For the Current guide to the butte, get John Jacksons " Rock climbs of North tahoe" a locals guide. The most revealing guide of the tahoes since Rick Sumner and crews Red and Green Guides of the 70s, and Mike Carvilles yellow guide to tahoe in the early 90s.
The wall and wild women were my first trad leads back in 2002. I always enjoyed sitting on top watching the sunset over the Sierra's. The rattlesnakes were always kind enough to alert us to their position, a consideration the copperheads in the south do not share. Thanks for the memories Ron.
Thanks peeps, and congrats Derek- you chose two gud -uns for your first leads.
As for an email question about Wild women of planet playtex, you can do it as a single 1/2 rope length climb to the double bolt anchors, or belay just above those anchors a few feet and climb the second pitch of broken blocks and cracks, or if you have a long rope, do it in one long pitch. 3 options, one route. Its a wee over 150' as a single pitch.
A nice little crag, of moderate routes, that always seems to stay dry, even as you watch the winter storms pound the Sierras a few miles away. (No shade in the summer though)
First time there (Escaping a winter storm in Tahoe early/mid 90s and using the guide Ron had put out) I still remember the grin that grew larger with every upward move up "The Wall" as it became apparent that this moderate outdoor gym of "porcelain deathplates" was, against ALL odds, absolutely solid. :)
Redbeard is also a nice route I have taken new trad leaders to practice on. That 145' handcrack and dihedral (Longest route at the Butte) eats pro. (The reputation for rattlesnakes is well deserved however, so stay aware when in their habitat)
Another time there I discovered the most perfectly crafted arrowhead, on a small ledge halfway up the rockband/face while soloing up at the far right (West) end of the cliff. Very cool!
(Lousy kitty litter "rock" quality at that end and not really worth climbing, unlike the middle section of the cliff where the established routes are)
Have yet to run across another climbing party out there; so close to Highway 50 and Dayton, yet very peaceful....
One of the few ive run into there John, would be Alvin McLane lol! Him and some younger folk were doing wild women and red beard bout 92 0r 93 i guess. We had a marvelous chat- it was like Jan, blustery in Tahoe and warm as a cats cradle in the afternoon sun at the butte, with that peaceful lazy hazy atmosphere you speak of..
Had much the same reaction to the wall as you- i bouldered up about a third or more of it one day just to see, and found it to be amazing quality.
We put it to rest the next day all on one set of rocks. You can find the placement you want literally. And they are all bomber in the polished "iron".
As soon as the weather gets cold, and the snakes go into hibernation, Sasha and I will check it out.As for tomarrow we're heading to Old Camp Bluff, one of many many Highway 88 obscurities. I've been there twice now and am quite impressed. It's not Eldo so very little prancing, more grunting, . DanK
Thanks for this Ron. Really cool. I remember seeing this awhile back and dug it up as i didn't have time for it then. As others have mentioned, it would have been much easier to find this if you had put it in the trip report section. Then i could have simply clicked that tab on your profile rather than searching through old posts..
(Sigh), sorry Big Mike,, i never have used that (TR) feature..
A simple iron butte in the search box gets ya ritcheer though..;-/
If your ever in the area of highway 50 between stage coach and Datyon, stop by for a day and many pitches up "moderates" - highly recommended from october through april. Its been snowing in S Tahoe and calm sunny and warm at the Butte in comparison. Faces west- therefore early starts arent warranted. Must dos: Red beard-one move of 5.7 the rest 5.6, Wild Women-5.9, Grip master-5.10 B, No Stickum 5.8+, Baboon safari 5.11, Locally owned 11.B , The Wall 5.9, and Nyx 5.11A.