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Messages 1 - 83 of total 83 in this topic

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Jul 16, 2014 - 11:25am PT

isn't Shanti the great wide hope?

she has the most serious training regime...
has put up quite a few of those "test pieces" the Wide Boyz climbed...
and is probably the climber in the best position to extend beyond the successes of the British Invasion

but actually, what's with the nationalism? regionalism? tribalism?

they did crush, even if their experience was nil in comparison to the local US crew...

on second thought, I get your point.

Cragar

climber

MSLA - MT

Jul 16, 2014 - 11:28am PT

I'd say Pamela is! Right you are Ed! Also, have the brits done all of the hard vertical to overhanging OW's; or just the horizontal ones? There is a difference..

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Jul 16, 2014 - 11:31am PT

I think that there is yet to be a similar display of prowess on all types of OW...

I'd say Jaybro probably has the broadest experience... maybe he can pipe in here... at least of active OW climbers, and, of course eeyonkee...

but they aren't at the bleeding edge of the technique anymore

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Jul 16, 2014 - 11:31am PT

I think American boys need to learn to climb better.........

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Jul 16, 2014 - 11:32am PT

I am fine with the American girls rocking on the OW... the boys can avoid the hard work and prance if they so choose

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Jul 16, 2014 - 11:34am PT

I certainly prefer prancing to harrrrrd OW!!!

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber

like Ontario, Canada, eh?

Jul 16, 2014 - 11:37am PT

Tom Randall is a great climber, even if he got off to an inauspicious big wall career.

He attempted a push-solo of Eagle's Way, back-cleaned too much stuff, took a long whipper, busted his only piece of not back-cleaned gear [rivet hanger] and hit the end of the rope right off his belay anchor, pretty close to a Factor 2 fall. The locker on his Grigri broke[!] and he continued another twenty feet to his backup knot.

Sustained some very nasty rope burns to his left hand, and injured his back. YOSAR helped him down.

He definitely cheated death on that one! Haven't seen him around for some time. You listening here, Tom? When are you coming back to the El Cap Bridge for some beers?

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2014 - 11:45am PT

at least of active OW climbers, and, of course eeyonkee...
but they aren't at the bleeding edge of the technique anymore

Hard to read laid out in print and all, but, alas, certainly true. At this point in my career, I could only hope for a highly-paid consultant role, like one of those former soccer players commenting on the World Cup. In fact, that would be Perfect!

nopantsben

climber

Jul 16, 2014 - 11:56am PT

maybe OW climbing was uncompetitive until the Wide Boyz hit the scene. now the situation is perfect for anyone to take the next step - if anyone want to be competitively committed to OW climbing, that is.

:-)

crunch

Social climber

Jul 16, 2014 - 12:18pm PT

Hey cragar,

have the brits done all of the hard vertical to overhanging OW's; or just the horizontal ones? There is a difference.

When they had been in the US for a while, after spending time in Indian Creek, Zion, Vedauwoo, etc, they suggested that they were at the point where they could master any "vertical" wide crack of any size, shape, flare or orientation.

They became burned out and a bit bored with Indian Creek because that's all the Creek had, vertical cracks. People had shown them them wide crack after wide crack and they were not any kind of challenge any more.

The solution, of course, is to go hunting for even more difficult roof cracks around Canyonlands NP. There's some truly outrageous wide crack features/flares in the White Rim layer, in the gaps between those monstrous white blocks where they jut out over enormous caves and recesses, grossly undercut. No one's even been looking on the more remote parts of the White Rim Trail, the south end or over on the west side....

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2014 - 12:37pm PT

That's what I'm talking about, Crunch! We, by virtue of our greater land mass have the infinitely better local practice grounds. That's where we have it over the Brits. Oh wait, ...look who I'm talking to...nevermind.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Jul 16, 2014 - 01:14pm PT

of course, there are still some Yosemite OW cracks for the taking...

didn't see them out in these parts.

Of course, many of them are longer than one pitch.

kev

climber

A pile of dirt.

Jul 16, 2014 - 01:24pm PT

isn't Shanti the great wide hope?

That was super funny Ed - well put as usual...

kunlun_shan

Mountain climber

SF, CA

Jul 16, 2014 - 01:36pm PT

Its probably of little consolation, but Tom Randall is originally South African. NOT a real Brit. ;-)

supafly

Trad climber

vancouver, bc

Jul 16, 2014 - 01:45pm PT

PTP Pete.. where did you hear that story?

It sounds flippin' BADASS!

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Jul 16, 2014 - 01:49pm PT

How many times have I heard that before over the years? And every time some comes in to "fill that void" they get spanked, realize it's harder than they thought and retreat to golf or something. Except of course, for Tom & Peter!

Relax, you guys, the sky is not falling. There are those of us working away... Without a press agent.... It would be interesting to see what the wide Boyz, if they were still climbing wide cracks thought of some of Pam's recent routes. Not like they had a 100% success ratio the first time....
And yes, they did speciize in roofs over vertical routes. Forever war would be a good challenge.

Grug you reactionary Troll. You ;)

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Jul 16, 2014 - 01:57pm PT

by the way, my loyalty to The Wide exceeds my nationalistic tendencies...

so I've always thought what the Wide Boyz did was bad azzzz! to the max. (And Shanti and others are included too!).

we're gonna have to find the proper foot gear for Grug, though

[Click to View YouTube Video]
maybe 5.10 can make a special run of the TC Pros... red, white and blue sued?

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Jul 16, 2014 - 02:12pm PT

Got my eye on one Dingus....

Ed, I've had "TheTalk" with Grug about the shoes... Sigh....

chill

climber

between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing

Jul 16, 2014 - 02:19pm PT

WTF, that's a tired cliche.
They are all-around trad masters (not just wide). I'd like to see them do some free routes on el cap.

Phantom X

Trad climber

Honeycomb Hideout

Jul 16, 2014 - 03:22pm PT

I'm for kidnapping Kate Middleton for starters. Yes?

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Jul 16, 2014 - 03:36pm PT

You know Phantom X, there are dating sites, right?

goatboy smellz

climber

लघिमा

Jul 16, 2014 - 03:56pm PT

Is this the new secret booty thread?

Phantom X

Trad climber

Honeycomb Hideout

Jul 16, 2014 - 04:20pm PT

Great thinking Jaybro! We lure her in with a date with Donini (sorry Ed) and I'll sneak up from behind with a gunny sack. Yes!

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2014 - 04:28pm PT

Hmmm, maybe it IS the footgear with me. Thanks, Ed! I'm always looking for that "extra-edge" that can also serve as an up 'til now excuse if you've never tried it before... Dingus is on the right track. We need some corn-fed American boys and girls. Pamela has the talent and grit. We need more, however.

Phantom X is thinking outside the box. I like that too.

As I said in another thread, let's just be thankful that East Germany dissolved and it's not THEM that we're dealing with. We'd likely have a totally different strategy involving subterfuge and the like.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Jul 16, 2014 - 05:36pm PT

Climbers without borders. Anytime climbing and nationalisim have mixed it's been a bitter brew. Maybe the lads success will motivate someone to train as hard with the same kind of focus.
Yeah....we have nicer teeth over here, all the better to smile with after a little sand is kicked in the face.
Ran into those guys in Moab and they sure seemed to be having fun.

mouse from merced

Trad climber

The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.

Jul 16, 2014 - 05:53pm PT

I dreamed this up.

Remember the old Lowa ski boots with the air bladder and the squeeze bulb?

What's needed is some similar bladder-adjustable Wyde-Bootz that take up the slack as a crack widens. The bladder expands on the outside of the rand, not inside the boot.

There are kinks to work out, and it would be embarrassing to drop your air bulb and get stuck.

But that is opening the door to direct aid and to the dreaded asterisk.

It's a good thing wide cracks are so much fun, with the hair-balling and ego-crushing, etc., is all I gotta say.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Jul 16, 2014 - 06:03pm PT

Climbers here are disadvantaged by the plethora of wide cracks. The paucity of good cracks and the chossy weather in GB force climbers into creatively designing training apparatus that seems to have worked.
They will show you their designs but then they'll have to shoot you.

SteveW

Trad climber

The state of confusion

Jul 16, 2014 - 06:24pm PT

Sic Grug on 'em!!!!

Yeah, the real team, Pam & Grug!!!

thebravecowboy

climber

in the face of the fury of the funk

Jul 16, 2014 - 06:31pm PT

Three words, and I am moving less than an hour away.

Vee. Dau. Woo.

(I am obviously ready to take on the wideboyz, just switch over to bangers and mash, hit the 'Voo, and do some laps on a crack machine. How hard can it be?)

clinker

Trad climber

Santa Cruz, California

Jul 16, 2014 - 06:37pm PT

I agree, an American should up the ante. Then the Wide boyz can come over and work on it and speaking english properly.

looks easy from here

climber

Ben Lomond, CA

Jul 16, 2014 - 07:24pm PT

God bless the lunatics who love offwidth.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Best line ever at 1:14: "I invert off of a flared hand and the side of my head, which is awesome! I always wanted to do that."

WHO THE F*** WANTS TO DO THAT?!

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Jul 16, 2014 - 08:17pm PT

Three words, and I am moving less than an hour away.

Medicine bow?
Centennial?
Laramie is too close... Cheyenne and you drive slow?
Wheat land and you drive fast?

Best line ever at 1:14: "I invert off of a flared hand and the side of my head, which is awesome! I always wanted to do that."
Who the F wants to do that

Aww come on everyone wants to do that!
Er,
Don't knock it till you've tried it!

Kalimon

Social climber

Ridgway, CO

Jul 16, 2014 - 08:33pm PT

Americans are simply lagging behind in the ow medium . . . this is the realm of the working class. Not too many blue collar hardcore dudes that can afford the lifestyle.

Enty

Trad climber

Jul 17, 2014 - 04:20am PT

I guess one of you Yanks could come over and onsight The Indian Face.

That should restore some respect.

E

Lasti

Trad climber

Budapest

Jul 17, 2014 - 05:11am PT

Back in 2008 Jorgeson, Honnold and crew went to the UK and sent big on gritstone. No first ascents IIRC, but a few firsts (e.g. first ground up ascent of an E9 route) and and a few seconds (e.g. second ascent of the Cratcliffe Groove) showed that the 'Mericans can crush on the WideBoyz' home turf.

I think what is difficult to get our head around is the fact that Tom and Pete could climb all these horror OWs without years upon years of climbing OWs of increasing length, difficulty etc. But do not be fooled by the paucity of renowned OW in the UK, they did exactly that on what they could find and in the meantime trained with a focus bordering on insanity.

If others are willing to do the same, are as talented as them and have easy access to good ole' US OWs, I am sure they will WIDEN our perception of what is possible.

Lasti

Big Mike

Trad climber

Jul 17, 2014 - 07:43am PT

I agree, an American should up the ante. Then the Wide boyz can come over and work on it and speaking english properly.

Lol.. You mean they could teach you guys how to speak english properly?? Lol

Jim Clipper

climber

from: forests to tree farms

Jul 17, 2014 - 09:11am PT

from across the pond

[Click to View YouTube Video]

[Click to View YouTube Video]

[Click to View YouTube Video]

cheers ...

Jingy

climber

Somewhere out there

Jul 17, 2014 - 10:06am PT

What are we gonna do about the Wide Boyz (as Americans)

An American would join in the fun with the Wide Boys. Or else just sit back and watch and maybe try to sell you a seat next to them....

I would not be pretentious about it. I would get off my ass and focus on the bigger picture if I wanted to be considered equal to the Wide Boyz.

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Jul 17, 2014 - 10:16am PT

What's wrong with getting your ass kicked by Brits anyway?
(I say your tongue in cheek, because I could give two flying fux about wide sh#t personally.) Stay out of that sh#t or nail around it!!!

They've been tough as nails for a long time, and they're our brothers after all.....

skcreidc

Social climber

SD, CA

Jul 17, 2014 - 10:27am PT

Just adopt them. That way it's all in the family. Of course, have to give their mum's visitation rights...

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2014 - 10:57am PT

What's wrong with getting your ass kicked by Brits anyway?

First of all, Survival, I just got back from Terrapin Station. Second of all, I'm having some regrets as to bringing this whole thing up inasmuch as the Brits must already be feeling pretty downtrodden with their World Cup effort and all. Maybe we should throw them a bone. Just tell them that they're the best wide crack climbers in the world and be done with it.

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Jul 17, 2014 - 11:25am PT

eeyonkee, you gotta tell me next time you're headed to Terrapin Station!

There's nothing worse than missing a trip out there, to the perimeter....

Secondly, I too tip my hat to those guys. They had the motivation, period.
They won't be crawling through my DNA in those awful things, HA!!!

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Jul 17, 2014 - 11:27am PT

maybe eeyonkee is lamenting his efficacy as being a "wide mentor" vis-a-vis the success of his legacy community vs. Stevie Haston... who seemed to have been a bit more successful with his...

dude, get over it... you spawned a country of complacent prancers... just practice your limp wrist hip sway and get a pair of manpris

you might also consider a full body wax job... jus sayin'

chill

climber

between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing

Jul 17, 2014 - 12:05pm PT

the Brits must already be feeling pretty downtrodden with their World Cup effort and all

In the spirit of international relations lets offer to help them with that footy-kicky thing they like so much. Looks like we're getting it figured out.

In return they can help us improve our OW technique.

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Jul 17, 2014 - 12:19pm PT

eeyonkee, vs Stevie.

Its like The Ultimate OW Series!

So it's like a consolation match, for third place, to see who gets to take on the Brits?

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Jul 17, 2014 - 12:23pm PT

doesn't Dingus McGee wrestle?

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2014 - 01:19pm PT

First of all Ed, I'm way past lamenting. So far, that I'm not sure where I am, exactly. Post lamenting, in any case.

So, I just got a haircut and was confiding to my barber that I have the post-world cup blues. I mean, I looked forward to those great games every day it seems for a month. I guess my competitive juices were sensitized or something. Could be that a good night's sleep is all I need. I mean, I like the Beatles, Monte Python, James Bond, and good food and dental hygiene as much as the next guy.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Jul 17, 2014 - 01:22pm PT

I didn't think there was any relevant championship until October

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Jul 17, 2014 - 01:32pm PT

I do t think wrassling is McGee's strongest talent.....

StahlBro

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Jul 17, 2014 - 01:39pm PT

Shake their hands, buy them a few pints and sandbag the hell out of them?

scuffy b

climber

heading slowly NNW

Jul 17, 2014 - 02:16pm PT

...and sandbag the hell out of them?

How do you do that?

ms55401

Trad climber

minneapolis, mn

Jul 17, 2014 - 04:02pm PT

off-widths and such are passe

thin ice is the new wide

bit'er ol' guy

climber

the past

Jul 17, 2014 - 04:05pm PT

it's all gone to 'ell

it's actually embarrassing...the whole tradgoodol days BS vs Sport nubes.

while most of these new school posers couldn't climb out their ownass even w/ supertopos, stickclippers, crashpads, halfsizeoffsetcolorcoded million dollar racks to 10" ( for the "optional wide" 5.6R 2nd pitch) and a team of 8 (jenafra couldn't make it) from their BS Daddy $$$$ SanJose start up.

every holy grail of the our generation from hardgrit to big walls to alpine has

been bettered by people who learned to climb in a gym.

did you see Wide Boyz?....I don't think they'd have much issue w/ owl roof or cream

did you see that Team America Hrdgritsh#t?....

Honnald sharma caldwell ondra steck (not Al) megos woods BLAHBLAHF*#KINGBLAH!!!!!!

what about the british smurf chick.....

I feel old andcreepy watching her......I mean....she is 18 right?

so back to the question "what ARE we going to do?"

WHAT?

I'll tell ya what all us bi'ter ol'guys do.

we talk smack on this forum.

What else is there?

goatboy smellz

climber

लघिमा

Jul 17, 2014 - 04:09pm PT

Jim Clipper

climber

from: forests to tree farms

Jul 17, 2014 - 04:41pm PT

^ nothing common about that sentiment.

cheers again to the motherland

Leggs

Sport climber

Made in California

Jul 17, 2014 - 04:53pm PT

I love that clip of Pamela.. she's a bad ass, and inspirational.

~peace

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Jul 17, 2014 - 06:15pm PT

Indeed!

bergbryce

climber

East Bay, CA

Jul 17, 2014 - 06:20pm PT

what's with the chest thumping? can't we just say hats off and good show mates or something english sounding like that??

thebravecowboy

climber

in the face of the fury of the funk

Jul 17, 2014 - 07:30pm PT

fort collins, ho!

widened perceptions might be a good name for this one, if it is indeed a new deal

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Jul 17, 2014 - 07:42pm PT

That bit's alright then!

clinker

Trad climber

Santa Cruz, California

Jul 18, 2014 - 09:02am PT

what's with the chest thumping? can't we just say hats off and good show mates or something english sounding like that??

They are Brits, they will feel insulted if we fail as Americans to give them royal sh#t for besting us on our turf. Underneath their homely, comic exterior lies a fierce competitive conqueror, with a slightly sore inferiority complex from being beaten so often by Americans.

The English can handle smack talk, likely they created it, and as usual have left it to Americans to perfect it.

Canadians and Aussies can have an even more extreme complex.

goatboy smellz

climber

लघिमा

Jul 21, 2014 - 03:42pm PT

Back to Kate, I think she may prefer finger locks.

Nice crack bravecowboy, that in CNM outside Grand Junkshow?

Phantom X

Trad climber

Honeycomb Hideout

Jul 21, 2014 - 04:32pm PT

^^^^Well well well, it looks as if one princess has her fingers crossed in hopes of a date with Phantom X!

thebravecowboy

climber

in the face of the fury of the funk

Jul 22, 2014 - 07:49pm PT

it is, unfortunately, in Bananaland, goatboy.

goatboy smellz

climber

लघिमा

Jul 23, 2014 - 01:36pm PT

Bananaland or bust!

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Jul 23, 2014 - 06:28pm PT

Banana land or wherever, if any of this bothers you, the only thing you can really do is go climbing. That's what I'm doing, and I don't see myself as being in an adversarial relationship with 'the Brits.' I find them more like, Inspirational, really.

Phantom X

Trad climber

Honeycomb Hideout

Jul 23, 2014 - 06:37pm PT

^^^Yeah. Leave the bloody Brits alone Eee-onk-ee.

goatboy smellz

climber

लघिमा

Jul 23, 2014 - 06:54pm PT

He's really harshing the vibe of us getting with Kate.
Never can trust those Jack Catholics.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Jul 23, 2014 - 06:56pm PT

Yeah, pretty sure Kate has a thing for you, Goat.....

goatboy smellz

climber

लघिमा

Jul 23, 2014 - 06:59pm PT

She loves the dark meat.

Phantom X

Trad climber

Honeycomb Hideout

Jul 23, 2014 - 07:13pm PT

Would you think it improper if I told you I find Margret Thatcher desirable?

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Jul 23, 2014 - 07:36pm PT

Would you think it improper if I told you I find Margret Thatcher desirable?

no... it would meet expectation.

goatboy smellz

climber

लघिमा

Jul 23, 2014 - 07:37pm PT

Would you think it improper if I told you I find Margret Thatcher desirable?

I'd hit it,

with a broom.

Phantom X

Trad climber

Honeycomb Hideout

Jul 23, 2014 - 08:12pm PT

Just checking your pulse.

wbw

Trad climber

'cross the great divide

Jul 23, 2014 - 08:21pm PT

Would you think it improper if I told you I find Margret Thatcher desirable?

Yes, as necrophelia is still considered taboo on this side of the Pond.

Phantom X

Trad climber

Honeycomb Hideout

Jul 23, 2014 - 08:24pm PT

Okay, how about Susan Boyle the wonderful awesome singer? Lets see you find fault that.

goatboy smellz

climber

लघिमा

Jul 23, 2014 - 08:58pm PT

Julie Andrews would mop the floor with Boyle if she ever had to follow that sideshow.

thebravecowboy

climber

hold on tight boys

Oct 14, 2014 - 11:03pm PT

paging Frosty Weller or representative to the White Taco Telephone...

what, good sire, gives it the R?

thebravecowboy

climber

hold on tight boys

Oct 15, 2014 - 05:55pm PT

....crickets.....

fresh pow

Gym climber

Plastic Paradise

Oct 15, 2014 - 07:28pm PT

I was hoping to find the Friday Night Posting While Drunk Thread, but it didn't come up on the first page. It's not Friday anyway, so here it goes! C'mon man! Who is the next Great Wide Hope in the states? Don't' put it off on someone else. Get out there and do it! Those Wide Boyz didn't have any offwidths over there so what did they do? They built one. In a basement. Then trained until they puked. Came over here and sent. Preparation + Training + Discipline = Send.