beat, thanks to its big brother to the north drawing all the crowds.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Cool video TR, Roxy! Way to make the best of it.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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First time out and you find Gray Camp, my favorite Spot in all of Shuteye, nice!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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NICE shot! Looks easy from here. Love the variety of textures on dat rock. Place is on my list of things to go to and visit.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Sep 22, 2014 - 11:00am PT
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So I am going to Shuteye for the first time and would love to climb on lots of plates. I need routes in the 5.8 to 5.11b range. Where would be the best places to go for this? Thanks for any input!
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Sep 22, 2014 - 11:09am PT
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Gray Eagle area. High Eagle and 557's would be good too.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Sep 23, 2014 - 08:25am PT
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Thanks. Any other recommendations?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 23, 2014 - 08:28am PT
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Have fun....
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Sep 23, 2014 - 10:29am PT
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Trust Justin, his recommendations are good, and he is certainly more travelled than I am, but LE will also fit your bill, if shorter cragging (1-2 pitches) is desirable. Heavier on the moderates perhaps than 557s. Dreamscape also comes to mind, and has more plates than a china shop.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Sep 23, 2014 - 11:26pm PT
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Anyone know if roads 7S02 & 7S02H off Mammoth Pool Rd are open? Trying to get over to Big Sleep & Milky Way wall.
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